I'm a metal framer by trade from commercial building doing build-outs and even homes. I know you're showing the video for the average Joe who don't know but you should also screw the back of the stud by using extension and you can screw through the inside of the stud with the point going outwards into the back as well. We normally use the little vise grip clamps and we usually have a pocket full of them just to hold them in place until we go back and screw them. and if you're using PT on the bottom you should put a felt paper between the PT and the metal stud so you don't have a corrosion happening later on down the road. Don't take this as knocking you cuz I really do enjoy your shows 👍😉
How specifically would you screw in the stud in the back side ? I found it extremely hard, eventhough I am using 90 impact extensions, I found that I don’t have enough force to keep pushing them constantly
Minor advice. I know Jeff is focused on other details, but for us/you DIY'ers, black marker/sharpie is great for steel frame work, but NEVER use it on drywall. It will bleed through the primer and paint and drive you crazy as you have to apply coat after coat of primer to cover it up. Only use pencil on drywall. Good luck!
When you say "and this isn't galvanized" - yes it is. Those are zinc-plated studs. But you are putting them (light-gauge steel studs) directly on pressure-treated lumber, in an area where you spell out moisture concerns. We know pressure treated wood eats zinc-plated steel like nobodies business. Use flashing, foam sill seal, or something else to separate the steel stud from the pressure-treated lumber.
I wish I could like this 10x. I've been wanting to finish by basement but have been put off by the cost of lumber and intimidated by metal. Thank you so much!
This is great, thank you! A couple of notes: in my opinion it's better to use track for framing the door top/bulkhead and around windows (top and bottom). When you bend the track and fit it around the studs - wood or steel - you don't have the issue of the bulge that you'd get from the curl on the inside of the stud (and don't have to bend it). You can use a regular miter saw with a carbide-tipped metal blade to cut 4 studs at a time. No need to cut them with snips. I even make a lot of my smaller cuts with the miter saw just because it cuts cleaner and quicker than snips. Track is easier to cut since it doesn't have that curl/lip thing that the studs have. If you're using snips to cut, you can cut the sides, then bend back and forth and it'll snap nicely and give you a clean cut. Also, I went with rigid foam against the wall and unfaced fiber glass inside the studs w/o a poly barrier. That's what everyone is saying is the best (effective and less expensive than spray foam) method to insulate a basement at this point. I'd love to see a video on doing soffits/bulkheads; it seems like hardly anyone wants to tackle that with steel on RUclips.
Nice tutorial. I spent about 1/3 of my construction life as a metal framing contractor. The only thing I did differently us using a small pair of reach over vice-grips verses the spring loaded clips. Much of the work I did was on multi-level scaffolding and the vice grips allowed the use of rope to pull up the cut studs from the floor as my helper made the cuts.
Years ago when I started watching this Ottawa contractor, I was amazed, even blown away, by his knowledge of the building trade(s). If there was a PhD in plumbing, or framing, or flooring, this guy would have a sheepskin on his wall; Dr. Thorman. Now that expansive mind of his is leading the RUclips world and giving us a 60,000 foot view of a lumber yard or a ship stuck in the Suez Canal as a tree falls in Canada making a sound that Jeff can perceptively hear. What a thinker! His common sense blesses me in Utah in so many practical ways.
I have been watching your videos with great interest- they’re just great! I just realized that you have the same voice as Saul Goodman 😂🤣 it cracked me up when I realized that 😂🤣
The subfloor system that Jeff described at the end of the video is game changer. I’ve used it in two of my homes and it not only makes it easier to manage the build, but it keep the basement so warm and comfortable when everything is done and you’re ready to enjoy the fruits of your labour. It’s easy and relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to prefabricated tile systems.
How did you attach the frame to the subfloor? Planning on using steel frame but debating if I need the pressure treated 2x4 under the track if it’s already elevated off the concrete.
@@apatton6022 I believe after 1:01:25 Jeff mentions that you can just screw your track directly into the subfloor if you go that route, which means you wouldn't have to purchase the pressure treated lumber
@shawnwinter are you talking about the dimple membrane? I read a lot of reviews on it that say it makes noise when you walk on it. I am just going to use Durafoam 3/4 plus toung and groove OSB. Fortunately I'm on a hill and I have zero issues with moisture.
Such a talent for noticing and teaching the small details that make life quicker and easier (and intentionally dropping the things that don't matter). It surprises me every time I watch one of Jeff's videos. It requires you to really "think" about your trade, and it's a rare skill IMO
Actually, 100 studs was right. What you wanted to double was the number of tracks, that is 40 instead of 20. Apart of that, great video tuto. I just decided to finish some walls with metal studs rather than wood ($$$), but did not know how to use that. Now, I think I know. Thanks Jeff.
Usually agree with all your advice but I have a few issues with this video. I never use pt inside. I'd use foam or poly sill gasket under plating whether steel or would as they will wick moisture and salt from concrete but pt also reacts to metal and eats through it via bimetal corrosion that's why we use ceramic coated or galvanized fastners on pt. PPE is important, I wear the thin anti-cut gloves as you can still handle the tiny screws but don't have to worry about steel slivers or cuts
I use to have his same thoughts on gloves but Nitril gloves that fit your hand tight give you amazing dexterity. Milwaukee and Costco sell big packs of these. They are great for construction work where you need hand dexterity and also nice when you do concrete or other work with caustic materials.
As for gloves, I use the MaxiFlex cut proof (34-8743, size 10) gloves. They make several styles, but the green ones I use I can put a dime flat on a glass table top and pick it up easy peasey. They take about a day to break in and then they literally a second skin. They also don't make your hands stink and will outlast the cheaper box store gloves 10/15 to one. They are highly cut resistant, but not stab proof. They are sized like surgical gloves. The zinc on the steel studs will also dry the crap outta your hands and make your skin split at the joints. These prevent this as well
Sir no lie. You looked really frustrated with the people that don’t know what they are doing or saying on your comments . You are the pro. Boss I love the channel. I’ve been learning from you for a while. I just wanna say great job and thank you very much.
Jeff always has the best instructional videos. Also like that you can do most of these projects with entry level tools which is something other you tubers don't necessarily show you. Nice work mate!
