MK4 Volkswagen Dash removal/Heater Core replacement
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2021
- Covering complete dash removal to get to the heater core for replacement. This one was leaking slightly, just enough for a slight coolant smell in the cabin
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Did this job 4-5 years ago. took me the whole weekend. Had to do it again and needed a refresher. Had it done in half a day. thx
I used to hate having to replace mk4 heater cores.... but it's actually nice to be busy for the day with one vehicle, rather than having to rush through a number of cars.
I enjoy doing them, just need the time and space for it is the main thing
@@JoshsJettas I think this may be the only time ever that someone has said the enjoy doing heater cores!
@@hardboiledfrog I enjoy taking stuff apart especially bigger jobs. Makes me feel like I’ve accomplished something lol. It’s clean work and you get to sit in a seat the whole time, I’d take a heater core over a clutch atleast in these mk4 cars.
Hii guys a little help here. I went to a car service to remove the heater core and after that i can feel more of engine noise inside the cabin specially when i prees the gas paddle. Is there any change the service guy has left anything unattached or smth...the noise is driving me crazy...it was much quieter before he changed the heater core
@@iglimjalti2785 I am not a professional mechanic but if your car is anything like my car - there is a hole in the firewall through which the heater core connects to the coolant system. If all they did was take out the core, then you would still have a hole that used to be plugged by the inlet/outlet of your core.
Probably not a tough job to fix - you may be able to patch it with a fire retardant piece of foam or plastic as some heat resistant silicone. This solution is a noob guess but it would probably work to block the noise without presenting a fire hazard.
Depending on what they charged ya, I would say that they should have done something like this. If there are any exhaust leaks in your engine, those could enter the cabin through that hole as well which I would consider a safety issue.
Great job!!!! I used this one tutorial to replace my heater core. Take a pic to show others where are the two bolts above and below the expansion valve, I spent 40 minutes looking for. Lol
Yeah they’re a tricky one. I wanted to get it on video but I was having a hard time getting a clear picture of where they were on these, I’ll include some info in the description in the future.
I fought finding these also. I didn't understand that there were 2 more nuts, once the expansion valve was out.
@@rpturbo I’ll try and shoot a quick video for this to help in the future.
Thank you so much for posting this video! just finished up replacing the heater core on my 01 Jetta TDI, I was really not looking forward to this daunting job, but this video made it a whole lot easier, Its working fantastic now and no more leaks!
awesome glad to hear
Just changed mine, this video was a massive help. Cheers
Fantastic work, nicely done
Big brother thanks a lot. The only way to fix my 2001 mk4 golf
Not trying to hijack Josh's video here, but there is another way than pulling the dash for those brave enough to attempt it. See the links I posted below. Otherwise this is the best video I found for swapping out the heater core the traditional way, pulling dash, discharging the AC, etc. Make sure to pull those intake parts and get everything out of the way, and jack up the car to pull the bolts from underneath.
I got mine done but I must have messed up some wiring as my dome lights no longer work, and my radio antenna connection broke but that is a simple fix. (Be careful pulling the radio) I got my heater core done and my heater works great! I got the core from the dealer, was about 200$. Took awhile for the coolant system to fill up again. This would be a good thing to do while changing the timing belt and waterpump, flush out old coolant, replace heater core, and coolant system should be good for a long time...
Nice video man well explained .
Amazing job. Congratulations!!!
Lovely video
Thanks man helped an old dog emencely,ya alot.😎
Awesome glad it helped
I must have watched your video 15 times when it was dark out and then I went out and replicated the steps! Very good that you had the camera going the whole time. The one mystery I can't seem to unravel is where the HVAC cables go on a BEW Mk4 TDI which is just like your car. Mine is a 2005 TDI wagon, very similar if not exactly what you're working on in this video. AC was the biggest isses as you can't discharge/recharge at the home DIY shop. So many EPA rules and regulations in WA State that there's no way to DIY and once your vehicles torn apart you can't drive to the shop to have it discharged. Really stupid. They need to get all the autoparts stores to loan out the machine or recovery tanks, (they will loan you gauges and vacuum motors), so people can DIY the AC if car is not running. Junk yards used to just release into Atmosphere for these reasons. No one talks about it of course, but if they make the rules, then they need to provide a way to discharge into a tank, take tank to shop, pay a fee, whatever.
