My wife retired school teacher still driving het New Edge 99 V-6 70.000.00. She purchased it new off the showroom floor TX Ford!can’t get out of it,garage kept it entire life,Alcopolco Blueprint/white stripes-looks nice when I wax it!!she still teaching,short commute,I dream about doing heavy mods on it,she won’t here it👍
I recently changed my FPR to a Z1 Motorsports FPR and am not gettting drain down issues with fuel. I do however see a slight decrease in pressure over time and it’s probably due to the junk aeromotive fuel pump. I had no issues with my walbro when I swapped it. I think it’s safe to say aeromotive makes junk parts. The Z1 FPR has exactly the same ports as the aeromotive but actually holds pressure and was confirmed by their engineering team via email. It is sold as a 350z 370z regulator but would drop right in for those of you having issues with aeromotive junk. Never again.
Your fuel pump anti drain back valve is what controls the fuel pressure holding after the pumps off and how long. Theres been a few post on the old forums recently asking about it. Pretty sure you had a post on Stangnet about it or some else with a similar issue. I had cars that held it for awhile and some that dropped as soon as it keys off. Used all kinds of pumps and regulators over the years with stock rails. Usually bought a kirban if the car didn't all ready have an adjustable or aftermarket fuel rails on it when I bought it.
I have an aeromotive regulator as well. It drops to zero right away. When it was new it would hold for some time. Called and they told Me same thing. I think it’s a poor design. Might try a cheapo eBay unit and see if it holds when key off.
I went through a lot of time, money, and pain over this just to find out it’s normal. I think they need a note in the box that specifies it will not work like a factory regulator.
I wish I had found this earlier but you really should check out your fuel pressure relay it’s underneath your driver seat when it gets hot it will cut out and the car won’t start until it really cools off again it will run for maybe about five minutes and then just shut off. Your fuel pressure shouldn’t stay Max when you turn the key off it will always bleed back. The mustang in my avatar I finished building a 10 years ago it’s got a forged 331 all Edelbrock top end of Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger Walbro fuel pump BBK regulator and it’s always done that it’s supposed to do that when you turn the key on you will hear your fuel pump kick on and that is charging the system. To reiterate when you shut the key off the fuel will always bleed back there’s no reason for her to stay charged some guys will put a check valve in so that doesn’t happen but they are usually running a mechanical high pressure fuel pump and the cranking takes too long to start the car but for your normal system they all bleed back that’s why when you turn on the key on the fuel pump turns on for a few seconds and recharge the system if your fuel pump is not doing that that’s where you should start looking at for your problem but not at the pump at what is telling the pump come on, the computer or the relay underneath your driver seat. I told you about my car so you would know I have a good idea what I’m talking about I built the whole thing and I have 35 years of working on cars under my belt stop worrying about your fuel pressure bleeding off when you shut off the key it’s got nothing to do with your problem System recharges every time you turn the key on, that’s not your problem Edit I said this before the end of the video by the time you got to the regulator close to the end of your video I was starting to panic at the amount of money you spent but if you’re having a hot no start problem just check your fuel pump relay that’s why I left this entire message.
If you've got the stock style starter then I'd guarantee that's your starting issues. I went through the same thing with my foxbody. Thought it was because the battery was in the trunk and because of not enough grounds and all this other stuff. Then i put in an sve high torque mini starter and wrapped it with some heat wrap stuff and haven't had an issue. The big factory style starter sits basically touching the block and gets super hot.
I much prefer the Kirban fpr over aeromotive. I got the el cheapo adjustable fpr from Lmr on mine but it only goes up to 45psi. If i outgrow it ill be going kirban.
I had the Kirban adjustable FPR on it initially. It lasted about three years but it did start leaking from the vacuum port. I how fly only bought the aeromotive because I wanted the fuel pressure moved from the fuel line up to the FTP for easier visibility.
@@thefoxlife3431 my first fox had a kirban on it for over 6 years and never gave me an issue, so when my 97gt needed one i went kirban again. Ive luckily never had a issue, but i can definitely see the appeal of moving the gauge. I also understand that almost ALL parts these days seem to be luck of draw.
