I’ve been watching your videos for a few years now and you’ve pretty much taught me everything I know about car audio and becoming a better installer I always appreciate your help
We need someone like you in Tampa FL that knows what he is doing. Consumers just want it done right especially when you dont know any of these local shops that you can trust.
I bought these pods as well and the brackets for the sound bar. I too put sound deadner inside and poly fill. Also, I placed sound deadener in the sound bar as well as poly fill. I used 6.5 kickers for the front, (components) and 6.5 actual kicker midrange speakers. The front pods, as for the wiring, I used the same rubber piece from the back. using an exacto knife, I split it in half, like a taco, (LOL!) exposing the wiring. I carved out the wiring and used the new wires, wrapped in the rubber piece for the speakers. Still maintained a tight fit. Mark, I love your videos. I actually made a bracket similar to the one you made for the white wrangler. It’s not as sexy as yours but, it came out nice. Thank you for all the ideas!
Only $2,200.00 3 way components and you must use an active crossover with a dsp like JL audio’s VX800/8I or VX600/6I with there built in DSP in the amplifier and man do they sound amazing together
Looks great Mark. Wish I had the time to do that level of detail to my system. My car is older and has many worn, loose and rattling panels. I video on how you'd repair/treat this type would be cool to see. Keeping future serviceability in mind, how would you sound treat an older car? A system like 4 channels and one sub. Total system power of about 1500w rms.
Again! I've learned so much over the year since I found you 😃 2015 VW beetle has a nice size pod for the rear 6.5 speakers which are in the side. I did all that but the wires like you did. No filler because of the size of the pods. Very nice sound. Tight bass. Not boomy like the front doors. Makes a nice blend to me
Mark Hi, I, too, have a 23 Jeep Wrangler and bought these pods as part of my system upgrade. I left the factory radio in and added: PAC Pro CH1 Low to high adaptor running digital optical out -> JL D8 - Analog out ->Alpine HDA-V90 amp-> Focal PXE PS 165 3 way set up. My question is did you experience any resonance or mechanical noise from the 6.5's you installed? I treated the pods with spray in noise damping liquid, then cover the pods inside and outside with Dynamat door kit noise damping. Any suggestions on how to solve the unwanted and distracting noise? I also swapped the 6.5's out which helped a little, but the noise is still there.
Thanks for these. I'm building custom pods to give my truck a complete revamp audio wise but make it appear like it has a factory system. Will end up being an 11 speaker system but be hidden and only the new stereo will stand out. Wouldnt be able to do this at the quality I can without your help.
Thank you very much for this video!!! I did almost everything as you suggested, put sound isolating materials, put silicon gasget seal on the inside of the connection part of the pods . Closed the additional speaker mount holes with the gasket seal and the sound deadening material from inside that overlapped the connection seam but I am so disappointed how it ended up sounding. I put 100W Polk components and I am not sure if the speaker is garbage or the pods or both! I have to basically use the speaker with High pass filter otherwise there is a terrible rattle sound. Speaker itself has many holes and these holes are very close to the woofer's rubber and it's leaking air from there. Will a wooden adapter ring under the speaker solve that issue? Also, I used the rubber part from the the stock box to seal the wire hole, it sat pretty good to be honest but I'm not sure if that was a deal breaker? I'm planning to make mdf adapters and give it a one more go but maaan! it took sooooo much time to remove all the garbage parts to reach to the speaker pods -it is so discouraging to take another go on this. I regret it so much to waste so much time to end up with a terrible sound which is not any better than the factory garbage speakers. I wish I went with the 3 1/2 speakers... Do your pods rattle with a decent bass (not a lot)? Would you recommend getting 3 1/2 instead of 100W Polks? Maybe it is too much for a little pod but anyways I wasn't expecting earth shattering sound - all I wanted to have clean mid bass. Would love to hear your thoughts on how your pods sound after the install, do you have a review video? Any insight would be appreciated! Thank you!
Does it make a difference if I apply the sound deadening to the inside of the pod vs the outside? In my case that would save a LOT of time and effort since the pods are rather big and long :D Thanks for any advice👌
Always great videos and info. I'm about to build an inwall subwoofer that fits between two studs 16 on center that fill about 80% of the wall cavity. Do I need Acoustic batting for this? The depth of the sub is about 3" and a height of about 70"? Also, what's the best way to design the interior of this type of sub? The sub will be closed and not ported.