So other than that, it went pretty well! The AC needs to be recharged of course as well. So I suppose I will warn people if you have a 2004/5 BEW TDI you are going to need to have a shop discharge or rent the machine somehow prior to starting this procedure. Then it will go smoothly. I am to the point of re-installing the dash and the HVAC cables right now, almost done. Going to change the oil while it's up in the air.
Another thing he doesn't really mention, you need to get the car up in the air to get those lower bolts on the HVAC unbolted, and also pull your 2 10mm vacuum hose bolts and everything just moves out of the way to get to the Heater Core hoses. Those are fairly easy to R&R in my opinion. Great video for a BEW engine JETTA Wagon TDI. (2004-5 I am pretty sure) The late model 2005 and 2006 TDI's might be easier, not sure.
I cussed a lot and had a backup vehicle for about 3 weeks while I could only work on the weekends. And it was a nightmare! I am 63 years old and I got it done all by myself in a covered carport. Best of luck, a little tricky...
Careful removing the steering wheel airbag that it doesn't drop or you'll ruin the airbag connector. I bought a used steering wheel with the connector already on it. Dealer sells the right airbag connector for a wheel with Cruise and Volume adjust on it. (GLS vehicles I think, not positive) Nightmare on Elm Street! But you'll feel good when it's all put back together again! If you forget anything just watch this video a bunch of times like I did...
Thanks, J Mahoney, for your comments. I'm 71, without carport or 'spare change.' Have been debating whether to take this job on myself for my '05 TDI BEW Sportwagen. Now I am just not gonna go there. Life is too short.
@@scotto1252 A heater core is about 200$, give or take. I got mine from my local VW dealer so I know it's the real deal. If your car is the same year as mine, then you need to get the AC discharged first, then start taking dash apart, steering wheel, etc. I would consider doing the bypass until winter is over, and selling your car even, (an option),to someone more able to swap out the heater core. I still have to get the AC recharged and got a few issues, but heater is working!
These cars can be a lot of work, yet they also hold their value if they are a TDI model. The bypass is pretty easy to do. Then it won't fog up at least. If you change your mind and decide to take it on it's way better if you have another car to drive until you get it done. Wait until the weather is nicer and not raining and make sure you jack up the car and put the front on jackstands with backup on top of that, like a floor jack, something. You have to get underneath the car and it is a real pain to swap out. I think the idea of cutting the firewall makes a lot of sense actually. You could take the car to a shop have them cut it out for you, and you swap out the core yourself. I think cutting the firewall is the way to go actually, even on a TDI, you have to pull some parts to get access. No bolts to remove, just the 2 heater core hoses and those are simple. Cut the firewall, swap out the core, fabricate some way to replace the cut out section and you're done!!!
If I ever have to do this again, I am going to buy a small cutting wheel and cut the firewall. It's just a heater core, and you're going to replace it anyways. Tricky part is getting access, as it's pretty tight in the engine compartment. Just my 2 cents worth, you can also drive the vehicle with a cut firewall, but you can't drive it with a pulled dash and steering wheel! Check out the link I posted and give it a go, I'll watch the video again as that's not a BEW TDI he's working on. But I still think it would work. I didn't see that video until I was all done and driving the car again basically.
The way shown in this video works, but you HAVE TO DISCHARGE AC! on a BEW TDI. I can guarantee you that much right now. If you cut your firewall you don't have to discharge and recharge, or pull the dash, stg wheel, nothing. You do have to pull intake parts, hoses, and stuff like that, remember diesel fuel is not gasoline, it's not nearly as flammable. Should be okay throwing sparks around... For those going the dash pull method, if you post here I'll try and answer any questions you might have, if you reply to my post it goes to my email, and I'll see your post...
@@scotto1252 (and others) Check out that video again... It really seems like the easiest way and you don't risk messing up steering wheel or wiring, anything, and if you were a really good welder could even weld it back together, but too much work in my opinion. ruclips.net/video/PgXJ61DvzSc/видео.html
@@scotto1252 I think you can do the cut out the firewall trick, worth a try just don't cut the wiring harness!!! Let me know if you attempt it or post here. You must know someone who could help you like a welder guy or retired mechanic, show them that video link. Pulling the dash is a real nightmare! You don't even have to drain any fluids with this method, just don't mess anything up.
