Great tips Robin! One more tip: You can use the given autofocuspoints while using the EVF (camera screen is off) and touching/scrolling with your finger on the screen. So you don't need the arrow buttons and be much faster. If this is not working for you: Double tap the touchscreen while it's off and the function should work. If you don't wanna use this technique but your nose activates it sometimes you can turn it off with a double tap on the touchscreen while the screen is off.
5:40 Great tip! I didn't know that could be done. That's a great feature. Linking spot meter point to the auto focus point. 6:40 and 7:00 Another one. Thanks Robin!
2:53 Brilliant!😂😅🤣 Just an excellent video! Simple and really information dense. I'm going to see if I can find any of these features on my two OMD EM10IIs. By the way, my EM10IIs have some different features. The one with more features but less explanatory text is the earlier firmware version, surprisingly. When I checked the firmware version, those extra features disappeared! I did a reset and they came back! For example, it has about 3x as many self timer modes as the other EM10II. I need to make a video about it ... someday!🤣
Thank you for posting this video! I have a question about the Linking AF to Spot Metering. At 5:47 in the vide, you checked off "Spot"... Why not check off all three boxes? Is there any down side to not use all of them? Thanks for all the videos and help that you provide. Greg
Great!!. I have already used three of the tips. I never understood ON2, I had never thought about reset lens and I had not set AF/spot metering correctly. I use your videos to continuously improve the way I use my camera. Highly recommend them.
Just found your channel, greatness! I have learned more today watching 3-4 videos than in the past year. Especially like the detailed menu instructions!
Thanks Robin. Very informative tips and reminders for sure. ON 2 is also very useful while in C-AF mode especially for moving subjects such as birds. Select all focus points and then you will get a shifting cluster group of focus points which will be highlighted.
One thing I really wish Olympus would add to Workspace is for the software to show where the focus point was in the photo.
Your videos always make me happy! Incidentally, I just checked my cameras for tomorrow's assignment and had some major focusing problems in low light with the contrast AF (em5 II). Thanks to all the gods of Olympus for focus peaking ;-) I hope the lock down ends soon and you can go back to street photography! Cheers!
Didn't know the one about focus peaking! I'll give i t a try. Very useful the reset focus and the link spot metering to AF point, i love those, Thank you Robin.
Robin; as always thanks for your excellent reviews. I think there is need for a video comparing the Continuous Auto-Focus (CAF) and Face Detect (FD) capabilities of the new EM1 MKIII vs the current CAF and FD on EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII. I note some confusion by some reviewers on the CAF and FD capabilities of Olympus cameras suggesting that the CAF and FD features of the EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII (with all current firmware updates) are the same as that on the EM1 MKIII, which I believe to not be true. I believe the EM1 MKIII is unique in its capabilities for CAF and FD and eye detect and that it is possible these capabilities may be shared with other Olympus cameras in the future (firmware updates) IF the microprocessors on those other cameras can handle the computing load required. Just a suggestion; hopefully a good one.
Robin this was very helpful. I also saw your original 5 AF Tips, - Would like to request tips on Continuous AF and AF tracking. I try to use it for Birds in Flight but I struggle using these modes.
At the moment Oly's CAF+Tracking is not very effective for birds in flight. A better option is to use CAF with the three or five group AF area. Depending on what lens you are using or the distance of the subject you may or may not want to enable center point priority for the AF area. I hope that helps.
@@Jay19876 thanks, that is what I found also. The only option I found is what you recommended using CAF with area AF. I found that this the best I found but not great. Thanks for confirming. I thought I was not using it correctly??
I don't shoot birds in flight, and now that I am stuck at home in urban environment it is even more difficult to do so. Shooting fast moving objects is a skill that not many photographers have, I certainly don't have it.
@@michaelkrueger17 If you don't mind me asking, what lens do you typically use (i.e. the Oly 40-150mm F2.8, Oly 300mm F4 Pro) and which camera model do you use for capturing birds in flight? The 300mm takes substantially more practice to keep the bird in the AF area because of the much smaller field of view. Also, the 40-150 F2.8 is faster at acquiring focus due to its shorter focal lengths and its two linear drive motors that can rack focus extremely fast while maintaining accuracy.
@@Jay19876 If you use long telephotos, here's an extremely useful accessory to have: the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. It's especially useful for photographing birds in flight.
