I have a 2009 Impala and the same thing happened with the actuator. Gear teeth broke off. Found the Dorman brand on Amazon for $20, Autozone had it for $40. I had to replace the actuator on the left side of the glove box, that controls the heat/ac blend. Took about 10 minutes after watching this video and others. No more clicking!
I'm fixing to be replacing it for the 4th time, along with the cooling. My question is who is the idiot that came up with these!! I've had to replace my battery a couple of times because they go off any time, day or night, without the keys even being in the ignition🤦♀️
when tightening the screw using the nut and just your fingers, if you wrap a binder around the nut (or the extender) you will gain a lot of grip and be able to tighten almost completely by finger tip. Really comes in handy on the right hand side actuator where there is NO room.
Do you have a video on how to replace the one under the steering wheel? I suspect that is the ones I am having issues with as the drivers side only blows hot air, but the passengers side still blows cold air (when AC is on). Thank you.
Awesome helpful video. About the link to the part…Do you happen to know if this would also work on a 2014 Impala? It says it’s for 2004-2013 models. Thank you in advance
Unit above gas pedal. I ended up cutting a wire w finger nail clippers. Too much of a pia. I replaced the glove box unit 3 years ago. Had shop cut wire to the left and above of passengers left knee.
When you do this -- you should reach in and manually flip the door back and forth to make sure it isn't stuck or have trash in there. Because the gears usually break from the fact that the door got stuck somehow.. I've taken apart a 'drive by wire' throttle body on a 2010 Dodge Nitro -- and it looks basically the same, (plus a little fancier board with a sensor). But otherwise, it's the same kind of setup: Electric motor with a worm gear, and plastic gears after that. (the reason they use a worm gear is because that allows the motor to move the door, but the door can't move the motor. Those worm gears only drive in one direction/ in other words, if air was blowing on that door and trying to close it, it will not drive that worm gear- it CAN'T; The worm can drive the gear, but that plastic gear can't drive the worm. That's just a side effect of that setup. which is probably why the teeth are torn in that one spot. From the years of the air blowing on the door and moving it back and forth slightly, chewing up that gear on the worm gear. In this case, I actually think that second gear should be metal too-- since it's engaging with that strange worm gear, rather than a regular matching tooth gear-- like the rest of the drive train on this thing. Interesting) On my throttle body, the "butterfly" flap had gotten a little dirty or carbon gunked-- but I think it also got just enough moisture on it to freeze- and that's why the gears broke. (it was cold and snowing at the time)............ The thing is: even if they did put metal gears, it would probably just break the motor anyway -- or it would bust the plastic case that is holding the gears in place; there's always a weaker link somewhere. Again, make sure the thing that you are actuating isn't stuck or binding-- or it will just break again.
You don’t have to clock them. They spin until they hit resistance in the self calibration procedure and that’s how they learn where to stop in each direction.
I had to use the gear from the old actuator to turn the shaft in the car, so I could line up the flats on the new actuator. The gear teeth gave enough gripping strength to do this
I have a 2009 Impala and the same thing happened with the actuator. Gear teeth broke off. Found the Dorman brand on Amazon for $20, Autozone had it for $40. I had to replace the actuator on the left side of the glove box, that controls the heat/ac blend. Took about 10 minutes after watching this video and others. No more clicking!
I'm fixing to be replacing it for the 4th time, along with the cooling. My question is who is the idiot that came up with these!! I've had to replace my battery a couple of times because they go off any time, day or night, without the keys even being in the ignition🤦♀️
Thanks, yours is the only one, showing how to remove the inner glove box for better access.
when tightening the screw using the nut and just your fingers, if you wrap a binder around the nut (or the extender) you will gain a lot of grip and be able to tighten almost completely by finger tip. Really comes in handy on the right hand side actuator where there is NO room.
Thank you for the video my Michigan brother I as well live in Michigan that video was very clear and two the point I give it two thumbs up👍👍💪
I changed it 3 times already. I am done going for the 4th.
Do you have a video on how to replace the one under the steering wheel? I suspect that is the ones I am having issues with as the drivers side only blows hot air, but the passengers side still blows cold air (when AC is on). Thank you.
Just did it but still blowing cold air when I need hot oh boy. Thanks for the guidance
Awesome helpful video. About the link to the part…Do you happen to know if this would also work on a 2014 Impala? It says it’s for 2004-2013 models. Thank you in advance
Good video good information. You should do a video on splitting wood lol
I don’t want to bore my audience or I would! I’ve been doing firewood every weekend! 😂
Great great video great video
Thanks 👍
Unit above gas pedal. I ended up cutting a wire w finger nail clippers. Too much of a pia. I replaced the glove box unit 3 years ago. Had shop cut wire to the left and above of passengers left knee.
Did you have to "Re-Calibrate" by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and turning the ignition key on for 5 minutes with the engine OFF ??
Looks like the parts of the dash have to be removed to replace the right side passenger actuator...also the airbag, yes?
Set controls to ac recirculating Dash and foot. Before cutting wire...with car running. And after clacking ceased.
When you do this -- you should reach in and manually flip the door back and forth to make sure it isn't stuck or have trash in there. Because the gears usually break from the fact that the door got stuck somehow.. I've taken apart a 'drive by wire' throttle body on a 2010 Dodge Nitro -- and it looks basically the same, (plus a little fancier board with a sensor). But otherwise, it's the same kind of setup: Electric motor with a worm gear, and plastic gears after that.
(the reason they use a worm gear is because that allows the motor to move the door, but the door can't move the motor. Those worm gears only drive in one direction/ in other words, if air was blowing on that door and trying to close it, it will not drive that worm gear- it CAN'T; The worm can drive the gear, but that plastic gear can't drive the worm. That's just a side effect of that setup. which is probably why the teeth are torn in that one spot. From the years of the air blowing on the door and moving it back and forth slightly, chewing up that gear on the worm gear. In this case, I actually think that second gear should be metal too-- since it's engaging with that strange worm gear, rather than a regular matching tooth gear-- like the rest of the drive train on this thing. Interesting)
On my throttle body, the "butterfly" flap had gotten a little dirty or carbon gunked-- but I think it also got just enough moisture on it to freeze- and that's why the gears broke. (it was cold and snowing at the time)............ The thing is: even if they did put metal gears, it would probably just break the motor anyway -- or it would bust the plastic case that is holding the gears in place; there's always a weaker link somewhere. Again, make sure the thing that you are actuating isn't stuck or binding-- or it will just break again.
Thanks for the info!
Would both actuators be the same part in the glove box?
How did you install without clocking the new one to match the original. You cant turn them by hand to match the shaft
You don’t have to clock them. They spin until they hit resistance in the self calibration procedure and that’s how they learn where to stop in each direction.
I had to use the gear from the old actuator to turn the shaft in the car, so I could line up the flats on the new actuator. The gear teeth gave enough gripping strength to do this
Hello, Excuse me, what is the type of spark plug or spark plug burner suitable for Liberty 2007
The glove box has 3 rods on the hinges that slide right out and the whole glove box moves out of the way. No need to remove the torx screws
That’s good info! I’ll try that next time! Thanks!
😊
Good video but I couldn't see anything. Lol
A lot of repairs are difficult to do AND film at the same time. I use my phone for a camera so it’s tough sometimes! Thanks for watching!
I'll come be your camera guy
Nothing about drivers side impossible