Hi everyone, If you watch the video till the end I'm sure you're gonna notice that I repeated the mistake with +/- lines. I'm sure most of you whom are gonna do this mod will know, but just to be clear, The Bosch battery has the + positive line run through the MOSFETs in the BMS, so it's the + line that you need to cut and run through the Schottky.(as well as outside as a bypass) The - negative line is still run through the pcb of the BMS, but it shares the same pad with the output. And as it was pointed out to me by a subscriber, you always connect the Schottky on the positive line, which is correct since the Schottky allows conventional current to pass where it's pointing, so it wouldn't work the other way. Also you shouldn't connect the 2 batteries WHEN the BYPASS IS CONNECTED and the extender is of higher voltage than the BOSCH. ONLY WHEN BOTH ARE FULLY CHARGED, i.e. of the same voltage. Thanks.
200V diode has too high voltage drop and power loss, 45V version is much better with lower drop and loss. There will never be 45V difference between two 42V batteries.
Thanks for sharing this method. For a person who is an expert with electricals, they could just charge both batteries to 42.00V before connecting them. Then there would be no rapid flow of intensity of current between them. As the batteries are slowly discharged by the motor, they would stay balanced. But your information about connecting before the BMS is very valuable. Thanks again for sharing this detailed tutorial.
Many many thanks for this. I am not an electrician but I studied physics and think the same as you. Too many companies are "locking" their clients in to their products instead of allowing the clients the freedom to choose. I have just bought a second hand E-Bike and did the sane research. I will now have the confidence to invest in a battery that I want and not a battery that the E-bike company push on me for Eur 900 !!!!! 36V 15aH - 509wH THANKYOU.
@01titicu it goes without saying that you void your warranty if you still have it and need to have some understanding of what you're doing and accept the risks. Also a branded battery might be eligible for replacement or insurance claims but that doesn't guarantee you'll never have a fault or fire with it.
@@theelectronage ye but still the risk are higher, and you really must know what to do, i understand that this video is for profesional only, but to many details make a noob trying to replace hes battery thinking is a smartass, the bms from market are lower quality then originals....higher risk, not really higher repay....the cell price is high anyway
Great video, thanks! I would have 4 remarks/questions though: 1) You mentioned the Schottky diode had a voltage drop of 0.2V (measured on your voltmeter). However this measurement doesn't reflect the voltage drop that occurs in real life condition when the diode is actually carrying some current (e.g. 10A or 20A). The diode specification mentions a maximum forward voltage drop of about 0.7V, typical of Schottky diodes. Therefore the losses are likely much larger than what you suggest. I'm quite surprised this is not causing heating issue with the diode enclosed in the battery housing without heatsink because it is likely to dissipate something like 15W when both batteries provide 10A (max load). Actually, you could use 2 "ideal diodes" instead of a Schottky because these have a much lower voltage drop (
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Regarding the first note, yes I may have gotten the diode working conditions wrong, but everything's in the datasheet. I was kind of worried about the heat dissipation,and was contemplating doubling the diodes just to make sure, but after I opened it, believe me I've done more than 1k km by the time I opened it to check in real world conditions ( temps from 0c°-35c° and hills that sometimes go for 10km) but everything's okay. Of course don't take my word for it. This isn't for everyone anyway, and the more you know the safer you are.
On your second note, Yes indeed you are right and I missed it. The second battery could be able to discharge into the bosch, however, I always only connect them when fully charged, and after that even when you put the bypass in place you can be sure they're at the same voltage. But good catch. Thank you.
Concerning your 3rd point, Yes the BMS does measure the amps going through it, but at least this 2nd gen motor I have isn't that smart, because with the extender it still gives you a battery reading and range(based on 500wh) but doesn't know that something is wrong after you consume 500wh, it just sees the battery voltage runs down very slowly. I don't know about the new so called Bosch smart system.
And for the last point you got it. I did try first by connecting them outside the Battery, but it throws an error from time to time, then I would have to disconnect, shut/Start the bike, connect them again and you're good for a while. I didn't care for it.
Hi, I haven't had the opportunity to do this test, but I do work with ebikes so when I encounter gen3 or 5 display I will test it on my gen2 and let you know.
Hello, and thanks you for the explanation, very clear and detailed, I have a couple of questions: 1.- I see you are using same Bosch tube battery to put as an extender, could it be done with other battery (not Bosch) of course 36V but 360 Wh 2.- the diode is not getting too hot? in order to know where I can store. Than you in advance
Hi, You do need an original bosch battery for the bike to work, but yes you can use any capacity you want. The diode doesn't get much hot otherwise it would have left a mark in my battery. Good luck.
My question is if is needed 2 original Bosch batteries to do this hack or you can have the original mount in the bike and additional non Bosch battery mount in parallel, if not, why?
Thank you very much for the video and explanations!. I have a doubt: What happend if the 2nd battery is fully charged and the Bosch battery is medium charged? Bosch BMS would see differents voltages througth balancing wires and througth end wires. Would it be a problem? Is the system so smart? Thanks again to share your project!
Hi, First of all you shouldn't connect the two batteries with the bypass connected( if the 2nd battery is more charged than the bosch .) Otherwise it isn't an issue. We connected to the bosch before the bms and we didn't touch the bosch balancing wires, so the bosch bms isn't aware of the 2nd battery, only the bosch.
in your scheme you connect two batteries in parallel, the negatives of the batteries are connected to the anode of the diode, the cathode goes to the bms.
I suppose you can, but you need to do some math so that the lifepo voltage(number of cells) matches the working voltage of the normal li-ion (29or30v-42v).
Hello! Do you know if it possible to convert this into a "dumb" battery just use the the positive and negative without the data cables? Or is the bms going to complain when no data lines are conncted?(I want to use this as a powerbank for another project and i have a bosch battery lying around)
Hi, The bosch battery won't turn on unless connected to the bike both power and data. But if your goal is to use it as a power bank there's a go around, you buy a buck converter ideally with under voltage protection, set it to the right values but you have to connect it directly to the battery +/- tabs inside the battery. And you can charge your battery normally with a bosch charger, and you have the output voltage you want. Good luck.
