Thanks for the video! I have the very same Silver ‘07 SC. I’ve got 92k on it, and I’ve never replaced it. Haven’t really had any issues because of it, but I’m replacing it… with a OEM one….. just because! Thanks again!
I replaced mine last night, 320,985 miles on it. It was totally plugged (no rattle at all). I have noticed for a while that the hose that connects towards the top near the fuel injector was collapsed so I am sure that didn't help any. Replaced both the PCV valve and the hose hope to see at least some reduction in oil consumption. Did an oil change about a month ago and checked it this past weekend and it was already below the 'low' limit. No stains on ground or blue smoke out the pipe. But have have been getting a P0420 check engine light for probably the last two years (intermittent), Thanks for the video guide.
If I’m not wrong that might be the vtec solenoid , either the whole solenoid or just the screen needs to be replaced. Mines leaking oil too very common for the mileage I got 198k soo
@@gmoney-jn8ljthey also have a tendency to leak right corner of the valve cover (passenger side). The P0420 code is the downstream 02 sensor which is the last sensor screwed into the catalytic converter or nearer the the back. Just replaced mine with same code. I bought a Denso on Amazon
Danny, thanks for making this video it was very helpful. Cautionary tell for those novices like me: I'd be cautious of the 33 lbf-ft torque spec for installing the new PCV valve. My new PCV valve sheared in half before the torque wrench reached 33, probably around 20 or 25. Supposedly the new PCV valve is OEM Honda, same part number posted by Danny (granted I got it on ebay, and it could be a knock-off). I think some other things might be going on too. The receiving threads contained a little oil (I probably should have cleaned those out, but didn't); anyway, that oil would throw-off the torque wrench making it want to work much harder than required. So when the PCV valve sheared, it left most of the thread of the PCV valve stuck in the mounting hole. Fortunately I was able to remove it with a reverse thread 3/8" multi-spline extractor that came in Harbor Freight's ICON 15-piece set. I used a magnet to extract the PCV spring and plunger. At least now I know what the inside of a PCV valve looks like. Very basic, a spring and a plunger. Another fortunate thing was that I had ordered two PCV valves, planning on having a spare - which came in handy earlier than expected. A mechanic friend of mine suggested I wrap a little teflon tape around the PCV valve threads to make sure things are air tight without having to torque so hard the second attempt, which I did. So this second go around, I used an old fashion beam torque wrench, instead of the click type, so I'd know how much torque was being used in real time. I stopped at about 17 ft-lbs this time, and I still suspect the first attempt sheared between 20 to 25. And as mentioned, the threads still had some oil in them on the second attempt too - so actual amount of ft-lbs tightened may be considerably more than just 17 (probably more than double). Any friction reducer will do this, even thread locker. Well that's my story and I'm sticking to it. If it goes sideways - I'll update things. I'm hoping Black Betty (a 2008 Element SC with 245K miles) runs smoother and has less error codes now. Danny, I hope you keep cranking out the Element videos. I love your videos.
Thank you for this! I wouldn't have even thought about replaceing my PCV valve. I might just do that this weekend! I really appreciate the easy to follow/see demonstration.
Danny... Thanks for the video. Didn't even know my Element had a pcv valve. I'm going to try cleaning mine first... I have a long list of parts needed for my 2003 Element and a can of Brake Cleen handy.
Pcv are good until it quits on you with no warning then without noticing you get oil leaks and worse yet oil enters the intake manifold and you get heavy carbon burning and buildup and much worse on Gdi engines as it is very expensive to repair oppose to a genuine Honda Pcv valve as generic valves might not have the correct airflow
I will replace mine on my Honda civic 8th gen, but it will be aftermarket mcv valve so I think I will torque it to 25ft lbs cos I don't want to break or cross thread it. When I did an engine oil change I torqued my sump plug to 25ft lbs and it doesn't leak, so I hope doing the same with the pcv valve will be ok too
Just had my local Honda Dealership replace mine ('07 Element w/140K). It had seized up. I had been thinking about it and asked for the replacement during a regular service. Honda tech said a change every 75K was probably appropriate. I'm thinking it ought to be more like 30K-50K.
