The high spot is actually there to aid in the adjustment of the gear box. If you turn it to the "tight" or high spot to adjust the gearbox, you will not overtighten it and have problems with the gearbox locking up. This was more common on manual steering than power. Never adjust them so tightly that you can "feel" the high spot on the gear. If you notice it when turning stop to stop, back off until you cannot feel the difference in the steering wheel.
In other words to take all the play in the center I will have to make it bind when turning. And then I have to adjust it back a little so I feel no resistance lock to lock which means that the center is back to not be as tight as it could be.
I was just thinking as he did this that you could adjust it till it has no play then move it off centre to check if you get play then back again and see if it binds
This is the best video/manual that is actually explaining and at the same time being able to see what happens. All of the other videos does not explain the relationship between the gears properly. Most of them say like it is some kind of unimaginable complex system, which it isn't.
I have worked in many places as a tech, including several dealerships, who had no clue about this adjustment. It helps a lot if the front end is kept in good condition. The "hammering" associated with loose front end parts does untold damage to these gearboxes. Any time there is slack in the steering, movement accelerates until impact, so the "hammering" effect is intensified by neglect. In truth, front end inspection should be part of an oil change, but few bother. Great videos.
You are correct about a tiny amount of adjustment. Turning it more than 1/8-1/4 to 1/2 max turn puts too much pressure on the internals. According to my manual.
THANK YOU, for keeping the camera on, I was a little disappointed when you said you weren't gonna show the adjustment. Then you did, lol. This is the only video I've found on it. Great description and awesome video, thanks again.
This vid is really helpful. Now I know the inner anatomy of the steering box, and I understand why my sector shaft has play and how to fix it! If the center section of the gear is so worn that I can't get rid of the play without introducing bind at the outer areas (turn to lock), I know I need a new box. 2003 F150. Thank you!
Masterfully done! And Kudos to all who are sharing their insight on the box. I have a Jeep TJ and I’m not liking the play. I checked the ujoint and the bearing on the shaft, all checks good. The slop is coming from the box and I’ll use the setting method you showed. I understand better, thanks!
I have a Jeep TJ also nd it sounds like we have the same issue. I was going to replace it but now I’m thinking it’s just not adjusted correctly. We shall see.. thanks for the info!.
Thanks for uploading this! I read everywhere to adjust sector shaft to help with a loose steering box, but it's nice to know what is actually happening and not just think it's some black magic
You're more than welcome! There are a few different styles of boxes, but this is a datsun truck unit.....same basic principles at work. If you have time to read them, there's some really good info in the comments. Thanks!!
Excellent video! Really helped me understand what was going on inside the steering box when making this adjustment on my son’s Jeep. Awesome. Really appreciated this.
Great video! I’m working on my new project car a 95’ 4Runner and I just replaced an extremely worn idler arm that was causing some crazy slop but after I replaced it it got rid of the play in the arms but I noticed there was still a good amount of play in the steering wheel and found out about the steering gear box adjustment. Lots of videos say how to adjust it but not many explain exactly what’s actually going on in there. Thanks!
Thanks! I find it a lot easier to do adjustments/work when I understand the "behind the scenes" part of it. "Tighten until you feel.......", doesn't usually work for me. lol -Mike
Thank you for making this video. I just bought a used Jeep Cherokee steering gear and used this video to inspect the play. No descernable play in the middle of the range, some play when the pittman is turned to one side. Good to go. I cleaned the steering box, painted it up and have it ready to go into the jeep soon. The previous owner adjusted the sector shaft and it is way too tight.
@@bluehandsvideo. Oem doesn't seem to be willing to provide me all the information I need so we will be winging the sector shaft end play. They did give me info on interference between sector shaft and power piston.
You can put the lid on by backing the adjuster back a couple of turns and the whole assembly will go on. Then adjust it right down and back off a quarter of a turn then check the feel on the whole steering left to right. Most old boxes will have some wear in the straight ahead position. If it is too much the gears are stuffed!
Thank you for this. Mine is confusing because it’s tight at center but loose as soon as I turn the wheel just a bit. So going around corners it’s sloppy, but if I tighten it any more it sticks at center. It seems backwards, I would have thought it would wear more near center.
You're more than welcome. :) The pinned comment explains the high spot . The caster on the front end helps to keep the wheels running straight. The vehicle spends more time going straight than turning and there's very little load on gears when going straight. When turning, there's load on one side of the gears to push the wheels off center, then there's load on the other side of them when turning back to straight. By my reckoning, there's twice as much wear off center. If all the tie rods and ball joints are good/tight, it would seem your box is worn too much for the adjustment to help.
@@bluehandsvideo thanks again, it's really helpful to chat a little about it before spending $700+ on parts. All the rest of the steering linkage is new and in good shape which is probably why I'm noticing this more now. I have a Lares new-make box plus steering pump and lines on order. I appreciate you.
I'm sure it's not good. Typically, whines and squeals are high pitched vibrations.....like brake pad squeal. Maybe it's low on lube and two pieces of dry metal are rubbing together? I'm guessing it's while you're turning, so maybe something is rubbing on the steering shaft? This was the deepest I'd been into a steering box so you might was to ask someone that knows a lot more about them than I do. lol A cheap stethoscope from HF can really help find mechanical noises. www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html?_br_psugg_q=stethoscope Good luck!! -Mike
Thank you for your efforts.... this video explains and shows exactly what my brother was telling over the phone (long distance) last night. I have excess play in the steering on my '57 Chevy's original manual steering box.
These old cars call for an alignment spec of 1/2 degree LESS caster on the left in order to compensate for road crown, but that makes the car pull to the left on a flat road, unless... ...the sector shaft adjustment is correct. A proper adjustment calls for the box to be out of the car and to put an inch-pound torque wrench to measure the torque increase as the sector shaft goes over center. IIRC it should be about 10-15 inch-pounds MORE to bring the the box from left turning to right turning. Properly adjusted, the gearbox is going into a slight bind as it approaches center and the alignment tech can then adjust the steering wheel so this left tendency in the caster is compensated for in the gearbox when it is slightly right of center. No pulling to the right on a crowned road because of the caster, no pulling to the left on a flat road because of the sector shaft bind at center position.
Interesting. I remember hearing about that when I was still pretty young, but I've never come across it on any of the cars I've owned(about 80). Some may have required it, but I didn't know about it or have them aligned. The factory manual didn't say anything about that......maybe the Datsun is too narrow for it to matter? Datsun also doesn't mention anything about adjusting the caster....they say it's fixed. I can't imagine there's too many shops/mechanics around that are still familiar with that. Thanks for taking the time to share that information!!!! I appreciate it!! Mike
bluehandsvideo Datsun! Now there's a name I haven't heard in a long time! Yeah, those Jap cars were the first to put McPherson strut suspensions into mass production and their caster is built into the design of the car, it doesn't change as the springs sag when they get older. Dual a-arm suspensions changed quite a bit over the first couple of years until the springs settled in. We would make the compensation for road crown (and BTW, the car being narrower has nothing to do with that effect) by adding camber to the left side on those cars. Camber pull is the same pull that steers your bicycle, lean to the left, it goes to the left. About 1 degree was the maximum, beyond that and it would definitely pull to the left when going straight, and most McPherson style suspensions also had rack & pinion steering so there was no way to limit that pull with a natural bind in the gearbox like the Saginaw boxes could do.
ladamyre1 I mostly work with the older Datsun trucks.....which have arms and shocks. The caster is built into the kingpin inclination. I was thinking the road crown was an arc instead of flat and angled(like a roof).....that's why I was thinking the width would matter. I've always heard about caster and bicycle forks, but I haven't heard about the camber pull. Very interesting! I understand why you'd put the extra degree of camber in(positive I'm assuming) so that it tries to turn up the hill, negating the tendency to go to the right. What about the scrub radius? Does that tend to pull more as it gets greater? Narrow tires and zero scrub are easy to steer. Wide tires and zero scrub, harder, but not too bad. Wide tires and offset rims(causing more scrub) are a lot harder.......but I only hear it referenced to slow driving/parking.
