You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!
@@darith27 total tech will still cover this! No matter what for replacement for 2 years. I’m a manager I promise you this Darith. Thanks for being a meme bee if you are one. But yeah speak to any manager there. They’ll tell you it’s cover for replacement for electronics damages.
@@Mewtwo-xi5og it was never the best option. It was the cheapest option. Now everyone else makes a slightly better one, and creality makes a lot of much more expensive ones that are still flawed in the same ways. Sovol Sv06 is a decent printer.
The truth is, the public doesn't have a "3D printer," it's essentially a *3D Element Solder* machine. And why it's so slow. To actually do a "3D printing." It must solder in a full strip line at any one sliding longitude/latitude/altitude flow per layer make.
You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.
Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed. In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics
The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.
Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.
100% Anker's biggest mistake is staying with a bed slinger. This limits the speed of tall thin objects. My X1C is incredible, and has changed my entire perspective on 3d printing- and I've been printing for over 10 years! Started with a Solidoodle.
@@Jwmbike14 same! Been printing for 10 years now. I went from a wooden Replicator and finally "upgraded" to a Duplicator i3 machine a few years ago because it was $100 and found that was a bigger problem than i would have thought. Not only that it also moves the parts through the air, effectively cooling parts when you don't want to. Learned even though it could print at 120mm/s at first it would have to be lowered the higher and heavier the print gets. While my old Replicator could print at 160mm/s perfectly (when printing via USB, offloading the board processing). I picked up a Creality Sermoon D1 last year for $275, on clearance and open box. Going back to a solid bed had made prints far better since. Far more predictable prints and i can run it at 250mm/s 2,500 acceleration without an issue. Anything faster and the board can't keep up, needs faster electronics. I generally run it at 200mm/s 1,000 acceleration to keep it quiet, can barely hear it outside the closet it lives in. *Should note tons of custom mods done to my old Replicator
I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.
Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality
While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.
Well, yes you can get better perfomance for cheaper, but definitly not get better user experience for new 3d printing noobs. This 3d printer is geared for new people, you will definitly not get even get 150 mm/s without a lot of tinkering, flow calibration, linear advance and pressure advance tuning etc. Also this one is made to look good to consumers, not just for makers. So while it definitly isnt made for you and me, i dont think its a useless product. Its like a prusa, where you pay 1000€ for a normal bedslinger with outdated hardware, but get decent user Xp aswell.
@@aepfelpfluecker what? For that money you can get a prusa, and there’s nothing more reliable (and has an better out of the box experience) than one of their printers…
@@erebostd The Prusa i3 MK3s+ is a solid printer but the build-it-yourself kit cost $799, as much at the M5. That kit takes 6-8 hours to assemble, assuming the person doing the assembly has some basic mechanical skills. The M5 takes 10-20 minutes to set up and comes with an extra build plate, Prusa will send a second plate for an extra 35-40 bucks. I don't hate Prusa printers and for a long time they were king of the hill but they really haven't been innovating the last 4-5 years and their new large format printer has been plagued with delays and they refuse to release important information about specs and performance. Just to clarify they are taking money, 2000-4000 dollars on pre-orders, and haven't even told people the expected performance of the machine yet.
@@JaredCoiner if the reliability isn’t your concern, I’d get the P1P. It’s faster and has a better print quality than the ankermake. In my view the ankermake has competition on both ends. Prusa if you want a workhorse, and the P1P if you want fast, good prints… ruclips.net/video/5uBBnHZ080w/видео.html
Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.
Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?
This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.
i upgraded my cr10s pro v2s, increased weight with bitumen plates, added z-sync / rods, volcano hotend, cooling, linear rails, 0.9 steppers, klipper. it's a monster now, can literally do 3500 accel Y (x could do 12k) without any ghosting (suggested by resonsance test), 7000 accel with minor ghosting. print speeds ~150mm default for good looking parts, up to 300 if quality doesnt matter. even stock 90mm/s was perfect with this one. biggest upgrade was getting rid of creality motors, when you turn them they are grindy compared to the act motors i use.
Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.
We are exactly the same right now. Never seen Matt's content and it is very high quality! AnkerMake is working on AI detection, thankfully. At least it isnt really really needed. M5 doesnt really fail often
I find it funny how people are astounded by some new printers' speeds, while my 11 year old *wooden* little Ultimaker 1.0 blasts higher speeds than many at absolutely insane quality that left many of my Prusa MK3+ owning friends lost for words - down to 0.04mm layers in minute details :)
It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints. Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol
The auto bed level corrects issues like this by micro-lifting and lowering around the build plate. As everything wears down you need to auto level regularly. Its like how the Bambu X1C take 10 minutes to start it's prints, which thank god you can turn off... AnkerMake simply doesn't force you to do it.
@@echo-hotel Thats not really what I'm talking about, more so the printer would slow down and maybe print at different layer heights automatically for certain areas of a print. Like it'll print large simple sections of a figurine quickly then slow down for the face.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 You're looking for the variable layer height setting. Otherwise slowing down is just your accelerations: it won't reach high speeds before it has to decelerate. Of course, nothing stops you from slapping on modifiers that set reduced speeds and accelerations for a given print area...
