Holeshotting a Worn Out Honda CR500 Didn’t Go as Planned… | Cheap Honda CR500 Pt. 3
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2023
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I like the video, but sometimes you just have to concede you are over your heads and get some help with it.
Find someone who used to run these and see if they can offer any advice besides sell it immediately so you aren't crippled.
Loved it, thank you for sharing your time with us.
im going to suggest a belt to stay on it or let it sit its full of ass whopping your not ready ,put it on your salt flat racer ,its more than anyone wants wore out or not
Guys, that coper was not annealed properly. All the best from Serbia.
Little advice. You use 2nd or even 3rd gear to roll start it 😂
I have never seen so much clutch use on a CR-5. Thr clutch is for starting, not coasting. You'll oil up a plug letting it idle to much. Keep it in gear and revving hard. A CR-5 can sense fear, and will react to it.
Basically, hang on tight and ring its neck. And yes, as 56yo who owned and raced a CR-5 back in the day, I am actually speaking from experience.
yes, 2 strokes need to be run at high rpm or they load up the plug. im saying the same thing the whole time. 1st gear and keep it singing, get the plug good and hot.
Feed her all the onions
Also 56
Also raced years ago .
Totally agree on over use of clutch .
Stop revving it for the camera & thrash the bloody thing .
It'll respect you & run better
I agree. That thing should just scream UP the RPMs. That's when it's happy.
I see it on lots of mericas tube😂
The cr500 is a bike totally deserving of a complete rebuild and restore. I really hope you boys put the time in to restore the bike. Love the content boys keep doing cars and cameras
They do need to step up the cars part of their title however
I'd like to see what's up with the Opal GT !!
@@oldschoolman1444 Are they really called Opal in the states? With an a? Here in germany they are spelled Opel with an e. I know that in england they call them Vauxhall.
I would definitely watch a series where they completely restored it.
@@thorstenhulser5008 yes and If I'm not mistaken the body was designed by the same person that did the Corvette. The Opal GT is known as the baby Corvette.
New reeds are a step in the right direction. Best advice I can give as a professional mechanic is if it doesn't run good on the stand, it isn't going to run better with a load on it. Stop making it harder on yourselves and strap that thing to the stand and get the basics sorted out like the coolant pressure and idle issue. Trying to drive and diagnose a machine when it wont even idle on its own is unnecessarily frustrating, even more so on something like the CR500 which is a bear to start even in good condition.
you guys should keep an eye out for a granite surface plate. resurface that head at home, and your case halves, gasket surfaces ect. You'd probably love it for your small engine builds. Careful though its addicting. It has to be an actual surface plate though, granite counter tops and random pieces of glass aren't flat enough.
I was gonna say that myself ,I do the same
Or a flat piece of bullet proof glass. In trade school We did head lapping on an old side window off a 46 Ford georgia state patrol Governors transit car. It was fully bullet proof and when they broke it down the state sent the door glass to our school on request from our instructor.
I've surfaced a head on a thick piece of glass. Works just fine, better than the block of aluminum and sandpaper they used.
if they want to do it cheap they could also just glue sandpaper to a wooden plate, and sand the cylinder. get smaller grits every 10 minutes of sanding and in an hour it will be smooth again. i did this with my 70cc 2stroke cylinder too and it worked fine, i sanded off more than 2 milimeters because i wanted a smaller squish.
There is absolutely zero chance of you removing 2mm of material and having a flat head afterwards using a piece of sand paper glued to wood. It may not have leaked but it was not flat. @@ultimateearrapechannel31
Awesome video. I owned a KTM 520. I had no idea it had a compression release. After nearly breaking a leg trying to kick start it, I figured it out. Hard lesson learned, lol
f'n OUCH!
For sure
Man I been there done that 😂
So was you afraid of it or did you actually just let her rip lol
I've ridden many bikes in life from enduros to sport bikes to big baggers, and that KTM is the only one that ever scared me. It took a few rides before I opened it up.
As someone that's ripped around on 2 strokes for the first half of my life, I would highly recommend getting used to a 125 or maybe a 250 before you try to tame that 500. Not saying you guys are beginners on bikes, but that thing is a monster. Get you a CR or KX or RM or YZ 125 and get used to that and then you'll have a bit better skill set to tackle that beast. Just my 2 cents.
They have road them before.
I think they are more XR guys.....an XR400 would be perfect for them
Sorry to say they don't have the balls to handle 2 strokes
Skip the 125 and go straight to the 250. 125's are for kids. I was off of the YZ125's and onto a 250 by the time I was 12 or 13, and onto a Husq 390 by 16 or 17.