Question: I wish to install a complete new downtube battery onto my E-Bike and discard my Bosch Battery because it is too old. I must use the Bosch BMS from the Bosch battery on my new battery to go to the controller display on the bike is this correct ? I simply add the Old Bosch BMS to the new battery ? Thanks again.
Yes that's it. Just locate and label the balance wires to connect them correctly unto the new 10s battery. Basically as it was connected you do the same. I believe after you just connect the charger to activate the bms. I haven't done this myself but seen others do it.
@@chrisluff7088 Seems so frikin' straight forward that I'm surprised the people and bike shops who sell E-Bikes and batteries don't actually use this as a selling point ...
@user-oe1mb9hu9i It happens that I work in a bikeshop, it has to do first of all with insurance and warranty purposes, but also to avoid any dishonest customers that will link anything that goes bad with the ebike to the modification I make on the battery. Good luck with your battery.
@@theelectronage Health and Safety and warranties have crippled the world. Education is badly in need to help people UNDERSTAND, instead of that we produce "lemmings" who do what they are told. Thanks for the help. Cheers.
Hi, It's for simplicity and convenience and safety. This way I don't have to check the 2 batteries each time i need to connect them, or carry a multimeter everywhere.
My battery is 960 WH and I'm wondering with an inverter how i might use it as a back up battery for my CPAP machine for camping trips that i don't take my bike on. That might make a useful video as well. Thanks for your information here.
Thanks for this! After using the system are you sure that there are no errors being detected? I guess the BMS might theoretically be able to tell that the (combined) battery has increased capacity. Also, would it be possible to use a 3way switch instead of a diode, and only discharge one battery at a time? (still connecting behind the BMS) I think this might be even safer because the diode could theoretically short circuit and cause a rapid equalising current (and potential fire).
I guess theoretically the bms could detect the increase in capacity, thankfully it doesn’t. You can definitely use a three way switch but I’m not sure if it would work ( imagine the bosch battery is discharged, so the voltage of the cells would be low to the point the bms will shut off even if the second battery is full) I’m afraid it’s both batteries or just the bosch alone. Just an educated guess. Could be wrong. Maybe try it and find out. As for your concern about the short, if the diode fails, it wouldn’t actually be a short(think about it, the loop is not closed), and so if it fails it could: 1 do nothing. Or 2 the full battery will charge the low. (Which will only happen if you connect the two with a vast difference in voltage, which you shouldn’t do anyway even with the diode, although you can because the full battery will get used first then they will be used together) I actually trust this system so much that sometimes i leave both batteries on the bike connected for over a week. But always do your due diligence. Also an advantage of using the 2 batteries in tandem is that you will discharge them in a longer time, meaning that you extend the lifespan of both batteries in comparison to using each alone. Enjoy.
Thanks for your reply @@theelectronage. I think that if you used the switch, then when using the second battery the Bosch BMS would only see the voltage from that pack and not its own cell pack. However it has the balancing wires connected to its own cells. So there could be a problem if it notices a difference between the total of the individual cells (via the balance wires) and the total voltage of the second battery. But if it doesn't complain about that it should work (and the display would give you the SOC for your second pack I guess). You are right that discharging both batteries at the same time should give less wear and tear. Maybe if safety was a concern you could add some sort of fuses to the system? To be honest there are many discussions on various forums about connecting packs in parallel, and diodes are often mentioned. This situation isn't any different, except for the very useful information that the Bosch BMS isn't smart enough to detect what you have done. So thanks again!
@user-xk4zh4em1q well i think that when you switch to the 2nd battery the SOC you’ll see will probably be for the bosch with the balancing wires, and as long as it’s good you’ll be good. Hopefully. I think adding a fuse will not serve for much, because when 2 batteries are in parallel the amps from each is divided by 2 if they have similar capacity . And adding a fuse after the diode well if the ESC calls for 40amps max, you can add a 60A fuse just for peace of mind, you don’t want a 40A fuse because it’ll leave you stranded somewhere. Check out Kirchhoff’s laws on current, very good to know.
Szia! Én úgy hallottam hogy a bms számolja a kivett energiát és lekapcsol.Ha megduplázódik a kapacitás akkor is csak 500wh enged elhasználni. Nálad ez hogyan működik?Amikor az ebike azt jelzi hogy lemerült az akku akkor valóban lemerült?
Another question: if i buy a really worn out Power Tube with almost no capacity left but with a working BMS on Ebay and connect it to a brand new 1300 Wh Lithium Ione battery, would this cause problems? would the Bosch run out of juice before the secondary battery and would this cause problems?
Hi, I suppose it would work, but the only as long as the bosch battery keeps up. Because for example the worn out battery could have lets say 36v so still good for a while, but as soon as any of the 10 cells(weak one) gets below 3v it will shut down to protect itself, even if the 2nd battery has juice. So you have 2 options: you can simply take the bosch bms and put it on the new battery( you can keep the battery shell and run wires to it including balance wires). Or you can first fix the powertube, in other words recell it with new li-ions while adding the schottky diode for use with the 2nd battery. I suppose this 2nd option is a lot of work and needs a bit of care when working on batteries. Either way it's up to you and what suits your specific use. Good luck.
Thanks! Yeah you are right, i could simply build a new battery pack but just with a original Bosch BMS I will be looking for a cheap powertube in my Area, prices can only get better the as time passes
@@theelectronage please document it on video again as soon as you try to repurpose it. I am still worried that the BMS locks itself as soon as there is no voltage for a moment.
@lukasschmidt4902 yes I'm planning to. I also wanted to make sure for myself as you said that the bms doesn't lock, even though I'm quite sure it works according to a French RUclips vid I've seen.