The Ankermake can do 500 mm/s2, while a Creality K1 series can do up to 600 mm/s2, while also having the AI Camera on the K1C and Max, and being an Optional add on on the base K1, and being enclosed and with other features.
For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.
@@zacharylewis417 Ever heard of prusa? -Made in EU -Arguably the most reliable printer money can buy. Mine has 10k+hrs, zero replaced parts. -100% serviceable and repairable.
We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.
I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've had 3 Creality machines. They are good for a few months, MAYBE a year. Then the sub par stuff starts to break and wear out. The M5 is a totally different machine. That entire base is cast aluminum. It's more rigid than any printer I've ever experienced.
This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.
4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.
The latest firmware update has changed the AI a lot and it has gotten way better. Also, low light with black filament gives lots of false readings with the AI. This machine is my go-to machine ... as a matter of fact we just bought a second one.
@@Draxi_1 Normal "DIY toys" are made in much the same way: V-rollers on a V-slot, uprights. Anker has a downside in lacking an anchored-down bed, although for a bedslinger the sheer mass of the bed should be enough to keep it in the slots. For this price an enthusiast machine would be expected to supply a superior motion system, either linear rods (Prusa) or for more modern lineages, linear rails. Both are more rigid, reduce vibration and oscillation, thus requiring less input shaping effort and allowing higher speeds at lower maintenance and higher precision than V-rollers. Someone competent enough to need 8 printers in a farm will almost certainly have the know-how to ensure an Ender 3 to be reliable. Besides, when it comes to proprietaries, for 800 bucks you can have the Bambulabs P1P, a CoreXY machine with a much higher speed ceiling and overall capabilities than the Ankermake. It's able to hang up there with the RepRaps like the Vorons, VZBots, or Ratrigs in speed and quality. M5... Just cannot keep up with that, it's the fundamental limitation of the Carthesian bedslinger system. It also has to pick a fight with another bedslinger in Prusa Mk.4 now, which is a superior offering in every way.
A smart thing they could do to improve the AI would be a feedback system fro custom printing. Think like Tesla FSD. My suggestion is to allow connecting a mobile phone to it. Let the user report back failed printings. Submit the recording -- at least the beginning of the failure -- back. I'm sure many of the customers would like to support improving the printer by doing this extra work. It's a community, I guess! Just an idea!
You didn't mention how long did it take to print benchy on new machine. Was it 5 times faster?? Matt, you are missing a huge point when you are talking about the printing speed. You can set whatever speed you want but acceleration is a major limiting factor and on small prints such as benchy or other test prints you demonstrated it will never reach the desired speed. And mentioned acceleration for the printer up to 2500mm/s is actually pretty low for "fast printer". Also if you are talking about fast printing you must mention whether there are resonance compensation as this is new standard now. Another missing point is extrusion volume, but at low speeds which were demonstrated its not an issue. Also in slicer speeds for different types of lines are different. External perimeters, inner perimeters, infill etc, and they are usually by default significantly lower than basic speed. Anyway, try to print at 150mm/s for every line type with acceleration at least above 5000mm/s^2.
@@LilApe Who said that ? I have mine for almost 4 months and it's running as day 1. No problems at all. And it's not designed to be thrown awys maybe get surpassed by a new version as all products like the new Iphones every year.
@@ilvegetariano3836 What are you going to do when the CF rods and graphite bushings wear out? You can't replace them, as they're epoxied in place and BL doesn't sell the parts for them. And BL has said that the rods and bushings are non serviceable...So what are you going to do? You either throw it out, or send back to BL for repair.
My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else. I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds. *The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.
You should try BambuLab machines - they're faster and more advanced. Print quality is also incredible. Comparing features to AnkerMake, Bambulab is a stiff competitor that seems to have won out.
I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.) I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!
This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished. But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people. RUclips channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too. Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘 What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍
I always print at around 40 mm/s or even slower. For example, if I want to print something that takes 3 hours, there is no big difference if I print at 120 mm/s or 80 mm/s, it's just 1 or 2 hours faster. However, the printing quality is perfect.
That's because you print small things. And your acceleration is also not high enough. You may as well try printing at 1000mm/s, it'll never hit that speed with small parts + low accelerations.
Looks good with loads of features and nearly no setup but too expensive unfortunately. Tip for starting out in CAD: if your designing a model with some tolerance needed just print out a section of the print to test, eg for your phone holder you could print like 10-15mm height of the model to check phone fits well first. 😊
5:50 The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have. You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3. Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.
Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.
