Remember e.g. on i3 style machines, if you have your spool holder mounted on top of the frame, your resonance frequency (especially y-axis) changes with decreasing mass (weight) on the spool and increasing mass of an ongoing print. Better to choose a value for y slightly higher than calculated to.compensate for these effects.
After going over this myself and having to troubleshoot many hours, here's 2 important points i wish i heard when i started: -If you are generating a ringing test that does not induce ringing, check the speed (which you should always do anyways btw), because many slicers have a minimum layer time threshold, which if left on can be overriding your set external perimeter speed and can be quite frustrating to find what is capping it. -You actually CAN insert the input shaping command in Cura, using the "Insert at Layer Change" Script from the Post Processing Plugin, it makes it so much easier not having to start profiles from the ground up in a new slicer. I wish that could be added to the description of the video so the many Cura users that might want to implement this can skip some headaches as well. Great video as well.
I literally just downloaded PrusaSlicer for this, installed it, then read this comment. I dont really want to use a new slicer for setup that I dont plan to use everyday. Thank you.
Before looking at input shaping pay attention to frame rigidity and belt tension. If you have a bed slinger a brace for the tower makes a huge difference. For instance I'm resurrecting an early Tenlog D3, a very generic idex bed slinger. Before I started it had terrible ringing even at 50mm/s, 500 acceleration. With tower braces made from two 8mm carbon tubes, the Y axis driver replaced with a TMC2209(more on order for the other axes) and klipper installed I'm getting virtually perfect 35 minute PETG benchies using 100mm/s and 7000 acceleration with a small amount of input shaping. Admittedly I do drop the outer wall speed to 75mm/s, 3000 accel. 7000 accel still leaves a bit of ringing.
Hey Michael , Great vid as always , but @ 10:42 you measure X being 19mm and Y being 16.3mm , However you apply them in reverse @ 11:07 in the Video , Swap them and do a reprint !! :-) ,
Fun fact: When you tilt your head side to side, your eyes will rotate in their sockets to stay level until they run out of travel room. And you cannot stop them from doing it
I have controle over mine if I'm in the shower and focus on the ground. When I tile my head I can sometimes lock them so my vision goes somewhat sideways. I just found out I could do it when I was just swaying in the shower and my vision locked on the ground.
I enable input shaping and made the test print at 15-60hz, but I see literally no difference between any of the layers. Does this mean my printer doesnt need it? Should I simply leave it disabled, I did the test print at 150mm speed. It's an ender 5 plus and I have all the corners reinforced with braces.
What is your acceleration? Did you ever get to utilize it, did you turn it off since you saw no noticeable improvements? Been trying it out on mine and getting weird blobbing before or after the seams.
I'm a fellow Aussie that is just getting into 3D printing. Can I just say that your channel has been very useful so far! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge!
I have a Biqu B1 and compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with Input Shapeing and Lin Advance enabled and after calibration I am happy to get 30%-50% more speed in my printings. Best free upgrade
Thank you for the video and I know these steps make sense for most of the people but I couldn't follow. Can't you show more of the steps with small examples instead of referring to previous videos, because the firmwares, folders and steps are different now. Still, huge fan of your work.
If using Prusa Slicer then don't fall for the trap of leaving the "default" value in "acceleration control (advanced)" under "Print Settings">"Speed" I couldn't work out why everything was coming out so good.
Great videos! Thank you for the tips. I have 2 questions. 1. Does the input shaping works even when you use a host to print (like octoprint over usb)? 2. Can you transfer the input shape values from Klipper to Marlin on the same printer?
1. Yes it will work with SD card prints or Octoprint. Input shaping is a live smoothing algorithm. It will work regardless of how the MCU receives its gcode as it applies the counter frequency to the stepper movements. 2. Yes, the value is just of the printer's resonance frequency. How you arrive at that resonance is irrelevant. Provided that your tested and verified values from klipper (or reprap) are using ZV algorithm they should carry over perfectly. Of note, EI works better in my experience for beg slingers than ZV due to it being able to handle the more frequency changes caused by the moving bed. So if you have Klipper aand are using EI or 2HEI, you will likely notice a decline in quality if you step back to Marlin. ZV is just easier to calculate than any of the other algorithms, which is good for the common Marlin boards on the market and their lower processing power.
This sounds like a great upgrade. Is there a way to implement this for idiots? For person who’s eyes glazed over a few minutes in? For those who have dreams about having a final exam but never went to class? For those who click “update” and it just works? Asking for a friend.