Hi Robin, thanks a lot for these useful tips. I think its very useful for me and some other. Stay healthy and best regards from Germany. Stay relax when drinking the Coffee ;-)
Thanks Robin for another very helpful video. I am going to try out your tips immediately. I would also like to hear sth about the AF modes for moving subjects.
Idea for another video: I would be interested in a video on these topics: how you chimp your photos and do you dump images from the camera or do you do you import them all and dump the unusable ones there, when you have a bigger view.I would like to be more efficient in keeping the good and dumping the bad photos.
Depends on the shoot. For professional/work environment, I don't delete photos. I keep everything, just in case. For personal shoots, say a street photography session, yes I delete unwanted photos on the spot, because those are non-consequential and I want to have less photos to deal with at the end of the day.
As always very useful video... I just bought an E-m1 mark ii... Will take a look at all the video you did on this camera to learn a lot... Thanks a lot
Love your work, Robin. Can you please explain what phase detect auto focus means. (I just bought a used EM1 mk II used) and am hoping for more reliable sharpness. As a matter of fact I can only afford used non pro lenses. I would enjoy a segment comparing pix with similar pro and non pro lenses. This is an expensive hobby but I love it. How do you take your coffee?
To use the touchscreen and don't loose the precise AF point switch to manual focus after the AF has focused. Now you can gently use the touch screen to reduce camera shaking even more.
Poor little guy did a face plant! Once again you have made another excellent video Robin, I use the Ok button to return to the center frame all the time, now where did I hear that from? Oh yeah it was you!
Thanks Rich, appreciate the kind words and I am glad I can help out. The OK hold down for center focus function is so useful I guess it is harmless to repeat it here, in case others miss it.
Excellent advice! I look forward to using your tips in the field. New Question: whenever I change batteries, it seems that the metadata time of day a picture was taken is way off. I have an EM5 Mkii. Is this a common event or am I doing something wrong? I look forward to your next video!
Good tips, Robin! I've always wondered what the 'Lens Reset' was good for; now it can save me some hassle. BTW: Pressing and holding the OK button does not return the focus point to the middle on my E-M5 MkIII. But I've already defined a custom button to return to the middle as my home focus point.
Hi Robin, is there a video on these focus boxes. How do I set up in M so I can just control the shutter and f-stop and not keep seeing boxes appearing?
Hi Robin. Thank you very much for your video. It would be great to make a video about continuous autofocus and shooting speeds. With moving objects, for example a game of soccer or baseball. Thank you
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think I am able to do that anytime soon. I am still sort of stuck at home (lockdown) and even after the lockdown is lifted I don't think sports events are allowed. I can talk or make a video about the techniques but without actual demonstration it is very, very difficult to explain certain things. I got quite a negative feedback the last time I did this - demonstrating low light shooting with high ISO on fast moving subjects, I demonstrated it on a Lego Figure just to prove the high ISO noise (which has nothing to do with movement) and I was stabbed multiple times left right center and back for not slowing down my shutter speed and lowering my ISO. God. I am NOT going to go through that again. I hope you understand.
@@robinwong Well Robin, some people are just never satisfied with your great free advice!🙄 That's their problem. I would remove any of their comments and block them!🤣👍
Good video, I have a question, how to deactivate the light that help focus? I only want to deactivate it in order to make street photography without attracting the attention of the people. I will save it at my C1 mode
Hi Robin! I've really enjoyed your channel - thank you for providing great and USEFUL content in a very clear manner! I have a question for your regarding my EM1 II and my Zuiko ED 100-400 lens. I was shooting the moon eclipse 2 days ago from my backyard. I could not figure out how to focus on the moon when it became dark red. Camera just wouldn't do it. I tried in manual focusing mode (both camera and lens) and tried in auto mode. One of my photo friends said that the technique is to start early when the moon is bright, use auto-focus to set the initial focus, then to switch to manual mode and focus manually. I tried that - same result - could not get a sharp image especially in zoom. What surprised me the most is that I could not set the lens to Infinity mode as you could with old 35mm SLR cameras and lenses. What am I missing? Would appreciate any tips from you for shooting a lunar eclipse. Thank you!
Wondering if there is a quick way of turning off spot metering on the focus point, for example, if you’re shooting a silhouette, you don’t want them linked. Just thinking that with back button focusing you may not need them linked at all as metering still works with half-press of the shutter, so it’d be metering first, BBF after. Tricky.
