When mixing hot mud, I use an egg beater on the end of my cordless drill. It's very fast to mix in the pan and it does an amazing job of thoroughly mixing the compound. To this day, my wife has no idea why she only has one egg beater instead of two.
Yup, I have been using an egg beater for years, my wifes mixer quit working, so I was like "Hunny, can I have that?" And she's like "What the hell will you do with a egg beater??" And I said "Guy things" 😏
I've probably watched at least 50 of your videos throughout the last 5 years. Every time I have drywall patching work to do in my house, I come back to your videos to refresh my memory. I love that your videos are straight to the point. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I spent a day recently patching drywall ceilings in a house that was gutted following a hurricane. With the general understanding of the materials and process that I learned from you I was able to be one of the more proficient volunteers. Even better I was able to pull out some of the tips and tricks you've shared to solve a few problems. Thanks for what you do. The folks who's house is being restored are going to have a little bit better of a home than if you weren't making these videos.
I love to drywall as a DIY'er. It's a rather relaxing and Zen-like activity. And since I don't bang it out day in and day out, I've found a trick which helps with paper tape. Use a water spray bottle to moisten the tape slightly before applying it on top of the mud. It helps with placement. It keeps the tape from sucking all the wetness out of the underneath mud. In addition, it allows for the slower methodical fumblings of someone that doesn't do the activity every single day. The spray bottle also works to help adhesion of skim coats when applying to dusty surfaces.
you made all the videos to teach me how to tape and finish and now youre making videos i can use to teach my helpers a LITTLE bit faster and i love it thank you
I enjoy watching your videos because you are THOROUGH when explaining why you choose the products and techniques that you choose. Keep up the fine work and videos.
I’ve never used mesh tape mainly because it has rules of engagement. I’ve always used paper tape. And ever since you posted the video about mud consistency taping became way easier. Especially the corners.
I have used fibafuse that had a center crease. I liked it. Apparently the crease was a weak spot, and was prone to tearing, which I experienced(until I sanded the sharp corners of my knife thanks to you). They have since discontinued it. I think I still have part of a roll. lol When I use fibafuse, I wear light duty work gloves that are only about twice as thick as sweat factory gloves(latex, nitrile). If I forget to wear them and get the itchy hands, pantyhose works best at getting it out of the skin. You are the man btw.
I do a lot of repairs on cracks in plaster and 95% of the time there's mesh tape underneath and the reason being there is either no plaster in the crack or the drywall is too tight to get plaster in it! Never in 40 years have I heard of the other stuff! Might try a bounce sheet for my next small repair! lol! Love your videos, never too old to learn!
I must be pretty lame. After watching your previous videos on taping several times, I patched a 3'x4' hole in my garage ceiling caused by my stepping through it while repairing earthquake damage in my attic. You make it look so easy. My taping job was a mess and ended up looking pretty bad. But, as my wife said, it's only the garage! When I saw this new video I had to watch it even though I've already completed the job. Thanks to this video I should be able to do a better if there's a next time! :-)
I was told by a 30 year drywall pro that you should wet your paper tape before applying it. That helps from not forming bubbles because the wet tape does absorb all the moisture out of the mud. Have you ever heard that before? Also, I have been doing this for years and it seems to work well.
Look through his recent videos, Ben did a strength test for that method and a few others. While wetting the tape did make it lay nicer and relieve most of the bubbling more quickly, it had really poor adhesion strength in the end. There are a few reasons for this and he explains them, and as always, he covers a lot in that video. It's a good watch.
I think prep is key to a good drywall patch outcome. I like to cut the existing drywall back on a 45 ish degree angle and prefill with hot-mud before applying tape.
10000%!! Sure you can get away doing it the way he did, but as stargateproductions aforementioned, those steps will definitely yield better results in finish and longevity.
@Marcus Robledo no problem. When you install your patch, take a blade and cut the face of the drywall on a angle around where the slit is on both sides. It should create a v notch so your mud fills better. It creates a stronger patch.
I know this comment is a year old, but I'm doing some ceiling patches right now. Should I also cut the 45 degree notches when doing these ceilings? I'm using 45 minutes hot mud and mesh tape. Is it better to fill the perimeter gaps, smooth, and then tape after that first step is set, or fill the gaps and apply the tape while that's still setting? I've seen videos where people do it both ways but intuitively it seems like I should wait to apply the tape after that initial gap filling step is complete. Thanks!
