Same thing happened to me today. I got one of those genuine Honda pcv valve for my 2006 Honda civic from Amazon. I admit l used a 1/2 inch torque wrench and an extension and a converter to tighten it. But it is 33 ft/lb so I thought I can get away with that setup. Plus I remove the cowl plate so I can access the bolt with my socket straight down. It snapped right in there and I swear it was not that much force I applied. I was luck enough to back it out and it didn’t damage the thread in there Thanks for making this video. Good to know I am not alone
@@local1487 welcome to the club! Haha but when you say "genuine" how much was it really? Amazon can be hit or miss too. Only time I do real is through the dealer or the like hondapartsnow site that are OEM and much cheaper.
To remove the pcv valve, the VTEC gasket or to clean the. Throttle body or fuel injectors is very convenient to remove the plastic and metal panels under the wiper blades, take a look of some videos here in RUclips, it might tame a few more minutes but you gonna have plenty of room to do your repairs.
Just changed mine watching your video. Bought a used Civic EX with 155k on it. No washer on old, no washer on new. Mine look identical but my new "genuine honda part" didn't come with a washer so I used oil for my oil plug, perfect size.
I did?? I didn’t see that. Just looked in my own video again to check haha. But being over torqued, it’s always possible but I really didn’t give it much. Suspect.
@@GTSam I don't think you over torqued it. The same happened to me even though I bought a genuine Honda one. When I started torqueing it, I didn't put too much and all of a sudden I felt it getting softer so I stopped immediately. I was lucky to still remove it as a single piece but you could see it was broken. I complained where I bought it and they sent a new one. This time I torqued it by hand to what I knew it was enough and wouldn't break it. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/eRp4bJR_LQw/видео.html
Looks like you over torqued it with that "big boy". Just made the same mistake myself when I changed my alternator and snapped the long bolt with my own "big boy". Learned my lesson also. Luckily I was able to get it out from the threaded end that was sticking out of the side of the alternator
It was weird because when taking it out, it was really torqued down well. Then the "new" part, I feel like I wasn't giving a lot of pressure but then didn't seem right so stopped at a good time. Even putting back in the old part felt better. I'm not one to start going ham on bolts so really threw me off there haha.
Wow, good thing you backed that out, if you left it in there and put another 35K on the car you would have never got that out. Good video, good advice, good filming, thank-you.
I just bought a cheap one off ebay £10 free delivery!🤔 see how it goes... I was a bit tight ass after buying new Rear Adaptive shock absorbers. the oem Pcv was £48 hopefully I not gonna be left a lame duck with my china lucky lucky 10$ import. I read on one the coments here that they are calibrated? I may just clean my old one up and see how it goes... ANY problems since you cleaned your old one and put it back in or is all good?
@@GTSam 8:35 You are one lucky guy that didn't break in there (cant drill that out bcoz shavings will fall in there)... It happened to me when changing ABS sensors - had to drill it out, and once i over tightened the 32mm drive shaft nut and sheared threads off (impact wrench) I got lucky with that one, as the sheared threads were from the nut and not from drive-shaft (lesson learned was dont use impact to tighten stuff fully)... since then I have gotten anther torque wrench (last one was out of whack)
@@MMD-z6z yes, very lucky. Did not like that replacement piece one bit. Impact guns can be great but have to be so careful. Glad it all worked out for you though!
The exact same happened to me even though I bought a genuine Honda one. When I started torqueing it, I didn't put too much and all of a sudden I felt it getting softer so I stopped immediately. I was lucky to still remove it as a single piece but you could see it was broken. I complained where I bought it and they sent a new one. This time I torqued it by hand to what I knew it was enough and wouldn't break it. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/eRp4bJR_LQw/видео.html
@@petejuarezjr can you show me where there was a double washer? I checked a year ago for someone else and just checked again and didn't see I used one. But it does seem to be a slight issue for others too in the comments that some new parts may be defective and break similarly.... Or cheap copycats.
OK, I finally got round to do this PCV valve yesterday... That space is tighter than m!&$£r - I cant get that hose off for the life of me... If I pull it any more I feel am going to break the hose from middle... Ive tried liquids/oils, wrenches, pliers and God knows what... Today am going to try a little heat, and if that doesn't work I will have to cut it low as possible. Wish me luck PS. I was doing the valve gasket and spark plugs and thought would clean the MAP, MAF and PCV sensor/valve whilst at it to see if I can get rid of the P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 code/error
Oh yeah, it's tight! Such an awkward spot. Is your hose dried out or old and won't move much? Might be able to use pliers and twist and pull up on it at the same time. That code disappear?
