Precise Zero Setting Without a Touch Probe on Your CNC Bits
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- Опубликовано: 13 янв 2021
- This video tutorial explains how to set up your CNC router bit start point, or zero point, for XYZ for your CNC router projects. You will learn how to set the X Y Z zero locations to the exact start point of your project.
Be sure to check the links below for other CNC router tutorials and Vectric software tutorials.
Setting X & Y time stamp: 7:28
Setting a router bit to the exact corner is easy and can be done fast without the use of a tool touch probe. This technique is used by professional CNC machinists routinely. In the times when they needed higher precision, that's when they use probes to assist.
As a CNC beginner (or even a pro,), this method is completely adequate for woodworking projects done on a CNC router.
Setting the zero point is easy.
Know the diameter of the tool
1. Use the paper method to set the Z height
2. Touch the edge of the material while turning the tool by hand. When you feel the tool touch, stop and set zero
3. Touch the other edge of the material in the same manner and set zero
4. Raise the tool above the Z surface
5. Enter in the command line "G20" (if you use inches), "G21" (millimeter) and hit enter
6.Divide the tool diameter by 2 (example...0.25 tool is 0.125 when divided by 2)
→ 0.125 is used in the example below. Make sure to enter your divided number
7. In the command line enter "G0 G90 X0.125 Y0.125" and hit enter
8. Set X and Y to Zero on your controller.
Your exact position is now set
This was shown on a BobsCNC CNC Evolution 4 (E4 EV4) using universal code sender software (ugs) although I do not recommend wood-frame CNC routers as they do not have the necessary rigidity.
My recommendation is the Longmill CNC router as a robust yet economical machine
To see a review video on the Longmill, go here → • Longmill CNC Router - ...
LONGMILL CNC ROUTER WEBSITE:
sienci.com/product/longmill-m...
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ROUTER BITS FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ 11pc carbide CNC router bit set (w/ free vector files) www.idcwoodcraft.com/11P-SET-W
→ 1” Surfacing bit required for surfacing your spoil board: www.idcwoodcraft.com/SU-10
→ Glass engraving drag bit: www.idcwoodcraft.com/ED-14
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OTHER ‘MUST HAVES’ FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ Calipers: amzn.to/338MAt3
→ Hearing protection (plugs don't work): amzn.to/2Hs1RgW
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Recommended Design Software
→ Vcarve Pro (RECOMMENDED)→ bit.ly/3d4WrEU
→ Vcarve Desktop → bit.ly/3D4CwjH
→ Vectric Aspire → shrsl.com/37pw9
→ Cut2D Desktop → shrsl.com/36xfm
→ Carveco (budget) → bit.ly/37rhVbY
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Take the full course ↓
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PLAYLISTS
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VECTRIC VCARVE & ASPIRE TUTORIALS FOR BEGINNERS: bit.ly/3pdmFsi
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If you currently own a CNC router, please take a moment to take this survey to share your experience with it: bit.ly/3r5XzNh
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Please support IDC Woodcraft RUclips channel:
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Cool vector files for CNC router & CNC laser: etsy.me/3oxX79l
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CNC FOR BEGINNERS PODCAST: anchor.fm/cnc-for-beginners
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Garrett Fromme
Facebook: IDCWoodcraft
Website: www.idcwoodcraft.com
Email: garrett@idcwoodcraft.com
I'm new to cnc and bought the 3018 to learn on. This is one of the best videos showing me how to do it right.
I see a lot of tube vids and they skip a step, miss a step, assume you know what the heck they are talking about, try to sell you a step or talk you into a coma and on..on..on.
Thank you...Great Vid!
W M, I'm glad it was helpful brother! I know how much info is out there and how confusing it can be when even one little step is missing!
I can't say THANK YOU enough!! I've been struggling with this issue for a few days and now I'm locked in.
Willc380, glad I could help my friend!
