Thank you for going into detail on the moisture situation. A lot of people skip talking about that, and as we all know..... moisture in the wrong places can be a problem. Thanks for sharing this with us. :)
I never thought I'd want to learn all this info 5 years ago lol I love it is so so cool! Look at all those awesome tools and his knowledge about resin ugh
@@spencercooper-thorn2624 I'm 24 I'm saying 5 years ago at 19 I never would never see myself looking into this types of videos I think its awesome now... that's what I'm saying
The sanding tips are gold. Mark your parts between every grit, go slow, don't skip grits, use a vac, and still check with mineral spirits...I refinished a top one time because I didn't check and it wasn't until stain, and 3 coats of arm r seal that I saw it I. The right light, then I couldn't unsee it. Never skip the mineral spirits 👍
awesome video especially the sanding tips, i struggle with swirl marks and have looked through many different sanding videos and nothing i found did as good of a job explaining steps to avoid and correct them as this did and that was just 1 of the 5 tips.
The reason wood moisture content is so important is that wood shrinks AND swells due to the environment it's in. Wood reacts to it's environment, which for furniture means the relative humidity of the home it's in. The area you live in, how much cooking, showering, and the number of people exhaling in the house as well as how well your A/C system works will affect the humidity in your home. It even changes seasonally due to humidity levels outside. The average home is in the 30%-50% range. This corresponds to a wood moisture content of 6%-9% for wood located in that home. This means furniture, wood flooring, trim, and any other wooden objects will acclimate and reach an equilibrium base on the relative humidity in the home. Wood also does it's expansion across the grain, and not along the grain. So ideally you want the moisture content of anything wooden that is destined to be inside a house to be at 6%-9%, in order to avoid it shrinking, swelling or warping after it's made and placed inside.
Great video, thanks for the tips! I’m about to embark on my first live edge slab project for an A/V built-in unit, and have anxiety of not wanting to screw it up. Your videos are helping ease my concerns by showing the right ways and answering my questions. Yinz’re doin great work, keep sharing your knowledge!
Hi John. Saw you on Off The Ranch. I'm a maker/crafter too and a member of Makers Media Network. Joined your channel and look forward to seeing more of your beautiful work.
Just started working with live edge doing a cabinet out of 3/4” ply with shaker door and live edge bar top made of cedar filled with clear epoxy and live edge shelves above. So looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Great video John. I know some people are getting tired of the live edge style, but I love it. It can be used for so many different styles. You always seem to nail the projects! Love those steel bowties as well.
That large bright brown Slab at the end seems to be Parota/ Guanacaste? Wonderful speecies of wood, bought 2 months ago a Parota Slab which is becoming my new Dining room table. 380cm long and 150cm wide, cant wait to see it finished!
Wow great information. I just moved to PA and see you are 2 hours from me. I am in Somerset County south east of you. I am stating a new shop And just bought a Alaskan chain sawmill for 54" slabs. Just found a supply of root balls to slab up. Will be building a new Kiln in the shop in the next month or 2 as soon as I kind of get settled into the new House. Ron USCG MKC RET
Hi John, good video. I mill live edge slabs and kiln dry them down to around 8-9% (100's over the years). After they are in my non climate control shed they go back to 12-13%. On what you said about taking bark off I suggest to new wood worker to remove it. But some want it to stay on. I found that trees log during winter months retain bark well.
Not that it matters I made a clock in 1985 out of a slice of maple. Didn't remove the bark sealed it with polyurethane and it still has the bark on it today. Luck I guess. Your tips are killer and sooooo helpful
Thank you John. We are building a livewood bar for our ice cream shop. It's pirate themed. I've sanded it and was about to finish it. I left the bark! 😅😅😅 Back to the garage! 😜
I know epoxy and live edge tables are prob only done for clients due to business needs but would LOVE to see you do more awesome all round timber workmanship and video explanations
I've always thought it would be nice if the bark could be left on some builds. Would give a really rustic look. Doesn't seem to be a good idea from all the videos I've watched and no one leaves the bark on. At least none I've seen. Thanks for the tips.
Some great tips, especially on accentuating the timber’s voids. One comment on tip 2 though. When you discussed looking at the end grain & growth rings to spot the possible movement of the wood you identified the opposite direction to movement. As timber dries & moves, growth rings generally try to ‘straighten out’ & will bow away from the centre of the tree, not in the sweeping direction you were demonstrating with your hand. Good video all the same.
