Thank you for this video. I installed my new pump myself. The guy at Leslie’s put the fittings on for me trying to be helpful. He did use teflon tape. Anyway. I used silicon around the outside of the fitting like I have before. It leaked a little bit. The fitting was loose. I didn’t check behind the Leslie’s guy. Well my husband told me I did it all wrong. He said if it’s done right you don’t need tape or silicon. Ugh Needless to say he doesn’t know pool plumping. It leaked all over! Imagine that. Waiting to redo it myself your way when he’s not here. Thank you for this video.
I tried this today and it worked perfectly. Even as an unskilled plumber. I cut the tip of the silicon tube too far back and the bead came out thick but I just slathered it on anyways both before and after wrapping the Teflon tape, and wiped the excess off afterwards. Kind of messy on my soft pink accountant's hands but the final result came out great. Thanks! You are a Prince among Pool Plumbers.
Richard, I can't tell you how incredibly helpful I found your video! Not only were you correct about no one really having a good strategy video out there, but I had been having a leak in this exact scenario that was stressing me out for 7 years, God Bless You! I kid you not, I asked about 5 different professional pool personnel (and no offense on them, they've always been great) and no one could ever help me figure it out.
Wonderful! Glad it was helpful. This is the way we still connect our connections to pumps. I have been open to other ideas as I state, but have not found anyone telling me a better idea, they only say use thread lock which I have found will leak.
Richard, THANK YOU. This was very helpful. I’ve followed your instructions a few times now and haven’t had a leak since. By the way, there still is not a video as good as yours out there. Anyone who has had a pool for a number of years, one day realizes that pool plumbing is probably the most frustrating part of pool ownership: drip, drip and drip. When it comes to sealing PVC threaded pipes, there is simply no shortcut to be taken. There is only one way to make a waterproof seal: Teflon AND silicone, as shown in this video. I’ve tried many times to bypass the use of silicone in sealing PVC threaded pipes. I’ve used thick (pink) Teflon with (too) many wraps. I’ve tightened clamps to the point where the fittings/couplings/connectors/adapters reached their breaking point. And I still got a drip!!! Without the use of silicone, I always ended up with a leak, whether right after the job or after several months.
Great fix for threaded pvc pool pump fitting. I tried multi layers of just tape, no more leak thread sealant, nothing was working to stop the leak. This fix stopped the leak. Great video and tip.
I used a white paste pipe dope for abs and pvc, from ACE and white Teflon tape. No leaks. Works like a champ. I applied the pipe dope liberally to the internal female abs threads at the pump body and 4 or 5 wraps of Teflon tape at PVC pipe male thread and tightened it to where the fitting just goes in about as much as it can with almost full thread engagement as the thread is straight at this connection point not tapered like pipe thread. I finished the rest of the plumbing in that line and no leaks.
So I did what you instruct in the video. I also tried to do the step one of the comments instructed to do. None of them worked. I ended up calling Leslie pools and had a repair man fix it. The problem was not the products being used. It was the actual fitting. You have to get one rated high for heat or it will never work. He didn’t let it dry or anything. Just connected and ran the pump. No more leaks. Hope this helps somebody in the future.
I connect to the pumps all the time using the threaded male adapters pictured (schedule 40), you don't have to use a schedule 80 fitting. Nothing wrong with using a schedule 80 fitting, but you don't have to. It sounds like you may have been trying to reuse a fitting that popped out due to being heated from boiling water in the pot (the pump running dry). If that is the case, the male adapter shrinks when heated and it will never fit again into the connection. You must cut it out and use a new fitting.
True Light Pools, LLC no I used 3 fittings. I had to redo the plumbing 3 times because it leaked every time. But it was running hot. The pool guy said it gets hot all the time. That’s why I needed that special pvc.
What the pool person said is abnormal. A normal pump doesn't get "hot all the time". You must have a special situation happening with your pool and pump. Think about it, If the pump is running properly your pump would NOT be continually running hot because fresh water constantly moves through the pump cooling it and the pipes. The way a pump 'runs hot' is when fresh water is NOT being moved through the pump . So the water just sits in the pot with the impeller spinning and the friction heats the existing water and boils the water in the pot causing the pvc to warp. Anyway, I'm glad you are up and running now, take care.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Unless he working on a hot tub/pool but it still should not get hot enough to bother schedule 40 PVC. True Light is right your pump should always be ambient temperature or a few degrees above but never hot.