I have watched a lot of your videos, but this one which seem simple helped me the most. Just to let you know that G20 and G21 thing really helped a lot. Not to mention all the other tips. Thanks for all you do for us Mr. Garrett.
Timothy, glad to hear this one helped you so much my friend.
have to come back so I downloaded it for futher reference later on ! Great stuff Garrett !
Louis, good call brother!
I recently finished assembling my Evo 5 and for the life of me I could not figure out how to set the start point. This video was very informative and got me pointed in the right direction.
Right on John! Glad this video helped you out.
Thanks Garrett for such clear and simple demo how to find X Y Z zero locations. Keep up your good work to educate CNC novice like me.
Thanks Mohd. I'll keep it up.
I have been thinking about getting a CNC router for a long time but being a dumb Butt I just could not figure out what was required of me to make the device do what I want it to do.
You have now removed all that magic smoke and mirrors and made it so much more achievable for me. I just subscribed and thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
All the best
Tony
Tony, you are so welcome my friend! I am so happy to hear that these videos are demystifying CNC routers for you. Keep up the hard work!
I'm not new to cnc but I always learn a little something from your video's! Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, we all have some little trick to offer. Thanks for the boost lol
love learning this stuff while waiting for my machine to come,your such a good teacher,I wanna be ready,thank you.
Fred, if anyone is ready, it will be you!
I am new to cnc i have tried so much to understand how to setup x,y,z on other channels but it was hard you have the best camera high quality that we can see what is done.Other videos it was hard to know where the bit is you have shown us by moving the camera angle to the side i knew exactly how to setup.Know i know i can learn cnc i am really so happy that i found your channel my hats off to you.Other channels is like shortcut it is like how much they know not how acurate we should know how to run the cnc without getting hurt.I hope most of the learners will agree.Whole day today i will repeat watching your channel until i get in my head.God Bless you sir and have a joyous year.
Divendra...thank you for sharing what you said. It means so much to know I am doing it right. All I want is for people like to learn this amazing craft so you can make those beautiful things drifting around in your mind.
You just insured me! Thank you
Thanks for the info. Just found your info last night. Totally new to cnc learning a lot from your videos. Ordering a bobs next week thanks again
Very cool on the purchase! And so glad my knowledge is helping you. That is exactly why I do what I do. I want to see success in others and now you're added to the list.
If you think about it, when you order the machine, maybe you can tell them some guy named Garrett endoreses their product and company.
I’ve been struggling with this concept since I started. Thank you so much!
Steve, you're so welcome! I love those Ahh-haa moments! Keep up the good work!
Once again you have helped me figure something out. Thanks Garrett.
Garrett, right on brother. Glad this helped!
Really well explained! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Barefootly!
I'll watch this a couple more times just become adept at it... thanks
48vdcwrld, no problem brother! Watch as many times as needed my friend, it's here to help you learn!
Thanks for the great videos just got an evolution 4 gonna start putting it together and think im going to go with vcarve desktop after looking at other options out there. Very helpful the vids you are doing. Keep up the great work. God bless you.
Congrats John. The build will be fun. And your choice for Vcarve is definitely the way to go. Maybe you can drop them an email and tell them some guy named Garrett on RUclips completely endorses their product.
I got more videos coming all the time. Stick with me and we'll get you there fast!
Thank you Garrett- once again!!😎
Bilall, Im happy this helped you my friend
Sweet. Thanks. Fantastic.
Glad this video helped you Todd.
Thanks a lot , it seems like a very helpful way to work when the board is the exact size of the project,
Pachon, you are so welcome my friend.
Thanks! Keep up the good work.
Jerry, I sure will brother! You keep up the great work too!
Another Great Video!!
That made me smile. Thanks Dan!
brilliant and easy explanation! thank you Garrett!!
Piotrkacala, you are so welcome my friend.
Good video Garrett. Having accuracy issues with my X-carve and I’m thinking it my tool set to the material.
Allen, I'm glad this video helped you brother!