Greetings Robin, How do I link multiple focus points (ie 5, 9, or 20 points) with AE? Like you can for spot focus point. (OMD M1 Mark III). Love your videos!!! Thanks Joe
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can share. I turn the Fn lever OFF. I explained this in my previous OM-D tips video, it has caused me many problems in the past and I have missed many important shots because of the Fn switch. Never again.
For selecting autofocus point location on the em1 mark ii, i use my thumb on the rear monitor while looking through the evf. I find this method very fast and less fumbly than using the arrow pad for selecting autofocus point location. This is not the same as robin explained on the video while viewing the image on the rear monitor. This method only works while looking through the evf and uses the monitor as a sort of joystick. Menu > A2 AF Targeting pad > On. This also allows selection of the autofocus point mode either by dials or arrow pad. That can be customized in the above menu through [+] Custom Settings. Note: J1 Touchscreen Settings > On must also be set for this to work. The downside is that this does not work with gloves.
I have shared this in my previous AF tips for OM-D video. AF Targeting Pad. Please see that video if you have not. As I mentioned, I won't repeat my tips I have shared in that previous video.
Wow Robin! You are very good at describing these features - thank you. I’m currently trying to decide between the E-M5 III and the E-M1 III. The price difference is significant so I wanted to ask your opinion of general camera use and change of AF point selection while wearing cycling gloves. I know the E-M1 III will be better but do you think that the E-M5 III can be effectively used with gloves when speed of changing AF point is important?
I had set Spot AF to be linked with Spot Exposure, but this video made me think... Again one of the bad habits. I use Center-Weighted exposure, along with center AF. I half-press the shutter button, recompose and then press it fully. This came out badly when I borrowed my camera to a friend who take a picture of me. Center-Weighted exposure took metering from my black shirt, and Aperture mode (F1.4) critically overexposed my face. In this video I realized i can switch between Center-Weighted and Spot metering exposure modes using AEL button (menu E3 also allows to assign different exposure mode to AEL button). I set spot metering for AEL, so regardless if i use ESP or Center Weighted exposure mode, the button will read spot exposure from the focus point and keep it locked until pressed again. Finally AEL button has an useful purpose.
There are MANY ways to meter a subject. I don't use spot metering, but I do adjust the exposure compensation generously between shots to get the exposure look that I want for my images. There is no right and wrong I guess, but use the method that works best for you.
Yesterday i spent 50% of my battery just to test, configure and get used to it. :D Since i am not fan of backbutton focus, i was mainly looking for a meaningful usage of AEL button. I use single-point focus, and now same point can be used to read and lock exposure with AEL, possibly repositioned instead of recomposing and then used for focus. This is very useful if one spot on the image and the other spot are not within +-3 stops - like an object in a room vs object outside of the window. This speeds things up when using Aperture mode... Releasing the AEL will switch be back to ESP or Center-Wieghted exposure
Hi Robin great tips once again I'm fairly new to macro and have recently baught the OMD EM1 mk III (amazing camera!) and the 60mm F.2.8 macro lens. however at the moment, to get used to the camera I've got it set to P mode and using auto focus but have been experiencing focus "issues" were the camera seems to just concentrate on a narrow band of focus (like a" line" across the middle of the lens) with everything surrounding it out of focus and this seems to happen every time I try and frame the shot. is this probably to do with were the focus is set on the grid?? would really appreciate any help to resolve this issue cheers.
Hi, Robin. Thank you again for your great content. Fixing the green AF square does not work with my EM1. Any hint? TXS, I will buy you a coffee.... Omy
I really like the customizable auto focus groups you can make with the Panasonic G9. I really like how there is an exposure setting on my Nikon camera that ignores the highlights. When I'm out videoing and photographing runners and bicyclists and cars I would like to have a autofocus strip from the center line to the lower third of the viewfinder and I would like the camera exposure to completely ignore the sky.
G9 does not have phase detect AF and is quite far behind when it comes to subject tracking/C-AF both in stills and video. I am not aware of the Nikon highlight function, that could explain why Rob Trek and other photographers were having issues with blown out images from their Nikon full frame cameras, which was not seen in other cameras when they do side by side comparison.
You can, if that is your preference. I generally still have the lens reset ON because for street photography I do want the lens to focus far, not near.