Bad, but Good?? You're right, Aeromotive should make it known that their regulator bleeds the pressure after a time. But,,, I would say the bleeding of the pressure is a good thing. I towed in a friend's Durango w the 5.7 hemi, it still ran, but it was missing badly and had a big oil leak. We learned that when he started it, it grunted, then spun over and started w the bad miss. And the oil leak suddenly appeared. Turns out, a leaky injector filled a cylinder w gas and it hydro-locked and broke a connecting rod, the rod poked a perfect rectangular hole in the side of the oil pan, letting the gasoline saturated oil run out. All because the OE regulator held the pressure after shutdown. Two years later, a Chevy w a 6.0 gas did the same thing. Being the Chevy was the second vehicle to do that, I lifted the fuel rail, cycled the key, and we watched gas drip out of the injector from the cylinder w the broken rod. Ever since, I've thought that there should be a way to bleed off the fuel pressure after shutdown. Then, just know that you need to turn the key to "on" for 2 seconds before cranking. Or keep your fuel injectors clean. Or both.
Aeromotive Frequently Asked Questions: EFI Regulators 6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator. Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero. Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator? No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off. They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running. OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards. At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off. If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off. If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or add a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit. aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-efi-regulators/
PS nice hood! I know these cars like the back of my hand if you have another question post it on this comment and I’m pretty sure I will have the answer. I just found your channel this was the first video of yours I saw and four minutes before the end you had me literally panicking at everything you were doing for absolutely nothing yes your initial regulator was fornicated but everything else was mind-boggling to me. Don’t forget to check your relay under the driver seat it runs your fuel pump it is the cause of a lot of hot no start issues including one I had in my own car and several people I know
@@thefoxlife3431 if it is still doing it you might need new (used, they are cheap) computer but be aware the computers for an automatic car and the computers for a standard car are different
@600wheel ,,, I'm replacing my pump on my '91 Mark vii , because I only have 10 pounds pressure . New filter , the regulator is not leaking gas to vacuum . The system holds 10 pounds overnight . Sooo , I'm still wondering if I also need a regulator ,,, ?
@@rolandtamaccio3285 when you turn off your key the system is not supposed to hold any pressure it always leaks back the only time you have to worry about your pressure is when the vehicle is running. Even when you first turn on your key and you hear the pump come on for a moment the pressure will come up but as soon as the pump turns off it slowly starts to bleed back. This is something I’ve seen a lot of people struggle with on RUclips until they realize that it’s just supposed to do that, there’s no reason for it to hold pressure when your vehicle isn’t running on the initial pump run when you first turn on your key primed the system but it stops running if you don’t start the vehicle so you don’t ruin your pump. You only need an initial prime and your car is usually started before it has a chance to bleed back. I’ve got a supercharger on mine (fully built 335) and I used to run nitrous I’ve completely rebuilt the motor. I’ve got aftermarket pump 255 walbro, aftermarket regulator BBK, I still run the stock computer with a piggy back Diablo sport, and mine still does it. If pumps not running the pressure bleeds back. Don’t let it bother you and spend your money on a gauge because you want to keep an eye on your fuel pressure when it’s running, if it gets low then start to address it. The biggest mistake younger guys or new people to the hobby will do is think something is wrong and usually replace the most expensive part and then they find out it was the simplest cheapest piece that needed to be replaced or in actuality there was nothing wrong and this is a perfect example of the nothing being wrong but everybody panics when they discovered it problem that’s not a problem
Man I still think the TFI module is getting heat soak and causing the issue, I know you tried 2 different ones and 1 was a Motocraft but I would try a new Motocraft one just to be sure. I know they aren't cheap but this can be very frustrating, I dealt with a similar issue where my car was running rich as hell, like fouled the plugs within 10 mins rich, and after replacing injectors and mass air and other stuff which helped, it turned out to be a wire had pulled loose from the o2 sensor, smh, fixed it and it runs a million times better. I still have a problem where the car will be running fine and all of a sudden the afr drops to 10-11 and it idle surges for about 20 seconds and then it goes back to normal, cant figure it out
Right there with ya. I’m still pissed at myself for not calling them before I changed the fuel pump and pulled the injectors. I thought I knew all about fuel systems🤣
All that time swapping parts, and 30sec on google would have answered your residual pressure question. Not making fun, but it's the truth. Aftermarket regs rarely need this, since most cars have wild fuel flow to prime in 1/3 the time and are powered by a switch rather than ecu.
