Setting Klipper up can be overwhelming to us newbies. But thanks to channels like this, I'll take the plunge and dive right in uncharted waters. It's about the journey, my friend. Thanks for all the invaluable lessons. Btw, nice bedslinger you've got there.
I am new to Klipper, having only started with it maybe 3 days ago. You have helped me understand parts of it so much more easily. I ran through this Input Shaper setup earlier today and just wow. I've had ghosting on my prints since I started a couple of years ago, and this has made an immediate improvement. Thank you so much. Keep up the good work!
@@Bennett_Lab While you are correct, I think many people are having issues getting their accelerometer to work or do not have a good place to mount it into their machines. I know I have directed a few people this way to check out this video. Chris also gives good explanation as to what is going on, so even if they are able to plug and play their accelerometer this will allow them to have a better understanding.
Chris, great job explaining this, and thanks for breaking it into 2 parts. The ADXL will be great to see, but this helps with understanding what is happening.
My SD card on my SUNLU S8 printer died. I was forced to try klipper. So far so good. I did a manual input shaper, while waiting for my 345 board. Can't wait to see the difference.
I’m thinking I may eventually build a Voron, but not until I complete the projects I’m currently doing. I’m building the Micro Jib by Mechanistic and the comes the Candy claw.
This is great information. I was doing this yesterday but was getting nowhere with it. I’m using the Sonic Pad with the Anycubic Vyper and in the pads last update they fixed the issue for resonance measuring and now I can do it with the included sensor. Thanks for this great video.
Hey Chris, can you do one for the Marlin input shaping one? I tried following Teaching Tech's tutorial, but I don't see any noticeable changes in the printed model. What I want to know is if there is a way to fine tune the test gcode, like you can with linear advance... You know how you can get more precision in the increments by using that configurator? This input shaper instructions says to do .2mm layer height with the after layer change gcode and that's all I have to work with. I see a space in x and y that looks only slightly better but not enough to make a big difference in my print quality. I want a wider range of changes to narrow it down to a more precise number, or to change the values in the gcode layer change to a wider range, but I have no idea where to start.
I've been using klipper for some time and recently bought the accelerometer, but I'm using orange pi zero2 with skr1.4 turbo and I've not gotten into connecting the accelerometer to the orange pi. I've read some topics about using arduino nano that is connected to mcu as a helper because its tricky to use gpio on orange pi.
Grate video I can't wait to see what you do for Marlins input shaping. I spent a few days getting the process down to make a little guide for users of Professional firmware for the Ender 3 V2/S1 I have been hoping someone would make a video for it
well this is fascinating.. i just ordered the creality sonic pad (will be here next monday) i read it includes a sensor that automatically configures input shaper. I am following your explanations closely, so i will (hopefully) be able to use your configuration and compare it to the automatic one of the sensor. Thanks for being so clear!!!
Another important question to consider is the placement of the accelerometer. I've integrated mine into the EBB42, which means it can't be positioned as close to the nozzle as a separate ADXL345 board. Do you think this physical positioning on the extruder stepper might skew the readings to a point where they're not useful? Are there configuration parameters that accommodate a probe position on the opposite side of the x-carriage? (I'm using an Ender 5 where the gantry, not the build plate, moves in the x and y axes.) Wouldn't you need two sensors for a printer with a moving build plate?
The placement of the sensor shouldn't matter that much. As long as you have it level to the axis depending on the sensor and placement. So in your case, that one sensor anywhere on the print head should do the job we are trying to achieve. And yes, you would need a separate sensor to calibrate Y if it is a moving bed.
OK, I saw the same vertical bands in your post tuning print that I have in my bed slinger. Spaced about the distance of belt teeth. Any suggestion to reduce them? It's actually worse on 1 side of an axis than walls on the other side of the same axis. I've already tried toothed idlers.
I struggle with that on a lot of printers. I have never found a good fix. Sometimes I have reduced the belt tension and switched to shafts instead of screws. It helps, but they don't go away completely.