Hi Danny. Thanks for all your informative videos. I have an identical silver SC except mine is a stick shift. Just one question: At the beginning of the video you mention that Honda recommends that the valve be checked or replaced every 45000 miles. How do I check the existing valve to find out whether or not it needs to be replaced?
127k? That is one clean engine/compartment. It looks new. Not a spec of oil, dirt or dust. My 07 Honda Element has 185k and the engine looks like it’s been threw two wars, a dust storm, and a hurricane compared to that.
what is the torque spec on honda hrv 2020 i saw on internet and forum says most of them said 32foot lbs now it broke pieces inside how do i get it out?
Danny my 2009 honda civic is getting gas in my oil where do you think i should start spark plugs? Fuel injectors? My engine doesn't smoke so i hope it isnt my piston rings..only code im getting is my civic coolant is running too cool stuck open....so im changing my thermostat and sensor.
Geeze I had to do the knock sensor recently. Thing's a PAIN. Not as bad as the starter, of course. Nothing's as bad as the starter lol. Also in case this helps anyone: Replacing the motor mount that holds the transmission will likely cause the knock sensor to error code for some reason. Apparently this is somewhat common. Another part you wanna make sure to just use the Honda one and not a clone or counterfeit.
@@dannysdiygarage special pliers are not needed just use a regular plier take off the top, and rotate the hose until you see the lower clamp The job is easier then.
I don't think I can replicate what it does when it's in the engine running, however, I did shake and it rattled the PCV on all three that I replaced, I also sucked and blew threw it to see if the valve was plugged or sticking, then I checked it against the new one, there was only a slight difference between the new and old, that being said, "a PCV valve is good until it isn't". I'm pretty happy with my decision to replace this and I should have done it sooner
@@dannysdiygarage I checked my PCV valce on my 2001 Honda Civic after I watched your video. I pinched the hose between PCV and manifold. PCV made a klik sound and idle went very rough after couple of seconds. Car is 177.000km and original PCV valve.
If one were to remove the hose in the manner that this gentleman did, yes, it is necessary to take the cover off. If one were to replace the PCV only, removing the cover is not necessary.
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Thanks for the video! I have the very same Silver ‘07 SC. I’ve got 92k on it, and I’ve never replaced it. Haven’t really had any issues because of it, but I’m replacing it… with a OEM one….. just because! Thanks again!
Glad it helped! Appreciate your comment
Thanks Danny! Knowing how to do it and knowing the tools needed made the job so much easier! YOU ROCK!
Thank David
I replaced mine last night, 320,985 miles on it. It was totally plugged (no rattle at all). I have noticed for a while that the hose that connects towards the top near the fuel injector was collapsed so I am sure that didn't help any. Replaced both the PCV valve and the hose hope to see at least some reduction in oil consumption. Did an oil change about a month ago and checked it this past weekend and it was already below the 'low' limit. No stains on ground or blue smoke out the pipe. But have have been getting a P0420 check engine light for probably the last two years (intermittent), Thanks for the video guide.
Appreciate your support
If I’m not wrong that might be the vtec solenoid , either the whole solenoid or just the screen needs to be replaced. Mines leaking oil too very common for the mileage I got 198k soo
@@gmoney-jn8ljcheck the oil pan too they like to rust to hell
@@gmoney-jn8ljthey also have a tendency to leak right corner of the valve cover (passenger side). The P0420 code is the downstream 02 sensor which is the last sensor screwed into the catalytic converter or nearer the the back. Just replaced mine with same code. I bought a Denso on Amazon
Danny, thanks for making this video it was very helpful.
Cautionary tell for those novices like me: I'd be cautious of the 33 lbf-ft torque spec for installing the new PCV valve. My new PCV valve sheared in half before the torque wrench reached 33, probably around 20 or 25. Supposedly the new PCV valve is OEM Honda, same part number posted by Danny (granted I got it on ebay, and it could be a knock-off). I think some other things might be going on too. The receiving threads contained a little oil (I probably should have cleaned those out, but didn't); anyway, that oil would throw-off the torque wrench making it want to work much harder than required.