Thanks for another of you well explained tutorial videos. I never really bothered with centering the X & Y, as I do my work from the center of the machine, so, my X & Y usually change with each project or piece, unless they are the exact same.
I should have mentioned about eye-balling the X and Y in the video. I got your email. Just getting really busy. I'll respond tomorrow.
Great explanation!!! Subscribed!
Hi GENX! glad to have you on board with this community of amazing creators. Keep watching. I've got a lot out there for you and a whole lot more coming!
Great video. Please keep up the good work.
rousslandossa405, glad you liked this one brother!
I have programmed in g code in the past. This is great. The most accurate way.
Hey Joseph. It is quite fast too
Good stuff Thank you
Kenneth, you're so welcome! Glad to help!
Thanks you explained that great 👍
Hi Jerry. So you understand how to do this now?
Wonderful video
Norm, im glad to hear it!
Awesome stuff thanks
Lynwardwoodworks, glad you enjoyed it my friend!
I watched a carbide create video a few weeks ago. The guy stated he likes to zero the z axis from the bottom of the wood. He said a short sentence after that but it really didn't mean anything to me. He didn't really hit the nail on the head in his explanation so I found out on my own and ruined a piece of wood in the process.
I found out the hard way the real reason why he zero's from the bottom of the wood is that during tool change the bottom of the wood never changes. Its always in the same spot. So if your zero is set at the top of the wood and during tool change you accidentally set your z to the new depth that you just cut now all of a sudden everything is going to be wrong especially if it doesn't concur with your cuts.
I bring this up because I would honestly like to hear the real reason why you would set your starting point in the middle of your project and how exactly would you set your x & y for a circular piece of flat wood.
it seems to me I would just treat the circle just like a square. I go to the lowest point in the circle to set the bit and then I go to the farthest left side of the circle and set that side?
When I did that though, and pressed outline on gSender the long mill went crazy, one side skewed and then it even come way to far forward and go past its limits.
It did that several times. I eventually just drew a pencil line like it was a square and set that bit using a ruler standing on its side to represent the side of the "square" and cut the wood without using outline.
By that time I was tired and during bit change I set for the wrong z and that little bit I bought from you just tore through the wood like it was nothing. I expected it to break but it never did. Great bit but my mistake in measuring the wrong depth.
iwannaapple, in CNC trial and error and mistakes is ok Brother! I am happy to see that you are learning from your mistakes and want to keep working hard.
The reason we set our zero to the middle is because sometimes it is convenient! Just like you said, sometimes we are working with a piece of wood that doesn't have a clean crisp edge and the best reference we can get for the CNC is right in the middle.
As for a circle what I would recommend is getting a ruler and measuring it until you find the widest point, then draw a line. Then turn the circle around by 90 degrees, measure it again and draw a line. That intersection is the centermost part of the circle.
@@IDCWoodcraft
By finding the center of the circle and setting the z in the center, does that mean I don't have to set the x & y to the side of the material but at the center also? I using carbide create right now and I would have to set the to the middle also?
Thanks, Garrett.
Tony, you are so welcome my friend.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!! SUBSCRIBED!!
rescobar8572, so happy to hear this one helped you brother! Happy CNCing.
Thank you Garrett. I have you subscribed and bell on. Excellent video by the way. I have my machine in my shop and will be putting it together tomorrow. I want to learn as much as I can because this will be my full time income. I will give you a shout if I have any questions. Thank you again and God Bless.
Hank, you're so welcome brother! That's awesome I'm excited for you to get it all set up and get to creating! What's your first project going to be?
You make look so easy 👍
Practice makes it so.
Garret, I've been thinking maybe I needed a "touch-pad", but they are expensive. This Zeroing technique is simple! I don't even consider myself a novice as yet. About all I've been able to do is jog, and re-home. Am wrestling with mods and trying to understand how to g/m-code in preparation for the work I need to do. Thanks!