Interesting. Can you please suggest the other way around? (Using bosch 750Wh battery pack in another non bosch setup). As I understand, they have some tampering protection. Thank you in advance.
Hi, I haven’t tried it yet, but seen someone do it on RUclips. You need to wake the bms by injecting 5v or something (I don’t quite remember) Of course that’s only if you want to keep the battery with original bms, because if you open the battery a 10s battery is like any other 10s, so either you bypass the bms(which isn’t recommended) or install your own bms and that’s that. Hope you succeed in this.
@@theelectronage Are there any aftermarket packs available? Im after an empty case that i can just load my own cells into since i have an abundant supply of the things. Surprised there is nothing on aliexpress
@@nzoomed hi, There are empty battery cases for sale on AliExpress and similar sites. If you mean bosch empty case, I don't think so, except for used ones. Good luck.
Could you take the BMS out and build your own bigger battery with it? I'm trying to do something similar to a cargo bike, so I was thinking of one big battery. I might switch my order to the 500 batteries instead of the new 725s to avoid anti-tampering tech.
Hi, Yes good thinking about the smart system. So there's a lot of myths concerning the bosch bms and how it goes dead if you unplug it from the battery. I haven't tested this myself but have seen other RUclipsrs do it, and it makes sense there's no such thing. I didn't do it myself because I have the space for the powertube anyway but it did cross my mind, and is exactly what I would have done in your case, but only if you can leave the battery and bike inside a garage or something, or really make them water proof.
I wasn't very clear, the BMS thing is an urban myth. Not true at all. As long as the BMS has nothing wrong with it you can plug and unplug to your satisfaction.
Thanks for the reply! I should look for those videos, I'm kind of curious about how big of a pack I could get away with and what specs the pack would need besides 36v to work with the BMS.@@theelectronage
I am entering if their scooters are the same... 🤔 I just got a Bosch rear wheel for my Gio. Find out soon. Any tips? Bosch does not even give the wattage... It's 48 volts ⚡️
Hi, Sorry mate I didn't even know bosch made wheel hub drive. The voltage of the motor doesn't really matter, but the controller voltage should be matched.
I there anyway to charge you Bosch Battery from a 3party charger using the XC90 connector. I tried it will briefly charge for 1-2 second while the bike is powering down.
HELLO , i have a giant bike wich my battery was stolen "Energypack 300 " i found a recycled battery from another bike but ive connected the postive and the negative to the battery "leaving the bleu wire " and it works fine for couple of seconds then the assist shutdown and the motor stops any ideas how i can bypass this or any other information regarding the bleu signal wire thank you
Hi, I'm not sure what's the problem. I'm actually working on my bike right now, and looking at the connection to the motor, it has +/- and CAN HIGH & CAN LOW. As well as 2 other small cables connected to the +.(the battery has +/- & CAN H/L) If everything is connected well and the problem persists, I'd suspect the battery bms has a fault, because if it was a connection problem the bike won't turn on, and definitely wouldn't assist even a little. I'm working on running the bosch motor with a vesc, and it's promising so far. I'll publish a video about it. Good luck.
I've got 2 500 Watts Power Tubes with broken BMS. In both accus is the original BMS removed and replaced for a Chinese S10. Because replacement Bosch BMS PCB;s are not for sale... Both accus working great with the Chinese S10. What do i need for connecting these accus on my Bosch bike? Because there is missing a 2.5 Volt?
Sadly the bms is an absolute must, like you said bosch doesn’t sell it. On the other hand you can try and find a dead battery with a good bms and combine the two, it doesn’t have to be a powertube either the powerpack or powerrack or whatever’s bms should work. The voltage of a 36v battery varies between 29v and up to 42v.
the Schottky diode must be placed on the positive side. You give all the examples with the negative side. At the end of the video, you again give an example with the diode placed on the negative side
Hi, I know, most batteries pass the negative line through the BMS. I tested the batteries for two months before making the video. I made the video to give a comprehensive explanation and not just a step by step, and I'm glad you got it. I apologize for repeating the mistake, but it wouldn't have changed much because once you open the battery you need to locate the line that goes through the BMS and run it through the Schottky. Have a good one.
Right you are sir. I had to think about it after your message this morning . The diode allows conventional current to pass, so it wouldn't work the other way. Thanks.
I think its possible. Basically if you connect a bosch bms to a 10sXp battery pack it should work as long as you connect all the balance wires as they were originally. Good luck.
@overexposurevideo check for yourself to be sure. But I think even the newer bosch smart system uses 36v meaning 10s batteries. And if you're talking about the powerrack i believe it's called yes it's 36v.
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته. I just made an error in the explanation. The diode is to be connected on the + line( for our application it's always the 2+ into the diode and the output is the MAIN +. if the BMS was on the - line we still connect the diode the same way on + and the negative of the second battery is connected before the BMS). Good luck.
I want to say a BIG thank you for making the effort and sharing what you did and how it worked for you. It is too far left field for me, but I absolutely appreciate it and the concept and totally agree with the underlying basis of why you had to research and dig and find out how to do this to get the maximum out of your ebike investment. Big big effort and dedication! Don't let the negative comments pull you down, what you have done, plus what you have willingly shared is amazing and very impressive and added to the world.
Messing and making alterations to power packs isn't recommended. If I need extra range then I would purchase another battery and swap over when needed.
I see only one problem if its connected how can oud charge your Bosch battery bicose the diode Will be in reverse mode and can not take any charge, sorry I die not see you talked about that
Hi, Sorry I haven't filmed the modification of the battery. I don't recommend people with no electrical/electricity experience modifying their ebike batteries in their home. Risk of fire is always present and some care and caution are needed. I'm sure you can find someone who can do the work if you show them tbe video and explain what you need. Good luck.
