Great video! Few tips for novices like me: ABS and traction control lights came on and shortly after was getting a clunking noise turning at low speeds. Used a OBD2 device and indicated it was front driver ABS sensor, but with research figured it was most likely a bad bearing (due to the clunking) which made the ABS sensor go bad. Found a "fleet" grade hub at NAPA for $98 and a 36mm axle nut for $26. This video is spot on and I didn't have to undo my upper control arm, just pushed the axle back with a sledgehammer often to get at the bearing screws. My bearing screws were 18mm. I used a shorter (not deep) 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joint and large torque wrench for leverage to get them loose (Wisconsin truck) and finished them off with an impact air wrench, miracle #1. Remember lefty loosey. I tried using a 3/8" drive but the universal joints broke, so you really need 1/2" drive. After getting the 3 screws out the hub (steel) was stuck to the knuckle (aluminum) which rusted/fused together. I kept turning the steering wheel to the right and left, giving the hub about 20-30 whacks from behind with a sledgehammer each time, big whacks and slowly but surely it wiggled out (200 whacks or so), miracle #2. Everything went back together pretty easily, I used anti-seize generously, looking up torque specs for all the bolts with a google search. I removed the brake caliber but didn't take the pads off, so I had to use a caliper depressing tool from a previous brake job, that tool has been a great $10 amazon investment, miracle #3. My pads are fairly new, but the caliper tool got the job done. All in all it was about a 4 hour job with about $130 in parts and tools. Local shops were quoting 2hrs labor for about $200 if I brought the hub in. If you've done brakes before, you can probably do this job. An air impact wrench, universal joints, large torque wrench and a 3 ton jack really help out. Good luck!
A little late to the party but you don't need to take the caliper apart unless your doing a brake job as well. Just take out the caliper bracket bolts and leave the pads and piston assembled. One less step.
Only if all DIY videos were this precise and efficient... my left front wheel started schreeching randomly at low speeds and on the fwy and im pretty sure its the wheel bearing. So anyday now im going to be picking up a 30 rack of rolling stone and getting her done... cheers!
Ha. I was just watching this and telling my wife 36mm didn't sound right. I was confused. Also wondering if pulling the upper ball joint is necessary ?
Must be a year discrepancy-I just did mine -had to go pick up a socket asked for a 36mm and NAPA checked their book saying it’s 35mm- 35 didn’t work it was a 36mm after all.. just an FYI for anyone
Thank you thank you for this video. I watched a few times to be sure I was doing it correctly or somewhat close. I am by no means a auto mechanic. However, this video allowed me to get my truck up and running so I can provide for my family. Thanks and thanks for also including the tools needed
Can't be the only one ; but I'll say it THANK YOU.. for not saying "OK FRIENDS" Every 32.5 seconds like the other guy. I dont even own a dodge. I'm a chevy guy, work for Mack Volvo. I was just so ecstatic to see a 1AAuto person not repeating those terrible terrible words that I kept watching. This is a pretty standard job on almost any truck/suv; only the socket size might change. But again ; thank you dear lord for not having some repetitive catch phrase like your "buddy"....😅
To mirror what the others have said, thank you SO much for a great video. Helped me knock out this job for the first time. As for what others have said about the axle nut, my 2015 was a 35mm, but the bolts holding the assembly in place took an 18mm. Minor discrepancies between model years. And yes, I had to beat the hell out of the old assembly to get it off, as well. Thanks again!
Fyi this job can be done without removing the upper ball joint or any linkages. Just need to push in the cv axle each time with combo of turning the wheel to get the socket in behind the wheel. Makes for a easier DIY job.. Edit: my 2014 big horn ecodiesel 4x4 had a 36mm axle Nut
Thank you for the thorough explanation. I was able to follow along and successfully get the job done. Just fyi I’ve seen a lot of back and forth comments about the axel nut, I have a 2015 1500 Outdoorsman 4x4 and the axel nut was 36mm like he stated in the video.
