I’ve watched several of your videos at this point and they are all amazing. You don’t waste time and you explain things thoroughly in a manner that is understandable for those of us who don’t have your level of mechanical skills. Thank you, and keep ‘em coming.
Legit info on how a torque converter works. Never put much thought into it til now haha. You've pulled back the veil on the dark arts of transmissions for me.
They're still voodoo to me. I understand the dynamics of the hydraulics. I've tried to trace power flow in an automatic repeatedly with little use. I want to acquire a one to tear down just for the sake of fiddling with the clutches and bands to manipulate it myself.
I really wish there were more videos like this that get into transmission repair. It seems to be the biggest point of failure in most vehicles but so few people work on them. If they go bad, the car gets scrapped because of the $$ it takes to get a shop to do it. Also 90% of the cheap vehicles for sale in my area have transmission issues. Again - thanks for this video. Would like to see more for different models!
Hi Alex, I just want to say that your channel is very good. The way you montage your footage and the way you film is the best. No handheld shaking and fast moving. Nice relaxed filming without making me seasick. And nice job off course on the cars...
Take it easy with "fake shifts", they don't always mean there is something wrong. Transmission control units have modes that allow torque converter to slip and let's 1st (and sometimes 2nd) gear to rev higher. These modes are used when car is cold (like winter cold, below freezing). Purpose is to heat up transmission fluid faster and also heat up engine (catalytic converters) bit faster. It has much to do with emissions. However, job like this usually fixes modern transmission and it's rarely clutch plates or actual torque converter that fails.
You are amazing. You do society such a service. Thank you sir. When I was young I truly believed I would never be able to have a new car so I learned early on to do maintenance myself. I was big into V.W. And now I’m into the VAG. I would take my car into the stealership and have a $5,000 quote. I just couldn’t believe it. At that point I just said I’m doing all of my service myself. So onto forums and RUclips. I am not a fan of Mercedes but did purchase one and as you know there is something truly amazing about them. Thanks to your videos I’m seriously considering an c63. Thank you for all of your time and amazingly informative videos that bring all of the small things that are not right into the light. Thanks again.
@LegitStreetCars, just changed the valve body and electrical plate in my e320 CDI with 190,000 miles. The transmission works like new - no more rough shifts and torque converter lockups. Your mechanical advice is outstanding! Thank you!
I had a mazda tribute that I bought for $500 because the trans would slip when cold and after about 15-20 miles of driving it simply wouldn't go any more. It was like a box full of neutral. After sitting for about 6 hours it would be fine and do it all over again. The problem was the radiator!!! The part of the radiator that the trans fluid passed through to cool down was clogged up and after a while of driving wouldn't let any fluid pass through causing none of the clutches to engage. Instead of replacing the radiator, I bought a heavy duty transmission cooler from Autozone and bypassed the radiator all together. It worked perfectly after that. No shifting problems and the trans cooler kit was about $100. Well worth it!!!
@@friesarecurly Process of elimination. The clutches were engaging through all gears when cold but not fully. This eliminated the TCU. The clutches engaged when cold but not hot which eliminated the clutches. If they were bad, they just wouldn't work. I then thought it may be the pump so I removed the line from the trans to the cooler. It had good flow and pressure even when the trans was hot and wasn't working Next step was to re-connect the line into the radiator and disconnect the trans fluid return. Even though there was good flow and pressure going into the radiator there was just a slow trickle coming out. I bypassed the radiator cooler and just ran the line in a loop and it worked like new! there wasn't even a slip. There has to be some kind of trans cooling for the fluid so instead of buying a whole new radiator, I bypassed it with a nice trans cooler from the parts store.
On a truck, even a small truck like a tribute, it never hurts to add a trans cooler anyway. Trans fluid basically can never be 'over-cooled' (I believe its ideal temp is around 180F and lower doesn't really hurt unless it's cold) Since radiators run at 180-220F depending on the vehicle, that's just too hot for transmission fluid. It keeps it out of the danger zone of 260F but not by a good margin.
My wife bought a Tribute from her brother which he bought from new. Vehicle was in very good condition but when I drove it it was slipping going from 1st to 2nd in the auto. I thought, looks like we maybe up for a new auto in the near future. I suggested an auto service which helped but didn't completely resolve the issue, On its next 10.000km service again did an auto service & it works fine now. Vehicle has now done 250,000 kms & we just service the auto when a regular service is due. It appears just flushing out the old trans fluid has done the trick - cheap fix.
Great video, Alex! Keep em coming! Many of us C55 owners with a similar 722.6 transmission have solved the torque converter ‘bump’ by replacing the TCC/PWM solenoid.
Alex, after 7 years and 7 W210s this is probably the best 722.6 video I've found on RUclips. Sorry for doubting you on checking the fluid on the other cdi!
One of the biggest reasons for "lifetime" fluid is to lower the cars total emissions. Think about how much less fluid waste is calculated into the millions of cars sold adds up. This helps Mercedes (every auto maker) claim their car pollutes less. Similar with the extended oil changes, save a few gallons of oil per car, on millions of cars, equals big savings, big money etc... Thankfully this trend is starting to come back to more reasonable numbers.
Toyota has been pushing lifetime ATF fluid for long time. I have been discouraged by the dealerships and mechanics. But I told them it's my car and I am changing ATF fluid regardless what they said. LifeTime ATF fluid does not come with life time transmission warranty.
I also didn't believe the lifetime claims, but I waited until my '07 Camry reached 100K, then had the dealer change the fluid. The WS fluid is expensive, maybe a ripoff, but I paid the couple hundred $ for peace of mind.
"Lifetime" oil = car leaseplan life, 7 years max. But you are right service garages raise an eyebrow when you come in talking preventative maintainence.
@@michaelmcfeely6588 but did they do a complete fluid change and without flushing it, and how many quarts or liters were used to do the chsnge? And I don't wait that long as any contaminants from manufacturing etc have already caused some wear plus fluid degradation regardless of claims. 100 K is miles yes? Fluid is fluid but I only go with OEM as it's formulated for a particular OEMs AT transmission. Most ATF has a similar pinkish look new and the odor is the same. To me it smells like the standard ATF FLUID that most mfrs used way back when that being Dexron or Dexron II. I uncorked a lot of Honda ATs for 1st gen everything (civic, accord, prelude) and they had a rebuidable torque converter that you could overhaul on the bench. They went to a welded torque converter on the 80 Civic and more fully Automatc ATs after that. One thing I learned is change the hell out of the AT Fluid. So I'd rather spend 3 or 4 grand on AT fluid changes over the life or ownership of the vehicle than have to fix a resolvable problem by doing frequent ATF changes. So far that's worked well for me and no AT probs at all due to preventative maintenance.
@@mooglemy3813 - very good observations. I cannot overcome my sneaking suspicion that manufacturer's don't give two hoots about the drive-train's real longevity. The ATF changes colour with age and even very low use. It needs to refreshed with new oil. I want my car to last 20 years, to make it a truly economical purchase. I use it for 7 years and pass it on to a family member and then to a growing up youngster.
Excellent! You have a great way of making some otherwise scary issues seem easily repairable. I am now a little less worried about any transmission codes popping up. Now if only this was a 722.9...different animal but still manageable I think
If you look inside those valve bores ,you will find holes .That is for the fluid to travel from one side to the other.Now you add a piston WITH an O-RING,that is fresh and soft,it's rubber or neoprene.Envision an o-ring that is sitting in a bore that is 1/2 inch or .500" you may have a piston that is .499 or .4992 to allow for expansion.those are the stock pistons.now you add an -o-ring in a grooved piston,say the o-ring has a .062 dia it bulges out past the surface of the piston,the holes in bores are razor sharp ,sometimes they shave off the o-ring.just like a guillotine.lapped spools are better ,but that means you really must keep the fluid clean,yours was way to dirty.INSTALL and inline filter in your trans output cooling line to your radiator and change your fluid more often that ,would solve your problem,MAYBE......GREAT filming on the dissembling of the VB and explaining the kits available.
2 yrs ago I started flipping copart cars, now I have 5 Mercedes... I make sure every car is 100% when I sell it... You've taught me so much... Love the videos and loving my '09 cls550 daily... I spend 1-2 hrs studying @university of RUclips everyday often in your class... A big thank you...
I like your channel. There aren't too many RUclipsrs in car mechanics, etc., who are actually educated/trained properly to show vids of what really is the case.
Here in europe our busses with auto transmission are tuned to lock the converter in first or in second depending on the situation.Sometimes the converter lockup fails and the busses cant even go above 30mph.They use a very loose converter and the lockup is essential for normal driveability.Btw you make some awesome content,keep it going. ;)
I've been a mechanic for many years and have seen inside many engines and transmissions. I can confirm beyond a doubt that not only lifetime but extended interval fluids are mostly bs. Get your oil changed every 4-5000 miles and your trans fluid changed every 20-30k (but NOT flushed). Also don't forget brake fluid, ps fluid, differentials if you have em and coolant. I think ppl would be amazed at how little the hard parts of their cars fail if properly maintained. Remember, the car companies want you to buy a new car. As long as their "lifetime fluid" lasts past the average ownership time of the original purchaser they are in the clear.
Alex, I would love made a long version of this video for those of us who haven't done this work before but would like to try it. I think there is a lot of info in the parts that are speeded up that would be helpful when doing the job for the first time. Thanks for all the great content you put out!