So this is a long story. I was trying to figure out an issue with the car not wanting to start when it’s hot. I found the FPR was bad and leaking fuel into the intake vacuum line. That led me to discover the pressure loss when tue car shut off. That was something I’ve heard of before because I always had experience with them keeping pressure for quite a long time. I spent a lot of time and money because I didn’t know that an aeromotive FPR didn’t work the same way. I am still chasing my original issue but the fuel system isn’t the issue.
Glad you finally found the issue. Was hoping you'd start and cycle the car to see the project finished. Great content 🎉🎉
Thanks man. This was a frustrating project for sure.
My wife retired school teacher still driving het New Edge 99 V-6 70.000.00. She purchased it new off the showroom floor TX Ford!can’t get out of it,garage kept it entire life,Alcopolco Blueprint/white stripes-looks nice when I wax it!!she still teaching,short commute,I dream about doing heavy mods on it,she won’t here it👍
I recently changed my FPR to a Z1 Motorsports FPR and am not gettting drain down issues with fuel. I do however see a slight decrease in pressure over time and it’s probably due to the junk aeromotive fuel pump. I had no issues with my walbro when I swapped it. I think it’s safe to say aeromotive makes junk parts. The Z1 FPR has exactly the same ports as the aeromotive but actually holds pressure and was confirmed by their engineering team via email. It is sold as a 350z 370z regulator but would drop right in for those of you having issues with aeromotive junk. Never again.
Wow! Great info, thanks for sharing.
It doesn’t matter if it holds pressure after you turn the pump off because it’s only necessary to have pressure when you turn the pump on.
Good information to know. Hopefully everything works out for you.
Thank you. It’s almost exactly where ai want it. Just the not start issue left to figure out.
@thefoxlife3431 nice man ! I like what you have done to the car looking good. I will get there one day.
Your fuel pump anti drain back valve is what controls the fuel pressure holding after the pumps off and how long. Theres been a few post on the old forums recently asking about it. Pretty sure you had a post on Stangnet about it or some else with a similar issue. I had cars that held it for awhile and some that dropped as soon as it keys off. Used all kinds of pumps and regulators over the years with stock rails. Usually bought a kirban if the car didn't all ready have an adjustable or aftermarket fuel rails on it when I bought it.
I have an aeromotive regulator as well. It drops to zero right away. When it was new it would hold for some time. Called and they told
Me same thing. I think it’s a poor design. Might try a cheapo eBay unit and see if it holds when key off.
I went through a lot of time, money, and pain over this just to find out it’s normal. I think they need a note in the box that specifies it will not work like a factory regulator.
I wish I had found this earlier but you really should check out your fuel pressure relay it’s underneath your driver seat when it gets hot it will cut out and the car won’t start until it really cools off again it will run for maybe about five minutes and then just shut off. Your fuel pressure shouldn’t stay Max when you turn the key off it will always bleed back. The mustang in my avatar I finished building a 10 years ago it’s got a forged 331 all Edelbrock top end of Paxton Novi 2000 supercharger Walbro fuel pump BBK regulator and it’s always done that it’s supposed to do that when you turn the key on you will hear your fuel pump kick on and that is charging the system. To reiterate when you shut the key off the fuel will always bleed back there’s no reason for her to stay charged some guys will put a check valve in so that doesn’t happen but they are usually running a mechanical high pressure fuel pump and the cranking takes too long to start the car but for your normal system they all bleed back that’s why when you turn on the key on the fuel pump turns on for a few seconds and recharge the system if your fuel pump is not doing that that’s where you should start looking at for your problem but not at the pump at what is telling the pump come on, the computer or the relay underneath your driver seat. I told you about my car so you would know I have a good idea what I’m talking about I built the whole thing and I have 35 years of working on cars under my belt stop worrying about your fuel pressure bleeding off when you shut off the key it’s got nothing to do with your problem System recharges every time you turn the key on, that’s not your problem
Edit I said this before the end of the video by the time you got to the regulator close to the end of your video I was starting to panic at the amount of money you spent but if you’re having a hot no start problem just check your fuel pump relay that’s why I left this entire message.
