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Thanks . The best oil to use on these little mechanisms i found is this special very fine oil for watchs. Have a good one.

It's an 18650 lithium-ion cell, the replacement one is about 2600 mAh.

@@theelectronage Много благодаря!

Hi, I've made a video about running a bosch motor with a vesc, in it I also showed the battery I use. With a vesc I did run the motor on a 48v but I didn't like it because the cadence I have to keep is much too high (I like to always put some work in), but it was fun though because I got up to 53kph as a top speed instead of the 45+/- kph with 36v. Have a good one.

Hi, Very happy to hear your experience and that you still use your decks. These ancient obsolete devices for some are the best technology came up with for a long time. The magic is still alive at least for me. Have a good one. Take care.

Ok. J'avais essayé ca en premier mais j'avais des erreurs. Bon à savoir.

Question: couper l alimentation après le bms bosch et brancher une batterie chinoise... en laissant le can bosch actif. Dès chances que cela fonctionne ? (Communication avec le powertube mais puissance prise dans la batterie externe) Mes schottky chauffent beaucoup malgré le dissipateur. Une solution autre ?

​@@theelectronage vous avez essayé l'interface bms+capteur de température avec fausse information de tension de cellule branché en sortie de batterie chinoise ?

@folcovhrs concernant la question, possible. J'en sais rien. A essayer. J'ai pas le problème de chaleur malgré que j'ai utilisé 1 schottky et avec le speedbox. Je sais qu'il existe des composants fake, mais encore j'ai pris celui que j'ai utilisé sur Aliexpress.

0.6v×10A=6w... comment ne peut il pas chauffer ?

Hi, No I can't. I only have bad experiences with Panasonic Walkmans. Good luck.

Good for you mate.

Good to know. You connected them in parallel after BMS?

Hi, Sadly I don't know. But I ve read somewhere that increasing the led/laser power slightly it solves this problem. But I haven't tried it myself so I can't confirm. Good luck.

Hi, The symptoms seem to me the same as when it needs a belt change. But I could be wrong. Have you changed the belt recently.

No need. The bosch bms has a fuse.

@@theelectronage Does it? It has a Shunt based fet cutoff, but no real fuse.

@Beeeeeeeeeee right. it has the same purpose. Doesn't it?

@@theelectronage If you're sure that the time the fets need to turn off is less than the time needed to blow up the fets with the new, higher short circuit current as the IR of the packs is way lower now.

Hi, Check out my other video about running it with a vesc. Your bosch controller inside the motor is probably dead, and it could be a number of things. Good luck .

@@theelectronage welke video juist?

The last one I posted.

Hi, I haven't had the opportunity to do this test, but I do work with ebikes so when I encounter gen3 or 5 display I will test it on my gen2 and let you know.

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. Life fets busy. As for the amperage, its no problem at all, the most important thing is the voltage and the polarity. The device is gonna use as much current as it needs no more. It would be a problem if the amperage wasn't enough. Good luck.

@@theelectronage muchas gracias por tomarse el tiempo en responder mi duda excelente contenido. Saludos desde México.

@raulordonezgarcia gracias amigo.

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. Every device is different, but in general you start with the power supply, then try and inject the right voltage to the battery contacts, then if nothing you need to check inside with a multimeter and try to follow the voltage as best you can to maybe isolate the problem. It could be a broken resistor or capacitor, or some corrosion damage..etc. Sorry this isn't much help, but in principle everything is fixable. Good luck.

Hi, That's exactly what I ended up doing, using a vesc. I've done a video about it.

​@@theelectronagecan I get a link to this video on replacing the controller with a 3 phase for the Bosch mid drive.

Hi, Sadly I'm not familiar with the smart system yet, so I don't think I can be of use. Good luck.

Hi, I also learned that if you don't use your device from time to time, you'll need to repeat the operation in some 2 years.

Sold a while ago

Hi, It could be a number of thing, maybe the power adapter doesn't work, if not try injecting the right voltage through the battery terminals, if not you have to diagnose the pcb, and so on. But no guarantees. Good luck.

Mostly on aliexpress. I have a video on belts with all the info of the belts I buy.

@@theelectronageThanks, wasn’t familiar with aliexpress. Nice video too.

Thanks. Good to know.

Nice. 60v must be nice, even though I tried 48v on my bike and what i found is that the pedaling cadence is a bit high for my liking, and 36v is best/is what the motor & gearing was designed for. for a throttle it is okay but you'll have a problem when using the torque sensor I think.(you have to pedal very fast to reach max speed) Let me know how it works out. Good luck.

@theelectronage I connect some xiaomi 36v battery and connect torque sensor and looks like it works but for test it need to stop raining outside 😪 but now I need to find out how make adct2 as thumb throttle 😆

Nicely done. Enjoy. And let me know about what sampling frequency you end up using. From the forum EndlessSphere where I've seen someone try it, he wrote he used 20+/- hz or so.