Meh ... A shottky diode is not basically 2 diodes (@17:50) but a special type of diode. A shottky diode is a diode with a low forward voltage (as you correctly measured later on). You will indeed see them a lot in this dual configuration because it is used a lot in voltage/power-combining applications as you used it for. Also a "back current of up to 200V" (@18:39) is not correct. As you can read from the datasheet, this is the "peak reverse voltage" which means this is the absolute maximum voltage that the diode is able to withstand in reverse mode. More than that will result in a current flow and damage the diode. The symbol you use with 2 wires on the anode side of the diode (@24:40 ) is incorrect. As you see @20:20, the correct way of drawing this is as 2 separate diodes. But the principle shown is correct and I like that you stress the fact that you should never ever just wires 2 batteries in parallel. What I do wonder is what will happen to the whole system when the batteries are indeed very different in % of charge (i.e. different voltages). What if the Bosch battery is almost empty and the extra battery is completely full? Will the Bosch system notice that the Bosch BMS reports a lower battery voltage than the actual voltage seen on the ESC ??? I actually don't know but I do like to figure this out. I just bought a 2nd (original Bosch) battery to connect to my bike. By the way, I think you should do a video on the battery you added. That looks like a nice build with proper insulation on top of the cells to prevent any short circuit when loose parts get in there. Looks good
Hi, Yes indeed mistakes were made. I don't pretend to be a specialist on this subject but as far as the whole system goes it's working as described. Have a good one.
@@theelectronage If you're sure that the time the fets need to turn off is less than the time needed to blow up the fets with the new, higher short circuit current as the IR of the packs is way lower now.
Hi, I would be glad to make your battery, but I live in Paris France and if you're not local there's nothing I could do since we can't ship batteries. Good luck.
Hi, Well yes, if you open it and connect directly to the battery pack inside, but you need to monitor voltage so as to not overdischarge it. I've seen someone on yt who used an arduino or similar to give the required signal needed for the battery to wake up. Otherwise the battery will not work outside of the bike.
My pleasure. Don't get me wrong I have a lot of bosch products because they make good products, but like every capitalist company their practices could always be improved.
@shaunhall6834 you're better off learning and building your own. I always think about it like the early water vapor vehicles, not anyone can start them safely. While batteries can be dangerous, when you always think in terms of voltage, amps, temperatures and so on, you'll be much safer than your casual user. Enjoy.
Well, I did it as explained and when the ebike is running for a few minutes it gives me error 500 and I have to turn it off and on again and it cannot be turned on with the two batteries connected either. I have to disconnect the second one to turn it on and then connect it.
Hi, Sorry to hear that. I had the same experience where I have to disconnect the2nd battery and turn the bike back on(it was error 550 though), but it happened when i connected the 2 batteries in parallel outside of the bike. You did disassemble the battery and connect before the BMS? Also what gen motor do you have?
Hi, This isn't for everyone. My reason is not to buy 2 extra batteries that I'll need to carry around on the rack otherwise why have them. and as it happened I found a very good 1kwh battery for dirt cheap, so 50 bucks instead of north of 1k euros for the same combined capacity of 2 boschs. And I carry it on my top tube so my rack is free for other stuff. And of course the advantage range of 150km give or take. I don't recommend this if you're not a bit familiar with electricity. Good luck.
Why dont you get a bosch dual battery system ir powermore instead of these dangerous crazy plans????? completely unnecesary and will not work properly with the battery management and range control..there is a reason they are expensive...because they are excellent quality. You should never recommend this just because you are too greedy to be safe. If your bike explodes or stops working you will nit let us know but hou will deserve it for being so stupid
Hi everyone,
If you watch the video till the end I'm sure you're gonna notice that I repeated the mistake with +/- lines.
I'm sure most of you whom are gonna do this mod will know, but just to be clear,
The Bosch battery has the + positive line run through the MOSFETs in the BMS, so it's the + line that you need to cut and run through the Schottky.(as well as outside as a bypass)
The - negative line is still run through the pcb of the BMS, but it shares the same pad with the output.
And as it was pointed out to me by a subscriber, you always connect the Schottky on the positive line, which is correct since the Schottky allows conventional current to pass where it's pointing, so it wouldn't work the other way.
Also you shouldn't connect the 2 batteries WHEN the BYPASS IS CONNECTED and the extender is of higher voltage than the BOSCH. ONLY WHEN BOTH ARE FULLY CHARGED, i.e. of the same voltage.
Thanks.
200V diode has too high voltage drop and power loss, 45V version is much better with lower drop and loss. There will never be 45V difference between two 42V batteries.
@lubomirnovak9628 thank you.
I misinterpreted the numbers on the datasheet anyway. The datasheet has all the relevant values.
Thanks for sharing this method.
For a person who is an expert with electricals, they could just charge both batteries to 42.00V before connecting them. Then there would be no rapid flow of intensity of current between them. As the batteries are slowly discharged by the motor, they would stay balanced.
But your information about connecting before the BMS is very valuable. Thanks again for sharing this detailed tutorial.
Thank you sir, my pleasure.
Hope I didn't make too many mistakes, and got the point across.
Many many thanks for this. I am not an electrician but I studied physics and think the same as you.
Too many companies are "locking" their clients in to their products instead of allowing the clients the freedom to choose.
I have just bought a second hand E-Bike and did the sane research.
I will now have the confidence to invest in a battery that I want and not a battery that the E-bike company push on me for Eur 900 !!!!! 36V 15aH - 509wH
THANKYOU.
Hello friend,
My pleasure. I also finally bought a vesc and used it on my bosch bike, and I'm glad to say it works. I'll post a video soon.
Good luck
yep, but they lock you to buy bisch battery, cause they can guaranty for that, there wil be no explosion😂
@01titicu it goes without saying that you void your warranty if you still have it and need to have some understanding of what you're doing and accept the risks.
Also a branded battery might be eligible for replacement or insurance claims but that doesn't guarantee you'll never have a fault or fire with it.