@@dougt4174 Thanks for the reply. Again I’m not against using schedule 80 fittings, but Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t usually have these stocked in 2” fittings. You usually have to get these from a plumbing store or pool distributor. So using a more accessible schedule 40 fitting will work. Later
Thanks Richard! After a first failed attempt that caused me to go back and re-cut and fit the PVC, I found this video. I followed the instructions to a “T” and end the result was a perfect seal. Thanks for taking the time to show me how to do it properly.
You may find this of interest, I've been working on pools for over 40 years, back in the day the way the threads were cut on multiports, pumps, etc a few rounds of white teflon and you were good to go, no leaks. Fast forward to today and we're using a thicker teflon tape called "blue monster" and putting anywhere from 6 to 9 rounds on our fittings and STILL sometimes they leak. I never tried silicone but we don't have the option of allowing that long of a dry time before checking so we just go with the tape, sometimes I put a very small dot of lube on the tape as well. Unions with o-rings that seal the threaded part to the top of the pump also work, we tape them as well but the o-ring adds yet another sealing point. Every brand seems to cut the threads differently, Hayward, Jandy, Pentair, etc and every year it seem to differ as well. Someone told me the machine that cuts the threads can get dull and cause this.
Sounds good, thanks for the info. I have started using some high temp unions with orings on them that my distributor has in stock, they work well, but I still teflon and silicon them anyway.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 We started using pipe dope made for plastic on top of a few rounds of teflon, seems to be solid and stops leaks. The problem we sometimes encounter is customers blame it on a bad plumbing job when a pump fitting leaks due to it overheating. Oftentimes the basket is totally melted it got so hot inside there and I show them or explain but not everyone understands this.
@@robwasnj Yep, whenever the pump runs dry and the pvc warps, it doesn't matter how the joint was secured it's going to leak and you have to replace the pvc then.
Thanks for this. Just replaced my pump and re-plumbed my entire pad. 2" NPT->2" PVC adapters leaking at both inlet (sucking air) and outlet (dripping). They are taped up and tighter than I'm comfortable with. Luckily I built unions into the lines, so I'll be trying your technique tomorrow.
Good, you will see with using the silicon they will lubricate the joints and you can tighten them up nice and snug, some connections go almost all the way to bottoming out.
Great video. We tried this method into the top of our heyward top mount valve for the sand filter and it indeed worked!!! However the other day the male adapter broke inside of the valve system, causing a pretty large water issue in our pump room. I'm not sure if this had to do with the added silicone, using the method into the valve system or something else, but just wanted to share.
No kill, like ovah kill. Thanks for sharing your technique. Finally have a pump with a discharge leak just like this. Wish Hayward used a oring setup like on the Pentair stuff.
Glad it was helpful! You can use a schedule 40 male adapter like in the video or a schedule 80 threaded pipe end is even better. So places the schedule 80 pipe is hard to come by, like Lowes doesn't sell them in 1.5 and 2". If in doubt whether the pvc has warped from being hot, replace it with a new one and use the teflon tape and silicone like described. Let it dry and then run the pump and it should work.
Looks like an overkill but worth the effort since a leak will mean you have to start all over again. I am in the process of changing mine and will follow your lead.
I just hooked everthing up and I'll test it tomorrow. I had the worst luck with teflon tape and pipe dope, so hopefully this does the trick. Fingers crossed.
Thanks just repiped my well pump today and that threaded make adapter has slight seep. Might try to smear some silicone around the base where it meets the housing as you did. Otherwise I’ll have to cut everything off and start from scratch as I don’t have a union installed.
When you put the teflon tape on is there a space between the first 5 wraps of the tape and the second and consequently the s cond wrap and the third? Wish you had included the entire process in the video. Thanks
Do the silicon on the threads, teflon tape 5 wraps, then continue with another 5 wraps further up threads, then more silicon. That should do it for you.
Argh!!! I didn't put the silicone underneath the teflon tape I only put it on top and now it's leaking again!!!! This is the second time I've fixed this stupid thing. First time I used teflon tape and the ptfe sealant and that didn't work. I will try again doing the silicone underneath and on top and see if that works.
