HOW TO EASILY REPLACE FRONT WHEEL BEARING HUBS ON 12-17 DODGE RAM 4X4 ECODIESEL / HEMI / 1500 / 2500
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- JOIN GASDIESEL GARAGE AS I BRING MY DAILY DRIVEN 2015 DODGE RAM 1500 4X4 ECODIESEL INTO THE SHOP AND SHOW YOU HOW TO REPLACE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS WITHOUT TAKING THE FRONT CV AXLES OUT.
STEP BY STEP PROCESS WITH GREAT VISUAL AIDS. ENJOY!
THIS EPISODE OF GASDIESEL GARAGE WITH SHOW THE COMPLETE PROCESS OF REPLACING THE TIPM AND WATCHING OUT FOR CERTAIN THINGS WHEN REPLACING AND INSTALLING ENJOY!
FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM:
/ gasdieselga. .
FOLLOW ME ON FACEBOOK
/ gasdieselgar. .
Due to factors beyond the control of GASDIESEL GARAGE, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. GASDIESEL GARAGE assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. GASDIESEL GARAGE recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of GASDIESEL GARAGE, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not GASDIESEL GARAGE-SUBSCRIBE-COMMENT AND-LIKE
Thank you your video made it so much easier to replace the wheel bearing hubs on my 2018 Eco diesel ram 1500 with 386,000 miles on it. Every other video showed me doing it a lot harder wig yours made it really easy I finished the driver side at 12:35 AM Pacific time tonight 12/26/24 tomorrow do the passenger side, fast and easy with new brake pads and rotors. Appreciate you doing the video Retired US Army sergeant major Gamsby.
This is one of the best video's that I have seen for repair work. Didn't skip over any steps of the removal or install thanks!
Great video! Few tips for novices like me: ABS and traction control lights came on and shortly after was getting a clunking noise turning at low speeds. Used a OBD2 device and indicated it was front driver ABS sensor, but with research figured it was most likely a bad bearing (due to the clunking) which made the ABS sensor go bad. Found a "fleet" grade hub at NAPA for $98 and a 36mm axle nut for $26. This video is spot on and I didn't have to undo my upper control arm, just pushed the axle back with a sledgehammer often to get at the bearing screws. My bearing screws were 18mm. I used a shorter (not deep) 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joint and large torque wrench for leverage to get them loose (Wisconsin truck) and finished them off with an impact air wrench, miracle #1. Remember lefty loosey. I tried using a 3/8" drive but the universal joints broke, so you really need 1/2" drive. After getting the 3 screws out the hub (steel) was stuck to the knuckle (aluminum) which rusted/fused together. I kept turning the steering wheel to the right and left, giving the hub about 20-30 whacks from behind with a sledgehammer each time, big whacks and slowly but surely it wiggled out (200 whacks or so), miracle #2. Everything went back together pretty easily, I used anti-seize generously, looking up torque specs for all the bolts with a google search. I removed the brake caliber but didn't take the pads off, so I had to use a caliper depressing tool from a previous brake job, that tool has been a great $10 amazon investment, miracle #3. My pads are fairly new, but the caliper tool got the job done. All in all it was about a 4 hour job with about $130 in parts and tools. Local shops were quoting 2hrs labor for about $200 if I brought the hub in. If you've done brakes before, you can probably do this job. An air impact wrench, universal joints, large torque wrench and a 3 ton jack really help out. Good luck!
I’m Canadian. Just priced these bearings out in my town, Nelson BC. $500.00 each at Lordco. $289.00 at Napa. Of course I bought the latter. You’re making it look easier than some videos I’ve seen. Good work and thanks for the help. I’m doing mine this weekend.
Awesome bud
Searched YT sporadically for about 3 hours and came across your video. Impressive content. You have a new subscriber.
I like the fact that you are detailed when you change something very helpful thank you
Obviously not in the Midwest where the roads are salted in the winter! I just changed both wheel bearing on my 2015 Ram 4x4 and had use a 3lb hammer and a sledge hammer to get the old hubs off. I also had great difficulty getting one rotor off. I had to use the 3 pound hammer on that as well along with soaking it overnight with penetrating oil.
@GasDiesel Garage.. Awesome content! I'm a 2015 RAM 1500 SLT 3.6 rear 2WD and you gave some good tips on not having to remove the upper control arm bolts to gain access to the rear of the hub - just push the axle back some.. Thanks for sharing brother 👊🏽
Thank you for making this! I’m supposed to do this to a 1500 tomorrow at class (I’m in automotive) and was worried about it lol.