@@theelectronage ye but still the risk are higher, and you really must know what to do, i understand that this video is for profesional only, but to many details make a noob trying to replace hes battery thinking is a smartass, the bms from market are lower quality then originals....higher risk, not really higher repay....the cell price is high anyway
A very detailed explanation of how the Bosch battery system works, thanks D.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks! I would have 4 remarks/questions though:
1) You mentioned the Schottky diode had a voltage drop of 0.2V (measured on your voltmeter). However this measurement doesn't reflect the voltage drop that occurs in real life condition when the diode is actually carrying some current (e.g. 10A or 20A). The diode specification mentions a maximum forward voltage drop of about 0.7V, typical of Schottky diodes. Therefore the losses are likely much larger than what you suggest. I'm quite surprised this is not causing heating issue with the diode enclosed in the battery housing without heatsink because it is likely to dissipate something like 15W when both batteries provide 10A (max load). Actually, you could use 2 "ideal diodes" instead of a Schottky because these have a much lower voltage drop (
Hi, sorry for the late reply.
Regarding the first note, yes I may have gotten the diode working conditions wrong, but everything's in the datasheet.
I was kind of worried about the heat dissipation,and was contemplating doubling the diodes just to make sure, but after I opened it, believe me I've done more than 1k km by the time I opened it to check in real world conditions ( temps from 0c°-35c° and hills that sometimes go for 10km) but everything's okay.
Of course don't take my word for it. This isn't for everyone anyway, and the more you know the safer you are.
On your second note,
Yes indeed you are right and I missed it.
The second battery could be able to discharge into the bosch, however, I always only connect them when fully charged, and after that even when you put the bypass in place you can be sure they're at the same voltage.
But good catch. Thank you.
Concerning your 3rd point,
Yes the BMS does measure the amps going through it, but at least this 2nd gen motor I have isn't that smart, because with the extender it still gives you a battery reading and range(based on 500wh) but doesn't know that something is wrong after you consume 500wh, it just sees the battery voltage runs down very slowly.
I don't know about the new so called Bosch smart system.
And for the last point you got it. I did try first by connecting them outside the Battery, but it throws an error from time to time, then I would have to disconnect, shut/Start the bike, connect them again and you're good for a while. I didn't care for it.
Excellent! Love it. I agree, they should not try to make all batteries proprietary.
One thing no one can make proprietary is the laws of physics.
Enjoy your rides.
Too bad, it's happening just like electronic computers keep changing charging/connecting ports.
I found a real Bosch battery 400wh new for 350 euros in the Netherlands! Bought it and it works perfectly as a second battery!
Plenty of 500s around 200 second hand in Marktplaats as well.
Enjoyed this video. Can you do a video on replacing a bosch gen 2 kiox to the much larger visible gen3 or gen 5 kiox? Thanks
Hi,
I haven't had the opportunity to do this test, but I do work with ebikes so when I encounter gen3 or 5 display I will test it on my gen2 and let you know.
Hello, and thanks you for the explanation, very clear and detailed, I have a couple of questions:
1.- I see you are using same Bosch tube battery to put as an extender, could it be done with other battery (not Bosch) of course 36V but 360 Wh
2.- the diode is not getting too hot? in order to know where I can store.
Than you in advance
Hi,
You do need an original bosch battery for the bike to work, but yes you can use any capacity you want.
The diode doesn't get much hot otherwise it would have left a mark in my battery.
Good luck.
My question is if is needed 2 original Bosch batteries to do this hack or you can have the original mount in the bike and additional non Bosch battery mount in parallel, if not, why?
@hectorlopezgonzalez1868 only one original battery is needed.
Thank you very much for the video and explanations!. I have a doubt: What happend if the 2nd battery is fully charged and the Bosch battery is medium charged? Bosch BMS would see differents voltages througth balancing wires and througth end wires. Would it be a problem? Is the system so smart?
Thanks again to share your project!
Hi,
First of all you shouldn't connect the two batteries with the bypass connected( if the 2nd battery is more charged than the bosch .) Otherwise it isn't an issue.
We connected to the bosch before the bms and we didn't touch the bosch balancing wires, so the bosch bms isn't aware of the 2nd battery, only the bosch.
in your scheme you connect two batteries in parallel, the negatives of the batteries are connected to the anode of the diode, the cathode goes to the bms.
Yes, everything holds by changing the sins.
I apologize for the mistake, it might shock you to know I'm not an expert. But I'm trying:).
Very nice, thanks!
What about LiFePo4 batteries? could they also be added this way? they have a slightly different voltage
I suppose you can, but you need to do some math so that the lifepo voltage(number of cells) matches the working voltage of the normal li-ion (29or30v-42v).
Hello!
Do you know if it possible to convert this into a "dumb" battery just use the the positive and negative without the data cables? Or is the bms going to complain when no data lines are conncted?(I want to use this as a powerbank for another project and i have a bosch battery lying around)
Hi,
The bosch battery won't turn on unless connected to the bike both power and data.
But if your goal is to use it as a power bank there's a go around, you buy a buck converter ideally with under voltage protection, set it to the right values but you have to connect it directly to the battery +/- tabs inside the battery. And you can charge your battery normally with a bosch charger, and you have the output voltage you want.
Good luck.
Very good idea thanks alot! I will try that
I wouldn't use anything other than a Bosch battery. I value my bike.
Question: I wish to install a complete new downtube battery onto my E-Bike and discard my Bosch Battery because it is too old.
I must use the Bosch BMS from the Bosch battery on my new battery to go to the controller display on the bike is this correct ?
I simply add the Old Bosch BMS to the new battery ?
Thanks again.
Yes that's it. Just locate and label the balance wires to connect them correctly unto the new 10s battery. Basically as it was connected you do the same. I believe after you just connect the charger to activate the bms.
I haven't done this myself but seen others do it.
great question thats exactly what i want to know
@@chrisluff7088 Seems so frikin' straight forward that I'm surprised the people and bike shops who sell E-Bikes and batteries don't actually use this as a selling point ...