The transmission electrical connector housing on the 722.6 should be replaced when it is COLD! (Check wis) if you remove the electrical connector housing when it is hot you will strip out the conductor plate.... replacing the electrical connector also prevents transmission fluid entering the transmission control unit. Most people don't know about this issue. Btw great videos! I too am a former MB dealer tech, I now work for MB vans in South Carolina . The 722.6 has been a better transmission than the 722.9, the dot 9 was never user friendly outside the dealer. Btw you forgot to mention using the dipstick tool for the .6 since the .6 never had an actual dipstick. I own a 1997,1998, and 1999 e300s...the 1997 has been a bit troublesome compared to the 98 and 99. Stay away from 1997 non turbodiesels the parts are more expensive than the 98 and 99
what is the difference in changing the fluid on the new 9 speed transmissions? are they like the 722.9 where you pump it is and then set when the temp is 40c? anything to worry about with the plastic pan? I have been looking for service info on this if you have a ling I would love to have it
dann hienn you have to "replace" the plastic drain plug, I think also it's a different fitting to fill, and the transmission fluid is different...I only did a handful of them until I left the dealership for good.
@@davidlanca5731 do you pump it up with the fluid and then let it drain the excess off at 40c like we do on the 722.9? I left the dealer about 10 years ago as well. god I hated working for AN
I had the 13-pin plug (Guide Bushing) leak on my Nag1 (Dodge Magnum 06), known issue. I took it to the dealership to get the new one installed. The tech said he couldn't remove the bolt holding the GB, it was stripped & spinning. Said I needed a new ECM/ conductor plate. Is it possible he didn't know, it was hot, and he spun the bolt and pressed threaded fastener in the ECM?! Mistakes happen... I'm doing this job here in the video tomorrow, including new ECM & TCC Solenoid.
Great advice. My 1990 Volvo 240 wagon still has the original Aisan-Warner AW-70 3 speed with overdrive transmission and it works perfectly at 605,000 km, or ~380,000 miles. The fluid is flushed every 40,000 km, 25,000 miles, and the filter is changed on the 20,000 km interval in between. The other thing that had kept it working properly is that on her way home from taking delivery when the car was new, Ma stopped at the parts store and picked up the heaviest duty auxiliary transmission cooler B&N made. The cooler installed is rated for 21,000 pounds. The fluid never gets too hot. It is the same with the back axle. The Dana 30 back there has had the fluid replaced every 40,000 kilometers unless Arthur has been in deep water, in which case it is changed immediately. Of course, being a Volvo 240, the first, comprehensive, service was done at 1,500 kilometers and was included in the price of purchase. Engine, transmission, and differential were flushed and refilled. Plugs, rotor, cap, and fuel filter were all renewed, to make sure everything was just so.
Great video. Nice job on the valve body rebuild kit. The automatic transmission is very complex but you did a good job on demostrating how it works internally.
Watched the video, was like, "right on, I can do this too!". Pulled my 722.9 valve body and find one of the aluminum rearward bolts above the valve body is broken off... way up in the bore. Anyone else encounter this as a mechanical failure? I suspect that the transmission had been 'flat rated' at some point in the history! Love the videos, keep making and I'll keep watching!
People should be draining and replacing the fluid. Most of those metal shavings from normal wear and tear kill your transmission. Even if the fluid does last a "lifetime"
No, just follow the manual of the vehicle, manual transmissions have a lot less parts and are more durable...example my 2000 honda accord coupe with a 5 speed manual transmission has over 190,000 miles and I recently changed the transmission fluid...the mechanic said the fluid was in decent condition for going over the fluid change interval which was supposed to be done at 100,000, shifts smoother after I got it changed. Manual transmission use fluid to keep the gears cool and have a layer of lubrication of gear to gear contact and synchros protection, they don't get changed that often.
That’s what the magnet is for. I just had mine checked out at 160,000 klm, never been off, sealed system, just replaced 5 Ltrs of trans fluid. The magnet had a tiny bit of very fine metal on it.
@@reyfuentes4572 Honda went to their own MT fluid some time ago. Prior to the change they use engine oil. However I wouldn wait that long and I'd change it out with Honda MT Fluid at 50 K Miles. You still can get a build up of metal particulate around shift fork shafts. And as you noticed it shifted smoother after a change. Draining the MT fluid and it looks ok isn't a proper evaluation as it is not affected by anything but prob condensation and that should flash of when driving.
@Rusty Highlander if it's got an oil pan like a Chrsler for example. They want you to change the filter. One other thing not considered by the buying public. A drain plug, a sealing washer, or a plug with a rubberized sealing washer and a threaded oil drain hole in the pan = cost up. So there are the plug and washer, no big deal right? Wrong!. Pan needs a drawing including the drain hole and threads. So add to that a drain plug bolt and or the washer two more drawings. Extra procedures to stamp the pan and thread or spot weld in the drain bolt threads. Maybe that's why dipstics are disappearing along with the Mfr not wanting you to change your fluids?
Alex You are like watching a guy who has put the puzzle together so many times you could do it with your eyes closed. Thanks for sharing this information and giving us confidence.
lifetime means the life line of the transmission....then boom theirs goes the transmission and you need a new car😂. Cause let’s be real no customer wants to spend 5k or more for a transmission when they can just put that money as a down payment for another vehicle
That's not quite right. Mercedes withdrew that recommendation years ago. They now require/ suggest 39k intervals. It's crappy because of that one time claim, Mercedes causes people to still believe that. Technically though, it's true. If you never change your fluid eventually it kills the trans. So I guess it is lifetime fluid:)
Lifetimes means the term period of the manufacturer warranty, and that is with lite use. With severe use (stop and go traffic, hot/cold weather conditions, or long commuting, basically normal driving) then fluid change intervals are stated by the manufacturer.
Mercedes benz currently requires transmission service at 40k or 4 years in the service booklet. I don't know anything about the lifetime meaning under warranty. Since their warranties are 5 years 100k, that flies in the face of the now suggested 40k/4 year requirement/recommendation.
One thing I don't miss about my w211 was the "adaptive" programming. If I was stuck in traffic for a while, when the traffic was gone, the trans was a total dog. Nice, however, to hear a professional busting industry myths about "lifetime" fluids. Very informative, as always, Alex!
My transmission was shifting hard, and so I disconnected one of the rubber hoses from the trans fluid line to the radiator, and ran that into a drain pan, started it up, and watched it dump the fluid into the pan, then I added about the same amount that was going into the pan to keep it all at about the same level. When the fluid turned from mud to clean, I turned the motor off. (Used Neutral). Then topped it off. Now it shifts very smoothly again, so I think the old dirty fluid was a bit thick.
Good job. But how many quarts or liters did you change out that way? If it's a V6 engine with an AT it may have between 9 and 12 quarts or liters or so in the circuit Nd that includes the torque converter. Also if you do it again get the AT up to op temp and you'll get a better change out.
Greetings from Germany! I love your Content! Just bought a W211 220CDI (150 HP) in pretty good condition, it runs like a new car. The previos owner maintained it very well. I will change ATF fluid, differantial fluid and the steering fluid, to keep the car in that condition. It needs a bit of paintwork, and it will drive an look like new. The best car is made in Germany, but the best Mercedes Benz maintance content, is coming directly out of your garage. Keep going!
Hey Alex, i know this is an old video, but wanted to thank you for this awesome content. I just "restored" my valvebody in c270 and swapped blue top solenoids and it shifts like never before. Thank mate
IMHO i have found that conductor plates do not 'wear out'. Olf fluid with bits of metal is the cause of almost every 722.6 cond plate issues.. You can easily see where the debris shorts out the speed senors circuit..Cleaning them has fized every one ..All nybody has to do is change the ATF at least once before 100K miles and it will be enough to double the life no matter what brand of car it is (47yrs exp on MB)
I have a problem with my 722.6 in my E55, after driving for 5mins the car goes in neutral ( even if it still in D, I lose all power like if it was in neutral ). P2561, P2560, P2500, "The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping (1 & 2 gear). Any ideas? Car is winter stored until this summer but I'd like to hear your input. Transmission still feels strong until the problem happens...
@@GodfatherBenz someone on here described an exactly similar problem with a santa fe, turns out the transmission fluid pathway in the radiator was clogged and wasn't letting any fluid circulate through after a few minutes, installing an external transmission cooler fixed it for him, maybe you should check that
Excellent ! Very helpful. I've got a 2016 E350 Coupe (C207) with the 9 G-Tronic - I've done 19,000 miles. The dealership are telling me that the fluid change is at 60,000 miles and they want $650 to do the job because it's also got to be hooked up to the computer after filling... Many thanks.......all the way from London !
Yet another great video Alex! My 03 c32 also has the 722.6. I was having a slipping issue, only when cold. As you advised, I replaced the conductor plate, filter, fluid and install the Sonnax sleeve kit. The issue is gone and the car has never shifted better. Thanks again!
