Personally, I would add a bead of sealant between the window frame and the wood sill, to push the metal into. This will look nice for now, but wind-driven rail will get behind that metal and rot the exterior wood sill out. I have replaced many sills due to no sealant at that point. Also, I fold the metal down parallel to the sheathing, underneath the sill, so that you can kick water out on top of the siding, in the event that water is driven into that area. On the end folds, I fold the underside up instead of cutting it off, as that is another vulnerable area.
Thank so much; stumbling on this video saved me $$$ I hunted high and low trying to find a contractor who would install my retrofit window and coil wrap it at a reasonable price. Thanks to these guys I was able find some regular contractor to install my window and install the trim with the custom trim.
I wouldn’t cut off the bottom on the ends. Fold it up, fold back the front, and fold down the top. Otherwise, you have a crack where water can get into on the bottom corners of the sill.
Yeah, I would also recommend that. The bottom should fold in first, the front one second, and the top third. You would have to put caulk there for the water not to penetrate into the wood sill, and that doesn't look good on vinyl siding. In wouldn't make sense cutting the back piece off, because putting a aluminum sheath over the wood sill in the first place is to protect it from rotting, this decision would defeat the purpose. Amazing video, and I wouldn't have done it properly without it, it just needs a slight modification.
i am looking for an internal window sill the wall is brick painted inside and the window has no thingy round it i wanted to make a nice sill to put things on a make it look better it in a laundry so im not too worry about being fancy how would i attach it to the brick and concrete
What if the sill is multi-level? What I mean is, the sill has what appears the blind stop goes along the sill as well. Should the blind stop on the sill be cut out, or should the aluminum be bent to follow the profile?
if there is a blind stop running on the bottom along the sill I would remove it. typically there isn't a stop on the sill because water can become trapped behind it.
Do you suggest caulking? I understand caulking underneath does not make sense because rain flows down not up and condensation can escape from the bottom but what about the top edges of the aluminum trim?
Every part of the exterior of a house is like a roof. It must shed water. If it can do that it's good. Don't cheap out on the caulk. Butyl rubber or better yet urethane.
@mikesandytoes damn right the level of sarcasm was high...who the hell would put screens on the inside. i prefer drugs over manly hugs. but hey, thats just me.
i had new siding put on my house and they did not put any flashing on top of my window only the plastic paper with that silk tape next to my windows 🙈🙈🙈🙈
My house is over 100 years old. Replacing the sill would be a situation of one problem leading to another. This protects the old sill, looks good, and doesn't cause a cascade of problems that an old house has. Extremely helpful.
Not If your house is 100 years old you quite possibly have lead paint on the sill & jambs. If so then those would have to be demoed & replaced, then you wrap them in coil stock. It's not adequate if it's rotted or is lead paint. The window sill has to be covered I.E wrapped in aluminum coil stock. You can buy coil stock in a variety of colors.
Хобби
I have been looking for a video showing this for months. Thank you
This was an great video. Clear. Concise. Good audio level as well. Thank you!
Personally, I would add a bead of sealant between the window frame and the wood sill, to push the metal into. This will look nice for now, but wind-driven rail will get behind that metal and rot the exterior wood sill out. I have replaced many sills due to no sealant at that point.
Also, I fold the metal down parallel to the sheathing, underneath the sill, so that you can kick water out on top of the siding, in the event that water is driven into that area. On the end folds, I fold the underside up instead of cutting it off, as that is another vulnerable area.
Would be great if you posted a video showing your method. Thank you!
Thank so much; stumbling on this video saved me $$$ I hunted high and low trying to find a contractor who would install my retrofit window and coil wrap it at a reasonable price. Thanks to these guys I was able find some regular contractor to install my window and install the trim with the custom trim.
Should the video owner have a PayPal account for those who can share a little bit of that $AVING. Right?
I'm sure it came out beautiful too. LOL
@@Lu-cho No
How's it doing now, 7 years on?
@@ItchyKneeSon Going great!