@user-oe1mb9hu9i It happens that I work in a bikeshop, it has to do first of all with insurance and warranty purposes, but also to avoid any dishonest customers that will link anything that goes bad with the ebike to the modification I make on the battery.
Good luck with your battery.
@@theelectronage Health and Safety and warranties have crippled the world.
Education is badly in need to help people UNDERSTAND, instead of that we produce "lemmings" who do what they are told.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers.
Thanks for this video. I don't see the need for a diode! Making both batteries permanently in parallel would work. They are in balance.
Hi,
It's for simplicity and convenience and safety.
This way I don't have to check the 2 batteries each time i need to connect them, or carry a multimeter everywhere.
Hello! I have a question. How to make the Bosch smart system battery work on a NON-smart system Bosch engine?
Hi,
Sadly I'm not familiar with the smart system yet, so I don't think I can be of use.
Good luck.
My battery is 960 WH and I'm wondering with an inverter how i might use it as a back up battery for my CPAP machine for camping trips that i don't take my bike on.
That might make a useful video as well.
Thanks for your information here.
Sure.
Just a buck converter will do the job if you only need 5V or 19V for laptop.
Thanks for this! After using the system are you sure that there are no errors being detected? I guess the BMS might theoretically be able to tell that the (combined) battery has increased capacity.
Also, would it be possible to use a 3way switch instead of a diode, and only discharge one battery at a time? (still connecting behind the BMS) I think this might be even safer because the diode could theoretically short circuit and cause a rapid equalising current (and potential fire).
I guess theoretically the bms could detect the increase in capacity, thankfully it doesn’t.
You can definitely use a three way switch but I’m not sure if it would work ( imagine the bosch battery is discharged, so the voltage of the cells would be low to the point the bms will shut off even if the second battery is full)
I’m afraid it’s both batteries or just the bosch alone. Just an educated guess. Could be wrong. Maybe try it and find out.
As for your concern about the short, if the diode fails, it wouldn’t actually be a short(think about it, the loop is not closed), and so if it fails it could: 1 do nothing.
Or 2 the full battery will charge the low.
(Which will only happen if you connect the two with a vast difference in voltage, which you shouldn’t do anyway even with the diode, although you can because the full battery will get used first then they will be used together)
I actually trust this system so much that sometimes i leave both batteries on the bike connected for over a week.
But always do your due diligence.
Also an advantage of using the 2 batteries in tandem is that you will discharge them in a longer time, meaning that you extend the lifespan of both batteries in comparison to using each alone.
Enjoy.
Thanks for your reply @@theelectronage. I think that if you used the switch, then when using the second battery the Bosch BMS would only see the voltage from that pack and not its own cell pack. However it has the balancing wires connected to its own cells. So there could be a problem if it notices a difference between the total of the individual cells (via the balance wires) and the total voltage of the second battery. But if it doesn't complain about that it should work (and the display would give you the SOC for your second pack I guess).
You are right that discharging both batteries at the same time should give less wear and tear. Maybe if safety was a concern you could add some sort of fuses to the system?
To be honest there are many discussions on various forums about connecting packs in parallel, and diodes are often mentioned. This situation isn't any different, except for the very useful information that the Bosch BMS isn't smart enough to detect what you have done. So thanks again!
@user-xk4zh4em1q well i think that when you switch to the 2nd battery the SOC you’ll see will probably be for the bosch with the balancing wires, and as long as it’s good you’ll be good. Hopefully.
I think adding a fuse will not serve for much, because when 2 batteries are in parallel the amps from each is divided by 2 if they have similar capacity . And adding a fuse after the diode well if the ESC calls for 40amps max, you can add a 60A fuse just for peace of mind, you don’t want a 40A fuse because it’ll leave you stranded somewhere.
Check out Kirchhoff’s laws on current, very good to know.
Szia!
Én úgy hallottam hogy a bms számolja a kivett energiát és lekapcsol.Ha megduplázódik a kapacitás akkor is csak 500wh enged elhasználni.
Nálad ez hogyan működik?Amikor az ebike azt jelzi hogy lemerült az akku akkor valóban lemerült?
Sorry I don't speak your language.
Comeback with a translation.
Another question: if i buy a really worn out Power Tube with almost no capacity left but with a working BMS on Ebay and connect it to a brand new 1300 Wh Lithium Ione battery, would this cause problems? would the Bosch run out of juice before the secondary battery and would this cause problems?
Hi,
I suppose it would work, but the only as long as the bosch battery keeps up. Because for example the worn out battery could have lets say 36v so still good for a while, but as soon as any of the 10 cells(weak one) gets below 3v it will shut down to protect itself, even if the 2nd battery has juice.
So you have 2 options: you can simply take the bosch bms and put it on the new battery( you can keep the battery shell and run wires to it including balance wires).
Or you can first fix the powertube, in other words recell it with new li-ions while adding the schottky diode for use with the 2nd battery. I suppose this 2nd option is a lot of work and needs a bit of care when working on batteries.
Either way it's up to you and what suits your specific use.
Good luck.
Thanks! Yeah you are right, i could simply build a new battery pack but just with a original Bosch BMS
I will be looking for a cheap powertube in my Area, prices can only get better the as time passes
Good luck. Also I think the older powerrack can also work. I have one with bad cells but I haven't gotten around to harvesting the bms yet.
@@theelectronage please document it on video again as soon as you try to repurpose it. I am still worried that the BMS locks itself as soon as there is no voltage for a moment.
@lukasschmidt4902 yes I'm planning to. I also wanted to make sure for myself as you said that the bms doesn't lock, even though I'm quite sure it works according to a French RUclips vid I've seen.
Interesting. Can you please suggest the other way around? (Using bosch 750Wh battery pack in another non bosch setup). As I understand, they have some tampering protection. Thank you in advance.
