How I Figured Out Exhaust Restriction (Clogged Catalytic Converter)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video I'll show you how I figured out that this 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L had an exhaust restriction or a clogged catalytic converter. I started by connecting a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and measured the vacuum present when the vehicle was at idle. Usually a normally running engine will have somewhere around 18"-22"hg of vacuum at idle. I had around 12"hg at idle. I also revved the engine and held the throttle at around half throttle. When I did this the vacuum immediately went down to 0 and stayed there. On a normally operating engine the vacuum would go down initially when opening the throttle but is would quickly go back up. As mentioned the vacuum stayed at 0 when the throttle was held. So, I knew I had a restricted exhaust. The next step was to find out where the restriction was. I suspected a common restriction just because of the very poor performance of the engine. But, for grins and giggles I checked the cat converters by removing the O2 sensors and inspecting them with a bore scope. I did not see anything obvious so the next thing I did was run the engine with the bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor taken out. Both the front head and the rear head are joined together by a "Y" pipe so removing this O2 sensor would alleviate any back pressure for both heads. (Note: You have to be very careful when doing this as you can damage your vehicle by exposing parts to the extreme temperatures of the exhaust gas that will come out of any O2 sensor port. You could even catch the vehicle on fire. If your O2 sensor port is in an enclosed area and exhaust cannot be safely vented from said exhaust port without damaging close by parts or catching the vehicle on fire then It would be my suggestion to NOT DO IT! Try finding the restriction by some other means such as taking sections of the exhaust of and inspecting sections internally with a bore scope.
USE THE METHOD OF RUNNING THE VEHICLE WITHOUT AN O2 SENSOR IN AT YOUR OWN RISK!! YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR VEHICLE AND START A FIRE!! Also Note: I had to remove a splash shield so that it would not become damaged) Back to my story.... So I ran the vehicle without this O2 sensor in and it ran very well. So, I had a restriction in the exhaust that was common to both banks of the engine. Back cat, the cat converter after the two front cats, was suspect. Conveniently the back cat has a flange just in the front of it. I disconnected this flange and there it was. Cat converter material from the front cats had clogged the exhaust at this location. New converters and cleaning the material from exhaust was needed. And that's it in a nut shell.
Note: keep a fire extinguisher near by in case of fire.
Now, this video just shows how I discovered that the exhaust was clogged on this particular vehicle in this particular way. Though I show some diagnostic techniques this video is not comprehensive when It comes to showing you how to properly diagnose your vehicle. The video has very good information but it is not comprehensive. I would suggest using a repair manual.
Also, as a rule of thumb, I would suggest waiting at least an hour before handling exhaust and exhaust components after the vehicle is ran. If you don't you could end up with a very serious burn.
Also, It is good to note that there is usually a root cause of the exhaust becoming restricted. So, further diagnosis may be needed.
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DISCLAIMER
Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Follow the repair manual over this videos content. You can do it. Do it right and do it safely.
Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guaranty a proper repair using these techniques. 
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Something that alot of catalytic converter videos won't tell you is that when you have two catalytic converters as opposed to one, you're going to have different symptoms. Check both cats with a laser heat gun and check temps at both front and back of cat underneath the heat shield. If there is less heat on the back side than the front, Chances are it's clogged
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greyshus uv yuuuuu s.iiii..ır/misdur
Hey I wanted to say thank you very much for this informative video. I have been dealing with this check engine light in my vehicle and every videos I see they say the same thing “it could be a bunch of things but most probably it’s your catalytic converter”, but you are the first person who actually takes the time to show what a clogged catalytic converter looks like, and from this I now understand why check engine lights can be thrown. Thank you very much this was very helpful and informative.
Great video, I wanted to add an early sign of cat problems can also be cylinder misfire codes. My poor friend replaced his coil packs twice before he figured out the cats were falling apart when the car couldn't do anything more than idle before dying!
I lost a car like this, also bought the coils lol
I have literally replaced everything besides my (most likely) exploded cat. Finally called a shop today and they told me that my symptoms are engine related, over the phone. Yeah bro, the jar of marbles stuck in the center of my car is what's making all the noise.
Same
Bruh same
This makes so much sense I did a whole tune up on my car myself ran good for about a month and started losing power again. Flooring it couldn’t get me to 50mph. It’s still running but wish I would’ve known before wasting my money
I just discovered this exact thing on my 2001 toyota sienna xle. Engine power was nearly non existent. Removed the front wideband sensor and power returned. Separated the exhaust right before the final catalytic converter and the same stuff you showed in your video fell out. I knocked it all out of there and reconnected everything. The van has very good power now, and it has not thrown a CEL yet. Kinda strange. BTW, I have over 350,000 miles on this van.
