Great video! I didn’t realize that GTI wheel bearings can be replaced so easily, I assumed one would need to press them in. Also appreciate that the mechanic did the entire process without power tools, makes it seem much more doable us casual DIYers.
Good video. Very insightful. Not to sound like a know it all however, in the name of saving time...you can access the hub assembly bolts without removing the lower control by pushing the axle in and turning the wheel to each side and removing two bolts at a time. Also if you remove the rotor set screw and the caliper bracket bolts only you can remove the rotor with caliper in tact and just put it safely to the side further saving some time. Thank you for the tutorial. 😎
Man I have just been fighting my axle for like 2 hours and came in for the night. Found this video and your comment. I will be trying this first thing tomorrow after I figure out how I'm gonna get my freakin control arm back on. Lol Thank you stranger.
The torque spec on those hub bearing bolts is 70Nm+90deg, which also means they are torque to yield and are required replacement each time they are removed.
Couldn't help but notice that when you reassembled, you started with the old ball joint and lower control arm and the next shot showed a new ball joint and control arm. Nice video.
Great vids as usual! However, I'm curious as to why you couldn't install the brake caliper before tightening the hub nut? As to not take the wheel off again.
the problem is the center cap needs to be popped off from the inside with the wheel off. Be great if you can figure out how to pop it off w/o removing the wheel.
60Nm. Message me your email if you'd like the Quick Reference Specification Book (PDF format, 276 pages). The document is for the 2013 VW Golf and VW GTI, but I'm certain it applies to all Golfs and GTIs from 2010 to 2014 (produced for the US market).
The easier way to replace the wheel bearings completely imo, since I just did it. Is to take off the entire knuckle with the bearings still on it. If the bearings are shot, the knuckle has already has rust and wear. The whole knuckle replacement is a lot easier when the bearings are completely stuck on.
I installed a new bearing. During the process of installation I hit the bearing several times with the hammer. Actually I hammered the hub (with a plastic hammer though) it almost in 1/3, then used press, but didn't know I need to use a lip on the bottom. The center of the bearing came off on the bottom like for 1 mm. I placed the lip and made it even again with the hammer. The hub is rotating very good, but gives a slight grinding noise, not like the other one I replaced before, which rotates with more efforts, but doesn't make any sound. Should I replace that bearing with the slight grinding sound? Probably I shouldn't hammer it that much (though with the soft hammer). Thank you for the informative film.
You guys have “Fun” if u have to take it back apart. Do you keep your “easy” out screw extractors beside your loctite collection? Do you put loctite on your lug nuts? I don’t use loctite unless there’s strong emphasis for it. I use antiseize compound &/or grease on threads, bare metal & such that I Know is going to corrode, rust & seize up otherwise. The correct torque is supposed to hold parts together NOT rust. If those 4 big bolts torqued w/ 50ft Lbs comes loose; something AIN’T right. You’d think the factory used loctite on my original wheel bearing, & really they did: RUST, & it was hell to get apart. Same for electrical connections: dielectric grease.
The vinyl work gloves you are wearing. What brand and where can we purchase them. I customarily grab an 8 back of blue latex gloves from the local Dollar Tree but those gloves are not durable. Yet, the glove you're wearing seem very durable: no ripping or tearing
Can anybody double check a few of the torque specs, especially the axle bolt? I don't have a manual yet, & I'm hearing different torque specs for a few of these.
Yes! I'm pretty sure the axle bolt and torx bolt values were accidentally given in reverse order. According to a shop manual for my specific year and model, axle bolt is 180 Nm plus an additional 180 degrees turn. Hub bolt should be 30 Nm plus 90 degrees more. l believe one other commenter mentioned stripping a torx bolt. 😬 ouch! And, I'm no mechanic, but I suspect an under-torqued axle bolt can lead to ABS and ESC issues (via improper readings from the ABS speed sensor) Otherwise, a very helpful and well explained video.
+George B At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task, this will be for the 2006-2013 A3.
Great video. Thank you. One remark. If one wants to reuse bearing it can be loosen only a quater turn when car is on wheels. If not it will reduce bearing lifetime.
+ph10wed Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Boywonderr71
I just stripped one of those 4 torx bolts. Be careful when undoing those guys. My only option is to hack at it with the angle grinder I'm guessing. Shouldn't be too much of a problem..
You torqued everything improperly as you didn't include the angle. Values didn't sound right either. 16Nm for the nuts? 50ft-lb for the axle bolt??? When I did this job on a 2017 it was 200Nm + 180°
Why would you remove the caliper from the caliper bracket, unless you were purposely wasting time? You do so many unnecessary steps, it's like you are trying to justify the overinflated labor prices mechanics charge.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
thank you so much! 6 years later you're still helping backyard mechanics!
So happy that content on the internet like this exist. Saves me so much money.
Great video! I didn’t realize that GTI wheel bearings can be replaced so easily, I assumed one would need to press them in. Also appreciate that the mechanic did the entire process without power tools, makes it seem much more doable us casual DIYers.