Good evening, first of all, Tania, thank you for this wonderful video and the method of disassembly and installation. I benefited a lot from it today in maintaining a customer's car in the workshop. Thank you once again.. Greetings from Libya.
Great video! Allowed me to replace the bearing hubs and brakes on my 2014 Ram 2WD. FYI: on my truck the three hub bolts were 18mm not 21mm, not sure if that is due to it being 2WD. You should label this as changing hubs and a brake job too, you have to remove and replace the brakes to get to the hubs.
Thanks. Steps are pretty much the same for a 06 2500. 2wd is a little less-involved in that ya don't have to separate the ball joint because the CV joint doesn't get in the way being that it doesn't exist on a 2wd. The 3 hub bolts are easy enough to get to by turning the steering wheel to one stop and then the other. Easier to torque em too because you can stand next to the fender and hoss on em more confidently. Thanks again for posting this vid!
This man just saved me ALOT of money! I didnt know it was this easy to replace. I just which he had done it on a 2WD Dodge Ram 1500. I have a 2WD, and its built a little diferent from the Ram in the video. His is a 4WD obviously, as it has an axel. Mine don't. There is no knuckle through that hole. Just a hole.
Having a VERY hard time getting the old hub/bearing assembly off of the arm. Seems like it's possibly rusted up in the hole. Have been using a small sledge hammer, no significant luck so far (I will use a very light coat of oil when install the new Hub/Bearing assembly). Any suggestions?? Can he CV axle be removed from the hub/bearing/spline hole to I might be able to get something in behind the backside of the hub/bearing to hit it out with a hammer and maybe a short, flat punch? Had a very hard time removing the 3 hub/bearing bolts out as well; will be using some oil or very light grease to make sure these can be removed easier later if needed. Suggestions very appreciated!
My issues exactly... End of bolts rusted...tried cleaning them and used Brake Clean & WD 40. After bolts removed the old wheel bearing seemed like it was welded to the nuckle.
Great vid, just saved a ton doing this in my Laneway. Be prepared for and patient with the number of hammer blows its going to take. And Mark Egbers, thanks for the socket tip, 35mm is correct.
You NEED to specify in the title that this is for a 2WD/4WD and indicate the differences in the video. There are obvious differences between the 2WD and the 4WD. Obviously, no axle nut and no axle on a 2WD and finding a leverage point to compress the spring by pulling down on the upper control arm was a bit challenging as my pry bar kept slipping. Otherwise, great video and helped me great deal. Easy to do overall.
I’ve changed it twice now. One time it was autozone brand the second time it was a Timken. I changed both of the front hubs. Front calipers rotors and pads. Front upper control arms cuz the ball joins we’re shot. Changed the rear pads and calipers and still got the same problem again. The car clunks sometimes when I brake and the ABS light turns on and I don’t have ABS anymore. Any suggestions I’m all ears.
hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Thing is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself after replacing a wheel hub and it's sensor?, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
Please, can you guys do videos on Ram Promasters. There is problems with the transmission and other issues and barely any videos on this cargo van. Thanks.
I've replaced the wheel bearing and installed a different set of tires and that hasn't fixed the issue. I still have the vibration, even with turning the wheel one inch. I often get vibration on the steering shaft that is noisy. Any tips are appreciated!
Check the cv axle and the spline gear at the differential. I had the same problem and it was the differential spline was worn out causing the vibration
Mine is a 2013 longhorn 4x4. Everything was similar but the hub bolts weren't 21mm.... 17mm was too small and 19mm was too big. I called it a day and I'll buy a 18mm tomorrow. Wonder why mine were different
could be the caliper pistons are corroded , and not sliding back into position after being applied. Water that got into the brake fluid reservoir settled into the caliper, rusting the piston inside. Sliders may be rusted too and ungreased.
