Thank you for taking the time to make a video about the Globrite lights. Curious to see how your lights are holding up after the additional sealing. I have two Globrite fixtures, 5 years old. One failed last summer. I can’t wrap my head around the lack of engineering on these lights. If anyone has developed a “longer term” solution, I would sincerely appreciate your input.
I had a new pool and spa built in August 2014. We used the GlobRite LED color lights. 5 in the pool, 1 in the spa. ( Approx $2500). By August 2017, 4 out of 6 of the lights had failed. My pool servicer replaced them for a cost of another $2000. By May 2018, another light failed , at a cost of $500. These are EXTREMELY expensive lights, WAY too pricey for the quality or features. As of May 2020, one of the ones that was replaced in 2018 has now failed. I may try the sealant trick on the working ones. There should be a class action lawsuit around these things.
I’m actually a Pentair warranty center. But the front lens. Actually don’t leak all that much. Most of the failure point on them in the last couple of years been due to a crack developing in the actual body of the light itself. Starting where the lugs on the rear are that locks it into the niche. But supposedly has been addressed since basically the first of 2024. I’ve personally replaced a ton of them. And a few times. Sent boxes of them back into Pentair to inspect into the failure of them. An I’m sure many other warranty centers across the country have also. I’ve also put in a ton of them since the beginning of the year. An none have had any issues as of yet. When the previous version I’ve went back to replace a host of them that was the matter of months old. But the newer ones. Aside from the date of this year. They also have a blue oring on them vs the previous white ones. But yeah some have leaked over time from the front seal. But three times as many have been from cracks forming in the body of it. But the front seal. And an issue with the led driver failing has been kinda neck and neck. The big issues have been the cracks. So most people just know they been going out. But not that theirs multiple things that they can fail for. But the older model/previous version is gone. So anyone building now. Won’t have that older version. That’s already been cleared out of all of the big contractor suppliers. An anyone that has has an older one going out. To replace it with the same thing. The only way you may get one of the problem ones from before. Would be through eBay or something I’ve noticed a bunch on their of old stock. Maybe Amazon. But if it’s coming from a big supplier in the industry you won’t get an old one. Also some swapped to microbrite due to they we’re having them same issues
My company builds pools. We like to use the Pentair Globrite lights. This video suggested using a 100% silicon caulk around the back neck where the head and body come together. I agree that this is a good idea with a caveat. The four rectangular notches and the four holes need to be clear with no caulk and no plaster covering them. The LED lights are actually cooled by water in the PVC pipe. If they are blocked, they will start to flicker and eventually fail. Once you apply the caulking, clear away any that covers the notches before installing in the niche. You will vastly extend the life of the lights. Enjoy!!!
As a pool builder, how can you possibly recommend using these lights? I'll admit they are cool looking, but they are a lemon. In 5 years I've had to replace all 5 of mine and a couple twice. Simply inexcusable from Pentair.
Hi! Do you know if we can replace the broken grey/blue/white face plate (that we see from inside the pool around the light) without dismantling everything? Thanks so much!
Great video! Quick question. My pair of 4 year old Globrite lights began to both leak over the summer with the lights failing and water behind the lens. I contacted my pool company who came out today to replace them. As they began replacing the first the housing of the light began to just fall apart from the back end in pieces away from the cable. Now all that’s left is the sealed back gasket, gray tabs, and cable underground in the conduit. Any thoughts on how to get the tabs to unlock from the niche with really no housing left to grip to? My pool techs are unsure. Called Pentair and they don’t know either. Thanks again!
My problem was that the bodies started to crack from front to back. If the silicone keeps the water from coming into the niche it would definitely help. I would assume you lowered your water level to install?