You could even go with a cheaper heater core as to change again you just pull it all apart again!
I think I could make some $$$ swapping out heater cores if I mastered that technique, but I already have a day job, I am a journeyman painter in the construction trades. I just turned 64 and I did the dash/stg wheel, AC discharge etc... You can do it!!! Don't give up if you can physically do the work anyways. If disabled then no way...
So a follow up to my earlier posts: I just got the AC recharged at my local Jiffy Lube and it cost me 154$ with tax, guy gave me 10$ off for the Jiffy15 promo, not quite 15% as in the promo. Jiffy Lube mechanic told me if I ever have to do this again to bring it by and he would discharge my AC for free! (He gets to keep the R134 that way)
So its all working now except my dome light won't work as I think I pinched to wire when pulling on the crash bar, and I broke the radio antenna connector when pulling the radio. Hope this helps, but most people probably won't be working on their heater core until next winter! Get the AC discharged 1st before you pull all your dash and can't drive the car anymore as you don't have a steering wheel! On a Mk 4 2005 Jetta (BEW) you have to loosen the AC Heat Exchanger or it won't work. My heat works awesome, defrost, everything! Cost me 200$ or so for Heater Core and gasket, (which I didn't need), and my fluids were brand new as I just had the Timing belt done by VW dealer less than 500 miles prior, (car sat for 6 years though started on occasion). Heater core was leaking. Again hope this helps, discharge AC first, go to Jiffy Lube or get a mobile AC guy to discharge and might give credit on recharge even. Glad it's all over with finally! (Except the dang dome light, radio connector, but I broke those on my own)
Gracias hermano, muy buen trabajo
Gracias
You also need to explain and show how to remove the vent box from mounts or if any other hidden screws
You absolutely saved me!
Ive never done anything like this before, Im on day 2 now, I work untill 3, so its taking awhile.
Im at the point for draining the fluid, my car is lowered, so I'm not able to put anything under it. Im at a stand still. Any suggestions?
Glad it’s helping, I usually drive my lowered golf onto 2x4’s to fit a jack under it but it might be a little late for you. Other option is just clamp both coolant lines at the heater core and remove them, you’ll spill some coolant but won’t be a whole lot.
Dont take the dash out man
Great job bro. After i sent my m4k to a service to replace the heater core i can hear the motor noise coming inside the cabin like never before and it's driving my crazy. Any idea what may have happened or what should i do ? Thnx a lot 🤗
Engine noise or motor like blower motor? There’s a seal between the heater core connection and fire wall, if that’s forgotten I’m sure you’ll hear a lot more engine noise. There’s sound deadening around the hvac system around the glove box so that’d make more hvac fan motor noise. Other then that there’s not much else that could be missing
I have have a 2000 tdi golf and the heater core was leaking causing a smell and slight steaming out of the driver side vent. This also fogs up the windshield with a greasy haze that prevents you from seeing and had caused me to pull over and take my shirt off and use that to clean the windshield getting pulled over in the process. I made it about 2 miles up the road and the same thing, greasy fogged up glass. The coolant smell is enough to cause me to have a coughing fit all the way to work an hour away. This is my only car and I have no money to get another car and the TDI shop hundreds of miles away told me its a big job and they quoted me 1400 just labor and they use the highest quality parts which the most expensive on ECS tuning. They do this because he told me if I get the cheap one the core will leak again in around a year, so they recommend the most expensive one on ECS which is almost 400 dollars. Then to expect the brittle plastic parts that make up the dash to break and not go back on so be ready to source plastic trim panels from junkyard mkiv's.
Ouch that seems really high, an OEM VW heater core is only $200 on IDparts, doesnt get much better then oem. As far as labour I'd imagine 8 hours would be plenty so they seem to have a high labour rate. Either way if its not cold where your at yet you can loop the coolant lines at the firewall to bypass the heater core to atleast make it driveable.
@@JoshsJettas I bought a heater unit from amazon and I'm going to re-route the heater core coolant hoses to the passenger firewall and install the box under the passenger dash. I am gonna route one of the ducts to the dash by the windshield so it blows hot air onto the glass to defrost it. In september its starting to get cold enough for fog to build up on the windshield so it needs to get done fairly quick.