There are multiple levels to the AI. Also you need to fix you lighting perfectly for the best results. I have White, Black and Gray boards that go on the opposite side of the camera to provide contrast to the filament color. With a lot of added lighting of the right temperature, I think on the warmer side, it starts to function really well. When I hate it setup for nighttime prints I get notified of every error. But this means I have four lights pointed at it from every direction. And of course to pinned at the camera or creating hot spots. Yes the software isn't ready yet. But light anything with a 3D printer you need to work with it and not against it. A contrasting build plate would be nice as the only color I have a problem with is black. But who knows if that'd freak out the software or not right now. Please note anyone buying a new one, it only comes with one build plate. Also I think my camera looks better than his. The slicer is actually pretty good. It's not on the level of other slicers at all. But it is solid. It just works. You want to do art learn to slice elsewhere and drop into ankermake. You want to print a ton of boxes easy mode is all you need. Want nearly full 250mm/s, print boxes and circles. This goes for my Bambu X1C as well. It's faster, but it slows down on complicated prints, or at least you need to make it do so. Between these two I chose the AnkerMake for new designs. It's plenty fast enough to model something and prototype it on the AnkerMake then mass produce on the X1C. You can actually go beyond 250mm/s lol... Don't do it. It's fun but it will fail. So negatives: 1) Clearly the AI needs major work. But they have improved it multiple times. During the day now I can take away all but one light. 2) Replacement parts are hard to get. 3) They don't sell extra build plates as of (03-17-2023) 4) If you notice an error and want to pause you can but you can't lift the hotend to clear the nozzle or use the extrude feature that is there but needs the nozzle lifted! lol?!? This isn't a huge negative, just an oversight I think they'll fix eventually. And most other printers can't reset properly after being lifted anyway. 5) The ability to turn the printer off. You can leave it on all day and it appears to not use must power and the temp is basically room temperature... But come on this would be an awesome feature to remotely turn it off or put it in sleep mode. That's about it. Everything else would be outside of their control and specific to a persons needs. Even the AI camera isn't important for everyone. It simply works. And if it doesn't try a different filament. That's the one advice I'd give anyone with any printer, get different brand filaments and you'll find one that is a good baseline for dialing in your printer. Currently it's Overture Matte White for me. Works well with retraction and clearing out gunk. But look around for your own.
Bed slingers are old tech now. Nothing close to $600 is valid to spend $ on anymore because of the Bambu Labs P1P. Because of this we will see printers drop in price dramatically. You can get an Ender 7 at Matter Hackers for less than $400 ATM, and it has linear rails on the XY (please don't buy an ender unless you want to mod)
TPU is an advanced material. I don't think a beginner would use it and a more experienced person would logically understand that it needs to print slower. I think this is a really good an fast printer for the price you pay for it normally. Good call on the AI though. Thanks for your video!.
I haven't watched the whole video, but I just want to say that I can get my ender 3 (not V2, not pro) to print at 125mm/s with 2k acceleration. My voron 2.4 can print at 300mm/s with 7k acceleration. It's not the Anker that is fast, it's how you calibrate and set up your printer. The limiting factors are bed slingers, nozzle flow rate, and hotend cooling. Get you a printer that isn't a bed slinger, upgrade the hotend to high flow, and get good part cooling fans and you will be able to print at 200mm/s easy once you get everything dialed in
I know a lot of people don't buy the speed thing but go try printing a benchy at 250m/s on an ender 3. Even with tweaking settings and machine mods it's difficult.
Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure. I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.
There is no way that is actually printing anywhere near 250 mm/s. Like you said in your pinned comment it is limited by the acceleration but also remember that your other printer was only 50 mm/s on some parts, the outer walls were 25 mm/s. At 250 mm/s it would be able to go right across the build plate in about a second. If I had to guess I would think you are probably getting maybe around 100 mm/s max when printing that benchy.
Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it
As a first buyer for 3D Printers I was wondering if you could tell me which would be better quality and faster between the Creality 3 S1 or the Creality 3 S1 pro
my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.
You guys are totally right! The actual printing speed of the M5 will definitely be further limited by acceleration. As I mentioned, the 5X speed advertised is mostly a marketing gimmick but acceleration is another important limiting factor to consider. A misstep on my part!
Too bad they dont sell at bestbuy under the total tech warranty!
@@darith27 total tech will still cover this! No matter what for replacement for 2 years. I’m a manager I promise you this Darith. Thanks for being a meme bee if you are one. But yeah speak to any manager there. They’ll tell you it’s cover for replacement for electronics damages.
i was looking for a good beginner printer, do you still think the ender is the best or are there any other options?
@@Mewtwo-xi5og it was never the best option. It was the cheapest option. Now everyone else makes a slightly better one, and creality makes a lot of much more expensive ones that are still flawed in the same ways.
Sovol Sv06 is a decent printer.
The truth is, the public doesn't have a "3D printer," it's essentially a *3D Element Solder* machine. And why it's so slow. To actually do a "3D printing." It must solder in a full strip line at any one sliding longitude/latitude/altitude flow per layer make.
Please comeback broo
Please come back, your videos are amazing!
Yeah Matt, I loved your videos! Come back plz.
1 YEAR , broo .... how are you ?
You should look into a bamboo labs printer. The p1p is around the same price and offers 10x the printing speeds at good quality. And the x1 has the ai features that work for the most part.
