Perfume Masterclass episode 9 - Ingredients - Labdanum & Ambergris
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- #LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #Masterclass
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Episode 9 of the Perfume Masterclass series: videos in which we delve deeper into the fragrance industry than we do in the Love At First Scent series.
This was a RUclips Live broadcast streamed on Monday 20th November 2023.
In this episode, I interviewed Remi Pulverail (Les Indemodables; Atelier Francais Des Matieres) about labdanum and ambergris. We talked about the different types of olfactory material that can be obtained from the cistus plant, as well as delving into the opaque world of ambergris trade and the problems with predicting a reliable supply of the material.
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[* Since November 2020, I have been commissioned by Amouage to complete various projects, some of which have had a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection.]
Copyright 2023 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.
I have some questions about Andalucían history too. Excuse me gentlemen, but the Gitano communities have been sedentary in Spain for at least 400 years. They were even forced to by law after the Reconquista.
There have always been humble people in Andalucían society who worked in the countryside. Some of them were Gitanos, of course.
I am also wondering what would be so funny about the Gitano society, when they celebrate a christian based festivity which they share with the rest of the catholic population. Btw. many people who participate in El Rocío are extremely well off and most are no Gitanos at all. It is even considered a high society type of thing nowadays.
Spanish perfume history is highly fascinating and closely related to the country's social and cultural history. There was a fusion between the Arabic decended part of the population and the Gitano population in the 16th century which I could imagine may be responsible for the knowledge about the production and the high quality standards of Spanish labdanum in particular.
Thanks very much for taking the time to write this. I'll let Remi answer, as he may know more about the historical context.
I understand: it is necessary on this channel to point out that my question above was a rhetoric one. ( I recommend googeling what that means, in case you have to)
The information which is provided in this video about the Gitano population is incorrect, disrespectful and sounds colonialist, to put it mildly.
There is no point in claiming that what I say above is what is meant in the video, in case this is what Mr. Pulverail means in his comment below.
Let me be clear about my last point from above too. When I speak about the fusion between the Arabic and the Gitano population I am not referring to any cheap and available labour forces! I am speaking about the caretaking, and preservation, of some very valuable artistic heritage of the Spanish nation.
this is absolutely true that gitanos are settled there for a very long time; now there is still a very strong identity that they try to maintain, and this is the reason why they can not be considered as local Spanish people. Those communities live together but it is not always very easy...the objective in our speech was not to be irrespectful at all: this is probably not the place to develop more on this complex social dimension, and of course when we try to summarise we are always a bit caricatural...sorry for this. Thanks for your comments anyway!
Thank you Persolaise and Remi! This whole series was excellent and incredible that something so valuable is not behind a paywall and free to view and learn from.
Also led me to order the discovery set from Les Indémodables and can’t wait to smell each perfume.
Thank YOU so much for watching. I'm really pleased you're enjoying the series.
Fascinating episode. Made even more interesting by some of the comments. I agree with your confusion - why is it still being done by hand and not industrialised but also that factor makes it so much more special. This might just be a very old school and whimsical idea but I do feel that when people do something by hand, somehow that personal touch and their passion also gets infused in the process. What a wonderful community it must be.
Yes, it's a fascinating situation.
Thanks for watching.
This was so informative, thank you both so much 🙋🏻♀️🇦🇺❤️
Many thanks for watching.
Some varieties of Cistus are used in herbal medicine :) Not the labdanum but plant
Good to know, thank you.
My favourite series, thank you Persolaise ❤
That’s very kind, thank you.
Fascinating series! I watched all the masterclasses 1-9 all in one day. Kinda like the book I couldn’t put down. Remi is the consummate expert and you are the expert at getting the best out of him. Your interruptions weren’t rude at all, you just knew perfectly the art of doing it respectfully. So much of RUclips is filled with bottle-pushers, and you are one person that truly inspired my interest to go deeper and learn more. Absolutely fantastic!! One quick question - in the 9 episodes, you kept saying to Remi “…you sent me…”, were you referring to the Grand Crus collection (which I am going to get) or did you get a special package from him? 😊
Thank you very, very much indeed for your kind words. I’m so pleased you enjoyed the episodes.
