I noticed and I could be wrong but was that the existing duct work? With the newer systems and the way the older ductwork might be sized.....some of your humidity issues could ‘ might be related to that. Double Check your dew point and DW insulation values and you might be able to eliminate some of the humidity issue. Like your area, here in cola SC we have no lack of humidity in the summer and with the rain we’ve been having you can add to that so it’s been a battle! As always....Great video and thank you for what you do!
Curtis how you doing buddy? I got to say I've been watching your hacker Nation playlist that is a hoot. Your reactions to what you see or priceless. Love your videos keep up the good work
Curtis the updated manual pdfs have the descriptions to adjust the air handler blower speed it's behind I think the metal box. As for the dip switches I would leave it alone and leave it in 3 ton mode which is the default setting for the condenser and air handler. And the excess moisture could be from the bottom of the house or mini. Basement area not bieng sealed properly. And Curtis that breaker box looks awful and should be replaced and maybe redo ductwork. Other wize great video. We just need more gree flex videos from you it's been awhile.
Quick audio tip. Use a high pass filter to reduce the bass on your audio track. There's a lot of low frequency energy while you're talking in the van. Awesome videos, keep it up.
I’ve had that issue many times with those breakers that are exposed. They sweat a ton. I put insulated tape all around them and often just go ahead and put it over the top as well. Without insulation you’ll be back in another 3 years
do you have a way to lock out the main for safety? I know this will sound foolish to people but I was just thinking about somebody seeing the main to the AC pulled and thinking "Oh that's the issue!" and they will reset it sending power back to where you are working. I guess it's something left over from my OSHA training back when I worked in the mill. I had an incident where I didn't lock out a main once and was doing some work on a motor, some idiot thinking he had "found the issue" hit the power and just lucky I had my hand off the motor I had reconnected to a chain and sprocket that started up or I'd been missing a hand today! Needless to say afterwards I made damn sure to lock out the main as well as the power to any electrical motor I was working on.
need to check ur total system Amp draw through that breaker. too much moisture in the blower cabinet means an airflow or drainage problem from the pan. did u check the humidity level in the house?
That Intermatic surge protector goes on every new install we do. For personal safety, all our techs are trained to never sit while testing a live 240 volt or 480 volt circuit. Kneel or squat only. If you come in contact while sitting, you may not be able to break contact. Kneeling or squatting, you will fall away and potentially save your life.
We were trained the opposite in military tech schools. If you lose your balance while kneeling or squatting and go forward, you will instinctively put your hands in front of you and fry yourself. Sitting makes that impossible. Which is best philosophy, don't know. But I made it thru my career, military/industrial/postal, without ever getting bitten. p.s., a little after 2008, USPS made the stupid decision to replace the real ET test with an aptitude test. Result was unqualified people getting hired as ETs. One of them in another city got fried about a year after he got the job. Word was he squatted in front of power panel of a letter sorting machine, lost balance, went into panel, that was the end for him. USPS got hit with a massive fine, and entered a settlement with OSHA that required us to wear massive amounts of protective equipment anytime we worked around voltage, even low power DC. For the hands, thick high voltage gloves, and work gloves to wear over the top of them to protect them from damage! Fred Flintstone hard hat, full face mask, dark safety glasses, full body suit. And ear plugs. Can you imagine trying to troubleshoot/take test points wearing all that garbage?!? So much crappola that they issued us big carry bags to keep it in. I promptly stuffed that bag in one of my lockers and left it there. Turned it in unused when I retired in 2019. Well I did have to don it all once a year for my supervisor so he could check off that I had it all and it was in good condition. But other than that, unused.
@@angelr8892 I taught high voltage safety for four years. What you are speaking of applies to switchgear, not a condensing unit in someone’s yard. You could fall into a switchgear cabinet and get electrocuted. In my 41 years in the business, I never heard of a tech falling into a condenser control box and dying. A burned hand or a shock, but there are no live front components other the terminals on the contactor. You would extremely unfortunate if you died.
@@bills6946 I never had any training on switchgear, never worked on it. 50 years working on equipment with lots of live components, never bitten, not even close. And I'd rather skip the possibility of burn or shock, and really rather not leave it to fortune whether or not I get killed. Besides, I'd rather be sitting comfortably while working vs squatting or kneeling, I think better when I'm comfortable. I kept a thick foam pad in my toolbox that made it even more comfy.