Hi Robin. 👋 I've been watching your videos since I got my m10 iii. I Decided to buy a refurbished e5 ii but I wanted to have the focus point always on (green square). I couldn't find it in the menu. I guess there is no always on focus point on e5 ii. I'm sad. Please help. Thanks
Great set of tips But not sure I understand the focus point selection tip. For cameras with the 121 cross type auto focus points do you mean by using the touch screen you do not select one of these or does this mean using the touch screen does not activate the phase detect part of the auto focus just the contrast detect part? I have always used the rear screen touch, a left over from my E-P5 usage. Is phase detect used in single AF as well as continuous focus, as this has been discussed in the forums to no definite solution that I have seen.
The exact locations of the phase detect AF sensors are placed exactly on the default AF selection mode, hence if you use those points you will have maximum AF sensitivity, speed and accuracy. By selecting the LCD touch screen AF, a different box appears and they may not be able to maximise the potential of the phase detect AF. For most shooting situations this is not an issue but for run and gun photographer and that split second reaction can make or break the shot, I highly recommend using the default AF selection positions.
You can use the Joystick of course, that is the better option if you have it. For other camera users (who don't own E-M1X or E-M1 Mark III) the OK button helps a lot.
My point was that for the E-1 Mark II and Mark III only the joystick works, The OK button does not. Just trying to save some frustration for those owners.
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Let`s do this (with a big smile in his voice) ---- I love Robin! lol
Finally got my hands on mine today and played with it for the last 3 hours. Now I'm jumping around all of your videos to get a crash course😆
You are a delight in this challenging world. I visit to learn and feel like you are a longtime friend. Thank you Robin!
You are simply the BEST when it comes to giving me useful information for my Olympus. Thank you so much. Oh, and I love your enthusiasm!
Great tips Robin! One more tip: You can use the given autofocuspoints while using the EVF (camera screen is off) and touching/scrolling with your finger on the screen. So you don't need the arrow buttons and be much faster. If this is not working for you: Double tap the touchscreen while it's off and the function should work. If you don't wanna use this technique but your nose activates it sometimes you can turn it off with a double tap on the touchscreen while the screen is off.
Thank you for so generously sharing the functionality of the Olympus.
2:11 There is fantastic background blur in that bird photo!
5:40 Great tip! I didn't know that could be done. That's a great feature. Linking spot meter point to the auto focus point. 6:40 and 7:00 Another one. Thanks Robin!
The reason why I love my M1 III, is your tipps and tricks 👍
Came back to this video , and made sure I still had the settings advised . Thank you .
2:53 Brilliant!😂😅🤣 Just an excellent video! Simple and really information dense. I'm going to see if I can find any of these features on my two OMD EM10IIs. By the way, my EM10IIs have some different features. The one with more features but less explanatory text is the earlier firmware version, surprisingly. When I checked the firmware version, those extra features disappeared! I did a reset and they came back! For example, it has about 3x as many self timer modes as the other EM10II. I need to make a video about it ... someday!🤣
Thank you for posting this video! I have a question about the Linking AF to Spot Metering. At 5:47 in the vide, you checked off "Spot"... Why not check off all three boxes? Is there any down side to not use all of them?
Thanks for all the videos and help that you provide.
Greg
Great!!. I have already used three of the tips. I never understood ON2, I had never thought about reset lens and I had not set AF/spot metering correctly. I use your videos to continuously improve the way I use my camera. Highly recommend them.
Thanks Judith, glad you like the video and found the tips useful!
now we just have to trust oly firmware update saves the settings and wont crash :)
@@robinwong Those three tips in particular are very useful indeed and it's a hugely useful video. Thanks!
These videos are very helpful for someone who is new to Olympus, they shorten the learning curve. Thank you.
Just found your channel, greatness! I have learned more today watching 3-4 videos than in the past year. Especially like the detailed menu instructions!
Thanks Robin. Very informative tips and reminders for sure.
ON 2 is also very useful while in C-AF mode especially for moving subjects such as birds. Select all focus points and then you will get a shifting cluster group of focus points which will be highlighted.
One thing I really wish Olympus would add to Workspace is for the software to show where the focus point was in the photo.
Love that tip to get the pointer back to the center. Thanks Robin.
Lately I've been trying to use spot metering more often. Aligning spot metering with the focus point is really helpful!
Robin, you know your cameras very well! Thanks again...
Thanks, I am glad I can share my knowledge here.
Magic... I had no idea about peaking. Thank you sir!
Yeah, you have to assign peaking and/or magnify to a button for it to work in manual focus mode too. That one tripped me up for bit.
Good tips Robin!
Check out my AF/manual focusing tips video. You don't need to assign anything in manual focus, the peaking/magnify can work automatically.