Wow, I had no idea Marlin supports Input Shaping, spent all night reconfiguring it for my printer, got it working already, now time to calibrate the values :) I'm having so much fun thanks to you
i added it pretty much as soon as the 2.1.2 dropped, and its been a blast, im currently printing at around 250mm/s and 3.5-4k accel, jd of 0.15 and jerk of 20, and it looks amazing, my board is an skr 1.4 and i also have a tft 35 v2.0
@@Festivejelly I started with JD but went back to jerk, in my application wasn't working very well, it's a normal bed slinger and I have a few speedbenchys runs on my channel
Thank you Michael. At the end it may also be advisable to go back and set the X and Y frequencies in Configuration_adv.h and rebuild (again!). These frequencies bake in the minimum shaping frequencies that Marlin can do without sometimes having to back off the input shaping effect. Alternatively if you have tons of RAM just pick low frequencies at the outset or use SHAPING_MIN_FREQ. (Under the covers this is all affecting the size of a buffer that is allocated at compile time. Which is why it so directly affects SRAM usage.)
I've never tried to make my ender 5 print faster. I tried printing this ringing tower and change all the settings in the slicer like in this video. It didn't work cause it still only printed at the default ender 5 print speed (I guess it's around 40-45mm/s, obviously that didn't cause any ringing). Must be some setting I didn't change that the video didn't mention. (EDIT, Found the problem, was "auto cooling" in filament settings. Recently bought a Bambu X1 Carbon, so I thought I'd speed up my ender 5 a bit so it doesn't seem as pathetically slow in comparison. Hmm, when I change the profile to "normal speed" instead of the one where I increased the speed it actually prints faster (checking the Gcode, the G1 FXXXX number is much higher). I can't find the setting that somehow cripples the speed.
I came here to upgrade my marlin firmware, but I am thinking that this is just so much work everytime that it may be better to just switch to klipper firmware.
Can you use the backlash compensation with the input shaping? I noticed that in the adv file too but not sure if it is needed... Also, should i turn off adaptive step smoothing? my motors are very noisy when I adjust linear advanced values, so i dont know what is causing it. I disabled s curve but not sure what else i need to disable.
Hi, Ender V3 Plus user here I don't suppose you have any advice for a bad input shaping? I've tried on different surfaces and there's ghosting and bumps in the same place. It's either over compensating or not working at all..
Input shaping can get you way more than 30% faster. Print time scales with sqrt of acceleration, but you can easily get 10x the acceleration on all non-outer-perimeter extrusions, for more than triple speed on them.
Works very well. Been using it for a month and have retuned twice. So far so good with a noticeable improvement in print quality vs speed. Used in combination with linear(pressure) advance and classic jerk. Found junction deviation and s-curve a waste of time with loss of quality and bulgy corners.
S-curve gives terrible quality on a bowden. I run my ender 3v2 with a marlin variant, all motion is basic and i have very subtle ringing with 2000 acceleration. Not sure what he is doing wrong, but that ringing looks excessive. Maybe it's the sturdy table. I made the bed way lighter and the whole printer is mounted on a tile that sits on a sheet of PU foam.
@@whoguy4231 Since switching to a new motherboard, I have been creating my own firmware file using sample configuration files. I was very surprised when I turned off the junction deviation and s-curve nonsenses and went back to classic jerk. Linear advance worked perfectly without these two.
must be me ... but your tonal rise can fall repeated patterns ... makes me feel sea sick. I am sure you have good information... but you are just a tonal clone... just be yourself!
i would say maybe. the GH stepper drivers do the calculations themselves, so it offloads any burden from the mainboard. so the slow downs in the menus he showed in this video will not happen with the GH drivers
Hey teaching tech, great video as always! I'm currently following throught it and doing your speed and max flow tuning test, and got up to 480 (i don't know how its even going up there, as there doesn't seem to even be any change in quality from 100 to 480). I did multiples tests, upping the feedrate to +20 per ''floor'', and so did 4 tests so far. My resulting prints don't even look like yours; it's all smooth, no over extrusion or ''fuzzy skin'' like yours show in the video at @5:36 . So i'm wondering if it could be my Marlin firmware limiting me, hence i jumped into the g-code of this. I then modified my M201, M203 and M204 like so : M201 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 M203 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z10.00 E100.00 M204 P4000.00 R1000.00 T2000.00 My printer is an Ender 5 Pro. with SkrTree E3 v3 motherboard, bltouch, and modified hotend with 2 5015 fans blowing on the hotend for part cooling. I was wondering if you (or anyone reading this) would know if there was something limiting my printer in the speed department, hence why all the test looks the same (and are ''too'' perfect compared to yours). Looking forward to an answer! Thank you :)
Love the channel. New to 3D printing so most of this is over my head. I’ve done a fair amount of manual machining and have built PCs but software/code mods are something I’m way behind on!
