Great video. I agree with literally everything you said in your conclusion. Throwing in a new board + screen will really open the machine up to hotter temps and more mods. But I do agree that completely stock, it prints great. I've gotten some amazing prints out of it in that way.
Thanks! I'm hoping Voxelab continues to work on the firmware and make an Aries V2 with an enclosed build space and quieter operation. Did you recognize the RGB fans I used? I bought a 4-pack of them after seeing your video. They sure came in handy here.
@@NathanBuildsRobots That would really take the Aries to where it needs to be honestly. I did! I love em. People are telling me they are sold out now. I need to pickup another set. :)
It is a great machine, I've been getting some good prints out of mine. I think you'll be happy with it as long as you get it without the expectation of being able to mod it, (hence the title of the video). Good luck with your 3d printing journey, it's a great way to get the kids thinking about math and science.
Sorry I don't pull punches on my reviews :'( Let me know if you need help setting up a PrusaSlicer profile for this printer. I haven't set one up yet but I can share it with you when I do.
Just bought this printer from amazon australia for $230 AUD which is an absolute bargain to me , i already have an Ender 3D pro V2 which i had to spent ages leveling every time i used it , print fails etc drove me nuts so now it just sits in storage with parts i never got to install Pi print server autoleveling probe etc etc probably spent $600 Aud so disapointed with it . As the Voxelab Aries is supposed to be very easy to use and setup and beginner friendly with wifi i thought i would have another crack at 3D printing . Thanks for the info on the fan and sound dampeneing i will see if mine is noisy when it arrives later this week. Anyyyyyyyway to cut a long story short ;-) you just gained a sub .Thank you
I understand you're upset about the poor build, but you don't need to remove all the plastic and add rubber. Simply insert a thin rubber between the rear case and the extruder gap to reduce the sound.
I tend to like because it looks like cherry Jolly Ranchers, which is the best flavor. I'll try it out on my next print, I still I still have the 1st spool from my Aquila too
Thanks for the great review. With the wild price swings Amazor has been having on this printer, I keep considering if I should add this or the Prusa Mini to the herd. If it hits $250, I'm definitely going to pick one up. I like modding and fiddling, but I need a printer that just works when I need it to that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (I only have one of each of those as it is 😅). I've added an Ender 7 that's definitely going back because it's too much money for far too little, and my Ender 6 arrives Thursday.
Wow, $700+ is a bit much for that ender 7. I guess it cost $100 for each ender they include in the machine. Yeah I'm going to turn it into my designated ABS printer as soon as I get a chance. Looks like the Ender 6 could do the same albeit a little more expensive. I actually haven't printed with ABS in years since PLA became the filament of choice for general printing. But ABS holds up a lot better in slightly elevated temperatures and direct sunlight, so I'm looking forward to using it again. Also it's a tad less dense.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, I've been wanting to print ASA (supposedly like ABS but far more successful/forgoving due to the decreased shrinking/warping during printing) but haven't found the right printer for it yet. I never pay retail for my printers. I got the Ender 7 for $629 and the 6 for $480, both new in box. I'm hoping the 6 is what I've been looking for. Otherwise back to the search! My workhorse? A heavily modified Ender 3 V2 that I'd describe as anything but stable. 😅
Nice video and conclusion. It’s seems like a great printer for someone that just wants to plug and go and not break the bank. Shame that you can’t mod it.
It looked like there was an unused plug for a BLTOUCH on the hotend breakout PCB, which makes me hopeful that they are working adding more features to the firmware (otherwise why include an unused expansion port?) Another pro is the over-the-air update was the fastest and easiest firmware update I've ever done. It only took 10 seconds. So that means if they do decide to update it, there's a good chance people will actually use the newest version. PID and Estep tuning are a must for me, so I really hope they add that soon.
