Please keep the videos going on this project showing us what the end result is. I got a super k as well, I imagine its the same minus the outriggers on those european/austrailian versions being a lot different. I personally would always powerwash the crap out of the areas your going to disassemble before working on it if its me, but good job so far. The drain bolt for the transaxle is on the passenger side (right side). Its a flush bolt that is a allen key. Possible its hidden in grime. One suggestion I didn't do that was suggested to me after I already did a transaxle drain and fill was to put a magnet inside the pickup screen to help catch metal particles....sounds like a good idea, but I guess be carefull the magnet wouldn't get sucked up into the hose/line is all I would think would be concern for doing that.
Hi Tyler, and welcome!! Thanks to your tip, I did locate the drain bung (woo hoo!!!). Yep, it was buried deep under mud! Thanks again! The idea of attaching magnets is a very good one, however, I usually place them on the side of the filter (engine, hydraulics, transmission), and swap them to the new filter each service (Kinda' works just as well, I think?). As I mentioned in the vid', due to parts and time, I won't be able to upload a vid on this project every week. Would you prefer sporadic video's, or prefer I leave it for a while and upload all vid's as a series once it's complete? I might propose this question in my next video. Thanks again for the support!
We did a little bit to it mate. Went a different direction to what I first thought but still made progress and a video. It will be a series of episodes the build of that one I’d say
Thanks for your hard work I have 580 SK I need to do brake job on it case wants $10,600 probably more they said so definitely do my self Dave in Missouri USA
Hi Pete, enjoyed the video, How much do you think it will cost for parts to fix the damage....including oil / new filter etc etc, what do you think it would cost if a shop did it for you.......Also do you think there could potentially be other issues caused to other parts due to metal fragments flowing through the system?
Hi Todd, thanks for the questions. There's a huge variant on the 'parts cost' as it depends on what failed and in what way did it fail. Filters are anywhere between $50 and $200(ish) depending on where you get them from. Genuine TC and charge pump came to around $1500 from the wreckers. Genuine parts are no longer made, but China and India can supply new, if you enjoy 'rolling the dice'! I bought a 205 liter drum of oil for around $1200 and used about 60 liters for the trans. New park brake discs were about $150. Service brakes and shuttle clutch packs were still in good order, so I didn't change them out. In theory, as soon as the TC fail's, you've lost drive and therefore, no metal fragments are being pushed around the gearbox. So it kinda saves itself there a little bit. That said, I did completely strip and clean every single component I could find...just to be sure!! Also consider that if the bearings and brakes / clutch packs are worn, the cost of repair will escalate accordingly. Not sure how long it would take a workshop to do this job. Again, it kinda depends on if the guy has done one before, and how well the shop is 'set up' for this. I did this in my backyard during weekends, and having never done one before. I also took extra time to set up camera's, lights and of course 'hair and makeup' (Ha ha!). If you're thinking of doing this job yourself, the Case workshop manuals are exceptionally good!! Hope this helps! Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed answer Pete. I was going to buy an older backhoe to do some work on a piece of property I have but I see there is more involved than just filters and oil changes. Might save up a bit more money to buy a better machine as lots of the ones I looked at where used in construction so used and abused = more repairs....Don't want to become a full time mechanic. @@pete-mate3524
Hey pete, i was draining my 580sk transmission today the way you did it but the inlet pipe just before the screen moves but it won't come out? Does it screw out? Or do i need more muscle? Thanks in advance, I just love the way you dig in and go for it.
Hi Mary, so apparently, there is a drain bung on the other side of the gearbox, however, probably not a bad idea to check & clean the 'pick-up' screen while you're doing an oil change. On my machine, that screen simply pushes into a tube inside the trans'. This plastic screen also has an '0' ring on it, so there may be some resistance with that. The tube is an elbow shaped bit of pipe (about 2 foot long) that has one 'mount tag' about half way down the pipe. So it may just be out of alignment a little bit. A bit of twisting and wiggleing should be all that's needed. In one of the later video's, I have the whole trans' apart and you can see exactly what I'm talking about. Hope this helps, and good luck with it!!!
Good stuff. I own a backhoe too, always love watching repair videos.
Thanks Kevin, really happy to hear that you're enjoying it!! Thanks for the support!! :-)
Thanks we need more of this kind of video where people just dig in
Thanks Mary, happy to see you're enjoying the content!
youve got a great sense of humor!
Thanks Bob!!
Nice to see work on a case 580k as I have one too.
Hope my video's are of some help to you! Thanks.