Elon musk
I personally own an X1C and can confirm it is the best printer I have ever used. Also the base speed is higher then what we are seeing here.
They are also a lot bigger, and the P1P is $100 cheaper. This printer gets absolutely blown out of the water by both.
@@HarryPorpise yep there’s a reason the Bambu labs printers are being used by literally everyone. They’ve change the entire industry.
10x the speed of M5? No. Don't get me wrong, P1P is great and mighty actually be a better choice but it is NOT 10x faster.
Hi, great video, I just wanted to clarify one thing. When you talk about speed you have to take into consideration acceleration too. Even if you set a speed of 250mm/s if you printer is limited by low accelerations, it will never reach that speed. Another thing to keep in mind, especially for vase mode, is layer time. Usually the slicer makes the printer move slow enough to give time to the layer to cool down before printing the next one. This could influence the real printing speed.
In general it is a great machine, considering his cartesian kinematics
Hey Matt, we miss ya. Your videos are so clear, helpful and interesting. Hope your doin well
Just what happen?
guys, whats going on, he's coming back right, why hasnt he posted in like 9 months
idk he is not active on any platforms
I hope he's ok
why did u stop making videos?
The 3d printer killed him
Bro died because of the A.I.
Ankermake k¡lled him because of the negative stuff he said at the end.
Just kidding, they aren’t Boeing.
@@sgs_ terminator
Skibidi
Anger is easily one of the best tech companies imo. They make amazing VR stuff as well as amazing 3d print and other stuff
Where have you been? No new FPV videos in a long time.
Bro, where'd you go???
He forgot bambulab existed
True I have a Bambu lab and Its Munch faster than this printer
Ikr
Yea, i got the P1P: 20,000mm/s2
@@leoturlock1335doesent exist
The z offset requirement on your ender 3 is because the probe is separate from the nozzle. On the anchor make it uses the nozzle itself for probing so it knows exactly what The z offset is already.
Havn't finished watching it but came here to say you should try the BambuLabs X1 Carbon or even P1P. I think the P1P is more in this price range (actually cheaper) and better.
Finished watching now. Another great video. Love the honesty and always respect your opinions! How's the FPV flying been?
Exactly what I thought!
100% Anker's biggest mistake is staying with a bed slinger. This limits the speed of tall thin objects. My X1C is incredible, and has changed my entire perspective on 3d printing- and I've been printing for over 10 years! Started with a Solidoodle.
@@Jwmbike14 same! Been printing for 10 years now. I went from a wooden Replicator and finally "upgraded" to a Duplicator i3 machine a few years ago because it was $100 and found that was a bigger problem than i would have thought. Not only that it also moves the parts through the air, effectively cooling parts when you don't want to. Learned even though it could print at 120mm/s at first it would have to be lowered the higher and heavier the print gets. While my old Replicator could print at 160mm/s perfectly (when printing via USB, offloading the board processing).
I picked up a Creality Sermoon D1 last year for $275, on clearance and open box. Going back to a solid bed had made prints far better since. Far more predictable prints and i can run it at 250mm/s 2,500 acceleration without an issue. Anything faster and the board can't keep up, needs faster electronics. I generally run it at 200mm/s 1,000 acceleration to keep it quiet, can barely hear it outside the closet it lives in.
*Should note tons of custom mods done to my old Replicator
i was gonna say the same thing
I may add the Ankermate to a fleet of printers at some point, but I gotta say, I love the versatility of the Ender series (or any printer based on generic aluminum extrusions in general). There is just more customizability in those printers with a HUGE following an support. I'd be interested in the future upgradability for Anker printers.
Come back bro 😢
Dude your videos are so insanly high quality, keep up the work man! It's always a pleasure to watch. Stay consistant and your audience will 100% catch up to your quality
Bot
@@cayden2407 no monkey business
The content of this video is great, but the editi is SO far beyond amazing and seriously helps convey your points.
Glad to see a new video of you again.
I don’t know you that long but man this quality and effort you put into your videos is insane
While it's a nice looking printer, it definitely feels like a big swing and a miss. You can get an Ender 3 S1 pro for $500 cad cheaper. With that savings you can buy a Wyze cam to check on your prints and still have $450 left over to buy filament. It just seems to me like Anker spent too much on getting this up and running and are trying to recoup their money by overcharging their customers. Either way great video Matt, happy to see you're making content again.
Well, yes you can get better perfomance for cheaper, but definitly not get better user experience for new 3d printing noobs. This 3d printer is geared for new people, you will definitly not get even get 150 mm/s without a lot of tinkering, flow calibration, linear advance and pressure advance tuning etc. Also this one is made to look good to consumers, not just for makers. So while it definitly isnt made for you and me, i dont think its a useless product. Its like a prusa, where you pay 1000€ for a normal bedslinger with outdated hardware, but get decent user Xp aswell.