Glad you at least got it somewhat figured out.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I changed everything on my car trying to figure out why my acceleration and top rpm sucked. Your video is the only one I found that illustrates the same engine behavior that mine had.
Did you have any check engine codes that led you to replace the other stuff first?
@@devinbagley6895 no did you?
@@devinbagley6895My Trailblazer didn't throw any codes even though I couldn't get over 40mph. It also had trouble going into 3rd and Drive and it had no power when I accelerated. I had to limp home at about 15 mph. I pressure-tested it with my compression tester and my hose melted off. 😢 oops.😊
I got this issue on my 07 Miata. Sluggish acceleration. However, downshifting so the engine surpasses 5,500 rpm usually fixes things.
What tube? My TB is having this issue@@2000jackben
Neat, haven't seen a video yet where it's all apart and in pieces to see; very valuable thank you!
finally a video that says top just stick a bore scope in and a visual inspection will give you the most accurate and definitive way to diagnose the problem, open the the O2 sensor ports and snake a cam inside with light and that would be the most definitive and easiest sure way of looking at the problem.
Now this is a great video, I see people including myself looking for vacuum leaks everywhere and sure enough never to be found, and then is the pipes that are full of debris from cats converters, unbelievable, thanks for sharing
I got vaccum leak code pop up, couldnt find the leak. Turns out its the catalytic converter
This video helped alot especially the trick to remove the oxygen sensor to see if your pipe is clogged or not! Thank you!
No problem
Great Detective work. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks again. This is definitely my problem with the 02 Tribute. I've blown 2 egr valves apart now. Gonna unplug the o2 sensor and run it till I can find a cheap cat.
Just blown 2 as well.when U cleaned it out did it go good again.
“that was the rev limiter right there” 😂 got me rolling over here.
Oh.. was that funny?
@@BarboursAutoHelp I don't think he know much about cars 😬
It appears that your exhaust pipes had honeycombs for breakfast. Nice video
😅😅😅
Thank you thank you for your video just confirms what I knew was going on with mine the same thing in my 06 Dodge Charger you just save me a lot of money you saved me from getting a motor
Thanks for the video. Very very useful info.
Very good and appreciated. My 2004 Jaguar XJ8 started acting up last summer. With accelerator pushed to the floor I am only getting 2000 RPM. On the road it would not go over 40 miles an hour. I first tested the fuel pressure and it showed 55 lbs, but replaced the fuel filter anyway as it was 9 years old. That did not help. I have had fuel restriction on another car several years ago. I am even more now suspecting it is the catalytic converter that is suffocating the engine.
I have 92,000 miles on it and keep it in the garage most of the time as I consider it my 3rd classic car. I am waiting on a new car lift for my garage and I can then remove the converter and test it removed or test it as you did by just removing the sensor. I know you can also drill a hole in front and back of the Converter and use a special tester that gives you the pressure reading at both ends. Usually used in commercial garage as a time saver. But since I will be under there I will just disconnect the converters, start it and see if it will go above the 2000 RPM . If so I may post one of my own here on RUclips.
Right on! Hope you get it fixed!
I know this is really late but if you just remove the oxygen sensor before the cat. and take a drive it should drive close to normal because you're releasing the back pressure if the cat. is clogged.
Wow right on point!!! I had boulders falling out along with some coal it looks like charcoal but runs wwaayy better now mind my car has 300k on her and of course is a taurus has pep in the step now and my rpms ain't shooting up after launching
I have a 2008 Escape with the 3.0 engine. I will be checking the back cat and probably may have to clean it out. When they melt like that, I don't know how the engine can breathe. Thanks for sharing.
Currently going thru this in a 2002 Buick park ave
Very helpful and well-done video. Thanks for sharing. I'm about to try this on our 09 Nissan Quest.
Thanks
This is excellent info, thank you !
My pleasure!
Good job partner you were very feral and you can understand you keep up the good work I got the same problem with my Nissan Pathfinder bogging down take the exhaust apart and check it
Wow that is me clogged cat 🐱 , thanks for the informative video.