I can’t hold pressure under the free flow do I need to have it hooked to the regulator to get pressure? My system is supposed to hold 60 psi
If you've got the stock style starter then I'd guarantee that's your starting issues. I went through the same thing with my foxbody. Thought it was because the battery was in the trunk and because of not enough grounds and all this other stuff. Then i put in an sve high torque mini starter and wrapped it with some heat wrap stuff and haven't had an issue. The big factory style starter sits basically touching the block and gets super hot.
I much prefer the Kirban fpr over aeromotive. I got the el cheapo adjustable fpr from Lmr on mine but it only goes up to 45psi. If i outgrow it ill be going kirban.
I had the Kirban adjustable FPR on it initially. It lasted about three years but it did start leaking from the vacuum port. I how fly only bought the aeromotive because I wanted the fuel pressure moved from the fuel line up to the FTP for easier visibility.
@@thefoxlife3431 my first fox had a kirban on it for over 6 years and never gave me an issue, so when my 97gt needed one i went kirban again. Ive luckily never had a issue, but i can definitely see the appeal of moving the gauge.
I also understand that almost ALL parts these days seem to be luck of draw.
Bad, but Good?? You're right, Aeromotive should make it known that their regulator bleeds the pressure after a time. But,,, I would say the bleeding of the pressure is a good thing. I towed in a friend's Durango w the 5.7 hemi, it still ran, but it was missing badly and had a big oil leak. We learned that when he started it, it grunted, then spun over and started w the bad miss. And the oil leak suddenly appeared. Turns out, a leaky injector filled a cylinder w gas and it hydro-locked and broke a connecting rod, the rod poked a perfect rectangular hole in the side of the oil pan, letting the gasoline saturated oil run out. All because the OE regulator held the pressure after shutdown. Two years later, a Chevy w a 6.0 gas did the same thing. Being the Chevy was the second vehicle to do that, I lifted the fuel rail, cycled the key, and we watched gas drip out of the injector from the cylinder w the broken rod. Ever since, I've thought that there should be a way to bleed off the fuel pressure after shutdown. Then, just know that you need to turn the key to "on" for 2 seconds before cranking. Or keep your fuel injectors clean. Or both.
Aeromotive Frequently Asked Questions: EFI Regulators
6.) I’ve installed my new Aeromotive bypass regulator. Fuel pressure seems to adjust fine and holds great when the engine is running, but when I shut the engine off, pressure drops quickly to zero. Shouldn’t the pressure hold like it did with a stock regulator?
No, Aeromotive EFI bypass regulators may not seal perfectly when the pump is off. They are engineered for the highest possible performance when the engine is running. OEM regulators must hold pressure for 30-minutes after shut-down to pass EPA emissions standards. At Aeromotive we know our customers priority is to have the best possible flow and pressure control when the engine is running and we don’t compromise this standard to force the regulator to seal when the engine is off. If extended crank or hard-start becomes a concern, first allow the pump to run and prime as long as possible after turning the key to the run position, then start cranking the engine, just before the pump shuts off. If the priming cycle is too short to allow the engine to start easily with this approach, extend the priming cycle in the ECU if programmable, or add a timer board or momentary button to the fuel pump run circuit.
aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-efi-regulators/
With the gage , how long before you have 30 pounds ( nominal ) , once you turn the key with the Aeromotive ,,, ?
Hell yeah brother
We produce LED replacements for your Mustang. Can we arrange to have our product shipped to you for doing a product review?