Hey Mark , Attempting to do this build coming up . You referred the plastic circles you used to close the pods and said you cut them on the lazer. What would be alternative to close those pods since I don't own a Lazer ? Any ideas at all would be awesome.
Would you put the jl audio c7 6 inch speakers in those pods and in the soundbar with the c7 tweeters in the dash? Also with a pair of jl audio stealth boxes. Thanks.
Are there any manufacturers that make those kind of pods. Seems like a universal pod that was CA glued to a universal speaker adapter. Is that a thing?
I REALLY hope you angle the speakers in the dash away from the windshield. With the angle the glass it at it isn't going to reflect very much sound towards your ears, it's gonna go above your head and hit the ceiling (it might be good for people in the rear tho lol) - You should REALLY think about adding some rings around the mid and tweeter to angle them a few degrees. Yea it wont be a direct aim towards your ears, but it will do A LOT more than them just laying flat. PLUS this will make them MUCH more visible and look VERY PROFERSSIONAL - I hope you do this (and tht you haven't finished the build already and it's not too late for me to be making suggestions) - No matter, YOU are the professional here, so you know best :) THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!! :D
Great video.would you make them hole plugs with the wire adapter .to sell to your RUclips's.would def.need that.I have the same kit metra 2020 wrangler jl.thanx with the great content oh yeah what speaker model is that
You are awesome but you know dang good and well that you cut off those tabs the most time consuming way possible 😂 FYI I used info learned from you to make custom center caps for the wheels on my truck
To get better lows, it may be a good idea to add some mass onto the cone, in the form of washers or something. You'll be less efficient, but it'll lower the resonant frequency.
@@A6Legit yeah, it's just really hard to get lows out of small subs, because they tend to have very high efficiency bandwidth products. Honestly a 6th order bandpass may be your best option
@@blakebrockhaus347 This is a seriously low power project just for the hell of it. I dont want to do 6th order because theyre 2 way speakers and i want to hear the tweets. The amp im using is not even powering them at RMS. Ive only heard them free air but it plays decent lows. 31-16khz. I just wanted something that will help a midrange hit some lows. Im leaning towards 4th order because tline seems like overkill and would have to be a huge box.
Mark, really out of curiosity due to me having 'made my existing mid-woofer enclosures work', what are the ones you use in this video called exactly? I just looked on Crutchfield' website for my 07 Wrangler and they don't show anything like those.
@Jeff Pessemier As Mark said, it sets faster because it "Activates" the CA glue. The Activator basically adds moisture to the glue which makes it set up fast. You can do the same with a fine mist of water, or use common baking soda to fill larger gaps...the baking soda absorbs moisture from the air so it "Activates" the CA glue as well filling gaps. In this specific scenario, I would probably use a thicker "Gel type" CA glue. You can buy it in various viscosities.
So good video, though realistically speaking, how many installers will actually take time to use a router to make a perfect circle when you can just take pliers and snap off those tabs really cleanly anyways..... I like the modular plug design! I would definitely use the wrap it in my shop:)
The full build is detailed here: ruclips.net/video/YtI7EMNim_M/видео.htmlfeature=shared If you need help picking speakers for a different application I can assist here: www.caraudiofabrication.com/consultations
One correction...the closed cell foam has absolutely no acoustic dampening properties; it is an isolation barrier only (something vibrating and making noise by against the CLD).
Agreed. The "damping" material needs to be at least 1/4 of the thickness of the actual wavelength of the frequency before it will start to "damp" or absorb that frequency noticeably. So in this case it *might* start to damp/absorb frequencies that are 15kHz and above, which 6.5" car audio midwoofers will not even be playing, LOL. For reference, 20kHz has a wavelength of 0.66 inches.
I never said it did. I worked for a tier one OEM supplier for several years that produced sound treatment materials. I fully understand how each works.
@@CarAudioFabrication Well Mark, you also didn't state that the thin CCF *doesn't* affect acoustic performance in that way, so... ;-) You might know that, but lots of people are mislead by this or don't understand unless it's explicitly stated, so we were just chiming in for those who might be less informed. ;-) Carry on with your good work, sir. 👍
CarAudioFabrication I am sure you do based on the quality of your work. It is referred to on the product as "acoustic foam"; 5:30. You simply read it back in the video. Your sound treatment of the pos is excellent.