I tend to usually have a lot of other things to do and probably opened the wall for wiring. Since I am working as DYI and not pro it works out. I found I suck as a drywaller. I just use paper and 45min fast mix. I open the wall and run the amount of wire I need. Then close it tape it. I come back a bit later after working on other stuff and form a valley that covers the tape well. Continue working on other things. Then come back and fill it in and spread as needed. Typically, The wall is ready for sanding and prime about the time I finish up the other things I was doing. NO a pro way, but I never claimed to be a pro. Definitely faster with better results since I started watching this channel.
Thanks everyone for helping me, and I have a better understanding. I will be drywalling two gutted rooms myself, because it is too expensive to hire someone. I really appreciate the help.
When I patching small holes I cut away the face paper to frame a boarder around the hole and apply plaster to the joint with fibrefuse tape. That way I don’t have to mud out over a larger area. It also works with plaster plugs with dog ears to patch old power points and ceiling light holes etc.
You are using a knife! You are so video- genic! You always make me feel like I’m standing right next to you or, you’re delivering a seminar about drywall and repairs To a live audience!
I have a modular home which is built in a factory and set with a crane on the foundation on site. I've found that the fibafuse is the best stuff for repairing the drywall cracks. Repaired with paper tape, the cracks come back, but when repaired with fibafuse, the cracks are gone for good. The fibafuse is strong stuff for sure, and a lot easier to work with than paper tape. In corners I use it with the corner tool and it holds up unlike the paper corners.
Glad to see you're on the fibafuse bandwagon now. I think it's great for my amateur, DIY use. You should mention that it's the most expensive of the three options... more expensive than mesh, and way more expensive than paper. But money well spent for an amateur who doesn't have a ton of experience.
Definitely appreciate your instruction & explanations for using the different tapes. You’re good at what you do Ben. You’re a dam good teacher as well. Always learning new tid bits as I watch these videos. Between you & a couple other drywall experts, I think I can tackle most small jobs. Haven’t decided yet whether to either drywall the ceilings or have the popcorn (level 1 asbestos) ceilings removed. May need some professional advice if I choose the former.
I used to pull out asbestos and I can just say use a mast that’s rated for it, and full head mask. Cover up everything else on your body with gloves and tape off your wrists and ankles if you wanna go hard. All the dust is going straight down on you after all. But you can figure it out from there. Just use some good ppe
They sell a little spiral mixer for 5 gallon buckets at Sherwin Williams. Just cut the stem down and chuck it in a drill. It fits perfectly in the pan and if done on the 1 setting it won't fling mud everywhere. Great for mixing up hot mud. You can even remove the red spiral bit and cut it down to reduce fling as well. Then just epoxy it back on the shaft.
Thank you for all your insight im learning a lot for my diy home remodel. Question: Do you tape the edge of a Metal corner bead to prevent cracking? What’s the professional diy methods for corner beads?
i use mesh on most of my patches . its good to prefill with quick set first , let set and scrape level and tight . then apply mesh and mud otherwise the mesh will bulge out at the seams especially on the ceiling . im 55 yrs old and do hundreds of patches per year
Aha! You answered my question. I didn’t know whether to put the tape on the “hot mud” pre-fill, or let it dry and then apply the tape with the green lid taping mud. Thank you and happy mudding.
I always use an egg beater to mix my hot mud, and even though I don't use mesh tape much, I prefer fibafuse, but I always double up the end so I can always find it. I do it with electrical tape, and any roll of tape as well.
I use mesh tape for all except corners... super thin, can fill the voids thru it without prefilling, and with hot mud i can mud and tape and skim in one step for a quick patch, and then texture it and be done...
I follow your vids. When are you gonna make a complete video including repairs a painting from start to finish with results of viewing from a different angles and lighting?
I like to leave the joints a little larger and pack the joints with mud prior to laying the mesh tape in the still wet mud as you would with paper tape (thanks Jose). Also the thin fine mesh tape is much easier to work with (other than finding the end of the roll the first time LOL) than traditional mesh tape.
