Great video Mark. Having a Triple Edge Finder or similar brand is a big plus. Makes it really easy to find that "lost zero location". Thanks also for the shout out and the link. You rock buddy.
Thanks very much, Dave! It is handy, but I know not everyone uses Mach3 or has a 3-way touch plate. Your video covered it better than I could have, so I thought it would be wrong of me not to mention you and your video. For everyone else, if you're not subscribed to Dave (shame on ya,) go subscribe now! He's got a lot of great information and cool projects over there!
As you noted, there are other ways. Allow me to share a way I have used to good effect (and does not require any extra items)... - Home machine XY; set XY's to zero. This is a fixed reference. - Jog to XY origin for job run. RECORD XY VALUES. These are the important offsets from the fixed machine origin. Now, zeros XYs. - Touch off Z; and zero. - So, to recover: repeat first step, then enter the offsets (I use gcodes in the command line). - Again, - Touch off Z; and zero. - Now, you're good to go:) - I've had to do this a number of times, especially when training people and they disturb things when switching bits. It works every time - provided you remember to do the offset, and record the values.
Mark: Another good video. I've had these situations, too. The biggest issue for me is not finding XYZ0, but being able to resume carving where I left off. When the machine dies after a few thousand lines, it's a bear to have to repeat all those lines to get back to where you were. And, if the machine is out by a hair, the next carve may not be exactly where the first one was. I appreciate that this may well be beyond where you want to go with this topic, though. Grant
Thank you, Grant! You make an excellent point - one that I forgot to address in the video, as this particular g-code file was so short. I'll do another video in the future that'll help folks narrow down where they were in the g-code file, and at least get closer to picking up where they left off.
When Mach3 is shut down, it doesn't remember anything you didn't save to the XML file. When you turn it off, it asks you if you want to save the last machine and work coordinate zero as a fixture. You can do this to make setup easier the next time you run that particular g-code. You can also (once you have the machine homed and your work zeros set,) save that setup as a fixture before you ever start cutting. As I said in another reply to a different comment, I rarely cut more than one of a project, so it makes no sense for me to save that setup. Not when it takes about a minute to reset everything should the power go out.
I saw this in another video, so I thought I would share. Instead of a aligator clip on the endmill. The guy used a earth magnet and it had the wire attached. So you don't damage the bit or have slippage, it just clips on by. EMF
Thanks, Stephen! I've seen the magnetized touch plate grounds as well. My only caution would be to make sure the magnet you use is conductive and doesn't have a non-conductive coating on it (ceramic, clear coat, paint, plastic, etc...) I've never had the alligator clip slip off (hence the "sanity checks") and between you and me, if that alligator clip somehow damages the bit, I need to throw that bit away and never buy that brand again. Thanks again!
I'm using an Xbox360 controller with Mach3 control software. Some control software won't work with that controller, so I'd suggest doign a Google search for your controller software and game controller. For example, search for "UGS CNC Game Controller" if you use UGS. That should get you some results.
I'm afraid I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "Work Onset." If you mean "work offset," that's fine if you're using a fixture or some other dedicated setup. I only use a few fixtures, and I don't bother with setting up work offsets for them. Almost all of the projects I cut are one-off projects. I've only ever made more than 1 of anything on rare occasions, so it doesn't make sense for me to go through the process of creating a setup I'm going to use 1 time, then never revisit. Especially when it only takes a few seconds to reset my machine and work zeros should something happen. The only reason this video was as long as it is was because I was explaining what I was doing, moving cameras, etc. Normally it would take about a minute to get back to cutting.
Enjoyed the video thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom hope to join in this afternoon you have a blessed day
Great video Mark. Having a Triple Edge Finder or similar brand is a big plus. Makes it really easy to find that "lost zero location". Thanks also for the shout out and the link. You rock buddy.
Thanks very much, Dave! It is handy, but I know not everyone uses Mach3 or has a 3-way touch plate. Your video covered it better than I could have, so I thought it would be wrong of me not to mention you and your video. For everyone else, if you're not subscribed to Dave (shame on ya,) go subscribe now! He's got a lot of great information and cool projects over there!
As you noted, there are other ways. Allow me to share a way I have used to good effect (and does not require any extra items)...
- Home machine XY; set XY's to zero. This is a fixed reference.
- Jog to XY origin for job run. RECORD XY VALUES. These are the important offsets from the fixed machine origin. Now, zeros XYs.
- Touch off Z; and zero.
- So, to recover: repeat first step, then enter the offsets (I use gcodes in the command line).
- Again, - Touch off Z; and zero.
- Now, you're good to go:)
- I've had to do this a number of times, especially when training people and they disturb things when switching bits. It works every time - provided you remember to do the offset, and record the values.
Mark: Another good video. I've had these situations, too. The biggest issue for me is not finding XYZ0, but being able to resume carving where I left off. When the machine dies after a few thousand lines, it's a bear to have to repeat all those lines to get back to where you were. And, if the machine is out by a hair, the next carve may not be exactly where the first one was. I appreciate that this may well be beyond where you want to go with this topic, though. Grant
Thank you, Grant! You make an excellent point - one that I forgot to address in the video, as this particular g-code file was so short. I'll do another video in the future that'll help folks narrow down where they were in the g-code file, and at least get closer to picking up where they left off.
I have a Shapeoko XXL with carbide Motion and it always remembers X,Y and Z !!
I have X Carve using GRBL and it does the same.
When Mach3 is shut down, it doesn't remember anything you didn't save to the XML file. When you turn it off, it asks you if you want to save the last machine and work coordinate zero as a fixture. You can do this to make setup easier the next time you run that particular g-code. You can also (once you have the machine homed and your work zeros set,) save that setup as a fixture before you ever start cutting. As I said in another reply to a different comment, I rarely cut more than one of a project, so it makes no sense for me to save that setup. Not when it takes about a minute to reset everything should the power go out.
@@MarkLindsayCNC Thanks for the quick reply.
And I want to say thanks for all your videos they are very informative and helpful to many.
I saw this in another video, so I thought I would share.
Instead of a aligator clip on the endmill. The guy used a earth magnet and it had the wire attached. So you don't damage the bit or have slippage, it just clips on by. EMF
Thanks, Stephen! I've seen the magnetized touch plate grounds as well. My only caution would be to make sure the magnet you use is conductive and doesn't have a non-conductive coating on it (ceramic, clear coat, paint, plastic, etc...) I've never had the alligator clip slip off (hence the "sanity checks") and between you and me, if that alligator clip somehow damages the bit, I need to throw that bit away and never buy that brand again. Thanks again!
I love your videos! Can you share a link or instructions for your remote pendant?
I'm using an Xbox360 controller with Mach3 control software. Some control software won't work with that controller, so I'd suggest doign a Google search for your controller software and game controller. For example, search for "UGS CNC Game Controller" if you use UGS. That should get you some results.
Use Mach 3 at work and it always remembers work offset so dont know what’s happening there. Maybe a setting ?
I'm afraid I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "Work Onset." If you mean "work offset," that's fine if you're using a fixture or some other dedicated setup. I only use a few fixtures, and I don't bother with setting up work offsets for them. Almost all of the projects I cut are one-off projects. I've only ever made more than 1 of anything on rare occasions, so it doesn't make sense for me to go through the process of creating a setup I'm going to use 1 time, then never revisit. Especially when it only takes a few seconds to reset my machine and work zeros should something happen. The only reason this video was as long as it is was because I was explaining what I was doing, moving cameras, etc. Normally it would take about a minute to get back to cutting.