Or you can just get a Bambu p1p 🤷🏻
@@aepfelpfluecker what? For that money you can get a prusa, and there’s nothing more reliable (and has an better out of the box experience) than one of their printers…
@@erebostd The Prusa i3 MK3s+ is a solid printer but the build-it-yourself kit cost $799, as much at the M5. That kit takes 6-8 hours to assemble, assuming the person doing the assembly has some basic mechanical skills. The M5 takes 10-20 minutes to set up and comes with an extra build plate, Prusa will send a second plate for an extra 35-40 bucks. I don't hate Prusa printers and for a long time they were king of the hill but they really haven't been innovating the last 4-5 years and their new large format printer has been plagued with delays and they refuse to release important information about specs and performance. Just to clarify they are taking money, 2000-4000 dollars on pre-orders, and haven't even told people the expected performance of the machine yet.
@@JaredCoiner if the reliability isn’t your concern, I’d get the P1P. It’s faster and has a better print quality than the ankermake. In my view the ankermake has competition on both ends. Prusa if you want a workhorse, and the P1P if you want fast, good prints… ruclips.net/video/5uBBnHZ080w/видео.html
Matt, I work in IT asset management, and we were impacted by the chip shortage, where sub contractors kept moving ship dates due to COVID. This makes sense that Anker had these issues around the same time. Totally not their fault. You can't get blood from a stone.
I miss this absolute Legend
Hey Matt as a fellow Canadian I just wanted to let you know Bott Grinder just mentioned you as one of the most honest FPV you tubers and hoped everything was ok with you as do I.. you are who I watch the most getting into FPV . Where did you go?
For that price, you just buy a P1P or some coreXY printer, this design isn't ment to print fast but to be cheap to produce.
@MarrPochwat We miss you!!!!
7 month .. Where are you now ?
Everyone with a Bambu Lab printer: 👀
Me, rocking my solidoodle 4 that's like 10 years old. I slightly modified it. Very accurate.
It's 800$ if anyone is wondering. (maybe I missed it in the video, but I think it's interesting to know.) Great Video!
This video comes across something like an ad. The bed slinging kinematic system, especially with a large heavy bed like this, is the hardest to make fast, and certainly not 5x faster out of the box. Having a "print speed" of 150 instead of 30 is not "5x faster" because the limiting factor is acceleration, and most of the time that giant bed will be moving less than 50 mm/s with typical acceleration settings suitable for it.
i upgraded my cr10s pro v2s, increased weight with bitumen plates, added z-sync / rods, volcano hotend, cooling, linear rails, 0.9 steppers, klipper. it's a monster now, can literally do 3500 accel Y (x could do 12k) without any ghosting (suggested by resonsance test), 7000 accel with minor ghosting. print speeds ~150mm default for good looking parts, up to 300 if quality doesnt matter. even stock 90mm/s was perfect with this one. biggest upgrade was getting rid of creality motors, when you turn them they are grindy compared to the act motors i use.
Fantastic video man! First time seeing any of your content and wow! really nicely done! Also fully agree with everything you said here about the M5 - rocksolid printer but man oh man does that AI detection stink.
We are exactly the same right now. Never seen Matt's content and it is very high quality! AnkerMake is working on AI detection, thankfully. At least it isnt really really needed. M5 doesnt really fail often
Thanks man! Recently stumbled on a few of your videos too as I got interested in 3D printing. Good stuff!
I find it funny how people are astounded by some new printers' speeds, while my 11 year old *wooden* little Ultimaker 1.0 blasts higher speeds than many at absolutely insane quality that left many of my Prusa MK3+ owning friends lost for words - down to 0.04mm layers in minute details :)
you should try a Bambu Labs X1C with AMS...its an amazing piece of machine!
7:15 Side by side comparison with two completely different models... Nice!
matt whare are you i mis your videos
When showing a speed comparison try to show the same geometry being printed, it gives a far better indication of speed and acceleration differences.
Why arent you uploading anymore you were a big help when is started looking for my first fpv gear :(
You CAN when printing your 3D model from the Ankermake Slicer to not generate an AI image, so the AI detection wont be applied
It would be nice if the slicer could detect difficult spots and automatically print those portions of the print slower so you get the advantages of the increased speed whilst not compromising on quality and less risk of failed prints.
Unless thats already a thing and I've just never noticed it lol
The auto bed level corrects issues like this by micro-lifting and lowering around the build plate. As everything wears down you need to auto level regularly. Its like how the Bambu X1C take 10 minutes to start it's prints, which thank god you can turn off... AnkerMake simply doesn't force you to do it.
@@echo-hotel Thats not really what I'm talking about, more so the printer would slow down and maybe print at different layer heights automatically for certain areas of a print. Like it'll print large simple sections of a figurine quickly then slow down for the face.
@@acorgiwithacrown467 You're looking for the variable layer height setting. Otherwise slowing down is just your accelerations: it won't reach high speeds before it has to decelerate. Of course, nothing stops you from slapping on modifiers that set reduced speeds and accelerations for a given print area...
The Ankermake can do 500 mm/s2, while a Creality K1 series can do up to 600 mm/s2, while also having the AI Camera on the K1C and Max, and being an Optional add on on the base K1, and being enclosed and with other features.