Thank you! This is so much better than what I was going to do to my wooden sills...
very nice, great job very simple and to the point
Good video, simple and to the point.
Thanks for the video. Very well done and informative.
Very concise and clear video. Thank you
a 13 years old video and still rocking.
I agree fully. Hand-bent returns are the way to go.
Very helpful video thank you!
I wouldn’t cut off the bottom on the ends. Fold it up, fold back the front, and fold down the top. Otherwise, you have a crack where water can get into on the bottom corners of the sill.
Yeah, I would also recommend that. The bottom should fold in first, the front one second, and the top third. You would have to put caulk there for the water not to penetrate into the wood sill, and that doesn't look good on vinyl siding. In wouldn't make sense cutting the back piece off, because putting a aluminum sheath over the wood sill in the first place is to protect it from rotting, this decision would defeat the purpose.
Amazing video, and I wouldn't have done it properly without it, it just needs a slight modification.
Thank you!
great tutorial....
Hey thanks excellent video
Thank you for the video
Nice vid👍
Can you paint the flashing? Does it come in colors?
Should the aluminum not fit UNDER the storm window?
i am looking for an internal window sill the wall is brick painted inside and the window has no thingy round it i wanted to make a nice sill to put things on a make it look better it in a laundry so im not too worry about being fancy how would i attach it to the brick and concrete
Where to buy the material with the right shape? Or I should try to get a brake to fold by myself?
What if the sill is multi-level? What I mean is, the sill has what appears the blind stop goes along the sill as well. Should the blind stop on the sill be cut out, or should the aluminum be bent to follow the profile?
if there is a blind stop running on the bottom along the sill I would remove it. typically there isn't a stop on the sill because water can become trapped behind it.
You can add to the lower sill, fir it out with some thin wood.
Do you suggest caulking? I understand caulking underneath does not make sense because rain flows down not up and condensation can escape from the bottom but what about the top edges of the aluminum trim?
You definitely want a bead there to push the metal into. Read my comment for other tweaks that would be a good idea.
exterior or interior?
If I have a slight bit of rot on a few of my window sills can I just cover it, paint and caulk?
Every part of the exterior of a house is like a roof. It must shed water. If it can do that it's good. Don't cheap out on the caulk. Butyl rubber or better yet urethane.
So? No caulking the top of the sill where it meets the window? Wouldn't the water get under the aluminum?
I'd wait till you wrap the rest of it
Is this inside or outside?
I wouldn't cut so much!
I can just cut 1/4 of n inch or tops 3/8 ,slide it in there and seal it up
I dont wanna weaken anything but good trim tho
@mikesandytoes i dunno about you, but my screens are on the inside ;)
@mikesandytoes damn right the level of sarcasm was high...who the hell would put screens on the inside. i prefer drugs over manly hugs. but hey, thats just me.
Nice tool belt looks like same tool belt setup my hillbilly worker uses
Is that caping?
i had new siding put on my house and they did not put any flashing on top of my window only the plastic paper with that silk tape next to my windows 🙈🙈🙈🙈
Hand bent meaning hand bent with TONGS. Not tongues.
Why wud you need to sheath the sill of a window? Isn't the stock sill adequate? You could just as easy prime/paint the wood sill.
To avoid rot and ever having to paint again.
Or to cover badly weatherd wood.
My house is over 100 years old. Replacing the sill would be a situation of one problem leading to another. This protects the old sill, looks good, and doesn't cause a cascade of problems that an old house has. Extremely helpful.
Not If your house is 100 years old you quite possibly have lead paint on the sill & jambs. If so then those would have to be demoed & replaced, then you wrap them in coil stock. It's not adequate if it's rotted or is lead paint. The window sill has to be covered I.E wrapped in aluminum coil stock. You can buy coil stock in a variety of colors.
Why not pvc
jake leg...
if yor gonna post a vid like this you should be explaining what a brick mold is etc etc etc
rot spreads like wildfire. If you want to do it only once cut out the rot and replace
Absolutely Not!!! Or ur house is going to collapse!
if they know all construction terms maybe they dont need this fucking video