Good video Peter! These lights are a nightmare for sure.. I wonder if it's worth changing the orings every season? I can't believe they charge what they do for these and they fail like they do. There has to be something else out there that will fit. That or doing what you've done or more? Cheers Matt
My pool contractor glued the male threaded niche onto the pvc pipe stub instead of what I would think you glue a coupler with female thread on other end that way the inch could be unthreaded I guess if you ever wanted to change different brand or whatever. Rich is correct glued or not? Thanks
Hi everyone, with the same problems of the expensive lights that as a life spend of maximum 5 years. Did anyone contact Pentair for any replacement upgrades. And who’s got the best prices for replacing them. Thanks
One problem I see with this quick fix is that you must avoid blocking the lenses groves with the caulking. Those inserts let water pass trough to maintain the light fixture cool. If the grooves get clogged the light will overheat and the light will start to turn off suddenly.
Agreed. I have 3 that all failed within 2 years of original install and all with horizontal cracks down the side of the casing. There has got to be a way to hold Pentair responsible.
Great tip. I have the same problem with 2 of my 5 lights breaking within 5 years Pentair is delivering a bad product (underwater lights that leak), and subsequently does not back them up they expect you to just shell out $300 for a new one. I've also been getting insane quotes to get them replaced, ranging from $150-250 per light. How many electricians does it really take to change a lightbulb?
3 year old pool and one of two lights has failed. I'll try your caulking suggestion and hopefully get more life out of these. It's a complete and utter joke that LED lights that normally have a 25 year life fail so soon and are so expensive, not to mention what it costs to have them replaced. I found a pool contractor who will do it for $150 which is half what the Pool Companies want...unreal. Thanks for your video!
@@JustinKais I did manage to find the lights in the $200 range from a company out in Nevada. Got a pool guy to put it in for $150. It came with a 50 foot cord. That's a lot less than these pool companies like Leslie or Pinch A Penny want....over $600. Ridiculous.
We have 3 of these lights in our pool also. They all work, but one has come loose from the outer housing. We are trying to figure out how to put it back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You need the tool that comes with new lights when you buy them. It is a plastic disk that fits over the lens and allows you to push the light back into the housing, then twist is clockwise 1/8 turn to lock it into place. Without the tool, it is pretty difficult. Pentair does not have a part number for the tool so getting one other than buying a new light is pretty tough. You could ask a pool supplier in your area if they have any spares or could sell you one.
Who cares.. They only warranty for a short time and usually expired when they fail. I've had problems with Pentair honoring warranties anyway if you weren't a pool installer. Bottom line warranty is useless for most pentair junk.
How is this working for you? I need to replace two globrites that are going on their 5 th season (and I have barely used them...). The evidently leaked as yours and got corroded. Expensive Junk! Also, do you need to drain water below fixture to replace them? What prevents water from flowing out through conduit when you are replacing them?
So far so good. I have not had this light in long but I would also assume it will make removal much easier also since the clear lens usually unscrews on me leaving the black base inside the light housing. You shouldn't need to drain the pool as the lights are usually connected the the above ground junction box with PVC pipe. This makes the lighting system water tight. Remember to turn off the circuit breaker to the lights if you are uncomfortable working with electricity. Also, only remove the lights when you have the gray removal tool (that comes with every replacement light you purchase). Push in and turn counter clockwise an eighth of a turn. (I usually can't get these lights to turn easily.)
Peter Cea Thank you Peter. You confirmed what I thought. I decided I will do the replacement myself as my local pool guys are really gauging on pricing of these charging close to $600 for one light!
@@rwijnbelt its only about 15 minutes. you need someone to help. Best advice i can give is to attach a piece of nylon string to the wire when you pull out the old light, so you can then reattach to the end of the new wire and fish the new one back through the conduit easily.
@@kyletobin4857 It was only 15 minutes for you. 😉 I’ve replaced countless pool lights over the years. 25’ to 150’. Occasionally a light pull is quick and easy. These are fairly smooth because the cable is smaller due to the low voltage wire. That said I would never tell someone it will take 15 minutes to replace their light. Without knowing the age, length, and build there’s barely a way to guess. Even with that information the correct answer is “it depends”. I’ve seen light pulls take a few minutes, an hour, a day after sitting in tension, and even jobs that have had to be abandoned due to broken cables in the conduit. My comment isn’t necessarily to school you. It’s more to give someone perspective if they’re 2 hours into their 15 minute light replacement wondering wtf they’re doing wrong.