Input Shaping on IDEX is spotty even on Klipper, I believe there they set the new value for each individual toolhead in the toolhead change macros. Marlin only has X and Y, no current support for an X1 and X2 values, so likely you will have to use the same input shaping X value for both toolheads. It's likely fine as both should be identical, so same moving mass
9 месяцев назад
Hi, Great video for its time since things move so fast. You couldnt point me in the right direction as I cant seem to find any Info On Automatic Resonance tuning for The BTT EBB42 setup..Lost have how to setup the canbus like you did but not anything of the Extra MCU setup for the Accelerometer connection setup. Klipper only has the USB or the Pi connection etc..??? Les
Got a MKS Robin Nano V1.2 whenever I enable input shaping, it gets stuck in a reboot cycle, anybody know why? Haven't been able to enable input shaping at all.
I like your videos, but you should not teach people your coding 'tricks' which are essential bad practice and cumbersome. Use git. That's what it's made for.
If anything, this has taught me that the moving bed NEEDS TO GO on every one of the machines ive got that still uses one. Its always gonna be the limiting factor... I was gonna convert the machine to klipper once i had a working distro set up since i make most of my printers work almost exactly the same but now... I may just convert to gantry at the same time
I tried your test file g-code generator, but it just moved my Ender 3's hot end all the way to the right and extruded filament off the side of the bed.
Okay so.. just trying to wrap my head around this. Do a base line print. Then speed up print speed and acceleration and then do a print. Then mark and measure where quality starts getting worse and input into calculator and then input said values for X & Y?
This video finally lets me wait for the new Rasperry and throw marlin over board 🤣, they implement the important input shaping but the marlin site is totally short and says nearly nothing, no one says how its related to other things like Jerk or how to get the 0,15 gap back if its closed, no one explains the damping factor really, no one says how it really should look like when, or where to choose the righ hight (looks like s*it and ringing is on every hight, exactly like teaching tech tip test i can see that the whole tower has ringin) and my prints look nearly identical on every hight, it just has ringing everywhere exept that the gap closes more and more over hight 🤣, an because i don't want to waste my filament anymore for the 15. Test that say me nothing and no one could really good explain, i throw this marlin stuff finally out the window after always stay behind it and wanted to keep one of my printers marlin
@Teaching Tech tip using VSCode: Open the original Configuration.h and your Configuration.h and then press CTRL + SHIFT + P, select Compare With and choose the desired file. Boom.
I cannot for the life of me see any ringing artifacts in the test print once its done. I have the magnifying glass out there just isnt anything. I dont have a fancy printer, its just and Ender 3 Pro. Im printing the test at 150mm/s and it completes in 38 minutes. Ive done it 3 times with different filaments. Nothing
When saving the new values for input shaping couldn’t you change the default values in the marlin code? That way one does not have to worry about losing the information when installing new firmware versions. When making changes to default values in Marlin, or other code, I normally copy the line, comment out the first instance and change the second. That way I know what the original value was and may quickly revert to it if ever needed by commenting the line with my value and removing the comment in front of the line with the default value.
Is there a way we can hook out printer to the internet and allow a smart Guy like you log in and super tune the Firmware while guiding the user/me on hardware install to support such updates Like Active Resonance Compensation ARC sounds great it says exactly what it going to do. I have had 4 Cars Motor controller tuned this way and several PC tune ups this way can we do it with the 3D Printer?????/ Dennis
It can work even on AVR boards, but it does require a bit of RAM. The RAM is allocated at compile-time so the compiler can tell you if it has run out of RAM, and then you can tune the shaper settings to try to reduce RAM usage.
Hello everyone! This is a nice feature to have. However, when trying to activate it on my COREXY machine, I got this message from the arduino console : #error "INPUT_SHAPING_X is not supported with COREXY, COREYX, COREXZ, COREZX, or MARKFORGED_*." Happens also for INPUT_SHAPING_Y. Is COREXY supported?? must I change the name of the axis , like A and B instead of X and Y?
How does this work for printers with bespoke user interface? For example on an Anycubic Kobra. Are you pretty much stuck hoping the manufacture updates the firmware?
Hello, i was thinking since the BTT B1 TFT35 V3.0 Display Touch Screen is a 32 bit board that controls the printer in touch mode by just sending G & M commands. is there a way to implement input shaping on old 8bit board only by having a 32 bit screen talking to it.
I have a couple of questions. First, will any 32-bit board work? I have the BTT skr 1.4 turbo, it's 32-bit but it is a few years old now. Would this board work or is it too slow for input shaping? Also, I know this is a big ask, but is there any chance of this calibration technique being integrated into your 3d printer calibration site?
With btt skr mini e3 v2 it work like wonders. Since you have 32 bit board, it should work. None of 32 bit boards are slow for marlin😀😀.. Please don't forget to update the marlin version to newest before printing the test model. disable s-curve and junction deviation and use classic jerk while compiling new frimware.
When he said "if your like me you're still running Marling 2.0" I'm just thinking how much of a dinosaur am I still running 1.1.2 ? I think it's long past my upgrade time ! Guess the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" has it limits...
