17:22 Hello, I've put the upper control arm / wishbone in place but the bolts won't go through, just wondering if anyone has some tips please to align the holes so that they go through easier?... 🤔
I got new ones installed and I think mechanic caused an issue. He said there is 1/16" of play in the new ones, but can that happen by incorrectly installing them? I am stuck in the middle.
Replaced the uppers on mine and torqued upper bolts to spec and it just hangs loose. Is this normal? Thought there should be a locking nut somewhere...
I appreciate your making this video. But, your comment at 4:28 regarding 6-point and 12-point sockets: where have you ever seen 12-point nuts? The real reason for 12-point sockets is to make it easier to position it onto the nut - for where the required effort is not great. The reason for 6-point sockets is to get a more robust grip, as for difficult bolts. Also, minor safety tip: do not extract those cotter-pins, as at 3:35, using wire cutters. Use a needle-nose plier. You do not want to risk cutting that pin and having it break apart in use if the repairer happens to re-use it.
+Sam Sayer This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
i messed up so bad and loosed the nut on top of the strut and the spring blew the cap off and stripped the bolt. changed my control arm lol but had to order new struts. needed them anyways but yeah. thanks for the videos
6pt slips 100 times more than 12pt.. i dunno where u got that info from... how could less points of contact be better than more ? also I didnt have to loosen the strut mount bolts, just put a jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring, or lower the car on some wood blocks under the lower control arm to compress the spring to free the bolts saved tons of time
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Just jack up the lower control arm up and get the bolts out that way a lot faster and easier
Len needs to be the permanent instructor.
Loved the video really a great teacher You Make It Feel Self Doable
Looks like the rubber gatter on the shock absorber is knackered.
If the spring had been compressed from the bottom it would have cleared the bolts 👍
Thanks a bunch, my GS was straight kicking my butt for a sec there
+Ant B Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
shouldn't the final fastener tightening and torque setting be applied with the suspensions under load?
why did'nt you use a 6 point box wrench to break a 6 point fastener at 6:42? just earlier you told us 12 point on 6 point fastener can damage?
what do you do if the knuckle won’t loosen from the ball joint? The nut is completely off but the knuckle and ball joint are stuck there.
Just take a hammer and hit the thing like he explained in the video.. The vibration should be enough to break it free.
thanks for the vid!
+hairystyles42 Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto
Doesn't this job require you to pre-load the arms before tightening the bots up?
17:22 Hello, I've put the upper control arm / wishbone in place but the bolts won't go through, just wondering if anyone has some tips please to align the holes so that they go through easier?... 🤔
Did you torque those bushing bolts without compressing the spring?
The workshop manual does tells you to torque them when the suspension is under load.
I got new ones installed and I think mechanic caused an issue. He said there is 1/16" of play in the new ones, but can that happen by incorrectly installing them? I am stuck in the middle.
Len rules!
+Effin Sweet We think so too! Thanks for checking us out!
Replaced the uppers on mine and torqued upper bolts to spec and it just hangs loose. Is this normal? Thought there should be a locking nut somewhere...
I appreciate your making this video. But, your comment at 4:28 regarding 6-point and 12-point sockets: where have you ever seen 12-point nuts? The real reason for 12-point sockets is to make it easier to position it onto the nut - for where the required effort is not great. The reason for 6-point sockets is to get a more robust grip, as for difficult bolts.
Also, minor safety tip: do not extract those cotter-pins, as at 3:35, using wire cutters. Use a needle-nose plier. You do not want to risk cutting that pin and having it break apart in use if the repairer happens to re-use it.
+James Hurst Thanks for the tip!
Would this same process work on a ls400 97’
almost identical suspension setup
6:20
Quit focusing on my safety
Would this work the same on an ‘06?
+Sam Sayer This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
9:30, 12:15
i messed up so bad and loosed the nut on top of the strut and the spring blew the cap off and stripped the bolt. changed my control arm lol but had to order new struts. needed them anyways but yeah. thanks for the videos
+Michael Sanchez Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
knock it out in 30 min . thx guys!
U ripped the rubber on the strut on ur pulling on it.
6pt slips 100 times more than 12pt.. i dunno where u got that info from... how could less points of contact be better than more ? also I didnt have to loosen the strut mount bolts, just put a jack under the lower control arm to compress the spring, or lower the car on some wood blocks under the lower control arm to compress the spring to free the bolts saved tons of time
+HOTRODRICO Thanks for the feedback!
please recycle.... booo...