Joining the conversation. I just purchased two replacements today and was wondering if anyone has figured out what the magic lube mentioned in the video is for. Could it be for the O-Ring at the bottom/back of the light that fits up against the back of the niche? Also would love to hear if the caulk worked a year later. Lastly, I had an idea to gently remove these every year for the winter before they are exposed to ice and low temperature...anyone else try this? Anyone with pool experience think this might help?
I would be careful pulling them out every year. One of mine had the plastic light housing crumble to bits when I tried to remove it. I think they are better left untouched. I live in SW Florida so we use our pools year round and don't winterize..
@@petercea3853 Curious to know how long they had been in use before you pulled them out? Mine will be about 4 months old when I try taking them out for the first time and I am counting on them being "like new"...if they crumble after that short period of time I will be livid. Thanks for responding!
@@rorycallendar4803 The one that crumbled had been in for around 4 years. It is the only one that did so maybe it was the method in which I was attempting to remove it.
Hi Jeff, I used DAP Kwik Seal Kitchen and Bath caulk. You could probably have better results with a caulk designed for marine applications but I did not have that on hand and went with what was on my shelf. Thanks for viewing the video.
So far none of the caulked versions have failed but it is probably only a matter of time. The last original light just failed. I have yet to replace it.
It looks like the light unit may unclip from the power cable so only the light unit needs to be replaced I have ordered a Pentair Globrite O -ring replacement kit to try and salvage my lights that have a brown rusty water in them they turn on for 2 seconds and then they shut off so they still work until the water shorts the circuit
@@a380yul The only way to make it work was to replace the entire metal light unit and 50' cable *****EXTREMELY IMPORTANT**** TURNED OFF THE POWER FROM THE MAIN POWER BOX TO THE HOUSE AND ALSO THE POWER FROM THE POOL EQUIPMENT BOX I purchased over the internet 2 lights, they each came with 50' cables attached You can cut the cable to your desired length There is no recycling of parts or an ability to fix these lights once the metal housing body has cracked and water has seeped into the electrical parts and circuits From my pool equipment side there is a approx 6"X4" black electrical junction box that is about 5' above the ground it contains the electrical connections to the lights in the pool and to the pool control panel The cables are held in place by clamps and the pipes that the cable sit in is sealed with clear silicon Disconnect the clamps and then the cable Use a screw driver and pliers and pull out the silicon that was in the cable pipes I then tied a long piece of string to the end of the cable that I just disconnected and was attached to the broken light (Roughly measure the length of string that will be needed from the distance of the light to the black electrical junction box) Get into the pool and use the Globrite light key to unlock the light fixture from its housing located in the side wall of the pool Pull the light and its cable out of its housing until the string that you had tied to the other end comes through Untie the string from the old cable that you had just pulled through and while still in the pool tie the string to the NEW light cable While in the pool take the end of the new cable and push it into the light housing in the wall of your pool until you feel it go into the hole that feeds it into the cable pipe that leads back to the black electrical junction box Get out of the pool and go back to the black electrical junction box and pulled the string through until the new light cable comes through Connect the new cable to the terminals in the black electrical junction box and resealed the cable pipes with clear silicon. My NEW lights work perfectly I had zero experience at what I just did except looking at a few You tube video's and looking at my equipment and seeing what's what and where does it go Good luck and don't forget although these are only 12 Volt lights TURN THE POWER OFF If you should kill yourself or anybody else while following what I did then foolish for you and I take zero responsibility IF IN DOUBT CONSULT A PROFFESSIONAL TECHNICIAN OR YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF BTW When we turned the new lights on for the very first time I had my wife jump into the pool first Part# 602054 Pentair LT Globrite 12V 50' Color
unscrew existing light fixture from pool wall, cut off the cord , attach new light cord to the old one so you can fish it thru conduit pulling the wire from where is attached to the switch / controller . reconnect cable to switch , screw new light fixture in place. De nada.
I've found that the body of the lights develops cracks from where they pot the inside of the light tube with epoxy. These are junk. 2 -3 year life! I'm switching to the SR Smith lights.