@@CarAudioFabrication sounds like they need their own channel 🤣 After a year of watching him. He's NEVER given me false or incorrect information. If he did, my car would of burnt down by now. Trolling to try to make you seem like you don't know what you're doing. Really?
Hello sir, i have a stressful question here, my subwoofer Pioneer TS w-3003D4 has an FS rating of 35Hz is it safe if I tune the cab below the Resonance frequency (FS) rating like 28Hz? will I harm my subwoofer? I have read soo many contents online but there is no precise answer though the sub has a handling frequency rating of 20 to 80Hz. Kindly help
It depends on if the speaker's Theile/Small parameters are suitable for a small sealed enclosure or not. Most 6.5" car audio component set midwoofers are designed with a higher Qts spec for the open or "Free Air/Infinite Baffle" environment of a typical car door. An excellent car audio midwoofer that will work well in a somewhat small sealed enclosure as well is the Audiofrog GB60 6.5". The advantage of a sealed "door pod" is that much less vibration & resonance will be transferred to the door cavity and door panel (if it's built and installed properly).
@Gary Priest Maybe do more research next time and buy speakers that will fit without this issue? It's a common issue, and Online retailers such as Crutchfield have fitment guides and measurements for all of the speaker locations in each specific vehicle. Although I will say that Crutchfield's specs and recommendations have been wrong a few times. Measure you're speaker location's available top mounting depth and the distance from the top surface of the mounting hole to the underside of your grill. Then try to get the dimensions of the speaker you're planning to buy from the manufacturer's owner's manual (usually posted on their website). Hot tip. Just buy Pioneer's inexpensive TS-A878 3.5" coaxials. They are better than at least 90% of most other brand's 3.5" coaxials under ~$130. EDIT: The tweeters on the TS-A878 also stick up a bit above the main 3.5" midrange speaker as well. So check measurements before buying
@@GP-fc7jv Understood. 👍 Unless the underside of the grill has some plastic reinforcement gussets which are what is contacting the tweeter and you could trim/cut out just the gussets to gain clearance, there's probably not much you could do besides cutting an appropriate size round hole for the tweeter in the OEM grill with a good hole saw bit or router, and then covering the entire grill with color-matching or black grill cloth. I've seen it done before and have done it myself (:blush:), and if done well it can actually look decent. But most people wouldn't want to permanently alter or damage their OEM grills, or have that miniature "volcano" or "titties" look on their dash. :-P As Mark suggested, a trim ring type riser/spacer that's set into the outer perimeter of the dash/grill opening that the grill could then be snapped into would be nice, but probably not the simple solution you were looking for unless you have the right tools and skills.
Just did a system in my Gladiator and im happy to know i sound treated those pods the same exact way you did!
I’ve been watching your videos for a few years now and you’ve pretty much taught me everything I know about car audio and becoming a better installer I always appreciate your help
We need someone like you in Tampa FL that knows what he is doing. Consumers just want it done right especially when you dont know any of these local shops that you can trust.
I bought these pods as well and the brackets for the sound bar. I too put sound deadner inside and poly fill. Also, I placed sound deadener in the sound bar as well as poly fill. I used 6.5 kickers for the front, (components) and 6.5 actual kicker midrange speakers. The front pods, as for the wiring, I used the same rubber piece from the back. using an exacto knife, I split it in half, like a taco, (LOL!) exposing the wiring. I carved out the wiring and used the new wires, wrapped in the rubber piece for the speakers. Still maintained a tight fit.
Mark, I love your videos. I actually made a bracket similar to the one you made for the white wrangler. It’s not as sexy as yours but, it came out nice. Thank you for all the ideas!
You should play some music on them and see how they sound. Those JL audio speakers look amazing.
Only $2,200.00 3 way components and you must use an active crossover with a dsp like JL audio’s VX800/8I or VX600/6I with there built in DSP in the amplifier and man do they sound amazing together
Looks great Mark. Wish I had the time to do that level of detail to my system. My car is older and has many worn, loose and rattling panels. I video on how you'd repair/treat this type would be cool to see. Keeping future serviceability in mind, how would you sound treat an older car? A system like 4 channels and one sub. Total system power of about 1500w rms.