Steel stud framer, drywaller and finisher here. Goddamn i LOVE THIS STUFF! Its easy for electricians to run their wires, bottom row of holes is for plumbers to run their pex and whatnot. Dont get me wrong, i love using wood 2x4s but sometimes steel framing is the best bet. Did and entire basement (it was about 26x28 give or take) framed the bathroom, laundry room, office and play room in about 2 days. One thing i can tell you right now though, USE PT WOOD UNDER your bottom plate. Its that extra little step and that extra couple bucks but really makes a difference.
Finally a video with steel framing, I live in Athens Greece and all framing is done with Steel but all buildings are build with concrete slags and walls are with brick and cement very helpful tips
I love Jeff's power grunts when he bends over or stands up, making a drinking game out of it tonight! He's the modern day, real life Tim Allen only better! Jack and Jeff perfect Saturday night combo! :)
Dude. I haven't even watched this video as I type this comment. But you are amazing to share this knowledge. My prayers have been answered because I was just saying wow, lumber is expensive, wonder if I can do my upcoming basement project with metal. Boom! here you are teaching it. Thank you!!!
Jeff just let me start out by saying, i love your videos. You my man are the quintessential jack of all trades.I'm a 35 year Union carpenter from Seattle. First thing is, the metal stud you had in your hand was galvanized. Here in Seattle all are metal studs are galvanized. You most certainly want to shoot your track down directly on the concrete. The other thing i wanted to recommend is using is spray glue adhesive in a spray can for putting up your insulation and your plastic vapor barrier. Just spray it on the inside and outside web of the studs for your insulation install and on the face of the studs for your vapor barrier. Also there are two types of metal stud framing, architectural and structural. Most DI-Y's will only be doing non-structural framing.Anyway my man i just wanted to say keep up the great videos, you are a mountain of knowledge that is appreciated by everyone. Thank you.
You have always been my go to guy for any DIY I do at home. Your no nonsense approve to building is just GREAT! The code review to doing things right is something that is not told by others doing instructional videos. I have learned so much from you and I truly appreciate ALL of your videos. Thank you VERY much again.
I was thinking about this the other day. I will never properly finish my basement. Sealed/painted walls and tile or vinyl floors only, and everything important propped a bit off the ground. I'd rather the basement look slightly less nice to never have to deal with ripping it all out when it gets moldy or the sump pump fails in a heavy rain. Been in too many damp basements and mine will probably end up that way as well some day.
Dewalt cordless drywall gun, was the best investment I ever made, and use the small batteries to keep it light, it makes a difference when your boarding all day, and cool little tip for cutting the vapor barrier on the floor, take the handle off of your sanding pole, and tape your knife to the end of it, and just walk along the wall, it saves your knees and your back
Great video! Wish this came out 6 months ago. We recently finished framing an entire tiny house with metal framing. Instead of the clips, we used locking C-clamps (similar to vice grips) to hold the stud and track together which worked really well.
Pro Steel framer here.....the C-Clamps are what we use everyday. The spring clamps are okay but i only use those for installing drop ceilings. To me not enough holding pressure..itll work but C Clamps are like an extra hand...you can REALLY hold 2 pieces together
So you can use these for studding your walls instead of 2x4? He just said it was 1/2 cheaper than wood.Wow that is a lot of savings on just the framing.
Love the ideal of working with steel. I know a gentlemen from UK who lives in Bohol Philippines that built his entire house with steel has a second floor as well. Every part of his house is steel except for the inside walls. He has done this before and would not do any other way. Termites and water damage wood there so anything you can do out of metal or hollow block is better than wood. Now I have to say thank you for showing me a new way of building w/o wood. Enjoy your videos.
Hey Jeff, maybe it's me but at 1:00:48, you changed studs quantities saying it's two for top and bottom but I think you mixed it with your tracks. Great video non the less!
Best yt channel for diy projects.. just used your knowledge today putting in a basement window. Now I might just have to use metal studs when I finish the walls. Great content!
Great video Jeff! Thank you, and also thank you for releasing your Spanish channel that honestly made me have even more respect for you. I’m 1st generation Mexican American and i love your videos so much, and am so happy to see you bring that to the Spanish speaking community bravo sir
yes but in the 60's mexicans would not let you hear them speak spanish because they wanted to assimilate, now they don't care about being americans because they believe that america is all of the americas. My peeve is that my neighbors don't throw trash out in my yard but the visiting laborer's do, what does that tell you about how they cars about our property, do they do that where they came from? sorry I'm in tx.
i havent decided what i will use. i was sold on steel, but leaning back towards wood. nice thing with steel is you wont have to sort through a lot of bowed and bad 2x4s
I am a steel stud drywaller and have noticed a lot of people are looking at steel stud instead of wood due to price. In the commercial sector we just shot the bottom track to concrete and I have not seen a problem yet granted that's new builds. I have been done hole houses with steel stud and it was cheaper
Hi Jeff, I think this video has officially changed my mind and that I will use steel studs for framing my basement. Seems WAY more forgiving for the novice DIY'er. Thanks for posting this kind of stuff.
your videos are on a whole different level of quality and precision. I'd hire you for any job and I've learned to do quite a few from you already. THANK YOU
Jeff, I've watched alot of your videos and I think this is one of your best ones! Exceptional detail and thoughtful layout of information for 95% of it. You must have been getting tired towards the end! Great video and I appreciate the great information you shared!
This is really hilarious to me personally because my father constructed a very poorly built tool shed all out of steel 2x4s about 20 years ago. And did literally every single thing wrong. Including building a concrete mold out of the steel that he then built the walls on top of. 🤣🤣
This video is perfectly timed. I was wondering just yesterday if that steel system was going to be much cheaper than wood. Here in Nova Scotia a 2x4 is going for around $8 or more each right now.
What am I missing? In ottawa a 2x4x8 wood is 5.35 and steel 3 5/8x8 is 6.45 at home depot. I was going to use steel for my basement theater for less noise traveling and thought it was cheaper. 🤔
@@dbinott Down in NY wood studs are running about a buck or two more than steel studs. The wood has been fluctuating much more in price. Just for convenience though, this video has convinced me to use steel in the basement.