Unfortunately Pentair locks you into their awful products; should be criminal to charge people $500 for something that won't last a year. Pentair acknowledge your products are garbage.
Terrible quality lights. I received replacements from Pentair but those failed again with 1,5 year. That really should not happen this quick with expensive lights like these. Anyone know a replacement from another brand that will fit so I can get rid of these. Not worth the money you spend.
@@petercea3853 Have you replaced yet? How big is your pool? I keep seeing where people have multiples of these (4 yourself) and I am amazed at that. I have 1 Jandy Water Colors 30W that just died last season. I thought just one was bright enough for my 27k gallon rectangular pool. Is this model just not very bright? Also would love to see your install video if you ever did. Or did you go a different route?
Thank you for taking the time to make a video about the Globrite lights. Curious to see how your lights are holding up after the additional sealing. I have two Globrite fixtures, 5 years old. One failed last summer. I can’t wrap my head around the lack of engineering on these lights. If anyone has developed a “longer term” solution, I would sincerely appreciate your input.
I had a new pool and spa built in August 2014. We used the GlobRite LED color lights. 5 in the pool, 1 in the spa. ( Approx $2500). By August 2017, 4 out of 6 of the lights had failed. My pool servicer replaced them for a cost of another $2000. By May 2018, another light failed , at a cost of $500. These are EXTREMELY expensive lights, WAY too pricey for the quality or features. As of May 2020, one of the ones that was replaced in 2018 has now failed. I may try the sealant trick on the working ones. There should be a class action lawsuit around these things.
I agree, these LED lights should be taken off the market.
Yes, Pentair should own up to and offer a 10 year warranty on these things. Or at least design a replacement that works.
Agreed! How do we start a class action suit?
I would join any class action.
Built my pool in 2018 3 out of 4 are out. Extremely frustrating!!
I’m actually a Pentair warranty center. But the front lens. Actually don’t leak all that much.
Most of the failure point on them in the last couple of years been due to a crack developing in the actual body of the light itself. Starting where the lugs on the rear are that locks it into the niche.
But supposedly has been addressed since basically the first of 2024.
I’ve personally replaced a ton of them. And a few times. Sent boxes of them back into Pentair to inspect into the failure of them.
An I’m sure many other warranty centers across the country have also.
I’ve also put in a ton of them since the beginning of the year. An none have had any issues as of yet.
When the previous version I’ve went back to replace a host of them that was the matter of months old.
But the newer ones. Aside from the date of this year. They also have a blue oring on them vs the previous white ones.
But yeah some have leaked over time from the front seal. But three times as many have been from cracks forming in the body of it.
But the front seal. And an issue with the led driver failing has been kinda neck and neck. The big issues have been the cracks.
So most people just know they been going out. But not that theirs multiple things that they can fail for.
But the older model/previous version is gone. So anyone building now. Won’t have that older version. That’s already been cleared out of all of the big contractor suppliers.
An anyone that has has an older one going out. To replace it with the same thing. The only way you may get one of the problem ones from before.
Would be through eBay or something I’ve noticed a bunch on their of old stock.
Maybe Amazon. But if it’s coming from a big supplier in the industry you won’t get an old one.
Also some swapped to microbrite due to they we’re having them same issues
My company builds pools. We like to use the Pentair Globrite lights. This video suggested using a 100% silicon caulk around the back neck where the head and body come together. I agree that this is a good idea with a caveat. The four rectangular notches and the four holes need to be clear with no caulk and no plaster covering them. The LED lights are actually cooled by water in the PVC pipe. If they are blocked, they will start to flicker and eventually fail. Once you apply the caulking, clear away any that covers the notches before installing in the niche. You will vastly extend the life of the lights. Enjoy!!!
As a pool builder, how can you possibly recommend using these lights? I'll admit they are cool looking, but they are a lemon. In 5 years I've had to replace all 5 of mine and a couple twice. Simply inexcusable from Pentair.
Agreed with Jeff, no pool builder should be recommending these light. Pool lights that leak are just not a good idea.
Anyone have recommendations to an alternative light? Mine have failed too.
@@stevenbentzler9232 Did you find an alternative? Mine also failed and are too expensive to break quickly?
