Checking over the 357ci SBC making sure all is good.
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- Pulled the intake and valvecovers off the 357sbc for inspection. Look for anything that don't look right. Tighten up all bolts and go back over the valve train. Everything looks good, but my girdles slightly moved down. No worries tho.
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You sure have allot of cool shit laying around that's for sure! 👍
Shit has a way of piling up over the years.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Yeah I hear that!
I pretty much dedicated my life to engines since I was a kid. Made it my occupation. Would have lived pretty good, but the parts suck up all the money. This shits addictive as hell. My dad was a gearhead drag racer, so it rubbed off on me as soon as I could walk. Dad had me cleaning bolts & parts at age 3-4yrs old. Now I'm almost a senior citizen. Was raised around drag cars.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 Sounds like a pretty good life!
I've got a 400sbc that I built in 1993 with a stout solid roller cam. I'm always keep an eye on the valve lash. I've got Jo-Mar stud girdles with 7/16 screw in studs and the poly locks with set screws. I loosened the girdle once to make an adjustment and the poly lock wobbled around because it split in half about a 1/4" down. The girdle held it all together. The heads are a limiting factor when trying to make big power out of a small block. Your stud girdle walked from vibration, harmonics, and flexing of the studs. I've seen it myself. There's a lot of physical forces on the valvetrane, less for a big block, making the same power. The fact that you opened it back up after a break in period speaks volumes on your experience, glad you caught this. You're an old school dude like myself. I appreciate your videos.
Gotta check everything. Can't afford not to. I have Jomars on another engine, I like them much better. Have the bigblock versions too. Building 3 drag race type Rats now.
Thanks for watching man.
LEGENDARY 🏁🏁🏁
1. The 2 sets of rockers deserve clear valve covers. 2. Hopefully the Jo-mar girdles don't move.
3. Sucks the brackets not working out for the F-body. Aftermarket can be frustrating sometimes.
4. I love that luminum Borg Warner GM replacement 4 speed with the synchro trick.
Yeah it sucks those disc brake brackets won't fit. My rearend housing has billet ends welded on, they are GM pattern, but a hell of alot thicker. Id have to grind into the bolt holes to get them on. Then there's the issue of getting the brake caliper centered on the rotor. They attach from the backside, the drums will bolt in from the front side, so shouldn't be no problem there. I do have a stock 69 Chevelle 12-bolt rear tucked away the shit will work on. Flange much thinner and smaller diameter.
That old Borg Warner 4spd has some history. Tough sum bitch. Was planning on sticking it in a 63 SD421 Catalina I have tucked away. Factory drag car. Was also gonna swap it into my 84 C-10. But a 4spd 79 Cutlass would be the shit. $400 bucks would have it in the Cutlass. Cut a hole in the floor and get a boot. Call it good.
A good buddy gave me a TH350 and stall converter out of his 1960 Impala. Not the original drive train. It has Reds in it too. I also got the 400 SBC he had in it. Stock longblock with a cam and manifold. Both have been sitting since early 90's. He's pulling the car apart and going a waaaay different direction.
I don't have a vehicle to put it in so far. Then Id have to pull both apart anyways. If the block mags good, I'd full around and get some ponies out of it. A friend many years ago mentioned building a destroked 400. If that is even a thing people do these days.
Nothing wrong with a 377 destroker. I've always wanted a 59 Bel Air myself. Preferably a wagon. Those cat eye taillights gotta be the coolest ass end ever designed.
Drop that 400 in a G-body or an old C-10 pickup. Vegas and Monzas are also killer choices. Even the early 50s Chevys are cool as hell. My first car was a 53 Chevy. Wish I still had it.
I'm looking for a 50 or 51 Chevy body to build a gasser with. 49 Oldsmobile 88 would work too.
If I was you, I'd just build the 400 as a 406 and use a 5.7 4340 aftermarket rod, & good forged pistons. Stock crank will handle 600+hp. Seen many of them in dirt track applications. Good pair of 220cc+ heads and a .650 lift solid roller, Super Victor intake & 850 Holley, easy 600+HP engine. Built a few. Turned them 7500+rpm. Most went into dirt cars, but a couple ended up in a couple of my street/strip rides.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 I'm building a K10 1968. I built a long block for it already.
Didn't know batman was country
Unfortunately I'm from a big city, but it is in the deep South. I wish I could live in the country, but instead I'm stuck in the suburbs. I did get to live in the country for about 15yrs. Pretty cool environment. Wish I still lived there.
Jewelry thir. Sir. 👍
I spend a lot of time just looking at this shit. I see it as art. I am an artist actually. Grew up drawing, painting, building things, even won numerous contest, did oil paintings years ago and airbrush work. Built thousands of model cars for decades & model railroad. But my eyes ain't what they once were and it's becoming difficult to do shit like that. Also did tattoos for a moment in time. These days my canvas is engine blocks.
Which cam you running in that again? is that the Lunati bootlegger?
Yep, the big one.
About as big as I would want to go with the GM spider & dogbone setup. It's a good Street/Strip cam. 108 lobe separation. Running 1.6s all around for extra bump, plus I had them laying around. It won't run power brakes or no vacuum operated shit. But I use manual everything anyway.
@@thereluctantgearhead4544 rock and roll it sounds mean! Can’t wait to hear that thing come up on the converter
@@colinjohnson7663It should be a pretty good unit. Car it's going in is set up to boogy. Light as hell. Convertor should flash 4500-5000rpm. Going with a 4-56 gear on a spool.
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