Make sure it's a new fitting that you are using. If it starting leaking as a result of overheating the water in the pump then it will shrink the fitting slightly and no amount of teflon or silicon will seal it. If you can find a schedule 80 grey type male connection use that, they seem to fit a little tighter.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Yep, the pumps runs hot one time it'll ruin the fitting. On our work pumps we used stainless fittings on the top. Not sure why CPVC fittings aren't provided with pumps for the inlet and outlets. CPVC is more resistant to heat than regular PVC 40 or 80.
Hi, great video! Would this be an option to fix air from leaking in through the connection that goes in to the pump. I have tried using only tape and I still get air sucked in and trapped in my sandfilter... //Stefan
That is where I found a leak on mine as well. I have a connection joiner that I believe has an o-ring inside of there. My pool guy is gone, he overloaded my pool with conditioner and billed me for it. I was a good paying customer, but i disputed this bill because I already knew my CYA was high. Instead addressing the issue he just up and quit on me, without saying a word. Then my pool turned green on me right in the middle of a huge project.in my front yard. That cane yo a screeching halt. I contacted him and he said he would fix it at his expense. I ended up spending hundreds on new grids, a new manifold, algeacide and other chemicals. He came to clean the filter several times. He complained my grids were bad. Yet it was the manifold with a notch cut into it and one broken grid. I found other parts that he sabotaged. I found an o-ring about the size of the pump inlet. I tested my equipment myself and found that the pump lost prime on low speeds. It was taking on air. This made me real upset and nervous that he removed the o-ring on purpose to cause the air leak and burn out my pump or warp the plumbing due to heat. I am a single disabled older woman who used to take care of my own pool. So I found the input leak and where the o-ring most likely came from. My pool is still green due to poor circulation. He disappeared again once the o-ring was left in the planter. I just want my gate key back I hope I can give it and that I found it before any real damage. I am afraid to call in a new company because all they do is take advantage and overcharge. I wish I wasn't hurt the way I am now. 😢
@@HRTsAFyre I’m sorry to hear of the story of the poor service from that pool guy. People take advantage of others, I would not let him on my property again. Don’t be afraid to switch just stay out there and watch while they do their work to keep them accountable until you trust that person.
How far are you tightening it. I've read you can over tighten these types of joints. Looking at how little threads are left showing, did you put a lot of torque on the joint?
Depends on what it's going into. I usually tighten as far as I can with my hands, then go about another full turn with pliers. If I don't think it's tight enough I might go a little more.
I've wondered about that... the pipe stik we use in heater connections though says specifically NOT to use on plastic pipe. I'm not sure why, maybe it eats it away, maybe other joint sticks are suitable on plastic. We just use blue teflon now and really tighten the joins, seems to last at least a few years... nothing seems to be forever that's in the sun, shaded systems on the other hand no drips for many years (same with underground taped joints)
Because of the teflon and the silicone you can usually thread it in almost all the way until it bottoms out in the socket. If it's getting pretty tight and you see you won't be bottoming it out in the socket, I get it good and snug with one hand and pair of pipe pliers.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thank you for the response. I did this method on a fitting for my pool pump yesterday and it worked great. Hand tight then one revolution with channel locks.
Ive been chasing suction leaks for 3 weeks and have determined these pvc scrd fitting leak no matter if I use teflon tap, order door or both. I’m trying this next. Argh
Great question, I'm glad you asked! I did that at first, and it doesn't stand up to the extreme heat of 100 degree Texas summers. In the summer the joints that were put together with the pipe dope start to leak because the paste gets real thin, not thick like when it was first put on. I had multiple joints start leaking within 2 months, then I had to cut the pipe, remove the adapter, then redo the joint, reinstall the pipe with a union. So I just had to find another way. Also the water pressure from a pool pump is a lot more than like a gas line. Pipe dope works fine there when I install a heater, but I've had pool pumps start seeping just days after installing with pipe dope in the summer. The teflon tape and silicon way has served me well for the joints to not leak and to date I have not found a better way. Later.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thank you for taking the time to make this video and reply to my question. I used your method and FINALLY a pesky leak I have been fighting is stopped. You are a hero that saved my sanity!
