I'm a data engineering manager who spends all my free time drywalling and staining and tinkering with my home with no previous experience. I have watched so many of your videos and they have helped immensely. I appreciate you coalescing a personality with being matter of fact. It really makes these enjoyable.
I bought Milwaukee tapered countersink bit for $12 in Lowe's, and found it more than adequate when drilling about 300 holes in dense poplar. Also I wish I had seen your video when it's been posted, as I had no idea at that time about depth gauge existence what might help me a ton in my project. Anyway, great video as always.
I bought the $45 one from Lee Valley. I gives by far the best finish and is adjustable and I can sharpen it with a diamond hone. But… it packs up with shavings and needs frequent cleaning out.
It still definitely gonna work 😂 You’re killing me 🤭 I’m starting a new job as framer next week. Thanks to you, I have now have confidence to get into the trade. Cheers 🍻
@Philip More like save your back from packing a heaving hammer in your tool belt. Carpenters don't hand nail anymore. It's all nail guns and impact guns for screws. If I need a nail to hold a chalk line or something, I have to tear one off a air nail strip. Also, a hammer is probably much harder on your wrist and elbow than shoulder. A wooden handle hammer is still the best shock absorber and is lighter than any other handle materials.
A good countersink is invaluable. I bought an odd shaped countersink, i believe it was designed for metalwork , it looks like the Chiloskit 3 flute bit. And it cuts into wood like butter and has not gotten dull after 2 years. I've built multiple benches and a couple cabinets & a shed. It doesn't have the drill bit, but thats ok with me because its so fast.
The good ones aren't cheap but Id much rather pay a bit more for something that actually works. I bought a set oof countersink bits, put them down in my garage where I thought "I'll remember they are there" and haven't been able to find them since! I didnt even get a chance to use them.
Hate to say it but I was expecting a mediocre go on the ramp but wow you’re the real deal! Ive been saving up to resurface my halfpipe with garolite/G10/FR4 (what skatelite really is). The carbide tipped counter sink bit will come in handy!
Learned so much from your channel man. I appreciate all that you have done. Learning so much about all the trades and being able to stand on my feet is a blessing. Thanks to people like you I have been able to learn and teach myself much quicker.
The problem with oscillating blades is that they inherently wear out quickly, even the good ones, due to the cutting action of the tool. Unlike other sawing tools, they don’t automatically clear the dust from the material creating friction, creating heat, wearing out the blade quicker. So In order to maintain the longevity you constantly have to stop cutting to clear out the dust. A lot of times the extra time sink just isn’t worth it. Not to mention good oscillating blades are so damn expensive compared to other quality blades ($30 for three osc. blades vs $25 for three circ saw blades). Plus you can clean and sharpen old circular blades, a lot harder to do with oscillating blades. I love my multi tool, but I only use it when it’s the only option and even then I have both cheap and quality blades on hand depending on the job.
mmmm carbide. that said I have a lot of hours on the old style bits You can and should sharpen them. you need a fine ( preferably white) wheel on your bench grinder, and it needs to be dressed flat and with a sharp corner. doing this right is easier than sharpening drill bits oh with the drill bits breaking they tend to break less if you have solid shank past the end of the countersink. there are some drill bits with more solid shank n less flute or break the drill bit off short and resharpen it with less fluted section
Lol, i might have 2 or 3 cheap countersink bit sets (with variable sizes of drill bit through holes) and maybe used 1 bit on 1 project. So yes i am still in my 15 years :) Thanks for showing though, might stop buying those cheap ones. At least untill i have smoked those i allready have.
the best Countersinks for the Money are made by Fuller they have been manufacturing Drilling Accessories in the same location for around 200years minus a short time when one facility burned down they do offer HSS and Carbide tipped versions some of mine are more than 30years old the HSS ones i have will dull but i keep a Jewlers file set in my ToolBox and can Dress them up in under a minute on my ToolBoxes i screwed a small peice of Hardwood and i drilled holes to “hold the Countersinks so i can run a file over the Cutting Edge BTW i’ve never had to do anything to the Carbide tipped ones the big Box Stores don’t carry them as i’m sure they don’t meet their low cost purchase pricing to make high profits i usually order inbulk from Tools Today or Tools OnSale as i had a team of IArchitectual Woodwork Installers and i kept them in my work Van to sell to them for Cost as a Conveinence all 40 of my Employees used the Fuller brand they are also Made inThe U.S.A. i forget off the top of my head exactly but i think it’s inNew England and it’s been on the same Property for that 200 years Ironically i saw NormAbrams years ago using that brand on the New Yankee Workshop Show the name of the Company is WLFuller but everyone calls it Fuller they are Pricey but can last you a Lifetime if you properly take care of them
fast and quick are not quite the same, fast can be attributed to top speed, quick can be attributed to time between actions - a car can be fast but it won't be quick if it has a 20 speed transmission and it takes 30 mins to get to top speed :) sincerely, mr pedant
That’s a awfully shallow ramp you built there mister Vancouver carpenter. I figured you as one who would go over board and build one with 8 to 10ft walls on it, I mean a real ankle or neck breaker! 😂😂😂😂
Stick to what you do best, you're really clueless in counter sink decking bits. The only ones to get are quality TCT like P&N from Sutton with adjustable non marking depth stops. Otherwise manually controlling the counter sink depth of cut like the ones your recommending and displaying on a deck of say 4,000 screws will eventually leave you with carpal tunnel syndrome. So, keep quibble about the price, and reap what you sow.