Yes, steering gear is adjusted by measuring steering wheel free play travel, steering gears will wear from normal use to a point that they should to be replaced.
Thanks. Sorry, no house calls. LOL The shop isn't anything like that now. There's a cnc mill sitting in the middle and a cnc lathe by the door.....no room at all for anything like this now. :( -Mike
Since I've gotten this question several times recently, I went ahead and created a page on my site for it with a drawing from the manual. www.bluehandsvideo.com/steering-box-adjustment-datsun-521.html
HI, Great video. I seems you are working on a Datsun, funny. My Yamaha golf cart has a very similar steering box. I am going to use your tips when I tear it down this summer. If there is excessive wear, is Pitman arm replacement the remedy? what lubricant is recommended?
Thanks. There's probably quite a few out there that look alike. There may have been one supplier for many manufactures. The pitman arm is the arm between the tie rods and the splined shaft of the steering box. I've never seen one loose on the splines, so I doubt it needs replaced. Of hand, I don't know what lubricant. You can probably find the owner's manual for your cart online somewhere. -Mike
Thanks for the video are you familiar with the steering boxes that have the big slotted screw in the front ????? I see how ajusting a gear box does by turning that screw now inside , my 69 F250 has a big slotted screw and a lock ring guy at the shop said you can't just turn that top ajuster it will make it worse , you need to loosen the lock ring and turn the slotted screw in so much and the top one a certain way ? Have yet to see a video on ajusting in other words they need to be adjusted together it's a Bendix power steering box .
Thanks. High spots? I was surprised at how many different steering boxes they have out there. There's definitely some differences. This Datsun one is the only one I've torn into. Maybe one of these days I'll do this to the '64 Fairlane I have. I think a lot of people just think the excessive play is from the design since they're use to rack-n-pinion.....they just accept it rather than fix it. A new box and front end parts make a world of difference!! But, there's no new boxes left. :(
Thanks for the input! Great info! In Germany, all cars have to go through inspections and that was something they checked. I like the "rule of thumb" in your first post. What is the "high spot" you mentioned?
So is it adjusting the play coming out of the gearbox or going in, because I have a ram 3500 and there’s a ton on play going on by the steering shaft and I just don’t want to adjust it to much
Sorry, but even if I could remember, I have no clue if your box is the same. I would think that there's a mopar forum out there that could better answer the question.
So it would seem if you have the tie rod and steering shaft disconnected, then attempt to move the pitman arm by hand, feeling for the sweet spot between binding and backlash, you could get it pretty well dialed in.
Have you ever seen the adjustment plate at the top of the sector shaft get worn out. And can I replace just the four bolt plate or would I have to replace the whole box... Truck steers fine but has play and rattles on bumpy roads.. There is no plate left at the top of the sector shaft where the adjustment screw goes it's completely worn... The shaft teeth and adjustment screw look ok.. I will be posting a video later today to show the problem
I realize this is a demonstration. But what if the system was pressurized or had some type of lubrication? Would the results be different regarding binding?
Interesting question. I don't really know, but I think the "bind" is because of how the gears are ground. It's typically got 90w gear lube in it. This was pretty dry when I was doing it.....maybe it would have been less noticeable if more lube had been on it.....? Maybe another viewer will have a better answer. :)
LEAKS.... For everyone asking about a leak at the adjusting screw if you don't have the Oring or Copper Washer Seal.... Spray it with Break Cleaner and work it back n forth (in and out), apply any type of Oil based or Oil Resistant Thread or Pipe Sealant. Permatx #1 , #2 or even some Silicone sealant
Thanks! I was going to try adjusting that nut anyway but your video really helps explain the inner workings and I have much more confidence now.. Good luck on your HOT ROD...Or mud machine or whatever your building :-)
the easiest way to adjust that is tighten the adjustment and back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That gear box is worn out you might want to look for newer gear box
Thanks! One of these days, I should take all the tips/tricks/advice that viewers have left here and put them all on my site. I'm not a pro at this so there's been some great advice, just like yours, that I could not have given myself. -Mike
I have to question this a bit. There should be more wear at the center than at the ends, because you drive straight more than you go around tight corners. So it seems to me you should adjust it for almost no play at the ends, then it is whatever it is in the center (that is, there will be more slop there because there is more wear). I also wonder about what happens when the gearbox heats up - does that play at the ends go away or get bigger? But for sure, do the adjustment at the ends (the tighter end if there is any difference).
I think the tightness is cause by the shape of the gears more so than wear. At least with this box, it you adjusted for no play at the ends, you probably wouldn't be able to turn it back past center. Interesting question about the tolerances changing as it heats up. I would tend to doubt they'd change much....maybe not even noticeable. Cast iron is very stable across a very wide heat range. That's a big reason why they make milling machines and lathes with it. If it moved around with temp changes, the machines would only be accurate at a certain temperature.
I just adjusted my Dodge van and it worked the way you said it would. So I was wrong. I had done this years ago on another car and thought it worked the way I described. Maybe it did on that car, or maybe I'm just remembering it wrong.
That's awesome! It certainly wouldn't have been the first time I was wrong. :) There are different styles of gear boxes, so I wouldn't be surprised if it did get adjusted differently. My memory is pathetic! That's part of why I started doing vids......so I could refer back to them to see what I did and how. lol Thank you for coming back and letting me know!! :) Mike
hey this is my second gear box from o 'rally auto parts store dont no if u heard from them or not both boxes were no good i still have play in my wheel everything is new under there with the truck running i can turn my rag joint shaft and as sonn as i move it ican see the oitman arm starts to move bit not my tires wat do u think
Sorry for the late reply.....YT seems a bit weird about not sending me notifications for all comments. Outside of removing the box and turning it upside down.......or, removing the pitman arm and pulling the sector shaft up so that the oil drains out the bottom......the easiest way would be to get a cheap suction pump from a car parts store and suck it out. Something like this should work..... www.lowes.com/pd/Arnold-Siphon-Pump/3142667?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-OutdoorPowerEquipment-_-Lubricants-_-3142667:Arnold&CAWELAID=&kpid=3142667&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1114&k_clickID=b1797905-e4d2-47f0-95c6-6b010c4f2c14 OR www.zoro.com/lincoln-suction-gun-18-oz-blue-615/i/G1379743/?gclid=COW6kqn9z9ECFUtNfgodvSAPcg&gclsrc=aw.ds I prefer the second style....easier to clean and handle, but you might need to get a longer tube(most hardware/home stores should have it). Thanks!
It's just an adjustment to take some of the slop out of the steering wheel. If that adjustment bolt failed and let the shaft drop down in, that might be a serious issue, but I don't think that's anything to worry about.