Wow I've actually been looking for some silent 40mm 24v fans, and they're lit up! Nice, two birds. Also if you want to hear a loud extruder, get an Flsun Super Racer and turn the extruder speed up to 60mm/s or higher, that thing is loud AF. I'm replacing mine with that BMG clone v2.1 on Amazon, hopefully it's quieter but I dunno.
My bmg clones aren't too loud, but it's all relative. On retractions they can click a little bit, but I've used them in a bunch of my videos. The Haldis ones are good, I've bought about 4 of them, on one of them a grub screw came loose and it started slipping. Had to take it apart and re-tighten that screw, and overall build quality isnt great, but they get the job done up to 60 cubic mm/s and are very cheap.
So ebay has these aquilas for $80 free shipping listed as "customer returns". Recently purchased one and everything was in its original packaging and looked brand new. Maybe I got lucky but the machine is doing great so far for the price compared to my ender 3 pro.
The market is getting flooded with printers. Prices are coming down. It's great. I really like the Artillery Sidewinder I just tested. It's just over $300 with ABL, bigger bed, and a super clean design.
Not being moddiable is actually a good thing for me, My ender 3 V2 was ruined after I installed many upgrades so that's got a sour taste in my mouth for modding 3d printers. I just wanted something that is easy and quick to setup and ready to go
I replaced my fans with the same winsinn models and they don't always start initially unless you give them a small push. Did you encounter this? Are they just not getting enough voltage at startup?
Thank you for posting this great video. I have a question regarding the HeatBreak. I clicked on the Amazon link and it is showing something different than from what i see on the video. The one on the video has a red color and the one on the link is just a tube. I found this browsing around Amazon, "FEMBW Creality Ender 3 Hotend,Assembled Extruder Metal Hotend Kit for Ender 3 / Ender 3 V2 / Ender 3 pro, 3D Printer Hot end Kit Parts for MK8 Nozzles (1PCS)" Let me know if this what 's in the video. Thanks again!!!
I have this machine and I can't get it to work anymore. It wont move once it's heated up, and it's only heating to 207. All searches say I should calibrate the PID, but you say this machine doesn't allow that. What do you think I should do?
This is the problem with locked down firmware! Can you print at 205? You can also trick it into heating up more by installing a 45W or 50W heater instead of the stock 40W? Heater If you msg me on discord I will follow up with you.
Thanks for the review. Could you let me know if you have the details about the Throat tube size or one you would recommend for this product. I new to this and can't figure out what to order exactly to get an all metal hot end
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sorry I'm so new to this. Does it matter which one? Are they all the same thread size and you just pick based on fancy ones or not? what about length does that matter?
Get one tht says it is compatible with "Ender 3 v2" This uses pretty much the same setup as the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3 The Ender 3 S1 and others use a different sized heatbreak
I just used the Ender 3 stock profile. Looking back, it actually has some of the best print quality. Great motion system and looks. Just wish it was easier to upgrade
Great video! I ordered one for my nephew earlier. I think switching out the fans is great advice. For the 24v fan, what size fits? They have a few listed (40, 30, 25mm). I'd like to switch them out ahead since it seems like it makes a dramatic difference. Thanks!
You will need two 40mmx40mmx10mm fans, one for the hotend and one for the base. I think the bracket in the base was a little bent so when I put my fan in it would grind on itself a little, but I fixed it by bending the L bracket it was attached to. Good luck, this printer is very noob friendly so I hope you nephew enjoys it.
Thanks for the great suggestions =) It made my printer wayy quieter! Though I was thinking of also replacing my PSU fan with the same fan I used for the motherboard Anyone tried that by any chance?
I would guess it's too small. I have heard of people just jamming the PSU fan with a zip tie amd printing for years like that, but I would never reccomend that!
You can download .STL files from a website like thingiverse, then load them into the VoxelMaker software. That will process the STLs into Gcode which can be ran on the printer.
I don't remember. I think it arrived pre-leveled. This thing has crazy good print quality but the firmware situation makes me steer away from it, just because I like to improve/change things over time, and it would be hard to do on this machine.
great video, thanks for posting. How do you remove the bowden tube from the extruder? I can't figure it out and don't want to break anything removing it!