Hi! Do you know if we can replace the broken grey/blue/white face plate (that we see from inside the pool around the light) without dismantling everything? Thanks so much!
Great video! Quick question. My pair of 4 year old Globrite lights began to both leak over the summer with the lights failing and water behind the lens. I contacted my pool company who came out today to replace them. As they began replacing the first the housing of the light began to just fall apart from the back end in pieces away from the cable. Now all that’s left is the sealed back gasket, gray tabs, and cable underground in the conduit. Any thoughts on how to get the tabs to unlock from the niche with really no housing left to grip to? My pool techs are unsure. Called Pentair and they don’t know either. Thanks again!
My problem was that the bodies started to crack from front to back. If the silicone keeps the water from coming into the niche it would definitely help. I would assume you lowered your water level to install?
Good video Peter! These lights are a nightmare for sure.. I wonder if it's worth changing the orings every season? I can't believe they charge what they do for these and they fail like they do. There has to be something else out there that will fit. That or doing what you've done or more?
Cheers
Matt
My pool contractor glued the male threaded niche onto the pvc pipe stub instead of what I would think you glue a coupler with female thread on other end that way the inch could be unthreaded I guess if you ever wanted to change different brand or whatever. Rich is correct glued or not? Thanks
Hi everyone, with the same problems of the expensive lights that as a life spend of maximum 5 years. Did anyone contact Pentair for any replacement upgrades. And who’s got the best prices for replacing them. Thanks
One problem I see with this quick fix is that you must avoid blocking the lenses groves with the caulking. Those inserts let water pass trough to maintain the light fixture cool. If the grooves get clogged the light will overheat and the light will start to turn off suddenly.
The o ring is not the only design flaw, they also develop a crack down the side of the body.
Agreed. I have 3 that all failed within 2 years of original install and all with horizontal cracks down the side of the casing. There has got to be a way to hold Pentair responsible.
Can you make a video on how to remove those exact lights. Can’t find one and would like to know
Great tip. I have the same problem with 2 of my 5 lights breaking within 5 years Pentair is delivering a bad product (underwater lights that leak), and subsequently does not back them up they expect you to just shell out $300 for a new one.
I've also been getting insane quotes to get them replaced, ranging from $150-250 per light. How many electricians does it really take to change a lightbulb?
I just had 3 lights go out. My pool contractor just quoted me $1200.00. PER LIGHT. $3600.00. Class Action lawsuit sounds great.
3 year old pool and one of two lights has failed. I'll try your caulking suggestion and hopefully get more life out of these. It's a complete and utter joke that LED lights that normally have a 25 year life fail so soon and are so expensive, not to mention what it costs to have them replaced. I found a pool contractor who will do it for $150 which is half what the Pool Companies want...unreal. Thanks for your video!
@@JustinKais I did manage to find the lights in the $200 range from a company out in Nevada. Got a pool guy to put it in for $150. It came with a 50 foot cord. That's a lot less than these pool companies like Leslie or Pinch A Penny want....over $600. Ridiculous.
@@davidgiudice7688 where did you find them for 200?
@@bkrides1 Following....
Had mine work for only 2 months, now light is coming on for 12mins and cutting off, any advice
We have 3 of these lights in our pool also. They all work, but one has come loose from the outer housing. We are trying to figure out how to put it back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You need the tool that comes with new lights when you buy them. It is a plastic disk that fits over the lens and allows you to push the light back into the housing, then twist is clockwise 1/8 turn to lock it into place. Without the tool, it is pretty difficult. Pentair does not have a part number for the tool so getting one other than buying a new light is pretty tough. You could ask a pool supplier in your area if they have any spares or could sell you one.
Did you have to drop the pool water level when you replaced the broken lights?
No, they are fully enclosed and can be removed underwater
It's been about 3 years how are the caulked versions holding up?
4 years now.... give us an update. Tired of replacing mine every 2-3 years.
Would adding the sealant void the manufacturer's warranty?
Who cares.. They only warranty for a short time and usually expired when they fail. I've had problems with Pentair honoring warranties anyway if you weren't a pool installer. Bottom line warranty is useless for most pentair junk.