Hola Chris desde Colombia, tengo una 3D tipo Delta (1200 mm. De alta), no es como las de ustedes, de fabrica ni nada de eso; la fabrique yo mismo desde ceros, no funciona con correas, trabaja con 3 husillos, y es de estructura firme, pesada en hierro la cual le da una firmeza excepcional, he realizado infinidad de piezas y tiene una desviación standard de aprox. 0,002 mm., A pesar de ser casera y para mi esto ha sido súper, pero aun quiero corregir errores similares a estos, los cuales se presentan casi al finalizar las piezas en especial a una altura de 50 mm. Aproximadamente (siempre comienza a atascar el material)... quiero dar gracias sinceras ya que sus videos a parte de otros más me han servido bastante para mejorar esos errores los cuales nunca creí poder hacerlo...
¡Hola, es genial escuchar esto! Su impresora suena increíble. Cuando ve un problema como usted, generalmente se trata de una fuga de calor. Intente sumergir el filamento en un poco de aceite de cocina antes de comenzar una impresión. Esto podría sazonar su descanso térmico y permitirle imprimir sin atascos.
@@ChrisRiley Gracias por sus consejos, estoy tratando de hacer unos videos de como la fabrique; se que no me queda el tiempo suficiente por cuestiones de horarios en el trabajo, pero aqui la puedes ir viendo en acción en este primer video ( ruclips.net/video/8nIh3TpHrBo/видео.html )... Ya uno de mis sueños esta cumplido, que fue el hacerme una de este tipo Delta, pues solo me queda tratar de poder ahorrar si algun dia tengo la FLSUN Super Racer... Gracias nuevamente por sus consejos y videos los cuales han sabido apoyar mi proyecto.
Just a thought, could one use a thin sheet of paper and the side of a pencil lead to make an impression of the ringing which could then be used to make measurements?
@05:35 I've always been wondering but why just 100mm/s when obviously we will be printing at higher speeds? Wouldn't it making sense to use values for the test that resemble the speeds of 200-300mm/s we aim for? 🤔🤨
@@ChrisRiley For a moment I was like _"Uhh?" 🤔_ until I took another peek at the i3 MK3S default Quality Settings which painfully reminded me of not a single Speed setting going above 100mm/s and very few in fact making it even past 50mm/s. Gonna have to give my V2.4 another *_High5_* for not being such a slouch 😁 ( should probably do it before doing the dreaded LGX Lite + CAN + TAP Total Conversion I had planned these days 😑 )
Very well explained here! I honestly, I don't think "the guy" did a good job explaining it. I couldn't figure out if I was measuring the one with least ringing, or the most.
I have a new Comgrow T300 from Sovol. It came with Klipper installed. I have upgraded, calibrated, tuned, and unlocked the other klipper settings for saving bed meshes. Do I need an accelerometer to make this work? Or is the T300 able to be tuned with input shaper without extra equipment? Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley Sorry for my bad explanation .... No i'm talking about the difference before the calibration, and after the calibration in time on the same STL file. What is the difference between a 200mm/s print that lasts an hour, before input shaping, and one without input shaping. Because as I see it, the input shaping will slow down the print speed, so it will look nicer, but takes longer time to print. Isn't that correct?
@@timm3802 You are correct, when enabling input shaping it COULD slow it down, but the idea is to find the resonance of each axis and filter it out. The filtering could impact speed, but mostly not. The filtering mostly impact how the different parts of the prints are preformed. Like the corners tend to be smoothed and not as pointed if filtering becomes too much.
I'm already using input shaping with klipper. This is the most clearly explained and detailed tutorial I've seen about input shaping so far. I'm longing for the part 2 with accelometer. My printer input shaper settings are made using accelometer but I'm not so sure if I've done it exactly right and if I could dial it perfectly.
So, once you've dialed that in, do you just keep acceleration control turned off on your slicer? I have a weird situation where my acceleration is best at 600 while it's printing. But when it moves, there is resonance in the motors (E6) where I'd want to accelerate at 5K, which causes the "scraping/vibrating" sound when it moves the carriage unloaded to go away. Is there an acceleration setting you can set for moves (not moves+extrusions)? As I'm using Cura, I'd have the same question for both Acceleration and Jerk.
