Great video! I watched it a lot and did the same project, except I replaced the struts at the same time. I wasn't as fortunate to get the control arm bushings in the mounts. I just ordered new ones for $50. For those wondering cost, I bought genuine bmw parts in a kit which included: Lower suspension control arms, stabilizer bar links, steering tie rod assembly, steering tie rod lock plates for $315, control arm bushings in mounts $50, and struts, mounts, and bellows fro $335. Of course I trickled the parts in over a couple of months so as to not raise suspision.... shhhh don't tell!
recently got a 2000 z3 soft top from my grandfather this past year with only 2700 miles on it, love how informative you are on the maintenance definitely going to be coming back on the regular as i start to really make the car my own
Awesome, that should be a ton of fun! Our advice would be to replace the rubber stuff, and to be very careful with the convertible top in cool weather!
That's what Im gonna tell my sister when she nags about me working on her old Z3, she bought new and now gave to me. THIS CAR HAS HAD OVER 20 YEARS OF NEGLECT! This is the reason why Im always working on it.
Nice job. I did replace the engine and transmission mounts. Trans is easy, just be careful with the additional jack to elevate the tranny a bit. The engine mount on the driver side was fine accessed it from the top with extenders. But the passenger side **be careful* could have been a disaster. The bolt is designed to strip if not careful, because unlike the other side, the lip of the engine does not allow for a socket to fully sit, (your socket is always on a slight angle) so you have to be SUPER careful not to strip it, to soak it up in lubricant spray plenty beforehand, day before even, let it soak, then take it out in small controlled well supported small turns, if you get careless, lazy and lose it will strip and then you are in a world of hurt. If you are methodical and careful you will get it out, to put the new bolt back in same thing, be careful on that side and you will be fine.
How much were the parts $ and how long did this take? I just got a 97 Z3 and the front end feels very floaty and it tends to want to steer left or right, which makes me think I've got to do this whole job and maybe the steering rack as well.
Hey did you ever do this job? I'm also where you were 2 years ago with a 97 1.9. Just replaced the tires and that helped trailing and bump steer a lot but still very bumpy front end driving experience.
@@smoothoperator1663 That's a great choice! We went with some coilovers because we wanted some added adjustability, keep an eye out for that video coming up in the future!
My project was a lot more enjoyable because I cleaned and degreased the whole area before I started, makes a difference also guys. Doesn't take much time.
So I got an alienment and the whole Z3 not unwinding thing actually happened after the alignment. Certain they missed it up, but would like to know what exactly they missed up.
@ Unfortunately we've found that its one of those "it depends" situations. The sanctioning bodies have different restrictions and could even be down to the inspector on the day, we've heard that NASA is more lenient than SCCA. This seems to be the case for HPDE and competition. If you can pass the "broomstick test" and have 2" above that, the stock roll hoops should be fine. That said, the factory ones and the factory A-pillar aren't very robust and you could still be injured in a rollover. The better solution is to install a Hard Dog bar, which is stronger and also raises the height of the rear bar. The only catch is that it doesn't fit with the powered top and would need to be notched. It fits fine with a manual top. Hope that helps!
Great video! I watched it a lot and did the same project, except I replaced the struts at the same time. I wasn't as fortunate to get the control arm bushings in the mounts. I just ordered new ones for $50. For those wondering cost, I bought genuine bmw parts in a kit which included: Lower suspension control arms, stabilizer bar links, steering tie rod assembly, steering tie rod lock plates for $315, control arm bushings in mounts $50, and struts, mounts, and bellows fro $335. Of course I trickled the parts in over a couple of months so as to not raise suspision.... shhhh don't tell!
29:30 yep you knew straight off it needed a tweak, and yep the alignment, nice one
Putting everything back together thanks for sharing great video
recently got a 2000 z3 soft top from my grandfather this past year with only 2700 miles on it, love how informative you are on the maintenance definitely going to be coming back on the regular as i start to really make the car my own
Awesome, that should be a ton of fun! Our advice would be to replace the rubber stuff, and to be very careful with the convertible top in cool weather!
