@@zoubtube I serviced (successfully) my Charger RC2 just yesterday and had you as support on my phone :D The only extra thing was that after bleeding, I cycled the damper a couple of times and attached a syringe again to check if all the bubbles were gone...
The 50 hours can be done while the fork is on the bike. A bike stand will make it much easier. Put the bike on the stand, remove both wheels to make it easier, then remove the caliper and brake cable holder from the fork and place the caliper on the frame in order to make sure you don't accidentally get oil on it. From here, it's the same process as it is in the video, but with the fork on the bike stand (write down your settings, remove the air, remove the lowers (make sure you have an oil pan under it), etc.) When you reach the point where you have installed the lowers back onto the uppers, you are going to fill the lowers with oil. Tilt the front end of the bike upwards on the stand so that the bottom of the lowers is at the highest point (hence why you should remove the wheels at the start) so you can add the oil inside. From there, close it up, clean it, put the caliper on, put on the wheels, and go enjoy your freshly serviced fork! 👍 The advantage of removing the fork from the bike is that you get to inspect the headset to see if it needs to be cleaned or greased. Ultimately, it can be done on the bike, and that's how I do it just about every time. Maybe I will make a video of it during my next 50 hours.
Hi there again - so i did the entire service, including replacing the known leaky seal in the 2.1 damper that sram says you cant do (ruclips.net/video/T7-ab7KQqec/видео.html). Seems I have 2 issues; there is a loud sucking sound on rebound when riding (which i had before i opened it) and it seems now to get 30% sag i need to run much lower pressure then suggested (70 vs. 83). It does have a 170 air spring in it but i did account for it. any thoughts? :) thanks !
Yup, The charger compression seals are replaceable, but it's a PITA to replace. It really was a bad design decision by rockshox. Rule of thumb is, If you're hearing squish sounds from the damper, then chances are very high that it needs a bleed. If you hear sucking sound from the air side, depending on how loud and long the sounds is, then that is most likely air transferring from the negative and positive chamber. With 170mm air spring, there will be a LOT more moving back and forth than let's say a 130mm spring, so it will sound different. Did you move from a shorter air spring to a longer one? If so, then less air will be needed in the system for similar results.
@@zoubtube its really hard to determine which side- ill try though; so if it is the air side, would that be normal or does it indicate air going past the piston seal? I wouldnt think so since i just did it. it was a 160 so just added 10. Just realized above i was looking for 30% when should be 20%. Ill look again...
wat a machine.... tks. I'll show it to a friend
THank you for taking the time to watch it and for the support. if you have any questions let me know
Thank you!
Thank you for watching it. hopefully it will be of use for you one day
@@zoubtube I serviced (successfully) my Charger RC2 just yesterday and had you as support on my phone :D The only extra thing was that after bleeding, I cycled the damper a couple of times and attached a syringe again to check if all the bubbles were gone...
Should I remove the fork for the lower leg service alone?
No need, but you can service headset bearings at the same time when you remove your fork.
The 50 hours can be done while the fork is on the bike. A bike stand will make it much easier. Put the bike on the stand, remove both wheels to make it easier, then remove the caliper and brake cable holder from the fork and place the caliper on the frame in order to make sure you don't accidentally get oil on it. From here, it's the same process as it is in the video, but with the fork on the bike stand (write down your settings, remove the air, remove the lowers (make sure you have an oil pan under it), etc.) When you reach the point where you have installed the lowers back onto the uppers, you are going to fill the lowers with oil. Tilt the front end of the bike upwards on the stand so that the bottom of the lowers is at the highest point (hence why you should remove the wheels at the start) so you can add the oil inside. From there, close it up, clean it, put the caliper on, put on the wheels, and go enjoy your freshly serviced fork! 👍
The advantage of removing the fork from the bike is that you get to inspect the headset to see if it needs to be cleaned or greased. Ultimately, it can be done on the bike, and that's how I do it just about every time. Maybe I will make a video of it during my next 50 hours.
@@kasparondrej2938 you beat me to it. thanks for taking the time to help him out 👍
@@zoubtube My pleasure. However, your response was much more detailed :)
Hi there again - so i did the entire service, including replacing the known leaky seal in the 2.1 damper that sram says you cant do (ruclips.net/video/T7-ab7KQqec/видео.html). Seems I have 2 issues; there is a loud sucking sound on rebound when riding (which i had before i opened it) and it seems now to get 30% sag i need to run much lower pressure then suggested (70 vs. 83). It does have a 170 air spring in it but i did account for it. any thoughts? :) thanks !
Yup, The charger compression seals are replaceable, but it's a PITA to replace. It really was a bad design decision by rockshox. Rule of thumb is, If you're hearing squish sounds from the damper, then chances are very high that it needs a bleed. If you hear sucking sound from the air side, depending on how loud and long the sounds is, then that is most likely air transferring from the negative and positive chamber. With 170mm air spring, there will be a LOT more moving back and forth than let's say a 130mm spring, so it will sound different.
Did you move from a shorter air spring to a longer one? If so, then less air will be needed in the system for similar results.
@@zoubtube its really hard to determine which side- ill try though; so if it is the air side, would that be normal or does it indicate air going past the piston seal? I wouldnt think so since i just did it. it was a 160 so just added 10. Just realized above i was looking for 30% when should be 20%. Ill look again...
HA! my bad im righ around 20% all good; just the noise thing then (whew>>) sny good way to determine which side noise is coming from? thanks !