And I guess this might have already been assumed, but if you want to print faster, I assume you'll want to repeat this calibration for the new speed as resonance won't necessarily scale linearly, right?
Prusa this and Prusa that, sorry not interested in hearing or using anything geared to one company. Klipper and input shapoer are agnostic so lose the prusa shilling. And if a slicer won't let me push a job through usb why would i want to use it? FYI: I didn't look for this vid, utub pushed it to me.
Strangely enough, after I changed my shaper_freq values for x and y, and then restarting, and then sending the set_input_shaper command, the values did not correspond to what I manually set them to in the printer.cfg file. They are both different values, even though when I go back into the printer.cfg file it shows the values that I set. Could it be that by first doing the automatic resonance tuning that it somehow permanently "takes over" the settings? I can see a section above my input_shaper section that shows the following: # [mcu rpi] # serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu # [adxl345] # cs_pin: rpi:None # spi_speed: 2000000 # spi_bus: spidev2.0 # [resonance_tester] # accel_chip: adxl345 # accel_per_hz: 70 # probe_points: # 117.5,117.5,10 Does that need to be deleted for my manual values to work?
Check down in the bottom of the file, the settings down there it tells you not to delete act like eprom and save the commands you send. Clean that setting out as well.
![Klipper input shaping - A leap forward in high speed AND high quality 3D printing [Rat Rig part 4]](/img/1.gif)
Setting Klipper up can be overwhelming to us newbies. But thanks to channels like this, I'll take the plunge and dive right in uncharted waters. It's about the journey, my friend. Thanks for all the invaluable lessons. Btw, nice bedslinger you've got there.
Thank you, I'm happy to help!
I am new to Klipper, having only started with it maybe 3 days ago. You have helped me understand parts of it so much more easily. I ran through this Input Shaper setup earlier today and just wow. I've had ghosting on my prints since I started a couple of years ago, and this has made an immediate improvement. Thank you so much. Keep up the good work!
Rob, that is great to hear! Thank you for the comment! Glad this is helping you out.
Clear explanation! Thanks
Awesome, glad it was helpful.
Marlin will be gaining more improvements to Input Shaping over the coming months thanks to contributions from Ulendo.io so stay tuned!
Thanks Scott! Looking forward to it!.
I think a lot of folks who got a sonic pad will be very happy to have this series. Great Job
Thank you!
The accelerometer that comes with the sonic pad negates the need to do these tests
@@Bennett_Lab While you are correct, I think many people are having issues getting their accelerometer to work or do not have a good place to mount it into their machines. I know I have directed a few people this way to check out this video. Chris also gives good explanation as to what is going on, so even if they are able to plug and play their accelerometer this will allow them to have a better understanding.
Great Video!
Thanks!
Thi is an epic series Chris once again thanks for posting !!!
Thanks!
Thanks for doing this series Chris! ;)
More to come! Thanks for watching
Thanks Chris, great timing. I just finished my 2.4 r2. So I'm ready for tuning. This was a great explanation and walk through.
Thanks again, Steve
Thanks Steve, more to come!
Excellent video. Great results. May need to go back to Klipper. Thanks Chris.
Thank you!
This is so interesting. Thanks for the upload!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Please make a viedo about Inputshaper at Marlin 2.1.2!! Please!!!
I'll see what I can do!
@@ChrisRiley NIIIIIICE and Please
As an alternative you can try GH Enterprise Smart Shapers
You will be the first, will draw tons off views.
This please!
Chris, great job explaining this, and thanks for breaking it into 2 parts. The ADXL will be great to see, but this helps with understanding what is happening.
Thanks Dave!
The cool thing about tuning tower is that it works (I believe) with any command that can be entered by CLI.
Not sure what all will work, but I know there are a couple of different things you can do with it. Lots of cool features baked in.