For the AI detection, add a poster-board behind the printer as a 'Quiet Background' to give it a better chance of accurate detection You may need to play with colors, rinse and repeat.
I just want to say thank you because I used a small part of your video in a video of my clients
BambuLab has entered the chat
*Unreliable and un serviceable china product has entered the chat.
@@LilApe Literally every 3d printer company lol
@@zacharylewis417 Ever heard of prusa?
-Made in EU
-Arguably the most reliable printer money can buy. Mine has 10k+hrs, zero replaced parts.
-100% serviceable and repairable.
We have 2 M5's and a full-blown Ultimate s5. I would rather use the M5! Ankermaker did a wonderful job at design, materials, and manufacturing. Their slicer to print over wifi works great. I hope they make a bigger enclosed model for ABS and other high temp plastics.
I just got my third printer. First was a BIQU B1, second Ender 3 Max, and now Ender 3 V3 SE. The V3 has all these features at a fraction of the cost. It prints fast enough it made me wonder if the filament had time to stick. My print speed is 180 consistently. I’m thoroughly impressed with the Ender 3 V3 SE.
I've had 3 Creality machines. They are good for a few months, MAYBE a year. Then the sub par stuff starts to break and wear out. The M5 is a totally different machine. That entire base is cast aluminum. It's more rigid than any printer I've ever experienced.
After nine months, what do you think, please? I would like to buy one.
This is the printer I have! This was my first printer and I love it!
This was a really great/well-done video. I'm just getting into 3D printing myself and this video really helped as well as answered a lot of my initial questions.
Try the Ender V3 KE. My one prints at 300mm a second no problem and at its top speed, the boat takes like 16 minutes.
4:43 literally every printer has the extrude and retract feature. With Klipper it’s just a simple with their web based UI and you can do it from your cell phone from across your house.
The latest firmware update has changed the AI a lot and it has gotten way better. Also, low light with black filament gives lots of false readings with the AI. This machine is my go-to machine ... as a matter of fact we just bought a second one.
$1600 for 2 printers? lol id rather get 8 normal priced printers
@@2stroketyson79 Not sure what's funny about buying two high quality $800 products instead of 8 diy toys that eat your time with troubleshooting.
@@Draxi_1 Normal "DIY toys" are made in much the same way: V-rollers on a V-slot, uprights. Anker has a downside in lacking an anchored-down bed, although for a bedslinger the sheer mass of the bed should be enough to keep it in the slots. For this price an enthusiast machine would be expected to supply a superior motion system, either linear rods (Prusa) or for more modern lineages, linear rails. Both are more rigid, reduce vibration and oscillation, thus requiring less input shaping effort and allowing higher speeds at lower maintenance and higher precision than V-rollers.
Someone competent enough to need 8 printers in a farm will almost certainly have the know-how to ensure an Ender 3 to be reliable. Besides, when it comes to proprietaries, for 800 bucks you can have the Bambulabs P1P, a CoreXY machine with a much higher speed ceiling and overall capabilities than the Ankermake. It's able to hang up there with the RepRaps like the Vorons, VZBots, or Ratrigs in speed and quality. M5... Just cannot keep up with that, it's the fundamental limitation of the Carthesian bedslinger system. It also has to pick a fight with another bedslinger in Prusa Mk.4 now, which is a superior offering in every way.
A smart thing they could do to improve the AI would be a feedback system fro custom printing.
Think like Tesla FSD.
My suggestion is to allow connecting a mobile phone to it.
Let the user report back failed printings.
Submit the recording -- at least the beginning of the failure -- back.
I'm sure many of the customers would like to support improving the printer by doing this extra work.
It's a community, I guess!
Just an idea!
You didn't mention how long did it take to print benchy on new machine. Was it 5 times faster?? Matt, you are missing a huge point when you are talking about the printing speed. You can set whatever speed you want but acceleration is a major limiting factor and on small prints such as benchy or other test prints you demonstrated it will never reach the desired speed. And mentioned acceleration for the printer up to 2500mm/s is actually pretty low for "fast printer". Also if you are talking about fast printing you must mention whether there are resonance compensation as this is new standard now. Another missing point is extrusion volume, but at low speeds which were demonstrated its not an issue.
Also in slicer speeds for different types of lines are different. External perimeters, inner perimeters, infill etc, and they are usually by default significantly lower than basic speed.
Anyway, try to print at 150mm/s for every line type with acceleration at least above 5000mm/s^2.
I watched like halfway and realised their whole argument was completely flawed. This is just another e3 clone with fancy marketing.
Only comes with one build plate for us who do not do reviews. But it is a good plate and dual-sided
The P1P destroys this in both speed and quality.. it’s probably at least x2 faster, not not just marking speeds but x2 faster in actual print time
P1P is also unreliable and un servicabble, designed to be thrown away.
@@LilApe Who said that ? I have mine for almost 4 months and it's running as day 1. No problems at all. And it's not designed to be thrown awys maybe get surpassed by a new version as all products like the new Iphones every year.