For most of the episodes, Remi sent me some raw materials in addition to the ones available in the Grand Crus set.
I absolutely adore Ambre Supreme.
It’s a great piece of work.
Absolutely love labdanum and all it's variants, although I'm yet to put my hand on hydrocarboneresine (a bit expensive this material, ambrarome is amazing too, very animalic bit "ambergris like"), I find labdanum just like patchouli, 2 incredible and fairly cheap natural materials to work with, they morph so well making them versatile invaluable materials.
P.S.: Some smaller houses still use ambergris, Papillon is a house I know very well that uses ambergris on at least 2 of their fragrances, spell 125 (quite a hefty dose of it) and tobacco rose. Other even smaller houses use it too, but general speaking almost no house use it anymore
You’re right, there are still a few places that use ambergris. Thanks for watching.
Very interesting series! Too bad I missed the live chat..I always wonder if the trio ladanum, vanilla, benzoin refers to ambergis or amber- resin? Does amber( resin), actually the accord representing it, exist? We usulally say Amber- what does it mean? Is it something what could be a resin, or rather it has nothing in common? Does such a term as amber ( as a Fossilized Resin) exist in perfumery?
I know that IT is possibile to get the Amber extract but it is probably not used in mainstream perfumery. Right? ( Or maybe do you know any? Intuition EL? But I think it's rather a good marketing..) I talk about the Accord of other ingredients which is called Amber.
'Amber' is the term used to describe the accord.
Thanks very much for watching.
Escale En Indonisie is so stunning. I couldn't find a bottle in the US, so I ordered it from Sainte Cellier. I simply had to have it. Les Indemodables is my favorite house.
many thanks for your comment; this is rewarding for us!
I really need to try the colognes!
Absolutely right ! And as we said a long lasting and efficient supply chain needs both the ‘terroir’ and human factor to flourish..on the long run;
Thanks again for your time, Remi.
I have a question. If essential oils are subjected to the extreme heat of distillation and are not denatured, then why does heat, even at a much lower temperature, supposedly affect perfumes that are finished and ruin the fragrance? Thanks.
this is not the same timeline: distillation takes a few hours and destroys the most fragile aromatic molecules; perfume decline in quality after a year because of the oxydation of volatile molecules in particular
actually the distillation time is a few hours and the heat destroys the most fragile aromatic molecules; to keep the perfume safe we talk about 18 months before the oxydation process shall become an issue and negatively impact the top notes. So we do not talk here about things which are comparable,
I see Remi has replied. Thanks very much for watching.
@@latelierfrancaisdesmatiere4992 That part I know. However, reviewers say to keep your bottles in a cool place.
@@Persolaise I see you trust someone named Remi. No one has addressed what I asked. I know about oxidation. That wasn’t my question. People say to store your bottles in a cool place. Why? I have a degree in chemistry and am very familiar with distillation having done it many times in the lab. How could the slightly warm temperature in say a bathroom affect a fragrance, but distillation won’t? It doesn’t make sense.
1:22 We could go with Jacques Clouseau and start saying “amburgah”.
(Inside joke for Pink Panther fans)
In a Peter Sellers accent, I presume.
fascinating !! thank you
Thanks very much for watching.
Marquis de Sade Attack the Sun by Eldo.
Thanks for watching.
🫶 Thanks for sharing 🤗
Thanks very much for watching.
lvmh does uses real ambergris, guerlain uses real ambergirs, i have seen it, im not speculating
yes in some rare creation/collections like Ambre Eternel, but no longer in their classical ones...which was the case in the past
I believe Francis Kurkdjian posted a video last year, showing he'd acquired a piece of ambergris.
@@latelierfrancaisdesmatiere4992 true
@@latelierfrancaisdesmatiere4992yes it was still used in Guerlain’s extraits of the classics before they slowed production also in Encens Mythique of course