Please not that not all trucks have a 21mm bolt head holding the hub, mine is a 2014 and i have 18mm, everything else is the same 21 and 36..thanks for the video huge help
Instead of removing knuckle bolt try this, go to the 2 minute mark and start there, worked great for me. After just turn the wheel to one side and you can reach the hub bolts. ruclips.net/video/uQfA38b5fT0/видео.html
If You grab the balljoint and it feels loose You should replace it, I replaced both hub/bearing a couple of days ago , checked all balljoints and I decides to replace them all.
+Josh V Thanks for watching! The code should clear by itself if that is your problem. Sometimes you need to drive the vehicle around for a bit after installation so the computer can clear it.
+manuel morales The wheel bearings for the 2WD and 4WD are not interchangeable, they will be different. You can put in your year, make, and model into our website and sort by drive type to see the bearings that will fit your particular year. 1aauto.com
I have 2013 Ram 1500 4wd, and I've been experiencing the ABS kicking in when I apply the brake, and the truck is shifting all over the place, I have been told that it could be a bad wheel bearing not making good contact with the speed sensor and cause ABS and shift problems, I have No lights on my dash. Does this sound like a bad wheel bearing or should I get it further looked at? Any help from anyone would be great
+Jamie Smith Thanks for checking us out! There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts and how-to videos needed for your repair.
@@1AAuto An old video but great, very informative. I hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Things is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
Great video. Fought with my 2012 Ram all weekend trying to push the axle out of the hub. Hammer, puller/press, penetrating fluid. Didn’t move at all. Advice??
Your tool list is wrong for the 2015 Dodge Ram it’s a 35mm axle nut not 36mm and also the bolts on the back of the wheel hub are an 18mm. It would have been nice to have the right parts list instead of having to go back out and buy the right stuff. Other then that good video
Ok it just tapping off is not realistic not needing to remove the cv axle also not realistic in the process of removing the bearing now and it took lots of heat to remove and a big hammer
I didn't have anything to heat it with. Had to give up after spending a whole day, lots of penetrating oil, slide hammer, Bruye force, etc. Turned in the towel and took the entire knuckle to a mechanic. They had it off in about 5 minutes. 😭
I started about 11am on my 2500 2wd. It's 3pm now and if be finished if I hadn't had to get up off the cold concrete and let my hips warm up. So about 4hr with gulf coast rust.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Great video! Few tips for novices like me: ABS and traction control lights came on and shortly after was getting a clunking noise turning at low speeds. Used a OBD2 device and indicated it was front driver ABS sensor, but with research figured it was most likely a bad bearing (due to the clunking) which made the ABS sensor go bad. Found a "fleet" grade hub at NAPA for $98 and a 36mm axle nut for $26. This video is spot on and I didn't have to undo my upper control arm, just pushed the axle back with a sledgehammer often to get at the bearing screws. My bearing screws were 18mm. I used a shorter (not deep) 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joint and large torque wrench for leverage to get them loose (Wisconsin truck) and finished them off with an impact air wrench, miracle #1. Remember lefty loosey. I tried using a 3/8" drive but the universal joints broke, so you really need 1/2" drive. After getting the 3 screws out the hub (steel) was stuck to the knuckle (aluminum) which rusted/fused together. I kept turning the steering wheel to the right and left, giving the hub about 20-30 whacks from behind with a sledgehammer each time, big whacks and slowly but surely it wiggled out (200 whacks or so), miracle #2. Everything went back together pretty easily, I used anti-seize generously, looking up torque specs for all the bolts with a google search. I removed the brake caliber but didn't take the pads off, so I had to use a caliper depressing tool from a previous brake job, that tool has been a great $10 amazon investment, miracle #3. My pads are fairly new, but the caliper tool got the job done. All in all it was about a 4 hour job with about $130 in parts and tools. Local shops were quoting 2hrs labor for about $200 if I brought the hub in. If you've done brakes before, you can probably do this job. An air impact wrench, universal joints, large torque wrench and a 3 ton jack really help out. Good luck!
A little late to the party but you don't need to take the caliper apart unless your doing a brake job as well. Just take out the caliper bracket bolts and leave the pads and piston assembled. One less step.