I watched a lot of Your videos recently (I started doing my first attic remodel and was kinda clueless) but this is the first one that make me think how lucky I am to live in Poland. I guess prices are much more sensible here. I bought a lot of this metal studs for the walls and for example 3 meter ones (not standard, here typical is 2,6 m) were around 8 PLN so around 3 $ (CAD) each. Maybe I'm wrong and wholesale prices are better - If I bought those at hardware store I'd pay around 7 CAD - but still. Differences in cost of building and renovation here are much lower than other eu countries, USA and Canada.
Nice video of steel framing. We are manufacturer of Light gauge steel framing machine and cold roll forming machines. Its easy to build house by steel and mostly to avoid forest destroy.
laying steel on concrete with potential water or moisture can lead with time to directly rusting away. using proper green trested as your bottom plates is the way to go. grreat vid...
Take a speed square and score a line across the face of the stud or track w/ a utility knife. Then you can snap the metal off instead of cutting it w/ your snips.
Your Videos are great man, Thanks! I remember when I first started doing metal framing, this professional framer guy showed me a very cool trick. He would only cut the sides with the snips and the top wider area he would place the speed square and cut the mark line "like twice" with a sheetrock knife and then move up and down and it pops off easily.
Hi- great videos sir! We work with metal stud all the time. Once we laser measure a wall, we cut the whole bundle of 10 at once- saves a lot of time. Thanks!
Building a home theater room in my basement, these videos are super helpful. Only thing is I never realized how much crap you have to buy because it's a basement and there's moisture. Came here to find out how to use the metal studs because it's $7 for an 8' board. And after watching I'm about $700 in my home depot cart 😞🤦
basically in Europe we use OLNLY steel framing, never used wood framing in our concrete-bricks built houses, wooden houses usually use Xlam for the perimeter walls, interior walls framing is steel framing too. As for the cutting we use a straight scissor, not angled. We use Beta tools for the most, expensive but high quality. To fix the studs we also use a special crimping tool or the same flat head screw you use. As for the level we use a 2 meters long magnetic level, not a short one. Good job buddy, when I was 23 I worked in this sector for 15 years... a lot of drywalls :))
i dont know why i watched this I am not going to do a basement or anything but the way he talks kept me interested + i would love to do a proper basement eventhough i am in northern California where basements dont exist. other words nice video i liked
Have watched a lot of your videos. This is a new chapter with Steel framing I'm about to do. If only you had a video that showed adding a wall to a finished basement with a drop ceiling... steel or wood.
Jeff mentions in the video that the metal framing was purchased at a wholesaler, but the above links don't include that store in Ottawa. Would it be possible to get the store name for wholesale metal framing? Thanks
I'm demoing some closets and putting in a J&J bathroom onto a slab house in Florida. A friend said I should look into steel studs so I took a look at this video and yes, it would be much easier. Then I went to price out the studs. Over $10 per stud!!! Price of steel has gone way through the roof. Wood's coming down a bit. I can get a 2x4 for about $6. Still a lot, but way cheaper than the steel. Would have been nice to use, but not at current prices.
Is there a difference from concrete floors in houses and concrete in commercial buildings? I'm Interior Exterior Specialist by trade. We shoot track down directly on top of concrete all the time. Also plumbing and electrical goes up from the floor through holes we cut on in the track and studs. Super fun trade by the way if you like hard work.
Great video. A little trick when cutting your studs. Use the metal cutter to cut the sides and just bend the piece back and forth till it breaks off. Cutting across with the metal cutter is way harder.
Hi Jeff, Two things: First, amazing video! I am a 65 year old woman who has been intimidated by steel framing, and it is getting harder and harder for me to carry 2 x 4s around. Thanks to you, I am prepared to try steel framing for the first time. Second, you mention some source for steel framing supplies, but I do not know what you are talking about. Home Depot does not carry 16' lengths, which is what I need for my project, but I only need a small amount. Can you send me in the right direction? Thank you!
1) when you use the Tyvek, what type of fastener do you use to attach it to the concrete wall? how far up of the wall the Tyvek need to cover or seal off to prevent moisture get up into the joist? 2) I saw other videos that you water proofing the floor with membrane, big rolls with bumps, how is that membrane layer play with this setup? is the membrane goes from wall to wall up against the Tyvek or just inside the framed floor only? 3) Instead of using 2x4 treated, can I use composite (Trek or alike) 2x4? 4) Can I use 2" thick pink foam board against the Tyvek? then frame then add more insulation? as always, great video
Thank you for the video. I used a number of the techniques shown. Using the spring clips is genius and using the metal screws closer to the edge made it much easier to connect the metal studs. I got a bit crazy with a project. I purchased metal studs from Lowe's and made a frame work. Then attached the metal skirting from my mobile home. Then in the cavities I inserted mineral wool insulation and on the back of the frame I used my Worx brad staple nail gun to attach 30lb. tar paper to the back side. I made put the panels on 2x12x18 cement bricks with thick plastic under to keep water from wicking up into the metal. I can slide the panels out fairly easily. I made the panels either 48" or 32" depending on what was needed on that side of the mobile home.
In NH basement foundation walls need to be sealed first with drylock before you start and track goes on top of a barrier like sill seal. And no breaks like you have with the pt.
I have ripped out many basement floors and steel studded walls. even pressure treated lumber will rot under steel track. Put Dorken Delta-FL on top of any concrete floor and you are protected. If you want to just put walls on the concrete floor, buy a roll, cut in strip and tape to bottom of pressure treated plate.
I love how he doesnt just cut and paste but shows exactly that nobody and nothing is perfect it just has to be Good enough like the steel being a little short I thought u need to put a screw in the front and back of the wall stud to the one on the floor its the little tips will save u a bunch of headache
I framed many buildings from office space, libraries, churches, factories...this is good for rookies. If you did it this way you'd go broke and hungry trying to make a living. Just a little insight, you start your 1st stud on 15 1/4" and measure from it so when your sheetrock lands on the stud at 4 feet it will be on center. I'll save the rest for when I want to conduct school.
That curved wall is a really good idea. Though too much of that kind of thing would be too much for me, as an accent, and a living feature, it will work perfectly at one point at the entrance to the bedroom at it's corner in my house. Masterful construction techniques, and acumen for presentation before a camera. A construction instructor with a personality, and sense of humor. Imagine that.
Don't use PT lumber with steel studs, especially in FL, that is a recipe for a giant pile of rust. Unfortunately he is not giving good advice here on materials.