Robin Wong, sorry I meant to say with non-cpu lenses. I’m using a Voigtlander 17.5 f/0.95.
Your videos always make me happy!
Incidentally, I just checked my cameras for tomorrow's assignment and had some major focusing problems in low light with the contrast AF (em5 II). Thanks to all the gods of Olympus for focus peaking ;-)
I hope the lock down ends soon and you can go back to street photography!
Cheers!
Just ordered an E-M10 Mk 3 (good prices nowadays) and waiting for delivery. Your videos have been helpful, thanks. Just bought you a coffee.
Thank you for everything you do!
Didn't know the one about focus peaking! I'll give i t a try. Very useful the reset focus and the link spot metering to AF point, i love those, Thank you Robin.
Thank You Robin. Your tips have made me love my Oly even more.
Thank you for all these tips and all your work ! I really like all of your videos and contents you do . Thank you !
Thanks Andre, appreciate the kind words!
Robin; as always thanks for your excellent reviews. I think there is need for a video comparing the Continuous Auto-Focus (CAF) and Face Detect (FD) capabilities of the new EM1 MKIII vs the current CAF and FD on EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII. I note some confusion by some reviewers on the CAF and FD capabilities of Olympus cameras suggesting that the CAF and FD features of the EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII (with all current firmware updates) are the same as that on the EM1 MKIII, which I believe to not be true. I believe the EM1 MKIII is unique in its capabilities for CAF and FD and eye detect and that it is possible these capabilities may be shared with other Olympus cameras in the future (firmware updates) IF the microprocessors on those other cameras can handle the computing load required. Just a suggestion; hopefully a good one.
I never knew that there are so much for focusing.
Well done!
Brilliant. This is more useful to me than the 1st video. Well done and thanks Robin.
Robin this was very helpful. I also saw your original 5 AF Tips, - Would like to request tips on Continuous AF and AF tracking. I try to use it for Birds in Flight but I struggle using these modes.
At the moment Oly's CAF+Tracking is not very effective for birds in flight. A better option is to use CAF with the three or five group AF area. Depending on what lens you are using or the distance of the subject you may or may not want to enable center point priority for the AF area. I hope that helps.
@@Jay19876 thanks, that is what I found also. The only option I found is what you recommended using CAF with area AF. I found that this the best I found but not great. Thanks for confirming. I thought I was not using it correctly??
I don't shoot birds in flight, and now that I am stuck at home in urban environment it is even more difficult to do so. Shooting fast moving objects is a skill that not many photographers have, I certainly don't have it.
@@michaelkrueger17 If you don't mind me asking, what lens do you typically use (i.e. the Oly 40-150mm F2.8, Oly 300mm F4 Pro) and which camera model do you use for capturing birds in flight? The 300mm takes substantially more practice to keep the bird in the AF area because of the much smaller field of view. Also, the 40-150 F2.8 is faster at acquiring focus due to its shorter focal lengths and its two linear drive motors that can rack focus extremely fast while maintaining accuracy.
@@Jay19876 If you use long telephotos, here's an extremely useful accessory to have: the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. It's especially useful for photographing birds in flight.
Hi Robin, thanks a lot for these useful tips. I think its very useful for me and some other. Stay healthy and best regards from Germany. Stay relax when drinking the Coffee ;-)
Thanks Robin for another very helpful video. I am going to try out your tips immediately. I would also like to hear sth about the AF modes for moving subjects.
Please see my previous AF tip video if you have not. I talked about C-AF there.
As usual, an excellent straight to the point video. Thank you!!
Idea for another video: I would be interested in a video on these topics: how you chimp your photos and do you dump images from the camera or do you do you import them all and dump the unusable ones there, when you have a bigger view.I would like to be more efficient in keeping the good and dumping the bad photos.
Depends on the shoot. For professional/work environment, I don't delete photos. I keep everything, just in case. For personal shoots, say a street photography session, yes I delete unwanted photos on the spot, because those are non-consequential and I want to have less photos to deal with at the end of the day.
Such good tips Robin, thank you so much. Olympus cameras have so many awesome features.
Thanks Paul, appreciate the kind words.
As always very useful video... I just bought an E-m1 mark ii... Will take a look at all the video you did on this camera to learn a lot... Thanks a lot
Thanks, appreciate the kind words. Happy shooting with the E-M1 Mark II!
@@robinwong enjoy you coffees my friend ! cheers from france
You enthousiasm is wow !