PS nice hood! I know these cars like the back of my hand if you have another question post it on this comment and I’m pretty sure I will have the answer. I just found your channel this was the first video of yours I saw and four minutes before the end you had me literally panicking at everything you were doing for absolutely nothing yes your initial regulator was fornicated but everything else was mind-boggling to me. Don’t forget to check your relay under the driver seat it runs your fuel pump it is the cause of a lot of hot no start issues including one I had in my own car and several people I know
I did replace the fuel relay and the EEC relay next to the computer. I already had a spare so it was an easy thing to try. No luck though.
@@thefoxlife3431 with everything you have changed so you still have the problem?
@@thefoxlife3431 if it is still doing it you might need new (used, they are cheap) computer but be aware the computers for an automatic car and the computers for a standard car are different
@600wheel ,,, I'm replacing my pump on my '91 Mark vii , because I only have 10 pounds pressure . New filter , the regulator is not leaking gas to vacuum . The system holds 10 pounds overnight . Sooo , I'm still wondering if I also need a regulator ,,, ?
@@rolandtamaccio3285 when you turn off your key the system is not supposed to hold any pressure it always leaks back the only time you have to worry about your pressure is when the vehicle is running. Even when you first turn on your key and you hear the pump come on for a moment the pressure will come up but as soon as the pump turns off it slowly starts to bleed back. This is something I’ve seen a lot of people struggle with on RUclips until they realize that it’s just supposed to do that, there’s no reason for it to hold pressure when your vehicle isn’t running on the initial pump run when you first turn on your key primed the system but it stops running if you don’t start the vehicle so you don’t ruin your pump. You only need an initial prime and your car is usually started before it has a chance to bleed back. I’ve got a supercharger on mine (fully built 335) and I used to run nitrous I’ve completely rebuilt the motor. I’ve got aftermarket pump 255 walbro, aftermarket regulator BBK, I still run the stock computer with a piggy back Diablo sport, and mine still does it. If pumps not running the pressure bleeds back. Don’t let it bother you and spend your money on a gauge because you want to keep an eye on your fuel pressure when it’s running, if it gets low then start to address it. The biggest mistake younger guys or new people to the hobby will do is think something is wrong and usually replace the most expensive part and then they find out it was the simplest cheapest piece that needed to be replaced or in actuality there was nothing wrong and this is a perfect example of the nothing being wrong but everybody panics when they discovered it problem that’s not a problem
Man I still think the TFI module is getting heat soak and causing the issue, I know you tried 2 different ones and 1 was a Motocraft but I would try a new Motocraft one just to be sure. I know they aren't cheap but this can be very frustrating, I dealt with a similar issue where my car was running rich as hell, like fouled the plugs within 10 mins rich, and after replacing injectors and mass air and other stuff which helped, it turned out to be a wire had pulled loose from the o2 sensor, smh, fixed it and it runs a million times better. I still have a problem where the car will be running fine and all of a sudden the afr drops to 10-11 and it idle surges for about 20 seconds and then it goes back to normal, cant figure it out
@600wheel , please see my question in one of the 9 replies below ,,, !
there ia a check valve that is bad
Some of those regulators dont have check valves in them so you have to look into that first before you go chasing your tail……..ask me how i know!!!😂😂😂
Right there with ya. I’m still pissed at myself for not calling them before I changed the fuel pump and pulled the injectors. I thought I knew all about fuel systems🤣
All that time swapping parts, and 30sec on google would have answered your residual pressure question. Not making fun, but it's the truth. Aftermarket regs rarely need this, since most cars have wild fuel flow to prime in 1/3 the time and are powered by a switch rather than ecu.
Great video but what was the problem because it was still doing the same thing after regulator replacement
So this is a long story. I was trying to figure out an issue with the car not wanting to start when it’s hot. I found the FPR was bad and leaking fuel into the intake vacuum line. That led me to discover the pressure loss when tue car shut off. That was something I’ve heard of before because I always had experience with them keeping pressure for quite a long time. I spent a lot of time and money because I didn’t know that an aeromotive FPR didn’t work the same way. I am still chasing my original issue but the fuel system isn’t the issue.