Paddiman772, you're so welcome! And don't worry my friend we all start out as complete novices! Give this zeroing a try, I think you'll be surprised how well it works!
Z can zero own cheap touch plate, cheap make own at home, no need lot tools, and parts , one aluminium or other metal piece, screw metal sheet one wore, then solder second wire to crocodile clamp, and connect sheet wire controller probe GND plug, and second wire to probe input connect plug, and have cheap probe sensor. only Z axis, this have yotube some video how make cheap Z zeroing probe. same can use X and Y too, but sheet to X side to work piece and move bit to metal piece same than Z you do before, and same do Y side but sheet to work piece side and move bit to sheet then you have zero, and then minus half bit and minus sheet tight have true zero point.
great info... thank you
Hi Bling. Thanks. Are you new to CNC?
@@IDCWoodcraft brand new... have been researching it for a couple of months and learning the basics online... got my machine (1500 mm x 1500mm.. or 59 Inches for your side of the world)... so my journey has just begun...
Great info, Thank you
Hi John. thanks. sometimes, I think I go overboard on videos. Then I get surprises by people like you who thank me for giving all the details.
I definitely appreciate the tutorial videos, I'm soaking up info like a sponge as I got CNC as early Christmas present. Like Santa's workshop, had pre Christmas production line going for gifts & decorations. Learned lots & still learning more daily. Gives me new interest as been retired/disabled 10+ years
@@JohnColgan. Yup, gotta keep the mind and spirit active.
Biggest AHA yet! Start using UGS. Thank you!!!!
Hi Suzy. USG...I love it. And so will you.
Coming from the 3D printing world, I smiled when I saw the paper method.
Coffeeology, right on brother! You definitely get it then, the paper method is tried and true!
Excellent video but so glad we use the metric system
Shephen, you are so right. Who likes fractions!?!?
@@IDCWoodcraft still excellent tutorials
metric use tell machine G21 this have metric dimensions to machine understand and G20 tell to machine have imperial. this have all code first row, machine use metric or imperial dimensions.
Good videos, bro!
Thanks HT!! You're a CNC guy? what kind of projects do you do?
@@IDCWoodcraft Hey there... I am too a CNC guy, for about 5 years, now. We make plaques, for the most part.
Thank you sir.
That made a world of sense.
Just a couple of questions:
1) Why do they have wigglers, touch probes and other gizmos to find the zero point if it can be done this way?
2) Do you get better accuracy finding the zero point using a wiggler / touch probes?
Thank you!
By wiggler, I'm asssuming you are meaning an 'edge finder'. This method is very accurate.
Touch probes are also very accurate and much easier to use. this is for those who do not have one but want accurate settings.
Muito bom, excelente aula e me ajudou bastante. agora sinto confiança para fazer certos serviços que antes evitava fazer
M1sc3, Fico feliz em saber que este ajudou você irmão!
Nice video
Thanks Dlanett!
For most projects, it is not essential that you have an exact X and Y zero point. Most projects I do I end up cutting or trimming the board to the final dimensions or, if the zero is off by a sight amount wont make a difference on the final product.
The Z zero is very important, especially when using a V bit.
Dan, thanks for adding this note. I forgot to mention that in the video. So glad I have help from you with tips!
I like your channel by the way. I have seen many of your videos and let the entire long videos stream in while I was doing some kind of physical work, I think it was soldering up pcb boards. Kind of like a radio broadcast. Many of the ones I saw were with the people you are mentoring. I makes for good background television, kind of like have the golf channel on. You have a good voice and a great presentation.
NewRAD CNC, thanks brother I appreciate that! I'm glad you've been enjoying the videos. The mentoring ones are definitely fun for me to make too! Happy cutting!