Wow Robin, thanks for those great tips . Your most helpful and i reckon Olympus should pay you A WHOLE LOT OF MONEY. 👍👍
Love your work, Robin. Can you please explain what phase detect auto focus means. (I just bought a used EM1 mk II used) and am hoping for more reliable sharpness. As a matter of fact I can only afford used non pro lenses. I would enjoy a segment comparing pix with similar pro and non pro lenses. This is an expensive hobby but I love it. How do you take your coffee?
To use the touchscreen and don't loose the precise AF point switch to manual focus after the AF has focused. Now you can gently use the touch screen to reduce camera shaking even more.
Thanks Mr Rabin very useful vdo for me.Iam useing OMD EM1 last five years. I am great full to your RUclips channel.
Thank you so much! Very useful tips! Greetings from Greece!
Thx for the focus centering way 😁 have been looking for this 😅
No worries, I have shared this in my many OM-D tips previous videos. Please do see those older videos, in case you miss anything important.
Your videos are always so helpful
Thank you so much! These are fantastic tips!
Thank you for making me laugh so hard watching you trying to make a good video for us ( watching those bloopers at the end ...) 😄😄😄
Poor little guy did a face plant! Once again you have made another excellent video Robin, I use the Ok button to return to the center frame all the time, now where did I hear that from? Oh yeah it was you!
Thanks Rich, appreciate the kind words and I am glad I can help out. The OK hold down for center focus function is so useful I guess it is harmless to repeat it here, in case others miss it.
@@robinwong You're absolutely right Robin it's very useful so I'm thinking it can be repeated in a few more videos!
A cup of ☕️ for Robin 👍
Hi,Robin can em5 mark 11 lock spot meter and focus or direct me please ,very new to olympus ,enjoy your instruction,just awesome.
Excellent advice! I look forward to using your tips in the field.
New Question: whenever I change batteries, it seems that the metadata time of day a picture was taken is way off. I have an EM5 Mkii. Is this a common event or am I doing something wrong? I look forward to your next video!
Very helpful video. Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot for the video. As always full of useful and handy tips. Much appreciated...
Thanks, I am glad I can help out a bit.
All useful tips Robin. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much again Robin. I would love to see a Video from you were you give us some Tips for the best Video Settings on the EM1MK3!
Thanks, but I am not a videographer though. I am a photographer.
Excellent tips! Thanks Robin.
Thanks for the kind words
Good tips, Robin! I've always wondered what the 'Lens Reset' was good for; now it can save me some hassle. BTW: Pressing and holding the OK button does not return the focus point to the middle on my E-M5 MkIII. But I've already defined a custom button to return to the middle as my home focus point.
Hello Carl! Really? It works fine to my E-M5 MkII.
Fantastic video Robin!! The last part is so fun 😁👌
Thanks. Fun for you, but not fun for me though.
@@robinwong Absolutely 😉
Good job Robin, like always, you are the best!
Hi Robin, is there a video on these focus boxes. How do I set up in M so I can just control the shutter and f-stop and not keep seeing boxes appearing?
Love yours videos,you are very nice person.Thank you.
Thanks, appreciate the kind words!
Very useful ! Thank you Robin :)
Your content is so helpful. Thankyou 🙂
Hi Robin. Thank you very much for your video. It would be great to make a video about continuous autofocus and shooting speeds. With moving objects, for example a game of soccer or baseball. Thank you
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think I am able to do that anytime soon. I am still sort of stuck at home (lockdown) and even after the lockdown is lifted I don't think sports events are allowed. I can talk or make a video about the techniques but without actual demonstration it is very, very difficult to explain certain things. I got quite a negative feedback the last time I did this - demonstrating low light shooting with high ISO on fast moving subjects, I demonstrated it on a Lego Figure just to prove the high ISO noise (which has nothing to do with movement) and I was stabbed multiple times left right center and back for not slowing down my shutter speed and lowering my ISO. God. I am NOT going to go through that again. I hope you understand.
@@robinwong Well Robin, some people are just never satisfied with your great free advice!🙄 That's their problem. I would remove any of their comments and block them!🤣👍
Good video, I have a question, how to deactivate the light that help focus? I only want to deactivate it in order to make street photography without attracting the attention of the people. I will save it at my C1 mode
Awesome tips
That is great tip. Thanks Robin.