I use the fibertape on my house, I live on a hill and have 2ft-9ft of crawlspace, yes the side of a hill and my pier and beam house moves a lot depending on the time of year so cracks are always showing up, The fiber tape has seemed to do A LOT better holding together on the doorways and certain area's that the mesh tape just couldn't fix and kept getting small cracks every 2-3 years. I am currently working on putting the mud-in LED light tracks in my house and I am using fibertape over the metal\holed sides of the light rails so we'll see how that works in a year or two.
I realize everyone has opinions based on their own experience, however your love of quick set is not DYI friendly. I have used regular all purpose mud with mesh tape many times with no cracks. I believe the key is to make sure the mud is thin enough to flow completely through the mesh to make contact with the drywall paper. If you're merely smearing a layer of mud on top of the mesh tape you'll have problems. Full penetration is the key!
The only thing we keep fiberfuse for is one day patches. I’ve found the quickset mud dries a little faster as it can breath. Also, as you said, slightly less build out. I haven’t used the fiber tape since the last crack I had 12yrs ago.
Just tried FibaFuse tape for the first time after doing some "testing" with different mud, it's pretty good. It's actually almost twice as strong as paper tape, according to what is advertised but yes, the corners are...I wish they put a crease in it.
You make that look so easy. I tried method 1 and there was a bulge where I put mud on the mesh. Tape started moving a bunch of times. And the finish, well you could clearly see where I had patched. Solution was to put a picture over it!
I'm all about paper tape for flat joints and fibafuse for butt joints. Fibafuse can't be beat when it comes to keeping buildout as low as possible and gives the flattest butt joints I've seen (aside from buttboard)
Hey I got caught in a jam on a job that was super far from any hardware store and I folded the fibafuse carefully and it will work I'm the corners it you are experienced and use to working with mud
If those patches were going to move relative to the panel you might need tape but in this case the patches coincidently are over a stud. Also, evidently you could use wider and probably longer backers as your screws are too close to the joints. "Back in the day" we used concave trowels not knives to finish. I used to have a 18" one that could burry a butt joint with one pass.
I'm in. Watching your videos made me dare to tape drywall. It's likely a horrible job but it will be being the IKEA cabinets I'm installing but this is my training ground before I do my family room. Maybe.
with fibre tape they do make 1 thats solid and 1 thats spined. i just buy the spined one as you can use it for corners as well. ive switched from paper to fibre as well since ive had clients dealing with fire department wanting fire stops and they wont certify with the paper since its flamable they say
Curoius when taping a joint on a old wall and to a new wall. any tips. Man I’m doin a big Reno and the paper tape is bubbling where old met the new , yet all the new joints all are perfect. I use a lot of 90 set mud as a rule to do Reno taping. then switch to final on the finish coats
i say fibafuse is THE best out of the 3, hands down for patches. It goes so thin and it's actually stronger than paper, the kilted drywaller guy tested the load strength.
I like mesh tape and fiberglass tape for any type spackle. I do not use or like paper tape. I've seen more joint failures from paper tape over any others.
I think the more you play with the fuse ut will grow on you. Its never blistered on me in ten years ive been using it . I still tape all flats and corner's with paper but but joints and patcjes ar fuse all the way
I’m fixing holes and pop outs and repainting my bathroom. It has a very high ceiling. All along the ceiling corners the paper tape has lifted off. It’s just paper dangling in the wind. It’s stuck fine to the walls but not the ceiling. The ceiling plaster has all crumbled and fallen off. Is there some easy way to glue this paper back to the ceiling? I don’t want to rip it off and have to patch and repaint. I don’t even care much that the ceiling plaster has fallen off. If I can glue it down I’ll paint it white or just spot fill with plaster. Any suggestions appreciated!
10:54 Hey man, appreciate the information greatly, just curious - here when you're paper taping, why do you not extend your vertical tape to cover your horizontal edges? I am very new to doing mudding I had just heard through grapevine information that covering those horizontal edges is better for it in the long run, I could see how it could cause some overlapping raising it too high? other than that /shrug lol! Thank you for your time m8!!