@@ilvegetariano3836 What are you going to do when the CF rods and graphite bushings wear out? You can't replace them, as they're epoxied in place and BL doesn't sell the parts for them. And BL has said that the rods and bushings are non serviceable...So what are you going to do? You either throw it out, or send back to BL for repair.
My first working* printer, the DreamMaker Overlord Pro(Deltaprinter), from 2016 printed at 100mm/s according to the official specs, but you could push it higher if you didn't care for finish.(150mm/s was possible) Oh, and it did sensorless bedlevelling... And since it was a Delta printer with Bowden type extruder, it could accellerate like nothing else.
I'm currently rebuilding it... slowly, very slowly, and hoping for higher speeds.
*The Mendel Prusa I built a few years before out of printed parts and threaded rods... never really worked properly.
Tbh all i need is something to print a tiny camera mount and arm guards for my quad. What's the minimum I can get?
You should try BambuLab machines - they're faster and more advanced. Print quality is also incredible. Comparing features to AnkerMake, Bambulab is a stiff competitor that seems to have won out.
I've heard a lot of good things! Would love to try one.
People need to stop supporting bambu lab until they get their QC issues figures out, stop supporting poor build quality.
I didn’t know ankermake send their 3d printer premiere out to test for free by average persons (your own words.)
I do appreciate your uploaded information, so thanks for sharing!
This looks like a huge step forward in speed and performance, even though the AI is unfinished.
But, at 4 TIMES the price I paid for my Ender 3 ($200 shipped), at $800, this is not affordable for most people.
RUclips channel CHEP, has made different printing profiles that significantly speed up the time it takes to print with an Ender 3! Quality is still good too. These profiles may make an 8 hour print take 4.5 hours, so significantly less time and still reasonable quality. Several options too.
Highly suggested!!!! 😎🤘
What a great review, Matt! Nicely done and so detailed! 👍
I always print at around 40 mm/s or even slower. For example, if I want to print something that takes 3 hours, there is no big difference if I print at 120 mm/s or 80 mm/s, it's just 1 or 2 hours faster. However, the printing quality is perfect.
That's because you print small things. And your acceleration is also not high enough. You may as well try printing at 1000mm/s, it'll never hit that speed with small parts + low accelerations.
@@alejandroperez5368 I am not. I also print big things
When thinking about quality, the more points it has the better the calculations of the beds stability.
Just finished my under 7 minute Benchy on my 350€ the100 3d printer...
Looks good with loads of features and nearly no setup but too expensive unfortunately.
Tip for starting out in CAD: if your designing a model with some tolerance needed just print out a section of the print to test, eg for your phone holder you could print like 10-15mm height of the model to check phone fits well first. 😊
Good advice. I started doing this on longer prints.
"M5, we will survive! Nothing can hurt you; I gave you that. You are great, I am great...
Best parts of the video are the warning at the end, well put, and the editing master judo move at 14:25.
I do want to mention that the Bambu labs p1p does accelerate up to 2000mm/s ^2 and uses the vibrations to make it faster.
5:50
The stepper motor on the Y axis is the same as the ender 5 pro I have.
You can put a dual y axis belt mod on any ender 3.
Linear rails instead of pom wheels are a much better way to spend your money.
The "leaver" on top of the extruder can actually be used to change filaments. Just push it down and you can feed or pull out the filament
Hello "Matt Pochwat"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
I literally today went into ur profile to see how u're doing and now it turns out you've uploaded a video
Always love seeing a new video from you! Great work
What happened to the channel?? It’s been a year
looks like a very solid printer even the ai cam doesnt work. i like it
Managed to get my Ender 3 v3 to go slightly above this printers, max printing speed completely stock somehow. and the print quality has not been affected.
There are multiple levels to the AI. Also you need to fix you lighting perfectly for the best results. I have White, Black and Gray boards that go on the opposite side of the camera to provide contrast to the filament color. With a lot of added lighting of the right temperature, I think on the warmer side, it starts to function really well. When I hate it setup for nighttime prints I get notified of every error. But this means I have four lights pointed at it from every direction. And of course to pinned at the camera or creating hot spots.
Yes the software isn't ready yet. But light anything with a 3D printer you need to work with it and not against it. A contrasting build plate would be nice as the only color I have a problem with is black. But who knows if that'd freak out the software or not right now.
Please note anyone buying a new one, it only comes with one build plate. Also I think my camera looks better than his.
The slicer is actually pretty good. It's not on the level of other slicers at all. But it is solid. It just works. You want to do art learn to slice elsewhere and drop into ankermake. You want to print a ton of boxes easy mode is all you need.
Want nearly full 250mm/s, print boxes and circles. This goes for my Bambu X1C as well. It's faster, but it slows down on complicated prints, or at least you need to make it do so. Between these two I chose the AnkerMake for new designs. It's plenty fast enough to model something and prototype it on the AnkerMake then mass produce on the X1C.
You can actually go beyond 250mm/s lol... Don't do it. It's fun but it will fail.
So negatives:
1) Clearly the AI needs major work. But they have improved it multiple times. During the day now I can take away all but one light.