@@John_Malecki Know that zone all too well John. When I'm in front of a class of students, I continually have 'brain-farts' over simple terms and explanations.
I love your video. They are so helpful. I am making and extension table but don't have a clue of how the make attach etc the guides and slides. Do yo know where I can find this type of information>
Great video and excellent tips! I want to do some river tables someday soon, just gathering info for now. I feel smorter already! (Liked, subscribed, shared...)
Yinz. Radar went off. I went to college in Greensburg. So I knew you were around Pittsburgh somewhere with that yinz. Braddock, PA, north of Glassport (I’ve been there) and McKeesport (drove through there). What inquiring minds really want to know is, do you have any gumbands?
To go deeper on meter tech: Pinless meters use electromagnetic waves. Pin meters rely on electrical current. AKA pinless samples a little larger deeper volume, for a more accurate reading, without marking the material.
I know this video is older, but I have a couple questions if you have time... you said after you get it home you should flatten it then sticker it for a couple weeks to acclimate to your shop. What if the wood you are bringing home isn't dry yet? I just cut down a bunch of silver maple, but I know it is gonna take a couple years before I can use it unless I build a kiln this summer... should you flatten it to final size before drying if it is super wet? Also not sure what all shapes I want the different pieces to be yet either. I just tried to get them reasonably flat with the chainsaw and tossed them in my wood rack to dry. I also put some anchorseal on them to keep them from checking too much. Should I flatten them more now so pieces dry faster/better? Or will they just pull too much out of flat since they are so green?
Great video! So if I’m not mistaken, your saying if I use big metal legs then the c channel isn’t necessary? I am building an 8’x30”x1.5” walnut live edge table right now. I have some really big H style Legs for the table and was also going to add c channels as well. My question is what depth of c channel should I use? I bought some store bought c channels but they are 1.25” deep and my tabletop is only 1.5” so I’m nervous that will create a weak point. Thoughts? Thanks
Just a beginner and plan on making a cedar plank river table. This was very helpful. What do you do if the slabs were “said” to be drying outdoors for 8 months?
Bark falling off depends on what season the wood is harvested in. In spring/summer, the wood is growing, so the bark is loose and will fall off as it dries. In fall/winter, the wood is dormant, so the bark is held tight to the wood and not as likely to separate. Think of the cambium layer as a heat sensitive non-newtonian liquid.
See i was always told the bark grows for years after the wood is harvested, regardless of when because of how its stickered and dried (if proper) is that not the case ?
@@John_Malecki I've never heard of or seen that happen, but it's possible that we are conceptualizing it in different ways. Fundamentally though, when a tree is harvested it is essentially dead as I understand it.
What is the point of the c-channel? I understand the wide screw slots allow wood movement, but what good is the "c" part that goes into the wood? It's a loose fit, so it can't be providing any strength. Maybe the c-shape makes the bar stronger so the slab can't bend it and the "c" goes into the wood to visually hide it???
Hi John. I'm doing my first epoxy river table and I'm buying a kiln dried flattened slab. When I let it acclimate for the 2-3 weeks should I just have it setting on a flat surface or should I clamp it down?
Does it matter if the live edge is up or down on an epoxy pour? I'd like to do an epoxy pour/river table, where the live edge is the bank of the river so it needs to face up. A lot of videos I've been watching show the live edge facing down.
Do you need to stabilize any size live edge table or only large ones? I'm going to make a 24" x 48" x1.25 walnut slab river table. Do I need a stabilizer? Thanks!
If the slab is dry (6-7%) is it still necessary to use C channel? Just watched another video that said if you dry it to the EMC where table will be then it will stay flat.
Thanks for the video. If you have a crack extending to the edge of the table, Would epoxy be sufficient to stabilize it or do you need to use additional methods like a bow tie or c channel or table platform?
if you apply multiple coats - then that's the purpose of a sealer - to be flexible, and then a couple coats of polyurethane for instance. the rubio hes talking about here is flexible so not a problem. 3 coats of shellac on the other hand with no sealer= *Flakes*
John Malecki they’re all true. The only time I use anything else I use Ship to Shore from Daly’s or Sherwin Williams’ clear automotive finishes but the automotive finishes of course need to be sprayed.
John Malecki the Osmo is especially nice if there are kids around or special adults who might chew in the furniture (maybe you’re at Diane Feinstein’s house), it’s perfectly safe.