Hi, So sorry to hear that. I do have a d6c that has the same problem. I changed a certain chip(i forget the name cx9*** or somethinglike that) that's supposed to be responsible for tape speed. So I bought one on ebay. But after the repair it was still playing at high speed. So I never got around to checking it again. The problem occurs as far as I know when you plug in a 6v adapter with inverse polarity from what the device requires, these particular models use the infamous "6v center negative ". Maybe check the adapter with a multimeter just to confirm. I hope you can find some help on YT or other forums, because I was planning to make a repair video for it but don't count on me, it's gonna be a while. Please let me know if you fix it. Good luck.

@@theelectronage thnx for your reply, I still did not fix it

Hi, Sorry I haven't filmed the modification of the battery. I don't recommend people with no electrical/electricity experience modifying their ebike batteries in their home. Risk of fire is always present and some care and caution are needed. I'm sure you can find someone who can do the work if you show them tbe video and explain what you need. Good luck.

Ok, good to know. About the mechanical parts maybe you can find some shop that manufactures small parts. I know that small plastic gears are sold for hub motors so maybe with alot more searching on the internet you can find them for this one. Good luck.

@@theelectronage It look like parts of the internal bearing what i found inside one of my engines, all bearings should be standard. I only need to find way to take out that big cog wheel. I recommend to get some sort of chain guard or anything that block tiny gap between motor and front cog wheel. If your chain fall out of front cog wheel, it is immediately stuck in that gap, scratching aluminum engine cover (yes, chain fit inside this gap) and it is very difficult to get it out on the road - whole bike propelling system is seized. If that happen and you are able to fix the bike, do not shift to 3-4 largest gears on the derailleur, chain will fall out again. Pedal home and fix derailleur, there is something wrong with it if chain keep falling out of front cog wheel.

@petrberanek4230 thanks for the tip, i see what you mean. It didn't happen to me yet.

That's what I was going for. You have a great day.

Where is your video review? Smh

Hi, The original cable for this Walkman goes for 100 bucks or more on ebay. On the other hand I have seen a usb mod for the cradle on YT if you do have one. Good luck.

It is not for you. You need to be at least a neanderthal to get it, judging from your profile picture you're not there yet.

@@theelectronage I think even a neanderthal would know better than to do this hahaha

Hi, First of all you shouldn't connect the two batteries with the bypass connected( if the 2nd battery is more charged than the bosch .) Otherwise it isn't an issue. We connected to the bosch before the bms and we didn't touch the bosch balancing wires, so the bosch bms isn't aware of the 2nd battery, only the bosch.

Nice. If everything goes right your grand children's grand children will have a good working d6c with parts to spare.

Forgot about it already :)

Hi, First try and clean the inside of the headphones port with a mini file or something similar. Soldering is also doable if that's the problem, just use flux and clean with alcohol after. Good luck.

It's possible! I think the problem is that the glue that holds the cable of the display contacts and the contacts of the control board has simply dried out from time and it needs to be peeled off, wipe the contacts and glue again

Hi, how's it going? Sorry I don't have this discman anymore. Good luck with the repair.

It makes sense but I couldn't tell you. As you saw on the video there are signs of life on the display, but having no prior experience with lcds I didn't want to add to the problem. Please comment if you were able to fix it. Have a good one.

Yes there's a way. You need to provide 5v on one pin of the battery. I don't remember which one you have to test the original charger.

For sure. I'll take some time to respond though, but I will. Good luck.

@@theelectronage Great thanks i'll try to be succinct: The assist on pedaling doesn't work The walk mode doesn't work too > might not be the torque sensor as suspected? Battery provides 36V > ok Display > ok light turn on and off, walk mode displayed when activated... Speed sensor > ok speed is displayed. No sensors on the brakes that can prevent the assist Inside no visible damage on the cables or components (capacitors not expanded) Tested conductivity between 3 phases > ok i'm a bit out of idea of what test to do next. Thanks again !

@@mrkioui3004 Hi, So there's not much to go on. The only thing out of place that I can think of is the walkassist logo that shows up, normally you need to hold the button. So it could be a bad display(or just button) but these displays are "unopenable" in an attempt to make them water proof. But i doubt that you'll find a display but you can try with the manufacturer, but again this is to find or eliminate the problem so.. It's also weird that it doesn't show an error code which favors the display walk assist button problem . If you can't find a display, i encourage you to buy a VESC, which is way better than your average Chinese ESC. My last video shows how I implemented it with my bosch ebike. The advantage you have I think is that you can keep the bike as is so that you'll have a speedometer and light control, but again you need to try to see if it'll work normally after disconnecting the phases and hall wire. Contact me if you get somewhere( without the vesc). Good luck.

@@theelectronage Thank for the answer! the walkassist only show when i push the button. but the display has some scratch on it so it might be a good idea to test another one. I'll check your video about the vesc. Thanks again !