Great video as always thank you! Please please a request for a video on BTT Manta M8P board: connections and setup for Voron2.4? I'm battling, and there is very little info available for this. :-(
Thanks for all that detailed video on input shaping. I even ordered and received the new input shaping drivers. I live in eastern US and couldn't believe it only took 3 days to get them. Haven't tried them yet as I'm still going through the calibration routines for my filaments. I've been riveted to my printer after seeing the latest calibration video.
Marlin's documentation: "It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it." How can we use the accelerometer???
Consider using this feature on coreXY printer, not on printer with moving bed on Y axis. You can have a good coreXY with reasonable price ie Twotree Sapphire And in that way you can achieve realy high speed an high acceleration on both X and Y axis Without uprgading marlin I already can achieve fast print and 3000 acceleration on my Totree Sapphire printer ( the model name is changed to SP-5 now )
FYI if no one has already commented on this. Disable Octolapse! It was causing pausing in my extrusion path. I thought it was an sd card issue but it was just maybe to much for the RPI3 to handle.
Great video as always Michael. I want to bring new life to my 2 Ender 3 Pros and I think a video showing the best options to turn on on Marlin and to tune to get the best result from the printer would be great. I mean, we have input shaping, junction deviation, linear advance, hybrid threshold, s-curve acceleration. It can get confusing on what is actually worth turning on, what works well together and what doesnt.
Using "meld" on Linux or in vs-code can select two files and right click and select compare to get easier ways to compare old and new config, just went through it here two or three times because needed bugfix version for the skr 1.3 but going to follow the vid now if can use input shaping.
I only have matte filament, but I noticed if you shine a flashlight just right along the surface you can see the ringing easily. Unfortunately... it doesn't really seem like this helps much at all for me. The whole surface has nearly the exact same ringing pattern all over it. There does seem to be some marginal differences but it doesn't look good anywhere.
Rather than doing an M503 so you can manually re-add all those settings back after a reset, apply them all in the firmware. You potentially save a TON of time if that data is ever lost!
Remember e.g. on i3 style machines, if you have your spool holder mounted on top of the frame, your resonance frequency (especially y-axis) changes with decreasing mass (weight) on the spool and increasing mass of an ongoing print.
Better to choose a value for y slightly higher than calculated to.compensate for these effects.
After going over this myself and having to troubleshoot many hours, here's 2 important points i wish i heard when i started:
-If you are generating a ringing test that does not induce ringing, check the speed (which you should always do anyways btw), because many slicers have a minimum layer time threshold, which if left on can be overriding your set external perimeter speed and can be quite frustrating to find what is capping it.
-You actually CAN insert the input shaping command in Cura, using the "Insert at Layer Change" Script from the Post Processing Plugin, it makes it so much easier not having to start profiles from the ground up in a new slicer. I wish that could be added to the description of the video so the many Cura users that might want to implement this can skip some headaches as well.
Great video as well.
How to use "Insert at Layer Change" to perform this test? Isn't it fixed (same gcode applied every layer change)?
Great tip on checking minimum layer time. In PrusiaSlicer it can be found in: Filament Settings -> Cooling -> Slow down if layer print time is below:
Thanks a lot i would have spend the same time too without your comment
I literally just downloaded PrusaSlicer for this, installed it, then read this comment. I dont really want to use a new slicer for setup that I dont plan to use everyday. Thank you.
Before looking at input shaping pay attention to frame rigidity and belt tension. If you have a bed slinger a brace for the tower makes a huge difference. For instance I'm resurrecting an early Tenlog D3, a very generic idex bed slinger. Before I started it had terrible ringing even at 50mm/s, 500 acceleration. With tower braces made from two 8mm carbon tubes, the Y axis driver replaced with a TMC2209(more on order for the other axes) and klipper installed I'm getting virtually perfect 35 minute PETG benchies using 100mm/s and 7000 acceleration with a small amount of input shaping. Admittedly I do drop the outer wall speed to 75mm/s, 3000 accel. 7000 accel still leaves a bit of ringing.
Hey Michael , Great vid as always , but @ 10:42 you measure X being 19mm and Y being 16.3mm , However you apply them in reverse @ 11:07 in the Video , Swap them and do a reprint !! :-) ,
Yeah, I noticed that too.
Fun fact: When you tilt your head side to side, your eyes will rotate in their sockets to stay level until they run out of travel room. And you cannot stop them from doing it
Actually, I have a rare gene and have manual control over mine. It's pretty hard to do if both my eyes are open, though. Really easy with one closed.
I have controle over mine if I'm in the shower and focus on the ground. When I tile my head I can sometimes lock them so my vision goes somewhat sideways. I just found out I could do it when I was just swaying in the shower and my vision locked on the ground.
only when i focus on something
I enable input shaping and made the test print at 15-60hz, but I see literally no difference between any of the layers. Does this mean my printer doesnt need it? Should I simply leave it disabled, I did the test print at 150mm speed. It's an ender 5 plus and I have all the corners reinforced with braces.