2) Replacement parts are hard to get.
3) They don't sell extra build plates as of (03-17-2023)
4) If you notice an error and want to pause you can but you can't lift the hotend to clear the nozzle or use the extrude feature that is there but needs the nozzle lifted! lol?!? This isn't a huge negative, just an oversight I think they'll fix eventually. And most other printers can't reset properly after being lifted anyway.
5) The ability to turn the printer off. You can leave it on all day and it appears to not use must power and the temp is basically room temperature... But come on this would be an awesome feature to remotely turn it off or put it in sleep mode.
That's about it. Everything else would be outside of their control and specific to a persons needs. Even the AI camera isn't important for everyone. It simply works. And if it doesn't try a different filament. That's the one advice I'd give anyone with any printer, get different brand filaments and you'll find one that is a good baseline for dialing in your printer. Currently it's Overture Matte White for me. Works well with retraction and clearing out gunk. But look around for your own.
Bed slingers are old tech now. Nothing close to $600 is valid to spend $ on anymore because of the Bambu Labs P1P. Because of this we will see printers drop in price dramatically. You can get an Ender 7 at Matter Hackers for less than $400 ATM, and it has linear rails on the XY (please don't buy an ender unless you want to mod)
The Anycubic cobra 2 max has a top speed of 500 millimeters a second with a 420x420x500 mm build area for a low price
Missing the videos! Just got my first drone with the DJI goggles loving it!
Now everyone is going to want gopro mounts from you.
TPU is an advanced material. I don't think a beginner would use it and a more experienced person would logically understand that it needs to print slower. I think this is a really good an fast printer for the price you pay for it normally. Good call on the AI though. Thanks for your video!.
You should see the bambu lab A1 mini its very high quality and one of the fastest printers out there
FYI y'all for this price point you can get a Core XY Printer aka like the Bambu Lab P1S.
Lol I printed that boat benchy on my X1C in under 13 minutes and the quality at that speed is nuts how well it come out
05:57 That shot!! Either this is some wizardry or you got yourself one of those MKBHD $250K robot arms 😅
Where did this guy go? Its been 5months
I haven't watched the whole video, but I just want to say that I can get my ender 3 (not V2, not pro) to print at 125mm/s with 2k acceleration. My voron 2.4 can print at 300mm/s with 7k acceleration. It's not the Anker that is fast, it's how you calibrate and set up your printer. The limiting factors are bed slingers, nozzle flow rate, and hotend cooling. Get you a printer that isn't a bed slinger, upgrade the hotend to high flow, and get good part cooling fans and you will be able to print at 200mm/s easy once you get everything dialed in
It was hard to find a replacement build plate for your Ender3? Have you never used the site called Amazon? Are you possibly a Bing user?
I know a lot of people don't buy the speed thing but go try printing a benchy at 250m/s on an ender 3. Even with tweaking settings and machine mods it's difficult.
That V2 phone mount would be sick if you made a circle cut out on the back to fit a magsafe charger!
nice review. u got me into making stuff on youtube. your the best thanks
u got along way too go but dont let the comments go to your hart just keep editing all vids and try writing a script
Quick question. I'm new to 3D printing. But something you said in this video got me thinking. You mentioned how it is possible to have defects in your print, or even an outright failure.
I'm not sure if these are always from a bad design or something literally just going wrong in the print execution process. But in case of bad design I don't see why someone couldn't develop a print simulator. Something that goes through the motions of printing the design electronically only (not physically). In that way it would only take a few seconds to complete because it is only limited by the speed of the processor and memory.
There is no way that is actually printing anywhere near 250 mm/s. Like you said in your pinned comment it is limited by the acceleration but also remember that your other printer was only 50 mm/s on some parts, the outer walls were 25 mm/s. At 250 mm/s it would be able to go right across the build plate in about a second. If I had to guess I would think you are probably getting maybe around 100 mm/s max when printing that benchy.
Have you never used the Bambu Labs X1? Out of the box prints more than twice as fast- SUPER easy to use! I've had one print fail due to using Carbon PLA and bad layer adhesion for complicated support structure. Would really recommend it
AI Cam, "Print Failed." Cutting edge tech right there.
As a first buyer for 3D Printers I was wondering if you could tell me which would be better quality and faster between the Creality 3 S1 or the Creality 3 S1 pro
my skirt and first layer are at 60mms then the rest of the print is 120mms. i use .4 and .6mm nozzles depending on how big the print is. I use the same settings on 2 printers. i have a longer lk4 pro (ender 3) and a longer lk5 pro (cr10). the lk5 pro will print way faster than the lk4 pro because it has the extra supports that significantly stiffen up the z "tower". and i have all upgraded steppers and dual z steppers. But i leave the settings the same so the files are interchangeable. Even with the bigger bed of the lk5 i can use lk4 files itll just be off center when it prints. i have a ton of upgrades but even stock both of my printers were great. there is absolutely no need to buy expensive printers when there are amazing cheap(ish) printers that exist.
3:36 you can adjust how many bed probing points your printer does in the configuration file