Turning a Spalted Beech Lamp - Part 1

In this video I begin working on turning a lamp from Spalted Beech.
I demonstrate using Record Power's Long Hole Boring Kit to bore the centre hole for the power cable before proceeding to turn the spindle. Once the spindle is turned and sanded to 800 grit I apply sanding sealer and friction polish to a gloss finish.
Finally I explain the type of bulb holder fittings I use and how to prepare the spindle for mounting the bulb holder on.
In part 2 of this project I'll turn the base, assemble the two parts and fit the electrical cable and components to complete the lamp.
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Please leave your thoughts in the comments
Link to Record Power's Lathe accessories:
www.recordpower...

[@kobiekaasjager4822]

Nathan it is so awesome to see you work again. This is going to be spectacular as usual. Hope we see more new things from you.

[@sylvia6779]

Nathan, you have an amazing talent, i love to see wood turning. Xx

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

sylvia stobbart thank you Sylvia.

[@kobiekaasjager4822]

Awesome awesome awesome awesome!!!!!!!

[@glivsh3]

👍 I like it very much!

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

Gennadiy Livshitz thank you very much

[@michaelglackin2420]

Hello how long do you let the sanding sealer dry for thanks Michael

[@AllenORourke1954]

Very nice matey..👍👍

[@icespeckledhens]

Its looks a lovely lamp.
I bought some spalted beech and I found it soft in places and difficult to get a good finish without a lot of sanding but it looked good when finished.
The record long hole boring kit looks very useful.
What oil did you use for the wet sanding?
thanks
James

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

icespeckledhens spalted Beech can be a hit or a miss sometimes. It does finish well though.
I use finishing oil from B&Q, a mixture of tung oil and resins that harden and strengthen the wood. Excellent for wet sanding before finishing as the mix of oil and sanding dust fills any open grain or cracks like a filler would but with a guaranteed colour match. Thanks for watching and for your comment.

[@icespeckledhens]

Nathan Cumming thanks

[@alfkey4155]

On the rotten [punky] areas I use wood hardener [dose what it says on the tin ] before turning,,. Regards Alf

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

thanks for the pointer, I'll give that a try

[@alfkey4155]

Just had Christmas dinner,, Have a good New Year,,. Regards Alf

[@mikehoughton204]

Very nice! I've got one of those boring kits. How did you fit the bar to your handle? I ask as the end of the bar is a flat diamond shape and I can't see how that will fit into a handle that has a round hole :) Thanks.

[@oddkid379]

Mike, you can put any shape in a round hole, as long as the hole is larger than what is being put in it.
I have seen some people take a grinder to the edges of a bar to round them off a bit so that they fit smother. Some even put groves going across the bar to give it more hold and make it less likely to slip from the epoxy they used to hold the bar in the handle
After you have the bar readied, put a bit of 2 part epoxy in the hole, then put the bar in and you should be set

[@davidkleinman4920]

Can I get a link to the lamp kit you used?

[@bradscarrott3870]

Hi Nathan, how long should one leave between finishing oil and applying the sanding sealer ?

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

Hi Brad, I typically only leave about 10mins max before continuing the finishing process. That's usually enough time for the oil to have soaked in.

[@mrmashta1877]

That is freaking (had to use the F word) awesome.

[@danielparker1808]

Can you tell me where you bought your boring kit thanks.

[@billy19461]

Captain Eddies music.

[@just_budha212]

Hi did you make the base video?

[@user-si4ht3he9q]

Where did you buy the sharpener?

[@NathanCummingWoodturning]

The Robert Sorby ProEdge I purchased from Yandles in the UK