When I started riding at 7 I went on the 65 then 85 then 125 then 250 then 500 a few years i n between each one tho 😂
@@hemidart7 they have the balks to handle 2 strokes.
You guys might want to check the water pump housing and the seal.
Exactly what I was thinking to. They're notorious for corroding out. A little JB weld and clean up will do the trick.
@@prophez23its already corroded out and they jb welded it. Could be where the pressure is getting into the cooling system.
Check itt
Maybe see what water has gone into the crankcase oil too... Milky?
@@Mountain_Bike_Archaeology it had in earlier video
Taming the RED ROCKET, wait till you get up in the high rev range, just make sure it's pointing in the right direction before you fully commit, and some fast gear changes help... good luck guys
I was going to say they need to open it up it has much much more to show you!!
I've owned mine since I was 15. I'm 48 now and I still throw mine around like it's nothing. Just use to the power. These boys are scared of it. And when you throw fear in the mix with this type of bike bad thing happen. Either you go like a bad out of hell or you go slow and stay out of the power band which is going wreck this bike. It's not good for them. They are designed to be ran and ran hard.
@@draggerlane04090well said. Those things dont like a closed throttle
As with any of the motocross bikes over 250cc, it's not about hammering the throttle, it's all about a smooth roll-on. I'm 60, and I'd take that bike on for a good hard spin. I spent a lot of time on 390's.
I recently picked up a 76 Yamaha IT400 a few weekends ago to wrench on over the winter. She's a bit rough like they always are but I'm gonna make it my own, trying to go Original NOS for a lot of the missing stuff would be way too expensive. Gonna try to do a Cafe Scrambler kind of deal with it.
Now that I have the proper tools to take the engine apart properly as well as some new OE Yamaha seals for the second engine that came with it I can start collecting all of the needed parts. I'll finally be able to start working on my 81 YZ465 as well. 😁
the IT400 is a great bike, first dualsport with some real suspension travel, bigger tank than the DT, wish they were street legal here@@Slane583
@@Slane583 You are wrong sir. I own a cr500 Those bikes are meant to be ridden hard or they are not happy and you start to foul up things It loves going fast and hard. Smooth and slow no. Bad things start to happen. These boys are scared of it. When that happens you might as well sell the bike and get something they can handle. I had to learn the hard way. rebuilding my bike a few times before I realized how to properly ride the thing. A very expensive lesson to learn
@@draggerlane04090 I agree every big bore 2 stroke I have had you had to ride the dog outta it for it to run right if the front tire was on the ground you wasn’t doing it right
@@draggerlane04090I never heard that bike get on the pipe,everytime is coming on power they let out. I had a banshee that if just cruised it along it would run like dog shit foul plugs and load up
So the silver your seeing in the oil is actually clutch basket material.if you look at the clutch basket,there will b grooves in it where the plates ride.also the reason your struggling with the clutch releasing properly.
The new copper gasket coolant holes are too small...you can see the big oval coolant holes in the "old" gasket. Those small holes are restricting coolant flow and thusly raising the pressure. Make the new gasket match the old one and try again.
Thank you.I was looking to see if someone would say this.Why have big Ovals,and 1/3" holes in the gaskets?
Thinking the reason for that is to keep the water in the radiator longer,but I'm with you, more volume is better.
I'm sure the people that designed it would have made the holes the same size as the cylinder if it was better . There's a reason it's like it is. Leave it alone
@@mixingasnhaulinass I have done 2 strokes for over 25 years and most of that on Hondas and the clones...
The hole IS too small. They (The people who made it) know it is and will tell you to make it bigger.
Those gaskets fit more than one engine.
Don't give advise if you dont KNOW...in this case I DO know what I'm saying.
The suspension won’t feel softer when you adjust the rebound and compression. The only way to adjust sag is with the preload adjustment on the spring. Compression and rebound on the reservoir will only effect the shock in its motions. The larger dial and the inner flat head screw are separate adjustments. One being rebound the other compression. I don’t know which is what though
Not only do I love the content, but I love the comrade and the how you all care for each other's safety while doing what you're doing!
I love you guys you're the reason that I'm into mini-bikes and go-karts keep up the good work
I'm happy to be learning along with you guys!! Great project and hope you guys have a great holiday.
The CR 500 & The 500 Quadzilla were the 2 baddest machines on the planet!!! Fun Times
🇺🇸🏁🇺🇸
I would have traced out the old head gasket's hole pattern for the water jacket on the copper one and used a Dremel and files to ensure standard water flow. The new one seems to be pretty restrictive. Good catch on the Visegrip gouge.