Voxelab Aries extruder imgur.com/gallery/z6bKgD0 It looks like thus extruder with some surrounding stuff to hold onto it: www.biqu.equipment/products/3d-printer-accessories-makekbot2-extruder-ii-generation-plastic-parts-left-right-suite-with-1-75-3mm-double-gear I would remove 4 screws (the 2 shiny hex socket screws on top and the 2 Phillips head black screws on the bottom) to separate the clamshell. The tube will probably come right out after that. It looks like they are using a press washer as a 1-way push fitting. Haven't seen that before but it appears to work well... until you need to remove it. Probably saved them 10 cents per printer over a brass pneumatic fitting. I could think of a few faster and more destructive way to get it apart 🔥 🔪 💥. You might be able to get away with just undoing the top 2 screws if the case is flexible to open up like that but do it at your own risk!
I just got this printer and I was wondering what the brand of fan is that you replaced it with so I can get the same thing or whatever you recommend is best?
Can you please tell me what fan size or fan I need for the bottom are they both 24v fans 40mm? I have this printer it is my first printer I also wanted to know if you could tell me the exact metal hot end you got and where I can get it?
Butyl Rubber has great damping properties and is super cheap. I got mine from an old inner-tube, but if you search amazon for strips or sheets of butyl rubber, you'll find some. There are also some urethane compounds formulated to have excellent damping, like Sorbothane.
Hello, your videos have been such a great help! I am looking to purchase my first 3d printer, but am looking at a beginner friendly model (ie aries or adventurer). In that $300-$400 do you think an aries or an adventurer 3 pro would be the better option? I like how you dont have to use the proprietary slicer on the aries, but also like that the adventurer is fully enclosed (i have 3 cats and a 1 year old) and auto levels. Which do you feel would be better quality for smaller hobby prints and possibly some etsy sales?
You can always build an enclosure separately if you need one. The LACK enclosures are a classic and should work well. It just takes up a bit of space. For a budget machine I'd get the Voxelab Aquila, super cheap and good quality, but no auto bed leveling If you can spend a little more, I would reccomend the Ender 3 S1 If you want a bigger print volume, The Artillery X2 is pretty well reviewed. I recently got one to test, but have not tried it yet,
I just checked and there have not been any firmware updates since I made this video, so nothing new in the UI or USB pluggability. There -MIGHT- be a way to do the things that I was complaining about by running .gcode files saved to a flash drive: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html But they are using a custom firmware that does not support all of the same commands as Marlin, so I don't really know if that would work either. Plus 99% of the time people are tuning esteps or PID values using the printer's UI, or by running commands directly from a computer over USB. Since this thing does not have a plug for a USB serial connection, you can't run a terminal or octoprint. There are a whole lot of unknowns about this printer, and at the end of the day if you want to change those settings it's much easier to do on a machine like the Voxelab Aquila or the Ender 3. The only thing keeping this video from being a scathing review is that the print quality and overall experience setting up and using the machine in its stock configuration is actually very good - better than your Ender3s and Voxelab Aquilas. It's just not great for modding, which I really like to do on my machines.
@@NathanBuildsRobots sorry for asking a stupid question, but how would you go about that, all the programs I've tried doesn't have a way to connect to it, and I'm very novice when it comes to this, this was my first printer I had bought to get into 3d printing, which was just back in December. Wish I would have seen your video before purchasing! Your video helped me even figure out how to change out the bad hotend! I appreciate any help! Thanks so much!
I have noticed that I start every other sentence with "Alright so..." I think it's a natural reaction to recording the 10th take of something, but I'll work on editing those out or just starting with what I'm meaning to say.
Since reading this comment I have edited out about 100 unnecessary "so"s and I think it has improved the flow of my narration. Alright, so thanks for the advice!