@@IDCWoodcraft I make software for CNC Machines. If you ever want some cool new software, just let me know. I will set you up. I have a CNC Controller software like Mach3 called "NewRAD CNC", now with cameras, that can auto reposition to X0 Y0, withe a precision of up to 0.01mm, using only 2 microscope cameras. I also have a very nice Drawing program with GCode Generator, and an Imaging program to convert photos to SVG, and then to GCode. It would work great with one of your laser machines.
Hello I’m learning a lot from you. Now can you save this home coordinates so you can always be at that spot for future jobs. Thank you sir.
Bearded, you are completely right brother! Double check with this method on every new piece of wood though to be as accurate as possible.
Thank you for this tutorial. I tried and it works perfect. I use Eding software, the coding change is indeed possoble in any software. Technically I don't quite get it though - that I had to set the X and Y axis zero at the reverse order. (When i think I am rubbing the bit on the X axis, i had to set Y as zero in the software, then only it gets right). It works but i dont understand why.
The Minimalist, that is a bit odd brother! I would reach out to the software company regarding that problem.
Thanks your videos Garrett they are very helpful. What is the best way to aling your stock to ensure it is square to the cnc x and y axis?
Charlie, try gridlines in your spoilboard! Here is a video that you should take a look at: ruclips.net/video/KTvyreaShC0/видео.html
Legend thanks mate I ended up sticking a pencil on and drawing some lines but your way is much better
thanks for the info but , I have question in the end of your video u did not put the z to the zero point you leave it up so when I run the spindle do I keep the z up like you do and cnc well go automatic or just put the z in zero point and if I DO it will touch my workpiece when I run my spindle
Hi Abduloawi. I always pull the z axis up before I start the spindle
Nice video. What if the piece isn’t square on the table? Do you need to set the piece according to the zerod Y further to the end? Also, what about irregular shaped pieces. Do you treat them as square and let the program do the rest?
Nathan, with projects like that you have to treat it more on a case by case basis. Typically with odd shapes its best to zero to the center of the project. Its also easier if you set your center zero with a pencil on the project and then you wont loose it incase you mess up and your machine shuts down.
Garrett can I do something like that in Carbide Motion that runs my shapoko xxl pro cnc
Hey Jeff, I am not sure. I do not use that program to run my CNC. However, I will look into it.
Great info. Thanks! What would you say is the benefit of using the paper method vs. the probe method to zero Z?
Paper is fast and easy. Probe is exact and exact is not always required on wood. Most wood projects are not 'exactly even onthe top surface. I have a probe and never use it.
@@IDCWoodcraft Paper method will also preserve the fine tips on your small-angle vbits.
if i am doing a carving and there is more than one bit, i have to find z start but wood is lower now how.
Hey Paul, sorry for the delayed reply I've been playing catch up on emails. If there's a spot on your project you can't reference as your original project height, you can always set your z zero to always be the spoilboard surface in Vcarve.
nicejob
Thanks Jim!
Awesome, Thats better than my hand grenade method.... get it close enough
Hey Tom...that was funnty
I just temporarily use a v-bit to visually set the xy zero position and then load the bit I want to cut with into the collet.
Hey Kenny. That works...a clean sharp point to get your location.
Garrett, is there a reason to use paper in Z setting but not using it for X&Y? Old machinist I worked with used to do this with a mill and cigarette papers! w spindle running!
Hi Kevin. I used to set xy the same way. But I will never teach it. you know how fast the fingers can be removed using that method
Thank you for the tutorial, very helpful. I have a question, I have a Next Wave Shark SD110 and what is the best method to identify the center line of the table? I have mad the mistake of placing wood on the table and it was not centered to the table. For example my table is 12X18 but the actual cutting capability is 12X13. I hope I stated this correctly.
Hi Dave.
move the machine to home
zero x & y
enter g0g20x6.0y6.5 (or x6.5y6.0...whichever is correct for your machine)
it will move to the center
insert a v bit and do a small v cut in the table.
Now you know the center.