I live near Tampa Florida. I bought my house over 22 years ago. I called a heating/cooling company to come service my heating/cooling unit. They looked at the unit and said to call them when I have a problem. I have had zero problems in the last 22 years...so I have not called. Can you estimate the years of service for someone living near Tampa, Fl. Blue Sky's.
And that's exactly the reason why a lot of people say we shouldn't be using the an electric drill like that for undoing the screws cuz they get stripped here's an idea instead of using the actual drill they make a hand screwdriver that's battery operated I'm surprised you don't have one instead of using the actual drill
There is exactly ZERO ZIP ZILCH not one chance that the screw is going to strip taking it out. I'm not saying your wrong about those impact will strip the screw. It's going to strip right tighty not loosy lefty
I like Gree equipment. First one I installed was a 18k Gree mini split back in 2016 on the second story of a home. That unit is still working great. 16 seer if I remember correctly. It heated great down below 10*f, and felt like it did 2 ton cooling on a 100* day 😂
@@gabrielstern4992 really?? Thank you for pointing that out! The air handler in the crawl space under the house made me think it was a mini split. (Sarcasm)
I was just thinking about your install at your home the other day, how is that going for you? It’s crazy that you just posted a video about this particular brand when I was thinking about your install just recently.
Tech tip for ya Curtis. When hanging your units. Run your all-thread wider than the unit, then install unistrut perpendicular like you did, but then bolt 2 longer pieces of unistrut parallel with the unit. This keeps the all-thread out of the way, plus will keep the cabinet from racking and going out of level. I've been doing them like this for years and it is a much better way. Good fix!!!
It’s so frustrating that an air handler is located in a damp crawl space, in the attic or on a roof…What ever happened to having a place in the house. I feel awful seeing you crawl through dirt and 120 degree heat just to service.
@johnshield7157 Usually the HVAC system is the last thing that builders think about. It's all about kitchens and bathrooms to maximize profit. Sad, but true.
Off subject, I was living on the bottom floor of an apartment. The sound of that kid in the video brings memories, would do that all hours of the night and day.
Why did you say you don't install heat strips,,, It gets cold where you are, doesn't it. When the heat pump goes into the defrost mode, the heat strip is needed.... Good videos thanks man
More cooling is not always better oversized hvac equipment will cause the units to short cycle and not dehumidify the space properly and is harder on the equipment. Also ductwork is more then likely not sized properly for 3tons of air flow.
My friend had the 4 ton installed after u did it on your old house. He loves it. This season however, occasionally it will ice up and even blower stop working. Everytime i go, it’s working. Just once in a while it’s acting up. Any suggestions
@@DevinHVACInc This could be an issue with the inside expansion valve, or the system may not have the correct charge, or the system cannot properly detect temperatures of the refrigerant coming back to the unit to properly gauge the compressor capacity (it's running too fast). You need to have them tell you where the ice forms. Is it near the liquid line, or does it form first on the return gas line to the outdoor unit.
That’s waaaaaaay too much static pressure for a Gree flex. I am in the process of installing my own right now. And the manual calls for .4” max and design is .2”. Also not sure what your goal with adjusting the fan speed was. You seemed concerned with the humidity, which would normally call for reducing fan speed for better dehumidification. But it sounded as if you were considering increasing the fan speed. Confused?!
@@mikecockerman2200 Mr. cool central is a gree flex. senville is all midea. but was wondering about board costs, if it is like $1k at cost it's ridiculous and just like north american makes that gouge on parts on their inverter stuff
@@mikecockerman2200no the Mr cool universal is indeed a rebadged gree flex. the Mr cool mini splits some are gree some are midea so it gets tricky. I can even prove the mr cool universal is a rebadged gree flex because of you pull the sleeve jacket off of the compressor it says gree on it and the colors and set up is exactly the same the diference is Mr cool tries to sell it as diy unit and push no vac linesets. When these should be installed the correct traditional way. Period.
You guys are also forgetting the trane resolute but that's Canada only which is also a, rebranded gree flex. And personally the trane version is probably better and if trane brought that to the US it would have less issues VS their own micoinverter proprietary systems.