@@ATSNorthernMI You need to do more searching on RUclips as there is a video on how to cut out the firewall and avoid all the AC discharge/recharge issues, and dash removal, stg wheel removal. I will see if I can find it and post it here for everyone. Might be the way to go in my opinion if you don't mind cutting a hole in the firewall, and heater core is toast anyways. Definitely not the proper way to do things! ruclips.net/video/PgXJ61DvzSc/видео.html
🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@MrAlembicMan Thanks for the post but the jetta has more room back there. The TDI sits so close to the firewall you cant even get a hand back in there even if you remove all of the charge piping. I wanted to have a friend help me drill some holes in the passenger footwell to run a couple of heater hoses to a heater box I bought on amazon but it never happened and then on December 12 I hit a deer totaling the car. I banged it back together and hit another deer a week later causing a lot more damage. The car now runs really bad and has a lot of electrical issues so I'm in the process of trying to find another car.
Can anyone say where is the evapourator temp sensor located on a 2003 bora vw
how much you charge me to do that work in my car? excellent video
Did you have to drain your AC for this one or did the ac/heat box come out like that with the AC still connected?
Yup a/c evac for this style
Is there any bolts for hvac box inside car or just the two on the firewall?
I believe just the two hidden ones around the ac lines
The two t4s that hold the thermo expansion valve are motherfs. I had a leaky expansion valve, bottom t4 on the valve was rusted/siezed to the point where I had to cut the expansion valve out. While cutting with an angle grinder I accidentally clipped the hard brake line for front passenger side.
So a used brake line, from abs pump to the front pass side. New expansion valve with o rings. Ended up my evaporator still has leak. So I gave up on fixing ac. F it. Maybe one day I will pull the dash and replace the evaporator and heater core..
Good old aluminum block/steel bolt issues. I’ve got one they want want the a/c working and it’s leaking at the expansion valve, not looking forward to that repair.
@@JoshsJettas the bottom #4 allen head screw was totally siezed inside the expansion valve, it's the insulation cover that letting the water/moisture collect in the bottom screw making it corrode inside. I hope you get lucky.
Holy shit I’m glad I have a mk6
A lot easier then these
Do you have to take the airbag out of the steering wheel ?
Yes just the drivers has to come out, passenger can stay
Спасибо наглядно и быстро
Followed your video, but now the immobilizer is on…any ideas on how to reset it?
Good chance you missed a connector on the key switch. There’s a sensor on it that recognizes your key.
@@JoshsJettas I think I know which one you’re talking about right below the ignition huh
@@JoshsJettas I found the problem…bent connector prongs in the odometer connection points. All good now!!
@@ericmamac6332 awesome glad you found it, the key, cluster and ecu all have to match so obviously it wasn’t seeing the cluster.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
how long from start to finish ?
Difficult to say as videoing takes up time, 6-8 hours including A/c work. I’ve done 2 a few years ago which both had the split box type and they were 4 hours with power tools.
@@JoshsJettas First time doing this job with my Son on the driveway, made a few mistakes and added things. 1.Heater core hoses Son didn't see quick connections removed clamps 2.didnt know about 2 10mm nuts holding ac to firewall not in video. 3. Was getting foam flying around and heat all the time so I copied a youtube video on using good temp +- aluminum + foam to reseal heater core flap luver inside. 4. Also put masking tape and write example: 1 of 2 stering wheel. Because in one case I have spot on wheel that's missing a cable connector I'm hoping is for options or troubleshooting.
Sure wish you had slow down a little. Getting the ashtray assembly out is a little more complicated than just pulling it out. Have to go find a video on how to get to the plug without breaking stuff.
Do not take out the dash its only an hr job from under the dash
@@robwells5753 yeah sure. Post a video of that. You've obviously never taken one of these apart.
Here is another option! (Don't think it will work on a BEW engine though...)