I never overlap because it makes more of a hump to cover up. Especially when using papet tape, it's already pretty thick. And on a patch with butt joints it really raises up more
Do you know how to apply this to a drywall gap that was left around the water pipe is about 5 inches and about 1-2inches gap around it, do you know what would be the best method to cover it? Would foam, tape and mud work? Or just foam or Caulking 🙏 please help !!!!!
So after a square patch like these are fully dried and set, could I then recut a smaller hole out of the middle of that patch? I accidentally cut a square hole too large for a Sanus in wall power adapter. I’ll need to patch the hole as it’s far too large but I’d need to recut a smaller square hole inside the patch. For reference the square that’s too big is 6.5in x 8in and the smaller square would be 5.25in x 7in.
There is one much better way, which is to use a roll of crackstop 36” mesh and make full-sized patches, even covering all three with one large mesh patch. Wipe the embedding coat (setting mud only) fairly tight to the mesh, diagonally. This leaves the mesh covered but slightly visible. Then after it has completely dried (fully dried, not just hardened) apply one or two very tight skim coats with all-purpose or topping compound. This method produces a durable & undetectable patch that’s approximately 1 mm thick. Force dry with a fan and paint it same day. Your patch work shows decent workmanship and great understanding of materials, but it would benefit by removing more wet material with a much longer straightedge. A tile straightedge or a Level5 skimming blade would help. If your sanding is anything more than 220 grit to blend here and there, you’re putting too much mud on the wall.
So whe. I DID A FIX ON MY OLD HO.E I KNES NOTHING IF DRY WL BUT I needed tape and a 5 gallon of mud. I am watching you and you use 2 or 3 different. Ud? I an M going to do my sisterqalls in a few months. Any advice for me? Love your video with slat wa as that may be in my house when I get it.
fibafuse is great. (7-years pro use) it often allows skipping a coat! (shhhh 🙂) best for all, except corners. no biggie, since paper tape is the bomb there!
Хобби
"I'm just going to leave it. No I'm not." 🤣 Story of my life 😊
When mixing hot mud, I use an egg beater on the end of my cordless drill. It's very fast to mix in the pan and it does an amazing job of thoroughly mixing the compound. To this day, my wife has no idea why she only has one egg beater instead of two.
Looks like we know what you need to get your wife for her birthday. 😆
That’s so smart I’ve been looking for a better way!
I get whisks and beaters from goodwill to use for construction they're like 25 cents a pop it's awesome.
Yup, I have been using an egg beater for years, my wifes mixer quit working, so I was like "Hunny, can I have that?" And she's like "What the hell will you do with a egg beater??" And I said "Guy things" 😏
I use a small spiral paint mixer with a cordless drill & mix in a 1gal. plastic paint pail.Works great.
I've probably watched at least 50 of your videos throughout the last 5 years. Every time I have drywall patching work to do in my house, I come back to your videos to refresh my memory. I love that your videos are straight to the point. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I agree. I do the same thing!!
Yes! Straight to the point and no annoying, and too loud, background "music." Thank-you very much!
I spent a day recently patching drywall ceilings in a house that was gutted following a hurricane. With the general understanding of the materials and process that I learned from you I was able to be one of the more proficient volunteers. Even better I was able to pull out some of the tips and tricks you've shared to solve a few problems.
Thanks for what you do. The folks who's house is being restored are going to have a little bit better of a home than if you weren't making these videos.
The hurricane work is tough but somebody’s got to do it!
That explains your " semi scrambled eggs ".
Nice
I love to drywall as a DIY'er. It's a rather relaxing and Zen-like activity. And since I don't bang it out day in and day out, I've found a trick which helps with paper tape. Use a water spray bottle to moisten the tape slightly before applying it on top of the mud. It helps with placement. It keeps the tape from sucking all the wetness out of the underneath mud. In addition, it allows for the slower methodical fumblings of someone that doesn't do the activity every single day.
The spray bottle also works to help adhesion of skim coats when applying to dusty surfaces.
That's a great tip - thanks for sharing! I'll try it.
Awesome video!
dont do that.
@@maddawgzzzzWhy not?
@@joncrosby8988You want the tape to absorb the adhesives in the mud, wetting it first makes the bond weaker.
you made all the videos to teach me how to tape and finish and now youre making videos i can use to teach my helpers a LITTLE bit faster and i love it thank you
I enjoy watching your videos because you are THOROUGH when explaining why you choose the products and techniques that you choose. Keep up the fine work and videos.