First of all your content is always very helpful so keep up the good work! I currently own a 2006 c220 150hp with 722.699 5-speed automatic gearbox. This video in particular got me hyped a lot, mainly because I have the same problem and actually I have been dealing with it for almost four months. At the beginning except for the failing lockup there was a very strong vibration all over the body of the car coming as if from the rear end. I was lead to believe that this is from a failing torque converter. A shop which diagnosed my problem recycled the torque converter. A day later after I got the "fixed" car everything was pretty much the same - still vibrating and not able to lock up (not only between 1st and 2nd gear but also 3rd to 4th on low rpms). Eventually the shop found out that the radiator had mixed antifreeze into the transmission oil and the diagnosis was - quouting - "Go find yourself a new transmission and torque converter". A pretty expensive operation considering the fact that I had already spent a fortune on recycling the old torque converter and changing the transmission oil and filter. At the end I managed to find a pretty good quality second hand transmission. The radiator was also changed and again the oil was changed. However, when the car has been sitting for some time (more than 8 hours) and is still cold (or it is quite cold outside) there is a slight lockup failure the first couple of times when changing gear. I was really worried and pissed and I contacted a different shop for a second opinion and Star diagnosis. After a thorough 3h diagnosis with both static and live data (via referent values) the shop stated that the torque converter as well as the transmission and the solenoids are completely fine. Their theory is that since the oil has not been changed via machine the system has not been cleaned well enough and there could be some sort of jelly or debris inside the valve body or the transmission itself. My question is do you think this could be the problem (only mechanical) since the issue is present only when the transmission fluid is cold and the star diagnosis does not find any issues? Could it be that this torque converter is also failing?
That valve body looks like something I'd use a scalpel on vs an impact lol. Crazy how over engineered some of these parts are! Also glad to see you're surviving those low temps, hopefully we get lucky this year and have an early spring in Chicago. Cheers!
Changed my transmission fluid on my ML after 45,000. It was a totally different car after the change. Also did it on my w212 350 cdi around the same milage. Again, I felt some improvement. Now I own a CLS 350 cdi. It's done 32,000 miles i will probably change around the same milage . The car will be 6 years old by then. Best wishes from the UK.
ALEX---ABSOLUTELY SUPERB!!!!!!! BEAUTIFULLY DONE!!!! On your trans, the 722.6. From what I have read, it will do up to 750 HP without any issues, very robust unit already. You did not mention the shifting of the CDI's compared to your AMG with the same transmission, BUT with the Blue Top Solenoids. The AMG/Blue Tops will give you robust up and down shifts throughout the pattern. The AMG/Blue Tops are available separately on Amazon, not cheap though..
I have the same issue! When the transmission fluid is cold it the transmission keeps jerking between ~1400 - 2000 rpm, until it warms up. Some of it went away after a transmission flush, but not all. I'm planning on changing the conductor plate, solenoids, sonnax kits and cleaning the valve body. Hopefully that will fix it, because it's really bad right now when cold. Maybe with yours it's a tcc lockup solenoid that's bad(lets pressure through)? idk. Great video btw!
I just replaced the TCC solenoid on my 04 E55. 131k. Didn't even reset trans adaptations and this problem is 90-95% gone. A lot easier than the Sonnax valve sleeve that you installed, too.
That's exactly it... a manufacturer judges the lifetime of a car and associated parts as the length of its warranty. I wanted BMW to change my ATF at the 40k mile service while under service plan, which is the specified interval for ZF 8-speed boxes... They bluntly refused, stating that it wasn't a recognized interval. But after 60k miles, once out of service plan, they were all too happy to perform the service, provided I paid for it of course.
@@Gr0t0tter BMWs don't even have a dipstick the fact you would buy one of their cars is idiotic. BMW deserve to be bankrupt for their crimes against cars in the last decade.
Easily your best video yet Alex, I was going to do this on the ZF6HP26Z on my old BMW but couldn't get the car level on jacks and stands. All fluids should be changed by 40-50k miles in my opinion, engine oil every 10k miles for a normal engine or I halve that if the engine is modified such as a remap/aggressive tune. We don't go crazy for regular oil changes in the UK like guys in the US do, but cars are much more disposable over here. Love the CDi videos and am considering an E/S/CLS of this vintage when my current lease is up.
Good advice. At 5 years old and 40000 miles I had my filter and trans fluid changed on my C320 cdi with om642 & 7g tronic. 6 years later and I'm getting it done again this year.
I bought a used 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T automatic in 2007 that came with supposed lifetime transmission fluid. After experiencing shift problems shortly after buying the car, my mechanic was able to keep the transmission operating properly for another 11 years and 120,000 kms, just by flushing and changing the fluid a few times over that span. Now I have a 2003 Audi Allroad 2.7T with the 5 speed ZF automatic. This transmission is notorious for the torque converter clutch failing to lock-up due to a problematic seal. I had transmission torque converter DTC's early on but again had my mechanic flush and change the fluid. So far so good after one year and 15,000kms - knock on wood!
picked up a chevy truck with a 4L60E that wasn't shifting. Opened it up & replaced the shift solenoids and threw a fluid & filter at it, and it worked fine after. Also had a mid 90's dodge caravan, and the roll pin popped out of the carrier and ripped a hole in the side of the case, on a saturday night. Pulled it out, welded the hole up, and swapped the carrier in from another transmission we had junked (clutches went bad in it), and it worked like a champ for another 40,000mi until the body was too rusted out to keep messing with :)
The real pain with transmissions has JUST begun. With 9 speeds in econo cars the used car market is going to get real ugly in 5-10 years. By then people wont know what a manual trans is so there will be no reference point of reliability to compare to!
My C32 AMG has the “1500 rpm jerk” drives me crazy, but I’ve learned to live with it. My E430 is perfectly smooth. I might try these kits in the spring when I replace my rusted trans pan.
Hey thanks and I totally agree that lifetime transmission is BS. My 2006 Audi S4 V8 is now on 220k kms and I have replaced the transmission fluid recently so she FLIES. Thanks for your great information, much appreciated. Simon
Awesome video. Thank you! We Lexus owners also have to deal with the lifetime transmission fluid BS. My dealership does nothing with the transmission except replacing it at $3000 plus labor 😧. Can you make a video on how you replace the transmission fluid step by step? Thanks again!
@@lIIl_lIl_lIIl Thx for the share. This channel has ton of retro wave too. Akira Kaneda theme reworked one of the best : ruclips.net/video/ZIQAq754Sr8/видео.html
Hey @LegitStreetCars i own an E270 W211 E-Class. And I gotta tell you, the 5 speed automatic transmission is a tank! They are strongly built and are less defective than 7G auto transmission. However, you shall ONLY use genuine original Mercedes-Benz oil, in this case MBZ 236.14. And reguluarly change it after 50,000km = 31,000 miles. My other E270 has over 900,000km = 559,234 miles!!! I use genuine MB oil for the engine - 229.5, and i change it after 10,000km = 6,213 miles. Transmission fluid after 50,000km = 31,068 miles. Not even a single, single problem and im at 940,000km = 584,088 with the original engine. All i got to say is, that these CDI's are built to overlast you. Hope you get everything fixed! :) Greetings from ALBANIA, the biggest importer of Mercedes-Benz ever. Kings of the road as we say here...
Is it possible to do it without scan tool by just flooring the gaspedal from standstill until the car shifts into 2 or 3 gear? What happens if its not reset?
Thank you for addressing this. This is unfortunately designed into the vehicle to limit the lifespan of the major components. For all electronic transmissions the valve bodys need to be upgraded with improved parts. The wiring /electrics in the sump must be replaced (this applies to all) and if not performed soon enough a rebuild for the transmission. Replace the fluid based on the usage. Taxi vs antique for example. Even if you change the fluid religiously the planned obsolescence designed in transmission will cause the transmission to fail. But after a proper rebuild and regular maintenance any transmission will last indefinitely. I have a 79 bronco on its second c6. The first went about 400k miles and stopped shifting to third. I drove it for 6 months like that. Daily, powerglide style. Then it started working again. So I replaced it with a rebuilt c6 from jack Young for $325, couldn't pass it up. (with converter) It shifts like it's built, with all of the torque the built 400 has, it's scary to hit second wide open on the street. It's also a mud truck /daily with 35" swamper sx bias tires. Great video, thank you for this. P. S. The sonnax kits fix the shortcomings of the original parts. But they assume this kit will be used on a somewhat worn transmission so they make changes to take up for the wear and sometimes it causes problems when used with a proper rebuild. I dealt with my o1p for the exact problem and spent quality time with the rebuilders learning the elusive tricks. You inspired me to get a Mercedes diesel again, and I appreciate the heads up on the direct injection engine. Having been a heavy equipment and truck mechanic since the 80s, working on many Mercedes engines, driving a couple of 123s and a 116 diesel. I was shocked to see the poor design of the injector seals. Besides regular maintenance the most common thing to do was to time the injection pump to make up for wear. I personally have driven close to a million miles with no break downs or big ticket items. The bigger engines run even longer. Eyeballing an 82 300td. Ahhh, diesel wagon. 👍🏼
Same with BMW auto gear fluid. "Lifetime" my ass. I change mine & the filters inside the transmission every 60K. Works perfectly afterwards, esp. with a shop that has the pump machine and flushes the gearbox several times. Cleans out metallic particles from the magnets etc. The small bolts are one time use too so they get changed also.
U said change ur fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. What if we haven’t changed it in 100k or 150k miles? Should we still change it or leave it alone forever??
this myth that if you've gone too far between fluid changes then you should not change your fluid DOES NOT apply to mercedes automatic transmissions. The most common failure on MB transmissions is not that the clutches wear out, but rather gummed up valve bodies and solenoids from debris in them. If your tranny is acting up, change your fluid and clean your solenoids /valve body and your back to like new... My 2001 E-Class started having tranny issues at 190k miles, probably original fluid. I did a complete flush and cleaned out the metal debris from the solenoids and after I put it all together, it drove like nothing had ever happened. Most mechanics would tall you that it's too late and not not change the fluid, but when it comes to MB's, that is not the case at all.
