That's pretty cool what you built there, and that's some serious equipment to have in what looks like a garage shop! However, I would ask if it is worth duplicating the factory design, when you could design something with fewer pivot points and much better geometry. My 96 with 4k springs and the afc live is so touchy, trying to drive easy around town, the slightest bump sends the truck bucking and lurching in the first 3 gears. And I know I'm not alone with this, after googling it too. I cannot perceive the movement of my foot, so I've taken to just jamming my foot sideways against the trans tunnel to stop it. (solid axle swapped chevy, but still rides better than my obs f350) Just eyeballing the geometry, it looks like the top part of the pedal movement moves the throttle the most amount of degrees per inch of pedal travel. It should be the opposite. If you look at the arm connected to the pivot part of the pump, where the rod mounts should be on the top, not the back. If I were designing a throttle system for this from scratch, I would connect the cable right to the pivot on the pump, not through a separate pivot point, then through another rod. I have no idea why they designed it that way.
Once I get some time I’ll probably make something that goes directly to the fuel lever. I’m building a Prostreet s10 now and it’s taking most of my time. I have to pull my truck in the garage and pull the transmission. It needs to be rebuilt. So I’ll have some time to sit and figure out something that is less expensive and easier for me to make. I have quite a bit of time machining parts and I go through most of the holes with an end mill so they are better looking and more precise. The cnc plasma does a good job but there is still a lot of clean up.
@@naudydave Any videos on the s10? Yeah, I don't know how I'd make it either, but I'd bet everything connected right at the fuel lever would be an improvement. Especially if it were a pulley style, to eliminate the wear point on the plastic end of the cable/cables.
The only problem would be you would need a pretty long cable for it to work seeing it needs to pull towards the front of motor. I plan on making some videos on it. Just been trying to just get it on the road
You can use a universal one. This is what I’m using www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/120002/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2MWVBhCQARIsAIjbwoOuW8fTROumnrfQVemklFYI3Gl8JQK9a5Fuy-Hg67nBhdfYESB0J9UaAprLEALw_wcB
This is absolutely the best ...he is a great guy... the welds are 100 times better then factory
That's pretty cool what you built there, and that's some serious equipment to have in what looks like a garage shop! However, I would ask if it is worth duplicating the factory design, when you could design something with fewer pivot points and much better geometry. My 96 with 4k springs and the afc live is so touchy, trying to drive easy around town, the slightest bump sends the truck bucking and lurching in the first 3 gears. And I know I'm not alone with this, after googling it too. I cannot perceive the movement of my foot, so I've taken to just jamming my foot sideways against the trans tunnel to stop it. (solid axle swapped chevy, but still rides better than my obs f350) Just eyeballing the geometry, it looks like the top part of the pedal movement moves the throttle the most amount of degrees per inch of pedal travel. It should be the opposite. If you look at the arm connected to the pivot part of the pump, where the rod mounts should be on the top, not the back.
If I were designing a throttle system for this from scratch, I would connect the cable right to the pivot on the pump, not through a separate pivot point, then through another rod. I have no idea why they designed it that way.
Once I get some time I’ll probably make something that goes directly to the fuel lever. I’m building a Prostreet s10 now and it’s taking most of my time. I have to pull my truck in the garage and pull the transmission. It needs to be rebuilt. So I’ll have some time to sit and figure out something that is less expensive and easier for me to make. I have quite a bit of time machining parts and I go through most of the holes with an end mill so they are better looking and more precise. The cnc plasma does a good job but there is still a lot of clean up.
@@naudydave Any videos on the s10? Yeah, I don't know how I'd make it either, but I'd bet everything connected right at the fuel lever would be an improvement. Especially if it were a pulley style, to eliminate the wear point on the plastic end of the cable/cables.
The only problem would be you would need a pretty long cable for it to work seeing it needs to pull towards the front of motor. I plan on making some videos on it. Just been trying to just get it on the road
Do you have these, or can this be used for a 4BT?
Are these available to buy? Can you mount a tps bracket to them?
Yeah I have a link in the description or email me naudydave@yahoo.com
No Facebook, sorry. Can you forward a contact so I can explain minor details and initiate an order? Thanks.
How much is your kit
Stainless one are 350 plus shipping and mild steel one is 275 plus shipping. I have a link for marketplace in description
Can the throttle position sensor be attached
You can use a universal one. This is what I’m using
www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/120002/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2MWVBhCQARIsAIjbwoOuW8fTROumnrfQVemklFYI3Gl8JQK9a5Fuy-Hg67nBhdfYESB0J9UaAprLEALw_wcB
How much for a mild steel and where can I place an order
Go in the description it has a link for market place
@@naudydave is like to order one, can you reach out to me
How can i get one
I have a link to market place and just message me there. I can send you my email on here if you don’t have Facebook
@@naudydave send link
facebook.com/marketplace/item/146860448366803/?mibextid=6ojiHh
How much?
Stainless ones are $350 plus shipping