I’ve never used mesh tape mainly because it has rules of engagement. I’ve always used paper tape. And ever since you posted the video about mud consistency taping became way easier. Especially the corners.
I love your videos. Since I have been watching you, my dry wall work has gotten so much better. Much quicker as well.
TY for sharing your craft!!
Your an excellent coach! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
The fact that RUclips hasn't made you a multi-millionaire for putting together this glorious channel is, in my opinion, criminal.
I have used fibafuse that had a center crease. I liked it. Apparently the crease was a weak spot, and was prone to tearing, which I experienced(until I sanded the sharp corners of my knife thanks to you). They have since discontinued it. I think I still have part of a roll. lol
When I use fibafuse, I wear light duty work gloves that are only about twice as thick as sweat factory gloves(latex, nitrile). If I forget to wear them and get the itchy hands, pantyhose works best at getting it out of the skin. You are the man btw.
I do a lot of repairs on cracks in plaster and 95% of the time there's mesh tape underneath and the reason being there is either no plaster in the crack or the drywall is too tight to get plaster in it! Never in 40 years have I heard of the other stuff! Might try a bounce sheet for my next small repair! lol! Love your videos, never too old to learn!
I must be pretty lame. After watching your previous videos on taping several times, I patched a 3'x4' hole in my garage ceiling caused by my stepping through it while repairing earthquake damage in my attic. You make it look so easy. My taping job was a mess and ended up looking pretty bad. But, as my wife said, it's only the garage! When I saw this new video I had to watch it even though I've already completed the job. Thanks to this video I should be able to do a better if there's a next time! :-)
I was told by a 30 year drywall pro that you should wet your paper tape before applying it. That helps from not forming bubbles because the wet tape does absorb all the moisture out of the mud. Have you ever heard that before? Also, I have been doing this for years and it seems to work well.
Look through his recent videos, Ben did a strength test for that method and a few others. While wetting the tape did make it lay nicer and relieve most of the bubbling more quickly, it had really poor adhesion strength in the end. There are a few reasons for this and he explains them, and as always, he covers a lot in that video. It's a good watch.
I think prep is key to a good drywall patch outcome. I like to cut the existing drywall back on a 45 ish degree angle and prefill with hot-mud before applying tape.
I do the same thing and never had to come back
10000%!! Sure you can get away doing it the way he did, but as stargateproductions aforementioned, those steps will definitely yield better results in finish and longevity.
@Marcus Robledo no problem. When you install your patch, take a blade and cut the face of the drywall on a angle around where the slit is on both sides. It should create a v notch so your mud fills better. It creates a stronger patch.
@@stargateproductions fills better and has more exposed surface for mud to stick to.
I know this comment is a year old, but I'm doing some ceiling patches right now. Should I also cut the 45 degree notches when doing these ceilings? I'm using 45 minutes hot mud and mesh tape. Is it better to fill the perimeter gaps, smooth, and then tape after that first step is set, or fill the gaps and apply the tape while that's still setting? I've seen videos where people do it both ways but intuitively it seems like I should wait to apply the tape after that initial gap filling step is complete. Thanks!
He makes it look so easy. Takes a lot of experience guys. Nice work as always
I tend to usually have a lot of other things to do and probably opened the wall for wiring. Since I am working as DYI and not pro it works out. I found I suck as a drywaller. I just use paper and 45min fast mix. I open the wall and run the amount of wire I need. Then close it tape it. I come back a bit later after working on other stuff and form a valley that covers the tape well. Continue working on other things. Then come back and fill it in and spread as needed. Typically, The wall is ready for sanding and prime about the time I finish up the other things I was doing. NO a pro way, but I never claimed to be a pro. Definitely faster with better results since I started watching this channel.
you are now my new drywall teacher thank you
Thanks everyone for helping me, and I have a better understanding. I will be drywalling two gutted rooms myself, because it is too expensive to hire someone. I really appreciate the help.
Thanks for the knowledge. I wish you and yours a happy life.
Merry Christmas thanks for all your videos. My drywall patches are perfect now.