***** I suppose it could, but I would think the heavy lube in it would dampen it. If it's that loose, you can probably feel the play in it by pushing up on the bottom of the sector shaft where the pitman are is attached. If there's a lot of movement, I'd adjust it and see if the noise goes away. While your down there...push pull the rest of you steering components and see if something is loose or worn. It's really hard to tell from the vid but it's more likely a ball joint or tierod. Sorry I can't be of more help, but those noises can be hard enough to diagnose when your actually in the vehicle. :) Thanks!
***** I had a similar problem with my 2003 Hummer H2. After replacing the upper / lower ball joints, inner / outer tie rods, the suspension was much quieter. But that thud still occurred. The big clue was the tracking wandered while driving on cambered roads. I just replaced the Pitman and Idler arms. That solved the "thud" problem. The steering is now very precise, with no play at all. And the tracking remains straight on any road. Hope this helps you.
@@bluehandsvideo my friend seems to think the pitman arm was replaced a few teeth off making the steering wheel look correct, but actually off °360 but the wheels straight. Is that possible? Everything is straight but bottoms out half way through left turns.
@@siggyretburns7523 Typically, the pitman arm is keyed and only goes onto the shaft in one position....so you could be right. Is there reason to suspect that the shaft was taken out of the box? Are the tierods equal length on each side? They could have done those wrong and then moved the wheel. Only the older cars will allow the steering wheel to be positioned off center. A lot have a missing tooth on the steering wheel mount splines and can't be set off center. If you know that the box was worked on(messed with), I'd check it first, otherwise, that's the hardest thing to fix, so I'd check on the tierods and then the steering wheel first. good luck.
It may, but it's unlikely. When the lock nut tightens up, it pulls one side of the thread on the screw tightly against the threads in the hole. That should block the thick oil that's inside. The nut will also have somewhat of a seal against the top plate, too. I wouldn't be as worried about oil getting out as I would water getting in. I've never heard of it being an issue. Thanks! Mike
I just replaced my gear box and after a test drive it is leaking from between that nut and the adjustment screw. Any thoughts on a fix? Any input is much appreciated. And great video. Thank you.
Is it the same box? I'm guessing it's overfilled. Gear lube doesn't "splash" around like thinner oils. On this box, the cover is threaded and the nut is to lock it in place. Maybe put some tefon tape around the screw..? Thanks! Mike
@@bluehandsvideo It looks like it's about the same kind of box. It's for a 94 chevy silverado. I'm going to try to put Teflon or a thread sealant on there tomorrow and let it cure. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the reply. 🍻
Hmm....I've only done it on the Datsun, so I'm not familiar with the Ford box. I would check it with the steering linkage disconnected from the pitman arm. If it's still the same, I would guess that the box is worn unevenly and you might have to find a middle setting you can live with. Maybe there's another vid on youtube geared more toward the Ford box? Sorry....I wish I had better info for you.
Thanks! Yes, typically, it's something like 90w gear oil, but it can vary with manufacture. I'm sure you can find what goes in yours with a bit of searching on google. If you have a datsun, I can probably find it for you. :)
So I have a 1985 Chevy c10 steering gear box..an I can't find a video or diagram of the ajustment section..mine has a spring a ajustment bolt a dime shaped plate..but there was a ?? Seemed like a washer but it was so far gone so I couldn't tell what it was.? Any help?
Sorry Richard, but I'm not really a mechanic. I don't have any clue about how to help with that box. If you have the time, you might scan through some of the comment left....there's been some really good mechanics leave comments here. You might try contacting one of them. With any luck, someone might see your comment and chime in. :) Mike
Have you tried finding the factory repair manuals? I've bought them for several vehicles over the years and they've always got the nitty gritty details that the parts store books never have. Does the '87 have the same/similar box? Took about 30 seconds on google to find this... www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/ST_330_87_1987_Chevrolet_Light_Duty_Truck_Service_Manual.pdf ....you might ask 610GARAGE....he's got a vid up of how a power steering box works....he just might know the answer to your question. I haven't turned a wrench on a vehicle in a few years now.....even then, I was just a driveway hack. :)
with my truck running it seen like i dont have no tention in the wheels seems like its nothing hook up it feels that loose...its a 90 fullsize k5 blazer 35x12 tires on it..if that will help u out any
+abdyfe If you can see the pitman arm move right away, but not the tires, there must be play somewhere between the pitman arm and the tires. You said everything is new. Are all of the tierod ends fully seated in their tapered holes? If they're the wrong taper, they might be able to move in the hole. Sounds like you have power steering? There will always be some amount of play with a steering box compared to a rack and pinion setup. I'm not really a mechanic and I've never worked on a Chevy box before. I've owned them, just never had to work on them. Sorry I can't be more help.
My american willies jeep having manual steering gear box.from long time i buy this jeep i can turn full only one side (up to tire touches the body.)But other side can turn only half only.So for turn other side i have to from and back the jeep 2-3 times.Where is the problem?How can i fix the problem.Please help me..
I'm not familiar with the steering box on a jeep. If it's like this one, it sounds like you'll need to pull the shaft out and recenter the pitman arm. I'm sure there are forums online that could provide better help. I would guess that manuals are available, too. Sorry I'm not more help, but I'm only familiar with this box.
hi blue hand. this is what had happened on me.and I was thinking it got no seal or Oring and how do I handle it?just replace the screw and the jam nut?
Off hand, I don't know. Most gear boxes will take similar lube, but your best bet is to look up what your's call for. Most parts stores can look it up if you don't have a manual. If you're referring to a Datsun 521 truck, it should be listed in the factory manual.....which you can download from my site bluehandsfab.com or several other places online. I don't remember if this box has any brass in it. There are 80-90W lubes that are not recommended for brass parts. I'm sure that's typically more of a concern with transmissions and differentials.
Ok, so if you are not technically advanced enough to take all of that apart, is there a way to adjust it without taking the steering wheel off and the tie rods off? I have a 2023 wrangler that loves to wander all over my lane in the highway.
you don't need to take anything apart to do the adjustment. You will need to raise the front end off the ground on jack stands so that you can turn the steering back and forth to feel that high spot. Read the pinned comment by @klmartin1962 for a better explanation. While you have it lifted up, you can more easily check the tie rods and ball joints to see if any of them are the problem. If you've modified the suspension at all, you toe-in is probably off now and it needs an alignment. Seriously, if you have a 2023, I'd take it to the dealer and have them do the work under warranty.
@@stratdx Sounds like good steering is a bit hit or miss with jeeps. I didn't read the entire thread, but it seems the steering has been an issue for a long time with them. www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/are-the-steering-issues-resolved-in-the-2023-models.102233/
@@michaelklotz5495 well if it is packed with equipment, that means you have everything to do your work. If you have everything you want, doesn't it means heaven... 😊 Anyway, good luck with your future projects.
@@wpdesilva There's not much I can't make with the equipment I have now. :) You can see it in my newer videos. Yep, pretty closee to heaven. :) Thanks!!
Is pitman arm used in rack and pinion mechanism? because by book uses this term even in rack and pinion mechanism...In which all steering gear system we use the term pitman arm?.....Please explain Sir....Its confusing.....