I was going to try out the Red Lizard hotend by Haldis. There are a couple different versions of it but here is the one I had: amzn.to/3FoviIS It's got the thermistor on the opposite side of the hotend than the heater cartridge. Not sure if it's a good or bad thing. It could make it more likely to overshoot the temperature or better at accounting for heat loss due to extrusion. Will have to wait to find out since I could get it to work on this machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots no. Returning the printer. The touchscreen works for leveling, all other touching except touching to print. I'm not wasting my time on it. I'll exchange it for flashforge adventurer 3 though I pr
I guess thats the problem with a highly proprietary electronics and software design. It won't be as well supported as a mainstream open-source project, so you get bugs, and its harder to fix.
Any reviewer so arrogant as to brag about not reading, and tossing the user manual is so indicative of the bumpkins joining the hobby, winging it, trial & error and eyeballing and you're a reviewer!
A well designed product does not need a user manual. For example, most people do not read the manual for their car, phone, microwave. So I give it a try without reading the manual to see how infuriating it is to set up. I always read my car's use manual. It is always well written and full of useful information. However, the user manuals that come with 3d printers often do not contain the information in most interested in, like what kind of firmware they run, or if it is lacking certain features. So rather than reading the manual, I just start using it. Your right, I should page through it to verify it's contents first before discarding... something about judging a book by its cover... They are more of "assembly manual" than a "user manual". Meaning, they show how to assemble the machine step by step (though they often leave out critical information on poper leveling/tightening/tuning), and spend only 1 or 2 pages on steak "use" of the machine, which is the kind of info that should be in a "user" manual.
Being my first 3D printer I read through the whole manual, all 21 pages. It's more set up info than anything. I've learned more on this through you tube than the manual.
Great video. I agree with literally everything you said in your conclusion. Throwing in a new board + screen will really open the machine up to hotter temps and more mods. But I do agree that completely stock, it prints great. I've gotten some amazing prints out of it in that way.
Thanks!
I'm hoping Voxelab continues to work on the firmware and make an Aries V2 with an enclosed build space and quieter operation.
Did you recognize the RGB fans I used? I bought a 4-pack of them after seeing your video. They sure came in handy here.
@@NathanBuildsRobots That would really take the Aries to where it needs to be honestly.
I did! I love em. People are telling me they are sold out now. I need to pickup another set. :)
I kind of doubt it. Most of these 3D printer companies don't do a great job of upgrading the firmware over time.
Thank you! I purchased one for my son and they loved it. It is so much easier to setup than ender (we are new to 3d printing).
It is a great machine, I've been getting some good prints out of mine. I think you'll be happy with it as long as you get it without the expectation of being able to mod it, (hence the title of the video).
Good luck with your 3d printing journey, it's a great way to get the kids thinking about math and science.
-already bought and finds this video- -sweats- lord please have something good to say
Sorry I don't pull punches on my reviews :'(
Let me know if you need help setting up a PrusaSlicer profile for this printer. I haven't set one up yet but I can share it with you when I do.
Just bought this printer from amazon australia for $230 AUD which is an absolute bargain to me , i already have an Ender 3D pro V2 which i had to spent ages leveling every time i used it , print fails etc drove me nuts so now it just sits in storage with parts i never got to install Pi print server autoleveling probe etc etc probably spent $600 Aud so disapointed with it . As the Voxelab Aries is supposed to be very easy to use and setup and beginner friendly with wifi i thought i would have another crack at 3D printing . Thanks for the info on the fan and sound dampeneing i will see if mine is noisy when it arrives later this week. Anyyyyyyyway to cut a long story short ;-) you just gained a sub .Thank you
How was it?
Excellent and objective analysis
Original fans are not only loud but also sound wonky
Installed new fans and heat break
Thanks for links
Awesome video !! Thanks for the Prusaslicer profile, will test it soon ! Thanks !!!!
where did you get the profile?
I understand you're upset about the poor build, but you don't need to remove all the plastic and add rubber.
Simply insert a thin rubber between the rear case and the extruder gap to reduce the sound.