The same think happend to me on the same engine😂😂 The torque spec seems to be exesivly high, I will tight it with a 1/4 wrench next time without a torque wrench... Doesn't metter if is Genuine Honda original, because I broken the original😂😂. So thight it on feeling not with torque spec of 44 Nm, too much or you will brake it
@@GTSam Yes but mine broken inside the "engine block" the thread of the PCV valve remained inside of the engine thread😂😂. So I totaly destroyed my PCV. Then fortunatly was easy to extract it with an extraction tool. Now I am waiting for the part to arrive😂😂
Same thing happened to me today. I got one of those genuine Honda pcv valve for my 2006 Honda civic from Amazon. I admit l used a 1/2 inch torque wrench and an extension and a converter to tighten it. But it is 33 ft/lb so I thought I can get away with that setup. Plus I remove the cowl plate so I can access the bolt with my socket straight down. It snapped right in there and I swear it was not that much force I applied. I was luck enough to back it out and it didn’t damage the thread in there
Thanks for making this video. Good to know I am not alone
@@local1487 welcome to the club! Haha but when you say "genuine" how much was it really? Amazon can be hit or miss too. Only time I do real is through the dealer or the like hondapartsnow site that are OEM and much cheaper.
To remove the pcv valve, the VTEC gasket or to clean the. Throttle body or fuel injectors is very convenient to remove the plastic and metal panels under the wiper blades, take a look of some videos here in RUclips, it might tame a few more minutes but you gonna have plenty of room to do your repairs.
Any good links...
I like to live risky.
Just changed mine watching your video. Bought a used Civic EX with 155k on it. No washer on old, no washer on new. Mine look identical but my new "genuine honda part" didn't come with a washer so I used oil for my oil plug, perfect size.
Ingenuity, good work! And thanks for watching!
You over torqued it and had two crush washers on which created a weak point on the threads of the pcv valve 👍🏾
I did?? I didn’t see that. Just looked in my own video again to check haha. But being over torqued, it’s always possible but I really didn’t give it much. Suspect.
@@GTSam I don't think you over torqued it. The same happened to me even though I bought a genuine Honda one. When I started torqueing it, I didn't put too much and all of a sudden I felt it getting softer so I stopped immediately. I was lucky to still remove it as a single piece but you could see it was broken. I complained where I bought it and they sent a new one. This time I torqued it by hand to what I knew it was enough and wouldn't break it. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/eRp4bJR_LQw/видео.html
@@gotitdone Glad to see someone had the same experience as me, but not glad. Ya know. At least everyone can be more aware of cheap versions!
At least it was just the valve for you all, my block snapped as the valve didn't show any real issue going in. RIP
Looks like you over torqued it with that "big boy". Just made the same mistake myself when I changed my alternator and snapped the long bolt with my own "big boy". Learned my lesson also. Luckily I was able to get it out from the threaded end that was sticking out of the side of the alternator
It was weird because when taking it out, it was really torqued down well. Then the "new" part, I feel like I wasn't giving a lot of pressure but then didn't seem right so stopped at a good time. Even putting back in the old part felt better. I'm not one to start going ham on bolts so really threw me off there haha.
@@GTSam Yup, I always prefer to use torque wrench over 40lbs, but under that i can guess pretty good
Yes, use a torque wrench!
Also if you shake it, it will rattle if it does not you need to replace it if it does just give it a good cleaning
Yep, some carb cleaner will do.
Wow, good thing you backed that out, if you left it in there and put another 35K on the car you would have never got that out. Good video, good advice, good filming, thank-you.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it and glad I got that out when I did. Phew!
That was good experien for me so I don't use to much strength thank you good video amigo make an other one I liked it thanks
Thanks man! More coming this weekend, I'm hoping!
I just bought a cheap one off ebay £10 free delivery!🤔 see how it goes... I was a bit tight ass after buying new Rear Adaptive shock absorbers. the oem Pcv was £48 hopefully I not gonna be left a lame duck with my china lucky lucky 10$ import. I read on one the coments here that they are calibrated? I may just clean my old one up and see how it goes... ANY problems since you cleaned your old one and put it back in or is all good?
Best of luck to you with that part! But no problems for like 40K miles after that. Cleaning did help but new is always best. Let me know what happens!
You get a hell of a lot more room if you take the windshield guard and the metal piece underneath it off about 2x more space to work with honestly lol
I mean, it was all supposed to be quick and easy but that didn't happen haha.
Question for all: How many mile can a 99 Civic engine last if it’s pretty well taken care of?