Ben is awesome. I wish that his channel would blow up. I would love to see a co-lab with Stud Pack. I know that they do work in Washington on occasion. Maybe been can get his passport and do some international travel to meet up with the guys
More carpentry tips from my favorite drywall channel? What has this world come too? :) Excellent advice, and thanks for sharing your learning experience.
Never dad a use for countersink bits but now I know what I’ll be getting if I need one. I take they come in different sizes depending on the size of screw head you’re using or working with.
Amana makes a really nice one that also has a depth stop, so you get a uniform hole without trying. You may cry when you buy, but every time you use it will be an error-free pleasure. Kind of like Fisch Black Shark Forstner bits.
First this is a great video. This is excellent info. Oddly I got interrupted after my first pintrest comment and I am seeing your responses while I am watching the video which is kind of fun and weird at the same time lolol
"feather that like button" is a great reminder!!!! I don't often think of it until you say something. have you seen an improvement statistically since throwing that in? just curious. thanks for another great video!!!
Oh man, you redeemed yourself. As this video progressed, I was feeling more and more resentful and frustrated by the lack of graceful trowel work. But, then you skated, and you skated well! Sidenote: I remember making some seriously shameful launch ramps and quarter pipes using siding nails splintering half-decayed plywood - it's always a treat to break through that stuff. I believe that would have been on my Alva Bill Danforth. Anyhow, that's a very handsome ramp!
I just saw your Guardz video, and thought I'd ask here, as you seem very knowledgeable. And honest. I have a very serious issue with oil based primer that was applied in my bedroom closet. The room in now unusable because the off gas. Prevents me from sleeping in my bedroom. Is there anything I can coat the Kilz Oil Based Primer, in my bedroom closet, that would seal in the off gas? Who would be the best people to ask? Painters? Contractors? I've tried many. So far no solution. Any help would be God send.
Hi there… Sorry to be so nosey. I actually just oil primed some stuff myself…have used the stuff for years…and actually had my own decorating company way back. Covering the oil with latex as soon as possible will begin to stop the stink as soon as you paint it. You’ll prob still smell a little thru that but it’s minimal and goes away quickly. Some things I’ve noticed over the years: An open flame (furnace, stove, clothes dryer) will make the smell even worse! The reaction they have together smells horrible…but in my experiences, it hurries up the process a little bit of it going away quicker. I hope any of that rambling on helps…lol Peace✌🏼
@@briansierzega I was told by other painters, that latex being water based. The kilz primer will just seep right through it. Incidentally, I kept a heater in the bedroom which turned up the temperature. And this made it off gas more quickly. But while it is mild now, the air quality in that room is not good. If latex paint is water based. How will it seal in the off gas from the oil based primer, which is quite strong. Will push through the latex, from what I was told. Some people recommended AFM Safecoat, which is a water based polyurethane. I spoke to the owner. He claims they use it on brand new hard wood floors, to seal in the off gas. But he said he could not gaurantee that it would stop the Kilz Oil Based Primer off gas. And that's polyurethane. How is water based, latex paint. Which to my understanding is permeable. How could that seal in the off gas from the primer? Thank you by the way, for taking the time to respond.
@@vancouvercarpenter I just replied to the comment above with more details. From the painters I spoke to, latex being water based, would not seal in the off gas from the oil based primer. Have you ever had success in sealing oil based primer with latex? (I sent you an email as well. Thanks for any help that you can give).