12:53 I’m so sick and tired of videos instead of manuals/text. I don’t want a video that I have to spend an hour and a half to POTENTIALLY get the answer that I could have gotten in a MINUTE by searching for the text… 😤
I can't believe that the unit is running a/c and heat from the same breaker when there is a provision for two. Why wouldn't you split the heat strips and a/c ? I mean that just seems like an overload waiting to happen
I noticed and I could be wrong but was that the existing duct work? With the newer systems and the way the older ductwork might be sized.....some of your humidity issues could ‘ might be related to that. Double Check your dew point and DW insulation values and you might be able to eliminate some of the humidity issue. Like your area, here in cola SC we have no lack of humidity in the summer and with the rain we’ve been having you can add to that so it’s been a battle! As always....Great video and thank you for what you do!
Curtis how you doing buddy? I got to say I've been watching your hacker Nation playlist that is a hoot. Your reactions to what you see or priceless. Love your videos keep up the good work
Curtis the updated manual pdfs have the descriptions to adjust the air handler blower speed it's behind I think the metal box. As for the dip switches I would leave it alone and leave it in 3 ton mode which is the default setting for the condenser and air handler.
And the excess moisture could be from the bottom of the house or mini. Basement area not bieng sealed properly.
And Curtis that breaker box looks awful and should be replaced and maybe redo ductwork.
Other wize great video. We just need more gree flex videos from you it's been awhile.
I love understanding more and more of what you're doing as I go through school.
Man, that unit looked like brand new inside. Looks like someone actually changes their filters.
Quick audio tip. Use a high pass filter to reduce the bass on your audio track. There's a lot of low frequency energy while you're talking in the van. Awesome videos, keep it up.
I’ve had that issue many times with those breakers that are exposed. They sweat a ton. I put insulated tape all around them and often just go ahead and put it over the top as well. Without insulation you’ll be back in another 3 years
Wow, the blower motor is really quite accessible.
ice video Curtis, that was a clean Gree for its age 👍 Au
Great video like always, my friend. Keep them coming. Stay safe out there and hydrated.🫡
do you have a way to lock out the main for safety? I know this will sound foolish to people but I was just thinking about somebody seeing the main to the AC pulled and thinking "Oh that's the issue!" and they will reset it sending power back to where you are working. I guess it's something left over from my OSHA training back when I worked in the mill. I had an incident where I didn't lock out a main once and was doing some work on a motor, some idiot thinking he had "found the issue" hit the power and just lucky I had my hand off the motor I had reconnected to a chain and sprocket that started up or I'd been missing a hand today! Needless to say afterwards I made damn sure to lock out the main as well as the power to any electrical motor I was working on.
The disconnect was 5 feet behind him. Only way somebody could have energized power was crawling directly behind him to hammer in the pull out
Anytime I disconnect line voltage, I will temporarily wire nut line and ground together. It has saved me multiple times.
need to check ur total system Amp draw through that breaker.
too much moisture in the blower cabinet means an airflow or drainage problem from the pan.
did u check the humidity level in the house?
Great job,Curtis!
Thanks!
I have had problems with those pull out disconnects many times. Put some dielectric grease on them and they will slip right in.
I like the tool to get to that screw that was buried under the panel….
I didn’t know the dollar stores sold disconnects, lol.
Nice work Curtis.
Thanks!
did u know if u coat service disconnects with contact grease, it makes things a lot easier
That Intermatic surge protector goes on every new install we do. For personal safety, all our techs are trained to never sit while testing a live 240 volt or 480 volt circuit. Kneel or squat only. If you come in contact while sitting, you may not be able to break contact. Kneeling or squatting, you will fall away and potentially save your life.
We were trained the opposite in military tech schools. If you lose your balance while kneeling or squatting and go forward, you will instinctively put your hands in front of you and fry yourself. Sitting makes that impossible. Which is best philosophy, don't know. But I made it thru my career, military/industrial/postal, without ever getting bitten.
p.s., a little after 2008, USPS made the stupid decision to replace the real ET test with an aptitude test. Result was unqualified people getting hired as ETs. One of them in another city got fried about a year after he got the job. Word was he squatted in front of power panel of a letter sorting machine, lost balance, went into panel, that was the end for him.