+tedjohnson64 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Good video. Very insightful. Not to sound like a know it all however, in the name of saving time...you can access the hub assembly bolts without removing the lower control by pushing the axle in and turning the wheel to each side and removing two bolts at a time. Also if you remove the rotor set screw and the caliper bracket bolts only you can remove the rotor with caliper in tact and just put it safely to the side further saving some time. Thank you for the tutorial. 😎
Man I have just been fighting my axle for like 2 hours and came in for the night. Found this video and your comment. I will be trying this first thing tomorrow after I figure out how I'm gonna get my freakin control arm back on. Lol Thank you stranger.
I'd like to second the "Thank you stranger". Great extra info and your humility is on point. 'Preciate it.
@@official13dvls_broknlnk_16 Your last sentence made a different stranger smile. Nice one dude.
The torque spec on those hub bearing bolts is 70Nm+90deg, which also means they are torque to yield and are required replacement each time they are removed.
Much better explanation than the other 1a Auto video on the same vehicle. Thanks.
Thanks for watching! +Fred Dubose
I really liked the way he did and explained everything, very well done.
Couldn't help but notice that when you reassembled, you started with the old ball joint and lower control arm and the next shot showed a new ball joint and control arm. Nice video.
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +ltmedic3
Great video very helpful and explaining well + doing it slowly and the background music isn't loud and annoying like other videos thanks!
Thank you guys, this was a fantastic walk-through. ESPECIALLY considering its a free video. Much obliged!
Thanks for watching!
Great vids as usual! However, I'm curious as to why you couldn't install the brake caliper before tightening the hub nut? As to not take the wheel off again.
Good video, you're like the Bob Ross of wheel bearings.
+Brian Hawthorne Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Yeah lmao the way he explained everything was so calm definitely reminded me of Bob Ross
Does this replacement bearing assembly come with the 4 torque to yield fasteners for the hub and the axle shaft bolt. Also torque to yield?
Very professional explanation . An old machinist here. Thanks
15:58-15:59 did you guys swap control arms? It looks road-worn one second and then shiny and lacking the bump the next.
Is that a standard 24 mm socket for the drive shaft bolt,or is it a special type of socket needed
Would you be able to break the axle bolt loose before you jacked up the car for the first time, rather than after removing the caliper?
the problem is the center cap needs to be popped off from the inside with the wheel off. Be great if you can figure out how to pop it off w/o removing the wheel.
You could if you don't mind destroying your centre cap. Pry it out with a screwdriver
Did u say 16 or 60 newton meters for the 3 ball joint nuts??? I listened several times & can't quite tell, 16 seems too low.
60Nm.
Message me your email if you'd like the Quick Reference Specification Book (PDF format, 276 pages). The document is for the 2013 VW Golf and VW GTI, but I'm certain it applies to all Golfs and GTIs from 2010 to 2014 (produced for the US market).
hahahah I think he has been confusing the lb and N lol 16N would be 50lb.
Dziri I’d love the quick reference guide. I have a 2011 and 2012 Jetta. Thank you.
I wondered that too, but I thought 60 was if it was cast steel - which that did not look 🤷🏻♂️, if sheet steel or aluminum then 100 NM
The easier way to replace the wheel bearings completely imo, since I just did it. Is to take off the entire knuckle with the bearings still on it. If the bearings are shot, the knuckle has already has rust and wear. The whole knuckle replacement is a lot easier when the bearings are completely stuck on.
I installed a new bearing. During the process of installation I hit the bearing several times with the hammer. Actually I hammered the hub (with a plastic hammer though) it almost in 1/3, then used press, but didn't know I need to use a lip on the bottom. The center of the bearing came off on the bottom like for 1 mm. I placed the lip and made it even again with the hammer. The hub is rotating very good, but gives a slight grinding noise, not like the other one I replaced before, which rotates with more efforts, but doesn't make any sound. Should I replace that bearing with the slight grinding sound? Probably I shouldn't hammer it that much (though with the soft hammer). Thank you for the informative film.
On the other videos doing this replacement, they put Locktite on the bolts holding the Hub in place, but you used the opposite.. never seize..?
yah I think I'd put on some Blue Loctite instead of anti-seize !!
You guys have “Fun” if u have to take it back apart. Do you keep your “easy” out screw extractors beside your loctite collection? Do you put loctite on your lug nuts? I don’t use loctite unless there’s strong emphasis for it. I use antiseize compound &/or grease on threads, bare metal & such that I Know is going to corrode, rust & seize up otherwise. The correct torque is supposed to hold parts together NOT rust. If those 4 big bolts torqued w/ 50ft Lbs comes loose; something AIN’T right. You’d think the factory used loctite on my original wheel bearing, & really they did: RUST, & it was hell to get apart. Same for electrical connections: dielectric grease.