How do you actually install the light to an existing pool? Any help?
You cannot. The proprietary nacelles are built into the pool when it is built.
How is this working for you? I need to replace two globrites that are going on their 5 th season (and I have barely used them...). The evidently leaked as yours and got corroded. Expensive Junk! Also, do you need to drain water below fixture to replace them? What prevents water from flowing out through conduit when you are replacing them?
So far so good. I have not had this light in long but I would also assume it will make removal much easier also since the clear lens usually unscrews on me leaving the black base inside the light housing.
You shouldn't need to drain the pool as the lights are usually connected the the above ground junction box with PVC pipe. This makes the lighting system water tight. Remember to turn off the circuit breaker to the lights if you are uncomfortable working with electricity. Also, only remove the lights when you have the gray removal tool (that comes with every replacement light you purchase). Push in and turn counter clockwise an eighth of a turn. (I usually can't get these lights to turn easily.)
Peter Cea Thank you Peter. You confirmed what I thought. I decided I will do the replacement myself as my local pool guys are really gauging on pricing of these charging close to $600 for one light!
How much time did it take to replace one light?
@@rwijnbelt its only about 15 minutes. you need someone to help. Best advice i can give is to attach a piece of nylon string to the wire when you pull out the old light, so you can then reattach to the end of the new wire and fish the new one back through the conduit easily.
@@kyletobin4857 It was only 15 minutes for you. 😉 I’ve replaced countless pool lights over the years. 25’ to 150’. Occasionally a light pull is quick and easy. These are fairly smooth because the cable is smaller due to the low voltage wire. That said I would never tell someone it will take 15 minutes to replace their light. Without knowing the age, length, and build there’s barely a way to guess. Even with that information the correct answer is “it depends”. I’ve seen light pulls take a few minutes, an hour, a day after sitting in tension, and even jobs that have had to be abandoned due to broken cables in the conduit.
My comment isn’t necessarily to school you. It’s more to give someone perspective if they’re 2 hours into their 15 minute light replacement wondering wtf they’re doing wrong.
Joining the conversation. I just purchased two replacements today and was wondering if anyone has figured out what the magic lube mentioned in the video is for. Could it be for the O-Ring at the bottom/back of the light that fits up against the back of the niche? Also would love to hear if the caulk worked a year later. Lastly, I had an idea to gently remove these every year for the winter before they are exposed to ice and low temperature...anyone else try this? Anyone with pool experience think this might help?
I thought about pulling them out for the winter too! Pretty pathetic that it's come too that.
I would be careful pulling them out every year. One of mine had the plastic light housing crumble to bits when I tried to remove it. I think they are better left untouched. I live in SW Florida so we use our pools year round and don't winterize..
The lube is for pulling the light wire through conduit
@@petercea3853 Curious to know how long they had been in use before you pulled them out? Mine will be about 4 months old when I try taking them out for the first time and I am counting on them being "like new"...if they crumble after that short period of time I will be livid. Thanks for responding!
@@rorycallendar4803 The one that crumbled had been in for around 4 years. It is the only one that did so maybe it was the method in which I was attempting to remove it.
What brand caulk did you use?
Hi Jeff, I used DAP Kwik Seal Kitchen and Bath caulk. You could probably have better results with a caulk designed for marine applications but I did not have that on hand and went with what was on my shelf. Thanks for viewing the video.
How has it held up with the caulk?
So far none of the caulked versions have failed but it is probably only a matter of time. The last original light just failed. I have yet to replace it.
Any update?
I had read that there was a design flaw with these early on, but that it was fixed in 2015. Any truth to this? I have had 2 fail within 4 years.
I have not heard that.
unfortunately I've had newer ones than that fail.
our pool was built after 2015 and had to replace both of them 3x in less than 8 years.
My other one went out, waiting for it to warm up so I can replace it.@@riccodman8346
It looks like the light unit may unclip from the power cable so only the light unit needs to be replaced
I have ordered a Pentair Globrite O -ring replacement kit to try and salvage my lights that have a brown rusty water in them
they turn on for 2 seconds and then they shut off so they still work until the water shorts the circuit
I have same rusty water issue. works for a few seconds. Did you manage to make yours work ?