How the fuck do they not realize the gasket holes are to small and causeing pressure ffs they are killing me
I used unopend bags of socks from walmart to make a minibike seat
I came to the comment section just to see if I was the only one thinking this or not. But yes my thoughts exactly on tracing the copper gasket with the old and make grooves for water jackets.
Restrictive water flow is actually more beneficial in a cooling system, it helps transfer more thermal energy. Common practice across almost all engines.
Restrictive flow shouldn’t cause pressure in the cooling system, that’ll be compression leaking from the cylinder into the coolant passages. Poor seal. Again nothing to do with restrictive coolant flow.
@@joshuacomeau519 so true but hey maybe they get it after they have read these comments
What a beast😂
You guys have way to much fun with that clapper. I'm jealous😂😂😂
I used to have one when I was a little younger and I almost died so many times that's to much power
Why didn't you open up the coolant passages all the way on the gasket. Restriction might over pressure it.
You honestly have no idea because you guys haven't gotten into the power band really every time you get close you let out that thing will do third and fourth gear launches in the dirt soft dirt dry dirt that bike does not care but you are going to kill it if you keep bogging it the way you are It needs to be opened up and revved to the max if you don't do that that motor won't last
Heyyyy guys y’all need to replace the clutch basket. It’s probably part of the reason that the clutch is sticking. Once you replace the clutch basket watch a video on how to properly adjust a dirt bike clutch lever. I say you should replace the clutch basket because if you watch the footage from the last cr500 video in the clutch basket there are grooves that run parallel to the clutch plates and that can cause the clutch to hang up way more than it’s supposed to. Also the clutch on this bike is supposed to stick a little, enough to notice it in first gear even in brand new condition with the lever properly adjusted. 👍
You guys need a DocZ solo starter to help you with bikes and minibikes. I have one to start my vintage flat trackers at the track and to help at home. Works great and saves my leg.
That decompression thing certainly makes a huge difference, much less likely to end up with all three of you hopping about on one leg in pain now... :P
Yep! I still had mine... it's a PITA... or more like a PITL...hahahahahahahaha...
is a motorbike that absolutely deserves a complete rebuild and restoration. would have figured out the hole pattern of the old head gasket for the water jacket on the copper pad and used a Dremel and file to ensure standard water flow . Love the content where the guys keep making cars and cameras
I love the videos you guys are a lot of fun.
Can’t believe you cut the seat. Might as well put training wheels on it to make it easier for you. 😂
I don't think you get enough credit for the edits. Bloody hard work.
John - great edits
Isaac - mad science engineering
Charles - chill vibes
@@kevinleee3408 Don't forget John full send
Nice to see vids about playing with an 85 cr500r. That's what my bike is, and mine ain't perfect either. On a real hot day this summer, it was jetted a bit too rich to clean out, and the front brake was dragging just a bit. It still went good enough to get me the AMA National Hillclimb Vintage class championship number 1 plate. Didn't think I'd ever see one of those in my lifetime. I love the compression release you put on. Adding one to mine this winter.
“You’ll probably break your leg if you look at it” bro lmfaoo 😂
Dude Charles is a legend He's always worried And he was right on John when he fell And Isaac when he smacked the tree What a Guy Charles
He's definitely Johnny on the spot...Charles seems to be a decent human being...yeah...
John and Isaac couldn’t have found a better addition to the crew than Charles.
Charles is cool as hell
When you tried to anneal Copper head gasket I don't think you heated it long enough. It has to heated to red hot.
Not red hot , its copper it would melt like lead .just get it good and hot and then let it cool off naturally without quenching it in water .
@@nomasker1360 not true.. it needs to be glowing red.. then quenched in water or oil..
Copper melts at 1983 F Lead melts at 622 F.@@nomasker1360
@@texastyrannyresponseteam794 Yeah that HARDEN'S the copper. Not softening it , which is what you want for a head gasket. Watch any knife making show , they quench to harden it. To anneal metal , which keeps it in a softer state , you heat it and let it cool naturally . No quench .
Yeah, they definitely didn't, at least the first time. Maybe Ike did it right the second time but they didn't show it. Also, it should be held at that high temp for a little while so allow it to restructure throughout the whole gasket. Doing it too fast will have inconsistent results, and basically makes this whole process pointless in the given application.
Loving these long format vids Guys! Thank you! Richard.
