Customizing a Pelican Case with Our Laser Cutter!
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2017
- Sean works on a quick project to improve our camera lens storage using the shop's Universal Laser Systems laser cutter. This custom Pelican Case storage topper helps label our gear and protect the breakout foam from wearing down over use!
Shot and edited by Gunther Kirsch
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Tested is:
Adam Savage / donttrythis
Norman Chan / nchan
Simone Giertz / simonegiertz
Joey Fameli / joeyfameli
Kishore Hari / sciencequiche
Frank Ippolito / frankippolito
Sean Charlesworth / cworthdynamics
Jeremy Williams / jerware
Gunther Kirsch
Ryan Kiser
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This is a great solution. The acrylic plate will transfer any shock force from the outside casing all the way into the lenses very nicely.
Your sarcasm game is strong
Yes indeed, just drop the case in the back of a car and have all your lenses get smacked out of wack. I'd just go with a thin foam top cover.
exactly. they should have just cut another piece of foam.
Hey like the discrption says "Sean works on a quick project to improve our camera lens storage" But they have no clue what project to do with it ,
And that lasershit is probably sponsored by U.L.S , and beeing pushed by them to put another video out to demonstrate their laser.
But they can't do wood they did that last time with the puzlepiece ,so why don't you show your loyal audience how well our UNIVERSAL LASER SYSTEMSS cuts acrylic.HaHa. Then you can use or play with it for another month longer.
it will also make it more difficult to grab the lenses.
Not only does it look like it'll be harder to take the lenses out now, I have to think the reason Pelican doesnt do this is because you're introducing a hard rigid surface to the things you're trying to protect. It might look better (questionable) but I'll take function over form every day of the week.
Do i need to tell the story of the absolute idiot who made his lense pelican lined with baltic ply? No. I think we know what happened there, and what would happen here. Facepalm doesn't even begin to cover this.
Isn't the acrylic going to transfer shock forces to the lenses, the exact thing you don't want to happen and the reason you use foam in the first place?
My point EXACTLY.
I use spray rubber coating to reinforce the pluck-n-pull in my Pelican cases. It creates a skin that not only prevents tearing but it bonds the layers together to make the entire core one piece. I have one case I have been using for 4 years with a set of 12v Dewalt drills and other test equipment that still looks like the day I put it together.
ya i figured just glue the the foam together
Great project Tested! I've done something similar I removed my seat belt and instead replaced them with orange ribbon.
There's a reason hard acrylic isn't used in the first place , this is a unthought out solution to the problem .
Yeah, this is a bad idea. Everything will be harder to get out now, in addition to potentially transferring shock and scratching items when their added/removed.
Better solution for "peel" effect of a pelican case. Take that can of spray adhesive you have. Gently separate the foam around the holes you've already made and spritz a tiny bit in between the foam strips. It'll adhere together and resist peeling when pulling your gear out. Plus it wont scratch the crap out of your lenses when being rattled around in the cargo. I mean I get what they're doing here, but come on, at least put some padding around the edges of the acrylic holes.
Or just get foam cut by professionals that actually know what they're doing for a fraction of the cost of your lenses that you're trying to protect because if you've bought a Peli you might as well do it right in the first place.
That sounds like a good idea actually. I think I'll do that with mine.
Already researched a few videos that say the same thing. Not transporting lenses but rare bottle of bourbon and whiskey in my case.
Here is an idea, remove the lid and all the foam. This will make getting the lens out faster and you can store a lot more stuff.
I just build my cases with cement. Cement doesn't peel.
Exactly. Not only is cement peel resistant, it is also much denser than foam, thus ensuring better protection.
In addition to everyone pointing out the "shock transfer" there's another obvious problem: The foam in used because it's soft and pliable. The acrylic will scratch the finish on the lenses and chew up the elastomer rings every time they're are cycled in an out. Get some kaizen foam of the appropriate thickness!