Keith! Cool Channel. I believe that I have a restriction in the same place on my Lexus Rx 300.But, I used an infrared thermometer to check temp differences on various exhaust system components. The temperature at the entrance to the third cat (primary muffler), was >600F:whereas nothing else on the exhaust exceeded 400F. Iv'e changed everything myself and the truck still bogs down upon acceleration with random misfires throughout - no specific. Doesn't seem to have any exhaust leaks, but I'm about to create one by pulling the rear O2 to see if it runs like normal - slightly louder though. I saw you video then I saw you! Fantastic. - Keep in touch - Greg Totty
Hey Man! Small internet. I hope you get it going. Good to hear from you!
Incredibly informative and helpful video and description. Thank you so much! You happen to be in NY?
Thanks for the comment. No, I am not currently in NY.
Well, I can bet that by passing catalytic converter (removing it away) brings better acceleration and more mileage to such cars in which O2 Censors are fitted above their catalytic converters. 👍🏽
But it can be done only in those countries where Car Check or Car Passing in every year or within 2 years is not required 🙏
This is great advise thanks.
Great information and a wonderful refresher.
GREAT VIDEO!! Now I just need to look up the signs of one being clogged!!! I know only little about them. I just know theres extreme heat under car hood and not sure if this is the problem or not.
On my 1999 Chrysler LHS I know this one night when I parked I seen smoke so I looked out of my head and sing a cherry red light that was my catalytic converter overheated so yes they do overheat you will feel excessive heat under your hood that's a symptom
You the man regards from libya
Thank you for making this video.
Remove the cats and muffler so the fumes escape freely and any honecomb remains from the catalytic converter will come out your tailpipes after a few days (obviously depending on where you stay and the laws there regarding noise and emissions)...
Remove the muffler and cat??????
@@zephyrguzman6462 disconnect the exhaust before the cats
Thanks man that helped me out alot its great that I watched this thank u
Someone said coolant getting into the cat. could cause the initial problem.
My thermostat was about 15-20° cooler than it should. I not quite sure if coolent could get into the exuaust system from that or not. I wouldn't think so but maybe someone else out there would know?
I got my catalytic converters replaced by this shop. It cleared my codes but I got a o2 sensor code for bank2 sensor 1 and I replaced the o2 sensor still have the code. Replaced fuel injectors no change and I looked under the car today and noticed the mechanic didn’t put the catalytic converter pipe flush with the manifold and even left out a screw. There is a gap between the two. Can this be my problem with the o2 sensor code?
Yes basically where he left the screw out is an exhaust leak. It introduces air from the atmosphere and messes with the 02 sensor reading
Thanks for the video share, that was exactly what I was look for.
good tip on the o2 semsor removal to test.
Nice video thank you it was my answer
Thanks for your video. I had water in my catalytic converter and a lot a honeycomb I was wondering what causes them to go bad this was less than a year old?
never seen this many warnings on a youtube video 😂
Wow number 1 to like" that's a first. Great info in your video. Keep the m coming. 👍
Huge help. Had one cat replaced, but because it was cracked, sure enough, a piece traveled and wrecked another cat. It's been awesome replacing two of them. Not.
We hurt together, my friend. Hugs
Just did engine swap on my Miata with 190k on original cat, my car sounds exactly like this but 4 banger guess ill take out the header tomorrow! You don't know how many miata fourms i've been on
2 years later but hey, did you have any luck? I just engine swapped a 99 crv and it's sluggish too. Don't wanna give it away but I'm thinking about it. Did your Miata get any better?
This is exactly what my car sound like
Hi Keith,
Happened the same with my duratec mx5 NC. I gutted the 1st cat to see if I can save the 2nd cat. I have 2 springs that are connecting the exhaust pipe with the 2nd cat, whenever there is a bigger volume of air that cannot flow through the 2nd cat the springs let them out, making a rattling noise at high revs. With the unclogging (cleaning out the mouth of the 2nd cat) it became much better, but I think it still has particles in it. Can I clean it somehow? With water + some detergent? In your case you needed to replace the 2nd cat? TBH i did not go anywhere with it yet, can the 2nd cat clean itself out? I need your opinion before investing my time to get it lifted and cleaned somehow.
Thanks
M
It’s my opinion that replacement is best. I’d also replace the other. Did you get the root cause of failure corrected? I’d definitely do that before replacing cats.
@@BarboursAutoHelp 1. owner installed a sport 4-1 header (catless), 2. owner wanted to put back a cat into the header to solve check engine issue (instead of just relocating the o2 sensors before and after 2nd cat). He bought an aftermarket header with cat, that only lasted 30 thousand kms and fell apart, Mx5 NC mk1 has a little bit of factory oil consumption that probably helped.