Do you ans questions? Only been at epoxy for a year but I have not had many problems. Minor leaks not a good color mix but basically ok. The other day I picked up a project ready to sand. Top is hard but the bottom is soft. Soft enough to pit a probe in about ½ inch. Mixed by instructions and cured for 48 hours. Any ideas? Any help?
Hello, I'm an ex cabinet maker so I am familiar with building many wood products BUT, I have been asked by my boss who's is one of the owners of the company to make a 2" thick table that will be 42" x 72" with a 8" or so river down the middle. What brand resin do you recommend , I have read horror stories of some brand that Amazon sells, these guys followed the instructions with terrible results, don't want to go there. I also want to do the wash and flood coat over the top, no urethanes since the wood (Sycamore) is on the soft side of hardwoods. Very fun watching your videos
Hi John, excellent video! As a beginner I found it very informative and easy to understand, thanks. I'm working on my first live edge outdoor bar table, would the Rubio 2C oil be a good choice for something that will sit in the sun and rain?
I'm having a really hard time filling a massive live edge in the center round 4 inches thick.. lol probably about 3-4 gallon of reain but it had alot of small deep crevices and holes it's just keeps taking all my resin no freaking ending and it's all disappearing how I already plugged all the holes from behind so it's just inside the wood piece some where ahhh!
Love your videos I have a slab I want to work on, the most amazing detail is the Bark,, so maybe I should send you a picture. This slab might change you rule on cutting off the bark.
John can you or someone tell me why the edges of my slabs soak up more epoxy resin than the rest of the slab? What can I do to combat this? Or what am I doing wrong?
Nice job with ad placement. They came right between each tip and didn't interrupt each segment like most channels.
This might be the most informative video I’ve seen on woodworking. Cheers dude
Thank you for going into detail on the moisture situation. A lot of people skip talking about that, and as we all know..... moisture in the wrong places can be a problem. Thanks for sharing this with us. :)
I never thought I'd want to learn all this info 5 years ago lol I love it is so so cool! Look at all those awesome tools and his knowledge about resin ugh
How can you learn from 5 years ago if the video is 1 year old ? Confused on your comment ✌🏻
@@spencercooper-thorn2624 I'm 24 I'm saying 5 years ago at 19 I never would never see myself looking into this types of videos I think its awesome now... that's what I'm saying
The sanding tips are gold. Mark your parts between every grit, go slow, don't skip grits, use a vac, and still check with mineral spirits...I refinished a top one time because I didn't check and it wasn't until stain, and 3 coats of arm r seal that I saw it I. The right light, then I couldn't unsee it. Never skip the mineral spirits 👍
glad you enjoyed them my friend!
awesome video especially the sanding tips, i struggle with swirl marks and have looked through many different sanding videos and nothing i found did as good of a job explaining steps to avoid and correct them as this did and that was just 1 of the 5 tips.
Swirl marks suck, but a little patience and you can crush it !
The reason wood moisture content is so important is that wood shrinks AND swells due to the environment it's in. Wood reacts to it's environment, which for furniture means the relative humidity of the home it's in. The area you live in, how much cooking, showering, and the number of people exhaling in the house as well as how well your A/C system works will affect the humidity in your home. It even changes seasonally due to humidity levels outside. The average home is in the 30%-50% range. This corresponds to a wood moisture content of 6%-9% for wood located in that home. This means furniture, wood flooring, trim, and any other wooden objects will acclimate and reach an equilibrium base on the relative humidity in the home. Wood also does it's expansion across the grain, and not along the grain. So ideally you want the moisture content of anything wooden that is destined to be inside a house to be at 6%-9%, in order to avoid it shrinking, swelling or warping after it's made and placed inside.
Ahhh, the Maker Ranch epoxy table, that was a great one! Good itps
Thanks brother!
The C channel tip is the best new (to me) woodworking procedure I've seen in a couple of years, could have used that multiple times prior. Thanks.
GLad i could helpTom !
Hey John, great tips! Question. Is that C channel actual metal stock or fabricated flat sheet put on a press brake?
It’s a fabricated product
Your work is impeccable! I love this.
Old Glory in the background. You get a like from me!
Appreciate the C-channel tip. My slab work so far has been in narrower boards for benches and such, but I’ve got some larger slabs coming.
Yea the base you're using should help to keep those flat. Thats awesome you got some bigger ones coming in !
Great tips and laid back approach
Great video, thanks for the tips! I’m about to embark on my first live edge slab project for an A/V built-in unit, and have anxiety of not wanting to screw it up. Your videos are helping ease my concerns by showing the right ways and answering my questions. Yinz’re doin great work, keep sharing your knowledge!