I have ford f 250 superduty my steering gear box wants to pull to the left and it sticks to the left for a second be for it comes back to the center of road gear box is only a year old any one no why its doing this
I don't have an answer for you, but hopefully, someone will. I know it would be tedious, but there's been a lot of knowledgeable people comment on here. You might have some luck if you scan the comments and directly ask some of those that obviously know more about this than I do. :) Have you checked everything else to make sure it isn't something else that causing the "catch" in your steering?
Great awesome video, now I really can imagine what is happening down there that makes my 94 vic play on the lanes :D Thanks so much Mike you made our ride safer before it is too late :P
With it out of the car like that, you should be able to set it up with and inch pound torque wrench. Remove the shaft and turn the gear directly with the torque wrench, specs should be in your GM manual.
Please don't warry about play under steering, (say stopping at the intersection (if the steering is hold it in to one side lock) and find to have a massive play in it, is because the angle of the gears teeth are designed that way in order to turn easy, .. but tighter wile you drive on a straight line. And wishing that the tight spot will wear out.. (of course everything does), but if the hard face wears out prematurely that..... it's not a good thing. So no matter how much play is obtained in the adjustment, on a straight line position there always be less play. And adjusting in a dry gear mashing, it's only done on differentials, (where there should be motion movement, but no slack at all, until some lubrication is add it on , and that is the proper adjustment ............ (no need of "MANUAL"... Which it's only a reference, but a diff has constant mashing.....very different that a steering box. If you'll use a scale on the steering wheel, please use a support anther, and also lubricated otherwise that massive extension on the steering gears will course binding the steering gears and foals reading will occur. Thank you for your video, I am only adding on to your much appreciated description .
@@bluehandsvideo We are all here to help each other. My issue with the steering is completely different , but as usual other videos do pop up...I couldn't help adding my bit.. Thank you for the video and to appreciate my input..
Thanks you saved me on this video I tighten my too tight didn't know what was going on it wouldn't come back out at the turn the wheel little bit unscrew turn the wheel little bit unscrew
Cool....glad to hear it helped. :) Not all steering boxes are the same, but if you're working on a Datsun, this you're good. A lot of the others are like this or have similar adjustments.
In the other many mexican videos say whats the proble and how to fix the problem, But the question is, why this problem hepening, and I'm of those like you that want to know, WHAT IS HAPENING INSIDE, HOW IT EXACTLY WORKS! SO Thankyou so mucch! Man,..
Thanks Jon! I'm glad you liked it :) You'll probably find out pretty soon that I'm not currently doing much car stuff. I'm working on parts for old datsun trucks, but not actually on the trucks. I'll get back to the ball joint mod for the truck after I get the brake kits done. :) Mike
The high spot is actually there to aid in the adjustment of the gear box. If you turn it to the "tight" or high spot to adjust the gearbox, you will not overtighten it and have problems with the gearbox locking up. This was more common on manual steering than power. Never adjust them so tightly that you can "feel" the high spot on the gear. If you notice it when turning stop to stop, back off until you cannot feel the difference in the steering wheel.
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In other words to take all the play in the center I will have to make it bind when turning. And then I have to adjust it back a little so I feel no resistance lock to lock which means that the center is back to not be as tight as it could be.
I was just thinking as he did this that you could adjust it till it has no play then move it off centre to check if you get play then back again and see if it binds
after like 10 videos of trying to understand how this works, this is the one that did it for me
That's awesome! I'm very happy to hear that. :) -Mike
Same.
This is the best video/manual that is actually explaining and at the same time being able to see what happens. All of the other videos does not explain the relationship between the gears properly. Most of them say like it is some kind of unimaginable complex system, which it isn't.
Thank you very much! I appreciate that. :)
I have worked in many places as a tech, including several dealerships, who had no clue about this adjustment. It helps a lot if the front end is kept in good condition. The "hammering" associated with loose front end parts does untold damage to these gearboxes. Any time there is slack in the steering, movement accelerates until impact, so the "hammering" effect is intensified by neglect. In truth, front end inspection should be part of an oil change, but few bother. Great videos.
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You are correct about a tiny amount of adjustment. Turning it more than 1/8-1/4 to 1/2 max turn puts too much pressure on the internals. According to my manual.
Yep....it doesn't take much. ;)
i had a TON of play and you'd be shocked at what an 1/8th turn did for my 95 land cruiser (230,000 miles). for me, 1/4 turn caused binding. thank you!
Yep....it doesn't take much sometimes. :)
That’s answered my question nobody else covers. Very helpful. Thank you.
I'm happy to hear that. You're more than welcome!! :) Mike
Excellent presentation. Long time I was trying to understand how the adjustments work. Now it is clear. Thanks man .👍👍
You're more than welcome! I'm happy to hear it helped. Thanks!! Mike
THANK YOU, for keeping the camera on, I was a little disappointed when you said you weren't gonna show the adjustment. Then you did, lol. This is the only video I've found on it. Great description and awesome video, thanks again.
Thank you very much! I've happy to hear that you liked it. :)
This vid is really helpful. Now I know the inner anatomy of the steering box, and I understand why my sector shaft has play and how to fix it! If the center section of the gear is so worn that I can't get rid of the play without introducing bind at the outer areas (turn to lock), I know I need a new box. 2003 F150. Thank you!
Thank you! I'm happy to hear that it's helped. :) -Mike
Beware the rebuilt boxes often get new seals and paint and sent right back out without new gears
@@evanwest1929 Thanks for the warning!
@@evanwest1929 Rebuilt parts, in general, have seemed to go downhill.
Masterfully done! And Kudos to all who are sharing their insight on the box. I have a Jeep TJ and I’m not liking the play. I checked the ujoint and the bearing on the shaft, all checks good. The slop is coming from the box and I’ll use the setting method you showed. I understand better, thanks!
No promises it's exactly the same as this Datsun box, but good luck! I hope it works out well for you. -Mike
I have a Jeep TJ also nd it sounds like we have the same issue. I was going to replace it but now I’m thinking it’s just not adjusted correctly. We shall see.. thanks for the info!.
Thanks for uploading this! I read everywhere to adjust sector shaft to help with a loose steering box, but it's nice to know what is actually happening and not just think it's some black magic
You're more than welcome! There are a few different styles of boxes, but this is a datsun truck unit.....same basic principles at work. If you have time to read them, there's some really good info in the comments. Thanks!!
Excellent video! Really helped me understand what was going on inside the steering box when making this adjustment on my son’s Jeep. Awesome. Really appreciated this.
Thank you very much! I've very happy to hear that it helped you. :)
Great video! I’m working on my new project car a 95’ 4Runner and I just replaced an extremely worn idler arm that was causing some crazy slop but after I replaced it it got rid of the play in the arms but I noticed there was still a good amount of play in the steering wheel and found out about the steering gear box adjustment. Lots of videos say how to adjust it but not many explain exactly what’s actually going on in there. Thanks!
Thanks! I find it a lot easier to do adjustments/work when I understand the "behind the scenes" part of it. "Tighten until you feel.......", doesn't usually work for me. lol -Mike
Nice high quality video for the date posted. I'm going to try again my first attempt I couldn't get jam nut loose.
Thank you! Wow.....sounds like it's really stuck. 6 sided socket and maybe try tightening it just a hair to break it loose. Good luck!!