I had an old Santa Fe with 230k on the clock. The transmission started to shift into gear slow and shift late and I knew the previous owner hadn't changed the fluid in many years. The fluid itself was basically black and smelled very much burnt. I was pretty nervous about changing the fluid after seeing many people on the internet claim that changing the fluid at this point would likely make the problem worse. I used half a bottle of Lucas stop-slip with the old fluid, drove for a couple days, then changed the fluid. I added the other half of the stop-slip with the new fluid. After a couple days the transmission was shifting normally and going into gear faster. A year later and everything is still fine. I'm not at all certain that the stop-slip had anything to do with my success with this, but I am sure that changing the fluid prolonged the transmission's life and made it drive normally again. Unfortunately the engine recently stopped sending oil to the top-end of the engine, and the old Santa Fe is likely soon to meet the crusher.
I changed the fluid in my daughter's car after 110K miles. She drives a 2006 Saturn VUE. The fluid still looked decent and the car shifts very smooth afterwards
As long as you use the correct fluid and filter, it won't hurt. The only time people run into issues is when the old fluid is masking an internal issue.
Very good video and i agree with you 100% ,the lifetime fluid is a fairy tale from the manufacturers to sell more transmissions or cars . It is even more important in hot climate and when you pull a trailer ! Which lifetime is it: the lifetime of the car , the owner , the transmission? Pls , Pls use only the recommended oil from the manufacturer , nothing else and don't trust any salesman they don't know it! You didn't make a "oil change" you replaced around 50% of the old oil , because there is still the old oil in the turbine!! So if you don't have a proper automatic transmission oil replacement machine ( to replace it while the engine is running like the specialised dealers have) , you have to change the fluid at least 2-3 times to get all the old fluid out. The old mercedes automatic transmissions from the eighties have a screw in the turbine to drain the oil, which makes it easier.
"have a screw in the turbine to drain the oil" I've seen the mechanic access this screw, but now I can't find it nor rotate the torque converter, can you give me a clearer idea of its location or a real photograph ?
My 2003 VW Golf never had its transmission fluid changed in 257000 miles and I sold it shifting perfectly fine at that mileage lifetime transmission fluid is only a myth in America as far as I know. Never had a problem relating to transmission fluid.
I have a Volvo V60 diesel 2012 model with a 6 speed automatic gearbox. I recently changed transmission fluid on it (Flushed it), and only that improved shift quality significantly. The car has done 155 k km's (almost 100 k miles). The gearbox on my car does not engage the lockup before the gearbox has gained some temperature. I can drive up to 4 - 5 km's before it engages. I think this is by design to avoid harsh lockups while the transmission is cold. It also helps the gearbox gain temperature quicker, in my opinion.
I believe my CDI had the same shifting issue as yours and it went away once I replaced the TCC control solenoid. I also installed the Sonex shift overlap kit and it made a difference.
Alex - You’ve got a great site but listening to a “Super ASE Mercedes Master Mechanic “ encourage me, thumbs Endelman” to do what you’re doing, .......... sorry my friend, it’s just great to see you work, ‘cause I always learn lots. Thanks so much; sure wished you lived in Phoenix. Dave in Phoenix Arizona USA
Kent just wants to sell his special tools anymore..which I understand he is in business but his videos used to actually be informative. Now there just hey buy my special grease applicator..guess he needs more money to fund the new house
125k miles on my ML350 and flushing the fluid in my 7G tranny has been the single best thing that I’ve ever done to improve my car’s driving feel!!!!! Night and day difference in smoothness of initial gear selection, coasting, overtaking and braking…always smooth as flowing water now!!
The Doctor - this distracted me from what he was saying and I ended up having to watch it three times twice with the video and once without! Haha!! This was my favorite part!
This video hits me right in the feels ... My Audi A6 3.0TDI (Late 06-early 07) probably needs its transmission fluid changed ... 271 000km without a change I suspect. Audi claims the transmission never needs to have its fluids changed or flushed, therefore they dont take this job upon them. It is also stupid expensive for transmission oil changes where I live. Sadly I don't have the tools or the knowledge to take on that kind of a job, neither do I have a garage and staying out in -20 would be a nightmare.
My e280 cdi won't lock up the first few km when it's cold outside. I have thought it was normal, to build up heat in the transmission, but now I'm not so sure. Great video, and I totally agree with the lifetime transmission fluid BS. Transmission fluid is every 60.000Km, at least for taxies, normal drivers can probably stretch it to 80.000Km.
I restored a 91 Volvo 740 transmission with 300k miles in full failure by doing a "slo-change" (2 quarts out of the pan every couple of months) followed by a full flush with new fluid. It took a year but it improved slowly with each change and now it shifts like new, was never down and all I spent money on was fluid.
Depends on the transmission. Anything with a torque converter WILL need its fluid changed at some point. A car like mine, 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, uses a very simple planetary CVT, which has no belt, no torque converter, and no clutches at all. It truly can be a lifetime fluid, though I will change it at 200,000 miles (currently at 178,000). A manual could theoretically have "lifetime" fluid too, but I would see that as a 150,000 mile interval due to syncros and gears going in and out of mesh.
This is way too complicated for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. The problem is not taking things apart, it's putting things back together. I have renewed respect for my mechanic now. Thanks for the video.
I have a 2005 E320 CDI which had a super hard shift from 1st to 2nd when starting out cold in the morning. After driving for 1 block or so the hard shift would go away completely. I did a full transmission flush (used 14 liters of fluid) and made sure the transmission was full afterwards because it was 1 liter down when I initially checked it. After doing this the car shifts so much smoother and the hard cold shift went away completely. You need to do a full transmission flush on your cars, not just changing the fluid in the pan which holds only 4 liters.
How often do you change your transmission fluid?
None on my KTM.
How often do you change your transmission fluid LegitStreetCars?
On a lexus es350 with life time fluid about 80k miles.
My audi rs3 sees new gearbox oil in every 15k mile.
Usually 40000 miles on the 722.6
I’ve watched several of your videos at this point and they are all amazing. You don’t waste time and you explain things thoroughly in a manner that is understandable for those of us who don’t have your level of mechanical skills. Thank you, and keep ‘em coming.
Thanks for saving me lot of stress fixing my car. You are a great guy with excellent ability to share your knowledge.
Legit info on how a torque converter works. Never put much thought into it til now haha. You've pulled back the veil on the dark arts of transmissions for me.
DONT take the trans apart when your car is on a dirty driveway,,It ONLY should be acessed when its on a clean concrete pad..
@@hughjazzole2037 shaddup
@@hughjazzole2037 pulling it apart is fine anywhere...bolting it back together is when it must be nice and clean :D
They're still voodoo to me. I understand the dynamics of the hydraulics. I've tried to trace power flow in an automatic repeatedly with little use. I want to acquire a one to tear down just for the sake of fiddling with the clutches and bands to manipulate it myself.
I really wish there were more videos like this that get into transmission repair. It seems to be the biggest point of failure in most vehicles but so few people work on them. If they go bad, the car gets scrapped because of the $$ it takes to get a shop to do it. Also 90% of the cheap vehicles for sale in my area have transmission issues. Again - thanks for this video. Would like to see more for different models!
Hi Alex, I just want to say that your channel is very good.
The way you montage your footage and the way you film is the best.
No handheld shaking and fast moving.
Nice relaxed filming without making me seasick.
And nice job off course on the cars...
Take it easy with "fake shifts", they don't always mean there is something wrong. Transmission control units have modes that allow torque converter to slip and let's 1st (and sometimes 2nd) gear to rev higher. These modes are used when car is cold (like winter cold, below freezing). Purpose is to heat up transmission fluid faster and also heat up engine (catalytic converters) bit faster. It has much to do with emissions. However, job like this usually fixes modern transmission and it's rarely clutch plates or actual torque converter that fails.
You are amazing. You do society such a service. Thank you sir. When I was young I truly believed I would never be able to have a new car so I learned early on to do maintenance myself. I was big into V.W. And now I’m into the VAG. I would take my car into the stealership and have a $5,000 quote. I just couldn’t believe it. At that point I just said I’m doing all of my service myself. So onto forums and RUclips. I am not a fan of Mercedes but did purchase one and as you know there is something truly amazing about them. Thanks to your videos I’m seriously considering an c63. Thank you for all of your time and amazingly informative videos that bring all of the small things that are not right into the light. Thanks again.
Sb: From 1 to 10, how bad the problem is?
LSC: My wife noticed it.
Sb: Oh crap.
Greetings from Finland! Im driving w210 200cdi with 528306km = 328274miles still going strong 👍
Onko tarpeeksi rapeassa kunnossa :D
Tell that to Scotty Kilmer, so he understands...
@@andycapo9you naah he's a fuc*ing clown.
@benz merc okay i dont watch his youtube channel
@benz merc Yes, because in Finland they put salt on the roads in winter and sometimes on sand roads in the fu*king summer...
@LegitStreetCars, just changed the valve body and electrical plate in my e320 CDI with 190,000 miles. The transmission works like new - no more rough shifts and torque converter lockups. Your mechanical advice is outstanding! Thank you!
I had a mazda tribute that I bought for $500 because the trans would slip when cold and after about 15-20 miles of driving it simply wouldn't go any more. It was like a box full of neutral. After sitting for about 6 hours it would be fine and do it all over again. The problem was the radiator!!!
The part of the radiator that the trans fluid passed through to cool down was clogged up and after a while of driving wouldn't let any fluid pass through causing none of the clutches to engage.
Instead of replacing the radiator, I bought a heavy duty transmission cooler from Autozone and bypassed the radiator all together. It worked perfectly after that. No shifting problems and the trans cooler kit was about $100. Well worth it!!!