Don't try this unless you really know what you are doing!!! Might cut the wiring harness or other items, you almost have to have done the heater core removal first before attempting something like this. Disclaimer: I did not create this video I just found it in my research for my bad heater core. I did mine the "old fashioned way", the way Josh's Jetta does in this video, but I have to get my AC serviced now I also broke an airbag connector and had to remove the steering wheel and all the dash, etc... I really think this other way is the better way if you can do it, because if you ever need to change out the heater core, it's going to be super easy. ruclips.net/video/PgXJ61DvzSc/видео.html Watch that video a few times, I have 2, 2005 TDI's and one needs a clutch, so I just might attempt this other method if that core ever goes out on me. Your mileage may vary...but there is a way to do this without taking out the dash! You just need some metal cutting tools basically and autobody skills. Best of luck, having another 2005 TDI to look at helps immensely if you forgot something, where it goes, etc... Never thought of that before. Both my cars are 200,000 miles+ and engines still run good. Change oil about every 10,000 miles, with Lubri-Molly VW505-01 specs, 5w-40 fully synthetic. I get it at Napa, or online.
The earlier mk4 cars are easier as they have a split in the box between the A/C evaporator and heater core saving evacuating the A/C. In that video it was done on an earlier TDI so it should work on BEW. Other option would be cut into the rain tray and lift it up and out instead of cutting the box all up.
@@JoshsJettas I was just sharing that link in case anyone wants to give it a go with the die grinder, my heater works now and the local shop wants 250$ to recharge the AC, as much as all the parts I purchased for the heater core. I suppose it goes with the territory, looking for a lower cost mechanic to do the recharge. WA state has new regulations for AC now that make it way harder to do AC work. Heater is working great though! Just followed your video mostly as the vehicle was very similar to my vehicle. Thanks for posting the video!!! A real lifesaver...
Josh, you're right of course, but if anyone wants to cut the firewall they have all the links necessary to give it a try, I didn't do it, I pulled the dash.
@@JoshsJettas You might be onto something there, the rain tray and rewelding it. I have not seen any you tube video's on that. Sure would be easier access. These cars are getting to end of life and who cares if you cut into the metal as long as it's replaced and repainted correctly.
I also am throwing an EGR light now, might have a loose vacuum hose somewhere, forgot to mention that. I might have the dealer look at it at some point if I can't fix it. Dealer is good for some things, computer type stuff. Anything labor intensive no way. They actually hope you'll trade in your TDI as they are still getting buyers for them. I had a dream last night that I traded in my VW for some Honda CR4 deal (kind of hazy), and when I woke up I was happy that it was a dream and I still had my 2005 TDI Jetta! And did not get ripped off by the dealer! Lol...
My method I found might only work on gas engines, not sure. Here's the link again: ruclips.net/video/PgXJ61DvzSc/видео.html I asked if the vehicle was a diesel or not, does not appear to be a BEW engine... Bummer...
People should watch that video I have the link to, read all the comments. It seems like it would work. Took me a lot more than 8 hours to swap out mine pulling the dash, and I still have to recharge my AC, my dome lights arent' working now, and after the steering wheel swap I don't have cruise control anymore, (I think that can be fixed by the dealer though, by reprogramming the chip for the cruise control as I swapped out steering wheels)
I think this cut out method works on BEW TDI's as well. Just don't cut the wiring!
Nice tutorial! Wondering if you ever got my email? Thank you!
Yes just replying to it now
Oh ya the $$$ it's all about cutting pennies that's why they quit splitting the heater hosing.
Yeah the 2 I did previously were late 99 models so I wasn’t sure if it was a mk3 design they carried over and then figured it was cheaper to assemble it as one piece. Makes life harder when it comes to this though
Сколько лишней работы...
Steering wheel definitely worst part
That air bag is definitely frustrating
The dash does NOT need to come out its actually really easy like only one hr please dont do the extra shit
How could you get to the core without taking the dash apart? Is there a video link you could share?
It’s not fitting out unless you either cut the dash or cut the firewall.
I need to do my heater core in my 2004 Jetta TDI. Do you have a video to show how to do this without removing the dash?
@@kel5194 You cant.. this guy is probably thinking of MK5 and up cars where you don't need to pull the dash. MK4 you're screwed.
@@carosigarage thanks for your response. I'm putting it all back together now. When I did the AC evacuation to do you know if all of the oil in the AC would have been removed? I know it circulates through the system, but I don't know if any remained in the compressor. So I'm curious how much PAG oil I need to add?
i do this job before 1 year on bew tdi its take to me 5 hours i was bending support for this tube 2 inch and get out fast all assembly and put back from city golf heat cor and ac core together