2am and this Old Man from Washington NC enjoying with my coffee ☕. Awesome video of y'all really sticking to resolving the problem. Always looking forward to your videos. Love You Guys. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
Gotta get it running right and actually give it a bit of throttle next time, with the choke off! Its got wayyy more in it
I used a fresh 3 inch 36 grit on my 90 to shape seat foam. But I did it a LOT over the years building custom fabbed car interiors. And a lot of custom bike seats along the way.
Use two fingers or your middle finger on that clutch to maximize your grip. Takes some getting used to but it most definitely helps be able to handle the ride. And squeeze the bike with your knees when sitting and standing. Keeping your elbows out at a 90 and a 45 will keep you on top of the bike and more engaged as well.
It's been a while (the late 1970's) but I don't think you can anneal that copper gasket with just a propane torch. Last time I did that was with a metal furnace (looks like a ceramic kiln) and tongs and you had to get the copper cherry red/orange (think blacksmith) before it would change colors after about 30 to 60 secs. then quench it in water. All to soften it so you could work it without tearing it. I'm pretty sure that is what they are asking you to do to prep that gasket.
Freggin’ love this channel. You guys rock.
You might want to check what plug you have and make sure you have the right heat range. Finish tuning the carb.
Then it should start and idle better.
Two strokes take a lot of tuning.
Starting with a smaller bike would have been better but you guys are getting it done.
Good job.
I watched to the end without the rewinding, so interesting to watch, keep it up guys! Greetings from Poland
I have a 1993 yz125 and in the past ive had similar problems. When I bought the bike it was a bear to start and really would only bumbstart. I had weak and intermiten spark. How i diagnoses this and fixed it was by testing the resistance of the primary, secondary, and pickup coils on the stator. Also not a bad idea to give the ignition coil a test. Compare these readings in ohms to the specs in the manuel to see if you are within range. I had to solder on a new secondary coil. Bike started first kick and would idle all day. A few years later an issue happened to be caused by the pickup wire, Spark must be strong and timed correctly.
You are correct but I believe the spark is ok with this bike. With experence of owning a Cr500 33 years they are having a carb problem. The problem is that carb is meant for the track not for trails has a "4 cycle spot” from 1/8-1/4 throttle and then a big hit when it goes into 2 cycle above 1/4 throttle. It’s very difficult to tune out during the summer heat. Not a problem on the motocross track, but in the tight trails it’s a handful. They need a Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker as it’s easier to tune for a wide range of conditions
Great video guys. I have an 82 YZ 490 which I've owned since 87. If I try and ride that bike like you guys are riding that 500 without winding it up most of the time it will load up with oil and it gets to where it's real hard to start or you can't start it at all without taking the spark plug out and cleaning it off starting it and then holding it wide open till it cleans the the oil out of the inside of the motor I went through that several times till I learned to ride at wide open throttle. Be careful on that thing. Love your content. I'll chat with you guys about it when I catch you at Pate in April. I seriously thought about buying that bike myself
❤ Love the show, keep up the amazing work!! ❤
I never quench a copper gasket after annealing it. As it was explained to me, the copper swells when heated and returns 99% back down to size after cooling slowly. I think the quench hardens it which is no bueno.
In the case of the fairly pure copper it does not undergo a phase change - it is a face-centered-cubic (FCC) metal at high temperature and an FCC metal at room temperature. As a result, quenching the copper has no impact on its stiffness, but the quick change in size (it shrinks more than the oxide layer) causes the oxide to flake off. The key to annealing is to get it hot enough, long enough so that new more perfect grains (crystals) form and grow to an optimal size. Too small and the copper is stiff because there are too many grain boundaries. Too large and the grains span across and the properties are inconsistent. I have not researched it, but my educated guess is that the optimal time/temperature will depend upon the thickness.
Steel (an iron-carbon alloy) undergoes a fairly dramatic phase change upon cooling. At high temperature iron is a body-centered-cubic (BCC) metal while it is FCC at room temperature (there is an additional very high temperature FCC phase that is not part of this discussion). The carbon will fit into the gaps in the BCC structure, but not the FCC structure. During slow cooling (traditional annealing) the carbon can move around and form iron-carbide (Fe3C) and let the iron forms its FCC structure. During quenching the carbon cannot move around and the BCC structure distorts into a body-centered-tetragonal (BCT) structure which is very hard and brittle. The steel is then tempered at a moderate temperature to allow the carbon to form very small bits of Fe3C with small FCC iron grains to give a hard, but strong metal.
Now to make things more complicated we have the aluminum alloys that contain a few percent of different alloying elements. At high temperature they form an FCC solid solution that can be quenched with no phase change. They are then reheated to a moderate temperature (tempered) to cause the alloying elements and aluminum to form compounds just like we saw for steel with Fe3C, but these compounds are a bit softer.
