Yea I tried changing the sensors. Code still present, unfortunately volkswagen modules all have to be reprogrammed or rebuilt but thanks for the quick comment back I appreciate it
Hub mount triple square is10mm. Torque to 70Nm + 90 degrees - do not reuse. Driveshaft bolt is 24mm 12-point. Ball joint nuts are 16mm. Brake carrier is 21mm.
@@jesseosuna8647 all the new parts should be greased and sealed. Always check your other components for torn or worn boots and seals. Replace as needed.
Thank you for the informative. Do you always have to replace the rotor? Or can you just replace the bearings? Quite a bit cheaper as I won't have the car too much longer.
@@VoyageRC Thank you. A friend said I would probably need a press to separate the bearing from the rotor, but it looks like a hammer can do the trick? Thank you for your prompt reply.
Late reply for others that have trouble here. Mine were difficult to remove. I hammered in the triple square to the full depth of the bolt. I turned the steering to get an unobstructed turn with a breaker bar. Steady pressure, keep the socket in line with the bolt!
Do I have to replace the entire hub or can one just put in a new front bearing? It seems you can buy it ether way, but videos only talk about thew entire assembly - the bearing hub assembly in Canada seems to be about $400 while the bearing is between $75 and $140 (itself a confusing price difference). Thanks
@@VoyageRC Everyone has their personal preferences and possibilities of course. From your answer can I take it that it is possible without special tools to do what am asking? Thanks
@@VoyageRC OK, thanks. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Since you put up the video I assumed you were a knowledgable mechanic and would know that kind of thing. Cheers
So doing this very job on a 2011, everything was fairly easy until trying to get the hub assembly out of the carrier.... it's rust welded in place, the hub assembly fell apart from the beating... so I came here to see if there is a secret method.
old post i know. but i just beat mine out even thou i blew out the bearing lol. once i got a gap i used a chissel to work my way around the bearing untill it poped out
I dont know what i did wrong but you state at 11:10 torque the bearing mounting screws to 52lbs + 90 degree. my instructions from manufacture said the same thing. 2 months later i hear and awful grind. the entire srew backed out and was rubbing on the steel back of my cv joint. It was a nightmare. i was far upnorth here in ontario an sunday no garages. Only thing saved my ass is that my reason for being up there was to visit an uncle and i was 10 min out when i left his place to go home so i limped it back. going to undo it all and re torque them. the top two are hard to get to with cv drive in.
Did a ultra rusty 2008 rabbit 2.5 in just over an hour including smoke break on jack stands. Done a few mk5's like this, never had to undo the ball joints. With the suspension fully relaxed, just turned the steering wheel fully to access the 12mm tripple square hub mounting bolts.
I have a set that has a 8, 10, 12, and 14. It covers just about everything I need. There is also a link in the description to a good set that will have you covered.
Great detailed video! How similar do you think this process is as compared to a 2013 VW Beetle Turbo? Can't find anything specific but what you're showing here looks very similar to what I'm seeing when I remove the wheel. Thanks.
I replaced my hubs as well but the ABS, traction control and tire pressure lights came on. Scanner said it was the speed sensors so I replaced them but the warning lights came back. Let me know if you have the same issue, great video 👍
Thanks! I had no issues after putting the new sensor in. It might just need time to reset itself to the new sensor (driven a certain amount of miles) Hopefully it solves itself.
@jorgino1007 never answered with the solution. I damaged a sensor. ABS, headlight, airbag, and TPMS warning lights came up. They all went away when I replaced the sensor. I didn't need a scan tool.
I like your video but don't like the fact that this job will be much tougher than I imagined. I think I'll get a bid but it will probably motivate me to do it myself. It was so much easier on my Chevy truck. LOL
9:16 ...you skipped the entire part that I really wanted to see! Since everyone else just shows it practically falling out of the knuckle, I wanted to see if there's a trick to freeing it up (other than just relentlessly beating on it). P.S. - My VW lives in the rust belt... which makes maintenance LOADS of fun!
@@charlesdale1462 yup... But I don't have a hot air gun... Plus there's lots of plastic and rubber near the hub. 🤷 2 hours of hammering did the "trick".
Were you concerned with damaging any of the surrounding parts? I’ll be doing this next week and the knuckle is caked in rust. Hoping to avoid any…collateral damage
Dont forget to wear your safety goggles and a mask when dealing with chemicals and rust removal.
Why did you remove the ABS sensor?
Can you put anti sieze on the inside where you said it was metal to metal contact?
What size is the socket of the axel nut
Stock axle nut should be a 12 point 24mm
What’s the size of the big center bolt? I bought a 24mm and it was too small. I’m working on a 2017 TTS but can’t find this bolt size.
Does this apply to a 2016 VW Jetta S ?
@@SPMecano it should, they haven’t changed much over the years.