Wow! That came off easy. Must be a Southern Ram.
Only if all DIY videos were this precise and efficient... my left front wheel started schreeching randomly at low speeds and on the fwy and im pretty sure its the wheel bearing. So anyday now im going to be picking up a 30 rack of rolling stone and getting her done... cheers!
FYI, the 36mm socket is incorrect. Got me in a pickle since the nut is a 35mm. Had to wait for the wife to come home so I had a car to go get one.
Ha. I was just watching this and telling my wife 36mm didn't sound right. I was confused. Also wondering if pulling the upper ball joint is necessary ?
Thanks for posting this reply. I was going to pick up a 36mm today. You just saved me an extra trip to town.
Must be a year discrepancy-I just did mine -had to go pick up a socket asked for a 36mm and NAPA checked their book saying it’s 35mm- 35 didn’t work it was a 36mm after all.. just an FYI for anyone
My 2014 1500 4x4 was also a 36mm.
My 2015 Outdoorsman 4x4 was a 36mm
Thank you thank you for this video. I watched a few times to be sure I was doing it correctly or somewhat close.
I am by no means a auto mechanic. However, this video allowed me to get my truck up and running so I can provide for my family. Thanks and thanks for also including the tools needed
Can't be the only one ; but I'll say it THANK YOU.. for not saying "OK FRIENDS" Every 32.5 seconds like the other guy. I dont even own a dodge. I'm a chevy guy, work for Mack Volvo. I was just so ecstatic to see a 1AAuto person not repeating those terrible terrible words that I kept watching. This is a pretty standard job on almost any truck/suv; only the socket size might change. But again ; thank you dear lord for not having some repetitive catch phrase like your "buddy"....😅
+Bret Jefferson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
To mirror what the others have said, thank you SO much for a great video. Helped me knock out this job for the first time. As for what others have said about the axle nut, my 2015 was a 35mm, but the bolts holding the assembly in place took an 18mm. Minor discrepancies between model years. And yes, I had to beat the hell out of the old assembly to get it off, as well. Thanks again!
Fyi this job can be done without removing the upper ball joint or any linkages.
Just need to push in the cv axle each time with combo of turning the wheel to get the socket in behind the wheel.
Makes for a easier DIY job..
Edit: my 2014 big horn ecodiesel 4x4 had a 36mm axle Nut
I was wondering the same thing and thought it didnt seem necessary.
Thanks for pointing that out.
@@operationNOBO
No problem. Working from home you want things to go as smooth as possible lol
easier to use a c clamp with and old pad. place the clamp in the middle and tiighten it down, it pushes both in at the same time.
Thank you for the thorough explanation. I was able to follow along and successfully get the job done. Just fyi I’ve seen a lot of back and forth comments about the axel nut, I have a 2015 1500 Outdoorsman 4x4 and the axel nut was 36mm like he stated in the video.
Thanks a lot for increasing my automatic experience. This wasn’t difficult to tackle
Good evening, first of all, Tania, thank you for this wonderful video and the method of disassembly and installation. I benefited a lot from it today in maintaining a customer's car in the workshop. Thank you once again.. Greetings from Libya.
Great video! Allowed me to replace the bearing hubs and brakes on my 2014 Ram 2WD. FYI: on my truck the three hub bolts were 18mm not 21mm, not sure if that is due to it being 2WD. You should label this as changing hubs and a brake job too, you have to remove and replace the brakes to get to the hubs.
Excellent video, very well done and thorough. Saved me a few hundred dollars 😊
1994 to 2002 - 43mm or 1¾"
2003 to 2024 - 35mm or 1⅜"/ 36mm if its an aftermarket parts axle nut.
My 2006 w/ original axles took a 36mm.