When I patching small holes I cut away the face paper to frame a boarder around the hole and apply plaster to the joint with fibrefuse tape. That way I don’t have to mud out over a larger area. It also works with plaster plugs with dog ears to patch old power points and ceiling light holes etc.
You are using a knife! You are so video- genic! You always make me feel like I’m standing right next to you or, you’re delivering a seminar about drywall and repairs To a live audience!
Expert, master piccacio of mud. Great job ben
I have a modular home which is built in a factory and set with a crane on the foundation on site. I've found that the fibafuse is the best stuff for repairing the drywall cracks. Repaired with paper tape, the cracks come back, but when repaired with fibafuse, the cracks are gone for good. The fibafuse is strong stuff for sure, and a lot easier to work with than paper tape. In corners I use it with the corner tool and it holds up unlike the paper corners.
Glad to see you're on the fibafuse bandwagon now. I think it's great for my amateur, DIY use. You should mention that it's the most expensive of the three options... more expensive than mesh, and way more expensive than paper. But money well spent for an amateur who doesn't have a ton of experience.
Definitely appreciate your instruction & explanations for using the different tapes. You’re good at what you do Ben. You’re a dam good teacher as well. Always learning new tid bits as I watch these videos. Between you & a couple other drywall experts, I think I can tackle most small jobs. Haven’t decided yet whether to either drywall the ceilings or have the popcorn (level 1 asbestos) ceilings removed. May need some professional advice if I choose the former.
I used to pull out asbestos and I can just say use a mast that’s rated for it, and full head mask. Cover up everything else on your body with gloves and tape off your wrists and ankles if you wanna go hard. All the dust is going straight down on you after all. But you can figure it out from there. Just use some good ppe
Fibafuse in the banjo is awesome, works pretty good on the corners also. 👌
Dude your videos have helped me so much. I got a new house that needs a ton of drywall work. Do a kick flip !!
Awesome, great video Ben!
As usual another excellent accessible video
very informative, appreciate everything you do man. 💯❤️💪🏼
Great video! Very informative.
They sell a little spiral mixer for 5 gallon buckets at Sherwin Williams. Just cut the stem down and chuck it in a drill. It fits perfectly in the pan and if done on the 1 setting it won't fling mud everywhere. Great for mixing up hot mud. You can even remove the red spiral bit and cut it down to reduce fling as well. Then just epoxy it back on the shaft.
Thanks a lot man. Step by step Im becoming a drywall expert.
Thank you for all your insight im learning a lot for my diy home remodel. Question: Do you tape the edge of a Metal corner bead to prevent cracking? What’s the professional diy methods for corner beads?
i use mesh on most of my patches . its good to prefill with quick set first , let set and scrape level and tight . then apply mesh and mud otherwise the mesh will bulge out at the seams especially on the ceiling . im 55 yrs old and do hundreds of patches per year
Aha! You answered my question. I didn’t know whether to put the tape on the “hot mud” pre-fill, or let it dry and then apply the tape with the green lid taping mud. Thank you and happy mudding.
Some of the fiber tape I've used, the fiber fuse, actually have a crease down the middle to fold it. I do like using it.
What a smashing video!
I always use an egg beater to mix my hot mud, and even though I don't use mesh tape much, I prefer fibafuse, but I always double up the end so I can always find it. I do it with electrical tape, and any roll of tape as well.
Egg beater is the way to go!
I like how you give advice and tools that only beginners have
Thank you I love learning
Excellent video exact info been wondering about
Good work teacher.
Awesome video!
Love your videos man! Just wanted to post to help that RUclips algorithm😜👍🏽!
I use mesh tape for all except corners... super thin, can fill the voids thru it without prefilling, and with hot mud i can mud and tape and skim in one step for a quick patch, and then texture it and be done...
I need to learn more about the different kinds of mud and applications
Hey Ben. Do you have a video for hanging drywall when using bullnose corner bead? How much do you recess the curves if any
Oh my, where were you when I was trying to learn this trade? Not for a profession but as a patcher for other things I did. Lol
Love all your vids
I'm a huge fan of fibafuse!
It's so user friendly!
And you can do big costs same day!
Like you I do parallel side first two.
No over lapping the paper tape on the corners?