What a unicorn! Congrats, and please don’t rice it out. Tasteful mods>>>
That's what Im gonna tell my sister when she nags about me working on her old Z3, she bought new and now gave to me.
THIS CAR HAS HAD OVER 20 YEARS OF NEGLECT! This is the reason why Im always working on it.
But, remember with a Z.....Drive it like you STOLE IT
Nice job. I did replace the engine and transmission mounts. Trans is easy, just be careful with the additional jack to elevate the tranny a bit. The engine mount on the driver side was fine accessed it from the top with extenders. But the passenger side **be careful* could have been a disaster. The bolt is designed to strip if not careful, because unlike the other side, the lip of the engine does not allow for a socket to fully sit, (your socket is always on a slight angle) so you have to be SUPER careful not to strip it, to soak it up in lubricant spray plenty beforehand, day before even, let it soak, then take it out in small controlled well supported small turns, if you get careless, lazy and lose it will strip and then you are in a world of hurt. If you are methodical and careful you will get it out, to put the new bolt back in same thing, be careful on that side and you will be fine.
Thank you so much for the video! Keep them coming.
Great guide just about to do this job thanks! 👍
I need to do the same on my ‘98. Doesn’t look like a lot of fun 🤯
Hey guys! amazing videos, when do you will upload more content? Thanks and congrats for your channel!
Unfortunately we have less time to edit videos these days, but thanks for the kind words!
A good trick is to put the new bushings in the freezer before installing
How much were the parts $ and how long did this take? I just got a 97 Z3 and the front end feels very floaty and it tends to want to steer left or right, which makes me think I've got to do this whole job and maybe the steering rack as well.
Exact same issue on my 2000 z3. I think a cheap coilover set would fix that so ill lyk how it goes.
Hey did you ever do this job? I'm also where you were 2 years ago with a 97 1.9. Just replaced the tires and that helped trailing and bump steer a lot but still very bumpy front end driving experience.
great video i have a 97 2.8 n wondering the milage on yer z3
This one has about 76k miles on it. Bet the 2.8 is pretty fun!
i in stalled new bilstein s up front n it made a big difference at 83k.
@@smoothoperator1663 That's a great choice! We went with some coilovers because we wanted some added adjustability, keep an eye out for that video coming up in the future!
Great....thanks a lot
Why not go with poly bushings? Good video btw.
My project was a lot more enjoyable because I cleaned and degreased the whole area before I started, makes a difference also guys. Doesn't take much time.
So I got an alienment and the whole Z3 not unwinding thing actually happened after the alignment. Certain they missed it up, but would like to know what exactly they missed up.
Can you put a link to the parts in the description???
Mines is 20 years old as well where in philadelphia can I go for help guys on a budget
how do i know if i can install roll bars or if my 2000 z3 2.5l comes with them?
I'm pretty sure they all come with sway bars. You could upgrade them or just change the bushings and end links.
@@BS.Garage meant roll bar like for track days
@ Unfortunately we've found that its one of those "it depends" situations. The sanctioning bodies have different restrictions and could even be down to the inspector on the day, we've heard that NASA is more lenient than SCCA. This seems to be the case for HPDE and competition.
If you can pass the "broomstick test" and have 2" above that, the stock roll hoops should be fine. That said, the factory ones and the factory A-pillar aren't very robust and you could still be injured in a rollover. The better solution is to install a Hard Dog bar, which is stronger and also raises the height of the rear bar. The only catch is that it doesn't fit with the powered top and would need to be notched. It fits fine with a manual top. Hope that helps!
How many miles were on the Z???? Curious
76k!
Please replace the suspension
Totally did, it's glorious, video to come
When?!
The second he admitted that they are dragging this out, I left. Waste of time not to show the whole job.