Please keep the videos going on this project showing us what the end result is. I got a super k as well, I imagine its the same minus the outriggers on those european/austrailian versions being a lot different. I personally would always powerwash the crap out of the areas your going to disassemble before working on it if its me, but good job so far. The drain bolt for the transaxle is on the passenger side (right side). Its a flush bolt that is a allen key. Possible its hidden in grime. One suggestion I didn't do that was suggested to me after I already did a transaxle drain and fill was to put a magnet inside the pickup screen to help catch metal particles....sounds like a good idea, but I guess be carefull the magnet wouldn't get sucked up into the hose/line is all I would think would be concern for doing that.
Hi Tyler, and welcome!! Thanks to your tip, I did locate the drain bung (woo hoo!!!). Yep, it was buried deep under mud! Thanks again! The idea of attaching magnets is a very good one, however, I usually place them on the side of the filter (engine, hydraulics, transmission), and swap them to the new filter each service (Kinda' works just as well, I think?). As I mentioned in the vid', due to parts and time, I won't be able to upload a vid on this project every week. Would you prefer sporadic video's, or prefer I leave it for a while and upload all vid's as a series once it's complete? I might propose this question in my next video. Thanks again for the support!
@@pete-mate3524 Hey. Just upload them as you go. The sooner you get videos out too, the quicker you would get more subsribers too.
Keep at it mate. Will be a good machine after it’s all repaired and flushed ou
Thanks Steve! Will do. Keen to see how you and Geoffrey got on with that ford!
We did a little bit to it mate. Went a different direction to what I first thought but still made progress and a video. It will be a series of episodes the build of that one I’d say
Thanks for your hard work I have 580 SK I need to do brake job on it case wants $10,600 probably more they said so definitely do my self Dave in Missouri USA
Glad I could help
Great videos. Very informative, much appreciate 🇬🇧
Thank you, and you're welcome! :-)
Thanks! From Arkansas USA
Your welcome! :-)
Hi Pete, enjoyed the video, How much do you think it will cost for parts to fix the damage....including oil / new filter etc etc, what do you think it would cost if a shop did it for you.......Also do you think there could potentially be other issues caused to other parts due to metal fragments flowing through the system?
Hi Todd, thanks for the questions. There's a huge variant on the 'parts cost' as it depends on what failed and in what way did it fail. Filters are anywhere between $50 and $200(ish) depending on where you get them from. Genuine TC and charge pump came to around $1500 from the wreckers. Genuine parts are no longer made, but China and India can supply new, if you enjoy 'rolling the dice'! I bought a 205 liter drum of oil for around $1200 and used about 60 liters for the trans. New park brake discs were about $150. Service brakes and shuttle clutch packs were still in good order, so I didn't change them out. In theory, as soon as the TC fail's, you've lost drive and therefore, no metal fragments are being pushed around the gearbox. So it kinda saves itself there a little bit. That said, I did completely strip and clean every single component I could find...just to be sure!! Also consider that if the bearings and brakes / clutch packs are worn, the cost of repair will escalate accordingly. Not sure how long it would take a workshop to do this job. Again, it kinda depends on if the guy has done one before, and how well the shop is 'set up' for this. I did this in my backyard during weekends, and having never done one before. I also took extra time to set up camera's, lights and of course 'hair and makeup' (Ha ha!). If you're thinking of doing this job yourself, the Case workshop manuals are exceptionally good!! Hope this helps! Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed answer Pete. I was going to buy an older backhoe to do some work on a piece of property I have but I see there is more involved than just filters and oil changes. Might save up a bit more money to buy a better machine as lots of the ones I looked at where used in construction so used and abused = more repairs....Don't want to become a full time mechanic. @@pete-mate3524
Hey pete, i was draining my 580sk transmission today the way you did it but the inlet pipe just before the screen moves but it won't come out? Does it screw out? Or do i need more muscle? Thanks in advance, I just love the way you dig in and go for it.
Hi Mary, so apparently, there is a drain bung on the other side of the gearbox, however, probably not a bad idea to check & clean the 'pick-up' screen while you're doing an oil change. On my machine, that screen simply pushes into a tube inside the trans'. This plastic screen also has an '0' ring on it, so there may be some resistance with that. The tube is an elbow shaped bit of pipe (about 2 foot long) that has one 'mount tag' about half way down the pipe. So it may just be out of alignment a little bit. A bit of twisting and wiggleing should be all that's needed. In one of the later video's, I have the whole trans' apart and you can see exactly what I'm talking about. Hope this helps, and good luck with it!!!
@@pete-mate3524 thanks
Hi. Pete. Are they Australian safety boots?.
Ha ha!! Absolutely!!!
good job 🎉
That's good
Thank you!!
Buenas tardes me interesa mucho en español o con subtitulos