Crazy idea - I'm glad those aren't my lenses because they won't last long now! This man is a buffoon!
Which will break first: a lens from hitting the the sides or the acrylic piece when you drop or twist the case.
and or ?
Yes
Yes, next up "poured in place concrete encapsulation." At least you won't loose the parts as all the shock carries through the case.
Dumb idea as many have already stated.
I would use fabric like the liner used in Tenba cases after gluing the top foam blocks to make it a bit more solid. Or they could have just used the divider case inserts made specifically for each model case.
In the old days they would glue a fabric over the foam further fitting and elimination of the tear out.
Wow! In order to avoid buying new foam, this "solution" almost guarantees the need to buy new lenses. That said, it appears most other comments reflect the same sentiment.
I love that this video isn't shot by Joey! I wonder if he knows you fucked his case up
Something for those lenses to rattle against in the soft foam case. You just ruined the whole idea of a soft padded case.
looks neat, here's the thing... your lenses will break. The only solution to this would be to cut each square 1/8inch larger on each side and fitting a padding on the surrounding hard edges... Which is basically the same as just having foam interior... so... maybe just don't do this lol.
Cleannnnn!
I'd love to see more videos starring Charles!
This is awesome! Don't have a laser cutter lol, but I might try to replicate this even with a little foam core just to stabilize things a bit. Tbh, I'd trust it to protect my stuff more than some hard acrylic.
Loved this video, more gear related storage / tips would be cool!
That's actually a very cool project!
Have fun taking out the lenses or smaller objects (lens pen or what not). You could have included some finger cutouts. And as John Arne said, there's a reason for the liner to be foam...
Not sure acrylic is the way to go-- but make sure to get some feedback from Joey. I think some finger relief is needed, either on the sides or the corners. Joey's a large lad and I think he's gonna need to stuff his fingers in there as is.
Exactly what I want to do at work next week (for a pressure calibrator). We have a big laser cutter so it should be easy enough.
Very cool. Great idea to make. Thank you for sharing your amazing video
I spray my pick and pluck with that cheap rubberized spray for fixing leaks... holds it all together pretty good.
the best way to keep pick and pluck in tact is to put a thin bead of hot glue around the perimeter of the hole and then spray the entire foam interior with Plasti-Dip.
I do this for a living.
This would look really cool, and retain the protection of the shock-absorbing foam, if you laser cut and placed a nice piece of leather on top instead of acrylic.
If my dad was still alive he would have loved doing stuff like this. Don't feel bad he would have been 92.
I make a lot of vector paths and I have a wayyy better way to make an illustrator layout.
Put a ruler on top of that case, take a photo from directly above it. As square as you can get it.
Then in illustrator, make a 1inch block, now expand that picture to make the 1inch on the ruler match with the vector 1inch. It is extremely accurate, it sounds like it wouldn't be but I've used this method with amazing results.
awesome customizing
Hmm.. And now every time you hit the pelican case hard on something there is a nice solid bit of plastic for your lenses to smash into and break..
This seems like a great improvement over the nice soft foam you had before.. well done! :)
I think you need to make the edges sit much further back from the foam edge and also make sure the foam is nicely glued around the edge of each foam cut out.
Looks nice though..
sweet! now i want a foam case for all my power tools!
Cardboard is what shoe boxes are made of. What you used is corrugated board.
I used to do this in the workshop when I was in the USAF
It would seem this video was thrown together quite quickly ... I mean normally i hope they approve and research their content in some manner before release. Obviously in his previous life they thought more about saving their foam from ripping by the hands of students rather than actually saving their equipment ! That case layout is going to break all your lenses focus distance accuracy and parfocal if it has it.