All of this effort is to control the motion of dislocations (imperfections) in the metal structure. These dislocations are like putting a bump into the edge of a large rug and pushing the bump across the rug which is far easier than trying to pull the entire rug across the floor at once. It is the same in deforming a metal - the dislocation is far easier to move than trying to move two pieces of the metal past each other at one time. During bending or other cold working (like drawing the wire to diameter) lots of dislocations are put into the metal. This is like having lots of cars on the road in the city center with the stop lights out - grid lock develops and it becomes harder and harder for the cars to move - same with the dislocations. In copper the dislocations become tightly entangled fairly quickly so the metal work hardens quickly and becomes much stiffer. In aluminum they do not entangle as quickly and can even self adjust a bit at room temperature due to the lower melting point of aluminum. As a result, aluminum does not work harden as much or as quickly. The high temperature annealing allows the formation and growth of new, more perfect grains without the dislocations. A bit like waiting until 9 pm to go home to avoid the gridlock.
Also to answer the end of the video. 2 strokes are super funny. Fuel ratio is super important. Check the plug. Plugs are good for only so long in 2 strokes and it would make sense as to why it started great then got worse over time plug was fouling. Especially if coolant was making its way to the piston. Like Issac always says keep it simple stupid. That motto has saved me a ton. Flywheel weight is great for stalling and will make the bike smoother by slowing down the revs. I don’t know about starts but good for slower riding. And obviously a lighter flywheel will do the opposite. It’ll rev up super quick and still easier. Reeds wouldn’t hurt always good to have a fresh set. I don’t remember if y’all have now but check your jetting make sure it’s correct. Could go back to the starting issue. I believe, I could be wrong there’s adjustment make sure it’s 1 1/4 turn out that’s the starting point for pilot jets. Manual might say otherwise.
As a 5'6" also that owned a cr 500, I hear your pain. 😅 once ya learn where to put that piston when starting, it goes a lot better.
and they will never run right unless pegged out huh they love the rpms. Been through this many guys are like whats wrong lol go faster thats whats wrong lol its a racing machine not a cruiser
@@jimmycrackcorn9568 exactly there just being whimps its a 2 stroke not a 4stroke its gonna run like crap when your too scared to get in the throttle
@@TylerDuysenThat's not fear, that's respect...and they are amazed at the power...don't pick, it's not attractive...
@@jimmycrackcorn9568 lol they did idle around the track.
right its still awesome i love to watch cause its how i was and am but they still have no clue whats beast they ride upon lol Ike knows but is hesitant and john is too curious still and charles knows lol
@@kwslife116
I love the cr500 videos please keep making them.
Got my ornament ordered to help you out Charles! Thank y’all for the awesome content!!
A bit of JB Weild in the gouging will help after a good cleaning.
Well it helped with a old 200cc hond 3wheeler that had been trashed by 3 different owners before we got it. My cousins ran it that way for a few years and I had it a few years after getting from them. It was still running when I sold it still with the JB.
Might I suggest that the thing you are talking about is a decompression lever. I had a Yammy TT500 which had a decompression lever, I didn't use it in the end as I was heavy enough to kick it over from top dead centre... That TT500 was an awesome 4 stroke beast.
Issac, you are my hero!! GenX for that, balls to the wall, no hold back, full send, attitude of pure adventure no matter the situation!!! Willing to do anything because it’s totally worth it, even when you leave the choke on!! LOL. I would watch a video of just a hot lap with that beauty. The testicular fortitude required to just start that thing is enough to make that video a hit.
Hilarious that you mention kaplan america. My last appartment was about 100 yards from new england motorcycle museum and kaplan cycles. Used to watch his videos for me riding by when id catch him out filming. Dude went from kaplan computers in the 90s-00s to getting jacked and going all in on the museum. Good stuff
Loving the longer episodes,
Looking for an hour long bloopers episode...
Thanks for sharing!
mirror (or glass) , and sandpaper is the PERFECT re-decking setup 😁😁
Could be crank seals. But to be fair, I believe those bikes were near impossible to start brand new.
Had a 91Cr500 ,mine had 2 reliefs about 1/2 tall above the exhaust port to bleed off compression as the piston came up.I had mine bored which removed most them.I reground them back in with a sand roll on a Dremel.Different years had different base and head gasket thicknesses. Put a set of Boysen power reeds,they're cheap & work good.Try a little smaller pilot jet to help adjustability of idle .