I used cable ties with grommet holes to screw to side of the stud, then zip tie the wires. I bought the wiring grommets from Menards that snap together. Very good demonstration video. Question: what gauge are your studs? I had about a thousand load bearing heavy structural gauge GIVEN to me when a friend closed shop & moved out of state about 15 years ago. I framed the entire inside of the house I built with them. My major issue was, since these are heavy gauge structural steel, it is challenging to screw drywall & other sheathing to them as well as fastening trim & baseboard etc. We moved to the Missouri Ozarks now & have just enough remaining to build a 20X40 tiny home for our daughter.
Just purchased some land and was planning on building my home using container because I like the look of them. And advice on how to frame them, what studs to use and also wall insulation? Also if you could do a video on that, it would be amazing. Continue making great videos, and have a happy NY's. Cheers, Paul
for DIY is better steel. If you have your wood in your garage for weeks, it later becomes useless due to the natural tendency to bend. I have a bunch of steel frames in the yard from last year and I will use them now. They are like new ones :)
I have no idea why I watched this, I'm a 5 year union carpenter, almost 6 I must have just wanted that different perspective lol. Good video! The studs look much different then what I've handled in my time.
I could be wrong but I feel like this is quick to build but would make every job past framing be more of a pain in the ass. From drywalling to installing a tv wall mount, everything down the road us going to suck.
Hey couple of points that I was thinking of What do you think of 1-2 inch of foam boards before putting on your track as a thermal break. Also I was thinking of rockwool comfort boards bc they would be vapor open. Second what do you think of vapor barrier paint primer instead of the the true vapor barrier ? Also be sure to add plywood blocking where you are going to have cabinets. It will make the wall immensely strong 🙂 . My contractor did that for me as part of the job and it was ridiculous strong the cabinets were.
One problem. And FYI I work for the largest insulation company In Missouri. If you put poly on framed against concrete it will mold, this portion is incorrect and do not do it, if so pull drywall off one year later and check out all your mold
Thanks Jeff, I'm researching/planning whether for a backyard studio I want to do 2x6 wood or steel framing. I like the fact it's not as precise, that's a huge boon lol. 😁 I also like the fact it's stick construction instead of platform, since I could keep the framing in the garage and bring it over as needed.
They actually make all type of metal boxes with a wrap around bracket specifically for metal studs, all you need just a piece of vapor barrier for the boxes on the outside wall !! You can also go up to 12 receptacles on a 15 Amp circuit as per CEC
Last year steel studs were the same price as 2x4 studs. We framed a commercial building wall addition in steel even though it was originally wood framed walls. I am not sure which is less cost now. Wood or steel studs is the same manhours to install.
I'd love to go all metal...but 2x4x96wood is abt $5-$6. Equiv Mtl Studs are +/-$13. If you can direct me to the $5 Mtl Studs, I'd be happy to go that way..
Great video and thanks for sharing. On the outlet spacing, it is acceptable to have 12' spacing per National Electric Code section 210.52, so you should be good to save on a box or two!
Another super helpful video! A little too late though...I already spent about 2 weeks researching everything so I could DIY steel studs. But at least my research and plans are validated by Jeff!!
Question about adding the 2x4 when framing for a door.. You only put one wood 2x4 and I had assumed that is where you would hang the door on the hinge side. But you were rushing through your material list and you mentioned two 2x4s for a doorway??? So should you put one on either side or did I just not catch what you are pitching
I'm a metal framer by trade from commercial building doing build-outs and even homes. I know you're showing the video for the average Joe who don't know but you should also screw the back of the stud by using extension and you can screw through the inside of the stud with the point going outwards into the back as well. We normally use the little vise grip clamps and we usually have a pocket full of them just to hold them in place until we go back and screw them. and if you're using PT on the bottom you should put a felt paper between the PT and the metal stud so you don't have a corrosion happening later on down the road. Don't take this as knocking you cuz I really do enjoy your shows 👍😉
Extremely important comment. It should be pinned to the top of the comments.
How specifically would you screw in the stud in the back side ? I found it extremely hard, eventhough I am using 90 impact extensions, I found that I don’t have enough force to keep pushing them constantly
What does PT mean? I’m learning how to install and correctly protect my basement from moisture
@rfranco8552 why are you not using stud crimpers?
@@jae-nacoleman5427 pressure treated lumber
i dont even have a basement let alone a house but i feel like i can build anything listening to this guy
Same here 😅😃
Jeff is literally my go to guy. Even when I know what I’m doing I’ll see if he has tips!
He is a great teacher. Thank you Jeff. Keep on doing your videos.
I love you Man! very clear teaching . Thank you very much for your kindness by making this video. 👌
100 percent true
Minor advice. I know Jeff is focused on other details, but for us/you DIY'ers, black marker/sharpie is great for steel frame work, but NEVER use it on drywall. It will bleed through the primer and paint and drive you crazy as you have to apply coat after coat of primer to cover it up. Only use pencil on drywall. Good luck!
It won’t bleed through Kilz spray…
😆
I have been cursed at by the painter for doing that.
Lol I use permanent marker still
You know it's gonna be good when the title has A to Z in it! 🙌
Good demonstration bro I am learning a lot bless
When you say "and this isn't galvanized" - yes it is. Those are zinc-plated studs. But you are putting them (light-gauge steel studs) directly on pressure-treated lumber, in an area where you spell out moisture concerns. We know pressure treated wood eats zinc-plated steel like nobodies business.
Use flashing, foam sill seal, or something else to separate the steel stud from the pressure-treated lumber.
geez was about to put the steel right on the pressure treated. Thx. Another tuber advises putting sill gasket underneath the pressure treated.
I wish I could like this 10x. I've been wanting to finish by basement but have been put off by the cost of lumber and intimidated by metal. Thank you so much!
You make more sense than any construction worker on RUclips. You are a fantastic teacher! I did construction for over 40 years.
Electrician here, we make holes in those steel studs all the time. Some of them also have premade cutouts for electrical conduits.
Yes, indeed.
ddo you use metal boxes on metal studs?