Absolutely my friend, I’m sure you will do fine. Good luck
i thoroughly enjoy this type of channel
It’s funny cuz I’m driving listening to this, n your noise is in sync with my noise. Ope that answers my question lol
Great video. I need to replace my bearing and this video was very helpful!
Thanks
Great video. Do you know what the torque specs are for the 3 bolts and the nut? Oh and what size that nut is?
A little late but might help the next guy. 36mm axle nut. 120 ft/lbs for the three bolts and 185 ft/lbs for the axle nut.
Good video, here's my two cents. (This is assuming a high mileage truck and standard tools)
You'll probably need to disconnect the upper control arm to get at the bolts on the back of the hub assembly. And you might need a special tool to free the control arm bolt once the nut is off: it's taper fit and can be a bitch to get free.
The 3 bolts on the back of the hub can be a nightmare without power tools. You'll probably need a breaker bar with ratchet attachment. Assuming you're changing a hub assembly that's overdue (probably, if it's clunking), this video leaves out the sledgehammer and copious amounts of force you'll need to get out the old hub assembly. It WILL be fused with corrosion. It can be helpful to reattach the upper control arm so the assembly won't be flopping around when you whack it. Keep at it.
My bolt sizes:
2015 Ram 1500 4WD Big Horn:
13mm for caliper (31ftlb)
21mm for caliper bracket (130ftlb)
36mm for axle nut (185ftlb)
21mm for control arm (40ftlb)
18mm for hub assembly bolts (134ftlb)
Did you torque any of the bolts to spec? Or not necessary?
I don't think mine is this loud but I'm having the same issues w/ the ABS Light coming on. Hoping changing the hub will eliminate it. Thanks for the video
Absolutely and I believe it will correct your problem.
@@Gasdieselgarage When my front shocks were changed at the dealer on my 2015 Big Horn Ecodiesel. The ABS Traction Contol light came on with the rear passenger tire would skip when starting from a stop or turning. Dealer said it was the right front speed sensor and hub. They claimed to have changed it but my experience in the past with warranty work suggests they didn’t do the repairs.
I am buying a set of Timken wheel hubs. Hope it solves the problems.
@@boostimalaka1 well unfortunately dealership warranty work can be a 50/50 decision on certain work and yes dealership mechanics get paid less doing warranty work. I do hope by you doing it yourself it will work out better. I worked dealership for 10 years out of my career so I know how they work. It sucks. I will help you in any way I can my friend.
THANK YOU FOR THE LESSON!
very well put together repair!
Beautiful work.
Is it a 43MM/ 1-11/16" 6-point impact socket thanks
My 2015 ram took a “36mm” axle socket....6 point ....hope this helps
I have a 2015 Ecodiesel abs light 4x4 disabled has come on numerous times rear tire is skipping. The dealership said they replaced the front right wheel hub. Apparently they didn’t, problem still with lights going on and off.
The dealership hired a new service manager, he was able to research my service records. He claims they replaced the wiring this time. The howling noise started soon after. It was the left driver side. Watched another RUclips channel for a 2015 Ecodiesel and purchased the same part he used. Dealerships sure can be very shady!
What's the torque specifications on the center axle bolt? And also (just asking) when one side goes shouldn't you replace both fronts?? I have a bad passenger side one as well and my buddy said change them both cause the other one isn't far behind but it seems fine...
184 foot lbs for axle bolt.
What size socket for that large center nut?
Thanks for the teaching info.
All music Thanks for the Detail
I just did this on a 2015 Ram 1500 Sport and the wheel hub nut is 35mm[not 36mm]; the 3 bolts on the hub are 18mm[not 21mm] (mine were frozen so bad that a 1,000 lbs air impact driver couldn’t get them off). Hope this helps someone who has the same as mine. I looked all over for a 21mm only to find it was too big. Maybe the “21” was some code I don’t know about, in which case, I would look ridiculous for this entire comment…?
Good update bud
I had tire, caliper and rotor off before I realized I did not have a 18mm socket.
Two different socket sets and they both go from 17mm to 19mm no 18, back to NAPA one more time.
@@shamrock241r8 Exact same thing happened to me.
GREAT JOB MY FRIEND.
keep them coming bro!!!!!!
Great video except the 2 minute long intro I just about passed along to the next one.
Thank you
Great Job
How many miles on the truck?
It literally just hit 100k miles
Is the process the same for a 2wd truck?
Great video
Yep it should be....
2wd truck you don't have to fuss with the CV axle so should be much easier.
I noticed you have the jack in place at 9:40. What are you using the jack for ?