Cool! I just made my custom case with a Ridge case from HomeDepot, I took it all apart then used Kaizen foam inserts for the bottom and top portion of the case, but instead of acrylic, which I think is not the best way to go, I bought a sheet of felt and spray glue for the top layer, as a matter of fact, it was orange too (LOL) to match the two-tone (Black & Orange) theme of the case, then cut the foam and felt with a very sharp Exacto knife for near laser cut precision. ;-)
I would just use colored foam like this one:
instagram.com/p/BEbPr46Kg7w/?taken-by=skbcases
Outstanding!
who the heck calls it pluck-n-peal? team pick-n-pluck for life!
Use a couple coats of the spray Flex Seal. Its cheap and it keeps the squishy-ness of the foam but binds it all together with a harden layer.
Loved it!
You should have used that hardboard to make inserts to go in each hole when gluing; to pull out later; that would force the foam to line up better with the acrylic
I would have just glued down the cardboard instead of the acrylic. Less shock transfer, more forgiving when trying to pull stuff out, and cheaper. Or, I would have just sealed the top of the foam with some glue. Or maybe make the topper out of 1/8in. eva craft foam instead of the acrylic.
Or, pluck out the foam you want, then coat your foam in about 4 coats of plastidip. Bonds the pluck foam and will be much more resilient to breaking. You won't be able to see the precut lines afterwards, looking like solid foam
Interesting solution but was really hoping to see how the laser handled cutting the foam, and the layer depth before sheets need to be glued.
Very practical thanks for sharing! The only additional step I would take in this process would be to bevel the edges. Acrylic has very sharp edges when straight cut. I can see many people losing some skin off their knuckles. ;-)
Cheers,
Greg
How precise is the laser cutter when cutting foam? Does the heat from it melt the foam and make the cut bigger?
There seems to be some echo in the sound, suggest you look into that :)
uses plstidip it will to stop the foam from peeling then flip it
Sean, Norm - Check out Nanuk cases.
Went to read the comments to see if my 'but that acrylic is hard!' Thoughts were shared by others. Yes they are, terrible idea.
Would be really nice to cut out some foam with exactly the right dimension holes and with small slots in the circle for your fingers to dip down and grab the lens.
Yes maybe the laser cut material should have been cut smaller so that there was some distance around the items. A better way to do this is to create the pick and pluck grid in illustrator and count the number of grid holes and distance to the edge. Its very easy to do, create a cube and move it over and hit command d for duplicate when a grid has been made convert it to guides using Command 5 which makes guides out of objects.
nice... now we need a laser cut !!!!
Way to remind me that I don't have enough money to buy a laser cutter
I don't even have enough money for Pelican cases.
I don't even have money
I can't even
If you wanted to do this yourself, it would have been better to buy a non pick & peel foam and cut it with a heated wire setup. The plexiglass top was just stupid.
If you were going to laser cut the foam, would you just do a succession of identical layers and stack them, then top it with the acrylic like you did here?
Nah, the ideal solution would be a thick layer of upholstery foam with pockets cut into it- the acrylic topper is a bad idea and unnecessary since it will transfer shock directly to the lenses, hence why you will never see any commercial case with such a hard piece of plastic inside.
It's a sad day. Tested actually made a video I had to dislike. This may be a good idea for some application, but not to actually protect lenses. He even gave a better solution himself of using more rigid foam, but still went with acrylic.
So when you drop it and the acrylic shatters it will scratch up the lenses .... not the best choice .
Andrew Joy Anything inside a pelican case is pretty safe so the likelihood of that ever happening is super unlikely. Plus acrylic is plastic so, one not likely to shatter, and two it has a lower density hardness then glass so it most likely won't scratch the lenses. The glass on lenses is actually polished and coated to be quite sturdy, and lens caps exist so.....
You have never seen a bunch of techs and roadies throwing flight cases around , they can break anything :P
Andrew Joy I guess if there is a will there is a way lol, but Pelican cases are pretty sturdy. It's crazy the tortures people put them through with the gear being okay inside.