Trevor Haynes how’d you catch it was the radiator? I never would’ve thought of that
@@friesarecurly Process of elimination. The clutches were engaging through all gears when cold but not fully. This eliminated the TCU.
The clutches engaged when cold but not hot which eliminated the clutches. If they were bad, they just wouldn't work.
I then thought it may be the pump so I removed the line from the trans to the cooler. It had good flow and pressure even when the trans was hot and wasn't working
Next step was to re-connect the line into the radiator and disconnect the trans fluid return.
Even though there was good flow and pressure going into the radiator there was just a slow trickle coming out.
I bypassed the radiator cooler and just ran the line in a loop and it worked like new! there wasn't even a slip.
There has to be some kind of trans cooling for the fluid so instead of buying a whole new radiator, I bypassed it with a nice trans cooler from the parts store.
On a truck, even a small truck like a tribute, it never hurts to add a trans cooler anyway. Trans fluid basically can never be 'over-cooled' (I believe its ideal temp is around 180F and lower doesn't really hurt unless it's cold)
Since radiators run at 180-220F depending on the vehicle, that's just too hot for transmission fluid. It keeps it out of the danger zone of 260F but not by a good margin.
Smart!
My wife bought a Tribute from her brother which he bought from new. Vehicle was in very good condition but when I drove it it was slipping going from 1st to 2nd in the auto. I thought, looks like we maybe up for a new auto in the near future. I suggested an auto service which helped but didn't completely resolve the issue, On its next 10.000km service again did an auto service & it works fine now. Vehicle has now done 250,000 kms & we just service the auto when a regular service is due. It appears just flushing out the old trans fluid has done the trick - cheap fix.
Great video, Alex! Keep em coming!
Many of us C55 owners with a similar 722.6 transmission have solved the torque converter ‘bump’ by replacing the TCC/PWM solenoid.
I'll give that a try too. I really want to nail it down so I didn't want to replacd multiple parts for that issue. I was the thing tcc solenoid too
Is that 'bump' also noticeable during the 2nd to 1st downshift when coming to a stop? I have a 2005 W164 ML350 with similar issues.
@@michaeloakes7213 have you fixed the downshift bump? my W211 E350 does the same.
@@khalidalmahmode3889: Not yet. I'm just living with the problem at the moment. It doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
First person to show valve body work, thank you Alex!
Alex, after 7 years and 7 W210s this is probably the best 722.6 video I've found on RUclips.
Sorry for doubting you on checking the fluid on the other cdi!
Alex, you're knocking these informational vids out of the park! Congratulations on your expanding subscribership list and funding!
How do you know your car is seriously broken? Even your wife notices it.
here the same, with ,my old w211 63amg in the MCdrive :-) my wife is it normal that the car shakes? hahaha camshaft problems...
Why do you have to add steering fluid every 2 days, don’t worry it’s meant to be like that, that’s until I manage to drop the steering rack! :))
My wife has problems avoiding stationary objects.
Lol, so right!
that was good :D
One of the biggest reasons for "lifetime" fluid is to lower the cars total emissions. Think about how much less fluid waste is calculated into the millions of cars sold adds up. This helps Mercedes (every auto maker) claim their car pollutes less. Similar with the extended oil changes, save a few gallons of oil per car, on millions of cars, equals big savings, big money etc... Thankfully this trend is starting to come back to more reasonable numbers.
Toyota has been pushing lifetime ATF fluid for long time. I have been discouraged by the dealerships and mechanics. But I told them it's my car and I am changing ATF fluid regardless what they said. LifeTime ATF fluid does not come with life time transmission warranty.
I also didn't believe the lifetime claims, but I waited until my '07 Camry reached 100K, then had the dealer change the fluid. The WS fluid is expensive, maybe a ripoff, but I paid the couple hundred $ for peace of mind.
If you have a Toyota V6, read up on LSC-90K.
"Lifetime" oil = car leaseplan life, 7 years max. But you are right service garages raise an eyebrow when you come in talking preventative maintainence.
@@michaelmcfeely6588 but did they do a complete fluid change and without flushing it, and how many quarts or liters were used to do the chsnge? And I don't wait that long as any contaminants from manufacturing etc have already caused some wear plus fluid degradation regardless of claims. 100 K is miles yes? Fluid is fluid but I only go with OEM as it's formulated for a particular OEMs AT transmission. Most ATF has a similar pinkish look new and the odor is the same. To me it smells like the standard ATF FLUID that most mfrs used way back when that being Dexron or Dexron II. I uncorked a lot of Honda ATs for 1st gen everything (civic, accord, prelude) and they had a rebuidable torque converter that you could overhaul on the bench. They went to a welded torque converter on the 80 Civic and more fully Automatc ATs after that. One thing I learned is change the hell out of the AT Fluid. So I'd rather spend 3 or 4 grand on AT fluid changes over the life or ownership of the vehicle than have to fix a resolvable problem by doing frequent ATF changes. So far that's worked well for me and no AT probs at all due to preventative maintenance.
@@mooglemy3813 - very good observations. I cannot overcome my sneaking suspicion that manufacturer's don't give two hoots about the drive-train's real longevity. The ATF changes colour with age and even very low use. It needs to refreshed with new oil.
I want my car to last 20 years, to make it a truly economical purchase. I use it for 7 years and pass it on to a family member and then to a growing up youngster.
Excellent! You have a great way of making some otherwise scary issues seem easily repairable. I am now a little less worried about any transmission codes popping up. Now if only this was a 722.9...different animal but still manageable I think
If you look inside those valve bores ,you will find holes .That is for the fluid to travel from one side to the other.Now you add a piston WITH an O-RING,that is fresh and soft,it's rubber or neoprene.Envision an o-ring that is sitting in a bore that is 1/2 inch or .500" you may have a piston that is .499 or .4992 to allow for expansion.those are the stock pistons.now you add an -o-ring in a grooved piston,say the o-ring has a .062 dia it bulges out past the surface of the piston,the holes in bores are razor sharp ,sometimes they shave off the o-ring.just like a guillotine.lapped spools are better ,but that means you really must keep the fluid clean,yours was way to dirty.INSTALL and inline filter in your trans output cooling line to your radiator and change your fluid more often that ,would solve your problem,MAYBE......GREAT filming on the dissembling of the VB and explaining the kits available.
I have also added an additional magnet to my transmission oil pan to eliminate shavings.
2 yrs ago I started flipping copart cars, now I have 5 Mercedes... I make sure every car is 100% when I sell it... You've taught me so much... Love the videos and loving my '09 cls550 daily... I spend 1-2 hrs studying @university of RUclips everyday often in your class... A big thank you...
Hey , I’ve been doing the same, could we share some info?
This was really interesting. No show, no fake stuff... Nice! You have a new subscriber.
Thanks Thomas! Welcome!
I like your channel. There aren't too many RUclipsrs in car mechanics, etc., who are actually educated/trained properly to show vids of what really is the case.
Thanks!!
Here in europe our busses with auto transmission are tuned to lock the converter in first or in second depending on the situation.Sometimes the converter lockup fails and the busses cant even go above 30mph.They use a very loose converter and the lockup is essential for normal driveability.Btw you make some awesome content,keep it going. ;)
Great comment didn't know that. Thanks for watching
Your buses use the ZF 6sp don't they? I am familiar with that gearbox even as a passenger
@@jetstream454 We have some 6hp592 ecomats, the newer 6ap1200 ecolifes,and quite a bit of voiths which all lock up in first.
@@izdeliye-88 I thought so haha. Funny that the torque converters are super weak without lock-up though!
I had no idea a valve body could be DIY rebuilt on the bench with aftermarket valve kits. You've made my world bigger.
I've been a mechanic for many years and have seen inside many engines and transmissions. I can confirm beyond a doubt that not only lifetime but extended interval fluids are mostly bs. Get your oil changed every 4-5000 miles and your trans fluid changed every 20-30k (but NOT flushed). Also don't forget brake fluid, ps fluid, differentials if you have em and coolant. I think ppl would be amazed at how little the hard parts of their cars fail if properly maintained.
Remember, the car companies want you to buy a new car. As long as their "lifetime fluid" lasts past the average ownership time of the original purchaser they are in the clear.
Alex, I would love made a long version of this video for those of us who haven't done this work before but would like to try it. I think there is a lot of info in the parts that are speeded up that would be helpful when doing the job for the first time. Thanks for all the great content you put out!
The transmission electrical connector housing on the 722.6 should be replaced when it is COLD! (Check wis) if you remove the electrical connector housing when it is hot you will strip out the conductor plate.... replacing the electrical connector also prevents transmission fluid entering the transmission control unit. Most people don't know about this issue. Btw great videos! I too am a former MB dealer tech, I now work for MB vans in South Carolina . The 722.6 has been a better transmission than the 722.9, the dot 9 was never user friendly outside the dealer. Btw you forgot to mention using the dipstick tool for the .6 since the .6 never had an actual dipstick. I own a 1997,1998, and 1999 e300s...the 1997 has been a bit troublesome compared to the 98 and 99. Stay away from 1997 non turbodiesels the parts are more expensive than the 98 and 99
what is the difference in changing the fluid on the new 9 speed transmissions? are they like the 722.9 where you pump it is and then set when the temp is 40c? anything to worry about with the plastic pan? I have been looking for service info on this if you have a ling I would love to have it
dann hienn you have to "replace" the plastic drain plug, I think also it's a different fitting to fill, and the transmission fluid is different...I only did a handful of them until I left the dealership for good.