USPS got hit with a massive fine, and entered a settlement with OSHA that required us to wear massive amounts of protective equipment anytime we worked around voltage, even low power DC. For the hands, thick high voltage gloves, and work gloves to wear over the top of them to protect them from damage! Fred Flintstone hard hat, full face mask, dark safety glasses, full body suit. And ear plugs. Can you imagine trying to troubleshoot/take test points wearing all that garbage?!?
So much crappola that they issued us big carry bags to keep it in. I promptly stuffed that bag in one of my lockers and left it there. Turned it in unused when I retired in 2019. Well I did have to don it all once a year for my supervisor so he could check off that I had it all and it was in good condition. But other than that, unused.
@@angelr8892lmao u got any more stories?
Which one are we following now you or him, lol
@@angelr8892 I taught high voltage safety for four years. What you are speaking of applies to switchgear, not a condensing unit in someone’s yard. You could fall into a switchgear cabinet and get electrocuted. In my 41 years in the business, I never heard of a tech falling into a condenser control box and dying. A burned hand or a shock, but there are no live front components other the terminals on the contactor. You would extremely unfortunate if you died.
@@bills6946
I never had any training on switchgear, never worked on it. 50 years working on equipment with lots of live components, never bitten, not even close. And I'd rather skip the possibility of burn or shock, and really rather not leave it to fortune whether or not I get killed. Besides, I'd rather be sitting comfortably while working vs squatting or kneeling, I think better when I'm comfortable. I kept a thick foam pad in my toolbox that made it even more comfy.
I live near Tampa Florida. I bought my house over 22 years ago. I called a heating/cooling company to come service my heating/cooling unit. They looked at the unit and said to call them when I have a problem. I have had zero problems in the last 22 years...so I have not called. Can you estimate the years of service for someone living near Tampa, Fl. Blue Sky's.
Some Rheems have the same problems with humidity getting to the breakers/ahu disconnect.
My Coleman furnace uses the same exact C/B, and the only place I could find a replacement was on eBay, for $80.
And that's exactly the reason why a lot of people say we shouldn't be using the an electric drill like that for undoing the screws cuz they get stripped here's an idea instead of using the actual drill they make a hand screwdriver that's battery operated I'm surprised you don't have one instead of using the actual drill
Using an impact will do it. He should be using a cordless drill/driver screw gun.
I don’t have a problem you have to have control of what you’re doing.
There is exactly ZERO ZIP ZILCH not one chance that the screw is going to strip taking it out. I'm not saying your wrong about those impact will strip the screw. It's going to strip right tighty not loosy lefty
Curtis usually has all the tools he needs EXCEPT for a hammer. He beats on stuff with a variety of tools just never a hammer.
@JohnCline every tool has a hammer side...
I like Gree equipment. First one I installed was a 18k Gree mini split back in 2016 on the second story of a home. That unit is still working great. 16 seer if I remember correctly. It heated great down below 10*f, and felt like it did 2 ton cooling on a 100* day 😂
The gree flex is not a mini split but has a side discharge condenser.
@@gabrielstern4992 really?? Thank you for pointing that out! The air handler in the crawl space under the house made me think it was a mini split. (Sarcasm)
Use proper crimp tool for wire clips .. for firm grip and to avoid loose connections...
The Klein crimper is great. Puts a nice double-crimp on the connectors.
I was just thinking about your install at your home the other day, how is that going for you? It’s crazy that you just posted a video about this particular brand when I was thinking about your install just recently.
That system is doing great
Are you running at 2 or 3 tons? What fan speed? How many square feet? Do you notice any sweating on the duct or air handler?
Love the newer stuff... they all do things differently 😂
At least it did not put the gree gree on you. Nice job
Tech tip for ya Curtis. When hanging your units. Run your all-thread wider than the unit, then install unistrut perpendicular like you did, but then bolt 2 longer pieces of unistrut parallel with the unit. This keeps the all-thread out of the way, plus will keep the cabinet from racking and going out of level. I've been doing them like this for years and it is a much better way. Good fix!!!
Good tip
It’s so frustrating that an air handler is located in a damp crawl space, in the attic or on a roof…What ever happened to having a place in the house. I feel awful seeing you crawl through dirt and 120 degree heat just to service.