If all you need this for is to keep the corners together then why not laser cut squares that fit over the holes like a ring, holding the foam together? Like others have mentioned this is bad for shock absorption plus hard to fit properly. Personally I feel like some tape around the corners would give the same effect but what do I know, I'm not an engineer...
I need to laser engrave and cut 15 lb HDU Foam (Sign foam). I have a ULS 150w CO2 laser. I really need help on the settings. In the material database, there isn't an option for polyurethane foam. I could REALLY use some help.
Great tutorial, now I just need an expensive laser cutter.
what the font, "lens kit" is written in?
awesome!!
This was oddly satisfying
I would actually be interested in seeing the tips on cutting foam.
my foam cutting projects always get fubar =/
if the laser can cut foam why not get the solid foam inserts and cut that for all the lenses to go in instead?
what is the little alcohol topper thing at 3:47?
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT T-SHIT!! looks great :3
I've seen people use plasti dipp to stop that from happening...it needs to be sprayed on in multiple thin coats
Wow, these people are brutal! I liked it and thought it was cool.
That topper looks like it will prevent the foam from doing its job if the case is dropped, jarred around.
I prefer to cover my case with a topper of Self Adhesive Felt. Stops blocks moving, Plus I don't have A laser cutter. Still, If I did have one I would. Laser Are Cool...
So you used CAD? Cardboard Aided Design? :D
Where can i order one of these?
what was the music on the video? very funkeh!
Love the printing route! An almost free option is using plasti-dip to "seal" your pulled foam into shape. Once youve got your foam shaped like you want, spray a few coats of plasti-dip to set it in place. Its going to strengthen the foams edges and help keep those pluck and pull pieces bonded together
pettyrok plus you don't get the energy transfer from the acrylic which defeats the purpose of the foam anyway.
Perfect, put a band-aid over the problem.... tada... issue magically is gone... now to fix the issue of a hard band-aid that will bank against the lenses... hmm... another band-aid maybe?
Silicon hose around each cutout... Oh wait... you didn't leave enough room. Darn!!
ok, got a New Lende, can't wait to make a new hole for it in my case
wtf sean
A lot of people talking crap and I understand, if the stuff was a little lower it’d be fine. A lot of pros do this with their cases, I’ve seen this on many camera rentals. But doing it with a rubber or hard foam or something makes more sense to me
why not laser cut a solid block of foam? Or if not the entire block, do it in multiple layers.
Hard, rigid surfaces near fragile lenses. Yes. THAT, is exactly what we need...cue the facepalm compilation video.
Im going to try taking a photo and measurements and laying it out on top of the photo
How long ot actually cut?
why don't you just glue the pick and pull foam together?
you should have etched the labels. You can always cover them up later if you change it. At least then you only have a few cheesy labels.
and leds around the outer edge so that the etched areas light up
Great example of what NOT to do. Instead, use Plasti Dip. Shock forces as someone else said. Also, you will still get little bits of foam crap in your lenses. Also , “LensKit” ?? why not supply some info?
Wouldn't it be a better idea to put a sheet of thin fabric over the foam like (180 thread bed sheet cotton~ close to muslin/ calico ) and glue that to the top and the placements for the lenses, or some thin 2mm Eva foam
there's a reason it's foam, because anything hard can damage the lenses -this idea is going to cost Adam more in the long run then save him as the lenses will be damaged in transport -it's a fair idea just used very wrongly .
William Osman made a better laser cutter
(Adam if you see this please look him up on RUclips)
Where can I get that t-shirt?
Can you not just use the Super 74 to glue the pluck n peels together and save having to get a laser cutter for just one project pelican box? 😜
Looks off to me in spots. If your going to do something, do it right.
How much you charge me for one of those pelican case inserts?
*pick n pluck foam*
which pelican is that?
In my opinion, i wouldn´t like my lenses to bang against acrylic every time i slide them in or take them out, which for a camera operator, happens a thousand times a day.
Or you could get a trekPak!
A for effort on this one!