@@Ccoleworld3 Jon C Dvorak would say that's a good question! #NoAgenda
@@VRtechman It's actually Vlad Svertkoj ,Ok?
true
This is great, thank you! A couple of notes: in my opinion it's better to use track for framing the door top/bulkhead and around windows (top and bottom). When you bend the track and fit it around the studs - wood or steel - you don't have the issue of the bulge that you'd get from the curl on the inside of the stud (and don't have to bend it). You can use a regular miter saw with a carbide-tipped metal blade to cut 4 studs at a time. No need to cut them with snips. I even make a lot of my smaller cuts with the miter saw just because it cuts cleaner and quicker than snips. Track is easier to cut since it doesn't have that curl/lip thing that the studs have. If you're using snips to cut, you can cut the sides, then bend back and forth and it'll snap nicely and give you a clean cut. Also, I went with rigid foam against the wall and unfaced fiber glass inside the studs w/o a poly barrier. That's what everyone is saying is the best (effective and less expensive than spray foam) method to insulate a basement at this point. I'd love to see a video on doing soffits/bulkheads; it seems like hardly anyone wants to tackle that with steel on RUclips.
Nice tutorial. I spent about 1/3 of my construction life as a metal framing contractor. The only thing I did differently us using a small pair of reach over vice-grips verses the spring loaded clips. Much of the work I did was on multi-level scaffolding and the vice grips allowed the use of rope to pull up the cut studs from the floor as my helper made the cuts.
I have no idea if you know what you're talking about, but your presentation is 10/10...and your dad bod is on point too.
Years ago when I started watching this Ottawa contractor, I was amazed, even blown away, by his knowledge of the building trade(s). If there was a PhD in plumbing, or framing, or flooring, this guy would have a sheepskin on his wall; Dr. Thorman. Now that expansive mind of his is leading the RUclips world and giving us a 60,000 foot view of a lumber yard or a ship stuck in the Suez Canal as a tree falls in Canada making a sound that Jeff can perceptively hear. What a thinker! His common sense blesses me in Utah in so many practical ways.
I have been watching your videos with great interest- they’re just great! I just realized that you have the same voice as Saul Goodman 😂🤣 it cracked me up when I realized that 😂🤣
The subfloor system that Jeff described at the end of the video is game changer. I’ve used it in two of my homes and it not only makes it easier to manage the build, but it keep the basement so warm and comfortable when everything is done and you’re ready to enjoy the fruits of your labour. It’s easy and relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to prefabricated tile systems.
How did you attach the frame to the subfloor? Planning on using steel frame but debating if I need the pressure treated 2x4 under the track if it’s already elevated off the concrete.
@@apatton6022 I believe after 1:01:25 Jeff mentions that you can just screw your track directly into the subfloor if you go that route, which means you wouldn't have to purchase the pressure treated lumber
@shawnwinter are you talking about the dimple membrane? I read a lot of reviews on it that say it makes noise when you walk on it. I am just going to use Durafoam 3/4 plus toung and groove OSB. Fortunately I'm on a hill and I have zero issues with moisture.
Such a talent for noticing and teaching the small details that make life quicker and easier (and intentionally dropping the things that don't matter). It surprises me every time I watch one of Jeff's videos. It requires you to really "think" about your trade, and it's a rare skill IMO
Actually, 100 studs was right. What you wanted to double was the number of tracks, that is 40 instead of 20.
Apart of that, great video tuto. I just decided to finish some walls with metal studs rather than wood ($$$), but did not know how to use that. Now, I think I know. Thanks Jeff.
Thanks, Phillipe. I questioned that myself and was going to ask for clarification
Original counts are right. 100 stud and 20 track. 100 linear feet needs 10 tracks x 2 for top/bottom.
I love comment surfing. This answered my ONLY question of the entire video.
The comments win again!
Usually agree with all your advice but I have a few issues with this video. I never use pt inside. I'd use foam or poly sill gasket under plating whether steel or would as they will wick moisture and salt from concrete but pt also reacts to metal and eats through it via bimetal corrosion that's why we use ceramic coated or galvanized fastners on pt. PPE is important, I wear the thin anti-cut gloves as you can still handle the tiny screws but don't have to worry about steel slivers or cuts
I use to have his same thoughts on gloves but Nitril gloves that fit your hand tight give you amazing dexterity. Milwaukee and Costco sell big packs of these. They are great for construction work where you need hand dexterity and also nice when you do concrete or other work with caustic materials.
Thanks for the information! 👍
As for gloves, I use the MaxiFlex cut proof (34-8743, size 10) gloves. They make several styles, but the green ones I use I can put a dime flat on a glass table top and pick it up easy peasey. They take about a day to break in and then they literally a second skin. They also don't make your hands stink and will outlast the cheaper box store gloves 10/15 to one. They are highly cut resistant, but not stab proof. They are sized like surgical gloves. The zinc on the steel studs will also dry the crap outta your hands and make your skin split at the joints. These prevent this as well
Thank you God!!! I just finished 15 videos and no one had a close-up on how to do the cuts! Flipping infuriating! You da man!!
Love how he tells ya you HAVE to wear gloves working with this stuff. Just to not wear them hahaha. Great stuff as always 👏🏽
Sir no lie. You looked really frustrated with the people that don’t know what they are doing or saying on your comments . You are the pro. Boss I love the channel. I’ve been learning from you for a while. I just wanna say great job and thank you very much.
Every contractor is going to pick apart another contractors work, including his. Someone taught him how
Jeff always has the best instructional videos. Also like that you can do most of these projects with entry level tools which is something other you tubers don't necessarily show you. Nice work mate!
Steel stud framer, drywaller and finisher here.
Goddamn i LOVE THIS STUFF! Its easy for electricians to run their wires, bottom row of holes is for plumbers to run their pex and whatnot. Dont get me wrong, i love using wood 2x4s but sometimes steel framing is the best bet. Did and entire basement (it was about 26x28 give or take) framed the bathroom, laundry room, office and play room in about 2 days. One thing i can tell you right now though, USE PT WOOD UNDER your bottom plate. Its that extra little step and that extra couple bucks but really makes a difference.
what is the lightest safe steel studs for an house's main wall frames? ty
I dont know of a code that would permit PT on any interior, my preference is sill foam, not wood
I don't think i've ever had an hour fly by that quick, that's some efficient teaching lol.