Thanks. Steps are pretty much the same for a 06 2500. 2wd is a little less-involved in that ya don't have to separate the ball joint because the CV joint doesn't get in the way being that it doesn't exist on a 2wd. The 3 hub bolts are easy enough to get to by turning the steering wheel to one stop and then the other. Easier to torque em too because you can stand next to the fender and hoss on em more confidently. Thanks again for posting this vid!
+Bill Priday Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Are the 2wd hubs the same as the 4WD hubs? Thanks in advance
Do you guys have a video on the rear hub and bearing by chance? Can’t seem to find any videos on that.
Why not take the caliper bracket off instead of taking it apart
Because he slapped on new rotors and new brake pads. He didn't go into detail about that part but you can clearly see that towards the end.
So this is the extensive solution for the ABS, SERV4WD and traction control lights showing up and a front wheel with up and down play?
Yes
Just changed out my wheel bearing! Thank you for the help!
@1A AUTO.. Awesome content.. I appreciate the level of detail on step by step, and how you explain the why you're doing what you're doing.
Thx for the video. Just my 2c, this is way more complicated than it should have been.
+ED DE Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
This man just saved me ALOT of money! I didnt know it was this easy to replace. I just which he had done it on a 2WD Dodge Ram 1500.
I have a 2WD, and its built a little diferent from the Ram in the video. His is a 4WD obviously, as it has an axel. Mine don't.
There is no knuckle through that hole. Just a hole.
+Judah Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I am familiar with doing this on other vehicles but need to do my Ram today and am now prepared. This is helpful and just passing on a big Thanks.
Having a VERY hard time getting the old hub/bearing assembly off of the arm. Seems like it's possibly rusted up in the hole. Have been using a small sledge hammer, no significant luck so far (I will use a very light coat of oil when install the new Hub/Bearing assembly). Any suggestions?? Can he CV axle be removed from the hub/bearing/spline hole to I might be able to get something in behind the backside of the hub/bearing to hit it out with a hammer and maybe a short, flat punch?
Had a very hard time removing the 3 hub/bearing bolts out as well; will be using some oil or very light grease to make sure these can be removed easier later if needed. Suggestions very appreciated!
My issues exactly...
End of bolts rusted...tried cleaning them and used Brake Clean & WD 40.
After bolts removed the old wheel bearing seemed like it was welded to the nuckle.
great video very well done sir. clean and simple
Got this job coming up on my 2017 ram hubs, rotors hoping this is what is causing the wheel wabble
Thanks for posting this. Helpful!
great video, A1 is my go to for mechanical instruction, BUT the brake caliper sliders were not greased in this video.
Great vid, just saved a ton doing this in my Laneway. Be prepared for and patient with the number of hammer blows its going to take. And Mark Egbers, thanks for the socket tip, 35mm is correct.
+rtwoteabag Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
+rtwoteabag Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
You NEED to specify in the title that this is for a 2WD/4WD and indicate the differences in the video. There are obvious differences between the 2WD and the 4WD. Obviously, no axle nut and no axle on a 2WD and finding a leverage point to compress the spring by pulling down on the upper control arm was a bit challenging as my pry bar kept slipping. Otherwise, great video and helped me great deal. Easy to do overall.
Agree, but not deceptive in any way...pleasant surprise with a 2wd, having less to do!
Do I torque the wheel hub assembly bolts to 130 ft lbs on a 2014 2wd drive ram 1500?
I’ve changed it twice now. One time it was autozone brand the second time it was a Timken. I changed both of the front hubs. Front calipers rotors and pads. Front upper control arms cuz the ball joins we’re shot. Changed the rear pads and calipers and still got the same problem again. The car clunks sometimes when I brake and the ABS light turns on and I don’t have ABS anymore. Any suggestions I’m all ears.
Is it possible that i can do this with out taking the upper control arm ball joint?
Your videos are top notch, very informative and so helpful. Thanks for putting them up and helping people like myself
hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Thing is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself after replacing a wheel hub and it's sensor?, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
Question..... can I swap the 5 bolt hub for a 6 bolt hub, so I can use an OEM newer model wheels?