BEST ADJUSTMEND VIDEO IVE SEEN FOR ANY STEERING IVE SEEN THANKS
Wow!! Thank you very much, Mark!! I really appreciate hearing that! :)
Mike
Exactly the instruction I was hoping to find. Thank you for de-mystifying my steering box!
You're more than welcome!! I'm happy to hear that it helped. :) Thanks for watching -Mike
Thank you for making this video. I just bought a used Jeep Cherokee steering gear and used this video to inspect the play. No descernable play in the middle of the range, some play when the pittman is turned to one side. Good to go. I cleaned the steering box, painted it up and have it ready to go into the jeep soon. The previous owner adjusted the sector shaft and it is way too tight.
You're more than welcome. I'm happy to hear that it helped! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.....I really appreciate it. :) -Mike
This answers a question I had. I have an steering gearbox with excess play. Just been to find he specs to adjust a hd94pab gearbox.
I hope it works for you. :)
@@bluehandsvideo. Oem doesn't seem to be willing to provide me all the information I need so we will be winging the sector shaft end play. They did give me info on interference between sector shaft and power piston.
@@tommysmith8801 The "pinned" post that should show up just under this or at the top has some info that might help. It's by klmartin1962
perfect video on how it actually works. looks pretty simple in there, not too many moving parts
Thanks! I'm happy to heat that. :) -Mike
You can put the lid on by backing the adjuster back a couple of turns and the whole assembly will go on. Then adjust it right down and back off a quarter of a turn then check the feel on the whole steering left to right. Most old boxes will have some wear in the straight ahead position. If it is too much the gears are stuffed!
Thanks!
Thank you for this. Mine is confusing because it’s tight at center but loose as soon as I turn the wheel just a bit. So going around corners it’s sloppy, but if I tighten it any more it sticks at center. It seems backwards, I would have thought it would wear more near center.
You're more than welcome. :) The pinned comment explains the high spot . The caster on the front end helps to keep the wheels running straight. The vehicle spends more time going straight than turning and there's very little load on gears when going straight. When turning, there's load on one side of the gears to push the wheels off center, then there's load on the other side of them when turning back to straight. By my reckoning, there's twice as much wear off center. If all the tie rods and ball joints are good/tight, it would seem your box is worn too much for the adjustment to help.
@@bluehandsvideo thanks again, it's really helpful to chat a little about it before spending $700+ on parts. All the rest of the steering linkage is new and in good shape which is probably why I'm noticing this more now. I have a Lares new-make box plus steering pump and lines on order. I appreciate you.
@@JoeEngineersThings You're welcome. :) -Mike
If your gear box whines while you turn is it bad?
I'm sure it's not good. Typically, whines and squeals are high pitched vibrations.....like brake pad squeal. Maybe it's low on lube and two pieces of dry metal are rubbing together? I'm guessing it's while you're turning, so maybe something is rubbing on the steering shaft? This was the deepest I'd been into a steering box so you might was to ask someone that knows a lot more about them than I do. lol A cheap stethoscope from HF can really help find mechanical noises. www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html?_br_psugg_q=stethoscope
Good luck!! -Mike
Thank you for your efforts.... this video explains and shows exactly what my brother was telling over the phone (long distance) last night. I have excess play in the steering on my '57 Chevy's original manual steering box.
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The high spot in the center aid In Straight a head steering - not to bind the steering , but enough force to help hold it straight .
Thanks.
Thanks man for uploading video on worm and sector steering system......I can imagine better now...
This page looks to have a good explanation of both types.
www.carbibles.com/steering_bible.html
I think they explain it better than I can. :)
Thanks!
Thanks a lot sir.....
Jitendra malviya
You're welcome.
These old cars call for an alignment spec of 1/2 degree LESS caster on the left in order to compensate for road crown, but that makes the car pull to the left on a flat road, unless...
...the sector shaft adjustment is correct. A proper adjustment calls for the box to be out of the car and to put an inch-pound torque wrench to measure the torque increase as the sector shaft goes over center. IIRC it should be about 10-15 inch-pounds MORE to bring the the box from left turning to right turning.
Properly adjusted, the gearbox is going into a slight bind as it approaches center and the alignment tech can then adjust the steering wheel so this left tendency in the caster is compensated for in the gearbox when it is slightly right of center. No pulling to the right on a crowned road because of the caster, no pulling to the left on a flat road because of the sector shaft bind at center position.
Interesting. I remember hearing about that when I was still pretty young, but I've never come across it on any of the cars I've owned(about 80). Some may have required it, but I didn't know about it or have them aligned. The factory manual didn't say anything about that......maybe the Datsun is too narrow for it to matter? Datsun also doesn't mention anything about adjusting the caster....they say it's fixed. I can't imagine there's too many shops/mechanics around that are still familiar with that. Thanks for taking the time to share that information!!!! I appreciate it!!
Mike
bluehandsvideo
Datsun! Now there's a name I haven't heard in a long time!
Yeah, those Jap cars were the first to put McPherson strut suspensions into mass production and their caster is built into the design of the car, it doesn't change as the springs sag when they get older. Dual a-arm suspensions changed quite a bit over the first couple of years until the springs settled in.
We would make the compensation for road crown (and BTW, the car being narrower has nothing to do with that effect) by adding camber to the left side on those cars. Camber pull is the same pull that steers your bicycle, lean to the left, it goes to the left. About 1 degree was the maximum, beyond that and it would definitely pull to the left when going straight, and most McPherson style suspensions also had rack & pinion steering so there was no way to limit that pull with a natural bind in the gearbox like the Saginaw boxes could do.
ladamyre1
I mostly work with the older Datsun trucks.....which have arms and shocks. The caster is built into the kingpin inclination.
I was thinking the road crown was an arc instead of flat and angled(like a roof).....that's why I was thinking the width would matter.
I've always heard about caster and bicycle forks, but I haven't heard about the camber pull. Very interesting! I understand why you'd put the extra degree of camber in(positive I'm assuming) so that it tries to turn up the hill, negating the tendency to go to the right.
What about the scrub radius? Does that tend to pull more as it gets greater? Narrow tires and zero scrub are easy to steer. Wide tires and zero scrub, harder, but not too bad. Wide tires and offset rims(causing more scrub) are a lot harder.......but I only hear it referenced to slow driving/parking.
bluehandsvideo
ladamyre1....I sent you a msg via youtube....wanted to draw your attention to it in case you don't get some kind of notice.
On mine I try to put the cover on and it gives me a 1/2 gap or so ! I tried to hammer it down a bit and won't give
Yes, steering gear is adjusted by measuring steering wheel free play travel, steering gears will wear from normal use to a point that they should to be replaced.
Thanks. I've never seen a new box available for these old Datsuns. Hopefully, the adjustment will keep it on the road a bit longer. :)
What a shop, nice set up !! a-1 presentation- do you make house calls ? thanks mister !!
Thanks. Sorry, no house calls. LOL The shop isn't anything like that now. There's a cnc mill sitting in the middle and a cnc lathe by the door.....no room at all for anything like this now. :( -Mike
So those splines are tapered? Thanks for the explanation.
They seem to be, but I can't sweat to it.
That was an awesome explanation of how it works and how to adjust it.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. :)
how does moving the sector shaft up and down losen or tighten the teeth? Is the rack at an angle? are the teeth tapered?
Since I've gotten this question several times recently, I went ahead and created a page on my site for it with a drawing from the manual.
www.bluehandsvideo.com/steering-box-adjustment-datsun-521.html
How does this work? Are the gear teeth on the sector shaft tapered?
