The synthetic SAE 5W-40 oil (4lit) is very expensive and BMW filters are not cheap either so the only reason I change them myself is to avoid a 300km round trip. If I lived closer to the dealer I would let them do it as the extra cost is not that much. Removing and replacing the fairing and making sure all the screws go back where they came from is the most time consuming part of this job. My three year warranty expires in January 2024 anyway. Just changed the oil now and my bike had ZERO metal particles - at least none visible to the human eye. Very pleased.
Draw on cardboard the shape of the faring , mark the bolts holes in the cardboard matching the fairing . Then , as you remove the bolts push them into the cardboard . Keep the cardboard templet for the next time you remove the fairing.
Yup you can probably get away with hand tightening it. I like to have the oil filter nice and tight so that it doesn't come loose or drip any oil on the Race track which might be extremely dangerous for me or others.
gl tightening it hand tight with headers and radiator clamp still in place, what he did is perfectly fine, he noted the OEM bmw tightness and tightened it to spec.
Guys, Salvation is Simple HalleluYAH “Hallel u YAH - Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Father (Genesis 1) YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE Ancient Semitic Moshe (Moses) Isaiah Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
On the track + slicks you can go safely to 60 degree lean , after that it gets a bit dicy ;) Check out my cannel. Have lots of track videos with the S1000 like riding it on Laguna Seca etc.
I don't reset the service indicator as I have to swap oil as an avid track rider a lot more than once a year. However yes with a few OBD tools you can reset those.
i pull out the hose from the oil cooler for easier access to the filter behind and that gets another 50-100ml old oil out of the hose what do you think about prefilling the new filter with some shots of fresh oil before screwing it on? wouldn't trust the logo on the filter is always aligned with the threads inside the same way an every new filter, it looked very tight now go as tight es you can with hands and then give it a quarter or max half turn with tool
I love the thought experiment and to think about it ...hmm I don't see how that would be needed. The oil pump would suck on some air for a short while and then get the new oil from the bottom of the bike after. Happy to ask my local BMW tech but never heard anyone doing that.
How do you keep your warranty intact changing the oil yourself? BMW stated they have to sign off that I did the oil change correctly.. which is like $7 cheaper than them just doing the oil change. Awesome tutorial, it's def easy. Most oil filters are hand tight only. So unless there is a torque spec. Id go hand tight only. ☺️
And using the printed BMW logo to line it up sounds dodgy. The logo wouldn’t necessarily be printed in the same place relative to the thread on every filter they manufacture, just like labels are stuck randomly to jars and bottles as they spin though the production machinery.
Refining the engine right before you change it allowed all the impurities and participated to be deadly mixed in the oil so you will remove more than of the participated we're settled
Nice, but the idea is the give you room to work. The more you can see and access it - the easier to remove the oil filter and replace it and clean up the mess afterwards. But if you wanna keep the fairing on and it works for you that's great .
"I have seen a few folks recommend Oil Filter Torque of 11 nm." "Alpha Racing recommends 25 nm for the Drain Plug." What does BMW recommend? You know, the people who designed and built the bike.
@@MonoMoto "they want you to go to the dealer" I'll do whatever the F they want if BMW honors the warranty on an incredibly expensive machine. Does the BMW warrant department recommend alpha? If not, alpha either needs to get BMW's support or not get my money. The ONLY thing that matters to me as a non-millionaire, is the people who will be deciding a very expensive warranty claim. I recently had a major defect that destroyed the entire engine of my R1, and it was only because of that rule that saved me well over $10,000. That's right, "doing what they want" saved be the cost of a new bike. Not an issue for used bikes, but that's a different matter.
forget the oil change - I was just starring at the charred FRONT TIRE - this boy does not mess around!
😇😈
This was enjoyable winter viewing 😁 best oil change tutorial I’ve come across 🙏🏻 good job and thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial! The kit makes it easy to get everything I need from one place.
Glad it was helpful!
Such a good video, very informative, I just bought this bike used and was nervous changing the oil 👍🏼
Glad it was helpful :)
The synthetic SAE 5W-40 oil (4lit) is very expensive and BMW filters are not cheap either so the only reason I change them myself is to avoid a 300km round trip. If I lived closer to the dealer I would let them do it as the extra cost is not that much. Removing and replacing the fairing and making sure all the screws go back where they came from is the most time consuming part of this job. My three year warranty expires in January 2024 anyway. Just changed the oil now and my bike had ZERO metal particles - at least none visible to the human eye. Very pleased.
Draw on cardboard the shape of the faring , mark the bolts holes in the cardboard matching the fairing .
Then , as you remove the bolts push them into the cardboard . Keep the cardboard templet for the next time you remove the fairing.
@@goodboyringo9716 Great idea thanks.
Oil filter does not need to be tightened with a tool. Spin it on and tighten with your hand that’s all it needs.
Yup you can probably get away with hand tightening it. I like to have the oil filter nice and tight so that it doesn't come loose or drip any oil on the Race track which might be extremely dangerous for me or others.
gl tightening it hand tight with headers and radiator clamp still in place, what he did is perfectly fine, he noted the OEM bmw tightness and tightened it to spec.