So when the PCV valve sheared, it left most of the thread of the PCV valve stuck in the mounting hole. Fortunately I was able to remove it with a reverse thread 3/8" multi-spline extractor that came in Harbor Freight's ICON 15-piece set. I used a magnet to extract the PCV spring and plunger. At least now I know what the inside of a PCV valve looks like. Very basic, a spring and a plunger.
Another fortunate thing was that I had ordered two PCV valves, planning on having a spare - which came in handy earlier than expected. A mechanic friend of mine suggested I wrap a little teflon tape around the PCV valve threads to make sure things are air tight without having to torque so hard the second attempt, which I did. So this second go around, I used an old fashion beam torque wrench, instead of the click type, so I'd know how much torque was being used in real time. I stopped at about 17 ft-lbs this time, and I still suspect the first attempt sheared between 20 to 25. And as mentioned, the threads still had some oil in them on the second attempt too - so actual amount of ft-lbs tightened may be considerably more than just 17 (probably more than double). Any friction reducer will do this, even thread locker.
Well that's my story and I'm sticking to it. If it goes sideways - I'll update things. I'm hoping Black Betty (a 2008 Element SC with 245K miles) runs smoother and has less error codes now.
Danny, I hope you keep cranking out the Element videos. I love your videos.
That's like a $200 plus dealership repair..awesome..thanks for sharing
Appreciate your comment, thanks for watching
My new favorite channel for repair & maintenance on my Element. 😎👍
Thanks for checking out my channel!
Another excellent maintenance tip Danny. I definitely need to change mine. I hv a 2005. Thx u. 🙏🏽👍🏾
Appreciate your comment
Super clear and easy to follow! Thanks.
Glad it helped!, thank you for that
Thank you for this! I wouldn't have even thought about replaceing my PCV valve. I might just do that this weekend! I really appreciate the easy to follow/see demonstration.
Appreciate it
Danny... Thanks for the video. Didn't even know my Element had a pcv valve. I'm going to try cleaning mine first... I have a long list of parts needed for my 2003 Element and a can of Brake Cleen handy.
Appreciate that, good luck
Pcv are good until it quits on you with no warning then without noticing you get oil leaks and worse yet oil enters the intake manifold and you get heavy carbon burning and buildup and much worse on Gdi engines as it is very expensive to repair oppose to a genuine Honda Pcv valve as generic valves might not have the correct airflow
I just replaced mine in my 2006 civic for the first time at 300,000 miles.
Thanks for the great wall thru!!! It was great, to the point, calm and well articulated.much appreciated
Appreciate your support 👍🏼
Whoa ! 😯 That’s a really clean engine 🧼🛁
California car
I will replace mine on my Honda civic 8th gen, but it will be aftermarket mcv valve so I think I will torque it to 25ft lbs cos I don't want to break or cross thread it. When I did an engine oil change I torqued my sump plug to 25ft lbs and it doesn't leak, so I hope doing the same with the pcv valve will be ok too
Just had my local Honda Dealership replace mine ('07 Element w/140K). It had seized up. I had been thinking about it and asked for the replacement during a regular service. Honda tech said a change every 75K was probably appropriate. I'm thinking it ought to be more like 30K-50K.
Link to the Civic video: ruclips.net/video/glltxejn10k/видео.html
thanks for the help
Great video, very helpful. Thank you!
You’re welcome, appreciate your comment
On the newer L15 turbo engines I recommend checking or replacing every 30k.
Thanks for adding
Thank you !
You’re welcome 👍🏼
Why take the top hose off ?
Great question, you want to make sure the hose is clear, not plugged and it makes it easier to pull off because you can get the clamp easier.
Hi Danny. Thanks for all your informative videos. I have an identical silver SC except mine is a stick shift. Just one question: At the beginning of the video you mention that Honda recommends that the valve be checked or replaced every 45000 miles. How do I check the existing valve to find out whether or not it needs to be replaced?
they recommend you remove it and check it" shake it to see if it Rattles". So basically, remove it, and replace it.