@@taljones1 Glad to help! Latex paint in general sits on the surface when applied while oil based paints soak into its surfaces, and is why they make for excellent primers and stain blockers. That being said, yes, the oil will seep back into the latex paint to a certain extent. You probably will notice a tiny amount of the oil smell (like I do right now with the repair I made), but the topcoat of latex paint will trap most of it. It’s kind of like that new car smell that fades over time…
I do patchwork after plumbing repipes and have had a difficult time not leaving an edge when I mud even when I feather super tight. I think it’s the old ceiling texture, not sure if I should sand some of the old texture before?
I'm a data engineering manager who spends all my free time drywalling and staining and tinkering with my home with no previous experience. I have watched so many of your videos and they have helped immensely. I appreciate you coalescing a personality with being matter of fact. It really makes these enjoyable.
Thank you!
I bought Milwaukee tapered countersink bit for $12 in Lowe's, and found it more than adequate when drilling about 300 holes in dense poplar. Also I wish I had seen your video when it's been posted, as I had no idea at that time about depth gauge existence what might help me a ton in my project. Anyway, great video as always.
Vancouver Carpenter, you really seem to be enjoying your skateboard ramp. Good. Thanks for the video.
Great info. Also I must say I’m impressed with your skating! 😃👍🏼
I bought the $45 one from Lee Valley.
I gives by far the best finish and is adjustable and I can sharpen it with a diamond hone.
But… it packs up with shavings and needs frequent cleaning out.
It still definitely gonna work 😂
You’re killing me 🤭
I’m starting a new job as framer next week. Thanks to you, I have now have confidence to get into the trade.
Cheers 🍻
@Philip More like save your back from packing a heaving hammer in your tool belt. Carpenters don't hand nail anymore. It's all nail guns and impact guns for screws. If I need a nail to hold a chalk line or something, I have to tear one off a air nail strip. Also, a hammer is probably much harder on your wrist and elbow than shoulder. A wooden handle hammer is still the best shock absorber and is lighter than any other handle materials.
A good countersink is invaluable. I bought an odd shaped countersink, i believe it was designed for metalwork , it looks like the Chiloskit 3 flute bit. And it cuts into wood like butter and has not gotten dull after 2 years. I've built multiple benches and a couple cabinets & a shed.
It doesn't have the drill bit, but thats ok with me because its so fast.
The good ones aren't cheap but Id much rather pay a bit more for something that actually works. I bought a set oof countersink bits, put them down in my garage where I thought "I'll remember they are there" and haven't been able to find them since! I didnt even get a chance to use them.
Festoon makes an amazing countersink bit with depth stop, worth every penny.
Not even a drywall video and he say feather!
You heard of carbide scrapers? Brilliant for scrapping paint off of wood work. Thanks again!
Hate to say it but I was expecting a mediocre go on the ramp but wow you’re the real deal! Ive been saving up to resurface my halfpipe with garolite/G10/FR4 (what skatelite really is). The carbide tipped counter sink bit will come in handy!
Learned so much from your channel man. I appreciate all that you have done. Learning so much about all the trades and being able to stand on my feet is a blessing. Thanks to people like you I have been able to learn and teach myself much quicker.
Great video. I've had similar experience with cheap oscillating tool blades.
Side note, this video tells me we need to see a collab with Project Farm!
The problem with oscillating blades is that they inherently wear out quickly, even the good ones, due to the cutting action of the tool. Unlike other sawing tools, they don’t automatically clear the dust from the material creating friction, creating heat, wearing out the blade quicker. So In order to maintain the longevity you constantly have to stop cutting to clear out the dust. A lot of times the extra time sink just isn’t worth it. Not to mention good oscillating blades are so damn expensive compared to other quality blades ($30 for three osc. blades vs $25 for three circ saw blades). Plus you can clean and sharpen old circular blades, a lot harder to do with oscillating blades.
I love my multi tool, but I only use it when it’s the only option and even then I have both cheap and quality blades on hand depending on the job.
Cheap multi tool blades, damn things cost as much as a good skilsaw blade, biggest scam in tool history.
That looks like the most fun ramp.. it's the perfect size for us old dudes!
It is!
The smoke seemed to be mostly from the flutes of the twist drill becoming clogged with wood, rather than the countersink.
You get TWO likes, one for the tool tip and one for that awesome quarter pipe. 👏
like button feathered, good sir, thanks for the tips
Nice haircut!