My problem is that a genuine mazda midpipe (incl. 2nd cat) costs around 1800 usd. I might just replace the 2nd cat with a universal cat and relocate the o2 sensors, so I will have only one catalytic converter instead of 2 and no check engine light. The first cat (in the header, which is currently gutted), will be replaced to a sport header.
Since holiday season is coming, I will might have a little bit off free time, I will try to soak the cat into some kind of detergent and rinse it with water, would be good if I could save this original 2nd cat, since it worked perfectly before this all happened.
Had a 86 mazda protege and the front cat the honey comb was melted and plugging it up
Thank you helped me a lot great video
No problem
4ŕ
Great video thanks
You bet
what do you think would cause an even layer of smoke to emit from the surface where the catalytic bolts to the exhaust manifold (when the engine gets to temp) ?
Last time i checked the fluids and oils appear to be where they should be (the oil cap has very minor signs of milky residue).
we removed the pre/post sensor to the cat which i thought may have worked
then replaced the cat. but then not long after a bit of a run it seemed to come back
little tk barina.
Would've been awesome to get a video of you starting it and letting it blow that out.
The vid is very helpful, but on my Camaro, I don't have a check engine light on. I suspect it to be either my spark plugs/coils or my exhaust. My car wants to bog or shake when running idle and really bog down when I speed up, but stops if I slam the pedal or let off. I don't know which is the issue.
Never hurts to take it to a shop if you aren't sure.
I have the same sound with my 2017 ford fusion I’m hoping you can help me?
I have been struggling with my golf v 1.6 and discovered this video. I removed the catalytic converter and tried to shake a little bit, there was no sound and nothing came out. I tried to put some air trough it with compressor and it hardly came out at the other end. Now I will try to clean it with soap soaking 12 h. I read it some forum.
Do you think this is pointless? Should I just replace my cat even though it hurts my wallet?
Thanks for sharing really appreciate it
You bet
I know this is an old video but I was told I had a clogged cat. I unbolted the exhaust after the alleged clogged cat and the car was back to normal. Does this mean the restriction is after the first cat? Or would it still help?
Helped a lot thanks
Great video man did you take the O2 sensor off up by the motor or the one on the converter
which o2 sensor should be pulled? before where you think your clog is? what if there are multiple? should i pull the one closest to the clog or closest to the motor
Hello viewers! Just for the record. I would not suggest cutting out converters to resolve this concern. A repair of the root cause would be needed and then converter replacement. Many states in the US have emissions standards and have emissions testing to be sure that your vehicle is not in violation of these standards. The federal government has emissions standards for your vehicle. Albeit, the federal government will not be testing your vehicle. Never the less, I don't think it a good idea to violate these standards by removing converters. That is my opinion.
I have a 03 civic and I suspect a clogged cat...have a 02 sensor before the cat and 1 in the cat which should I remove to test for a clogged cat
Wouldn't the car run differently anyway because it's missing data from the sensorn
😂
Fixed turned out to be a bad upstream sensor
@@liveandletlive2894 i have a 03 civic too when I press the gas it acts like it doesn’t want to kick up should I cut it also?
@@lilrichhomietyjay6620 what exactly is the issue? Won't Rev up? Check engine light on?
Us it helped my mustang is doing the same one side is cold and the other is hot !! I did the regular maintenance to it spark plugs oil field injectors but now when I picked up I touched one of the Catholic converter‘s and it was cold but the other one was hot.
Ok
Thank you my car sounds the same way my cats sounds loud when i rev it like it clogged but in the front of the car I wonder why my car won't past 2000 RPMs trying this today
I solve my problem thanks
TheTootoo222 what was your solution?
@bankhead_662 I found out that all 3 of my Cats was clogged I had took them apart I saw honeycomb broken up remind you I did not have any warning lights on my dashboard before that my car was sounding just like this video my car wasn't breathing now with 3 new cats she running like a brand new car
TheTootoo222 thanks so much...gonna have to check mine your issue sounds just like mine
Another way you could tell if you have a clogged cat take out the O2 sensor out of the port and drive if all your power comes back bingo clogged cat is in your hands your welcome any Time buddy if you need help
Eddie murphy put a banana in the muffler
Ahk-welll!!!