@@davidlanca5731 do you pump it up with the fluid and then let it drain the excess off at 40c like we do on the 722.9? I left the dealer about 10 years ago as well. god I hated working for AN
I had the 13-pin plug (Guide Bushing) leak on my Nag1 (Dodge Magnum 06), known issue. I took it to the dealership to get the new one installed. The tech said he couldn't remove the bolt holding the GB, it was stripped & spinning. Said I needed a new ECM/ conductor plate. Is it possible he didn't know, it was hot, and he spun the bolt and pressed threaded fastener in the ECM?! Mistakes happen... I'm doing this job here in the video tomorrow, including new ECM & TCC Solenoid.
Great advice. My 1990 Volvo 240 wagon still has the original Aisan-Warner AW-70 3 speed with overdrive transmission and it works perfectly at 605,000 km, or ~380,000 miles. The fluid is flushed every 40,000 km, 25,000 miles, and the filter is changed on the 20,000 km interval in between. The other thing that had kept it working properly is that on her way home from taking delivery when the car was new, Ma stopped at the parts store and picked up the heaviest duty auxiliary transmission cooler B&N made. The cooler installed is rated for 21,000 pounds. The fluid never gets too hot. It is the same with the back axle. The Dana 30 back there has had the fluid replaced every 40,000 kilometers unless Arthur has been in deep water, in which case it is changed immediately. Of course, being a Volvo 240, the first, comprehensive, service was done at 1,500 kilometers and was included in the price of purchase. Engine, transmission, and differential were flushed and refilled. Plugs, rotor, cap, and fuel filter were all renewed, to make sure everything was just so.
Great video. Nice job on the valve body rebuild kit. The automatic transmission is very complex but you did a good job on demostrating how it works internally.
Watched the video, was like, "right on, I can do this too!". Pulled my 722.9 valve body and find one of the aluminum rearward bolts above the valve body is broken off... way up in the bore. Anyone else encounter this as a mechanical failure? I suspect that the transmission had been 'flat rated' at some point in the history! Love the videos, keep making and I'll keep watching!
People should be draining and replacing the fluid. Most of those metal shavings from normal wear and tear kill your transmission. Even if the fluid does last a "lifetime"
Ashish Patel is that the same for manual transmissions too?
No, just follow the manual of the vehicle, manual transmissions have a lot less parts and are more durable...example my 2000 honda accord coupe with a 5 speed manual transmission has over 190,000 miles and I recently changed the transmission fluid...the mechanic said the fluid was in decent condition for going over the fluid change interval which was supposed to be done at 100,000, shifts smoother after I got it changed. Manual transmission use fluid to keep the gears cool and have a layer of lubrication of gear to gear contact and synchros protection, they don't get changed that often.
That’s what the magnet is for. I just had mine checked out at 160,000 klm, never been off, sealed system, just replaced 5 Ltrs of trans fluid. The magnet had a tiny bit of very fine metal on it.
@@reyfuentes4572 Honda went to their own MT fluid some time ago. Prior to the change they use engine oil. However I wouldn wait that long and I'd change it out with Honda MT Fluid at 50 K Miles. You still can get a build up of metal particulate around shift fork shafts. And as you noticed it shifted smoother after a change. Draining the MT fluid and it looks ok isn't a proper evaluation as it is not affected by anything but prob condensation and that should flash of when driving.
@Rusty Highlander if it's got an oil pan like a Chrsler for example. They want you to change the filter.
One other thing not considered by the buying public. A drain plug, a sealing washer, or a plug with a rubberized sealing washer and a threaded oil drain hole in the pan = cost up. So there are the plug and washer, no big deal right? Wrong!. Pan needs a drawing including the drain hole and threads. So add to that a drain plug bolt and or the washer two more drawings. Extra procedures to stamp the pan and thread or spot weld in the drain bolt threads. Maybe that's why dipstics are disappearing along with the Mfr not wanting you to change your fluids?
Alex You are like watching a guy who has put the puzzle together so many times you could do it with your eyes closed. Thanks for sharing this information and giving us confidence.
lifetime means the life line of the transmission....then boom theirs goes the transmission and you need a new car😂. Cause let’s be real no customer wants to spend 5k or more for a transmission when they can just put that money as a down payment for another vehicle
That's not quite right. Mercedes withdrew that recommendation years ago. They now require/ suggest 39k intervals. It's crappy because of that one time claim, Mercedes causes people to still believe that. Technically though, it's true. If you never change your fluid eventually it kills the trans. So I guess it is lifetime fluid:)
Lifetimes means the term period of the manufacturer warranty, and that is with lite use. With severe use (stop and go traffic, hot/cold weather conditions, or long commuting, basically normal driving) then fluid change intervals are stated by the manufacturer.
Mercedes benz currently requires transmission service at 40k or 4 years in the service booklet. I don't know anything about the lifetime meaning under warranty. Since their warranties are 5 years 100k, that flies in the face of the now suggested 40k/4 year requirement/recommendation.
The transmission lasts the lifetime of the fluid. Fixed it for you ;)
@@vandiesel5447 exactly!
One thing I don't miss about my w211 was the "adaptive" programming. If I was stuck in traffic for a while, when the traffic was gone, the trans was a total dog. Nice, however, to hear a professional busting industry myths about "lifetime" fluids. Very informative, as always, Alex!
My transmission was shifting hard, and so I disconnected one of the rubber hoses from the trans fluid line to the radiator, and ran that into a drain pan, started it up, and watched it dump the fluid into the pan, then I added about the same amount that was going into the pan to keep it all at about the same level. When the fluid turned from mud to clean, I turned the motor off. (Used Neutral). Then topped it off. Now it shifts very smoothly again, so I think the old dirty fluid was a bit thick.
Good job. But how many quarts or liters did you change out that way? If it's a V6 engine with an AT it may have between 9 and 12 quarts or liters or so in the circuit Nd that includes the torque converter. Also if you do it again get the AT up to op temp and you'll get a better change out.
Greetings from Germany! I love your Content! Just bought a W211 220CDI (150 HP) in pretty good condition, it runs like a new car. The previos owner maintained it very well. I will change ATF fluid, differantial fluid and the steering fluid, to keep the car in that condition.
It needs a bit of paintwork, and it will drive an look like new.
The best car is made in Germany, but the best Mercedes Benz maintance content, is coming directly out of your garage.
Keep going!
Thanks so much! Means a lot to me
Oh my god the Sonnax Overlap Sleeve Kit might save my transmission 🙏🙏🙏 Thank you for showing all of this.
Hey Alex, i know this is an old video, but wanted to thank you for this awesome content. I just "restored" my valvebody in c270 and swapped blue top solenoids and it shifts like never before. Thank mate
IMHO i have found that conductor plates do not 'wear out'. Olf fluid with bits of metal is the cause of almost every 722.6 cond plate issues.. You can easily see where the debris shorts out the speed senors circuit..Cleaning them has fized every one ..All nybody has to do is change the ATF at least once before 100K miles and it will be enough to double the life no matter what brand of car it is (47yrs exp on MB)
I have a problem with my 722.6 in my E55, after driving for 5mins the car goes in neutral ( even if it still in D, I lose all power like if it was in neutral ). P2561, P2560, P2500, "The gear is implausible or the transmission is slipping (1 & 2 gear). Any ideas? Car is winter stored until this summer but I'd like to hear your input. Transmission still feels strong until the problem happens...
General Issam Zahreddine thanks for your help, will order a new one !!
do you know anything about servicing the new 9 speed trans?
@@GodfatherBenz someone on here described an exactly similar problem with a santa fe, turns out the transmission fluid pathway in the radiator was clogged and wasn't letting any fluid circulate through after a few minutes, installing an external transmission cooler fixed it for him, maybe you should check that
I own the CLS 320 CDI here in the UK my Mercedes Specialist recommends changing the gearbox oil every 35/40 k miles so very good advice 👍👍👍
brilliant video, hopefully you will make same video with 722.9 transmission
Excellent ! Very helpful.
I've got a 2016 E350 Coupe (C207) with the 9 G-Tronic - I've done 19,000 miles.
The dealership are telling me that the fluid change is at 60,000 miles and they want $650 to do the job because it's also got to be hooked up to the computer after filling...
Many thanks.......all the way from London !
Yet another great video Alex! My 03 c32 also has the 722.6. I was having a slipping issue, only when cold. As you advised, I replaced the conductor plate, filter, fluid and install the Sonnax sleeve kit. The issue is gone and the car has never shifted better. Thanks again!
That's awesome! Thanks so much for the update. Love hearing stuff like this.
First of all your content is always very helpful so keep up the good work!
I currently own a 2006 c220 150hp with 722.699 5-speed automatic gearbox.
This video in particular got me hyped a lot, mainly because I have the same problem and actually I have been dealing with it for almost four months. At the beginning except for the failing lockup there was a very strong vibration all over the body of the car coming as if from the rear end. I was lead to believe that this is from a failing torque converter. A shop which diagnosed my problem recycled the torque converter. A day later after I got the "fixed" car everything was pretty much the same - still vibrating and not able to lock up (not only between 1st and 2nd gear but also 3rd to 4th on low rpms). Eventually the shop found out that the radiator had mixed antifreeze into the transmission oil and the diagnosis was - quouting - "Go find yourself a new transmission and torque converter". A pretty expensive operation considering the fact that I had already spent a fortune on recycling the old torque converter and changing the transmission oil and filter. At the end I managed to find a pretty good quality second hand transmission. The radiator was also changed and again the oil was changed. However, when the car has been sitting for some time (more than 8 hours) and is still cold (or it is quite cold outside) there is a slight lockup failure the first couple of times when changing gear. I was really worried and pissed and I contacted a different shop for a second opinion and Star diagnosis. After a thorough 3h diagnosis with both static and live data (via referent values) the shop stated that the torque converter as well as the transmission and the solenoids are completely fine. Their theory is that since the oil has not been changed via machine the system has not been cleaned well enough and there could be some sort of jelly or debris inside the valve body or the transmission itself. My question is do you think this could be the problem (only mechanical) since the issue is present only when the transmission fluid is cold and the star diagnosis does not find any issues? Could it be that this torque converter is also failing?