Again! I've learned so much over the year since I found you 😃 2015 VW beetle has a nice size pod for the rear 6.5 speakers which are in the side. I did all that but the wires like you did. No filler because of the size of the pods. Very nice sound. Tight bass. Not boomy like the front doors. Makes a nice blend to me
Mark
Hi, I, too, have a 23 Jeep Wrangler and bought these pods as part of my system upgrade. I left the factory radio in and added: PAC Pro CH1 Low to high adaptor running digital optical out -> JL D8 - Analog out ->Alpine HDA-V90 amp-> Focal PXE PS 165 3 way set up. My question is did you experience any resonance or mechanical noise from the 6.5's you installed? I treated the pods with spray in noise damping liquid, then cover the pods inside and outside with Dynamat door kit noise damping. Any suggestions on how to solve the unwanted and distracting noise? I also swapped the 6.5's out which helped a little, but the noise is still there.
Thanks for these. I'm building custom pods to give my truck a complete revamp audio wise but make it appear like it has a factory system. Will end up being an 11 speaker system but be hidden and only the new stereo will stand out.
Wouldnt be able to do this at the quality I can without your help.
Commenting before I watch, but I already know it’s gonna be good!
Right?!
Thank you very much for this video!!!
I did almost everything as you suggested, put sound isolating materials, put silicon gasget seal on the inside of the connection part of the pods . Closed the additional speaker mount holes with the gasket seal and the sound deadening material from inside that overlapped the connection seam but I am so disappointed how it ended up sounding.
I put 100W Polk components and I am not sure if the speaker is garbage or the pods or both! I have to basically use the speaker with High pass filter otherwise there is a terrible rattle sound. Speaker itself has many holes and these holes are very close to the woofer's rubber and it's leaking air from there. Will a wooden adapter ring under the speaker solve that issue?
Also, I used the rubber part from the the stock box to seal the wire hole, it sat pretty good to be honest but I'm not sure if that was a deal breaker?
I'm planning to make mdf adapters and give it a one more go but maaan! it took sooooo much time to remove all the garbage parts to reach to the speaker pods -it is so discouraging to take another go on this.
I regret it so much to waste so much time to end up with a terrible sound which is not any better than the factory garbage speakers. I wish I went with the 3 1/2 speakers...
Do your pods rattle with a decent bass (not a lot)? Would you recommend getting 3 1/2 instead of 100W Polks? Maybe it is too much for a little pod but anyways I wasn't expecting earth shattering sound - all I wanted to have clean mid bass.
Would love to hear your thoughts on how your pods sound after the install, do you have a review video?
Any insight would be appreciated!
Thank you!
Since you kept the factory radio, did you have to add load resistors to the new speakers?
Wow. This is like watching Cooks Country, tv show. 37 steps to grilling hamburgers. And they are still good.
But, I always enjoy your videos!
Does it make a difference if I apply the sound deadening to the inside of the pod vs the outside? In my case that would save a LOT of time and effort since the pods are rather big and long :D
Thanks for any advice👌
Thx Mark, you're the best!
Always great videos and info. I'm about to build an inwall subwoofer that fits between two studs 16 on center that fill about 80% of the wall cavity. Do I need Acoustic batting for this? The depth of the sub is about 3" and a height of about 70"? Also, what's the best way to design the interior of this type of sub? The sub will be closed and not ported.
My speakers did not come with screws. Speaker and Pod holes line up. Which screws do you recommend?
Hey Mark , Attempting to do this build coming up . You referred the plastic circles you used to close the pods and said you cut them on the lazer. What would be alternative to close those pods since I don't own a Lazer ? Any ideas at all would be awesome.
Thats a great video, One question my JL does not have the premium system with factory amp. Do I need the LC7i to add a 6 channel amp?
Excellent work!
I’m going with kickers as well
Would you put the jl audio c7 6 inch speakers in those pods and in the soundbar with the c7 tweeters in the dash? Also with a pair of jl audio stealth boxes. Thanks.
Thank I just did the same last month I was hoping I did it right now I c I did good thanks
Are there any manufacturers that make those kind of pods. Seems like a universal pod that was CA glued to a universal speaker adapter. Is that a thing?