Maybe someone else will have a better answer, but I think you are correct.
Should be adjusted for zero play when the wheels are straight. Should be some play when wheels are turned.
Thanks.
HI, Great video. I seems you are working on a Datsun, funny. My Yamaha golf cart has a very similar steering box. I am going to use your tips when I tear it down this summer. If there is excessive wear, is Pitman arm replacement the remedy? what lubricant is recommended?
Thanks. There's probably quite a few out there that look alike. There may have been one supplier for many manufactures. The pitman arm is the arm between the tie rods and the splined shaft of the steering box. I've never seen one loose on the splines, so I doubt it needs replaced. Of hand, I don't know what lubricant. You can probably find the owner's manual for your cart online somewhere. -Mike
Thank you for making it easy to understand.
Thank you!! You're more than welcome. :) -Mike
Thanks for the video are you familiar with the steering boxes that have the big slotted screw in the front ????? I see how ajusting a gear box does by turning that screw now inside , my 69 F250 has a big slotted screw and a lock ring guy at the shop said you can't just turn that top ajuster it will make it worse , you need to loosen the lock ring and turn the slotted screw in so much and the top one a certain way ? Have yet to see a video on ajusting in other words they need to be adjusted together it's a Bendix power steering box .
Sorry. This was really the only steering box I've done anything with. Maybe another viewer will have some insight.
Thanks.
High spots?
I was surprised at how many different steering boxes they have out there. There's definitely some differences. This Datsun one is the only one I've torn into. Maybe one of these days I'll do this to the '64 Fairlane I have. I think a lot of people just think the excessive play is from the design since they're use to rack-n-pinion.....they just accept it rather than fix it. A new box and front end parts make a world of difference!! But, there's no new boxes left. :(
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Thanks for the input! Great info! In Germany, all cars have to go through inspections and that was something they checked.
I like the "rule of thumb" in your first post.
What is the "high spot" you mentioned?
Meri Gadi ke chalane par Milte
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So is it adjusting the play coming out of the gearbox or going in, because I have a ram 3500 and there’s a ton on play going on by the steering shaft and I just don’t want to adjust it to much
Sorry, but even if I could remember, I have no clue if your box is the same. I would think that there's a mopar forum out there that could better answer the question.
Can u provide me a link to a video which explains connections between tie rod,steering arm and spindle?..
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So it would seem if you have the tie rod and steering shaft disconnected, then attempt to move the pitman arm by hand, feeling for the sweet spot between binding and backlash, you could get it pretty well dialed in.
Maybe. I don't know. The pinned comment by klmartin1962 describes what to look for during adjustment.
You're more than welcome! Thanks for watching!!
....just realized I had "adjustment" spelled wrong in the title! LOL
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Have you ever seen the adjustment plate at the top of the sector shaft get worn out. And can I replace just the four bolt plate or would I have to replace the whole box... Truck steers fine but has play and rattles on bumpy roads.. There is no plate left at the top of the sector shaft where the adjustment screw goes it's completely worn... The shaft teeth and adjustment screw look ok.. I will be posting a video later today to show the problem
I found your vid and posted the response on your vid. :)
thank you for the video I understood really well the way the steering shaft screw adjustment works thanks again
You're more than welcome! I'm happy to hear that it helped. Thank you!!
Thank you.You save me from taking my box apart. Now I know what is going on inside of it. Thank you very much
You're more than welcome! I'm happy to hear that it helped. :) -Mike
I realize this is a demonstration. But what if the system was pressurized or had some type of lubrication? Would the results be different regarding binding?
Interesting question. I don't really know, but I think the "bind" is because of how the gears are ground. It's typically got 90w gear lube in it. This was pretty dry when I was doing it.....maybe it would have been less noticeable if more lube had been on it.....? Maybe another viewer will have a better answer. :)
Great video thank you very much never saw the inside of one of those so it makes all kinds of sense now. Thank you for sharing with us
Thank you very much!! You're more than welcome. :)
LEAKS.... For everyone asking about a leak at the adjusting screw if you don't have the Oring or Copper Washer Seal.... Spray it with Break Cleaner and work it back n forth (in and out), apply any type of Oil based or Oil Resistant Thread or Pipe Sealant. Permatx #1 , #2 or even some Silicone sealant
Great tip!
Thanks! I was going to try adjusting that nut anyway but your video really helps explain the inner workings and I have much more confidence now.. Good luck on your HOT ROD...Or mud machine or whatever your building :-)
shadetree mech Sweet! Glad to hear it!! Thanks! :) Mike
Awesome video on how the adjusting works. I understand so much better.
Thank you! :) Mike
the easiest way to adjust that is tighten the adjustment and back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That gear box is worn out you might want to look for newer gear box
Thanks! One of these days, I should take all the tips/tricks/advice that viewers have left here and put them all on my site. I'm not a pro at this so there's been some great advice, just like yours, that I could not have given myself. -Mike
I have to question this a bit.
There should be more wear at the center than at the ends, because you drive straight more than you go around tight corners. So it seems to me you should adjust it for almost no play at the ends, then it is whatever it is in the center (that is, there will be more slop there because there is more wear). I also wonder about what happens when the gearbox heats up - does that play at the ends go away or get bigger? But for sure, do the adjustment at the ends (the tighter end if there is any difference).
I think the tightness is cause by the shape of the gears more so than wear. At least with this box, it you adjusted for no play at the ends, you probably wouldn't be able to turn it back past center. Interesting question about the tolerances changing as it heats up. I would tend to doubt they'd change much....maybe not even noticeable. Cast iron is very stable across a very wide heat range. That's a big reason why they make milling machines and lathes with it. If it moved around with temp changes, the machines would only be accurate at a certain temperature.
I just adjusted my Dodge van and it worked the way you said it would. So I was wrong. I had done this years ago on another car and thought it worked the way I described. Maybe it did on that car, or maybe I'm just remembering it wrong.
That's awesome! It certainly wouldn't have been the first time I was wrong. :) There are different styles of gear boxes, so I wouldn't be surprised if it did get adjusted differently. My memory is pathetic! That's part of why I started doing vids......so I could refer back to them to see what I did and how. lol Thank you for coming back and letting me know!! :)
Mike
Thanks for admitting you were wrong! That seems to be very hard to do now days, and i commend you for it.
hey this is my second gear box from o 'rally auto parts store dont no if u heard from them or not both boxes were no good i still have play in my wheel everything is new under there with the truck running i can turn my rag joint shaft and as sonn as i move it ican see the oitman arm starts to move bit not my tires wat do u think
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any idea whee i can get a rebuildt kit for this Saginaw 267625 ? it is almost not to find
Sorry. No clue at all. I've only dealt with Datsun trucks.
Amazing to understand how that works in details.Thanks very much
You're more than welcome! Thanks for watching. :) -Mike
Hi, I was trying to replace gear box oil in my 720 truck , but cant find any evident "plug" to drain old fluid! can you please help? thxs!!!!!