Ahh a heart but didn't answer the question ?
Hopefully will answer later.
That valve body looks like something I'd use a scalpel on vs an impact lol. Crazy how over engineered some of these parts are! Also glad to see you're surviving those low temps, hopefully we get lucky this year and have an early spring in Chicago. Cheers!
I loved the "I am going the speed limit." Made me chuckle.
Changed my transmission fluid on my ML after 45,000. It was a totally different car after the change. Also did it on my w212 350 cdi around the same milage. Again, I felt some improvement. Now I own a CLS 350 cdi. It's done 32,000 miles i will probably change around the same milage . The car will be 6 years old by then. Best wishes from the UK.
ALEX---ABSOLUTELY SUPERB!!!!!!! BEAUTIFULLY DONE!!!! On your trans, the 722.6. From what I have read, it will do up to 750 HP without any issues, very robust unit already. You did not mention the shifting of the CDI's compared to your AMG with the same transmission, BUT with the Blue Top Solenoids. The AMG/Blue Tops will give you robust up and down shifts throughout the pattern. The AMG/Blue Tops are available separately on Amazon, not cheap though..
I have the same issue! When the transmission fluid is cold it the transmission keeps jerking between ~1400 - 2000 rpm, until it warms up. Some of it went away after a transmission flush, but not all. I'm planning on changing the conductor plate, solenoids, sonnax kits and cleaning the valve body. Hopefully that will fix it, because it's really bad right now when cold.
Maybe with yours it's a tcc lockup solenoid that's bad(lets pressure through)? idk.
Great video btw!
bro i changed all what he changes in video in my w211 but same problem when its cold.I think its tourqe converter that couse this problem
@@XxXErIjOnXxX interesting, I bought an 05 cdi last summer and before this build I couldn't find anywhere online with information on the trans
it is lock-up solenoid.I had the same problem.
I have did all of this last week and now it shifts perfect again!
@@asaddddddddd changing the conductor plate, all solenoids ?, 2 sonnax kits ? and cleaning the valve body ?
I just replaced the TCC solenoid on my 04 E55. 131k. Didn't even reset trans adaptations and this problem is 90-95% gone. A lot easier than the Sonnax valve sleeve that you installed, too.
Yeah lifetime transmission fluid is some BS.
Lifetime.of the Warranty more like.
Seems to be getting phased out in Europe slowly but surely.
That's exactly it... a manufacturer judges the lifetime of a car and associated parts as the length of its warranty.
I wanted BMW to change my ATF at the 40k mile service while under service plan, which is the specified interval for ZF 8-speed boxes... They bluntly refused, stating that it wasn't a recognized interval. But after 60k miles, once out of service plan, they were all too happy to perform the service, provided I paid for it of course.
@@Gr0t0tter BMW scam as always...
Max is 100,000 mile or 10 years.
@@Gr0t0tter BMW make me angry
@@Gr0t0tter BMWs don't even have a dipstick the fact you would buy one of their cars is idiotic. BMW deserve to be bankrupt for their crimes against cars in the last decade.
Easily your best video yet Alex, I was going to do this on the ZF6HP26Z on my old BMW but couldn't get the car level on jacks and stands. All fluids should be changed by 40-50k miles in my opinion, engine oil every 10k miles for a normal engine or I halve that if the engine is modified such as a remap/aggressive tune. We don't go crazy for regular oil changes in the UK like guys in the US do, but cars are much more disposable over here. Love the CDi videos and am considering an E/S/CLS of this vintage when my current lease is up.
Thanks brother.
Valve bodies are so much fun!
Good advice. At 5 years old and 40000 miles I had my filter and trans fluid changed on my C320 cdi with om642 & 7g tronic. 6 years later and I'm getting it done again this year.
Totally too many ads's now on your video's. Great information....
Use Brave browser for RUclips, ZERO COMMERCIALS.
I bought a used 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T automatic in 2007 that came with supposed lifetime transmission fluid. After experiencing shift problems shortly after buying the car, my mechanic was able to keep the transmission operating properly for another 11 years and 120,000 kms, just by flushing and changing the fluid a few times over that span.
Now I have a 2003 Audi Allroad 2.7T with the 5 speed ZF automatic. This transmission is notorious for the torque converter clutch failing to lock-up due to a problematic seal. I had transmission torque converter DTC's early on but again had my mechanic flush and change the fluid. So far so good after one year and 15,000kms - knock on wood!
Can’t wait for this diesel to hit the drag strip!
Me too!!
picked up a chevy truck with a 4L60E that wasn't shifting. Opened it up & replaced the shift solenoids and threw a fluid & filter at it, and it worked fine after. Also had a mid 90's dodge caravan, and the roll pin popped out of the carrier and ripped a hole in the side of the case, on a saturday night. Pulled it out, welded the hole up, and swapped the carrier in from another transmission we had junked (clutches went bad in it), and it worked like a champ for another 40,000mi until the body was too rusted out to keep messing with :)
Automatic transmissions have so many moving parts, I would be terrified to take these things apart at home!
buy a used one from scrap yard, and start practising .
The real pain with transmissions has JUST begun. With 9 speeds in econo cars the used car market is going to get real ugly in 5-10 years. By then people wont know what a manual trans is so there will be no reference point of reliability to compare to!
WILLIS CURRY yup. That’s why I bought a manual. Never drove one before and took it for a test drive and learned on the spot. I love it now!
@@williscurry6557 I'll take a clutch and band trans any day over a CVT. Right now the CVTs take the crown for least reliable.
@@eatont9999 How so? Asia has CVT based buses that run over 10 years. You read too many RUclips comments lol
My C32 AMG has the “1500 rpm jerk” drives me crazy, but I’ve learned to live with it. My E430 is perfectly smooth. I might try these kits in the spring when I replace my rusted trans pan.
Quite in depth! Gracias amigo!
Hey thanks and I totally agree that lifetime transmission is BS. My 2006 Audi S4 V8 is now on 220k kms and I have replaced the transmission fluid recently so she FLIES. Thanks for your great information, much appreciated. Simon
Awesome video. Thank you! We Lexus owners also have to deal with the lifetime transmission fluid BS. My dealership does nothing with the transmission except replacing it at $3000 plus labor 😧. Can you make a video on how you replace the transmission fluid step by step? Thanks again!
3K is cheap. Audi wants 14K for a transmission in the B8 S4's.
I make my service guy change transmission fluid every second year or so (every 20-30kkm). It's does cost, but not as much as a new transmission :P
I enjoy watching your videos. Keep them rolling in. I’m working on getting my dream car 550.AMG.
Loved the synthesizer 80’s music at the 13:37 mark....👌🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Me too!
Listen to the Gunship station on Pandora. It's all new wave retro wave music. It's a flashback to the 80s but all new synthwave!
the_aircraft_mechanic will do...👍🏻Thank You Sir ! 👌🏻
@@HeROsiNhEaVeN best driving music imo. should check out ThePrimeCronus, has a ton of 80's synth ruclips.net/video/SF58Lsvqg5E/видео.html
@@lIIl_lIl_lIIl Thx for the share. This channel has ton of retro wave too. Akira Kaneda theme reworked one of the best : ruclips.net/video/ZIQAq754Sr8/видео.html
Hey @LegitStreetCars i own an E270 W211 E-Class. And I gotta tell you, the 5 speed automatic transmission is a tank! They are strongly built and are less defective than 7G auto transmission. However, you shall ONLY use genuine original Mercedes-Benz oil, in this case MBZ 236.14. And reguluarly change it after 50,000km = 31,000 miles. My other E270 has over 900,000km = 559,234 miles!!! I use genuine MB oil for the engine - 229.5, and i change it after 10,000km = 6,213 miles. Transmission fluid after 50,000km = 31,068 miles. Not even a single, single problem and im at 940,000km = 584,088 with the original engine. All i got to say is, that these CDI's are built to overlast you. Hope you get everything fixed! :) Greetings from ALBANIA, the biggest importer of Mercedes-Benz ever. Kings of the road as we say here...
I'm going the speed limit,LOL!!
Alex, this is one of your best videos yet.
Allways reset the tcu adaptations after changing the lock up valve ! This might solve the problem .
It's all ball bearings nowa days........
He installed a new tuned TCU. So there was nothing to clear.
Is it possible to do it without scan tool by just flooring the gaspedal from standstill until the car shifts into 2 or 3 gear? What happens if its not reset?
Thank you for addressing this.
This is unfortunately designed into the vehicle to limit the lifespan of the major components.
For all electronic transmissions the valve bodys need to be upgraded with improved parts. The wiring /electrics in the sump must be replaced (this applies to all) and if not performed soon enough a rebuild for the transmission.
Replace the fluid based on the usage. Taxi vs antique for example.
Even if you change the fluid religiously the planned obsolescence designed in transmission will cause the transmission to fail.
But after a proper rebuild and regular maintenance any transmission will last indefinitely.
I have a 79 bronco on its second c6.