My SD card on my SUNLU S8 printer died. I was forced to try klipper. So far so good. I did a manual input shaper, while waiting for my 345 board. Can't wait to see the difference.
Awesome, Input Shaper is a lot of fun to experiment with.
Impressive changes to the quality of the test print.
🙂👍
Looking forward to the next part!
Thanks!
I’m thinking I may eventually build a Voron, but not until I complete the projects I’m currently doing. I’m building the Micro Jib by Mechanistic and the comes the Candy claw.
Will be interesting to see your Candy Claw
Super excited to see the Candy Claw!
Exactly what we need! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video as usual Chris. I watch just about everything you put out and this one is something I need to look into for my Mk3S.
Thanks for watching!
Great thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching!
Yes yes yes thanks please more klipper setups skr e3v3 for example
Thanks for watching!
Thanks you do a great job of explaining
Thanks for watching!
Спасибо, Крис! Очень интересные видео. Смотрю с удовольствием!
Спасибо, что смотрите наши видео
This is great information. I was doing this yesterday but was getting nowhere with it. I’m using the Sonic Pad with the Anycubic Vyper and in the pads last update they fixed the issue for resonance measuring and now I can do it with the included sensor.
Thanks for this great video.
Glad it was helpful!
I noticed that they made some changes on the resonance compensation page. #2 is different for example
I heard they changed this up, I might need to redo the video.
@@ChrisRiley Maybe! I still managed to use your video alongside several other resources to guide me. Thanks for your efforts!
Hey Chris, can you do one for the Marlin input shaping one? I tried following Teaching Tech's tutorial, but I don't see any noticeable changes in the printed model. What I want to know is if there is a way to fine tune the test gcode, like you can with linear advance... You know how you can get more precision in the increments by using that configurator? This input shaper instructions says to do .2mm layer height with the after layer change gcode and that's all I have to work with. I see a space in x and y that looks only slightly better but not enough to make a big difference in my print quality. I want a wider range of changes to narrow it down to a more precise number, or to change the values in the gcode layer change to a wider range, but I have no idea where to start.
You are in luck, I just completed a video for this. It will be out soon.
@@ChrisRiley Awesome! hope you go into more detail about it.
That’s great. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I've been using klipper for some time and recently bought the accelerometer, but I'm using orange pi zero2 with skr1.4 turbo and I've not gotten into connecting the accelerometer to the orange pi. I've read some topics about using arduino nano that is connected to mcu as a helper because its tricky to use gpio on orange pi.
I've never tried the orange pi in the setup, but I have a video next week that runs through the accelerometer setup, not sure if it will help or not.
Chris at 8:05 setting the limit accel to decell. I not see that now. So is it still needed?
It looks like that part is is included in the calibration process now. I would follow the directions.
great video chris! I have a question, after doing the input shaping, should i recalibrate pressure advance and max Maximum Volumetric Flow Rate
Thank you! I would, yes, any time you adjust speed I would give these another check just to make sure they are keeping up.
Very interesting
Thank you!
Have my accelerometer ready - eagerly waiting part 2!
Coming soon!
Grate video I can't wait to see what you do for Marlins input shaping. I spent a few days getting the process down to make a little guide for users of Professional firmware for the Ender 3 V2/S1 I have been hoping someone would make a video for it
Thanks!
well this is fascinating.. i just ordered the creality sonic pad (will be here next monday) i read it includes a sensor that automatically configures input shaper. I am following your explanations closely, so i will (hopefully) be able to use your configuration and compare it to the automatic one of the sensor. Thanks for being so clear!!!
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your projects!
Another important question to consider is the placement of the accelerometer. I've integrated mine into the EBB42, which means it can't be positioned as close to the nozzle as a separate ADXL345 board. Do you think this physical positioning on the extruder stepper might skew the readings to a point where they're not useful? Are there configuration parameters that accommodate a probe position on the opposite side of the x-carriage? (I'm using an Ender 5 where the gantry, not the build plate, moves in the x and y axes.) Wouldn't you need two sensors for a printer with a moving build plate?