Sorry for the late reply.....YT seems a bit weird about not sending me notifications for all comments. Outside of removing the box and turning it upside down.......or, removing the pitman arm and pulling the sector shaft up so that the oil drains out the bottom......the easiest way would be to get a cheap suction pump from a car parts store and suck it out. Something like this should work.....
www.lowes.com/pd/Arnold-Siphon-Pump/3142667?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-OutdoorPowerEquipment-_-Lubricants-_-3142667:Arnold&CAWELAID=&kpid=3142667&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=1114&k_clickID=b1797905-e4d2-47f0-95c6-6b010c4f2c14
OR
www.zoro.com/lincoln-suction-gun-18-oz-blue-615/i/G1379743/?gclid=COW6kqn9z9ECFUtNfgodvSAPcg&gclsrc=aw.ds
I prefer the second style....easier to clean and handle, but you might need to get a longer tube(most hardware/home stores should have it).
Thanks!
What happen if you dont get this fix? Will it just leave you with out steering at high or low speed?
It's just an adjustment to take some of the slop out of the steering wheel. If that adjustment bolt failed and let the shaft drop down in, that might be a serious issue, but I don't think that's anything to worry about.
Very helpful bud. Now I know how it works makes sense, I was about to thread the adjuster till it bottomed out....thank you
I'm happy to hear it helped. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment to let me know! :) Mike
Please help. Could extensive play in the sector shaft cause a loud thud over bumps/potholes? 2013 Jeep Wrangler unlimited. Thanks in advance.
***** I suppose it could, but I would think the heavy lube in it would dampen it. If it's that loose, you can probably feel the play in it by pushing up on the bottom of the sector shaft where the pitman are is attached. If there's a lot of movement, I'd adjust it and see if the noise goes away. While your down there...push pull the rest of you steering components and see if something is loose or worn. It's really hard to tell from the vid but it's more likely a ball joint or tierod. Sorry I can't be of more help, but those noises can be hard enough to diagnose when your actually in the vehicle. :)
Thanks!
***** I had a similar problem with my 2003 Hummer H2. After replacing the upper / lower ball joints, inner / outer tie rods, the suspension was much quieter. But that thud still occurred. The big clue was the tracking wandered while driving on cambered roads. I just replaced the Pitman and Idler arms. That solved the "thud" problem. The steering is now very precise, with no play at all. And the tracking remains straight on any road. Hope this helps you.
Is it possible to jump gear teeth with it all the way out or very loose?
Hmmm....maybe it's possible, but I really don't know. Sorry.
@@bluehandsvideo my friend seems to think the pitman arm was replaced a few teeth off making the steering wheel look correct, but actually off °360 but the wheels straight. Is that possible?
Everything is straight but bottoms out half way through left turns.
@@bluehandsvideo but. Yes. Thanks for the video. 👍
@@siggyretburns7523 Typically, the pitman arm is keyed and only goes onto the shaft in one position....so you could be right. Is there reason to suspect that the shaft was taken out of the box? Are the tierods equal length on each side? They could have done those wrong and then moved the wheel. Only the older cars will allow the steering wheel to be positioned off center. A lot have a missing tooth on the steering wheel mount splines and can't be set off center. If you know that the box was worked on(messed with), I'd check it first, otherwise, that's the hardest thing to fix, so I'd check on the tierods and then the steering wheel first. good luck.
@@siggyretburns7523 You're more than welcome.
Thank you, you saved me the senseless box replacement because I have no leaks. 😊
You're more than welcome! I'm happy to hear that it helped. :)
hi for the adjusting screw there it have no Oring in place.So the oil may leak thru there right.
It may, but it's unlikely. When the lock nut tightens up, it pulls one side of the thread on the screw tightly against the threads in the hole. That should block the thick oil that's inside. The nut will also have somewhat of a seal against the top plate, too. I wouldn't be as worried about oil getting out as I would water getting in. I've never heard of it being an issue. Thanks!
Mike
I just replaced my gear box and after a test drive it is leaking from between that nut and the adjustment screw. Any thoughts on a fix? Any input is much appreciated.
And great video. Thank you.
Is it the same box? I'm guessing it's overfilled. Gear lube doesn't "splash" around like thinner oils. On this box, the cover is threaded and the nut is to lock it in place. Maybe put some tefon tape around the screw..?
Thanks!
Mike
@@bluehandsvideo It looks like it's about the same kind of box. It's for a 94 chevy silverado. I'm going to try to put Teflon or a thread sealant on there tomorrow and let it cure. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the reply. 🍻
@@brianfauver1790 You're welcome. Good luck! :)
Wait... You have to go down, not up, to get rid of slop?
.....at least with this Datsun steering box. I don't know about other manufacture's steering boxes.
Hmm....I've only done it on the Datsun, so I'm not familiar with the Ford box. I would check it with the steering linkage disconnected from the pitman arm. If it's still the same, I would guess that the box is worn unevenly and you might have to find a middle setting you can live with. Maybe there's another vid on youtube geared more toward the Ford box? Sorry....I wish I had better info for you.
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Awesome video....does a type of oil go in there....?
Thanks! Yes, typically, it's something like 90w gear oil, but it can vary with manufacture. I'm sure you can find what goes in yours with a bit of searching on google. If you have a datsun, I can probably find it for you. :)
bluehandsvideo 92' f150...90wt should be good enough....thank you so much again.....aloha from hawaii bud
Much appreciated. My truck drove like it was on banana peels before. Feels MUCH better after adjustment.
Awesome!!
You're welcome! :)
Thanks!!
What was that website for the manual? Thanks in advance great video!
Thanks! The manuals are on the same site. www.bluehandsvideo.com/manuals.html
So I have a 1985 Chevy c10 steering gear box..an I can't find a video or diagram of the ajustment section..mine has a spring a ajustment bolt a dime shaped plate..but there was a ?? Seemed like a washer but it was so far gone so I couldn't tell what it was.? Any help?
Sorry Richard, but I'm not really a mechanic. I don't have any clue about how to help with that box. If you have the time, you might scan through some of the comment left....there's been some really good mechanics leave comments here. You might try contacting one of them. With any luck, someone might see your comment and chime in. :)
Mike
bluehandsvideo OK cool..if I could find a diagram of the ajustment screw assembly that's what I need..
Have you tried finding the factory repair manuals? I've bought them for several vehicles over the years and they've always got the nitty gritty details that the parts store books never have. Does the '87 have the same/similar box? Took about 30 seconds on google to find this...
www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/ST_330_87_1987_Chevrolet_Light_Duty_Truck_Service_Manual.pdf
....you might ask 610GARAGE....he's got a vid up of how a power steering box works....he just might know the answer to your question. I haven't turned a wrench on a vehicle in a few years now.....even then, I was just a driveway hack. :)
with my truck running it seen like i dont have no tention in the wheels seems like its nothing hook up it feels that loose...its a 90 fullsize k5 blazer 35x12 tires on it..if that will help u out any
+abdyfe If you can see the pitman arm move right away, but not the tires, there must be play somewhere between the pitman arm and the tires. You said everything is new. Are all of the tierod ends fully seated in their tapered holes? If they're the wrong taper, they might be able to move in the hole. Sounds like you have power steering? There will always be some amount of play with a steering box compared to a rack and pinion setup. I'm not really a mechanic and I've never worked on a Chevy box before. I've owned them, just never had to work on them. Sorry I can't be more help.
abdyfe p
My american willies jeep having manual steering gear box.from long time i
buy this jeep i can turn full only one side (up to tire touches the
body.)But other side can turn only half only.So for turn other side i
have to from and back the jeep 2-3 times.Where is the problem?How can i
fix the problem.Please help me..