What is your acceleration? Did you ever get to utilize it, did you turn it off since you saw no noticeable improvements? Been trying it out on mine and getting weird blobbing before or after the seams.
I'm a fellow Aussie that is just getting into 3D printing. Can I just say that your channel has been very useful so far! Thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge!
I print on my ender 3v2 with 2500 acceleration without input shaping and it looks better...
Wow, I flashed new firmware this morning and just now sat down to start calibrating. Perfect timing and thank you.
effectles for me... I don't know... ringing from bottom to top.
Meld merge is a great tool for seeing differences in files, or in whole git repositories.
Winmerge work great also on Windows 😉
I have a Biqu B1 and compiled Marlin 2.1.2 with Input Shapeing and Lin Advance enabled and after calibration I am happy to get 30%-50% more speed in my printings. Best free upgrade
Soo is klipper still necessarily better? Klipper has poor support regarding filament run out thingy related ...in my opinion .
Klipper has much more advanced and accurate input shaping and pressure advance
10:07 my closes up little from the very bottom. What could cause it?
hi, why should you rotate the tower for corexy 90 degrees? sure that it is better like this?
I've been waiting for this video.
I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this video.
@user-ht2kn9jh9s the ⁶7
I've been waiting for you to comment on waiting for this comment about waiting for this video.
The comments tip is so ridiculously simple, but after just customizing my Marlin recently, I wish I had done that!
Thank you for the video and I know these steps make sense for most of the people but I couldn't follow. Can't you show more of the steps with small examples instead of referring to previous videos, because the firmwares, folders and steps are different now. Still, huge fan of your work.
Yea, I doubt someone new to this could follow it.
If using Prusa Slicer then don't fall for the trap of leaving the "default" value in "acceleration control (advanced)" under "Print Settings">"Speed" I couldn't work out why everything was coming out so good.
Great videos! Thank you for the tips. I have 2 questions.
1. Does the input shaping works even when you use a host to print (like octoprint over usb)?
2. Can you transfer the input shape values from Klipper to Marlin on the same printer?
1. Yes it will work with SD card prints or Octoprint.
Input shaping is a live smoothing algorithm. It will work regardless of how the MCU receives its gcode as it applies the counter frequency to the stepper movements.
2. Yes, the value is just of the printer's resonance frequency. How you arrive at that resonance is irrelevant. Provided that your tested and verified values from klipper (or reprap) are using ZV algorithm they should carry over perfectly.
Of note, EI works better in my experience for beg slingers than ZV due to it being able to handle the more frequency changes caused by the moving bed. So if you have Klipper aand are using EI or 2HEI, you will likely notice a decline in quality if you step back to Marlin. ZV is just easier to calculate than any of the other algorithms, which is good for the common Marlin boards on the market and their lower processing power.
@@zacharywelvaert2235 thank you
This sounds like a great upgrade. Is there a way to implement this for idiots? For person who’s eyes glazed over a few minutes in? For those who have dreams about having a final exam but never went to class? For those who click “update” and it just works? Asking for a friend.
It's not that bad. I never went to school and I got it sorted.
@@raymondc9896 I would like more speed but I’m also “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.” That’s because I tend to break things.
Ive added this but I’m getting a fairly big drop in corner sharpness and oval holes has anyone else experienced this?
Wow, I had no idea Marlin supports Input Shaping, spent all night reconfiguring it for my printer, got it working already, now time to calibrate the values :) I'm having so much fun thanks to you
i added it pretty much as soon as the 2.1.2 dropped, and its been a blast, im currently printing at around 250mm/s and 3.5-4k accel, jd of 0.15 and jerk of 20, and it looks amazing, my board is an skr 1.4 and i also have a tft 35 v2.0
Hello, where did you connect the ADXL sensor... do you have a picture for me... THANK YOU... I have the SKR 1.4 turbo
@@majo8526 you don't do it, the calibration is manual for now
I thought you used Junction Deviation OR Jerk. WWhat sort of machine are you running is it a coreXY?
@@Festivejelly I started with JD but went back to jerk, in my application wasn't working very well, it's a normal bed slinger and I have a few speedbenchys runs on my channel
Thank you Michael. At the end it may also be advisable to go back and set the X and Y frequencies in Configuration_adv.h and rebuild (again!). These frequencies bake in the minimum shaping frequencies that Marlin can do without sometimes having to back off the input shaping effect. Alternatively if you have tons of RAM just pick low frequencies at the outset or use SHAPING_MIN_FREQ. (Under the covers this is all affecting the size of a buffer that is allocated at compile time. Which is why it so directly affects SRAM usage.)
4:43 How is the bed wheel bolt moving on it's own?