Hi Robin! I've really enjoyed your channel - thank you for providing great and USEFUL content in a very clear manner! I have a question for your regarding my EM1 II and my Zuiko ED 100-400 lens. I was shooting the moon eclipse 2 days ago from my backyard. I could not figure out how to focus on the moon when it became dark red. Camera just wouldn't do it. I tried in manual focusing mode (both camera and lens) and tried in auto mode. One of my photo friends said that the technique is to start early when the moon is bright, use auto-focus to set the initial focus, then to switch to manual mode and focus manually. I tried that - same result - could not get a sharp image especially in zoom. What surprised me the most is that I could not set the lens to Infinity mode as you could with old 35mm SLR cameras and lenses. What am I missing? Would appreciate any tips from you for shooting a lunar eclipse. Thank you!
Very useful tips again, Robin. I can.t switch the af area pointer on my em5 II. Cannot find it in the A menu.
Don't think that is an option for older cameras, but all the new cameras have that now.
Great tipps, thank you so much
Wondering if there is a quick way of turning off spot metering on the focus point, for example, if you’re shooting a silhouette, you don’t want them linked. Just thinking that with back button focusing you may not need them linked at all as metering still works with half-press of the shutter, so it’d be metering first, BBF after. Tricky.
You are working too hard for us Robin. Informative as usual,had to go and change to On2...
No worries Gary, my pleasure to share!
Greetings Robin,
How do I link multiple focus points (ie 5, 9, or 20 points) with AE? Like you can for spot focus point. (OMD M1 Mark III).
Love your videos!!!
Thanks
Joe
Excelent and so useful. I am sure there is so much more you can teach us. What do you use the fn leaver for?
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can share. I turn the Fn lever OFF. I explained this in my previous OM-D tips video, it has caused me many problems in the past and I have missed many important shots because of the Fn switch. Never again.
Great tips, thx Robin
Cheers
Another one well done. Thank you - coffee is on the way ;-)
Great video Robin. Will the autofocus green box remain lit, tip #2, if you are using "back button focusing" or just the shutter button?
Thanks. I don't use BBF though, give it a try and see if it works?
That ‘reset lens’ tip is a life saver!....🍹🤩🌈😎🇬🇧
Thanks Peter, glad you found that useful.
Thanks For the Video 🙏
Robin, one more question - what is the scenario for using focus peaking with Autofocus and what is the benefit.
Thank you! Very helpful!
Cheers!
For selecting autofocus point location on the em1 mark ii, i use my thumb on the rear monitor while looking through the evf. I find this method very fast and less fumbly than using the arrow pad for selecting autofocus point location. This is not the same as robin explained on the video while viewing the image on the rear monitor. This method only works while looking through the evf and uses the monitor as a sort of joystick. Menu > A2 AF Targeting pad > On. This also allows selection of the autofocus point mode either by dials or arrow pad. That can be customized in the above menu through [+] Custom Settings. Note: J1 Touchscreen Settings > On must also be set for this to work. The downside is that this does not work with gloves.
I have shared this in my previous AF tips for OM-D video. AF Targeting Pad. Please see that video if you have not. As I mentioned, I won't repeat my tips I have shared in that previous video.
Hi Robin,
I have M10 Mark3 but there is no option for 'Spot Meetering'(Tip3) on my camera. How can i setup my camera ?
Wow Robin! You are very good at describing these features - thank you. I’m currently trying to decide between the E-M5 III and the E-M1 III. The price difference is significant so I wanted to ask your opinion of general camera use and change of AF point selection while wearing cycling gloves. I know the E-M1 III will be better but do you think that the E-M5 III can be effectively used with gloves when speed of changing AF point is important?
The Buttons on EM5 Mark III is very small. EM1 III will be better to hold and spaced enough to avoid accidents.
I had set Spot AF to be linked with Spot Exposure, but this video made me think...
Again one of the bad habits. I use Center-Weighted exposure, along with center AF. I half-press the shutter button, recompose and then press it fully. This came out badly when I borrowed my camera to a friend who take a picture of me. Center-Weighted exposure took metering from my black shirt, and Aperture mode (F1.4) critically overexposed my face.
In this video I realized i can switch between Center-Weighted and Spot metering exposure modes using AEL button (menu E3 also allows to assign different exposure mode to AEL button). I set spot metering for AEL, so regardless if i use ESP or Center Weighted exposure mode, the button will read spot exposure from the focus point and keep it locked until pressed again.
Finally AEL button has an useful purpose.