I'm not familiar with the steering box on a jeep. If it's like this one, it sounds like you'll need to pull the shaft out and recenter the pitman arm. I'm sure there are forums online that could provide better help. I would guess that manuals are available, too. Sorry I'm not more help, but I'm only familiar with this box.
hi blue hand. this is what had happened on me.and I was thinking it got no seal or Oring and how do I handle it?just replace the screw and the jam nut?
and water from outside no pressure how to get in.but fluid in the gearbox is under pressure wouldn't you be more worried about?
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Great job of showing what this adjustment actually does.
Thanks!! :)
What oil do you put in there?? And at what level
Off hand, I don't know. Most gear boxes will take similar lube, but your best bet is to look up what your's call for. Most parts stores can look it up if you don't have a manual. If you're referring to a Datsun 521 truck, it should be listed in the factory manual.....which you can download from my site bluehandsfab.com or several other places online. I don't remember if this box has any brass in it. There are 80-90W lubes that are not recommended for brass parts. I'm sure that's typically more of a concern with transmissions and differentials.
Ok, so if you are not technically advanced enough to take all of that apart, is there a way to adjust it without taking the steering wheel off and the tie rods off? I have a 2023 wrangler that loves to wander all over my lane in the highway.
you don't need to take anything apart to do the adjustment. You will need to raise the front end off the ground on jack stands so that you can turn the steering back and forth to feel that high spot. Read the pinned comment by @klmartin1962 for a better explanation. While you have it lifted up, you can more easily check the tie rods and ball joints to see if any of them are the problem. If you've modified the suspension at all, you toe-in is probably off now and it needs an alignment.
Seriously, if you have a 2023, I'd take it to the dealer and have them do the work under warranty.
@@bluehandsvideo the dealership said that’s how jeeps handle and that there is no steering box adjustment. I had a feeling they would say that.
@@stratdx Sounds like good steering is a bit hit or miss with jeeps. I didn't read the entire thread, but it seems the steering has been an issue for a long time with them. www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/are-the-steering-issues-resolved-in-the-2023-models.102233/
@@stratdx Sounds like a cop-out, but pretty much what I expected to hear, too. :(
That work shop looks heaven to me..
Thanks. It certainly doesn't look like that anymore. It's packed with equipment.....no room to work.
@@michaelklotz5495 well if it is packed with equipment, that means you have everything to do your work. If you have everything you want, doesn't it means heaven... 😊
Anyway, good luck with your future projects.
@@wpdesilva There's not much I can't make with the equipment I have now. :) You can see it in my newer videos. Yep, pretty closee to heaven. :) Thanks!!
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Is pitman arm used in rack and pinion mechanism?
because by book uses this term even in rack and pinion mechanism...In which all steering gear system we use the term pitman arm?.....Please explain Sir....Its confusing.....
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Thank you
You're more than welcome! :)
Good video
Thanks. :) -Mike
im doing this on my truck but when u turn to your right is tide bot to the left has a little play any advise for that is a 92 f150
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You lost me at the beginning on the feeler gauge clearance? The rest makes sense.
Sorry....hopefully, you got it figured out okay. I somehow missed a ton of comments in the last year. :(
I have ford f 250 superduty my steering gear box wants to pull to the left and it sticks to the left for a second be for it comes back to the center of road gear box is only a year old any one no why its doing this
I don't have an answer for you, but hopefully, someone will. I know it would be tedious, but there's been a lot of knowledgeable people comment on here. You might have some luck if you scan the comments and directly ask some of those that obviously know more about this than I do. :) Have you checked everything else to make sure it isn't something else that causing the "catch" in your steering?
Thank you for the Education Sir Bluehands
You're more than welcome! Thanks for watching. :)
What year, make, and model was this from?
Late 60's Datsun 520 pickup
Great awesome video, now I really can imagine what is happening down there that makes my 94 vic play on the lanes :D
Thanks so much Mike you made our ride safer before it is too late :P
You're more than welcome! I'm glad it helped! :)
There's more good info in the comments if you get a chance to read them. :)
Thanks! Mike
With it out of the car like that, you should be able to set it up with and inch pound torque wrench. Remove the shaft and turn the gear directly with the torque wrench, specs should be in your GM manual.
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Absolutely Beautiful..Thank You..
Thanks! You're welcome. :)
Please don't warry about play under steering, (say stopping at the intersection (if the steering is hold it in to one side lock) and find to have a massive play in it, is because the angle of the gears teeth are designed that way in order to turn easy, .. but tighter wile you drive on a straight line. And wishing that the tight spot will wear out.. (of course everything does), but if the hard face wears out prematurely that..... it's not a good thing. So no matter how much play is obtained in the adjustment, on a straight line position there always be less play. And adjusting in a dry gear mashing, it's only done on differentials, (where there should be motion movement, but no slack at all, until some lubrication is add it on , and that is the proper adjustment ............ (no need of "MANUAL"... Which it's only a reference, but a diff has constant mashing.....very different that a steering box. If you'll use a scale on the steering wheel, please use a support anther, and also lubricated otherwise that massive extension on the steering gears will course binding the steering gears and foals reading will occur. Thank you for your video, I am only adding on to your much appreciated description .
Thanks for the additional info. What you're saying makes sense. :)
@@bluehandsvideo We are all here to help each other. My issue with the steering is completely different , but as usual other videos do pop up...I couldn't help adding my bit.. Thank you for the video and to appreciate my input..
@@cosimosanfilippo9050 I agree. You're more than welcome and thanks again for the great input! :) -Mike
Thanks you saved me on this video I tighten my too tight didn't know what was going on it wouldn't come back out at the turn the wheel little bit unscrew turn the wheel little bit unscrew
Glad to hear you got it figured out. :)
Good demonstration.
Thank you! :)
Phucking phantastic! Thanks for an outstanding explanation!
You're more than welcome! :)
Awesome show and tell, that is the best way to learn how to understand a gear box
Thank you very much!! :)
Ah got it now, great video and saved me opening up my old one to see how it worked :)
Cool....glad to hear it helped. :) Not all steering boxes are the same, but if you're working on a Datsun, this you're good. A lot of the others are like this or have similar adjustments.
In the other many mexican videos say whats the proble and how to fix the problem, But the question is, why this problem hepening, and I'm of those like you that want to know, WHAT IS HAPENING INSIDE, HOW IT EXACTLY WORKS! SO Thankyou so mucch! Man,..
If you happen to have a power steering unit, this vid shows the internals way better than mine. ruclips.net/video/AeXj35aOK7k/видео.html
You are the man. Sweet video. I am now a follower. lol
Thanks Jon! I'm glad you liked it :) You'll probably find out pretty soon that I'm not currently doing much car stuff. I'm working on parts for old datsun trucks, but not actually on the trucks. I'll get back to the ball joint mod for the truck after I get the brake kits done. :)
Mike
Good work its all clear now! Cheers again.
I'm happy to hear that! Thanks! :)
TOP ! In Deutschland gibt es so gute Erklärungen nicht.Alle haben Angst an der Schraube zu drehen ! Danke !! :-)
LOL. You are more than welcome! :)
Danke :-)
Gott segne dich !
Bitte schön :) (I think I got that right. lol)
Nice very informative, I appreciate your work and your experience.
Thank you very much!!