@@dannysdiygarage Thank you! I'll give it a try. Appreciate all your work
Thank you Danny!
You’re welcome
Thanks.
You're welcome
Amigo! Tanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!🍺
Mine didn't come with a washer but I have a few of the honda metal washers I use for oil and trans changes. will those washers work?
Yes or reuse the old one, it will be fine
127k? That is one clean engine/compartment.
It looks new. Not a spec of oil, dirt or dust. My 07 Honda Element has 185k and the engine looks like it’s been threw two wars, a dust storm, and a hurricane compared to that.
what is the torque spec on honda hrv 2020 i saw on internet and forum says most of them said 32foot lbs now it broke pieces inside how do i get it out?
Muy buen video gracias
Gracias a ti
Danny my 2009 honda civic is getting gas in my oil where do you think i should start spark plugs? Fuel injectors? My engine doesn't smoke so i hope it isnt my piston rings..only code im getting is my civic coolant is running too cool stuck open....so im changing my thermostat and sensor.
Yep, piston rings, fuel injectors
You should do video on knock sensor
Great idea
Geeze I had to do the knock sensor recently. Thing's a PAIN. Not as bad as the starter, of course. Nothing's as bad as the starter lol.
Also in case this helps anyone: Replacing the motor mount that holds the transmission will likely cause the knock sensor to error code for some reason. Apparently this is somewhat common. Another part you wanna make sure to just use the Honda one and not a clone or counterfeit.
Did you shake the old one, did it still make noise?
Yes, my old one was working, more of a peace of mind thing, catch it before it goes bad, preventive maintenance
@Bruce Wayne I did not have any symptoms, I wanted to do this before any issues arrived.
@BruceWayne-sz3th change every 50k
Hi Danny, thank you for the video. I cannot find any pliers like yours locally or online, could you please show me where to find them? Thanks.
Which are you referring to, these are from snap on tools , however I’ve seen similar at harbor freight
@@dannysdiygarage special
pliers are not needed just use a regular plier take off the top, and rotate the hose until you see the lower clamp The job is easier then.
Well done
Appreciated, thanks
I have the same 07 sc with 170k. Ill replace mine. Do you have a shop? Where in California are you?
I’m in so cal, I have no shop, Im just here to help you save $$
@@dannysdiygarage I'm in so Cal too was thinking of taking my car to you and check it out for any maintenance
I wish you checked the old one, if it still works.
I don't think I can replicate what it does when it's in the engine running, however, I did shake and it rattled the PCV on all three that I replaced, I also sucked and blew threw it to see if the valve was plugged or sticking, then I checked it against the new one, there was only a slight difference between the new and old, that being said, "a PCV valve is good until it isn't". I'm pretty happy with my decision to replace this and I should have done it sooner
@@dannysdiygarage I checked my PCV valce on my 2001 Honda Civic after I watched your video. I pinched the hose between PCV and manifold. PCV made a klik sound and idle went very rough after couple of seconds. Car is 177.000km and original PCV valve.
15 minutes job. the original still rattled. i did not have any symptoms. I decide at 280000 miles why not
👍
appreciate that
How much was the part from Honda ?
Shop around, I called thee Honda dealers $62.00 $42.00 and $34.00 at the last dealer I called, they were all the same part
@@dannysdiygarage I paid about $30 for one. I also found that Honda dealers might be willing to go lower on prices if you find it cheaper elsewhere.
You bought it from Amazon? I'm sure its a counterfeit part.
This is supposed to be an Honda OEM part, if it’s not please let me know, this seller assured me it’s OEM, please update
@@dannysdiygarage Google Amazon and Honda counterfeit parts. Only way to be sure its genuine is to buy the part directly from a Honda dealership.
2 nuts.. lol
No need to take off cover
If one were to remove the hose in the manner that this gentleman did, yes, it is necessary to take the cover off. If one were to replace the PCV only, removing the cover is not necessary.
Change it haven’t notice nothing in mpg 😂
Probably not gonna notice much in the mpg department, we’re paying over $6:00 a gallon here in California, how about you