That included filament from voxelab is really freaking good, you should print it and give it a chance. They sell it by the kg
I tend to like because it looks like cherry Jolly Ranchers, which is the best flavor. I'll try it out on my next print, I still I still have the 1st spool from my Aquila too
Thanks for the great review. With the wild price swings Amazor has been having on this printer, I keep considering if I should add this or the Prusa Mini to the herd. If it hits $250, I'm definitely going to pick one up. I like modding and fiddling, but I need a printer that just works when I need it to that doesn't cost an arm and a leg (I only have one of each of those as it is 😅). I've added an Ender 7 that's definitely going back because it's too much money for far too little, and my Ender 6 arrives Thursday.
Wow, $700+ is a bit much for that ender 7. I guess it cost $100 for each ender they include in the machine.
Yeah I'm going to turn it into my designated ABS printer as soon as I get a chance. Looks like the Ender 6 could do the same albeit a little more expensive.
I actually haven't printed with ABS in years since PLA became the filament of choice for general printing. But ABS holds up a lot better in slightly elevated temperatures and direct sunlight, so I'm looking forward to using it again. Also it's a tad less dense.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, I've been wanting to print ASA (supposedly like ABS but far more successful/forgoving due to the decreased shrinking/warping during printing) but haven't found the right printer for it yet.
I never pay retail for my printers. I got the Ender 7 for $629 and the 6 for $480, both new in box. I'm hoping the 6 is what I've been looking for. Otherwise back to the search! My workhorse? A heavily modified Ender 3 V2 that I'd describe as anything but stable. 😅
Nice video and conclusion. It’s seems like a great printer for someone that just wants to plug and go and not break the bank. Shame that you can’t mod it.
It looked like there was an unused plug for a BLTOUCH on the hotend breakout PCB, which makes me hopeful that they are working adding more features to the firmware (otherwise why include an unused expansion port?)
Another pro is the over-the-air update was the fastest and easiest firmware update I've ever done. It only took 10 seconds. So that means if they do decide to update it, there's a good chance people will actually use the newest version.
PID and Estep tuning are a must for me, so I really hope they add that soon.
Wow I've actually been looking for some silent 40mm 24v fans, and they're lit up! Nice, two birds. Also if you want to hear a loud extruder, get an Flsun Super Racer and turn the extruder speed up to 60mm/s or higher, that thing is loud AF. I'm replacing mine with that BMG clone v2.1 on Amazon, hopefully it's quieter but I dunno.
My bmg clones aren't too loud, but it's all relative. On retractions they can click a little bit, but I've used them in a bunch of my videos.
The Haldis ones are good, I've bought about 4 of them, on one of them a grub screw came loose and it started slipping. Had to take it apart and re-tighten that screw, and overall build quality isnt great, but they get the job done up to 60 cubic mm/s and are very cheap.
@@NathanBuildsRobots the one on the Flsun Super Racer is real cheap, the loudness is the gears grinding at high speeds
Wonderful job. Sub to your channel already because of this video. Also, did you manage to change the HOT end at the end? (no pun intended)
I did not change the hotend, it's still mostly stock because I couldn't re-tune the PID values as far as I'm aware.
So ebay has these aquilas for $80 free shipping listed as "customer returns". Recently purchased one and everything was in its original packaging and looked brand new. Maybe I got lucky but the machine is doing great so far for the price compared to my ender 3 pro.
The market is getting flooded with printers. Prices are coming down. It's great. I really like the Artillery Sidewinder I just tested. It's just over $300 with ABL, bigger bed, and a super clean design.
Not being moddiable is actually a good thing for me, My ender 3 V2 was ruined after I installed many upgrades so that's got a sour taste in my mouth for modding 3d printers.
I just wanted something that is easy and quick to setup and ready to go
In the last month, 2 of my modded printers just stopped working, so I totally get that.
Any chance you can get the v2 back to working order?