The placement of the sensor shouldn't matter that much. As long as you have it level to the axis depending on the sensor and placement. So in your case, that one sensor anywhere on the print head should do the job we are trying to achieve. And yes, you would need a separate sensor to calibrate Y if it is a moving bed.
OK, I saw the same vertical bands in your post tuning print that I have in my bed slinger. Spaced about the distance of belt teeth. Any suggestion to reduce them? It's actually worse on 1 side of an axis than walls on the other side of the same axis. I've already tried toothed idlers.
I struggle with that on a lot of printers. I have never found a good fix. Sometimes I have reduced the belt tension and switched to shafts instead of screws. It helps, but they don't go away completely.
Hola Chris desde Colombia, tengo una 3D tipo Delta (1200 mm. De alta), no es como las de ustedes, de fabrica ni nada de eso; la fabrique yo mismo desde ceros, no funciona con correas, trabaja con 3 husillos, y es de estructura firme, pesada en hierro la cual le da una firmeza excepcional, he realizado infinidad de piezas y tiene una desviación standard de aprox. 0,002 mm., A pesar de ser casera y para mi esto ha sido súper, pero aun quiero corregir errores similares a estos, los cuales se presentan casi al finalizar las piezas en especial a una altura de 50 mm. Aproximadamente (siempre comienza a atascar el material)... quiero dar gracias sinceras ya que sus videos a parte de otros más me han servido bastante para mejorar esos errores los cuales nunca creí poder hacerlo...
¡Hola, es genial escuchar esto! Su impresora suena increíble. Cuando ve un problema como usted, generalmente se trata de una fuga de calor. Intente sumergir el filamento en un poco de aceite de cocina antes de comenzar una impresión. Esto podría sazonar su descanso térmico y permitirle imprimir sin atascos.
@@ChrisRiley Gracias por sus consejos, estoy tratando de hacer unos videos de como la fabrique; se que no me queda el tiempo suficiente por cuestiones de horarios en el trabajo, pero aqui la puedes ir viendo en acción en este primer video ( ruclips.net/video/8nIh3TpHrBo/видео.html )... Ya uno de mis sueños esta cumplido, que fue el hacerme una de este tipo Delta, pues solo me queda tratar de poder ahorrar si algun dia tengo la FLSUN Super Racer... Gracias nuevamente por sus consejos y videos los cuales han sabido apoyar mi proyecto.
do we need to re enable anything in the slicer settings after the test is done? like the machine limits?
Not with Klipper for the most part. All the slicers I see don't inject klipper commands. I would still leave accel control off if you have it.
Just a thought, could one use a thin sheet of paper and the side of a pencil lead to make an impression of the ringing which could then be used to make measurements?
I suppose so. Thanks
@05:35 I've always been wondering but why just 100mm/s when obviously we will be printing at higher speeds?
Wouldn't it making sense to use values for the test that resemble the speeds of 200-300mm/s we aim for? 🤔🤨
I think this is more of a "get you in the door" speed. 100 is a lot of speed for a lot printers out there still.
@@ChrisRiley For a moment I was like _"Uhh?" 🤔_ until I took another peek at the i3 MK3S default Quality Settings which painfully reminded me of not a single Speed setting going above 100mm/s and very few in fact making it even past 50mm/s.
Gonna have to give my V2.4 another *_High5_* for not being such a slouch 😁
( should probably do it before doing the dreaded LGX Lite + CAN + TAP Total Conversion I had planned these days 😑 )
Very well explained here!
I honestly, I don't think "the guy" did a good job explaining it. I couldn't figure out if I was measuring the one with least ringing, or the most.
Thank you!
do you need to switch off layer time goal in Superslicer
I don't use it, but from the sound of it, I would guess you would want to turn it off.
I have a new Comgrow T300 from Sovol. It came with Klipper installed. I have upgraded, calibrated, tuned, and unlocked the other klipper settings for saving bed meshes. Do I need an accelerometer to make this work? Or is the T300 able to be tuned with input shaper without extra equipment? Thanks!
But what it the time difference on a 200mm/s print before and after input shaping? Because imo the new printer.cfg will now slow down your prints.