Finally a video with steel framing, I live in Athens Greece and all framing is done with Steel but all buildings are build with concrete slags and walls are with brick and cement very helpful tips
yeah and probably 100 year tile roofs also.
I love Jeff's power grunts when he bends over or stands up, making a drinking game out of it tonight! He's the modern day, real life Tim Allen only better! Jack and Jeff perfect Saturday night combo! :)
See the Dry Bar Comedy, "Old Man Noises!"
We call those "Dad Sounds" ! 😆
@@ngonsor I remember when my dad made those sounds at about 60 now at 77 I understand the feeling.
All I can say is thank you for education and I have to say comments are amazing. So, thank you all for the contribution here.
This gentleman is truly a blessing for all of us who want to learn anything within the home improvement realm! - Thank you an awful lot!
Dude. I haven't even watched this video as I type this comment. But you are amazing to share this knowledge. My prayers have been answered because I was just saying wow, lumber is expensive, wonder if I can do my upcoming basement project with metal. Boom! here you are teaching it. Thank you!!!
Glad I could help! cheers!
Jeff just let me start out by saying, i love your videos. You my man are the quintessential jack of all trades.I'm a 35 year Union carpenter from Seattle. First thing is, the metal stud you had in your hand was galvanized. Here in Seattle all are metal studs are galvanized. You most certainly want to shoot your track down directly on the concrete. The other thing i wanted to recommend is using is spray glue adhesive in a spray can for putting up your insulation and your plastic vapor barrier. Just spray it on the inside and outside web of the studs for your insulation install and on the face of the studs for your vapor barrier. Also there are two types of metal stud framing, architectural and structural. Most DI-Y's will only be doing non-structural framing.Anyway my man i just wanted to say keep up the great videos, you are a mountain of knowledge that is appreciated by everyone. Thank you.
You have always been my go to guy for any DIY I do at home. Your no nonsense approve to building is just GREAT! The code review to doing things right is something that is not told by others doing instructional videos. I have learned so much from you and I truly appreciate ALL of your videos. Thank you VERY much again.
I'm sure you hear this all of the time, but I absolutely love watching your videos! I think you're a riot! And, I learn a crap load of information.
I was thinking about this the other day. I will never properly finish my basement. Sealed/painted walls and tile or vinyl floors only, and everything important propped a bit off the ground. I'd rather the basement look slightly less nice to never have to deal with ripping it all out when it gets moldy or the sump pump fails in a heavy rain. Been in too many damp basements and mine will probably end up that way as well some day.
Install Durock cement board 16 inches high around the perimeter of the room at floor level with drywall above the cement board.
Dewalt cordless drywall gun, was the best investment I ever made, and use the small batteries to keep it light, it makes a difference when your boarding all day, and cool little tip for cutting the vapor barrier on the floor, take the handle off of your sanding pole, and tape your knife to the end of it, and just walk along the wall, it saves your knees and your back
Thanks Jeff, we need more of steel basement build techniques
Great video! Wish this came out 6 months ago. We recently finished framing an entire tiny house with metal framing. Instead of the clips, we used locking C-clamps (similar to vice grips) to hold the stud and track together which worked really well.
Pro Steel framer here.....the C-Clamps are what we use everyday. The spring clamps are okay but i only use those for installing drop ceilings. To me not enough holding pressure..itll work but C Clamps are like an extra hand...you can REALLY hold 2 pieces together
So you can use these for studding your walls instead of 2x4? He just said it was 1/2 cheaper than wood.Wow that is a lot of savings on just the framing.
After considering Steel Stud in the Basement finish and listening to the pro and cons the verdict is out. Thanks
Love the ideal of working with steel. I know a gentlemen from UK who lives in Bohol Philippines that built his entire house with steel has a second floor as well. Every part of his house is steel except for the inside walls. He has done this before and would not do any other way. Termites and water damage wood there so anything you can do out of metal or hollow block is better than wood. Now I have to say thank you for showing me a new way of building w/o wood. Enjoy your videos.
Hey Jeff, maybe it's me but at 1:00:48, you changed studs quantities saying it's two for top and bottom but I think you mixed it with your tracks. Great video non the less!
It's not you. He mistakenly doubled the studs when he already accounted for the top and bottom tracks by having 20 of those.
Best yt channel for diy projects.. just used your knowledge today putting in a basement window. Now I might just have to use metal studs when I finish the walls. Great content!
Great video Jeff! Thank you, and also thank you for releasing your Spanish channel that honestly made me have even more respect for you. I’m 1st generation Mexican American and i love your videos so much, and am so happy to see you bring that to the Spanish speaking community bravo sir
yes but in the 60's mexicans would not let you hear them speak spanish because they wanted to assimilate, now they don't care about being americans because they believe that america is all of the americas. My peeve is that my neighbors don't throw trash out in my yard but the visiting laborer's do, what does that tell you about how they cars about our property, do they do that where they came from? sorry I'm in tx.
@@charleswittmer2477 yea just delete your comment.
@@fettyguapo lol!
i havent decided what i will use. i was sold on steel, but leaning back towards wood. nice thing with steel is you wont have to sort through a lot of bowed and bad 2x4s
I am a steel stud drywaller and have noticed a lot of people are looking at steel stud instead of wood due to price. In the commercial sector we just shot the bottom track to concrete and I have not seen a problem yet granted that's new builds. I have been done hole houses with steel stud and it was cheaper
Hi Jeff, I think this video has officially changed my mind and that I will use steel studs for framing my basement. Seems WAY more forgiving for the novice DIY'er. Thanks for posting this kind of stuff.
Don't
@@Super--Star I haven't started yet and again am on the fence. But can I ask why not?
Steel frames transfer heat or cold, google thermal bridging. It should lead you to a decision that will put you back firmly in the timber frame realm.
This video couldn’t have come at a better time. Doing a full basement renovation this winter. Thanks!!!
Best tutorial on metal studs on RUclips. Thank you.
your videos are on a whole different level of quality and precision. I'd hire you for any job and I've learned to do quite a few from you already. THANK YOU
Jeff, I've watched alot of your videos and I think this is one of your best ones! Exceptional detail and thoughtful layout of information for 95% of it. You must have been getting tired towards the end! Great video and I appreciate the great information you shared!
