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@@ryguyryan10 did you hold it for long enough?

@@GTSam I held it until it started blinking

😬

@@bobbg9041 in theory, yes, that would be amazing but that means getting the internal one is removing the whole side of the cover. At least getting the top one and fresh fluid is a game changing great start.

For real but good thing this isn't my personal TL. This is just the one I bought and fixed up. Can't stand salt on the undersides of my cars!

Haha! It ain't for the faint of heart!

@@GTSam I got it out! Looks like the trick may be to heat the back of the bolt carrier, in the block. Heating the face of the bolt is pointless as there are no threads underneath the head. If you gently heat where the bolt runs behind the water pump with a propane torch, you should eventually break the galvanic bond/corrosion between the iron bolt and the aluminum engine block. I quite literally heard the threads let out that distinctive "ping" several times as the heat transferred through the block and bolt. Penetrating oil didn't seem to make a difference because there's no real threads for it it creep along: and I use Kroil, which is wild good stuff. Clients car purrs like a car now, AC nice and strong, etc, etc.

@@H33t3Speaks nice work! That corrosion can be a real bugger. Heat usually is a good idea too. I've added Free All to my stock pile lately and it seems to be a better bolt buster too.

For sure! Mainly, the transmission mounts. Got a video for that too!

@@GTSam ok thanks dtb I will try to change them

GTSAM waits for no semi-truck backing up!

I think so. Between that and the engine mounts. They can hit hard if they are shot.

That's what they usually say to me when someone needs help. What's up?

It is a cat back exhaust system, is what it should be called on eBay. Should fit your year and model.

Ah, yes always nice BUT c-clamp didn't work on these since they are only twist. The front ones you can use the c-clamp though.

Pry bar could work too! Got a grip and long front to get into those groves.

Agreed BUT only for ones that you squeeze to compress. The front ones I do that but these rears are twist.

Oooo, those are thin and not as big of a handle. Could work though. In the related video, I used bigger pliers and they work but little flimsy.

Open fluid box yous c clamp

It's a good thought!

4 Cylinder...unfortunately.

Thanks man. She's hanging in there.

This one was no issues. I do believe if they say "coupe", it should work since it's the same frame and engine but I'd always double check.

I think so! Do your headlights look worse than mine?

@@GTSam About the same.

@@jp_parrish let me know how it works!

Seems to be working well so far!

I bought the whole kit off ebay. There should be a link to it in the description. Is it still working?

Dat wheel hub doe... Haha, but for real, it was bad. Secret is I did take that off and clean it up and re pack it with grease.

Holy metal buildup, Batman! For sure! Secret is that bearing I cleaned up and re-greased as well.

Thank you so much! I am glad you took notice because I am trying to make them more engaging and fun for you and all as much fun as I have making them.

Not gloating, just appreciative :)

Oh, for sure! Ain’t no one got time to watch that for even an hour.

It's gonna test my smarts.

It’s an interesting thought but I don’t think so. This was the easiest and most direct route really.

Best of luck to you with that part! But no problems for like 40K miles after that. Cleaning did help but new is always best. Let me know what happens!

Love it! Of course, you did it right and my Jaguar was too far gone.

Need to tearit down and fix themechanical. P problem

Sure can't fix this. Don't think it even quiet it down at all. Super bummer! Previous owners should have done it from the beginning.

Oh yeah, I seen those before. They are awesome but I thought I didn't need something so high tech but after trying mine, I saw the appeal. I do like mine but something I'll think about more in the future.

Really? Doesn't get stuck on the sides of the piston?

There’s literally no space between the piston and the sleeves

@@03kwam65 for sure. I did turn the engine by hand and have plenty of room now.

Stay tuned! Tried a ton of homemade methods.

Pull all the spark plugs and turn the motor over it’ll blow it all out

@@Drewdayz2419 won't get stuck on the sides?

I commented on your other post but it isn't too bad of a job for a TL either. Similar engine designs. If it's front and back leak, probably valve covers. Side, something else.

Don't worry, I got you covered! ruclips.net/video/30jk7gmxt-4/видео.html Also, did you mean "overheating"?

Ooooo, interesting! Diesel engines usually hold up well. But what ya worried about?