I always use a special stud extractor too; attachment on my socket ratchet, when removing or installing studs on my own or other folks engines. Only a "Kevin" would use Mole / Vice grips to remove a stud. I've had to put right a few 2 stroke motors that have been "Kevined" over the past 4 decades. The most recent is a 1978 CZ250 with the wrong specification right crank journal bearing, which the engine still managed to somehow run with, despite the tightness and drag. It was "fun" removing it without damaging the crank.
May I suggest using a small piece of tinfoil as a patch, under the copper gasket, to temporarily fix the damaged sealing surface.
You definitely need a redemption video this one was tuff lol John needs to stop skipping leg 🦵 day at the gym and try without choke on 🤣 I learned how to ride on 500 2strokes if you don’t have the little tricks down you will break your leg , only compression release iv ever needed was on a bulltaco 350 2stroke and that was only because the kickstart is on the left side - would love to see a update when you fix all the gremlins
Not to bag on Charles too bad, but what makes the cr500 appealing is that the bike is trying to kill you 😅 you just can't be faint hearted to ride it or it'll drop you like a bad habit
it worse when they run like shit so you run the throttle open and go from a bog or load up into the pipe, if they could learn how to set up a carb properly these bikes are not nearly as terrifying, mine runes crisp and doesnt 4 stroke at all even cruising at 20mph at 1/8 throttle
That's not what makes the bike appealing 😂😂.
1:08:25 Anyone who's ridden a while knows that manhood adjustment when they see it🤣 especially on the spicy 2 strokes. 🤣👏👏
Great video guys!
I did a temp fix with a little JB weld, The jug was deep scuffed, It has lasted 3 years so far.
yup, if they fix te groove with JB before sanded it would have worked
You guys are doing a great job! Taking an old Legend and bringing it back to life.....even if it's a pain in the ass! Can't wait to see the end product. I think this is the machine will take #1 on the leader board for fastest lap hands down! It's just learning how to ride this machine without killing yourself.....🥴
clean the pilot circuit in the carb body, and it'll idle and run at low rpms. all the air ports in the carb probably need a good cleaning too. if you have to turn the pilot screw out more than 2 turns to idle, the pilot jet is too small. if you have to turn it in to less than 1 turn, pilot is too big. start with that, and make sure the tank is vented properly and float level is set right.
That’s backwards and incorrect. 😂 😂 It’s an air screw on those carbs. Turning the screw out increases air not fuel.
More than 3 turns out the pilot is too large. And if it’s only half a turn out the pilot is a bit small but will still operate fine if you ride it like a 2 stroke and not a 4 stroke.
If your engine braking and keeping the clutch out going down large hills then you might want a larger pilot if the air screws only half a turn out
you're right, i have it backwards.. :shrug @@All-Sgood
Love this series!
from my experience as over 30 years motorcycle mechanic you really need to heat up the coppergaskets very very well to make the copper way more soft to seal correctly and i love how Ike also used copper spray on the headgasket... i do this also on new metal/more layer headgaskets and never ever had one failing or burning on the aluminum parts.... keep on guys i watch all your episodes every time. simply love your friendship and see you have fun and wrench together 🙃🙂👌
Just saying after only watching half the video, you need to run it at much higher revs while driving for a high performance 2stroke to run well ;) it sounds like a 4 stroke at low revs ;) but it sounds ok at idle as well
Well hell you're already turning it into a Mini bike You might as well swap a tillotson in there too. This is the only way all 3 of you make it out the other side alive
Keep up the great videos! Your still my #1 channel
Hey great job on it so far. I believe in you guys . You'll take over busko beach as champions. Once again I'm sure of it. Happy thanks giving guys.
I've never ridden any dirtbike over 250 and only could imagine the power that 500 puts out even in 1985. The bike sounds so good. Keep the 500 content coming guys!
Charles, you really made me laugh when you thanked John for installing the power band lol. It reminded me of a kid in high school I knew roughly around 1986 or 87. He was constantly bullshitting about bikes and racing them and so on but he could never, ever come out with any of us that actually did ride street and dirt bikes. One time he actually told us that he was waiting for a new power band to come into the bike shop in town as his broke in a race lol. Years and years later he wound up getting a job at the factory I was working at and one day at lunch around the picnic table he started to tell everyone a story about how he got caught riding his Harley across the Canadian border from the US with his front forks packed with that illegal white stuff lol. I literally spit my pop out and burst into laughter as I just couldn't contain it any longer lol. Thanks for the flashback memory you guys caused to pop into the front of my brain. It really made me laugh again. The CR 500 was an absolute insane but incredibly fun bike to rip around on. Nothing from any of the other manufacturers compared to in my humble opinion. A friend of mine had a newer one that was all set up for ice racing and I got to mess around with it a few times in my early 20s out on Georgian Bay here in Parry Sound Ontario. It was a shit ton of fun and I wasn't quite as concerned about wiping out as for the most part you'd just fall off and slide until you came to a stop. Of course in my teen years and early to mid 20s there was no such thing as moderation or careful riding but at least there was a significant better chance of no injuries on the ice. It was a completely different experience on the ice and so, so, so much fun. I so wish I could hop on one today but young Paul would surface and most likely kill old Paul lol. You guys take care there and keep safe. Thanks again for all the fantastic content.