This is really hilarious to me personally because my father constructed a very poorly built tool shed all out of steel 2x4s about 20 years ago. And did literally every single thing wrong. Including building a concrete mold out of the steel that he then built the walls on top of. 🤣🤣
@Ghost K I never said it was still standing. 🤣
@DR PHIL no I mean he built a box out of the steel, poured concrete in it, then built walls on top of the steel that was then encased in concrete.
This video is perfectly timed. I was wondering just yesterday if that steel system was going to be much cheaper than wood. Here in Nova Scotia a 2x4 is going for around $8 or more each right now.
ON has it floating around $10
What am I missing? In ottawa a 2x4x8 wood is 5.35 and steel 3 5/8x8 is 6.45 at home depot. I was going to use steel for my basement theater for less noise traveling and thought it was cheaper. 🤔
@@dbinott maybe prices went down now. By the time that video was out, it was about $8 something on south western Ontario.
@@dbinott Down in NY wood studs are running about a buck or two more than steel studs. The wood has been fluctuating much more in price. Just for convenience though, this video has convinced me to use steel in the basement.
I watched a lot of Your videos recently (I started doing my first attic remodel and was kinda clueless) but this is the first one that make me think how lucky I am to live in Poland. I guess prices are much more sensible here. I bought a lot of this metal studs for the walls and for example 3 meter ones (not standard, here typical is 2,6 m) were around 8 PLN so around 3 $ (CAD) each. Maybe I'm wrong and wholesale prices are better - If I bought those at hardware store I'd pay around 7 CAD - but still. Differences in cost of building and renovation here are much lower than other eu countries, USA and Canada.
Just did a T.I. with steel studs, it's definitely a pain in the ass disassemble.
Nice video of steel framing. We are manufacturer of Light gauge steel framing machine and cold roll forming machines. Its easy to build house by steel and mostly to avoid forest destroy.
Appreciate all the help offered in this video. Don't think building corners was addressed here though. Sure could have used that.
laying steel on concrete with potential water or moisture can lead with time to directly rusting away. using proper green trested as your bottom plates is the way to go.
grreat vid...
Take a speed square and score a line across the face of the stud or track w/ a utility knife. Then you can snap the metal off instead of cutting it w/ your snips.
Metal Framer here using vise grips and a pls3 point laser would make things much easier !!!
Your Videos are great man, Thanks! I remember when I first started doing metal framing, this professional framer guy showed me a very cool trick. He would only cut the sides with the snips and the top wider area he would place the speed square and cut the mark line "like twice" with a sheetrock knife and then move up and down and it pops off easily.
it is called scouring the metal I think, it was a long long time ago.
Hi- great videos sir! We work with metal stud all the time. Once we laser measure a wall, we cut the whole bundle of 10 at once- saves a lot of time. Thanks!
Great explanation of how to get good this this type of building material!
Building a home theater room in my basement, these videos are super helpful. Only thing is I never realized how much crap you have to buy because it's a basement and there's moisture. Came here to find out how to use the metal studs because it's $7 for an 8' board. And after watching I'm about $700 in my home depot cart 😞🤦
basically in Europe we use OLNLY steel framing, never used wood framing in our concrete-bricks built houses, wooden houses usually use Xlam for the perimeter walls, interior walls framing is steel framing too. As for the cutting we use a straight scissor, not angled. We use Beta tools for the most, expensive but high quality. To fix the studs we also use a special crimping tool or the same flat head screw you use. As for the level we use a 2 meters long magnetic level, not a short one. Good job buddy, when I was 23 I worked in this sector for 15 years... a lot of drywalls :))
i dont know why i watched this I am not going to do a basement or anything but the way he talks kept me interested + i would love to do a proper basement eventhough i am in northern California where basements dont exist. other words nice video i liked
Have watched a lot of your videos. This is a new chapter with Steel framing I'm about to do. If only you had a video that showed adding a wall to a finished basement with a drop ceiling... steel or wood.
Jeff mentions in the video that the metal framing was purchased at a wholesaler, but the above links don't include that store in Ottawa. Would it be possible to get the store name for wholesale metal framing? Thanks
I'm demoing some closets and putting in a J&J bathroom onto a slab house in Florida. A friend said I should look into steel studs so I took a look at this video and yes, it would be much easier. Then I went to price out the studs. Over $10 per stud!!! Price of steel has gone way through the roof. Wood's coming down a bit. I can get a 2x4 for about $6. Still a lot, but way cheaper than the steel. Would have been nice to use, but not at current prices.
Is there a difference from concrete floors in houses and concrete in commercial buildings? I'm Interior Exterior Specialist by trade. We shoot track down directly on top of concrete all the time. Also plumbing and electrical goes up from the floor through holes we cut on in the track and studs. Super fun trade by the way if you like hard work.
Hahaha he doesn’t like working with gloves and likes the smell of freshly cut wood. Those are his reasons. Cheers man! Great videos!
I found 20 ga. at Lowes surprisingly! Most I've seen elsewhere are 25 ga. I'm only using at the base for a channel, so it will work great.
Great video. A little trick when cutting your studs. Use the metal cutter to cut the sides and just bend the piece back and forth till it breaks off. Cutting across with the metal cutter is way harder.
I cut mine with a Makita LC1230
Hi Jeff,
Two things: First, amazing video! I am a 65 year old woman who has been intimidated by steel framing, and it is getting harder and harder for me to carry 2 x 4s around. Thanks to you, I am prepared to try steel framing for the first time.
Second, you mention some source for steel framing supplies, but I do not know what you are talking about. Home Depot does not carry 16' lengths, which is what I need for my project, but I only need a small amount. Can you send me in the right direction? Thank you!
This is regular framing fpr drywal in europe. Greatings from Portugal!
Nao chefe
1) when you use the Tyvek, what type of fastener do you use to attach it to the concrete wall? how far up of the wall the Tyvek need to cover or seal off to prevent moisture get up into the joist?
2) I saw other videos that you water proofing the floor with membrane, big rolls with bumps, how is that membrane layer play with this setup? is the membrane goes from wall to wall up against the Tyvek or just inside the framed floor only?
3) Instead of using 2x4 treated, can I use composite (Trek or alike) 2x4?