Hi John. Saw you on Off The Ranch. I'm a maker/crafter too and a member of Makers Media Network. Joined your channel and look forward to seeing more of your beautiful work.
Just started working with live edge doing a cabinet out of 3/4” ply with shaker door and live edge bar top made of cedar filled with clear epoxy and live edge shelves above. So looking forward to seeing the finished product!
Great video John. I know some people are getting tired of the live edge style, but I love it. It can be used for so many different styles. You always seem to nail the projects! Love those steel bowties as well.
People are always getting tired of everything haha glad you like it !
That large bright brown Slab at the end seems to be Parota/ Guanacaste?
Wonderful speecies of wood, bought 2 months ago a Parota Slab which is becoming my new Dining room table. 380cm long and 150cm wide, cant wait to see it finished!
Wow great information. I just moved to PA and see you are 2 hours from me. I am in Somerset County south east of you. I am stating a new shop And just bought a Alaskan chain sawmill for 54" slabs. Just found a supply of root balls to slab up. Will be building a new Kiln in the shop in the next month or 2 as soon as I kind of get settled into the new House. Ron USCG MKC RET
Hi John, good video. I mill live edge slabs and kiln dry them down to around 8-9% (100's over the years). After they are in my non climate control shed they go back to 12-13%. On what you said about taking bark off I suggest to new wood worker to remove it. But some want it to stay on. I found that trees log during winter months retain bark well.
Great video! Thanks for all the tips!
Great video and awesome tips, especially for us newbies. Thanks man!!!
Glad i could help Shane!
I've been loving you videos, you crack me up and have good info.
Glad you're digging it Kurt !
Moisture: The amount of water in the wood. Got it. ;-) Another helpful video John! Thanks!
Youde be surprised my friend .... hahahah
Not that it matters I made a clock in 1985 out of a slice of maple. Didn't remove the bark sealed it with polyurethane and it still has the bark on it today. Luck I guess. Your tips are killer and sooooo helpful
Top video mate!!! Makes me feel more confident starting to do my own project!
Thank you John. We are building a livewood bar for our ice cream shop. It's pirate themed. I've sanded it and was about to finish it. I left the bark! 😅😅😅 Back to the garage! 😜
Lol... good timing on watching the vid....
Amazing tips and tricks. I was just talking with SWMBO about doing a live edge counter top or table. Now I know the 5 Tips for Better Live Edge Slabs.
Crush it my friends!
I know epoxy and live edge tables are prob only done for clients due to business needs but would LOVE to see you do more awesome all round timber workmanship and video explanations
Looking to get a live edge table for our dining room. You’re videos are very informative. Thank you !
New subscriber...nice coffee table / wall art...my favorite tool is my tig machine
Great Tips John! I always learn something new from your videos!
Thank you! Glad I can help !
Excellent video, learned so many. 👍🏻
I just subscribed bro! Pumped to see what content you have coming up!!
Thanks JP!
Awesome tips mate, definitely subscribing.
Hi John what finish would you use in a commercial setting to where the top will get a lot use. Thank you.
I've always thought it would be nice if the bark could be left on some builds. Would give a really rustic look. Doesn't seem to be a good idea from all the videos I've watched and no one leaves the bark on. At least none I've seen. Thanks for the tips.
Awesome info I am a hardwood floor guy and I had use Rubio but to pricey I use UNO COAT FROM PRO COAT and they had others finishes.
Some great tips, especially on accentuating the timber’s voids. One comment on tip 2 though. When you discussed looking at the end grain & growth rings to spot the possible movement of the wood you identified the opposite direction to movement. As timber dries & moves, growth rings generally try to ‘straighten out’ & will bow away from the centre of the tree, not in the sweeping direction you were demonstrating with your hand. Good video all the same.
Good point, yea when you're in the video zone you tend to speak like an idiot. or when you're me. thats always the zone! thanks for the fix!
@@John_Malecki Know that zone all too well John. When I'm in front of a class of students, I continually have 'brain-farts' over simple terms and explanations.
I love your video. They are so helpful. I am making and extension table but don't have a clue of how the make attach etc the guides and slides. Do yo know where I can find this type of information>
Great video and excellent tips! I want to do some river tables someday soon, just gathering info for now. I feel smorter already! (Liked, subscribed, shared...)