The vinyl work gloves you are wearing. What brand and where can we purchase them. I customarily grab an 8 back of blue latex gloves from the local Dollar Tree but those gloves are not durable. Yet, the glove you're wearing seem very durable: no ripping or tearing
They are called black mamba gloves very good
Just 50 ft lbs for the axle nut torque?
Yeah, his torque numbers are way off. I had to go elsewhere to find the right ones. It’s 148 lbs ft for the axle bolt plus 180 degrees.
Are 1AAuto's parts manufactured to the same standards as OEM?
Can the axle pop out of the other end, once you remove it from the bearing?
15:59 Brand New Control Arm appears.
I thought the bearing bolts and CV axle bolt were one-time use torque to yield items, was I misreading?
They are abs I believe the axle bolt torque spec is about 3x what he said
Thank you! This video was extremely informative. Much appreciated!
Can anybody double check a few of the torque specs, especially the axle bolt? I don't have a manual yet, & I'm hearing different torque specs for a few of these.
Yes!
I'm pretty sure the axle bolt and torx bolt values were accidentally given in reverse order.
According to a shop manual for my specific year and model, axle bolt is 180 Nm plus an additional 180 degrees turn. Hub bolt should be 30 Nm plus 90 degrees more.
l believe one other commenter mentioned stripping a torx bolt. 😬 ouch!
And, I'm no mechanic, but I suspect an under-torqued axle bolt can lead to ABS and ESC issues (via improper readings from the ABS speed sensor)
Otherwise, a very helpful and well explained video.
I wish all of them are this easy when I get one like this it's fast money the press in type is fairly fast as long as it's not siezed in
What the tongue specs for the cv axle bolt?
Late to the party but what is the cv axle 12 point bolt size? It just seemed to dissapear at 10 min ish in
24mm
do you know if , for audi a3 8v its the similar process ? or at least the nuts and bolts are the same size
+George B At this moment, the closest how-to video we have to your request is for this vehicle, which is very similar to the one you have. The steps may not be 100% the same, but should contain an adequate amount of information necessary for accomplishing this task, this will be for the 2006-2013 A3.
@@1AAuto Τhank you, very helpful your upload
Great video. Thank you. One remark. If one wants to reuse bearing it can be loosen only a quater turn when car is on wheels. If not it will reduce bearing lifetime.
+gienol Thanks for checking us out!
excellent as always .... you guys have the best video's
Hello,
Thank you so much for your feedback! We are very proud of our video library!
+Dennis
Awesome video. I wish I had the space in my garage to do this as I would save $1500.00
Very helpful, about to do a front rebuild 👍🏻
+ph10wed Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
wish you would give both torque values, nm and ft lbs
Will this video apply to a 2012 vw gti?
+TYLER GILLET This video will be the same installation process.
lol can u read bruh
Thx 4 this! Helped tremendously
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Boywonderr71
What are the tools that you need exactly im new to working on my car and im not very savvy
+ClaimFrost The tool list is shown in the beginning of the video for your reference! 1aauto.com
52ft pounds on Main bearing bolt PLUS 180 degree is correct
I just stripped one of those 4 torx bolts. Be careful when undoing those guys. My only option is to hack at it with the angle grinder I'm guessing. Shouldn't be too much of a problem..
What if all bearing would be that easy to remove and install. Today i had a rear wheel bearing replacement on a Dacia Duster. It wasn´t that fun...
+Skyisnotalimit Thanks for checking us out!
Is he in slow MO?
Wouldn’t it be easier to take the caliper off complete
Greetings, you can skip removing the control arm bolts. I just did mine. Probably saved 15 minutes.
Thank you
You torqued everything improperly as you didn't include the angle. Values didn't sound right either. 16Nm for the nuts? 50ft-lb for the axle bolt??? When I did this job on a 2017 it was 200Nm + 180°
Volkswagen GTI? Did you mean Golf GTI? I have a Polo GTI 9n3 (2007) and it seems to be very different.
This is a 2010 VW GTI. The process may be different on your specific vehicle. Thanks for watching. +dumbuser
You have to change that entire thing? What happened to just pushing in a new bearing
he said in the video that it comes as an assemby. personaly i prefer not to press in new bearings. this is much better.
The part costs more, but it’s dramatically easier to replace. Not having to remove the knuckle to fight with a press makes these jobs go a lot faster.
Ok not make a video with seized bolts and you have to drill them out on a press ......
Why would you remove the caliper from the caliper bracket, unless you were purposely wasting time? You do so many unnecessary steps, it's like you are trying to justify the overinflated labor prices mechanics charge.
Looks like he installed new rotor and pads as well as a new hub assembly. Video should have been titled as such.
My GTI has 42k miles and I already replaced 2 of those, axel and water pump.. Volkswagen is garbage
That sounds like more of you beating the absolute snot out of it and blaming the manufacturer for your poor care for the car
Mine has 89k and just now needed new bearings. Nothing else wrong with it. I think you’re abusing your car.