Would you be able to do a video on printer setting and best setting for this printer
Great sound mods
I replaced my fans with the same winsinn models and they don't always start initially unless you give them a small push. Did you encounter this? Are they just not getting enough voltage at startup?
Might be a bad batch. The thing about cheap fans like these is they aren’t always 100% quality built
Thank you for posting this great video. I have a question regarding the HeatBreak. I clicked on the Amazon link and it is showing something different than from what i see on the video. The one on the video has a red color and the one on the link is just a tube. I found this browsing around Amazon, "FEMBW Creality Ender 3 Hotend,Assembled Extruder Metal Hotend Kit for Ender 3 / Ender 3 V2 / Ender 3 pro, 3D Printer Hot end Kit Parts for MK8 Nozzles (1PCS)" Let me know if this what 's in the video. Thanks again!!!
I have this machine and I can't get it to work anymore. It wont move once it's heated up, and it's only heating to 207. All searches say I should calibrate the PID, but you say this machine doesn't allow that. What do you think I should do?
This is the problem with locked down firmware! Can you print at 205? You can also trick it into heating up more by installing a 45W or 50W heater instead of the stock 40W? Heater
If you msg me on discord I will follow up with you.
Nice sweet holly mamma!!!
Great video! Do you have a model/brand for the fans you replaced? I would like to replace the same ones you did, the hot end and motherboard fans.
Check the video description, I included a link to the fans I used. No-name 24v RGB fans have been working great for me in all my builds.
Thanks for the review. Could you let me know if you have the details about the Throat tube size or one you would recommend for this product. I new to this and can't figure out what to order exactly to get an all metal hot end
All-Metal Heatbreak:
amzn.to/3HrUqk0
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sorry I'm so new to this. Does it matter which one? Are they all the same thread size and you just pick based on fancy ones or not? what about length does that matter?
Get one tht says it is compatible with "Ender 3 v2"
This uses pretty much the same setup as the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Pro, and Ender 3
The Ender 3 S1 and others use a different sized heatbreak
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for the additional information. This is exactly what I needed. Appreciate your time.
Great video my friend, how you configure this printer in prusa slicer?
I just used the Ender 3 stock profile. Looking back, it actually has some of the best print quality. Great motion system and looks. Just wish it was easier to upgrade
Great video! I ordered one for my nephew earlier. I think switching out the fans is great advice. For the 24v fan, what size fits? They have a few listed (40, 30, 25mm). I'd like to switch them out ahead since it seems like it makes a dramatic difference. Thanks!
You will need two 40mmx40mmx10mm fans, one for the hotend and one for the base. I think the bracket in the base was a little bent so when I put my fan in it would grind on itself a little, but I fixed it by bending the L bracket it was attached to. Good luck, this printer is very noob friendly so I hope you nephew enjoys it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Awesome, thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the great suggestions =)
It made my printer wayy quieter!
Though I was thinking of also replacing my PSU fan with the same fan I used for the motherboard
Anyone tried that by any chance?
I would guess it's too small.
I have heard of people just jamming the PSU fan with a zip tie amd printing for years like that, but I would never reccomend that!
I really need the hot end n fun if I keep the printer
uhhmmm guessing you did not know those lines on a benchy show up only in high accuracy machines
Where can I find compatible files to download for printing off a usb?
You can download .STL files from a website like thingiverse, then load them into the VoxelMaker software. That will process the STLs into Gcode which can be ran on the printer.
I had some major issues with Nozzle removal and build plate layer/s quality as I cannot print on mine without a raft.
Could you not do esteps and PID through pronterface?
What printing program are you using
You didn't level it or anything? That red starter filament is excellent, you wouldn't believe how strong it is. The sides are glass smooth.
I don't remember. I think it arrived pre-leveled. This thing has crazy good print quality but the firmware situation makes me steer away from it, just because I like to improve/change things over time, and it would be hard to do on this machine.
great video, thanks for posting. How do you remove the bowden tube from the extruder? I can't figure it out and don't want to break anything removing it!