@johnshield7157 Usually the HVAC system is the last thing that builders think about. It's all about kitchens and bathrooms to maximize profit. Sad, but true.
@@johnshield7157Space is valuable in a lot of situations.
Off subject, I was living on the bottom floor of an apartment. The sound of that kid in the video brings memories, would do that all hours of the night and day.
I was wondering what that was haha
Hey curtis what tool bag do you use it l wanna get one
Veto propac ot-lc
11:31 noob question, why did it warp like that? Too hot from the roof?
Why did you say you don't install heat strips,,, It gets cold where you are, doesn't it. When the heat pump goes into the defrost mode, the heat strip is needed.... Good videos thanks man
I haven't seen many Grees, if any. What are your thoughts on that brand?
Thanks for the video!
They have been very dependable, easy to install, customers love them
@@HVACGUY Nice. Thanks!
how about your house how is it operating?
No problems at all, that one is chugging right along. And that one is a couple of years old.
So, if it can run as a 3 tone why would it be set up as a 2.5 ton?
More cooling is not always better oversized hvac equipment will cause the units to short cycle and not dehumidify the space properly and is harder on the equipment. Also ductwork is more then likely not sized properly for 3tons of air flow.
i truly hate those pull out disconeccts, i will put a braker in before id do those there cheap an are a pain
👍👍👍
My friend had the 4 ton installed after u did it on your old house. He loves it. This season however, occasionally it will ice up and even blower stop working. Everytime i go, it’s working. Just once in a while it’s acting up. Any suggestions
Blower stops during defrost if there are no heat strips
@@HVACGUY yes no heat strips.
Is that normal for it to ice up during defrost mode
You need to clarify - is this during summer or cooling operation or heating operation?
@@sprockkets summer
@@DevinHVACInc This could be an issue with the inside expansion valve, or the system may not have the correct charge, or the system cannot properly detect temperatures of the refrigerant coming back to the unit to properly gauge the compressor capacity (it's running too fast). You need to have them tell you where the ice forms. Is it near the liquid line, or does it form first on the return gas line to the outdoor unit.
That house has summer insulation. Summa it’s there summa it’s not.
I hate those disconnects.
Those disconnect pull out switches should be outlawed should only be a switch
That’s waaaaaaay too much static pressure for a Gree flex.
I am in the process of installing my own right now.
And the manual calls for .4” max and design is .2”.
Also not sure what your goal with adjusting the fan speed was. You seemed concerned with the humidity, which would normally call for reducing fan speed for better dehumidification. But it sounded as if you were considering increasing the fan speed. Confused?!
I really don't know that I'm okay with the breaker being inaccessible to the average homeowner.
Looked like you needed to be an octopus to work on the that breaker 😊
How much $$ are the control boards for gree flex?
Mr Cool universal and Tosot and I believe senville are all the gree Flexx rebranded.
@@houptee Mr. Cool is made by Midea.
@@mikecockerman2200 Mr. cool central is a gree flex. senville is all midea. but was wondering about board costs, if it is like $1k at cost it's ridiculous and just like north american makes that gouge on parts on their inverter stuff
@@mikecockerman2200no the Mr cool universal is indeed a rebadged gree flex. the Mr cool mini splits some are gree some are midea so it gets tricky.
I can even prove the mr cool universal is a rebadged gree flex because of you pull the sleeve jacket off of the compressor it says gree on it and the colors and set up is exactly the same the diference is Mr cool tries to sell it as diy unit and push no vac linesets.
When these should be installed the correct traditional way. Period.
You guys are also forgetting the trane resolute but that's Canada only which is also a, rebranded gree flex. And personally the trane version is probably better and if trane brought that to the US it would have less issues VS their own micoinverter proprietary systems.
12:53 I’m so sick and tired of videos instead of manuals/text. I don’t want a video that I have to spend an hour and a half to POTENTIALLY get the answer that I could have gotten in a MINUTE by searching for the text… 😤
What a sorry disconnect. Must have been cheap
$16 at Home Depot
I can't believe that the unit is running a/c and heat from the same breaker when there is a provision for two. Why wouldn't you split the heat strips and a/c ? I mean that just seems like an overload waiting to happen
Gree is it made in China😮😅
That supply plenum is atrocious
clickbait
First
🙄