@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you, I will give it a try. Dave
@@IDCWoodcraft HI Garrett keep wondering how to enter the g codes on my machine. For example, above you say enter g0g20x6.0y6.5 g code. I have the same machine Dave does but how do you do that? I think that should be a video. I'm totally lost on how to enter g codes on my machine and if it will work on the shark machines like Daves. Did Dave try this and did it work?
@@davearmentrout5646 Did it work??? How do you do it. I have the same machine. Thanks
@@maxgarcia9512 Dave's comment was a year ago so I don't remember. Since you are using that machine, and I am not, I'm not sure where to enter it on the console. I would have to see the control panel
Should the Z be lowered to the point of the wood or kept raised like you have it at the end of the video?
When you are done setting the z 0 zero, always raise The z-axis up above the wood.
Awesome video Garrett! ?, Would this method work for a vbit, tapered bit or bowl bit too?
Nissan300zxshowcar, it sure would brother! It is an excellent method for bits like v bits, tapered ball nose bits and bowl bits.
Thank you Garrett!@@IDCWoodcraft So if I use a 1/2" wide vbit, just bring it up to the side of the workpiece, x and y sides, then divide 1/2" by 2 (1/4" and subtract that to the measurement to get the x and y zero, yes?
Hi. Thanks for all.
I have a question .
If I put the routery bit in the corner Manual. Z will be close to the surface of the project . And I press x y z all to be zero. Does this work. ??
Hi Hani. Yes, this is the quick and dirty way and it does work
Do this as a machinist quite often if I don't wanna use my edge finder...
Mr. P, right on brother. It definitely comes in handy!
Hi Garret, New to world CNC. We use CNCjs for the controller software and smoothie. There is a Touch Probe but I am not sure if is programmed for x and y and I am scared to use it in case i crash the bit into workpiece or worse. There is a macro for Probe. Do you know how to set up a macro for the probe that comes with the machine? CNC has been idle for 2 years and now I have been tasked with getting it working so students can use it. Have a small part ready to machine.
Thanks for your help.
thetechnician832, Hey there! It's great that you're diving into the world of CNC woodworking. Setting up a macro for the touch probe should involve creating specific G-code commands to instruct the machine on how to use the probe for locating the workpiece accurately. I'd recommend referring to the machine's user manual or reaching out to the manufacturer for guidance on how to set up the probe macro safely. Good luck with getting the CNC up and running for the students!
What is the best way to do this on a circle or abnormal shape? Love the video, subbed.
The Granjer, great question. Try to find the center of a circle. The abnormal shape is going to be more complex my friend.
Hello Garret I finally have my CNC for Bob set up I’m trying to get the programming set up for it have a little bit of a problem do you have a video set up for that I’m trying to set up in the vcarveThanks Jim
I do not have machine setup videos to connect your machine to the designsoftware. What is the problem you are having?
@@IDCWoodcraft I’m very new at this I have download it easel and I can get the machine to home but I can’t get it to do anything else so I try going into the car desktop like you have I believe and I just can’t seem to get it set up it won’t give me movement of the XYZI would like to start carving I bought all your tools lol which I can’t use because I can’t get it working lol so what do you think thanks Jim
I also have the Home build 30 18 DIY I had it working to on the easel but now it’s not working either so must be someplace in my computer that I’m doing it wrong what do you think
I did what you showed and I’m still getting an error message saying gcode motion target exceeds machine travel. I’m getting frustrated lol. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong. I didn’t have this problem with bobscnc basic sender.
Boone P, you'll need to program the soft limits for your machine because right now that machine thinks it's going to crash into itself and it wont let you run the file.
@@IDCWoodcraft ok, I’ll try that thank you. If I had any hair, I would’ve pulled them all out already lol
Dear nuts good for me!
Malcolm, glad to hear it brother!
Do you have a vid with the probe?
Hi GD. I have several with a probe but not one discussing it specifically. I'll do one soon.