When the head came off it looked suspiciously clean as well as the top of the piston. My experience with old 2 strokes is lots of carbon build up in a pretty short period of time. I would regularly pull the head to scrape the carbon. Introducing a little water into the cylinder will clean the carbon off too. That is what I suspect was the reason for the clean head and piston top.
If you have to remove the cylinder head again, consider checking and setting, if needed, the squish band. Check the how to videos. Very simple and worthwhile to do. Different thicknesses of head gaskets are available to aid in setting the squish band to proper clearance.
Check your clutch baskets for notches worn into it. It’s pretty common on the 500’s. They grip the plates and make them not work good. I’ve had them built up and machined back down before but now days I’m sure you can order one cheaper.
watch a ronnie mac video 6 or 9 times. you'll be hole shotting like a pro
Select the head cap for any warping due to the temperature developed when the chainsaw decompressor was welded. Place the cap on a flat glass and with a gap gauge check for any gap. Keep going you are strong no one is perfect we all learn from our mistakes greetings from Greece
Not that you guys read comments but do you realize those Keihin PJ carburetors have their own unique way of adjusting the idle? There is no idle screw like you guys are used to, you turn the knob on the choke lever to adjust the idle. Look closely on the carburetor under the choke plunger and it's written there on the carb body. In your first video from months ago when charles was cleaning the carb it appears you are missing the top of the choke plunger you would normally turn to adjust the idle.
Check the cylinder head for warpage. The heat from welding the bung for the compression release to the head may have warped it.
It looked like it has been bead blasted and machined flat
Pull starting, shifting for each other…You guys just weren’t cut out for two wheels 😂
They are learning and having fun, there's really no need to be insulting and snobby.
there's no need to be so sensitive. He wasn't being snobby at all. It's true. These guys seem terrified of this bike. Charles won't even ride the damn thing. Some of us wouldn't even say no to a litre 2-stroke if given the chance. Some of us are just built different. @@Toolness1
@@Toolness1 I’m not insulting. I’m generally having a laugh just as I would with a buddy. When you assume…
Those things are a beast.i went from a 1981 cr 80 to the 1983 cr480 when I was 15.took months for me to be able to start it on my on with the left hand kick starter.i still have it and plan on restoring it soon
Happy Thanksgiving guys all of you and your family's
When I had a cr500 the guy I did the deal with gave me a Roller he had made, he set it on the ground then drove one of his Van wheels onto it then his son put the CR back wheel onto the roller and it worked flawlessly!
Worth a build video as iv never seen another, I passed it on to the new owner after I sold it later on.
I signed on the frame of the rollers my name and date and also signed the previous owners initials and date of sale just because 😅
It's expensive as heck, but Panthera Motors out of Canada makes a starter motor kit for these CR500's as well as the KX500. :)
Good idea
@@kevinleee3408 It is, but I doubt they'll want to spend the $2,000 on it. I found out about it a while back through BVC Racing when they built a CR500 based ATC 250. They put the kit on for ease of starting and left the kicker as back-up. :)
I used to race a 85 cr500, alot of fun, they work better if you add a flywheel weight. They are circular and weld to the outside of the flywheel. It makes them easier to start and keeps it from stalling at low speeds. Also the suspension is horrible, find a racetech dealer and have the rebuild the fork and shock.
Happy Thanksgiving y'all🦃🍗🍠🥧🍽️
This episode reminds me of my recent journey with my 2000 Polaris sportsman 335 4x4. I bought it over a year ago and I've had to tear into the engine 4 times to do all kinds of stuff. Recently I bent the exhaust valve cause of bad timing and had to replace that but hopefully tomorrow I can try to start it up and see if it runs
I bet it would smash any lap record you have in full order.
Not with those 3 riding it
You guys always make me nervous when you play with this beast!!! Also, even though you didn't show it in any great detail, I think you needed to heat that copper a bit more before you quenched it. I've annealed copper pipe a many times for bending and you can really apply some heat to it. You won't hurt it at all.