Ever tried removing the carrier with the prop shaft in place ? Slide hammer ?
I havnt tried it that way.
Could've just undone the caliper bracket with the caliper still attached
Yep unless he hadnt looked at the slide pins for a quick min and wanted to, other wise the flat rater would just take the bracket bolts off
Amazing vid. wish you gave tip on removing axle but other than that, perfect instructions
Yup, that bolts a pain. Break it loose with the car on the ground, just don’t remove it until the vehicle is in the air.
Would bad bearings throw a abs module/pump code? 2014 jetta tdi
this could happen if there is an issue with the wheel speed sensor, which is mounted in the hub assembly
Yea I tried changing the sensors. Code still present, unfortunately volkswagen modules all have to be reprogrammed or rebuilt but thanks for the quick comment back I appreciate it
Sorry if I missed it, but what size sockets were used for each bolt removal? What size triple square? What were the torque specs?
Hub mount triple square is10mm. Torque to 70Nm + 90 degrees - do not reuse.
Driveshaft bolt is 24mm 12-point. Ball joint nuts are 16mm. Brake carrier is 21mm.
Im assuming that was a torx screw holding the rotor on?
@@CoolFuzion yes
So how do you properly apply the torque specs??
Torque wrench
What kind of socket did you use for the axle bolt
A 24mm 12 point. There is a link to one in the video description.
Thank you! And then it’s not possible to just re use the bolts, because the hun and bearing assembly from my parts store doesn’t carry those
@@jesseosuna8647 always recommended to replace those bolts
Do I need to grease anything
@@jesseosuna8647 all the new parts should be greased and sealed. Always check your other components for torn or worn boots and seals. Replace as needed.
Thank you for the informative. Do you always have to replace the rotor? Or can you just replace the bearings? Quite a bit cheaper as I won't have the car too much longer.
Easier to replace the whole unit. Not necessary though.
@@VoyageRC Thank you. A friend said I would probably need a press to separate the bearing from the rotor, but it looks like a hammer can do the trick?
Thank you for your prompt reply.
@@avogoofy5130 your friend is right
What the size of the triple square socket at 1:10
There is a link in the description for the axle but socket.
Is the torque specs the same for the mk6 for sure? ( 2017 jetta 1.4l)
Should be…
Okay thank you!! Cause I can't seem to fond the specs anywhere lol
What's the name of the song playing
"Arms Dealer" by Anno Domini Beats
Good job 👍
Thank you 🙏🏻
Is this the same procedure on a 2013 vw cc
It appears to be the same part number for the bearing/hub assembly. I would imagine the process is very similar, if not the same.
What size are the triple square bolts on the hub
I want to say 12 off the top of my head. I’ll have to double check.
@@VoyageRC any recommendation when those bolts are somewhat stuck?
Late reply for others that have trouble here. Mine were difficult to remove. I hammered in the triple square to the full depth of the bolt. I turned the steering to get an unobstructed turn with a breaker bar. Steady pressure, keep the socket in line with the bolt!
What size triple square bolts are they?
I have a socket set with 8, 10, 12, and 14mm that covers everything. 10 and 12 are the most common on the vehicle.
hello there one question : do you need a 4 wheel alignment after you done all of it . thanks I appreciate your help
An alignment is recommended after any suspension work.
@@VoyageRC okay and thats included the replacement of tiguan wheel bearing assembly hub ?
@@arniereyes4426 since you have to disassemble the suspension to change it, yes
@@VoyageRC thank you....., I thought you only do the alignment if you touch tie rod . thanks again
Do I have to replace the entire hub or can one just put in a new front bearing? It seems you can buy it ether way, but videos only talk about thew entire assembly - the bearing hub assembly in Canada seems to be about $400 while the bearing is between $75 and $140 (itself a confusing price difference).
Thanks
I would personally rather pay the difference for the assembled hub.
@@VoyageRC Everyone has their personal preferences and possibilities of course. From your answer can I take it that it is possible without special tools to do what am asking?
Thanks
@@gerrys6265 honestly, I havnt looked into it. You would probably need a press to insert the new bearings.
@@VoyageRC OK, thanks. Sorry for my misunderstanding. Since you put up the video I assumed you were a knowledgable mechanic and would know that kind of thing. Cheers
@@gerrys6265 I work on my own vehicles. I don’t know if I should take offense to that or not 🤣 -Cheers
Great video man!
🙏🏻
So doing this very job on a 2011, everything was fairly easy until trying to get the hub assembly out of the carrier.... it's rust welded in place, the hub assembly fell apart from the beating... so I came here to see if there is a secret method.