Hi,
I haven’t tried it yet, but seen someone do it on RUclips. You need to wake the bms by injecting 5v or something (I don’t quite remember)
Of course that’s only if you want to keep the battery with original bms, because if you open the battery a 10s battery is like any other 10s, so either you bypass the bms(which isn’t recommended) or install your own bms and that’s that.
Hope you succeed in this.
@@theelectronage Are there any aftermarket packs available? Im after an empty case that i can just load my own cells into since i have an abundant supply of the things. Surprised there is nothing on aliexpress
@@nzoomed hi,
There are empty battery cases for sale on AliExpress and similar sites.
If you mean bosch empty case, I don't think so, except for used ones.
Good luck.
Muy bien vidio se entiende todo gracias...
No pueden tener el monopolio de todo
Gracias amigo
Could you take the BMS out and build your own bigger battery with it?
I'm trying to do something similar to a cargo bike, so I was thinking of one big battery. I might switch my order to the 500 batteries instead of the new 725s to avoid anti-tampering tech.
Hi,
Yes good thinking about the smart system.
So there's a lot of myths concerning the bosch bms and how it goes dead if you unplug it from the battery. I haven't tested this myself but have seen other RUclipsrs do it, and it makes sense there's no such thing.
I didn't do it myself because I have the space for the powertube anyway but it did cross my mind, and is exactly what I would have done in your case, but only if you can leave the battery and bike inside a garage or something, or really make them water proof.
I wasn't very clear, the BMS thing is an urban myth. Not true at all. As long as the BMS has nothing wrong with it you can plug and unplug to your satisfaction.
Thanks for the reply!
I should look for those videos, I'm kind of curious about how big of a pack I could get away with and what specs the pack would need besides 36v to work with the BMS.@@theelectronage
ruclips.net/video/jRkLBh6oztg/видео.html You can swap the BMS!
I am entering if their scooters are the same... 🤔
I just got a Bosch rear wheel for my Gio. Find out soon.
Any tips? Bosch does not even give the wattage... It's 48 volts ⚡️
Hi,
Sorry mate I didn't even know bosch made wheel hub drive.
The voltage of the motor doesn't really matter, but the controller voltage should be matched.
I there anyway to charge you Bosch Battery from a 3party charger using the XC90 connector. I tried it will briefly charge for 1-2 second while the bike is powering down.
Yes there's a way.
You need to provide 5v on one pin of the battery. I don't remember which one you have to test the original charger.
HELLO , i have a giant bike wich my battery was stolen "Energypack 300 " i found a recycled battery from another bike but ive connected the postive and the negative to the battery "leaving the bleu wire " and it works fine for couple of seconds then the assist shutdown and the motor stops any ideas how i can bypass this or any other information regarding the bleu signal wire thank you
Hi,
I'm not sure what's the problem.
I'm actually working on my bike right now, and looking at the connection to the motor, it has +/- and CAN HIGH & CAN LOW. As well as 2 other small cables connected to the +.(the battery has +/- & CAN H/L)
If everything is connected well and the problem persists, I'd suspect the battery bms has a fault, because if it was a connection problem the bike won't turn on, and definitely wouldn't assist even a little.
I'm working on running the bosch motor with a vesc, and it's promising so far. I'll publish a video about it.
Good luck.
I've got 2 500 Watts Power Tubes with broken BMS. In both accus is the original BMS removed and replaced for a Chinese S10. Because replacement Bosch BMS PCB;s are not for sale... Both accus working great with the Chinese S10. What do i need for connecting these accus on my Bosch bike? Because there is missing a 2.5 Volt?
Sadly the bms is an absolute must, like you said bosch doesn’t sell it.
On the other hand you can try and find a dead battery with a good bms and combine the two, it doesn’t have to be a powertube either the powerpack or powerrack or whatever’s bms should work.
The voltage of a 36v battery varies between 29v and up to 42v.
the Schottky diode must be placed on the positive side. You give all the examples with the negative side. At the end of the video, you again give an example with the diode placed on the negative side
Hi,
I know, most batteries pass the negative line through the BMS.
I tested the batteries for two months before making the video. I made the video to give a comprehensive explanation and not just a step by step, and I'm glad you got it.
I apologize for repeating the mistake, but it wouldn't have changed much because once you open the battery you need to locate the line that goes through the BMS and run it through the Schottky.
Have a good one.
@@theelectronage I think it doesn't matter bms which side controls plus or minus,the diode must always be on the positive side.
Right you are sir.
I had to think about it after your message this morning . The diode allows conventional current to pass, so it wouldn't work the other way.
Thanks.
One more thing woudn't it be possible to use a newer bosch powerpack and convert it to a bosch classic powerpack that is hard to find
I think its possible. Basically if you connect a bosch bms to a 10sXp battery pack it should work as long as you connect all the balance wires as they were originally.
Good luck.
but is the output from the classic battery and the newer round one the same? Then all I have to do is change the case@@theelectronage
@overexposurevideo check for yourself to be sure. But I think even the newer bosch smart system uses 36v meaning 10s batteries. And if you're talking about the powerrack i believe it's called yes it's 36v.
yes same system almost same housing , just different connector . But maybe the bms has another canbus protocol@@theelectronage
I can connect the diode in + or obligatory in -?
السلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته.
I just made an error in the explanation. The diode is to be connected on the + line( for our application it's always the 2+ into the diode and the output is the MAIN +. if the BMS was on the - line we still connect the diode the same way on + and the negative of the second battery is connected before the BMS).
Good luck.
@@theelectronage thank you so much 😊
I want to say a BIG thank you for making the effort and sharing what you did and how it worked for you.
It is too far left field for me, but I absolutely appreciate it and the concept and totally agree with the underlying basis of why you had to research and dig and find out how to do this to get the maximum out of your ebike investment. Big big effort and dedication!
Don't let the negative comments pull you down, what you have done, plus what you have willingly shared is amazing and very impressive and added to the world.
Hi,
Thank you for your kind words.
Have a good one.