I'm not going to fall for the banana in the tailpipe.
my honda civic 8th gen catalytic converter glowing red hot like it will melt down from the front header catalytic converter....and I feel loss in power when i rev it which sounds like engine misfire...what would be the problem...please help me out bro...😥
Sounds like you may have an ignition misfire. If raw fuel enters the cat then this could cause the cat to overheat. There is a good chance the cat is dun for too. Just my guess.
@@BarboursAutoHelp Great explanation. I was wondering exactly how misfires could damage a catalytic converter so badly.
Thanks much for video
Absolutely!
If it's extremely clogged, can this cause your car to overheat?
Yes if the motor can't release the fumes the gases and the heat all backflowd back into the block/motor causing it to run hot
Can also destroy your engine aswell
Thank You So Much . I’m finna order new cats . My 2010 mustang sound so bad I been chasing my tail .
I was finna change out my injectors before watching your video. Big life saver . Thank You 🙏🙏
When your cat is clogged it has to put exhaust somewhere..it goes into crankcase. . Found it by mistake once. Took cap off to look at timing chain..to see if it was so sloppy it was visible by eye. Car running. Took cap off car picked up and run perfect. Put cap back on 10 seconds later ran like crap
How about if you take both upstream O2 sensors off and cranks but does not start ? What’s your take
Thanks
I'm having very similar symptoms with my 99 Silverado. Idles ok, you can feel a slight rumble and going down the road it's fine until you hit about 65+mph. I can't hold it at 65 or it buckles. Also when running and in park it likes to rumble. Hopefully clearing out the cats helps.
My 97 sierra can't rev up past 3 grand. I'm suspecting this.
My trailblazer did the same thing. And as it got hotter it got worse. I had to limp it home at 15mph. I didn't have any codes either.
Pretty sure this is whats going on w my 06 explorer..started losing power, currently cant get over 45 mph. I replaced plugs.wires.egr.air filter and tps connector since it was frayed thinking I solved the problem. Helped slightly but not much. So I can pull the o2 sensor to alleviate some exhaust until I have enough money for new cats?
If it’s clogged will a code show up??
Great info.. thanks alot.
Question, if the cat is falling apart and pieces falling out, does this mean cat is not doing its job and will fail smog test in CA. Thanks my 2001 has similar issue will definitely check it. Thanks again
if its clogged will it keep it from running/idling at all I have to feather the throttle to keep it running.
Possibly. The symptoms are better or worse depending on the severity of the blockage.
My friend has a 01 oddysey and after it’s warm he has to give it throttle to start, we drilled holes infront of cat and it still does it. Time for saw zaw?
So basically you're going to want to replace that front end catalytic converter?
Got a charger with 2 cats and will 1 clogged cause a overheating issue ? Only heats up during high speeds
Can't you hear it from the end of the exhaust pipe, it will sound sort of muffled?
Well seeings how the exhaust has to flow through a "muffler" I guess it would sound muffled lol.
@@VictorPoulin nice
I'm trying to diagnose my catalytic converter, even though I don't have a check engine light on. The live data on my scan tool indicates that the voltage for my upstream 02 sensors fluctuate just as they are supposed to. However, my downstream O2 sensor (the one by the catalytic converter) remains flat at zero (0.0), so what does that mean in regards to the catalytic converter?
Id say if you don't have a code leave it alone. Sounds like you may have a sensor problem....maybe. why are you chasing that if you don't have codes?
I have a question, it’s actually kinda random if you were to break off the stud @ 3:30 how would you remove it. Asking cause my broke. Ty for your time in advance
Hello, Mechanic fixed the bottom catalyzer clog but still my V6 escape piston 2 &4 dont work, he says maybe local ones are clogged also? Or Computer fault?
What was the cause for a clogged and broken down catalytic converter, rich fuel mixture condition due to a faulty fuel injector or some other reason? If you don't mind please reply me coz I'm having a weird power loss, fuel economy and a misfire at 1500rpm with my car.
The vehicle in the video was driven for... maybe years with an ignition misfire. That was allowing a bunch of unburned fuel into the cat converters.
So did you have to get an entire new exhaust system? How do you get that crap out of there?
I'm 17 and as a child I will do this dangerous stuff >:)
Who cares? I'm 2 and as a baby I been doing this dangerous stuff for 2 years
Awesome. Thanks
You're welcome!
I don’t have a bore scope but I’m confident my cat is clogged for 3 months now and I’m risking blowing the engine because I have no money to replace it & I’m in NY which means I have to use a cat that costs 3 times as much as a regular cat at $1,000.00. I want to vacuum it out or clear out the clog but I’m not sure I’ll get the bolts off.
