That was nicely explained, thanks. I took "shop" for a minute in school but due to a concussion I can't remember much math. It comes back, but SOOO slowly.. what used to take an hour or two I MIGHT accomplish in 4 or 5 days (depending on the effort and frustration level) Maybe I can watch over and over to increase my muscle memory again. I'm glad to have run across your channel, thanks again, sir.
Thanks Pete. Good Demo. I,m playing a little with my complete Jeep rewire. Switching everything possible to ground. A step toward security for the fun of it.
@@PetesGarage Thank you. Long to short. I got another Jeep for cheap "87 never driven in winter. 5.2 Dodge, etc........The wiring is atrocious. Usual. Strip it all out start over fresh the way it should have been. Relays and fuse blocks etc. Everything.
At around about 10:00 you explain that the filaments draw different currents. (hence one is brighter than the other). According to ohms law if they draw different currents they must have different resistances. Yet you say they have the same resistance. The skinny filament has a higher resistance, draws less current and is therefore not as bright (less wattage). The fat filament has less resistance, draws more current and is brighter (higher wattage). It's ok we get the idea.
Very informative. So should I run a ground on the front signal lights to the chasis as well? When I do I get a flicker on my dash signal lights when I press the horn. Maybe the horn shouldn’t be on the chassis ground? The build manual says to ground all to chasis. Yet the kwick Wire instructions show no ground. I am stumped. Please help me understand this since we have the same build. 🤔
This is a great simple but very informative video. Thank you! I've got a 1977 Toyota Pont-X, which is one of the many camper mods that was built on old Toyota pickups in that era. All my rear lights work except passenger brake light. Bulb is good, ground is good, socket is good. I seem to only be getting 10.5 volts when brake is engaged on the side that doesn't work. and about 11.5 on the side that does. Fuses and switches are good. Can't figure out what/where the problem is.
Yea thats not what I meant. How do you use that one wire for both the brake and signal. One wire goes to the tail light, and the other runs the signal and brake. How do you get the brake light to shut off for the signal to blink on that one wire?
There is a power wire from the headlights that powers the light/blinker, and another wire for the brake lights. Two different wires feed the tail light
@@PetesGarage ok, so I did led tails and blinkers, bought the new style flasher relays for hazard and blinkers as you suggested. Everything worked great at first. For some reason my brake lights are dim unless the Parking lights are on. Also related, the hazards are no longer working. I switched relays around and still the same issue. Any ideas? Check grounds?
Perfect video! I have an issue with my 69. When I ground the negative by me pressing on the wire to the chassis the blinker works and wire gets hot. When I actually connect the ground with the ring terminal the blinker stops working , any clue what it can be ?
This is what I need to know as well. It's only 2 filaments. One goes to the tail lights, so that only leaves 1 wire and 1 filament left for the brakes and turn signal. I need to know how to wire that up to work.
I have a question on a cobra I just purchased the turn signal and brake lights work fine when headlights are off but when I turn on my headlights then the brake and turn stop working any help on what could cause this would be very helpful thanks in advance
Hard to say without knowing how the car is wired. Power for both are probably take off the headlight switch and power drops out when the switch is turned on
Good video.....But your first diagram about chassis ground is wrong. You drew a parrel circuit and a series circuit. Lights are hooked up in parrell not series. The chassis is common ground.
I cannot believe how haphazardly you dangle those wire over a battery like that. That's a great way to get electrocuted. Also having a blanket that looks flammable underneath a potential fire hazard is also quite unbelievable.
I appreciate your concern, however, you can't get electrocuted from 12 volts DC. There is nothing to produce a spark hot enough to ignite much of anything really.
Finally a guy who knows how to explain brake light wiring. Thanks for explaining Ohms law. That was a big help.
Thanks Richard
This was an incredible education. I have searched high and low and you have described it perfectly. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Pete Sir, You are still a kid at heart with the burning wires. A Plus
It was in the name of science.....lol
That was nicely explained, thanks. I took "shop" for a minute in school but due to a concussion I can't remember much math. It comes back, but SOOO slowly.. what used to take an hour or two I MIGHT accomplish in 4 or 5 days (depending on the effort and frustration level)
Maybe I can watch over and over to increase my muscle memory again. I'm glad to have run across your channel, thanks again, sir.
Thanks my friend
Pete your knowledge and workmanship is excellent. All of your videos are excellent and informative 🇺🇸😊
Glad you like them!
Wow! Now that was challenge. I am with you, every time you say it a new challenge instead of the next step.
Getting closer to the end
Thanks Pete. Good Demo. I,m playing a little with my complete Jeep rewire. Switching everything possible to ground. A step toward security for the fun of it.
That sounds like a fun project Jake.
@@PetesGarage Thank you. Long to short. I got another Jeep for cheap "87 never driven in winter. 5.2 Dodge, etc........The wiring is atrocious. Usual. Strip it all out start over fresh the way it should have been. Relays and fuse blocks etc. Everything.
That will be a blast!
@@PetesGarage Your inspiration sure helps Pete.
Pete I am binging your channel and learning so much! Your the man, dog!
That's awesome...thank you
That was super informative, thank you Pete!
Glad it was helpful!
Another good one Pete
Thanks Stephen
At around about 10:00 you explain that the filaments draw different currents. (hence one is brighter than the other). According to ohms law if they draw different currents they must have different resistances. Yet you say they have the same resistance.
The skinny filament has a higher resistance, draws less current and is therefore not as bright (less wattage). The fat filament has less resistance, draws more current and is brighter (higher wattage). It's ok we get the idea.