Not sure I understand, 200ms print? Are you talking about during the calibration?
@@ChrisRiley Sorry for my bad explanation .... No i'm talking about the difference before the calibration, and after the calibration in time on the same STL file.
What is the difference between a 200mm/s print that lasts an hour, before input shaping, and one without input shaping.
Because as I see it, the input shaping will slow down the print speed, so it will look nicer, but takes longer time to print. Isn't that correct?
@@timm3802 You are correct, when enabling input shaping it COULD slow it down, but the idea is to find the resonance of each axis and filter it out. The filtering could impact speed, but mostly not. The filtering mostly impact how the different parts of the prints are preformed. Like the corners tend to be smoothed and not as pointed if filtering becomes too much.
How to define corrent motor in printer.cfg?
It's done with run_current like this.
[tmc2209 stepper_y]
uart_pin: PC11
tx_pin: PC10
diag_pin: ^PC1
uart_address: 2
run_current: 0.5
hold_current: 0.5
interpolate: False
stealthchop_threshold: 0
## Uncomment if using sensorless Y homing.
driver_SGTHRS: 120 # tune this once it's working.
Can this be done to Prusa MK3(s+) ? Are you going to make any video for it?
It can be and I could do that.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you.
Perfect timing dude! Have 2 Mk3s and Voron v0.1 just bought ADXL and waiting on your super detailed and helpful video! ^_^
👍🙂
I'm already using input shaping with klipper. This is the most clearly explained and detailed tutorial I've seen about input shaping so far. I'm longing for the part 2 with accelometer. My printer input shaper settings are made using accelometer but I'm not so sure if I've done it exactly right and if I could dial it perfectly.
Coming soon!
@@ChrisRiley longing for it! checking regularly if it's uploaded :) Thanks for your efforts
So, once you've dialed that in, do you just keep acceleration control turned off on your slicer? I have a weird situation where my acceleration is best at 600 while it's printing. But when it moves, there is resonance in the motors (E6) where I'd want to accelerate at 5K, which causes the "scraping/vibrating" sound when it moves the carriage unloaded to go away. Is there an acceleration setting you can set for moves (not moves+extrusions)?
As I'm using Cura, I'd have the same question for both Acceleration and Jerk.
And I guess this might have already been assumed, but if you want to print faster, I assume you'll want to repeat this calibration for the new speed as resonance won't necessarily scale linearly, right?
you don't need to turn it off cura can still control the acceleration or you can set it in klipper and let klipper control acceleration
👍🙂
I’m using Klipper, and my bed is 300X300 but it see 150X150......cannot get it set at 300 in config ...older cr10s v1...help!!!!
You have these settings in you config??? position_endstop: 300
👍
🙂
„This could possibly damage your 3D printer“ 🤔 but then I will have a well calibrated broken printer
LOL, exactly!
Prusa this and Prusa that, sorry not interested in hearing or using anything geared to one company.
Klipper and input shapoer are agnostic so lose the prusa shilling.
And if a slicer won't let me push a job through usb why would i want to use it?
FYI: I didn't look for this vid, utub pushed it to me.
Thanks, have a nice day!
Strangely enough, after I changed my shaper_freq values for x and y, and then restarting, and then sending the set_input_shaper command, the values did not correspond to what I manually set them to in the printer.cfg file. They are both different values, even though when I go back into the printer.cfg file it shows the values that I set. Could it be that by first doing the automatic resonance tuning that it somehow permanently "takes over" the settings?
I can see a section above my input_shaper section that shows the following:
# [mcu rpi]
# serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu
# [adxl345]
# cs_pin: rpi:None
# spi_speed: 2000000
# spi_bus: spidev2.0
# [resonance_tester]
# accel_chip: adxl345
# accel_per_hz: 70
# probe_points:
# 117.5,117.5,10
Does that need to be deleted for my manual values to work?
Check down in the bottom of the file, the settings down there it tells you not to delete act like eprom and save the commands you send. Clean that setting out as well.