Voxelab Aries extruder imgur.com/gallery/z6bKgD0
It looks like thus extruder with some surrounding stuff to hold onto it: www.biqu.equipment/products/3d-printer-accessories-makekbot2-extruder-ii-generation-plastic-parts-left-right-suite-with-1-75-3mm-double-gear
I would remove 4 screws (the 2 shiny hex socket screws on top and the 2 Phillips head black screws on the bottom) to separate the clamshell. The tube will probably come right out after that.
It looks like they are using a press washer as a 1-way push fitting. Haven't seen that before but it appears to work well... until you need to remove it. Probably saved them 10 cents per printer over a brass pneumatic fitting.
I could think of a few faster and more destructive way to get it apart 🔥 🔪 💥. You might be able to get away with just undoing the top 2 screws if the case is flexible to open up like that but do it at your own risk!
this for $200 or Artillery Sidewinder X2 for $250?
Sidewinder!
I just got this printer and I was wondering what the brand of fan is that you replaced it with so I can get the same thing or whatever you recommend is best?
I think I put a link in the video description. All of the cheap 24v RGB fans I've bought have been super quiet
What temps are best for printing PLA on the Aries
I just print at the recommended temp on the spool + 5°C
It varies based on the PLA used, but generally I go for 205-210 hotend temp, 50-60C bed temp
@@NathanBuildsRobots 210 / 70 works for me
Can you please tell me what fan size or fan I need for the bottom are they both 24v fans 40mm? I have this printer it is my first printer I also wanted to know if you could tell me the exact metal hot end you got and where I can get it?
These links are in the video description:
24V Silent Fans:
amzn.to/3wT42PY
All-Metal Heatbreak:
amzn.to/3HrUqk0
Hi, what kind of rubber did you use to isolate the extruder motor, where can you buy it?
Butyl Rubber has great damping properties and is super cheap. I got mine from an old inner-tube, but if you search amazon for strips or sheets of butyl rubber, you'll find some.
There are also some urethane compounds formulated to have excellent damping, like Sorbothane.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Could you share some links for butyl rubber.
@@rugbeatuno3647 amzn.to/3Axdls2
This is probably way more than you need, but I bought some of this to use on future projects
What aboout other matherials like Nitrile and SBR and Neoprene? Do they work?
@@rugbeatuno3647 yes, pretty much any rubbery material will work. Look up materials for "vibration damping" or "sound deadening"
Hello, your videos have been such a great help! I am looking to purchase my first 3d printer, but am looking at a beginner friendly model (ie aries or adventurer). In that $300-$400 do you think an aries or an adventurer 3 pro would be the better option? I like how you dont have to use the proprietary slicer on the aries, but also like that the adventurer is fully enclosed (i have 3 cats and a 1 year old) and auto levels. Which do you feel would be better quality for smaller hobby prints and possibly some etsy sales?
You can always build an enclosure separately if you need one. The LACK enclosures are a classic and should work well. It just takes up a bit of space.
For a budget machine I'd get the Voxelab Aquila, super cheap and good quality, but no auto bed leveling
If you can spend a little more, I would reccomend the Ender 3 S1
If you want a bigger print volume, The Artillery X2 is pretty well reviewed. I recently got one to test, but have not tried it yet,
Have you figured out if you can do a pid tune on this yet or not?
I just checked and there have not been any firmware updates since I made this video, so nothing new in the UI or USB pluggability.
There -MIGHT- be a way to do the things that I was complaining about by running .gcode files saved to a flash drive:
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html
But they are using a custom firmware that does not support all of the same commands as Marlin, so I don't really know if that would work either.
Plus 99% of the time people are tuning esteps or PID values using the printer's UI, or by running commands directly from a computer over USB.
Since this thing does not have a plug for a USB serial connection, you can't run a terminal or octoprint.
There are a whole lot of unknowns about this printer, and at the end of the day if you want to change those settings it's much easier to do on a machine like the Voxelab Aquila or the Ender 3.