Hey, thanks. This is a very nice tip. Cheers
There are MANY ways to meter a subject. I don't use spot metering, but I do adjust the exposure compensation generously between shots to get the exposure look that I want for my images. There is no right and wrong I guess, but use the method that works best for you.
Yesterday i spent 50% of my battery just to test, configure and get used to it. :D
Since i am not fan of backbutton focus, i was mainly looking for a meaningful usage of AEL button.
I use single-point focus, and now same point can be used to read and lock exposure with AEL, possibly repositioned instead of recomposing and then used for focus. This is very useful if one spot on the image and the other spot are not within +-3 stops - like an object in a room vs object outside of the window. This speeds things up when using Aperture mode...
Releasing the AEL will switch be back to ESP or Center-Wieghted exposure
Hi Robin great tips once again I'm fairly new to macro and have recently baught the OMD EM1 mk III (amazing camera!) and the 60mm F.2.8 macro lens. however at the moment, to get used to the camera I've got it set to P mode and using auto focus but have been experiencing focus "issues" were the camera seems to just concentrate on a narrow band of focus (like a" line" across the middle of the lens) with everything surrounding it out of focus and this seems to happen every time I try and frame the shot. is this probably to do with were the focus is set on the grid?? would really appreciate any help to resolve this issue cheers.
Hi, Robin. Thank you again for your great content. Fixing the green AF square does not work with my EM1. Any hint? TXS, I will buy you a coffee.... Omy
Uuuh, no answer for me????
The focus point is jumping all over when I am walking, how do I make it stay in the middle? Thnks
Is focus peaking similar to depth of field preview?
I really like the customizable auto focus groups you can make with the Panasonic G9. I really like how there is an exposure setting on my Nikon camera that ignores the highlights. When I'm out videoing and photographing runners and bicyclists and cars I would like to have a autofocus strip from the center line to the lower third of the viewfinder and I would like the camera exposure to completely ignore the sky.
G9 does not have phase detect AF and is quite far behind when it comes to subject tracking/C-AF both in stills and video. I am not aware of the Nikon highlight function, that could explain why Rob Trek and other photographers were having issues with blown out images from their Nikon full frame cameras, which was not seen in other cameras when they do side by side comparison.
Great tips!
Cheers
Can you leave Lens Reset off permanently...even if you are not shooting macro?
You can, if that is your preference. I generally still have the lens reset ON because for street photography I do want the lens to focus far, not near.
@@robinwong got it. Thanks Robin.
@@robinwong For street photography when you shoot a portrait you change Lens Reset to OFF ?
Hi Robin. How to set focus to Infiniti ?
Thank you!
Hi Robin. 👋 I've been watching your videos since I got my m10 iii. I Decided to buy a refurbished e5 ii but I wanted to have the focus point always on (green square). I couldn't find it in the menu. I guess there is no always on focus point on e5 ii. I'm sad. Please help. Thanks
I mean when half pressed. I want the green focus box to remain on until I make the shot. Thanks again for your great videos.
Great set of tips
But not sure I understand the focus point selection tip. For cameras with the 121 cross type auto focus points do you mean by using the touch screen you do not select one of these or does this mean using the touch screen does not activate the phase detect part of the auto focus just the contrast detect part?
I have always used the rear screen touch, a left over from my E-P5 usage.
Is phase detect used in single AF as well as continuous focus, as this has been discussed in the forums to no definite solution that I have seen.
The exact locations of the phase detect AF sensors are placed exactly on the default AF selection mode, hence if you use those points you will have maximum AF sensitivity, speed and accuracy. By selecting the LCD touch screen AF, a different box appears and they may not be able to maximise the potential of the phase detect AF. For most shooting situations this is not an issue but for run and gun photographer and that split second reaction can make or break the shot, I highly recommend using the default AF selection positions.
Thank you.
Brilliant
On the OMD EM1 MarkIII returning the focus point to the center position is accomplished by pressing the joy stick button and not the OK button.
It also works with the ok Button, just tested it
Yes, the X also re-centers with the joystick and OK.
You can use the Joystick of course, that is the better option if you have it. For other camera users (who don't own E-M1X or E-M1 Mark III) the OK button helps a lot.
My point was that for the E-1 Mark II and Mark III only the joystick works, The OK button does not. Just trying to save some frustration for those owners.
@sherman henzel as repeated by a few others the OK button works. Both for E-M1 Mark II and Mark III.
Fantastic!
Thanks!