My car will start up and run doesn’t make any noise but when you go up a hill it has no power. It’s a 2007 Toyota RAV4 could it be the catalytic converter?
100 percent worth checking. removing the O2 sensor is a nice trick
Running that Fram filter... no wonder.
What's that have to do with a clogged cat?
Mine runs good till motor gets to running temperature. Any suggestions
Replaced my catylitic converter when I took the old one out the honeycomb was missing so I now know it fell out and clogged my exhaust.
If it was completely missing a previous owner may have done what I and many guys have done before which is get a thick metal rod and finish breaking up an already damaged honeycomb until it's completely hollow. Then all problems disappear except that you will not pass emissions tests and the check engine light will stay on. This worked in the state I used to live in as there was no emissions testing.
I just picked my truck up from my mechanic, because it was stalling out after driving for about 30 minutes. He replaced my o2 sensor. Said it was the cause. My question is did that fix the problem like he said, or is it possible it was really the cat??
Well....how's it running?
@@BarboursAutoHelp well it's not stalled out....🤞🤞
That may be a good sign. I hope it holds.
Me too!!
In a 325 TDS, could a clogged cat be the cause of what I'm experiencing?
It's basically loss of power in high rpm, especially in 1st and 2nd, where it feels like pushing above 3000 rpm does not much for speed, yet the rpm keeps going up.
Having watched this vid, I'm thinking (though a noob) given it's a diesel with a good low-end torque anyway, and at low rpm not as much air goes through, perhaps that's why there is not much issue early on, but then with higher and higher rpm, something seems to restrict everything. The engine whines from the RPM, but meanwhile a VW Polo goes past me quietly.
Also max speed in 5th tops out at around 170 km/h. Such a broad issue could be caused by a number of things I'm sure, but I'm hoping this may be a common set of symptoms for someone
I'm not much of a diesel tech. Sorry.
I have the same symptoms with my car 07 hyundai coupe v6. Low rpms it goes good and picks up, but once I floor it, the revs but doesn't pick up as fast, even though it kinda went fast at lower rpm. I suspect the front cat is blocked or severely restricted. I think the exhaust is choking the engine and it's not able to breathe efficiently.
Superb video 👍
Hows taking out the rear o2 sensor going to make a,difference? The front sensor is one that has to be removed from suspected blocked converter..doh!
You did pick up the info about the cat set up on the vehicle in the video right? Has three cats. Not a normal 2 cat set up.
2008 f150 5.4l same problem now. Going to find out tomorrow what the damage is. Hopefully cut both out totally.
Yes im hoping this is my problem in my 01 prelude i took the nuffler off and it not loud at all and i already was guessing it was my cat but now iv seen this video im sure thats my problem
QUESTION : I have a Porsche Cayenne that has no cel light on yet I getting a flat spot in power on top end ? Almost like I'm halling a semi truck ... Replacement of plugs but no fix. Now this winter my exhaust seems to clogged up totally in sub 0 weather. I had vapor coming out my clamps fittings near converter and 0 exhaust out my tail pipe. I'm guessing with my performance problem and winter freezing issue that my rear cat is 90% restricted and condensation from running it below 0 , freezes the little opening there is in the cat ? But why no cel light ? Am I on rite track ? Thanks
Not sure if you're on the right track or not. I'd say you should probably have a tech diagnose it.
Would this damage the engine, if it runs for like 10 minutes? I know I have a clogged converter. I tried spraying Liqui Moly but it didn't help. I wanna remove the cats and replace them with resonators, but I'm a bit worried about my freshly rebuilt 347 Ford.
What exactly are you asking? Please excuse me. Just want to make sure I understand what you’re after before I answer.
Was smoke still comin or the exaust while it was cloggd?
Did you replace both bank1 and 2 cats or just the last one in the rear? Which one was melting? Did you buy oem cat$$$$?
The owner did not choose to fix it. It was material from the up stream cat.
Ive got no codes but recently started hearing the rattle of death 💀 🔥 Dont we have to diagnose why we killed our cats? Ive read that cats dont just die they are killed by neglecting a problem somewhere else. I had no codes so I don’t wana spend all that money in parts + labor to then just kill my cat again! Help please!
Yes, I mention this in the description. Usually cat failure is caused by misfires or a rich condition ect ect. I dont have any videos going over this at the time. I'm sure you can find something out there to help you though. A good old google search will probably help you.