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 In the video it looks like the silicone 2+. Lowe’s has the silicone 2 but it says not recommended for underwater/aquarium use. Not sure about the 2+ but doing some research it seems there is at least one silicone product intended for pool and spa use (Boss 802 Silicone.) It says it’s chlorine resistant and can be used on fittings.
My pump was surging and i couldnt figure out where the air was coming from ,after changing all the o rings at the suction points and the outlets i still couldn't work out wher the air was coming from then after i put it all back together i noticed the weir door on the skimmer box had a small twig stuck in the side restricting the opening and closing causing water to surge ... Problem solved!!!
Darn, I went out to check the work a week later and it's leaking again. I think the water pressure eventually gets through the silicone. I waited 24 hours and used a lot of silicone/teflon tape, but it didn't work. I think Im cursed :(.
Were you using a fresh piece of PVC or redoing one that failed before? Also, you can use a schedule 80 threaded male nipple if you can find them, it's just a threaded male section of pipe 12" long usually and it is threaded on both ends. You cut it in half and use the end to thread into pump. They tend to work better than the male adaptor. Don't know why it would leak on you.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 It was the PVC piece that failed before. Its not a bad leak, so I put some more silicone on top and letting dry for a few days. I'll test it out today. If that doesnt work, I'll either get a new piece or look for a SCH80 piece. Thanks for the tip.
It is not permanent like gluing it with cement glue. You can remove it and redo the connection. If you are considering re-doing the connection each season, I would suggest putting a union above your connection so you can just undo the union, then undo your fitting and redo the silicon and thread tape, then reinstall.
Haven't used them so I don't know how they would do. Let me know if you have used them and if your environment in the summer gets up to 100 degrees and over.
Does this work on 2” male pvc going into female copper? I need to put an SWG in between after the heater before return line which is all copper at the moment.
Probably the pipe/fitting is warped and allowing water to escape, replace the fitting. Use a piece of threaded schedule 80 or threaded CPVC pipe if you have access to that. If that does not work, then probably the housing is warped and that's why new fittings won't fit right in the housing.
Why are you not using high temp union male adaptors on a pump. If just a male adaptor use Sch80 CPVC Spears brand rated to 210 degrees. The Sch40 PVC is only 140 degrees. You are just making your job harder than you need.
I agree that using a schedule 80 is preferred. But schedule 80 in 1.5" or 2 " are not readily available in Lowes or Home Depot here. I have to get them from a pool distributor or make a special trip to a plumbing supply warehouse. I actually use high temp unions now to connect to the pump that I get from a pool distributor.
I have used cement in rare situations when you will not ever take something off, you would have to cut it out or replace the part the pipe is going into. Generally, the pvc glue does not help it bind to the resin on pumps like binding pvc to pvc. The pump housing is made of a resin that don't soften like pvc does, so that's why I use teflon tape with silicon. Also as you said it's more removable if you have to redo the joint. I have used pvc cement on the threads of a chlorine tablet tower before that was leaking to seal it and help it stay fixed and not turn any more. Thanks for the question!
23 year service tech/owner here. I would never use these fittings. Grey CPVC temp resistant threaded nipple cut in half for suction and return with pipe dope. Impossible to leak. It's an industry standard. Any time encountering a female thread use a nipple. The force needed to make the seal would just break a MIPxSlip fitting.
Thank you for your thoughts but you are just flat out incorrect by saying these type connections "would just break". I agree with you that using the grey CPVC threaded nipple is better and that is what we usually do. But for some reason they are in and out of stock here in our area so I have used these other type threaded male adapters with no issues.
So on the male threaded ends..I imagine it's on both sides (to filter let's say and to wherever else let's say the pump output)- what's on the other side? Threaded or since your cutting in half is there a slip involved if not full thread? And on that other end using pvc or a union, to pvc.
@timtaylor3497 With the Gray nipple cut in half thread, one end into the input of the pump and the other, then into the output of the pump, then use slip couplings. Rule of thumb. Any device that requires threaded fittings. Use Gray colored CPvC nipples. nothing else.
@@timtaylor3497 That's weird. Did this for 20+ years but retired around 2005. They are available on Amazon. About 20 bucks. The point here is that those threads need to be tighter than most would imagine. Use pipe dope. Not tape.
Be generous with the silicon. When using with the teflon tape, it's a winning combination. Just let silicon dry for a couple of hours or overnight is even better.