@@IDCWoodcraft thxs
Bravo!!!! Thanks for this video. This must be how my parents felt when I taught them how to use email for the first time...😦 Do you have a video showing the process of generating a GCode from Vcarve and inputting it into universal gcode ? I think that’s the name of your controller software. And also, is that your recommended gcode software?
Hello RT7...that's what I'm calling you from now on. I do but can't remember which one. Looks like I'll need to make one specifically for that. the software is call Universal Gcode Sender. It is free and easy to use. I like it. I have nit used some of the other softwares, but I hear Mach4 is also a good one. It costs about $150.
I can not see any reason to write your own gcode. Vectric has some great programs. Aspire is a little pricey, but worth the money. They automate so much work that you don't want to do by hand. I have cut 24 x 36 panels that exceed 750k lines of code. I know that it is satisfying to control you machine with custom code and in certain conditions even needed, but don't reinvent the wheel. You will have more satisfying results with professional software without beating your head on a rock. The money is worth it. The software is a major part of the machine.
@@placitas52 for the most part, you do not need to write g code. However, it is good to understand it, and one can only really understand it by knowing how to write it.
There are cases where one would want to write cheat code. Not for a whole program, at least not these days. however, sometimes it is completely needed, as there are cases that software cannot interpret what you were trying to do.
the letter zero? but to be serious this was a big help,
CoffeeOutlaws, glad to help brother!
can i ask how this would work in Mach 3 software?
Dafyddgould, it works the same way brother! The buttons are just in slightly different spots.
DO I HAVE TO CHANGE ALL THESE SETTINGS EACH TIME I CHANGE BOARD THICKNESS?
Randy, sorry to say but you'll definitely want to do this each time my friend. It may be a pain, but your projects won't turn out right without it!
Does anyone know how to do this with Basic Sender from Bobscnc?
BPMorningWood, have you tried switching over to UGS or gsender?
@@IDCWoodcraft No, but I'll try UGS on the next go around.
Would you do the same process with a round over bit ?
Great question this video answers that question.
ruclips.net/video/fF5luhisBks/видео.html
i remember i has young boy and first time in metal mill factory, men show me this paper methor, zeroing, but him use thin silk paper and but paper little drop water, then silk paper suck top of metal part.
Matti, that is a great idea! You would get a near perfect zero that way.
@@IDCWoodcraft ånot, i only remember how i see metal mill worker make this i has young boy, i has 16 year i see thats, now i have 65 y.
it's okay for the Z, but XY are offset with this technique. You need to add half the diameter of the bit (for example, a 1/4 endmill, you add 0.125" or 3.175mm) to be in the center of the endmill :)
Thanks for that point. I thought I did that in this video
You did
@@nicoleedmond8842 oh, maybe I missed that part, sorry!
That's because CNC zero positions are always at the center point of the spindle/bit. I use the flutes on a bit like the one in the video, aligning them straight with the edge of the stock.
@@buxtor then you are offset by half of the endmill size. If the side of the endmill is on the side of the stock, it mean the true middle is 0.125" offset for a 0.25" endmill.
It's okay for most case to be honest, except maybe if you have a 2" spoilboard endmill
Thank you, what's the next step?
Allen, then you run your project!!
How do I get g code sender to connect to x carve
Hi Paul. I'm not sure. You'll want to put that question to Xcarve since theior system is slightly different
i fgure it out. homing isnt working but ill keep trying. havent carved yet still playing
I forgot to mention WAZOR has a table top waterjet,but its expensive but you got to pay to play .
Yeah Fred...that's the only thing about water jets. money...
rather than manually entering the correction, its easier for me to enter the xy step value in the jog controller by the value of the radius then reset xy zero again. easier than console work imo
nwmi493, that is a great idea brother! I like that thanks for the tips.
Professor
Cunninghamguitarz9828, I'm humbled brother!
Can someone explain to me why he put 125 in both axis? The tool is 250? Is that? Ty :)
I had to move it over half the diameter to get the center of the bit over the zero point. Does that make sense?
