7:48, I am 65 and "I" have never seen so many expensive things fail like they do now. Your answers to these problems lays on the Corporate share holders meeting room table on Wall Street.
Man, you just saved me tons of looking for an exploded view of that front diff. My wife's Driver side CV is moving all over and leaking. And now I'm just gonna follow your cue and rebuild the whole thing. Good times 🙄🍻
The trick for removing a bearing race from an aluminum housing is to weld around the center of the bearing race. Welding the center, not touching any of the aluminum will shrink the bearing race and it will drop out without any issue. This is the recommended procedure to remove a race from any aluminum housing. If they are pounded out the metal will remove a little aluminum and the new bearings will be loose in your case. Thanks for the video. Improvements would be How to set the backlash and how much torque on the bolts and nuts on install.
The Life of a Man, of course after it blew up, the wife mentioned it had been making noise for a couple months, she thought something was stuck in the fan lol. I hardly ever drove it, looks like an axle seal failed and it leaked the gear oil out..
Thanks for the video, super helpful as I'm doing this job myself. Question regarding the gaskets/seals you used. I bought all OEM from GM too. Wondering if yours are still holding up with no issue? Thanks!
They leak a tiny bit while driving. Sitting still it doesn't leak. I know because the under side has a little wet and there is always a tiny drop on the axles but never a puddle in the garage
As soon as I put mine in gear it starts making a loud noise that looks like the front drive shaft trying to spin. Do you think it is the front differential?
Hard to say without more details. I can say that the center diff is open on these so if you are sitting still and the front shaft is spinning something is broken.
My truck is having the same problem and after buying parts oil, cleaner and everything needed myself the mechanic wants $1200 for labor. Does that sound high or is it about right?
I have a 2011 Sierra Denali AWD. Something up front is making a slight rhythmic shudder that isn't constant. Maybe last like 1/3 of a second , then fades out and comes again. Its on the drivers side for sure. Checked everything else up front. Fluid was about 2/3 of a quart low. Does this sound like front diff is toast?
Nice video!! Thank you.. by any chance do you know if they have any LSD or posi cores for the front diff?? I have the same year Escalade and want to upgrade mines thanks
I think that they're all open and use the the awd case to transfer the power. The brakes is what manages the traction control. The rear axle in your rig is more likely a posi style rear differential.
@@TheLifeofaMan Many upper trim gm body on frame vehicles come with the Eaton g 80 rear axle that acts as an open differential until there is slippage then locks the rear axle. You can check your VIN to varify. My 07 Yukon Denali came with a g 80 rear axle. Some lower trim vehicles may not. All front differentials are open. Aftermarket does offer lockers for the 8.25 front differential. I would suggest a electronic locker such as an Eaton e locker, but it does put a lot of stress on the CV axles, so next you may need to look into upgrading those as well.
Hi there.I justed rebuild one, but when i drive at high speed i don't hear any sound and when i drive at slow speed i hear rubbing sound.please tell me is that normal of new rebuild or tightening of pinion with ring?Thanks
Hate to break it to you but that is not good. Something is not right. I bet you got a bad race or something. It is still making the noise at high speed, but other things get loader also to drown it out.
My 13 tahoe has a humming noise starting at 50. Goes away when I let off the pedal and comes back when I go back into it. In 2wd. Nothing is under pressure though?
Do you gotta drive it around for a couple mins/miles cause I’m sure I did it right. I had to change the seals on the cv axels and the gasket you replaced where the 5 bolts are.. after I filled it up with fluid 2qtr(dealership said 1.5qtr but mine ate two maybe cause I did it on the ground) But after putting it on I went to drive it no sound/clunking/grinding I shifted into 4H no problem(no noise etc) but when I put it on neutral and 4L(it engage normal) and put it on drive it was just revving my rpms and slightly moving.. there still wasn’t no sound/noise/grinding etc any suggestions? Help Thanks
So anyone have a theory why the bearings in these diffs are failing like that? I have been wrenching for decades and have never seen this except when was run dry. I am now looking for ideas what may be going on in the front of my Tahoe. Came across this type of failure in a few videos now. Makes no sense … unless the bearings used were really REALLY poor quality. Hoping that is not the problem with mine.
I personally think it is the shock from putting the vehicle in park/drive. There is tons of slope between all the drive axles and the trans so it shocks the front diff every time you shift. The rear gear are much beefyer and it doesn't seem to hurt them
I think it is the slack in the drive train. There is a noticeable clunk on decel and accel. If you take a wheel at the front then turn it there is probably 3-4inch of movement before all the slack is out and the rear wheel starts turning. I think over time it just shocks the bearing races enough the chip then it goes down hill quick.