Thank you for the comment. I read the article and it basically says use a thread sealant. I believe that is what the silicon is doing, it is sealing the parts of the threads where the teflon is not. When I have used just the sealant before, in the extreme summer temps of Texas, I have experienced water leaks after a few months because the heat seemed to "thin" the sealant in a way, as I mention in the video. Maybe it was just that particular sealant's issue. There is also good info in the article about not overtightening PVC, so thanks again.
Thank you for this video. I installed my new pump myself. The guy at Leslie’s put the fittings on for me trying to be helpful. He did use teflon tape.
Anyway. I used silicon around the outside of the fitting like I have before. It leaked a little bit. The fitting was loose. I didn’t check behind the Leslie’s guy.
Well my husband told me I did it all wrong. He said if it’s done right you don’t need tape or silicon. Ugh Needless to say he doesn’t know pool plumping. It leaked all over! Imagine that. Waiting to redo it myself your way when he’s not here. Thank you for this video.
Sure thing!
I tried this today and it worked perfectly. Even as an unskilled plumber. I cut the tip of the silicon tube too far back and the bead came out thick but I just slathered it on anyways both before and after wrapping the Teflon tape, and wiped the excess off afterwards. Kind of messy on my soft pink accountant's hands but the final result came out great. Thanks! You are a Prince among Pool Plumbers.
Your comments brought a smile to my face! Way to go fixing what you needed to fix!
Richard, I can't tell you how incredibly helpful I found your video! Not only were you correct about no one really having a good strategy video out there, but I had been having a leak in this exact scenario that was stressing me out for 7 years, God Bless You! I kid you not, I asked about 5 different professional pool personnel (and no offense on them, they've always been great) and no one could ever help me figure it out.
Wonderful! Glad it was helpful. This is the way we still connect our connections to pumps. I have been open to other ideas as I state, but have not found anyone telling me a better idea, they only say use thread lock which I have found will leak.
Richard, THANK YOU.
This was very helpful. I’ve followed your instructions a few times now and haven’t had a leak since. By the way, there still is not a video as good as yours out there.
Anyone who has had a pool for a number of years, one day realizes that pool plumbing is probably the most frustrating part of pool ownership: drip, drip and drip. When it comes to sealing PVC threaded pipes, there is simply no shortcut to be taken. There is only one way to make a waterproof seal: Teflon AND silicone, as shown in this video.
I’ve tried many times to bypass the use of silicone in sealing PVC threaded pipes. I’ve used thick (pink) Teflon with (too) many wraps. I’ve tightened clamps to the point where the fittings/couplings/connectors/adapters reached their breaking point. And I still got a drip!!!
Without the use of silicone, I always ended up with a leak, whether right after the job or after several months.
Thanks so much for your comment and feedback! It works for me and glad to hear it works for others too!
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Curious if this method allows you to remove the fitting in the future if needed? Thanks for the video and I love the idea!!!!
@@danny302 Yes you can remove it, it is not glued in.
This is by far the best video on RUclips on how to do this. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Great fix for threaded pvc pool pump fitting. I tried multi layers of just tape, no more leak thread sealant, nothing was working to stop the leak. This fix stopped the leak. Great video and tip.
Wonderful! That's what we still use and it keeps on working Thanks for the feedback!
I used a white paste pipe dope for abs and pvc, from ACE and white Teflon tape. No leaks. Works like a champ.
I applied the pipe dope liberally to the internal female abs threads at the pump body and 4 or 5 wraps of Teflon tape at PVC pipe male thread and tightened it to where the fitting just goes in about as much as it can with almost full thread engagement as the thread is straight at this connection point not tapered like pipe thread.
I finished the rest of the plumbing in that line and no leaks.
Cool, I hope it stays that way.
Struggled with this issue on an older pump. Your solution sealed it up good, thanks!
Awesome!!!! Way to go!
Thank you! I followed this last year and had no leaks I’m not a plumber! Replacing pump just come back again to refresh how it’s done!
You go!
So I did what you instruct in the video. I also tried to do the step one of the comments instructed to do. None of them worked. I ended up calling Leslie pools and had a repair man fix it. The problem was not the products being used. It was the actual fitting. You have to get one rated high for heat or it will never work. He didn’t let it dry or anything. Just connected and ran the pump. No more leaks. Hope this helps somebody in the future.