I've never tried to make my ender 5 print faster. I tried printing this ringing tower and change all the settings in the slicer like in this video. It didn't work cause it still only printed at the default ender 5 print speed (I guess it's around 40-45mm/s, obviously that didn't cause any ringing). Must be some setting I didn't change that the video didn't mention. (EDIT, Found the problem, was "auto cooling" in filament settings.
Recently bought a Bambu X1 Carbon, so I thought I'd speed up my ender 5 a bit so it doesn't seem as pathetically slow in comparison.
Hmm, when I change the profile to "normal speed" instead of the one where I increased the speed it actually prints faster (checking the Gcode, the G1 FXXXX number is much higher). I can't find the setting that somehow cripples the speed.
You just saved me so much headache I was wondering why the printer kept slowing down after the first layer (where the fan is off) thank you!
Where did you get the bird ?..... Chicken? That was really funny!!!
Time: 1:38
What slicer is that? It looks like prusaSlicer but different.
SuperSlicer: ruclips.net/video/LIUB7CbDQD4/видео.html
I came here to upgrade my marlin firmware, but I am thinking that this is just so much work everytime that it may be better to just switch to klipper firmware.
In your video, you put X value in to Y value it seems :S you reversed. or i didn't understand anything ^^
when I pause RUclips to read your title text, like at 1:11 the youtube controls block the text. Otherwise thank you SO MUCH for this video. Cheers!
Simply touch the screen to delete the overlaying text...
@@m30guy I'm using a computer with a mouse and keyboard : (
Can you use the backlash compensation with the input shaping? I noticed that in the adv file too but not sure if it is needed... Also, should i turn off adaptive step smoothing? my motors are very noisy when I adjust linear advanced values, so i dont know what is causing it. I disabled s curve but not sure what else i need to disable.
Hi, Ender V3 Plus user here
I don't suppose you have any advice for a bad input shaping? I've tried on different surfaces and there's ghosting and bumps in the same place. It's either over compensating or not working at all..
Awesome update for Marlin users!
Input shaping can get you way more than 30% faster. Print time scales with sqrt of acceleration, but you can easily get 10x the acceleration on all non-outer-perimeter extrusions, for more than triple speed on them.
IS there a way to translate the input shaping command that goes after layer change to use in Simplify3D?
Incredible video I don't understand a single word of it But it sounds great lol.Ill just wait until input shaping becomes more main stream
Works very well. Been using it for a month and have retuned twice. So far so good with a noticeable improvement in print quality vs speed. Used in combination with linear(pressure) advance and classic jerk. Found junction deviation and s-curve a waste of time with loss of quality and bulgy corners.
S-curve gives terrible quality on a bowden. I run my ender 3v2 with a marlin variant, all motion is basic and i have very subtle ringing with 2000 acceleration. Not sure what he is doing wrong, but that ringing looks excessive. Maybe it's the sturdy table. I made the bed way lighter and the whole printer is mounted on a tile that sits on a sheet of PU foam.
@@dtibor5903 Try running input shaper anyway. You might be surprised!
@@whoguy4231 Since switching to a new motherboard, I have been creating my own firmware file using sample configuration files. I was very surprised when I turned off the junction deviation and s-curve nonsenses and went back to classic jerk. Linear advance worked perfectly without these two.
must be me ... but your tonal rise can fall repeated patterns ... makes me feel sea sick. I am sure you have good information... but you are just a tonal clone... just be yourself!
Can't believe it took me a year to see this video.Will be trying this on my Core XY as its painfully slow.
@Michael/Teaching Tech: Can you tell me, if this makes the GH Enterprise Steppers obsolete? (You made a Video on those approx. 3 Month ago)
i would say maybe. the GH stepper drivers do the calculations themselves, so it offloads any burden from the mainboard. so the slow downs in the menus he showed in this video will not happen with the GH drivers
All the yes Micheal! Thank you for posting this!
Pretty excited, now to spend some more time on my ender... 🤤
Hey teaching tech, great video as always!
I'm currently following throught it and doing your speed and max flow tuning test, and got up to 480 (i don't know how its even going up there, as there doesn't seem to even be any change in quality from 100 to 480). I did multiples tests, upping the feedrate to +20 per ''floor'', and so did 4 tests so far. My resulting prints don't even look like yours; it's all smooth, no over extrusion or ''fuzzy skin'' like yours show in the video at @5:36 . So i'm wondering if it could be my Marlin firmware limiting me, hence i jumped into the g-code of this. I then modified my M201, M203 and M204 like so :
M201 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
M203 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z10.00 E100.00
M204 P4000.00 R1000.00 T2000.00
My printer is an Ender 5 Pro. with SkrTree E3 v3 motherboard, bltouch, and modified hotend with 2 5015 fans blowing on the hotend for part cooling.
I was wondering if you (or anyone reading this) would know if there was something limiting my printer in the speed department, hence why all the test looks the same (and are ''too'' perfect compared to yours).