Savage, bro! 🤣 They're actually x-ray vision for inside engines only. Surprisingly, nothing else. But since we're talking numbers, left is -8 and right is -7.50. Find someone to top that.

@@GTSam I've been wearing mine since I was 2 years old. They magnify right? I mean you could focus the sun on paper and burn things correct? Those gotta be +'s not -'s right?

@@guntherultraboltnovacrunch5248 hey, me too! Right, so they magnify. A lot. My eyes are bad. No one can match haha.

Then I would argue your glasses are + not - minus :) @@GTSam

@@guntherultraboltnovacrunch5248 wait, yes that's right. My lenses/contacts are + and vision is - ha. See, can barely see my contact box to tell me lol.

That's amazing! Love it! What car was it??

@@GTSam it was a 1991 Mazda Protege….this happened in around 2009 or so, so the car had well over 100,000 miles on its little 4 cyl. Engine. I put Duralube in everything including lawn mower and snowblower.

@@hertzair1186 that's great. Think the Mazda engines were more durable too then vs now?

Hey, if you wanted to buy a Acura/Honda OEM Filter and you got one from Amazon, that should be good. Amazon USUALLY has legitimate parts.

Hey, thanks for that detailed info! I was hoping this engine was more similar to the J32 in my TL but don't think so. Right now, the MDX has a belt that was still attached but maybe just one part broke and hit the hose? Really, oil pump? Crazy. Was that on 4th gen TLs as well?

@@GTSam You are correct that the j32 and j37 and similar yet different. Same j series of engine but of course different displacement, with similar performance oriented engineering. The j32 was much more powerful than the j30 of the time, had vtec engage at lower rpms, and the j37 is the most powerful NA v6 Honda has made. When you showed your old belt it showed it was torn up - I bet it was partially broken was flinging the edges/flaps tearing/removing the power steering pump hose. And yes, with the oil pump there is a gasket above the crankshaft seal that is behind the pump housing itself that goes onto the block that gets hard, brittle and flat. I’d replace the oil filter base gasket, crank-seal, oil pickup tube o-ring, the oil pump gasket, and 2 tubes of Honda-bond for resealing the pump outer edges and the oil pan. I’d also recommend an aisin timing belt kit as Honda uses them as oem but rebrands it as Honda ($200 versus $5-700 for “oem” at Honda/acura).

@@Tony-375 good insight, thanks! Love the Aisin timing stuff. Used it in my TL as well already in the past.

How hard is it to replace bad valve cover that is leaking/ causing smoke when hot?and how much about?

@@tylermiller214 what make and model

Oof, no fun. These do really well for me, I'd say. If you EQ your phone and/or have a manual bass and treble control on a Bluetooth device for your system and crank it, it sounds good.

My exhaust is great but the rest of the car is rusting! 😅 Already had the quarter panel repaired but slowly more is rusting out.

Ahh sorry to hear that but glad you’re able to make some repairs, my Civic is waaay too far gone with the rust. I still appreciate the info on the exhaust. I think I will give it a go. Nice work in the video, btw👍

@@hartfordlabs7754 You and I have joined the Civic Rust Unanimous Club lol. But thanks for watching and enjoying! Let me know how your exhaust work goes!

Hey man, I went the responsible dad route and bought a Walker (PN 48344) Intermediate pipe w/ resonator that's actually a one piece design like Honda OEM, (unlike the last aftermarket 2-piece I had fail on me). It was surpassingly only $124.21 with hardware/ donut ordering online from the local Advance/ Carquest.. Not as fun as the race car exhaust but I was able to get the project wrapped up next day before a road trip and it should help me sell the Rusty Civic soon with it sounding nice and factory again.. I was lucky my OEM- style muffler that came with the last set I bought is stainless and holding up alright. I also replaced the front pipe (under the engine) a few months ago. I'd still 100% consider the eBay racing exhaust if I get another 8th Gen Civic, especially a manual. Keep up the cool content, brother! @@GTSam​

@@hartfordlabs7754 Hey, respectable move on the OEM style! Hope to hear some upgrade on a different Civic someday soon with an exhaust! Thanks for watching too!

Then we have much to discuss...lol

Weirdly, no. Hot but not overheat. So, think about it like the hot air is restricted and can't go anywhere so it's getting backed up into the engine and making it hotter.