All correct. well.. some filaments can be designed somewhat differently leading to different lumens but yeah....
That's the only part of the video I didn't correct....thanks for the comment
Pete, thanks a lot! Could you please also share one of your projects?
I share almost every project
Very informative. So should I run a ground on the front signal lights to the chasis as well? When I do I get a flicker on my dash signal lights when I press the horn. Maybe the horn shouldn’t be on the chassis ground? The build manual says to ground all to chasis. Yet the kwick Wire instructions show no ground. I am stumped. Please help me understand this since we have the same build. 🤔
Follow the Kwik wire instructions. Everything should run to ground.
@@PetesGarage Ok so I know everything is working. Just have to figure out why my dash signal lights flicker when I blow the horn. Always something..
Does the light bulb only goes in one way or do I have to make sure the brighter side goes to the brake/ signal?
For a bulb with 2 elements, the direction matters, although it should only go in 1 way
In the 242Bahamas nice video i in enjoy it
Thanks my friend
This is a great simple but very informative video. Thank you! I've got a 1977 Toyota Pont-X, which is one of the many camper mods that was built on old Toyota pickups in that era. All my rear lights work except passenger brake light. Bulb is good, ground is good, socket is good. I seem to only be getting 10.5 volts when brake is engaged on the side that doesn't work. and about 11.5 on the side that does. Fuses and switches are good. Can't figure out what/where the problem is.
That is either a bad ground or a frayed wire
How do you acheive the function of the brake and signal on the one wire? I can't figure it out for nothing. How do I wire that?
The positive goes to the light and the frame of the light goes to ground
Yea thats not what I meant. How do you use that one wire for both the brake and signal. One wire goes to the tail light, and the other runs the signal and brake. How do you get the brake light to shut off for the signal to blink on that one wire?
There is a power wire from the headlights that powers the light/blinker, and another wire for the brake lights. Two different wires feed the tail light
That was awesome!
Thank you!
@@PetesGarage ok, so I did led tails and blinkers, bought the new style flasher relays for hazard and blinkers as you suggested. Everything worked great at first. For some reason my brake lights are dim unless the Parking lights are on. Also related, the hazards are no longer working. I switched relays around and still the same issue.
Any ideas? Check grounds?
@@PetesGarage sorry, I replied to you about another video I watched.
You have the brake lights hooked up to the running lights somehow
@@PetesGarage I would think that if the brake lights didn’t function normally at first. Something happened when I tested the flashers.
Best video by far! Ma mannnn!
Thank you MA Friend!
Perfect video!
I have an issue with my 69.
When I ground the negative by me pressing on the wire to the chassis the blinker works and wire gets hot. When I actually connect the ground with the ring terminal the blinker stops working , any clue what it can be ?
Sounds like the + wire it touching ground or you have them backwards
Is the blinker and brake light connected together? If yes, what happens when u have indicator on and brakes applied at the same time?
There are usually 2 different elements and they are separate.
This is what I need to know as well. It's only 2 filaments. One goes to the tail lights, so that only leaves 1 wire and 1 filament left for the brakes and turn signal. I need to know how to wire that up to work.
I have a question on a cobra I just purchased the turn signal and brake lights work fine when headlights are off but when I turn on my headlights then the brake and turn stop working any help on what could cause this would be very helpful thanks in advance
Hard to say without knowing how the car is wired. Power for both are probably take off the headlight switch and power drops out when the switch is turned on
There is 3 wires, one for ground, one for parking, one for brake, how did you get the signal also ? Please teach me
There is one for the ground, one for brake, and one for turn
Great video Pete, I like that piano music too, who does that?
That music is supplied by RUclips, I can't use material that has a copyright. The artists are completely unknown.
so they took your music options away. wow.
Did you connectte ground to the chassi and to the car , but the ground didnt connect to the lights ( wire )
There is either a ground wire, or the light bracket is the ground
Good video.....But your first diagram about chassis ground is wrong. You drew a parrel circuit and a series circuit. Lights are hooked up in parrell not series. The chassis is common ground.
Thanks
My problem in my car is that the brake and signal lights work but tail lights don't. What should I check?
The wires that go to the headlight switch
Heyy Pete I really need your help! both pins on the bulb turn on but it stays on! and don’t blink at all how come? I can send you a vidoe?
You must have your signal wires mixed up
How can i find an fix a draw in my truck i. Already bought a new charging system
Unplug 1 wire at a time and watch the meter?
What about the fuse
Fuse goes between the light and the + power source
Your taillights like mini Coopers
Only different
I barely passed college algebra by the skin of my teeth. Was the last soul left in the classroom during finals. I think I passed with a C??
You can do this!
Thank you pete!👍🏁
ENGINE OVERLOAD! MUST ABORT!!!
Am I missing something or is this dejavu
Nope, there was an upload issue so since I had to redo it I made it shorter and easier to understand.
I cannot believe how haphazardly you dangle those wire over a battery like that. That's a great way to get electrocuted. Also having a blanket that looks flammable underneath a potential fire hazard is also quite unbelievable.
I appreciate your concern, however, you can't get electrocuted from 12 volts DC. There is nothing to produce a spark hot enough to ignite much of anything really.
Your math doesn't make sense at all 48 ohm how? E=IR
E=12
I=3
R=4
I'll check it out. thanks
Remedial.... Get to the point of the video.
The first word in the title is "Basic"
I enjoyed the remedial @@PetesGarage