I put it here to help align the axle into the wheel bearing on installation...it’s much easier having the drive axle horizontally than hanging...but you can do it either way.
@@Gasdieselgarage thank you so much this has been really helpful !
No torque specs for the axle nut? Just 3 ugga duggas??
It's called German tight, pronounced "Good n Tight"
12:41 I was a little anxious here.
nice mate
I've replaced the wheel bearing and installed a different set of tires and that hasn't fixed the issue. I still have the vibration, even with turning the wheel one inch. I often get vibration on the steering shaft that is noisy. Any tips are appreciated!
An alignment
If the wheels/rims are aftermarket most likely they're universal hub boar that will fit numerous vehicles you will need to get centric hub rings
A wheel bearing that just falls out of the spindle ? Without a puller,bolts or hammer?
Surprising huh? 🤔
😂@@Gasdieselgarage
Yeah...removing that bearing is usually the most interesting part for me. I'm always looking for the smartest guy on that.
Is this the same process for the 4x2 trucks?
Yes, just easier on a 2wd due to no front axles.
What about the rear hub bearing. I could swear that my noise is coming from the back. Do the rear bearings ever go out?
Yes, but they usually last 2 to 3 times as much as the front ones. There is less stress on them.
great video, Thank you
Ty my friend
Great video thank you, very helpful
Ty for the kind words my friend!
Man, I hope you torqued that axle nut to spec. If you didn’t, that will cause premature failure on the wheel bearings.
My old wheel bearing won't un glue from the nuckle...3 bolts removed...
Hit with sledge hammer behind wheel nut hub.... 50 times...
2005 1500 Rumble Bee.
Used Brake Clean & WD 40 and chisels to try start the separation.. Nothing.
Might have to let that penetrating oil sit over night if it's that bad.
I just changed my front drivers side, had tire, caliper and rotor off before I realized
I did not have a 18mm socket to remove wheel hub.
Soaked edge of hub and bolts that night, by the next day one tap with the sledge and it came off.
@@shamrock241r8 I ended up using the A1Auto suggestion of cutting two wheel bolts out and doing the reverse bolt trick.
Also bought extra 18mm 3/8 & 1/2 drive sockets and a chisel set.
As I never popped a ball joint to swing knuckle out it was a little more difficult to fit the ratchets.
Swinging the Steering helped with the access.
With WD40 applied the night before, the bolts creating pressure, the chisels once I was able to create a crack between knuckle and old bearing housing....my sledge hammer did the rest.
It was easier removing my old front differential and replacing with a rebuilt last month.
Hey gasdiesel garage. I have a little video of the noise my truck is making. Similar. Any way you can reach out to me and I can get your opinion?
Yes absolutely….email me your video ….I can take a look…. GasdieselGarage@gmail.com
@@Gasdieselgarage it's saying the file is too large.
I added the video on my RUclips. Please have look when I get a chance. Thanks
Must be a southern Ram. I've done this about 5 times on different Ram trucks. Suckers rust welded on. LOL
What size bolts hold the wheel bearing?
15mm socket for the 3 bolts holding the wheel bearing in the hub
i bet that noise was annoying as hell....lol
Great job, can you come do mine? 😊
What size is the middle nut!! thanks
36mm 6 point socket
Those wheel bearings don’t just pop off wtf lol.
Nice Torque Wrench.
Should you replace both of the front ones if one is bad? Isn't the other one probably worn out too?
If your budget will allow, yes of course do both. But those wheel bearings are not cheap unfortunately.
Ok cool, I guess the don't fix what isn't broken saying applies here haha.. I have the same issue, thanks for the video it gave me confidence that I could just do it myself
@@pimpdaddyk03 oh absolutely you can do it bud. It’s pretty much why I did the video lol
Work it is bro
How is this applicable to a 2500?
very different beast.
4 Minutes and 41 seconds until I see the wheel bearing?..or the Hub??...Talk about content!!..lol
Couldn't help but notice no torque wrench...
German torque spec. Goodentight. LOL
So Easy?... my 2012 with less than 100k on it must be the exception ...after trying to slide hammer it off for hours ...ended up removing the whole knuckle and taking to machine shop where they claimed it took 30,000 psi on the press and full heat to get it out ... they almost gave up...so easy.... bahahahahaha...
This guy got lucky. The ways yours went is how most are lol.
Just so you guys don't do what I did, my truck doesn't take a 36 mm socket that I just bought for this. I have to find out what size mine is, so check before you buy.
Sorry I was wrong, the 36mm socket bottomed out on the axle bolt, I had a normal socket then I got a deep dish 36mm and it worked.
I camt with that god awful music.
Thank you
❤️