Looking forward to an answer! Thank you :)
Love the channel. New to 3D printing so most of this is over my head. I’ve done a fair amount of manual machining and have built PCs but software/code mods are something I’m way behind on!
Can input shaping be used on an IDEX printer? If so, what other steps would be required?
Input Shaping on IDEX is spotty even on Klipper, I believe there they set the new value for each individual toolhead in the toolhead change macros.
Marlin only has X and Y, no current support for an X1 and X2 values, so likely you will have to use the same input shaping X value for both toolheads. It's likely fine as both should be identical, so same moving mass
Hi, Great video for its time since things move so fast. You couldnt point me in the right direction as I cant seem to find any Info On Automatic Resonance tuning for The BTT EBB42 setup..Lost have how to setup the canbus like you did but not anything of the Extra MCU setup for the Accelerometer connection setup. Klipper only has the USB or the Pi connection etc..??? Les
Got a MKS Robin Nano V1.2 whenever I enable input shaping, it gets stuck in a reboot cycle, anybody know why? Haven't been able to enable input shaping at all.
CURA should be able to do this with Extension\Post Processing\Modify G Code\Insert at Layer Change
can I update marlin on my FLSUN SUPER RACER to ad input shaper????
I like your videos, but you should not teach people your coding 'tricks' which are essential bad practice and cumbersome. Use git. That's what it's made for.
4:44 is your rith top corne levels itself automatically? :)
That chicken example made me laugh
If anything, this has taught me that the moving bed NEEDS TO GO on every one of the machines ive got that still uses one. Its always gonna be the limiting factor... I was gonna convert the machine to klipper once i had a working distro set up since i make most of my printers work almost exactly the same but now... I may just convert to gantry at the same time
Hello, but there is a prepared version of Marlin with imput shaping already enabled for the Flsun Q5? It would be the Top.
I don't understand why you just aren't measuring the distance over x rings? Like six rings over 10 mm at 100mms?
I tried your test file g-code generator, but it just moved my Ender 3's hot end all the way to the right and extruded filament off the side of the bed.
There are both input shaping AND linear advance settings available for Marlin.
Okay so.. just trying to wrap my head around this. Do a base line print. Then speed up print speed and acceleration and then do a print. Then mark and measure where quality starts getting worse and input into calculator and then input said values for X & Y?
This video finally lets me wait for the new Rasperry and throw marlin over board 🤣, they implement the important input shaping but the marlin site is totally short and says nearly nothing, no one says how its related to other things like Jerk or how to get the 0,15 gap back if its closed, no one explains the damping factor really, no one says how it really should look like when, or where to choose the righ hight (looks like s*it and ringing is on every hight, exactly like teaching tech tip test i can see that the whole tower has ringin) and my prints look nearly identical on every hight, it just has ringing everywhere exept that the gap closes more and more over hight 🤣, an because i don't want to waste my filament anymore for the 15. Test that say me nothing and no one could really good explain, i throw this marlin stuff finally out the window after always stay behind it and wanted to keep one of my printers marlin
@Teaching Tech tip using VSCode: Open the original Configuration.h and your Configuration.h and then press CTRL + SHIFT + P, select Compare With and choose the desired file. Boom.
I cannot for the life of me see any ringing artifacts in the test print once its done. I have the magnifying glass out there just isnt anything. I dont have a fancy printer, its just and Ender 3 Pro. Im printing the test at 150mm/s and it completes in 38 minutes. Ive done it 3 times with different filaments. Nothing
When saving the new values for input shaping couldn’t you change the default values in the marlin code? That way one does not have to worry about losing the information when installing new firmware versions. When making changes to default values in Marlin, or other code, I normally copy the line, comment out the first instance and change the second. That way I know what the original value was and may quickly revert to it if ever needed by commenting the line with my value and removing the comment in front of the line with the default value.
Are you adding lines in the code? Bad idea. What you want to do is add a side comment with the old values.
"If you're like me, still using marlin 2.0..." dude I'm on 1.1.8 🤣
thq
Is there a way we can hook out printer to the internet and allow a smart Guy like you log in and super tune the Firmware while guiding the user/me on hardware install to support such updates Like Active Resonance Compensation ARC sounds great it says exactly what it going to do. I have had 4 Cars Motor controller tuned this way and several PC tune ups this way can we do it with the 3D Printer?????/ Dennis
please do a klipper vs marlin input shaping
This is just one function of Klipper or Is Klipper better than Marlin altogether ?
klipper way better no measuring just use a cheap sensor
That bird analogy was weird. that's not really done to cancel out vibration.
I forgot to change set accelerations to 1000mm, is okey any way?
My prusa slicer option are different. This annoys me soooo bad.
Fantastic! Thanks, Michael!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Input shaping is not working the ringing stays same throughout the print Pls help me
Nice video. Is input shaping from marlin compatible with all printers? and how much ram/flash usage is too much when compiling?