The first went about 400k miles and stopped shifting to third. I drove it for 6 months like that. Daily, powerglide style. Then it started working again. So I replaced it with a rebuilt c6 from jack Young for $325, couldn't pass it up. (with converter)
It shifts like it's built, with all of the torque the built 400 has, it's scary to hit second wide open on the street. It's also a mud truck /daily with 35" swamper sx bias tires.
Great video, thank you for this.
P. S. The sonnax kits fix the shortcomings of the original parts. But they assume this kit will be used on a somewhat worn transmission so they make changes to take up for the wear and sometimes it causes problems when used with a proper rebuild.
I dealt with my o1p for the exact problem and spent quality time with the rebuilders learning the elusive tricks.
You inspired me to get a Mercedes diesel again, and I appreciate the heads up on the direct injection engine.
Having been a heavy equipment and truck mechanic since the 80s, working on many Mercedes engines, driving a couple of 123s and a 116 diesel. I was shocked to see the poor design of the injector seals.
Besides regular maintenance the most common thing to do was to time the injection pump to make up for wear. I personally have driven close to a million miles with no break downs or big ticket items.
The bigger engines run even longer.
Eyeballing an 82 300td. Ahhh, diesel wagon.
👍🏼
Same with BMW auto gear fluid. "Lifetime" my ass. I change mine & the filters inside the transmission every 60K. Works perfectly afterwards, esp. with a shop that has the pump machine and flushes the gearbox several times. Cleans out metallic particles from the magnets etc. The small bolts are one time use too so they get changed also.
Don't forget some cars don't have Transmissions dipstick or check oil hole, or even a drain plug, just a sealed unit.
Yeah but it has lifetime fluid so why would you need any of that...
I'm being sarcastic.
U said change ur fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. What if we haven’t changed it in 100k or 150k miles? Should we still change it or leave it alone forever??
I heard partial changes are a good idea. You drain half at a time the first few times and slowly you end up with new transmission fluid
this myth that if you've gone too far between fluid changes then you should not change your fluid DOES NOT apply to mercedes automatic transmissions. The most common failure on MB transmissions is not that the clutches wear out, but rather gummed up valve bodies and solenoids from debris in them. If your tranny is acting up, change your fluid and clean your solenoids /valve body and your back to like new...
My 2001 E-Class started having tranny issues at 190k miles, probably original fluid. I did a complete flush and cleaned out the metal debris from the solenoids and after I put it all together, it drove like nothing had ever happened. Most mechanics would tall you that it's too late and not not change the fluid, but when it comes to MB's, that is not the case at all.
I had an old Santa Fe with 230k on the clock. The transmission started to shift into gear slow and shift late and I knew the previous owner hadn't changed the fluid in many years. The fluid itself was basically black and smelled very much burnt. I was pretty nervous about changing the fluid after seeing many people on the internet claim that changing the fluid at this point would likely make the problem worse. I used half a bottle of Lucas stop-slip with the old fluid, drove for a couple days, then changed the fluid. I added the other half of the stop-slip with the new fluid. After a couple days the transmission was shifting normally and going into gear faster. A year later and everything is still fine. I'm not at all certain that the stop-slip had anything to do with my success with this, but I am sure that changing the fluid prolonged the transmission's life and made it drive normally again.
Unfortunately the engine recently stopped sending oil to the top-end of the engine, and the old Santa Fe is likely soon to meet the crusher.
I changed the fluid in my daughter's car after 110K miles. She drives a 2006 Saturn VUE. The fluid still looked decent and the car shifts very smooth afterwards
As long as you use the correct fluid and filter, it won't hurt. The only time people run into issues is when the old fluid is masking an internal issue.
Very good video and i agree with you 100% ,the lifetime fluid is a fairy tale from the manufacturers to sell more transmissions or cars . It is even more important in hot climate and when you pull a trailer ! Which lifetime is it: the lifetime of the car , the owner , the transmission? Pls , Pls use only the recommended oil from the manufacturer , nothing else and don't trust any salesman they don't know it!
You didn't make a "oil change" you replaced around 50% of the old oil , because there is still the old oil in the turbine!! So if you don't have a proper automatic transmission oil replacement machine ( to replace it while the engine is running like the specialised dealers have) , you have to change the fluid at least 2-3 times to get all the old fluid out. The old mercedes automatic transmissions from the eighties have a screw in the turbine to drain the oil, which makes it easier.
"have a screw in the turbine to drain the oil"
I've seen the mechanic access this screw, but now I can't find it nor rotate the torque converter, can you give me a clearer idea of its location or a real photograph ?
Yeah, no such thing as "life time anything fluid"... even if Mercedes or BMW tell you this.
Audi says the same thing. In my opinion, nothing mechanical is service free. It will fail at some point without maintenance.
My 2003 VW Golf never had its transmission fluid changed in 257000 miles and I sold it shifting perfectly fine at that mileage lifetime transmission fluid is only a myth in America as far as I know. Never had a problem relating to transmission fluid.
I have a Volvo V60 diesel 2012 model with a 6 speed automatic gearbox. I recently changed transmission fluid on it (Flushed it), and only that improved shift quality significantly. The car has done 155 k km's (almost 100 k miles).
The gearbox on my car does not engage the lockup before the gearbox has gained some temperature. I can drive up to 4 - 5 km's before it engages. I think this is by design to avoid harsh lockups while the transmission is cold. It also helps the gearbox gain temperature quicker, in my opinion.
I believe my CDI had the same shifting issue as yours and it went away once I replaced the TCC control solenoid. I also installed the Sonex shift overlap kit and it made a difference.
upload more of c55
He won't he sold it 😪
Alex - You’ve got a great site but listening to a “Super ASE Mercedes Master Mechanic “ encourage me, thumbs Endelman” to do what you’re doing, .......... sorry my friend, it’s just great to see you work, ‘cause I always learn lots. Thanks so much; sure wished you lived in Phoenix. Dave in Phoenix Arizona USA
Kent form mercedessorce is like, oh no my followers come back come back:'( :p Love you channel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Kent just wants to sell his special tools anymore..which I understand he is in business but his videos used to actually be informative. Now there just hey buy my special grease applicator..guess he needs more money to fund the new house
Been thinking about getting LSC merch for a while. After learning so much, I'll be proud to! Keep it up Alex!!
Did you replace the torque converter clutch solenoid? Had the same problem on my C55 and changing the solenoid completely fixed it!
My E55 is doing this too, going to be doing a transmission service and TCC solenoid. Wondering if it's worth doing the "shift kit" and the sleeves.
best video i've ever seen on this type of Mercedes gearbox
im going the speed limit... im dead lol
Yeah. He needs to do a better cover up I can tell how slow he was going LOL
I dont know if you cant adjust the bands in a Merc but just changing the fluid and filter will help alot! Great video!
I change the transmission fluid (gasket and filter too) every 60k. I'm not buying that "Lifetime" excuse
125k miles on my ML350 and flushing the fluid in my 7G tranny has been the single best thing that I’ve ever done to improve my car’s driving feel!!!!! Night and day difference in smoothness of initial gear selection, coasting, overtaking and braking…always smooth as flowing water now!!
lol "speed limit"
The Doctor - this distracted me from what he was saying and I ended up having to watch it three times twice with the video and once without! Haha!! This was my favorite part!
he placed that so as not to confess to a violation by filming himself speeding
Got up to about 90-95 from the quick glimpse of the needle! 😁
This video hits me right in the feels ...
My Audi A6 3.0TDI (Late 06-early 07) probably needs its transmission fluid changed ... 271 000km without a change I suspect. Audi claims the transmission never needs to have its fluids changed or flushed, therefore they dont take this job upon them. It is also stupid expensive for transmission oil changes where I live. Sadly I don't have the tools or the knowledge to take on that kind of a job, neither do I have a garage and staying out in -20 would be a nightmare.
I change my Transmission fluid every time I change my Transmission 🤔.
is it a dodge?
Looks like your confused with oil change
My e280 cdi won't lock up the first few km when it's cold outside. I have thought it was normal, to build up heat in the transmission, but now I'm not so sure. Great video, and I totally agree with the lifetime transmission fluid BS. Transmission fluid is every 60.000Km, at least for taxies, normal drivers can probably stretch it to 80.000Km.
Lifetime fluids is not a scam, it last the life of the vehicle, as in "Lifetime" if the vehicle lasts one year then that's the lifetime🤣🤣
I restored a 91 Volvo 740 transmission with 300k miles in full failure by doing a "slo-change" (2 quarts out of the pan every couple of months) followed by a full flush with new fluid. It took a year but it improved slowly with each change and now it shifts like new, was never down and all I spent money on was fluid.
👀
Depends on the transmission. Anything with a torque converter WILL need its fluid changed at some point.
A car like mine, 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, uses a very simple planetary CVT, which has no belt, no torque converter, and no clutches at all. It truly can be a lifetime fluid, though I will change it at 200,000 miles (currently at 178,000).
A manual could theoretically have "lifetime" fluid too, but I would see that as a 150,000 mile interval due to syncros and gears going in and out of mesh.
This is way too complicated for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. The problem is not taking things apart, it's putting things back together. I have renewed respect for my mechanic now. Thanks for the video.
I have a 2005 E320 CDI which had a super hard shift from 1st to 2nd when starting out cold in the morning. After driving for 1 block or so the hard shift would go away completely. I did a full transmission flush (used 14 liters of fluid) and made sure the transmission was full afterwards because it was 1 liter down when I initially checked it. After doing this the car shifts so much smoother and the hard cold shift went away completely. You need to do a full transmission flush on your cars, not just changing the fluid in the pan which holds only 4 liters.