The only thing keeping this video from being a scathing review is that the print quality and overall experience setting up and using the machine in its stock configuration is actually very good - better than your Ender3s and Voxelab Aquilas. It's just not great for modding, which I really like to do on my machines.
@@NathanBuildsRobots sorry for asking a stupid question, but how would you go about that, all the programs I've tried doesn't have a way to connect to it, and I'm very novice when it comes to this, this was my first printer I had bought to get into 3d printing, which was just back in December. Wish I would have seen your video before purchasing! Your video helped me even figure out how to change out the bad hotend! I appreciate any help! Thanks so much!
Friend, can you provide your pursa slicer profile?
Here it is:
drive.google.com/file/d/1SDEr4BdnLFMZWtBbG1jcx7Ck1ieuAYOE/view?usp=sharing
Let me know if you have trouble opening that link
@@NathanBuildsRobots I was touched by your kindness. Thank you so much!
Hey so I can use prusa slicer also. Can I print petg on the printer
I find it funny with how intimidating leveling can be they don't add the ability to add a auto level.
Hello, do you have the fff profile for simplify3d of this voxelab aries printer? All the best.
No, I only used it with Prusaslicer and Voxelmaker
Good review, and thanks for the warning. Another thing: maybe you could work on not starting every other sentence with "So..."? Much obliged.
I have noticed that I start every other sentence with "Alright so..."
I think it's a natural reaction to recording the 10th take of something, but I'll work on editing those out or just starting with what I'm meaning to say.
@@NathanBuildsRobots It takes training and watching yourself, but you'll get there.
Since reading this comment I have edited out about 100 unnecessary "so"s and I think it has improved the flow of my narration.
Alright, so thanks for the advice!
What hotend is that?
I was going to try out the Red Lizard hotend by Haldis. There are a couple different versions of it but here is the one I had:
amzn.to/3FoviIS
It's got the thermistor on the opposite side of the hotend than the heater cartridge. Not sure if it's a good or bad thing. It could make it more likely to overshoot the temperature or better at accounting for heat loss due to extrusion. Will have to wait to find out since I could get it to work on this machine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks ! Was curious what the name was. Haven't seen it before somehow.
My new Voxelab Aries touch screen monitor is not responding
I would ask voxelab how to re-flash the firmware. That is the first thing I try in those situations.
@@NathanBuildsRobots no. Returning the printer. The touchscreen works for leveling, all other touching except touching to print. I'm not wasting my time on it. I'll exchange it for flashforge adventurer 3 though I pr
I guess thats the problem with a highly proprietary electronics and software design. It won't be as well supported as a mainstream open-source project, so you get bugs, and its harder to fix.
@@NathanBuildsRobots what vexes me the most is that it's the same they are checking out of the packaging box
Any reviewer so arrogant as to brag about not reading, and tossing the user manual is so indicative of the bumpkins joining the hobby, winging it, trial & error and eyeballing and you're a reviewer!
A well designed product does not need a user manual. For example, most people do not read the manual for their car, phone, microwave. So I give it a try without reading the manual to see how infuriating it is to set up.
I always read my car's use manual. It is always well written and full of useful information. However, the user manuals that come with 3d printers often do not contain the information in most interested in, like what kind of firmware they run, or if it is lacking certain features.
So rather than reading the manual, I just start using it. Your right, I should page through it to verify it's contents first before discarding... something about judging a book by its cover...
They are more of "assembly manual" than a "user manual". Meaning, they show how to assemble the machine step by step (though they often leave out critical information on poper leveling/tightening/tuning), and spend only 1 or 2 pages on steak "use" of the machine, which is the kind of info that should be in a "user" manual.
Being my first 3D printer I read through the whole manual, all 21 pages. It's more set up info than anything. I've learned more on this through you tube than the manual.
Please add Russian sub
I thought it did then automatically, I will check to see if I can add it