Long, long time. Especially if the transmission was maintained well too!
8:34 Thanks for the laugh 😂 (I needed that)
Always here to make people laugh!
@@GTSam 8:35 You are one lucky guy that didn't break in there (cant drill that out bcoz shavings will fall in there)... It happened to me when changing ABS sensors - had to drill it out, and once i over tightened the 32mm drive shaft nut and sheared threads off (impact wrench) I got lucky with that one, as the sheared threads were from the nut and not from drive-shaft (lesson learned was dont use impact to tighten stuff fully)... since then I have gotten anther torque wrench (last one was out of whack)
@@MMD-z6z yes, very lucky. Did not like that replacement piece one bit. Impact guns can be great but have to be so careful. Glad it all worked out for you though!
Its this valve can make a weird sound when you start the engine in the morning? Thanks
No, sorry. I wouldn't really make any sound differences unless something was severely wrong.
Thank for the video!
Good video helpful
The exact same happened to me even though I bought a genuine Honda one. When I started torqueing it, I didn't put too much and all of a sudden I felt it getting softer so I stopped immediately. I was lucky to still remove it as a single piece but you could see it was broken. I complained where I bought it and they sent a new one. This time I torqued it by hand to what I knew it was enough and wouldn't break it. Here is my video: ruclips.net/video/eRp4bJR_LQw/видео.html
Crush washer part number?
Same as oil drain plug
The double washer was the reason it snapped. And of course the extra torque 😅
@@petejuarezjr can you show me where there was a double washer? I checked a year ago for someone else and just checked again and didn't see I used one.
But it does seem to be a slight issue for others too in the comments that some new parts may be defective and break similarly.... Or cheap copycats.
I don’t see a double washer
OK, I finally got round to do this PCV valve yesterday... That space is tighter than m!&$£r - I cant get that hose off for the life of me... If I pull it any more I feel am going to break the hose from middle... Ive tried liquids/oils, wrenches, pliers and God knows what... Today am going to try a little heat, and if that doesn't work I will have to cut it low as possible. Wish me luck
PS. I was doing the valve gasket and spark plugs and thought would clean the MAP, MAF and PCV sensor/valve whilst at it to see if I can get rid of the P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1 code/error
Oh yeah, it's tight! Such an awkward spot. Is your hose dried out or old and won't move much? Might be able to use pliers and twist and pull up on it at the same time.
That code disappear?
You ever figure out how to get the hose off?
The same think happend to me on the same engine😂😂 The torque spec seems to be exesivly high, I will tight it with a 1/4 wrench next time without a torque wrench... Doesn't metter if is Genuine Honda original, because I broken the original😂😂. So thight it on feeling not with torque spec of 44 Nm, too much or you will brake it
Okay, see! I wasn't crazy! Haha glad you survived as well!
@@GTSam Yes but mine broken inside the "engine block" the thread of the PCV valve remained inside of the engine thread😂😂. So I totaly destroyed my PCV. Then fortunatly was easy to extract it with an extraction tool. Now I am waiting for the part to arrive😂😂
Even just a knockoff PCV valve, you should not over torque and if you want a genuine/OE part, have to go to Honda dealership.
Right. It really wasn't over done but I think it was just knock off cheap material compared to the older one.
Somebody pulled a switcharoo on you at the dealership
They got me...
Stealer ship i would say😂
That PCV is not made in America, surely??????. 😦😦
If it was made in America, I'd be a bit sad.
I’ve never seen genuine Honda parts come in a ziplock bag either.
Mad sketch, right?
Wanna make this job 10xs easier remove the cowl and strut brace 5 min job
Little extra prep work goes a long way.
It's like 14 bucks.buy a new one.
Totally. Man... Really wish I could have used that $14 to buy Chipotle....
you overtorqued it
I'd agree but I really didn't push it. I think it was just a different material and weaker than the OEM ones possibly.
What a butcher, always use a factory Pcv parts never ever put in generic garbage Pcv valves are calibrated
Yep, that's how fake ones be. Those fake labels will do that.
made in china boss thats why broken to much soft.
No doubt!
👎🏻🙈🙈🙈👎🏻
20 bucks I just ordered it from Honda 47 bucks
$47 for the part from Honda?
I just got it. $27. Lancaster Pennsylvania here
@@Andriig75 love Lancaster. You get the part for the dealership there?
@@GTSam yep . Jones Honda. My '07 runs perfect, but it has 180k miles, so I figured I'd get it done 👍
@@Andriig75 nice! Jones Acura has worked on my Acura before and gotten me parts are they were always great.
идиотска кола и конструктивно решение