@@a380yul The only way to make it work was to replace the entire metal light unit and 50' cable
*****EXTREMELY IMPORTANT****
TURNED OFF THE POWER FROM THE MAIN POWER BOX TO THE HOUSE AND ALSO THE POWER FROM THE POOL EQUIPMENT BOX
I purchased over the internet 2 lights, they each came with 50' cables attached
You can cut the cable to your desired length
There is no recycling of parts or an ability to fix these lights once the metal housing body has cracked and water has seeped into the electrical parts and circuits
From my pool equipment side there is a approx 6"X4" black electrical junction box that is about 5' above the ground it contains the electrical connections to the lights in the pool and to the pool control panel
The cables are held in place by clamps and the pipes that the cable sit in is sealed with clear silicon
Disconnect the clamps and then the cable
Use a screw driver and pliers and pull out the silicon that was in the cable pipes
I then tied a long piece of string to the end of the cable that I just disconnected and was attached to the broken light
(Roughly measure the length of string that will be needed from the distance of the light to the black electrical junction box)
Get into the pool and use the Globrite light key to unlock the light fixture from its housing located in the side wall of the pool
Pull the light and its cable out of its housing until the string that you had tied to the other end comes through
Untie the string from the old cable that you had just pulled through and while still in the pool tie the string to the NEW light cable
While in the pool take the end of the new cable and push it into the light housing in the wall of your pool until you feel it go into the hole that feeds it into the cable pipe that leads back to the black electrical junction box
Get out of the pool and go back to the black electrical junction box and pulled the string through until the new light cable comes through
Connect the new cable to the terminals in the black electrical junction box and resealed the cable pipes with clear silicon.
My NEW lights work perfectly
I had zero experience at what I just did except looking at a few You tube video's and looking at my equipment and seeing what's what and where does it go
Good luck and don't forget although these are only 12 Volt lights TURN THE POWER OFF
If you should kill yourself or anybody else while following what I did then foolish for you and I take zero responsibility
IF IN DOUBT CONSULT A PROFFESSIONAL TECHNICIAN OR YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF
BTW
When we turned the new lights on for the very first time I had my wife jump into the pool first
Part# 602054
Pentair LT Globrite 12V 50'
Color
@@fniguy281 Glad your wife was willing to help out with the project. 😂🤣
How about a video showing them being changed out?
unscrew existing light fixture from pool wall, cut off the cord , attach new light cord to the old one so you can fish it thru conduit pulling the wire from where is attached to the switch / controller . reconnect cable to switch , screw new light fixture in place. De nada.
I've found that the body of the lights develops cracks from where they pot the inside of the light tube with epoxy. These are junk. 2 -3 year life! I'm switching to the SR Smith lights.
Does the SR Smith light fit into the glowbrite niche?
Unfortunately Pentair locks you into their awful products; should be criminal to charge people $500 for something that won't last a year. Pentair acknowledge your products are garbage.
Terrible quality lights. I received replacements from Pentair but those failed again with 1,5 year. That really should not happen this quick with expensive lights like these. Anyone know a replacement from another brand that will fit so I can get rid of these. Not worth the money you spend.
There must be a aftermarket light somewhere that will cost less... 🙁
I haven't found one yet.
5 of 5 have failed in the first 2 years. I am considering 3d printing an adapter to convert the light to another manufacturer. Zero help from Pentair.
you didn't show how to change it???
My last original light just went bad. I will show that when I change it.
@@petercea3853 Have you replaced yet? How big is your pool? I keep seeing where people have multiples of these (4 yourself) and I am amazed at that. I have 1 Jandy Water Colors 30W that just died last season. I thought just one was bright enough for my 27k gallon rectangular pool. Is this model just not very bright? Also would love to see your install video if you ever did. Or did you go a different route?
these lights have a design flaw.. most last from 1 month to 1 year
These lights are garbage. They barely last 6 months. Gone through dozens with customers. I no longer use them.