So I have been watching your videos and you already professional you have great I would love to learn some car audio from you I'm from Trinidad
I REALLY hope you angle the speakers in the dash away from the windshield. With the angle the glass it at it isn't going to reflect very much sound towards your ears, it's gonna go above your head and hit the ceiling (it might be good for people in the rear tho lol) - You should REALLY think about adding some rings around the mid and tweeter to angle them a few degrees. Yea it wont be a direct aim towards your ears, but it will do A LOT more than them just laying flat. PLUS this will make them MUCH more visible and look VERY PROFERSSIONAL - I hope you do this (and tht you haven't finished the build already and it's not too late for me to be making suggestions) - No matter, YOU are the professional here, so you know best :)
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!! :D
Great video.would you make them hole plugs with the wire adapter .to sell to your RUclips's.would def.need that.I have the same kit metra 2020 wrangler jl.thanx with the great content oh yeah what speaker model is that
You are awesome but you know dang good and well that you cut off those tabs the most time consuming way possible 😂
FYI I used info learned from you to make custom center caps for the wheels on my truck
What do you recommend for a Wrangler?
Hey Mark,
Is there enough room in that pod to add a component tweeter?
Hey Mark can you make another video with cheap diy things but for factory/light modded vehicles? Thanks man you the best!
Hi Mark, I love your videos. Where do you buy the carpet to line the subwoofer boxes?
Im using some 6.5" 2 ways for a boom box, what kind of box should i make for them? I was thinking a tline box or at least ported to get good lows.
To get better lows, it may be a good idea to add some mass onto the cone, in the form of washers or something. You'll be less efficient, but it'll lower the resonant frequency.
@@blakebrockhaus347 never heard of that lol. Lowring efficiency isnt an option the speakers are already under powered 😆
@@A6Legit yeah, it's just really hard to get lows out of small subs, because they tend to have very high efficiency bandwidth products. Honestly a 6th order bandpass may be your best option
@@blakebrockhaus347 This is a seriously low power project just for the hell of it. I dont want to do 6th order because theyre 2 way speakers and i want to hear the tweets. The amp im using is not even powering them at RMS. Ive only heard them free air but it plays decent lows. 31-16khz. I just wanted something that will help a midrange hit some lows. Im leaning towards 4th order because tline seems like overkill and would have to be a huge box.
@@A6Legit ok, if you're doing like a coaxial boom box or something, ported is your best bet
Mark, really out of curiosity due to me having 'made my existing mid-woofer enclosures work', what are the ones you use in this video called exactly? I just looked on Crutchfield' website for my 07 Wrangler and they don't show anything like those.
Those pods came out of the Wrangler dash
Is the activator you use for the CA glue just to get it to setup quicker or are there any other reasons? Does it make the bond any stronger or weaker?
Faster set.
@Jeff Pessemier
As Mark said, it sets faster because it "Activates" the CA glue. The Activator basically adds moisture to the glue which makes it set up fast.
You can do the same with a fine mist of water, or use common baking soda to fill larger gaps...the baking soda absorbs moisture from the air so it "Activates" the CA glue as well filling gaps.
In this specific scenario, I would probably use a thicker "Gel type" CA glue. You can buy it in various viscosities.
So good video, though realistically speaking, how many installers will actually take time to use a router to make a perfect circle when you can just take pliers and snap off those tabs really cleanly anyways.....
I like the modular plug design!
I would definitely use the wrap it in my shop:)
what pod and speakers are you using? Also, if you are leaving your factory head unit and not using an amp what speakers would you recommend using?
The full build is detailed here: ruclips.net/video/YtI7EMNim_M/видео.htmlfeature=shared If you need help picking speakers for a different application I can assist here: www.caraudiofabrication.com/consultations
Are there by any chance also different universal pods for Euro cars not listed?
One correction...the closed cell foam has absolutely no acoustic dampening properties; it is an isolation barrier only (something vibrating and making noise by against the CLD).
Agreed. The "damping" material needs to be at least 1/4 of the thickness of the actual wavelength of the frequency before it will start to "damp" or absorb that frequency noticeably.
So in this case it *might* start to damp/absorb frequencies that are 15kHz and above, which 6.5" car audio midwoofers will not even be playing, LOL. For reference, 20kHz has a wavelength of 0.66 inches.
I never said it did. I worked for a tier one OEM supplier for several years that produced sound treatment materials. I fully understand how each works.