@@IDCWoodcraft yeah exactly, jus because I never work with inches and just wanna make sure was that! Thanks a lot, great videos :)
bit center have half of bit size, if you use 250 size bit 125 have half this and center have half at round, if u use 1 inch bit center have 0,5 inch. simple. if not understand, draw to paper corner and then X side round and Y side round then u understand this.
I would have never thought about that 8th of an inch this way and an 8th of an inch that way thing. It sounds to me like your dividing 1/8 (what ever bit size is used) by 3 to get .125. I'm terrible at math and would actually have to break out my digital calipers and read the number off of that and divide by 3 to do the same thing.
I did what you said with the code and it did work but I have a question.
Its a great method, but now that your using gsender is it possible to do the mathematical part of it differently in gsender?
I mean is their a different method to do the same thing or do you always have to divide your bit size by 3 AND plug in the code in the console.
Is there another way without plugging in the code. I would never remember that.
Just looking to learn a different way.
AND, you wouldn't consider making a video on how to make macros would you? I haven't seen that kind of video and I see your not one to leave out details.
I would love to be able to turn this procedure into a macro.
Word of advise to my future self...Don't forget to turn on the router!
Iwannaapple, unfortunately yes this is the easiest method. I know the math is tedious! You could always get an autozero touchplate which eliminates the math you'd have to do! Yes I have the video on macros on my to-do list. I'm not sure when I'll have it out yet though!
@@IDCWoodcraft
Eventually I'll get one but I like your method in the meantime. Just used it making my first stacked letter sign for my daughter and her family.
Using your feeds and speeds table it came out great! For 3.5 hours I was glued to every inch watching it cut.
Your bits are great too. Will probably be ordering another very soon.
Oh yeah, I did figure out that using your method and gsender it did eliminate one of the steps just by hitting the xy0 button then I just type in the last command.
@@iwannaapple7190 It's hard not to watch that router do it's stuff isn't it. Almost like watching a campfire .
I was wondering if you could do me a favor. can you leave a review on my website on the products store? They always help.
Oh, and be sure to send me a picture of the project. I'd love to see it!
are you the guy that does the boondocking?
Carey, not sure what you mean brother?
Sorry you looked like a guy that dry camped and made videos
But I’m having a very hard time getting my cnc to cut my project. It starts everywhere it’s all over the place. Then I try to set z and it buries into the bed. I guess you spell. I’m using UGS and I’m putting everything in like I’m watching your videos but still no luck. I don’t know what I’ve done.
You are not sitting on top of your material. You may be 100 um (paper thickness) - 0.01 in below. That is about 150 um. With e.g. aluminum, that is a lot. You need finer steps.
Hi M19. Good point!
@@IDCWoodcraft Subscribed your channel, great work!
gsender has been updated, so your software is outdated. It took me a while to realise that crucial steps in your setup were omitted, preventing me from progressing smoothly. However, grateful as I am, missing steps seems endemic with most presenters.
trumpetflowerll, sorry for the confusion my friend. It can be a challenge to go back and edit every video from when changes were made in the software, but this is definitely something to keep in mind as you watch in the future!
Happy New Year. From a seminar you would have attended, you might recall that you are only as good as your last job? That still is a golden oldie, and I encourage you to incorporate up-to-date information and a script that crosses every T and dots every I. Having taught amateurs and professionals, I know how much work is needed. However, 50 years later, the people I taught remind me of what gratitude means. So, I encourage you and IDC to go the next distance.
It would be a lot quicker and simpler to put a laser pointer or pointed tool in the spindle, line it up and zero.
FredFowler, that is a great idea brother! Try it out in your machine and see how it works.
this guy says he teaches, try to get a lesson with him. GOOD LUCK!!
Robert, I am so sorry about being so busy brother.
If he was a bad teacher he would have lots of availability. Stop being such a jerk…