Please, can you guys do videos on Ram Promasters. There is problems with the transmission and other issues and barely any videos on this cargo van. Thanks.
Google IVECO Daily, the european version, more common.
Is it necessary to get an alignment after changing the hub ?
No. The hub has nothing to do with suspension alignment.
so after replacing a wheel bearing on a dodge you have to get a front end alignment too?
Video was great, keep it up guys thanks
Well explain ty great job 👍👍👍
What size bolts connect the Knuckle and wheel bearing
Are there any code(s) associated with this repair?
You don’t need to take the pads off. Just remove the whole caliper
Is it necessary to get an alignment after this ?
No alignment needed. Had mine done today. Dodge said alignment was not needed.
Would have been good time to lube caliber pins inside boots.
Great video but on my 2016 Bighorn I did not have a CV axle so it was kind of easier needless to say but thanks for the video
+Maurice Hoover Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video! Very informative and thorough.
+Steve Klitzing Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
“Just pull it out”. Only if it was that easy
Do you need alignment after changing the bearing? Thanks
No.
Yes, yes, and yes!
I've replaced the wheel bearing and installed a different set of tires and that hasn't fixed the issue. I still have the vibration, even with turning the wheel one inch. I often get vibration on the steering shaft that is noisy. Any tips are appreciated!
Check the cv axle and the spline gear at the differential. I had the same problem and it was the differential spline was worn out causing the vibration
Mine is a 2013 longhorn 4x4. Everything was similar but the hub bolts weren't 21mm.... 17mm was too small and 19mm was too big. I called it a day and I'll buy a 18mm tomorrow. Wonder why mine were different
18mm on a 06 2500, too. Might've been some sort of supply issue. Dodge has always been known for that lol
Old video so I hope I get a reply ……. Slight squealing noise when driving. New pads and rotors. Would this be what is making the noise now? Thank you.
could be the caliper pistons are corroded , and not sliding back into position after being applied. Water that got into the brake fluid reservoir settled into the caliper, rusting the piston inside. Sliders may be rusted too and ungreased.
Excellent video
+heath webster Thanks for the feedback!
Awesome video!!!!
Would you happen to have a link for the tool that you used to separate the ball joint from the knuckle?
+Alex Lampasona We currently do not carry the tool you are looking for. Thank you for checking us out!
@@1AAuto could you recommend a tool that would work similarly?
Use a hammer like everyother mechanic.... LOL
just don't separate it
U truly don't even need it
Great video, thank you.
Good show! Thanks for sharing!
I did everthing as the video, change my front left hub took it for a test drive but still hear noises help
Are 2wd hubs the same as 4wd hubs?
Please not that not all trucks have a 21mm bolt head holding the hub, mine is a 2014 and i have 18mm, everything else is the same 21 and 36..thanks for the video huge help
+Casey Sheaffer Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah, my 2015 is the same. Of course thats the one socket i didnt have.
I have a 2015 Ram and my bolts that hold the hub at the back are 18mm not 21mm.
Instead of removing knuckle bolt try this, go to the 2 minute mark and start there, worked great for me. After just turn the wheel to one side and you can reach the hub bolts. ruclips.net/video/uQfA38b5fT0/видео.html
That’s not the same vehicle.
I have done this on my 2016 ram 4x4. And yes you can do it without removing knuckle.
If I'm replacing my hub/bearings at 100k, should I replace my upper control arm/upper ball joint while I'm at it?
If You grab the balljoint and it feels loose You should replace it, I replaced both hub/bearing a couple of days ago , checked all balljoints and I decides to replace them all.
Will the abs light go out after replacing the bad hub? Or do I have to clear the code?
+Josh V Thanks for watching! The code should clear by itself if that is your problem. Sometimes you need to drive the vehicle around for a bit after installation so the computer can clear it.
Thanks great video
Doing mine in the morning
Very informative 👍
+Greg Poppele Thanks for checking us out! 1aauto.com
Took less then 2 hours came out great couldn’t of done it without you
! Thanks again!