The Life of a Man ours is currently doing that clunk on accel and decel... Was yours doing this prior to new bearing replacement or did it start after you replaced the bearings in the front?
@@specialized51 it has always done it and it still does it after new bearings. Design flaw. The bearings bad were a very loud wop wop wop while driving that was vehicle speed dependent. If you put it in netrual driving it would still do it.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
7:48, I am 65 and "I" have never seen so many expensive things fail like they do now.
Your answers to these problems lays on the Corporate share holders meeting room table on Wall Street.
Man, you just saved me tons of looking for an exploded view of that front diff. My wife's Driver side CV is moving all over and leaking. And now I'm just gonna follow your cue and rebuild the whole thing. Good times 🙄🍻
Nice video and insight man. Thank you. Great shop you got goin
The trick for removing a bearing race from an aluminum housing is to weld around the center of the bearing race. Welding the center, not touching any of the aluminum will shrink the bearing race and it will drop out without any issue. This is the recommended procedure to remove a race from any aluminum housing. If they are pounded out the metal will remove a little aluminum and the new bearings will be loose in your case. Thanks for the video. Improvements would be How to set the backlash and how much torque on the bolts and nuts on install.
Thank You!!! Owe you a cold beer!!
Nice video! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Need to do mine as well. Great video.
Thanks
Sitting on the side of the freeway waiting on the tow truck watching your video because the front differential of my Chevy Tahoe just exploded, lol...
That sucks! At least mine was a slow decline so it didn't leave me stranded.
The Life of a Man, of course after it blew up, the wife mentioned it had been making noise for a couple months, she thought something was stuck in the fan lol. I hardly ever drove it, looks like an axle seal failed and it leaked the gear oil out..
thanks for this video, my truck did the same thing and im gonna do the same thing. thanks great video
No problem 👍
Thanks for the video, super helpful as I'm doing this job myself. Question regarding the gaskets/seals you used. I bought all OEM from GM too. Wondering if yours are still holding up with no issue? Thanks!
They leak a tiny bit while driving. Sitting still it doesn't leak. I know because the under side has a little wet and there is always a tiny drop on the axles but never a puddle in the garage
good rebuild video ...
Great video but would have been good to see how you set the pinion bearing preload.
With an inch pound beam wrench
Great video, and I hate to be that guy, but would be nice to see you wear safety glasses when at the press.
Any time there is opportunity for debris I do where safety glass. I do not where them all the time.
As soon as I put mine in gear it starts making a loud noise that looks like the front drive shaft trying to spin. Do you think it is the front differential?
Hard to say without more details. I can say that the center diff is open on these so if you are sitting still and the front shaft is spinning something is broken.
Why was the air hose attached ? What did you use it for? @TheLifeOfAMan
If you can give me a time stamp I could answer that question better.
My truck is having the same problem and after buying parts oil, cleaner and everything needed myself the mechanic wants $1200 for labor. Does that sound high or is it about right?
Yeah it is a full day job and about $400 in parts.
You don’t need a bearing splitter, you can also cut the diagonally with a cut off wheel and split with a chisel
True, but it also depend on the situation and the parts you need to cut the bearing off of. I have done bunches the way you descibed.
hello is it AWD and whats the gear ratio. look for GU on the lable in your glove boxthnx
it is stock for an 2011 Yukon denali 6.2 AWD
Did you use the old case gasket or new?
I got new everything
I have a 2011 Sierra Denali AWD. Something up front is making a slight rhythmic shudder that isn't constant. Maybe last like 1/3 of a second , then fades out and comes again. Its on the drivers side for sure. Checked everything else up front. Fluid was about 2/3 of a quart low. Does this sound like front diff is toast?
Front drive shaft u-joints. Lube or replace it.
Nice video!! Thank you.. by any chance do you know if they have any LSD or posi cores for the front diff?? I have the same year Escalade and want to upgrade mines thanks
I think that they're all open and use the the awd case to transfer the power. The brakes is what manages the traction control. The rear axle in your rig is more likely a posi style rear differential.
rear is open also, but I think you are right I think it uses the abs to keep traction going.
@@TheLifeofaMan Many upper trim gm body on frame vehicles come with the Eaton g 80 rear axle that acts as an open differential until there is slippage then locks the rear axle. You can check your VIN to varify. My 07 Yukon Denali came with a g 80 rear axle. Some lower trim vehicles may not. All front differentials are open. Aftermarket does offer lockers for the 8.25 front differential. I would suggest a electronic locker such as an Eaton e locker, but it does put a lot of stress on the CV axles, so next you may need to look into upgrading those as well.