As usual, a fantastic video! ... However, I believe the comparison is incorrect due to the use of two different drills/battery volts
Nice weights and weight racks. You should use them.
mmmm carbide.
that said
I have a lot of hours on the old style bits
You can and should sharpen them.
you need a fine ( preferably white) wheel on your bench grinder, and it needs to be dressed flat and with a sharp corner.
doing this right is easier than sharpening drill bits
oh with the drill bits breaking
they tend to break less if you have solid shank past the end of the countersink.
there are some drill bits with more solid shank n less flute or break the drill bit off short and resharpen it with less fluted section
Thanks :)
Are you listening into my simulation?! I was just talking about this earlier today!!
I get your point and agree, but why use two different drills for your test??
I only use tapered countersink bits.
7:45 HA HA HA! This guy.
Excellent video. I've been looking for quality counter sink bits for a while. On a side note, what deck and trucks are you riding on?
Lol, i might have 2 or 3 cheap countersink bit sets (with variable sizes of drill bit through holes) and maybe used 1 bit on 1 project. So yes i am still in my 15 years :)
Thanks for showing though, might stop buying those cheap ones. At least untill i have smoked those i allready have.
whats a countersink bit?
Word on the street is Uncle Ben is the next unlockable skater in the Tony Hawk Pro Skater 2 remake.
the best Countersinks for the Money are made by Fuller they have been manufacturing Drilling Accessories in the same location for around 200years minus a short time when one facility burned down they do offer HSS and Carbide tipped versions some of mine are more than 30years old the HSS ones i have will dull but i keep a Jewlers file set in my ToolBox and can Dress them up in under a minute on my ToolBoxes i screwed a small peice of Hardwood and i drilled holes to “hold the Countersinks so i can run a file over the Cutting Edge BTW i’ve never had to do anything to the Carbide tipped ones the big Box Stores don’t carry them as i’m sure they don’t meet their low cost purchase pricing to make high profits i usually order inbulk from Tools Today or Tools OnSale as i had a team of IArchitectual Woodwork Installers and i kept them in my work Van to sell to them for Cost as a Conveinence all 40 of my Employees used the Fuller brand they are also Made inThe U.S.A. i forget off the top of my head exactly but i think it’s inNew England and it’s been on the same Property for that 200 years Ironically i saw NormAbrams years ago using that brand on the New Yankee Workshop Show the name of the Company is WLFuller but everyone calls it Fuller they are Pricey but can last you a Lifetime if you properly take care of them
Good info!
6:53 Oh, looks like 1-1/4" steel pipe.
Like button has been feathered!
If it hadn't been for my lifelong injury from a tragic break dancing accident back in the 80's I could skate like that. ;-)
fast and quick are not quite the same, fast can be attributed to top speed, quick can be attributed to time between actions - a car can be fast but it won't be quick if it has a 20 speed transmission and it takes 30 mins to get to top speed :)
sincerely,
mr pedant
the cheap ones work just for softwood
Is that your garage, muscle man?
Can I come ride your mini ramp? I'm in Seattle.
That’s a awfully shallow ramp you built there mister Vancouver carpenter. I figured you as one who would go over board and build one with 8 to 10ft walls on it, I mean a real ankle or neck breaker! 😂😂😂😂
I'm 40 and was always more of a street skater. I like small ramps. Nothing over 5 feet for this guy.
Pintrest project… 😂🤣😂🤣😂
Once in a while someone gets that joke. I see pallet I think Pinterest🤣
@@vancouvercarpenter I will now too, and laugh everytime. Thanks for all the future chuckles. 😂🤣😂
Aloha from Hawaii.
Bonjour from Canada
I bought Milwaukee. 3 for $28 I felt scammed lmao
What a Chad.
👍👍👍
Well yeah you get what you,pay for.
Stick to what you do best, you're really clueless in counter sink decking bits. The only ones to get are quality TCT like P&N from Sutton with adjustable non marking depth stops. Otherwise manually controlling the counter sink depth of cut like the ones your recommending and displaying on a deck of say 4,000 screws will eventually leave you with carpal tunnel syndrome. So, keep quibble about the price, and reap what you sow.
Pfft, not doing a radical 360 superman at the ramp, what a chump ;)
Ben is awesome. I wish that his channel would blow up.
I would love to see a co-lab with Stud Pack.
I know that they do work in Washington on occasion. Maybe been can get his passport and do some international travel to meet up with the guys
More carpentry tips from my favorite drywall channel? What has this world come too? :)
Excellent advice, and thanks for sharing your learning experience.
Amazing video and so helpful while being entertaining and fun to watch.
Keep up the amazing work Ben.
I noticed the expensive countersink went with the expensive drill motor.
Old saying. You get what you pay for.
I'm still using the super cheap countersinks.
The one piece, blade type ones.