@@CarAudioFabrication
Well Mark, you also didn't state that the thin CCF *doesn't* affect acoustic performance in that way, so... ;-)
You might know that, but lots of people are mislead by this or don't understand unless it's explicitly stated, so we were just chiming in for those who might be less informed. ;-)
Carry on with your good work, sir. 👍
CarAudioFabrication I am sure you do based on the quality of your work. It is referred to on the product as "acoustic foam"; 5:30. You simply read it back in the video. Your sound treatment of the pos is excellent.
@@CarAudioFabrication sounds like they need their own channel 🤣 After a year of watching him. He's NEVER given me false or incorrect information. If he did, my car would of burnt down by now. Trolling to try to make you seem like you don't know what you're doing. Really?
Hello sir, i have a stressful question here, my subwoofer Pioneer TS w-3003D4 has an FS rating of 35Hz is it safe if I tune the cab below the Resonance frequency (FS) rating like 28Hz? will I harm my subwoofer? I have read soo many contents online but there is no precise answer though the sub has a handling frequency rating of 20 to 80Hz. Kindly help
Hi there. He has a video or to on that topic. I'm not sure what their titles are. But they're great videos on the topic
Would it be recommended to build ( or 3d print) door pods instead of leaving the entire door panel as a chamber?
It depends on if the speaker's Theile/Small parameters are suitable for a small sealed enclosure or not.
Most 6.5" car audio component set midwoofers are designed with a higher Qts spec for the open or "Free Air/Infinite Baffle" environment of a typical car door.
An excellent car audio midwoofer that will work well in a somewhat small sealed enclosure as well is the Audiofrog GB60 6.5".
The advantage of a sealed "door pod" is that much less vibration & resonance will be transferred to the door cavity and door panel (if it's built and installed properly).
Most car audio speakers are designed for the larger door cavity which is usually more optimal when properly sound treated.
I known im late to the game... how do they sound after installation
Don't got anything to say just commenting to help the youtube algorithm :)
Very nice 👍
Thank you
Notification squad
You guys are the best!
I have a 2010 Toyota Prius I put in the dash 3.5 Skar speakers and the tweeters stick on so the grill doesn’t sit all way down what should I do?
Can you fab a filler piece to raise up off the existing surface?
^ or some kind of spacer? Im guessing none of that will work because the grill clips into the dash.
@Gary Priest
Maybe do more research next time and buy speakers that will fit without this issue?
It's a common issue, and Online retailers such as Crutchfield have fitment guides and measurements for all of the speaker locations in each specific vehicle. Although I will say that Crutchfield's specs and recommendations have been wrong a few times.
Measure you're speaker location's available top mounting depth and the distance from the top surface of the mounting hole to the underside of your grill. Then try to get the dimensions of the speaker you're planning to buy from the manufacturer's owner's manual (usually posted on their website).
Hot tip. Just buy Pioneer's inexpensive TS-A878 3.5" coaxials. They are better than at least 90% of most other brand's 3.5" coaxials under ~$130. EDIT: The tweeters on the TS-A878 also stick up a bit above the main 3.5" midrange speaker as well. So check measurements before buying
@@bbfoto7248 thanks I was wondering if the grill could be modified
@@GP-fc7jv
Understood. 👍
Unless the underside of the grill has some plastic reinforcement gussets which are what is contacting the tweeter and you could trim/cut out just the gussets to gain clearance, there's probably not much you could do besides cutting an appropriate size round hole for the tweeter in the OEM grill with a good hole saw bit or router, and then covering the entire grill with color-matching or black grill cloth.
I've seen it done before and have done it myself (:blush:), and if done well it can actually look decent. But most people wouldn't want to permanently alter or damage their OEM grills, or have that miniature "volcano" or "titties" look on their dash. :-P
As Mark suggested, a trim ring type riser/spacer that's set into the outer perimeter of the dash/grill opening that the grill could then be snapped into would be nice, but probably not the simple solution you were looking for unless you have the right tools and skills.
Awesome videos man
Do you still have a mobile solutions promo code ?
For Patreon members yes. www.patreon.com/caraudiofabrication
Hey any audio control dqdx videos in the near future. It ‘s pretty much non existent on RUclips.
C7 or GB??
1: glue 2: solder now you are done
2:01 giggdy
Wouldn’t spray foam be allot easier on the inside
using a palm router problem solved.
you need a 3D printer for some of those parts
No you don't. Just a router. The speaker pods were bought.