They didn't even get it close to annealing temperature (cherry red). Also, you don't need to cool it rapidly in water either, but that's probably easier to write instructions for.
It does help to get rid of the oxidation though (quenching). @@johncoops6897
great stuff guys thanks
This reminds me of the 1986 WR400 husqvarna 2 stroke 6 speed I had. The thing would pull a wheelie in every gear and was just stupid fast. It was built race ready from the factory.
Wait. Has Charles never ridden a motorcycle with a twist throttle or did I miss something?
Charles just needs a smaller bike to start using a hand clutch with. An xr80r would be nice. But once you're used to snapping up and down gears, you'll want more power. Admittedly that frame is enormous and itll take a while to get used to riding 4 feet off the ground. Personally I think cvts take half the fun out of riding and driving. Save the manual
Cvts just for average riders who want to have some fun but they don’t need to go fast
Love large cc 2 strokes. 2 broken collar bones, a concussion, and a foot that hurts everytime it gets cold.from 30 yrs ago. Worth every minute i spent with them.
I would try different oil. Not oil is equal. As far as idling goes we were constantly adjusting it from the throttle. The reeds do change as it get hot. Something I’m worried about, it was very common to cut the head and run race gas. This is the path I think your on. Something else that used to happen was when they get hot the staters got weak. Sitting and idling is bad for heat those radiators don’t have fans so a liquid cooled engine gets hot faster. I’ve actually have never seen a stock one. When riding you need to keep a steady throttle two stroke can flood out fast when you let off the throttle. The third gear a whole shot is for sand, and it’s amazing. You’re real close. Also, that is way too fast for your track. Gas and oil is best place to start. You could run your track in just second and third keeping the rpm’s up. Thank you it brings back so many memories. I had a friend that build one and he couldn’t start so he let me ride it because I could. I had so much fun.
I wonder how many broke bones or injuries period was caused by riding this bike. It's definitely not a joke. Very wicked bikes
These bikes have probably killed several hundred people just from taking people places they weren't meant to go. Up hills we weren't meant to climb lol.
Charles's reaction is priceless.🤣🤣
Great channel guys!
One mean machine guys. I like it. Keep up the great work yins guys
I can’t watch any more. They’re slowly ruining what was a some what easily rebuildable survivor.
😭don't go
They are learning and having fun. Don’t like it, buy your own and do it yourself!
Those boys don't how precious that japanese demon is
@@Yosser70 the problem is if most of us can actually find one that someone is willing to part with, they are outrageously expensive.
I agree make idiots READ BOOKS.
Just so you know with those 500 two strokes the less exhaust you got the harder they are to start
Love to have one!!!!! Had a Husky WR 400, it was wicked. Y'all would FREAKOUT trying to start one of our boat racing engines. 2 cylinder. 13:1 compression 2 stroke. Starter crankrope. No flywheel, just aluminum start pully
It takes a very experienced rider to handle that bike.
Back in the 80's I had the cr250 & my brother had a 500 & the 500 was too much for me. My brother on the other hand could ride the snot out of it. In 1985 I was 17 years old & around 140 pounds so the 500 didn't even know I was on it.
Good luck holding on to it.
If you guys want to get the bike perfect, hit up Michael Sabo. Dude can make any bike or atv look brand new and run flawlessly. Would be awesome to see you all do a video together. My childhood best friend had a cr500, we could hardly ever kick start it. We always just roll started it, thing was a beast
We used to turn our electric stove tops to high and heat our copper head gaskets on them 'till they turned cherry red. Never quenched them because we preferred to have them a little soft. I've also had to remove damage from a cylinder/cylinder head mating surface and was away from my shop. I used a sheet of thick glass (from a sliding glass door) to tape the carbide paper to and moved the cylinder across it in a figure eight pattern. The glass is straight as you can get in a pinch and keeps the paper flat. Did y'all know there are starter motor kits available for your bike?
Quenching copper doesn't affect the hardness of it since it's FCC regardless of the temperature. It's different with steel.
In 1980 I bought a Suzuki RM400 it was a 1979 in the crate the motorcycle shop put it together it was $1,000 dollars out the door. And I have to tell you that was before they started detuning the power bands in the big two-stroke engine's, And it was a power band beast. I had no problem with the power that it had none whatsoever. You just have to learn throttle control! I never rode a Yamaha 490 or any of the 500s. But I still want one and I'm 65 working on 66 and I'll guarantee you that thing wouldn't scare me one bit. I would enjoy all of it's power,