Hi there.I justed rebuild one, but when i drive at high speed i don't hear any sound and when i drive at slow speed i hear rubbing sound.please tell me is that normal of new rebuild or tightening of pinion with ring?Thanks
Hate to break it to you but that is not good. Something is not right. I bet you got a bad race or something. It is still making the noise at high speed, but other things get loader also to drown it out.
Yeah I noticed that too. Especially when he had his face real close to the press
My 13 tahoe has a humming noise starting at 50. Goes away when I let off the pedal and comes back when I go back into it. In 2wd. Nothing is under pressure though?
I do not understand your question.
What is the number part of the bearings ? if i can say please, good video thanks
Look it up under your Vin. I think there is 3 different front diffs in these trucks.
open the garage door for ventilation
Do you gotta drive it around for a couple mins/miles cause I’m sure I did it right. I had to change the seals on the cv axels and the gasket you replaced where the 5 bolts are.. after I filled it up with fluid 2qtr(dealership said 1.5qtr but mine ate two maybe cause I did it on the ground) But after putting it on I went to drive it no sound/clunking/grinding I shifted into 4H no problem(no noise etc) but when I put it on neutral and 4L(it engage normal) and put it on drive it was just revving my rpms and slightly moving.. there still wasn’t no sound/noise/grinding etc
any suggestions?
Help
Thanks
cant really help off the top pf my head. Mine was a straight forward problem with an obvious solution.
Was it howling in 2wd? My front differential is only making noise in 4wd
awd
Could you tell me all the torque specs you used would be super helpful about to do mines
I just google it. Some times I can find factory service manuals.
@TheLifeofaMan I'll have to find it, but i already built my transmission with a builder and did a stage 2 transmission build on my 6l80e
roughly how much did you spend in parts?
About $300 USD
You was able to just get front tires off the ground and pull diff not undo balljoints and all?
Nope, just 6 bolts on each side separates cv axles from diff
Yeah you do not have to undo the ball joints
Was there a gasket in between the 2 housing’s?
yes
So anyone have a theory why the bearings in these diffs are failing like that? I have been wrenching for decades and have never seen this except when was run dry. I am now looking for ideas what may be going on in the front of my Tahoe. Came across this type of failure in a few videos now. Makes no sense … unless the bearings used were really REALLY poor quality. Hoping that is not the problem with mine.
I personally think it is the shock from putting the vehicle in park/drive. There is tons of slope between all the drive axles and the trans so it shocks the front diff every time you shift. The rear gear are much beefyer and it doesn't seem to hurt them
So would a front differential from a 2011 chevy silverado 1500 work in a 2008 chevy tahoe ltz
I can not answer that to be honest, but maybe the details in this video can help out.
You add the fluid with the case upside down?
I dont think so...I know I got it all right once in the truck. Been running for like 3 years since the rebuild
Any idea the torque spec on the aluminum cases? Having trouble finding them
I just tighten until it feel snug. Been in there for a while now no leaks or issues.
How recalibrated the pinion depth?
I measured everything with calipers and everything was exactly the same so I put it back together like it can apart
Can u help me diagnose my 08 chevy tahoe and fix it if your on my area?
I am not really that type of mechanic
lmaooo nice heating it up with a grill
Works like a charm...just don let you wife know what the strange flavor is next time she cooks on it.
wow less the 100k and its junk ... typical gm
I think it is the slack in the drive train. There is a noticeable clunk on decel and accel. If you take a wheel at the front then turn it there is probably 3-4inch of movement before all the slack is out and the rear wheel starts turning. I think over time it just shocks the bearing races enough the chip then it goes down hill quick.
The Life of a Man ours is currently doing that clunk on accel and decel... Was yours doing this prior to new bearing replacement or did it start after you replaced the bearings in the front?
@@specialized51 it has always done it and it still does it after new bearings. Design flaw. The bearings bad were a very loud wop wop wop while driving that was vehicle speed dependent. If you put it in netrual driving it would still do it.
The Life of a Man ahh that sucks. Is that clunk the front wheel drive kicking in? It can’t be good what ever is going on down there when it clunks.
@@specialized51 well that's not good...looks like your clunk is a really bad bushing
Be a man 3 lug lugs 😂
No directions on how to at all
Channel is not a how to channel just stuff I do in my garage. If you have a specific question I will try to help out.
Who cares about the corbette get to the point