Thanks Andy
Saved me almost 500 dollars
Mechanic down the road quote me that price!
Everything was looking good till you double click the torque wrench which change the torque on the bolt.
This is for a 4 wheel drive ? A two wheel drive doesn’t have a cv joint? Right?
+Joe Parker Correct. There are no axels on the front of the 2WD model. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Are the parts the same for a 2 wd ram or are they different
+manuel morales The wheel bearings for the 2WD and 4WD are not interchangeable, they will be different. You can put in your year, make, and model into our website and sort by drive type to see the bearings that will fit your particular year. 1aauto.com
Good I did mine today thanks for help
+Bejaia Gouraya Thanks for checking us out!
All I can say is I will never get a dodge again
Maaaan you aren't kidding, nothing but junk. Got my first one after 3 Chevy and 2 Fords, Chevy will be my next truck again
Same part from the same vendor but cheaper on amazon...why?
How do u remove a hub bearing from a 2009 Mazda 6
Instead of taking the caliper assembly off separate from the cradle couldn’t you just take the cradle off with the caliper attached?
Yes. That’s what I did. Saves a little time as well.
I have 2013 Ram 1500 4wd, and I've been experiencing the ABS kicking in when I apply the brake, and the truck is shifting all over the place, I have been told that it could be a bad wheel bearing not making good contact with the speed sensor and cause ABS and shift problems, I have No lights on my dash. Does this sound like a bad wheel bearing or should I get it further looked at? Any help from anyone would be great
+Jamie Smith Thanks for checking us out! There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause. Once you know the cause, we'll be happy to see if we carry the parts and how-to videos needed for your repair.
@@1AAuto An old video but great, very informative. I hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Things is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
I put the dust shield in backwards and had to do the whole job twice
Apparently you've never worked flat rate or in the Rust Belt
Great video.
Fought with my 2012 Ram all weekend trying to push the axle out of the hub. Hammer, puller/press, penetrating fluid. Didn’t move at all.
Advice??
Did you get it to break free? I'd say just letting the fluid work its way into the splines for a day or two would get it to go.
Very helpful
Your tool list is wrong for the 2015 Dodge Ram it’s a 35mm axle nut not 36mm and also the bolts on the back of the wheel hub are an 18mm. It would have been nice to have the right parts list instead of having to go back out and buy the right stuff. Other then that good video
+Brandon Wood Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
Awesome video, thank you.🙂
+Heather Thanks for checking us out!
Ok it just tapping off is not realistic not needing to remove the cv axle also not realistic in the process of removing the bearing now and it took lots of heat to remove and a big hammer
I didn't have anything to heat it with. Had to give up after spending a whole day, lots of penetrating oil, slide hammer, Bruye force, etc. Turned in the towel and took the entire knuckle to a mechanic. They had it off in about 5 minutes. 😭
My axle nut was 35mm also
The bolts on my bracket are welded shut. Any tips on loosening?
The Art of Daniel torch it 🤷🏽♂️
Let sit for a wile in wd40 then soak it again and again, hit it with a torch, but do not put the flame on the bolt head.
Angle grinder if no torch
How long does this take ?
I started about 11am on my 2500 2wd. It's 3pm now and if be finished if I hadn't had to get up off the cold concrete and let my hips warm up. So about 4hr with gulf coast rust.
Why not take the whole caliper off why take the caliper appart
+Andrew Denine Thanks for watching! That way you do not have to take the hose off which will lead you to have to bleed the system.
Seem like the same job i had to do on my old jeep liberty 2006
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Awesome
Just take the caliper bracket off only
My car doesn't have that nut. Its hollow
Because it is a 2wd
Way too many extra steps for nothing.
+Mark Gosselin Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto there's no need to disassemble the caliper. I would never recommend that from someone doing it at home.
+Mark Gosselin Thanks for the feedback!
18 mm
This isn't a rwd cause they don't have cv axles in the front
You did too many steps
Is separating the control arm necessary?