Messing and making alterations to power packs isn't recommended. If I need extra range then I would purchase another battery and swap over when needed.
Yes, of course. This isn't for everyone anyway.
I see only one problem if its connected how can oud charge your Bosch battery bicose the diode Will be in reverse mode and can not take any charge, sorry I die not see you talked about that
Hi,
I did mention that.
That's why there's a bypass.
is there another video before this? how you wired the batterie step bby step. please du that for me step by step. t
hx
Hi,
Sorry I haven't filmed the modification of the battery. I don't recommend people with no electrical/electricity experience modifying their ebike batteries in their home. Risk of fire is always present and some care and caution are needed.
I'm sure you can find someone who can do the work if you show them tbe video and explain what you need.
Good luck.
Meh ... A shottky diode is not basically 2 diodes (@17:50) but a special type of diode. A shottky diode is a diode with a low forward voltage (as you correctly measured later on). You will indeed see them a lot in this dual configuration because it is used a lot in voltage/power-combining applications as you used it for. Also a "back current of up to 200V" (@18:39) is not correct. As you can read from the datasheet, this is the "peak reverse voltage" which means this is the absolute maximum voltage that the diode is able to withstand in reverse mode. More than that will result in a current flow and damage the diode. The symbol you use with 2 wires on the anode side of the diode (@24:40 ) is incorrect. As you see @20:20, the correct way of drawing this is as 2 separate diodes.
But the principle shown is correct and I like that you stress the fact that you should never ever just wires 2 batteries in parallel.
What I do wonder is what will happen to the whole system when the batteries are indeed very different in % of charge (i.e. different voltages). What if the Bosch battery is almost empty and the extra battery is completely full? Will the Bosch system notice that the Bosch BMS reports a lower battery voltage than the actual voltage seen on the ESC ???
I actually don't know but I do like to figure this out. I just bought a 2nd (original Bosch) battery to connect to my bike.
By the way, I think you should do a video on the battery you added. That looks like a nice build with proper insulation on top of the cells to prevent any short circuit when loose parts get in there. Looks good
Hi,
Yes indeed mistakes were made. I don't pretend to be a specialist on this subject but as far as the whole system goes it's working as described.
Have a good one.
Good 👍
No fuses?
No need. The bosch bms has a fuse.
@@theelectronage Does it? It has a Shunt based fet cutoff, but no real fuse.
@Beeeeeeeeeee right. it has the same purpose. Doesn't it?
@@theelectronage If you're sure that the time the fets need to turn off is less than the time needed to blow up the fets with the new, higher short circuit current as the IR of the packs is way lower now.
where are you from? are you doing battery(for money ofc)? can you make my battery😮
Hi,
I would be glad to make your battery, but I live in Paris France and if you're not local there's nothing I could do since we can't ship batteries.
Good luck.
@@theelectronage you cant ship in Europe battery?
can u run any ebike with a bosch battery?
Hi,
Well yes, if you open it and connect directly to the battery pack inside, but you need to monitor voltage so as to not overdischarge it.
I've seen someone on yt who used an arduino or similar to give the required signal needed for the battery to wake up.
Otherwise the battery will not work outside of the bike.
@@theelectronage thank you very much for a quick answer
Thanks for this in-depth video. I'll pass on buying anything from Bosch now.
My pleasure.
Don't get me wrong I have a lot of bosch products because they make good products, but like every capitalist company their practices could always be improved.
@@theelectronage I'm about to build my first ebike and I don't want to get a propitiatory system.
@shaunhall6834 you're better off learning and building your own.
I always think about it like the early water vapor vehicles, not anyone can start them safely.
While batteries can be dangerous, when you always think in terms of voltage, amps, temperatures and so on, you'll be much safer than your casual user.
Enjoy.
@@theelectronage I like the learning part the best. This is why I appreciate people like you sharing knowledge.
Good man.
And thanks, knowledge is free. Thank God.
Misleading title. You cannot run your Bosch bike on any battery if you still need the entire original battery installed.
Tis the next best thing.
You can use a vesc in order to use any battery but it won't be bosch stock then.
Well, I did it as explained and when the ebike is running for a few minutes it gives me error 500 and I have to turn it off and on again and it cannot be turned on with the two batteries connected either. I have to disconnect the second one to turn it on and then connect it.
Hi,
Sorry to hear that. I had the same experience where I have to disconnect the2nd battery and turn the bike back on(it was error 550 though), but it happened when i connected the 2 batteries in parallel outside of the bike.
You did disassemble the battery and connect before the BMS?
Also what gen motor do you have?
This is not a solution for a bosch battery thats bad you will allways need a good bosch so why should you make it
Hi,
This isn't for everyone.
My reason is not to buy 2 extra batteries that I'll need to carry around on the rack otherwise why have them. and as it happened I found a very good 1kwh battery for dirt cheap, so 50 bucks instead of north of 1k euros for the same combined capacity of 2 boschs.
And I carry it on my top tube so my rack is free for other stuff.
And of course the advantage range of 150km give or take.
I don't recommend this if you're not a bit familiar with electricity.
Good luck.
INSURERS TAKE NOTE. When someone fucks with these batteries they no longer meet industry certifications
THANK YOU. good luck with your insurance business and industry specifications.
Hello dear sir that's ok to so far to me thank then my friend 😊😅
Please don't support proprietary devices
The word "hack "in the title should be a red flag for most .
Then you should go to every "hack" titled video on YT and give em a piece of you. I've had enough for one day.
Why dont you get a bosch dual battery system ir powermore instead of these dangerous crazy plans????? completely unnecesary and will not work properly with the battery management and range control..there is a reason they are expensive...because they are excellent quality. You should never recommend this just because you are too greedy to be safe. If your bike explodes or stops working you will nit let us know but hou will deserve it for being so stupid
It is not for you. You need to be at least a neanderthal to get it, judging from your profile picture you're not there yet.
@@theelectronage I think even a neanderthal would know better than to do this hahaha