Rust is a tricky business. Soak it in some wd40 to help free it up. You might have to get the torch out too. Or just get a new carrier assembly...
old post i know. but i just beat mine out even thou i blew out the bearing lol. once i got a gap i used a chissel to work my way around the bearing untill it poped out
Great job
I dont know what i did wrong but you state at 11:10 torque the bearing mounting screws to 52lbs + 90 degree. my instructions from manufacture said the same thing. 2 months later i hear and awful grind. the entire srew backed out and was rubbing on the steel back of my cv joint. It was a nightmare. i was far upnorth here in ontario an sunday no garages. Only thing saved my ass is that my reason for being up there was to visit an uncle and i was 10 min out when i left his place to go home so i limped it back. going to undo it all and re torque them. the top two are hard to get to with cv drive in.
Did a ultra rusty 2008 rabbit 2.5 in just over an hour including smoke break on jack stands. Done a few mk5's like this, never had to undo the ball joints. With the suspension fully relaxed, just turned the steering wheel fully to access the 12mm tripple square hub mounting bolts.
Just makes it a little easier 👍🏻
Hi Mate. Im in the UK. What size are the triple square heads. Just to make sure I order the right ones
I have a set that has a 8, 10, 12, and 14. It covers just about everything I need. There is also a link in the description to a good set that will have you covered.
Great detailed video! How similar do you think this process is as compared to a 2013 VW Beetle Turbo? Can't find anything specific but what you're showing here looks very similar to what I'm seeing when I remove the wheel. Thanks.
I would imagine it’s very similar. Thank you 🙏🏻
I'm assuming this is the same concept for all the VW? I have an 18 atlas and imma replac it. What size tools did you use
Banging video, nice one
Same as a 2014 Jetta gli ?
The ABS sensors are very hard to remote and almost always you will crack it and just get a new one. They are only $20. But great video!!
Why is it necessary to remove the sensor? It does not appear to be in the way of anything.
@@crunch805its not necessary
I replaced my hubs as well but the ABS, traction control and tire pressure lights came on. Scanner said it was the speed sensors so I replaced them but the warning lights came back. Let me know if you have the same issue, great video 👍
Thanks! I had no issues after putting the new sensor in. It might just need time to reset itself to the new sensor (driven a certain amount of miles) Hopefully it solves itself.
did u figure it out el jorgino
Jorgino I would reset the ABS fault codes if you have access to VCDS tool.
@jorgino1007 never answered with the solution. I damaged a sensor. ABS, headlight, airbag, and TPMS warning lights came up. They all went away when I replaced the sensor. I didn't need a scan tool.
Do bad front wheel bearings make a grinding sound when slowly down or turning ?
They can if they are real bad. You would also want to check your axles. Most of the time a bad wheel bearing will whine at speed.
@@VoyageRC it’s most likely the brakes it’s not real bad but annoying
@@VoyageRC well fuck if it’s the axles might as well sell the thing lol
@@TingR89 your right, probably brakes
You didnt show the puller and removing the axle. Did you not need a puller?
With the axle bolt removed it should slide right out, unless it’s seized from rust. I didn’t need a puller. My process is shown in the video.
I like your video but don't like the fact that this job will be much tougher than I imagined. I think I'll get a bid but it will probably motivate me to do it myself. It was so much easier on my Chevy truck. LOL
What year vw's does this apply to?
Music is very annoying.
not sure why ya played with abs sensor ya don't have to remove it to do this job
I believe just unplugged would been good.
Background music too loud. Had to go to different site
@@stanpoole ok 👍🏻
9:16 ...you skipped the entire part that I really wanted to see!
Since everyone else just shows it practically falling out of the knuckle, I wanted to see if there's a trick to freeing it up (other than just relentlessly beating on it).
P.S. - My VW lives in the rust belt... which makes maintenance LOADS of fun!
Unfortunately there is not an “easy” way to do it. I wish there was a special tool or trick to make it easy. Rust sucks. WD-40 and patience
@@VoyageRC... Lol.... I only have one of those, and the can of WD-40 is nearly empty! 🤷
Hot air gun. As much heat as you dare. Use heat shield to protect rubber parts etc. Freeze spray paid onto hot parts. Keep fire extinguisher handy!
@@charlesdale1462 yup... But I don't have a hot air gun... Plus there's lots of plastic and rubber near the hub. 🤷
2 hours of hammering did the "trick".
Were you concerned with damaging any of the surrounding parts? I’ll be doing this next week and the knuckle is caked in rust. Hoping to avoid any…collateral damage
What is the point of the music?
You should turbo charge
Nah, these sound to good NA
Little anti zeize goes a long way
Yeah, don't hammer on the bearing like that, you will dimple the raceway.
It was a soft blow rubber mallet.
Should do rotors and pads since you are there already….
“While I’m in there I might as well…” It is the perfect time to do it if needed.
52
That background muzak is annoying as hell.
MUSIC
@@VoyageRC Funny. Good reply.
What size is the socket
For?
Hub
What side is the hub bolt