Yinz. Radar went off. I went to college in Greensburg. So I knew you were around Pittsburgh somewhere with that yinz. Braddock, PA, north of Glassport (I’ve been there) and McKeesport (drove through there). What inquiring minds really want to know is, do you have any gumbands?
To go deeper on meter tech:
Pinless meters use electromagnetic waves. Pin meters rely on electrical current. AKA pinless samples a little larger deeper volume, for a more accurate reading, without marking the material.
Awesome tip Chris !
Thanks John, it's an awesome video!
I know this video is older, but I have a couple questions if you have time... you said after you get it home you should flatten it then sticker it for a couple weeks to acclimate to your shop. What if the wood you are bringing home isn't dry yet? I just cut down a bunch of silver maple, but I know it is gonna take a couple years before I can use it unless I build a kiln this summer... should you flatten it to final size before drying if it is super wet? Also not sure what all shapes I want the different pieces to be yet either. I just tried to get them reasonably flat with the chainsaw and tossed them in my wood rack to dry. I also put some anchorseal on them to keep them from checking too much. Should I flatten them more now so pieces dry faster/better? Or will they just pull too much out of flat since they are so green?
Thanks for this wealth of info! Someday... in the meantime, I drool over these peices😅
maybe you need Swoobies :-) LOL...... Great Video!!!
Well done sir! What part of Canada did you learn about live edge from? Just curious as I live in Ontario Canada.
I use a lot of live edge wood in my products! Thank you John for the tips!👍🏻
GLad I could help !
Awesome tips from an awesome builder! Love the videos John
EXCELLENT PRODUCT!!
Great video! So if I’m not mistaken, your saying if I use big metal legs then the c channel isn’t necessary? I am building an 8’x30”x1.5” walnut live edge table right now. I have some really big H style Legs for the table and was also going to add c channels as well. My question is what depth of c channel should I use? I bought some store bought c channels but they are 1.25” deep and my tabletop is only 1.5” so I’m nervous that will create a weak point. Thoughts? Thanks
Great job buddy..as always..
Thanks Tim!
You gave lots of good info thanks.
what's your suggestion for attaching a live edge resin top to a trunk as a base .. 3 x 5 top on 8 inch round base
I see your Southwire banner in the background. I am looking out my office window at their main office building.
What if I was to fill it with epoxy on the inside of the tabes? For the bark
Great job....looks fantastic....John any Polish roots?
Just a beginner and plan on making a cedar plank river table. This was very helpful. What do you do if the slabs were “said” to be drying outdoors for 8 months?
Any board will cup to the weaker part of the tree not the centre. Basically opposite to the growth ring direction.
Bark falling off depends on what season the wood is harvested in. In spring/summer, the wood is growing, so the bark is loose and will fall off as it dries. In fall/winter, the wood is dormant, so the bark is held tight to the wood and not as likely to separate. Think of the cambium layer as a heat sensitive non-newtonian liquid.
See i was always told the bark grows for years after the wood is harvested, regardless of when because of how its stickered and dried (if proper) is that not the case ?
@@John_Malecki I've never heard of or seen that happen, but it's possible that we are conceptualizing it in different ways. Fundamentally though, when a tree is harvested it is essentially dead as I understand it.
Have you done any videos on how to prepare the wood before 'mixing' it with the epoxy?
What is the point of the c-channel? I understand the wide screw slots allow wood movement, but what good is the "c" part that goes into the wood? It's a loose fit, so it can't be providing any strength. Maybe the c-shape makes the bar stronger so the slab can't bend it and the "c" goes into the wood to visually hide it???
the C is structurally very straight because of the ears. It also allows you to not have to cut a whole recess, just a few slots. It stays flat well.
Lot of solid information thank you
Hi John. I'm doing my first epoxy river table and I'm buying a kiln dried flattened slab. When I let it acclimate for the 2-3 weeks should I just have it setting on a flat surface or should I clamp it down?
Fantastic video!!!!!! Thank you for your knowledge!!!!!!!! Your an amazing craftsman!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you my friend!
Does it matter if the live edge is up or down on an epoxy pour? I'd like to do an epoxy pour/river table, where the live edge is the bank of the river so it needs to face up. A lot of videos I've been watching show the live edge facing down.
Do you need to stabilize any size live edge table or only large ones? I'm going to make a 24" x 48" x1.25 walnut slab river table. Do I need a stabilizer? Thanks!
If the slab is dry (6-7%) is it still necessary to use C channel? Just watched another video that said if you dry it to the EMC where table will be then it will stay flat.
You're so talented.