Guys, Salvation is Simple
HalleluYAH “Hallel u YAH - Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Father (Genesis 1)
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
Ancient Semitic Moshe (Moses)
Isaiah Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
One of the best explanation thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Nice man very informative😊
Glad it was helpful!
+1
Excellent vid! But what's the deal with that front tire?!
Thank you! The front tire just looks like that due to race track abuse (it's a Pirelli race slick)
@@MonoMoto you must get some insane lean angles 👍👍
On the track + slicks you can go safely to 60 degree lean , after that it gets a bit dicy ;)
Check out my cannel. Have lots of track videos with the S1000 like riding it on Laguna Seca etc.
Thank you !
You're welcome!
Great video I thank you
Glad it was helpful ! Lots of more RR content coming when I pick up my new bike 🏍.
May I ask how you reseted the service indicator? Was it the obd & motoscan app? Thanks
I don't reset the service indicator as I have to swap oil as an avid track rider a lot more than once a year. However yes with a few OBD tools you can reset those.
i pull out the hose from the oil cooler for easier access to the filter behind and that gets another 50-100ml old oil out of the hose
what do you think about prefilling the new filter with some shots of fresh oil before screwing it on?
wouldn't trust the logo on the filter is always aligned with the threads inside the same way an every new filter, it looked very tight now
go as tight es you can with hands and then give it a quarter or max half turn with tool
Nice trick with the hose. And agreed I think that time around was a bit on the tight end. Didn't cause any problems - certainly didn't leak hehe O:)
Why would you pre-fill the filter ?
oh and Re : the logo , yes it will be printed on different parts for sure. Was mostly to satisfy the OCD.
@@MonoMoto for priming the oil system
I love the thought experiment and to think about it ...hmm I don't see how that would be needed. The oil pump would suck on some air for a short while and then get the new oil from the bottom of the bike after. Happy to ask my local BMW tech but never heard anyone doing that.
You should get the tool to reset the service light and show how it works, that would be a good video.
Good idea ! might do that in the future once the bike is out of warranty and I don't bring it every year to the dealer anymore. It's pretty simple :)
How do you keep your warranty intact changing the oil yourself? BMW stated they have to sign off that I did the oil change correctly.. which is like $7 cheaper than them just doing the oil change. Awesome tutorial, it's def easy. Most oil filters are hand tight only. So unless there is a torque spec. Id go hand tight only. ☺️
@@marke1761 yeah that oil filter looks well over torqued doesn’t it
And using the printed BMW logo to line it up sounds dodgy. The logo wouldn’t necessarily be printed in the same place relative to the thread on every filter they manufacture, just like labels are stuck randomly to jars and bottles as they spin though the production machinery.
Thank you for the video
Thanks for leaving a note . Made my day 😀
why do you warm the engine ? what would happen if you change the oil while it is cold ?
Excellent question . Oil gets more viscous when warm . So it will flow easier and you’ll get it out quicker and more of it will exit the engine .
Refining the engine right before you change it allowed all the impurities and participated to be deadly mixed in the oil so you will remove more than of the participated we're settled
I can get the filter wrench on and off without removing the lower fairing.
Nice, but the idea is the give you room to work. The more you can see and access it - the easier to remove the oil filter and replace it and clean up the mess afterwards. But if you wanna keep the fairing on and it works for you that's great .
How many litres of oil did you use?
It's all in the video. You need to order 4 but won't be using all of it.
"I have seen a few folks recommend Oil Filter Torque of 11 nm."
"Alpha Racing recommends 25 nm for the Drain Plug."
What does BMW recommend? You know, the people who designed and built the bike.
Heheh they want you to go to the dealer . I don’t have the official shop manual unfortunately- I’d trust alpha as they work exclusively with bmw .
@@MonoMoto "they want you to go to the dealer"
I'll do whatever the F they want if BMW honors the warranty on an incredibly expensive machine.
Does the BMW warrant department recommend alpha? If not, alpha either needs to get BMW's support or not get my money. The ONLY thing that matters to me as a non-millionaire, is the people who will be deciding a very expensive warranty claim.
I recently had a major defect that destroyed the entire engine of my R1, and it was only because of that rule that saved me well over $10,000. That's right, "doing what they want" saved be the cost of a new bike. Not an issue for used bikes, but that's a different matter.
You dont remove the oil in the oil cooler?
Nope, there are only small amounts in the oil cooler, when the engine is off - so I don't bother with that if you do frequent oil changes.
@@MonoMoto sounds good thanks.
Don’t tighten the filter using the removal tool, hand tight then quarter of a turn is all that’s needed
he tightened it to BMW standard which is perfectly fine..
What size is the crush washer?
16MM aluminum crush ring
Timing chain tensioner is ill 🥲
huh?
Why ratchet? Next time use impact gun to be sure that its tight 😂
😂😂 yes I made it a bit tight 😇