if you bought from ewheels, your patton had its motor screws checked. Almost 1000 hard miles on mine it is still as solid as a hunk of steel. Im having a hard time looking at other wheels.
Bought mine from eWheels and awaiting it in the mail. Latest batch so the full charge braking that bricks the wheel is solved. I’ve been told Veteran wheels are super reliable so I can’t wait! Had some issues with my V12.
@@gavinzoomscan I ask what suspension you went with ? I’m 165lbs snd not sure if I should get the 66lbs don’t want to worry about bottoming out suspension
thank you for this video, my v12 recently started producing the same issue after a few low speed tumbles and I guess it's probably time to retighten those axle screws
{tl;dr. Purple Locktite} This is why I’d prefer to get the parts and assemble myself. That pre-dryed blue Locktite on the bolts is worthless. It’s got to be applied as a liquid so it can cure after assembly. Those blue dots on the bolts indicated that the bolts came with pre-applied thread locker, which is mechanically useless and it’s just virtue-signaling false security. Pre-cured Blue Locktite is practicing a lube; go ahead test the static friction with a old style torque wrench (where one can read the torque incr under tension. And none of the Locktite on any EUC should be RED (high heat), none should be BLUE (permanent, non-reusable) and all should be PURPLE (reusable without reapplication). Purple Locktite, I put that shit on almost everything that’s vulnerable to galvanic reaction, too! Also, less is more, two drops per inch of threads is plenty. Always chase the old blue Locktite off the threads, it can build up over time, which is another reason to use Purple. Kevin, you’re a wonderful mechanic and I love your work. A mechanical comparison of the Patton suspension with the Adventure system would be interesting. {My suspicion is that I’d prefer the Patton hydraulic cylinders installed on the Adventure chassis, if the Adventure upright hydraulics aren’t as high quality. FastAce shocks on the Adventure… Is it possible?}
Hi, have this problem with my Patton. I'm going to open up my wheel tomorrow and check it What's the correct way to apply the locktite? Just coat the thread then screw in?
Hello, I had the problem you showed with the patton. I took the whole wheel apart today to check for loose bolts. The 4 black motor bolts were very tight and i couldnt loosen them. The bracket/clamp bolts were a bit loose. I tightened them all and out locktite on them. Put the wheel together again and im still getting the noise/klunking sound 😔 Do you have any ideas what else it might be? Thanks
@@eucupgrades ye it's wrong. look at where water would be forced when you drive through a puddle. It is supposed to be forced away from the middle of the tyre, not towards it.
@@JonahHax yeah, tire rotation arrow should be in reverse as this is front moto tire, as on front of motorbike they always in reverse direction, to reduce vibrations. That rule does not apply to euc, as we have only one wheel - traction wheel, so tire should be mounted always as rear tire, does not matter how rotation arrow is pointing direction
love these type of videos. You could always learn more from from unbuilding the wheel, since there is only so much a reviewer can tell you.
Enjoying these quick insightful videos. Thank you.
if you bought from ewheels, your patton had its motor screws checked. Almost 1000 hard miles on mine it is still as solid as a hunk of steel.
Im having a hard time looking at other wheels.
Bought mine from eWheels and awaiting it in the mail. Latest batch so the full charge braking that bricks the wheel is solved. I’ve been told Veteran wheels are super reliable so I can’t wait! Had some issues with my V12.
@@gavinzoomscan I ask what suspension you went with ? I’m 165lbs snd not sure if I should get the 66lbs don’t want to worry about bottoming out suspension
@@fqqures1019 66 for sure. I’m 155 and it’s perfect. Nowhere near too stiff; it’s perfect and I wouldn’t want it any other way
Why is there no torque specs on these wheels? It just allows for even pressure over the wheel. Crazy.
Thanks for doing this video for us so helpful you're the best!!
thank you for this video, my v12 recently started producing the same issue after a few low speed tumbles and I guess it's probably time to retighten those axle screws
Great video. Where is your repair shop located in case I ever need help repair euc
Yep I had the same problem with my patton I bought from erides, loose motor bolts.. fixed with a bit of blue loctite.
The motor bolts bieng the black ones?
{tl;dr. Purple Locktite}
This is why I’d prefer to get the parts and assemble myself.
That pre-dryed blue Locktite on the bolts is worthless. It’s got to be applied as a liquid so it can cure after assembly. Those blue dots on the bolts indicated that the bolts came with pre-applied thread locker, which is mechanically useless and it’s just virtue-signaling false security. Pre-cured Blue Locktite is practicing a lube; go ahead test the static friction with a old style torque wrench (where one can read the torque incr under tension.
And none of the Locktite on any EUC should be RED (high heat), none should be BLUE (permanent, non-reusable) and all should be PURPLE (reusable without reapplication).
Purple Locktite, I put that shit on almost everything that’s vulnerable to galvanic reaction, too! Also, less is more, two drops per inch of threads is plenty.
Always chase the old blue Locktite off the threads, it can build up over time, which is another reason to use Purple.
Kevin, you’re a wonderful mechanic and I love your work. A mechanical comparison of the Patton suspension with the Adventure system would be interesting. {My suspicion is that I’d prefer the Patton hydraulic cylinders installed on the Adventure chassis, if the Adventure upright hydraulics aren’t as high quality. FastAce shocks on the Adventure… Is it possible?}
Hi, have this problem with my Patton.
I'm going to open up my wheel tomorrow and check it
What's the correct way to apply the locktite? Just coat the thread then screw in?
Hello,
I had the problem you showed with the patton.
I took the whole wheel apart today to check for loose bolts.
The 4 black motor bolts were very tight and i couldnt loosen them.
The bracket/clamp bolts were a bit loose.
I tightened them all and out locktite on them.
Put the wheel together again and im still getting the noise/klunking sound 😔
Do you have any ideas what else it might be?
Thanks
⚡⚡⚡
MY sherman clasic need Berings change after 4000Km and tighen Axle screw too. All done in once and switch to Heidenau K66
K66 tire is quite tight and a bit fiddly to fit.
@@eucupgrades 80/90 or 90/90?
80/90.@@milordas
All that blue loctite in them threads needs cleaned out before reinstalling the screws and you should clean it off of the screws threads also
and locktite should be aplied to the bolts, not the holes :)
Need torque spec
actually all Leaperkim riders will tell you that these EUC never have issues
You mounted the sherman tyre in the wrong direction..
It’s been mounted has a front tire not rear.
@@eucupgrades ye it's wrong. look at where water would be forced when you drive through a puddle. It is supposed to be forced away from the middle of the tyre, not towards it.
@@JonahHax yeah, tire rotation arrow should be in reverse as this is front moto tire, as on front of motorbike they always in reverse direction, to reduce vibrations. That rule does not apply to euc, as we have only one wheel - traction wheel, so tire should be mounted always as rear tire, does not matter how rotation arrow is pointing direction
why is the beeper not working? what is the fix?
It was a lose connection which the plug needed to push back in.
I do like to grease my motor bolts. But thats just me in mud puddles