Thanks for the great tips! It couldn’t hurt to lower the music levels in your video so it doesn’t distract from your important information.
Any video with more detail on attaching legs properly?
No but theres hundreds around, check out fix this build that!
Great video.
Have you ever had your table tops forming a bow and if they did how would you fix it?
Great Tips.... Love the helpful videos...
Glad you enjoyed them Matt
Thanks for the video. If you have a crack extending to the edge of the table, Would epoxy be sufficient to stabilize it or do you need to use additional methods like a bow tie or c channel or table platform?
Demolitia here to stay!
Thanks Dj !
On a wide slab like that, do you think the amount of wood movement could cause a clear coat like lacquer or poly to crack?
Nah I would think not
if you apply multiple coats - then that's the purpose of a sealer - to be flexible, and then a couple coats of polyurethane for instance. the rubio hes talking about here is flexible so not a problem. 3 coats of shellac on the other hand with no sealer= *Flakes*
@@tonyrodrigues811 hence why shellac is an outdated finish 👌👌👌 good info my man
In terms of ease of use and general awesomeness you might like Osmo as a finishing coating.
I have heard great things!
John Malecki they’re all true. The only time I use anything else I use Ship to Shore from Daly’s or Sherwin Williams’ clear automotive finishes but the automotive finishes of course need to be sprayed.
John Malecki the Osmo is especially nice if there are kids around or special adults who might chew in the furniture (maybe you’re at Diane Feinstein’s house), it’s perfectly safe.
What do you think about Osmo for a finish? I've used it on a few projects and have been pleased with it.
I havent used it myself yet, but heard great things!
Do you sand the underside of the table?
Do you ans questions? Only been at epoxy for a year but I have not had many problems. Minor leaks not a good color mix but basically ok. The other day I picked up a project ready to sand. Top is hard but the bottom is soft. Soft enough to pit a probe in about ½ inch. Mixed by instructions and cured for 48 hours. Any ideas? Any help?
still looking for that video link of all the live edge projects youve ever done...
Is aclimate the same as acclimatise? Dave 🇦🇺
Any thoughts on cedar live edge tables?? Have 2 book end match peices about 1.5in thick.
Hello, I'm an ex cabinet maker so I am familiar with building many wood products BUT, I have been asked by my boss who's is one of the owners of the company to make a 2" thick table that will be 42" x 72" with a 8" or so river down the middle. What brand resin do you recommend , I have read horror stories of some brand that Amazon sells, these guys followed the instructions with terrible results, don't want to go there. I also want to do the wash and flood coat over the top, no urethanes since the wood (Sycamore) is on the soft side of hardwoods. Very fun watching your videos
Im just wondering if you could to the epoxy with a blue beach weathered stain at all
Do you have a link for the threaded inserts and matching bolts that you use?
John: how do you feel about using Rubio Monocoat on an oily wood such as olive?
thanks, great videos!
Hi John, excellent video! As a beginner I found it very informative and easy to understand, thanks. I'm working on my first live edge outdoor bar table, would the Rubio 2C oil be a good choice for something that will sit in the sun and rain?
I'm having a really hard time filling a massive live edge in the center round 4 inches thick.. lol probably about 3-4 gallon of reain but it had alot of small deep crevices and holes it's just keeps taking all my resin no freaking ending and it's all disappearing how I already plugged all the holes from behind so it's just inside the wood piece some where ahhh!
Did you just say “yinz” or “youinz”? Alright then you must be from “Picksburgh” I grew up there. Great video.
hahah hell ya i said Yinz. Yinzer thru and thru
John Malecki just subbed great channel
Thanks brother!
Very helpful tips! :)
Do you ever use a sanding sealer?
do you put a epoxy finish on the underside of project?
The C- Channel insert, do you put it after you flattened the board?
Epic boss, love the content! I’m a follower from here on, cheers to a fellow artist😎✌️
What was drill attachment you used to remove bark remnants?
Love your videos
I have a slab I want to work on, the most amazing detail is the Bark,, so maybe I should send you a picture.
This slab might change you rule on cutting off the bark.
I would like to see the pic!
John can you or someone tell me why the edges of my slabs soak up more epoxy resin than the rest of the slab? What can I do to combat this? Or what am I doing wrong?
DEVIL DOG! Had to give you a like and sub right out the gate! 😂 🤣 😂 🤣
Great info 👍👍👍👍
Thanks my dude !
What kind of wood is the slab that you‘re sanding in the end of the video?