4) Can I use 2" thick pink foam board against the Tyvek? then frame then add more insulation?
as always, great video
Thank you for the video. I used a number of the techniques shown. Using the spring clips is genius and using the metal screws closer to the edge made it much easier to connect the metal studs. I got a bit crazy with a project. I purchased metal studs from Lowe's and made a frame work. Then attached the metal skirting from my mobile home. Then in the cavities I inserted mineral wool insulation and on the back of the frame I used my Worx brad staple nail gun to attach 30lb. tar paper to the back side. I made put the panels on 2x12x18 cement bricks with thick plastic under to keep water from wicking up into the metal. I can slide the panels out fairly easily. I made the panels either 48" or 32" depending on what was needed on that side of the mobile home.
In NH basement foundation walls need to be sealed first with drylock before you start and track goes on top of a barrier like sill seal. And no breaks like you have with the pt.
I have ripped out many basement floors and steel studded walls. even pressure treated lumber will rot under steel track. Put Dorken Delta-FL on top of any concrete floor and you are protected. If you want to just put walls on the concrete floor, buy a roll, cut in strip and tape to bottom of pressure treated plate.
I love how he doesnt just cut and paste but shows exactly that nobody and nothing is perfect it just has to be Good enough like the steel being a little short
I thought u need to put a screw in the front and back of the wall stud to the one on the floor its the little tips will save u a bunch of headache
I framed many buildings from office space, libraries, churches, factories...this is good for rookies. If you did it this way you'd go broke and hungry trying to make a living. Just a little insight, you start your 1st stud on 15 1/4" and measure from it so when your sheetrock lands on the stud at 4 feet it will be on center. I'll save the rest for when I want to conduct school.
That curved wall is a really good idea. Though too much of that kind of thing would be too much for me, as an accent, and a living feature, it will work perfectly at one point at the entrance to the bedroom at it's corner in my house. Masterful construction techniques, and acumen for presentation before a camera. A construction instructor with a personality, and sense of humor. Imagine that.
Jeff, I have been waiting for this since I have steel studs in my FL home!
Don't use PT lumber with steel studs, especially in FL, that is a recipe for a giant pile of rust. Unfortunately he is not giving good advice here on materials.
@@rotaryenginepete that's what I thought too .. but if it's galvanized then maybe it's ok
@@Tzarsio PT lumber treatment contains dissimilar metals, such as copper. Even galvanized steel won't be immune to this type of corrosion.
I used cable ties with grommet holes to screw to side of the stud, then zip tie the wires. I bought the wiring grommets from Menards that snap together.
Very good demonstration video.
Question: what gauge are your studs? I had about a thousand load bearing heavy structural gauge GIVEN to me when a friend closed shop & moved out of state about 15 years ago. I framed the entire inside of the house I built with them. My major issue was, since these are heavy gauge structural steel, it is challenging to screw drywall & other sheathing to them as well as fastening trim & baseboard etc.
We moved to the Missouri Ozarks now & have just enough remaining to build a 20X40 tiny home for our daughter.
Just purchased some land and was planning on building my home using container because I like the look of them. And advice on how to frame them, what studs to use and also wall insulation? Also if you could do a video on that, it would be amazing. Continue making great videos, and have a happy NY's.
Cheers, Paul
for DIY is better steel. If you have your wood in your garage for weeks, it later becomes useless due to the natural tendency to bend. I have a bunch of steel frames in the yard from last year and I will use them now. They are like new ones :)
I have no idea why I watched this, I'm a 5 year union carpenter, almost 6 I must have just wanted that different perspective lol. Good video! The studs look much different then what I've handled in my time.
engineer from Tyvek, proud to see our
product. :)
cheers!
I could be wrong but I feel like this is quick to build but would make every job past framing be more of a pain in the ass. From drywalling to installing a tv wall mount, everything down the road us going to suck.
Hey couple of points that I was thinking of
What do you think of 1-2 inch of foam boards before putting on your track as a thermal break. Also I was thinking of rockwool comfort boards bc they would be vapor open.
Second what do you think of vapor barrier paint primer instead of the the true vapor barrier ?
Also be sure to add plywood blocking where you are going to have cabinets. It will make the wall immensely strong 🙂 . My contractor did that for me as part of the job and it was ridiculous strong the cabinets were.
One problem. And FYI I work for the largest insulation company In Missouri. If you put poly on framed against concrete it will mold, this portion is incorrect and do not do it, if so pull drywall off one year later and check out all your mold
Thanks Jeff, I'm researching/planning whether for a backyard studio I want to do 2x6 wood or steel framing. I like the fact it's not as precise, that's a huge boon lol. 😁 I also like the fact it's stick construction instead of platform, since I could keep the framing in the garage and bring it over as needed.
Do you do the studio you use wood or steel framing?
Best 101 video I have seen in a long time. Quick question, how do you attach the Tyvek to the concrete wall?
They actually make all type of metal boxes with a wrap around bracket specifically for metal studs, all you need just a piece of vapor barrier for the boxes on the outside wall !! You can also go up to 12 receptacles on a 15 Amp circuit as per CEC
Last year steel studs were the same price as 2x4 studs. We framed a commercial building wall addition in steel even though it was originally wood framed walls. I am not sure which is less cost now. Wood or steel studs is the same manhours to install.
I'd love to go all metal...but 2x4x96wood is abt $5-$6. Equiv Mtl Studs are +/-$13.
If you can direct me to the $5 Mtl Studs, I'd be happy to go that way..
Great video and thanks for sharing. On the outlet spacing, it is acceptable to have 12' spacing per National Electric Code section 210.52, so you should be good to save on a box or two!
Another super helpful video! A little too late though...I already spent about 2 weeks researching everything so I could DIY steel studs. But at least my research and plans are validated by Jeff!!
Question about adding the 2x4 when framing for a door.. You only put one wood 2x4 and I had assumed that is where you would hang the door on the hinge side. But you were rushing through your material list and you mentioned two 2x4s for a doorway??? So should you put one on either side or did I just not catch what you are pitching
There are special crimp tools for metal framing so you don't have to use screws. They make flush walls because there are no screw heads.
wow thanks
Ya, but if you make a mistake and need to move a stud they are very hard to move.
Thank you it’s a wonderful video easy to remember I always wanted to learn how to do this You are a good teacher I really enjoyed that video thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff brother the last 10 minutes was a wealth of knowledge. Well pretty much the whole hour 👍👍