I follow your vids. When are you gonna make a complete video including repairs a painting from start to finish with results of viewing from a different angles and lighting?
We always texture after the mudding and mesh tape, that way no cracks ever seen... Do you have any vids on texturing? Would be cool to see
I like to leave the joints a little larger and pack the joints with mud prior to laying the mesh tape in the still wet mud as you would with paper tape (thanks Jose). Also the thin fine mesh tape is much easier to work with (other than finding the end of the roll the first time LOL) than traditional mesh tape.
Yeah I always lay the mesh tape in a wet bed as well. I didn't even know it could go on dry
Thank you!
I use the fibertape on my house, I live on a hill and have 2ft-9ft of crawlspace, yes the side of a hill and my pier and beam house moves a lot depending on the time of year so cracks are always showing up, The fiber tape has seemed to do A LOT better holding together on the doorways and certain area's that the mesh tape just couldn't fix and kept getting small cracks every 2-3 years. I am currently working on putting the mud-in LED light tracks in my house and I am using fibertape over the metal\holed sides of the light rails so we'll see how that works in a year or two.
I highly recommend Strait Flex "crack tape" fir recurring cracks
Thank you for the mud pun.
I realize everyone has opinions based on their own experience, however your love of quick set is not DYI friendly. I have used regular all purpose mud with mesh tape many times with no cracks. I believe the key is to make sure the mud is thin enough to flow completely through the mesh to make contact with the drywall paper. If you're merely smearing a layer of mud on top of the mesh tape you'll have problems. Full penetration is the key!
agree for over 30 years no problem
The only thing we keep fiberfuse for is one day patches. I’ve found the quickset mud dries a little faster as it can breath. Also, as you said, slightly less build out. I haven’t used the fiber tape since the last crack I had 12yrs ago.
In New Zealand the most of plasterers use fiber to tape joints and paper to internal corners. We don't have any problems.
@@osvaldoschlusaz3395 another plasterer watching
Just tried FibaFuse tape for the first time after doing some "testing" with different mud, it's pretty good. It's actually almost twice as strong as paper tape, according to what is advertised but yes, the corners are...I wish they put a crease in it.
You make that look so easy. I tried method 1 and there was a bulge where I put mud on the mesh. Tape started moving a bunch of times. And the finish, well you could clearly see where I had patched. Solution was to put a picture over it!
you must of had very large gaps in the joints. you should prefill large gaps and let dry before taping
Amazing video very helpful and your videos are always so fun to watch.
Keep up the amazing work Ben.
I never saw a taper use both sides of the knife while applying compound. Thanks for sharing.
Good video and information
Thanks
I'm all about paper tape for flat joints and fibafuse for butt joints. Fibafuse can't be beat when it comes to keeping buildout as low as possible and gives the flattest butt joints I've seen (aside from buttboard)
Fibafuse Max is a thing, so try a comparison using that eventually
Hey I got caught in a jam on a job that was super far from any hardware store and I folded the fibafuse carefully and it will work I'm the corners it you are experienced and use to working with mud
When he said no I’m not 😂
Do a stress test with 2 excess piece of drywall mud all 3 different tape in same joint and lift other board to see what tape will visibly crack first.
In NZ our Fibre Fuse Tape had the crease now... I guess that would be the same where you are now as we are usually way behind you guys.
If those patches were going to move relative to the panel you might need tape but in this case the patches coincidently are over a stud. Also, evidently you could use wider and probably longer backers as your screws are too close to the joints. "Back in the day" we used concave trowels not knives to finish. I used to have a 18" one that could burry a butt joint with one pass.
good info
Thanks!
Thank you
I'm in. Watching your videos made me dare to tape drywall. It's likely a horrible job but it will be being the IKEA cabinets I'm installing but this is my training ground before I do my family room. Maybe.
with fibre tape they do make 1 thats solid and 1 thats spined. i just buy the spined one as you can use it for corners as well. ive switched from paper to fibre as well since ive had clients dealing with fire department wanting fire stops and they wont certify with the paper since its flamable they say
Curoius when taping a joint on a old wall and to a new wall. any tips. Man I’m doin a big Reno and the paper tape is bubbling where old met the new , yet all the new joints all are perfect. I use a lot of 90 set mud as a rule to do Reno taping. then switch to final on the finish
coats
You mention thinning, can you explain more on that or do you have a vid that does?