Never dad a use for countersink bits but now I know what I’ll be getting if I need one. I take they come in different sizes depending on the size of screw head you’re using or working with.
They do.
HUH Where is the drywall ?
It’s like an episode of Myth Buster’s! Keep going until something explodes. Or at the bare minimum…catches fire!
Amana makes a really nice one that also has a depth stop, so you get a uniform hole without trying. You may cry when you buy, but every time you use it will be an error-free pleasure. Kind of like Fisch Black Shark Forstner bits.
First this is a great video. This is excellent info. Oddly I got interrupted after my first pintrest comment and I am seeing your responses while I am watching the video which is kind of fun and weird at the same time lolol
Do you have a similar video on drywall fasteners the ones you use to screw the drywall to the studs? Or perhaps a preference of which ones are good?
6:49 That's a pretty small ramp. What did you use for coping?
The Zack Rabbit countersink set is the best one ever made, i wish they made a vix bit version
Never knew they made carbide tipped ones. Very cool. I need some.
The video bit is very entertaining. Keep kicking.
"feather that like button" is a great reminder!!!! I don't often think of it until you say something. have you seen an improvement statistically since throwing that in? just curious. thanks for another great video!!!
Not really. I just only remember sometimes
Oh man, you redeemed yourself. As this video progressed, I was feeling more and more resentful and frustrated by the lack of graceful trowel work. But, then you skated, and you skated well! Sidenote: I remember making some seriously shameful launch ramps and quarter pipes using siding nails splintering half-decayed plywood - it's always a treat to break through that stuff. I believe that would have been on my Alva Bill Danforth. Anyhow, that's a very handsome ramp!
Next video is all trowel :)
@@vancouvercarpenter Wooohoo!
I just saw your Guardz video, and thought I'd ask here, as you seem very knowledgeable. And honest.
I have a very serious issue with oil based primer that was applied in my bedroom closet. The room in now unusable because the off gas. Prevents me from sleeping in my bedroom.
Is there anything I can coat the Kilz Oil Based Primer, in my bedroom closet, that would seal in the off gas?
Who would be the best people to ask? Painters? Contractors? I've tried many. So far no solution. Any help would be God send.
Hi there…
Sorry to be so nosey.
I actually just oil primed some stuff myself…have used the stuff for years…and actually had my own decorating company way back.
Covering the oil with latex as soon as possible will begin to stop the stink as soon as you paint it. You’ll prob still smell a little thru that but it’s minimal and goes away quickly.
Some things I’ve noticed over the years: An open flame (furnace, stove, clothes dryer) will make the smell even worse! The reaction they have together smells horrible…but in my experiences, it hurries up the process a little bit of it going away quicker.
I hope any of that rambling on helps…lol
Peace✌🏼
Just paint it. Should be fine in a couple of days.
@@briansierzega I was told by other painters, that latex being water based. The kilz primer will just seep right through it. Incidentally, I kept a heater in the bedroom which turned up the temperature. And this made it off gas more quickly. But while it is mild now, the air quality in that room is not good.
If latex paint is water based. How will it seal in the off gas from the oil based primer, which is quite strong. Will push through the latex, from what I was told.
Some people recommended AFM Safecoat, which is a water based polyurethane. I spoke to the owner. He claims they use it on brand new hard wood floors, to seal in the off gas. But he said he could not gaurantee that it would stop the Kilz Oil Based Primer off gas. And that's polyurethane. How is water based, latex paint. Which to my understanding is permeable. How could that seal in the off gas from the primer?
Thank you by the way, for taking the time to respond.
@@vancouvercarpenter I just replied to the comment above with more details. From the painters I spoke to, latex being water based, would not seal in the off gas from the oil based primer.
Have you ever had success in sealing oil based primer with latex? (I sent you an email as well. Thanks for any help that you can give).
@@taljones1 Glad to help!
Latex paint in general sits on the surface when applied while oil based paints soak into its surfaces, and is why they make for excellent primers and stain blockers. That being said, yes, the oil will seep back into the latex paint to a certain extent. You probably will notice a tiny amount of the oil smell (like I do right now with the repair I made), but the topcoat of latex paint will trap most of it. It’s kind of like that new car smell that fades over time…
I still have my countersink bit from 40 years ago working in a pattern shop. Still works great!
amazing, you seem enjoying the cheap depth stop.
I do patchwork after plumbing repipes and have had a difficult time not leaving an edge when I mud even when I feather super tight. I think it’s the old ceiling texture, not sure if I should sand some of the old texture before?
Definitely. Without sanding the old stuff you can only take the mud down to the highest point