It can work even on AVR boards, but it does require a bit of RAM. The RAM is allocated at compile-time so the compiler can tell you if it has run out of RAM, and then you can tune the shaper settings to try to reduce RAM usage.
Use M593 with no parameters to report the current settings.
Is my eyes playing tricks or does the back right bed leveling knob turn on its own while exp[laining about x and y reversed??????????????? 16.28
Well spotted. I have a wire sticking out that was rotating it back and forth. I discovered and fixed that making this video.
Hello everyone! This is a nice feature to have. However, when trying to activate it on my COREXY machine, I got this message from the arduino console :
#error "INPUT_SHAPING_X is not supported with COREXY, COREYX, COREXZ, COREZX, or MARKFORGED_*."
Happens also for INPUT_SHAPING_Y.
Is COREXY supported?? must I change the name of the axis , like A and B instead of X and Y?
How does this work for printers with bespoke user interface? For example on an Anycubic Kobra. Are you pretty much stuck hoping the manufacture updates the firmware?
Hello, i was thinking since the BTT B1 TFT35 V3.0 Display Touch Screen is a 32 bit board that controls the printer in touch mode by just sending G & M commands. is there a way to implement input shaping on old 8bit board only by having a 32 bit screen talking to it.
Input shaping Must be enabled in firmware. External screen has Nothing to do with it.
I have a couple of questions. First, will any 32-bit board work? I have the BTT skr 1.4 turbo, it's 32-bit but it is a few years old now. Would this board work or is it too slow for input shaping? Also, I know this is a big ask, but is there any chance of this calibration technique being integrated into your 3d printer calibration site?
With btt skr mini e3 v2 it work like wonders. Since you have 32 bit board, it should work. None of 32 bit boards are slow for marlin😀😀.. Please don't forget to update the marlin version to newest before printing the test model. disable s-curve and junction deviation and use classic jerk while compiling new frimware.
When he said "if your like me you're still running Marling 2.0" I'm just thinking how much of a dinosaur am I still running 1.1.2 ?
I think it's long past my upgrade time ! Guess the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" has it limits...
Great video as always thank you! Please please a request for a video on BTT Manta M8P board: connections and setup for Voron2.4? I'm battling, and there is very little info available for this. :-(
Thanks for all that detailed video on input shaping. I even ordered and received the new input shaping drivers. I live in eastern US and couldn't believe it only took 3 days to get them. Haven't tried them yet as I'm still going through the calibration routines for my filaments. I've been riveted to my printer after seeing the latest calibration video.
Marlin's documentation:
"It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it."
How can we use the accelerometer???
I hope no chickens were harmed in the making of this video
How can I install merlin firmware on stock Ender 3v2? Is it just download&build&flash? Or some other magick is required?
What does it say under his finger at 8:55? 50000?
Consider using this feature on coreXY printer, not on printer with moving bed on Y axis.
You can have a good coreXY with reasonable price ie Twotree Sapphire
And in that way you can achieve realy high speed an high acceleration on both X and Y axis
Without uprgading marlin I already can achieve fast print and 3000 acceleration on my Totree Sapphire printer ( the model name is changed to SP-5 now )
FYI if no one has already commented on this. Disable Octolapse! It was causing pausing in my extrusion path. I thought it was an sd card issue but it was just maybe to much for the RPI3 to handle.
Hi, tanks for this video! Does this features works on 8 bits board, due of memory use ? On a CR10S Pro V1 for example..
Great video as always Michael. I want to bring new life to my 2 Ender 3 Pros and I think a video showing the best options to turn on on Marlin and to tune to get the best result from the printer would be great.
I mean, we have input shaping, junction deviation, linear advance, hybrid threshold, s-curve acceleration. It can get confusing on what is actually worth turning on, what works well together and what doesnt.
Anyone knows will this work on an 8-bit board?
My firmware says it's Jyers UI CR/BL touch UI , if I install marlin will it delete my CR/BL touch ?
Using "meld" on Linux or in vs-code can select two files and right click and select compare to get easier ways to compare old and new config, just went through it here two or three times because needed bugfix version for the skr 1.3 but going to follow the vid now if can use input shaping.
I only have matte filament, but I noticed if you shine a flashlight just right along the surface you can see the ringing easily. Unfortunately... it doesn't really seem like this helps much at all for me. The whole surface has nearly the exact same ringing pattern all over it. There does seem to be some marginal differences but it doesn't look good anywhere.
Im using the Software Meld for such comparisons...its really helpful for such kinds of jobs
Marlin is too old school. I like Klipper/Duet ability to adjust the printer Config on the fly without recompiling.
And just after I installed Klipper on 2 printers 😊😉
Goodluck to any beginners wanting to try this.
Rather than doing an M503 so you can manually re-add all those settings back after a reset, apply them all in the firmware. You potentially save a TON of time if that data is ever lost!