Quick question, I'm told you should get the paper wet before. Is that true?
i say fibafuse is THE best out of the 3, hands down for patches. It goes so thin and it's actually stronger than paper, the kilted drywaller guy tested the load strength.
hi. can you do all you're tapping with all purpose joint compound? I'm in VA US.
What do you If you don't have access to the whole joint? Like a mini split in the way of the bottom or corner joint
I like mesh tape and fiberglass tape for any type spackle. I do not use or like paper tape. I've seen more joint failures from paper tape over any others.
That first method and your thought process of like oh well that's not good. Lol that's me.
Might be too late for this question, but any reason not to use hot mud with paper tape? Like durabond 90?
I think the more you play with the fuse ut will grow on you. Its never blistered on me in ten years ive been using it .
I still tape all flats and corner's with paper but but joints and patcjes ar fuse all the way
A Primus reference?! GOLD
What about a california drywall patch? Any problems with doing it like that?
I’m fixing holes and pop outs and repainting my bathroom. It has a very high ceiling. All along the ceiling corners the paper tape has lifted off. It’s just paper dangling in the wind. It’s stuck fine to the walls but not the ceiling. The ceiling plaster has all crumbled and fallen off. Is there some easy way to glue this paper back to the ceiling? I don’t want to rip it off and have to patch and repaint. I don’t even care much that the ceiling plaster has fallen off. If I can glue it down I’ll paint it white or just spot fill with plaster. Any suggestions appreciated!
10:54 Hey man, appreciate the information greatly, just curious - here when you're paper taping, why do you not extend your vertical tape to cover your horizontal edges? I am very new to doing mudding I had just heard through grapevine information that covering those horizontal edges is better for it in the long run, I could see how it could cause some overlapping raising it too high? other than that /shrug lol! Thank you for your time m8!!
I never overlap because it makes more of a hump to cover up. Especially when using papet tape, it's already pretty thick. And on a patch with butt joints it really raises up more
Is setting type mud ok for all these tapes? It's all I tend to buy for some reason.
Do you know how to apply this to a drywall gap that was left around the water pipe is about 5 inches and about 1-2inches gap around it, do you know what would be the best method to cover it? Would foam, tape and mud work? Or just foam or Caulking 🙏 please help !!!!!
Fabulous 👌
I'm new to the channel, and I love the videos. I'm too lazy to search your library, so I would like to know if there is a video on sanding?
C,mon dude! It's the first one that came up when I searched sanding drywall😂 I'll let it slide this time
ruclips.net/video/imoKbJnHbKE/видео.html
So after a square patch like these are fully dried and set, could I then recut a smaller hole out of the middle of that patch?
I accidentally cut a square hole too large for a Sanus in wall power adapter. I’ll need to patch the hole as it’s far too large but I’d need to recut a smaller square hole inside the patch.
For reference the square that’s too big is 6.5in x 8in and the smaller square would be 5.25in x 7in.
There is one much better way, which is to use a roll of crackstop 36” mesh and make full-sized patches, even covering all three with one large mesh patch.
Wipe the embedding coat (setting mud only) fairly tight to the mesh, diagonally. This leaves the mesh covered but slightly visible. Then after it has completely dried (fully dried, not just hardened) apply one or two very tight skim coats with all-purpose or topping compound.
This method produces a durable & undetectable patch that’s approximately 1 mm thick. Force dry with a fan and paint it same day.
Your patch work shows decent workmanship and great understanding of materials, but it would benefit by removing more wet material with a much longer straightedge. A tile straightedge or a Level5 skimming blade would help.
If your sanding is anything more than 220 grit to blend here and there, you’re putting too much mud on the wall.
So whe. I DID A FIX ON MY OLD HO.E I KNES NOTHING IF DRY WL BUT I needed tape and a 5 gallon of mud. I am watching you and you use 2 or 3 different. Ud? I an
M going to do my sisterqalls in a few months. Any advice for me? Love your video with slat wa as that may be in my house when I get it.
fibafuse is great. (7-years pro use) it often allows skipping a coat! (shhhh 🙂) best for all, except corners. no biggie, since paper tape is the bomb there!