I connect to the pumps all the time using the threaded male adapters pictured (schedule 40), you don't have to use a schedule 80 fitting. Nothing wrong with using a schedule 80 fitting, but you don't have to. It sounds like you may have been trying to reuse a fitting that popped out due to being heated from boiling water in the pot (the pump running dry). If that is the case, the male adapter shrinks when heated and it will never fit again into the connection. You must cut it out and use a new fitting.
True Light Pools, LLC no I used 3 fittings. I had to redo the plumbing 3 times because it leaked every time. But it was running hot. The pool guy said it gets hot all the time. That’s why I needed that special pvc.
What the pool person said is abnormal. A normal pump doesn't get "hot all the time". You must have a special situation happening with your pool and pump. Think about it, If the pump is running properly your pump would NOT be continually running hot because fresh water constantly moves through the pump cooling it and the pipes. The way a pump 'runs hot' is when fresh water is NOT being moved through the pump . So the water just sits in the pot with the impeller spinning and the friction heats the existing water and boils the water in the pot causing the pvc to warp. Anyway, I'm glad you are up and running now, take care.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Unless he working on a hot tub/pool but it still should not get hot enough to bother schedule 40 PVC. True Light is right your pump should always be ambient temperature or a few degrees above but never hot.
@@dougt4174 Thanks for the reply. Again I’m not against using schedule 80 fittings, but Lowe’s and Home Depot don’t usually have these stocked in 2” fittings. You usually have to get these from a plumbing store or pool distributor. So using a more accessible schedule 40 fitting will work. Later
thanks. I think this is the number 1 spot on our pool system that leaks, I will try this.
Glad to help
Thanks Richard! After a first failed attempt that caused me to go back and re-cut and fit the PVC, I found this video. I followed the instructions to a “T” and end the result was a perfect seal. Thanks for taking the time to show me how to do it properly.
You bet, good job!!!
You may find this of interest, I've been working on pools for over 40 years, back in the day the way the threads were cut on multiports, pumps, etc a few rounds of white teflon and you were good to go, no leaks. Fast forward to today and we're using a thicker teflon tape called "blue monster" and putting anywhere from 6 to 9 rounds on our fittings and STILL sometimes they leak. I never tried silicone but we don't have the option of allowing that long of a dry time before checking so we just go with the tape, sometimes I put a very small dot of lube on the tape as well. Unions with o-rings that seal the threaded part to the top of the pump also work, we tape them as well but the o-ring adds yet another sealing point. Every brand seems to cut the threads differently, Hayward, Jandy, Pentair, etc and every year it seem to differ as well. Someone told me the machine that cuts the threads can get dull and cause this.
Sounds good, thanks for the info. I have started using some high temp unions with orings on them that my distributor has in stock, they work well, but I still teflon and silicon them anyway.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 We started using pipe dope made for plastic on top of a few rounds of teflon, seems to be solid and stops leaks. The problem we sometimes encounter is customers blame it on a bad plumbing job when a pump fitting leaks due to it overheating. Oftentimes the basket is totally melted it got so hot inside there and I show them or explain but not everyone understands this.
@@robwasnj Yep, whenever the pump runs dry and the pvc warps, it doesn't matter how the joint was secured it's going to leak and you have to replace the pvc then.
Thanks for this. Just replaced my pump and re-plumbed my entire pad. 2" NPT->2" PVC adapters leaking at both inlet (sucking air) and outlet (dripping). They are taped up and tighter than I'm comfortable with. Luckily I built unions into the lines, so I'll be trying your technique tomorrow.
Good, you will see with using the silicon they will lubricate the joints and you can tighten them up nice and snug, some connections go almost all the way to bottoming out.
Great video. We tried this method into the top of our heyward top mount valve for the sand filter and it indeed worked!!!
However the other day the male adapter broke inside of the valve system, causing a pretty large water issue in our pump room.
I'm not sure if this had to do with the added silicone, using the method into the valve system or something else, but just wanted to share.
I haven't had any issues with adding the silicone, probably the fitting was overtightened, I have done that before and had an issue with the fitting.
No kill, like ovah kill. Thanks for sharing your technique. Finally have a pump with a discharge leak just like this. Wish Hayward used a oring setup like on the Pentair stuff.
Cool
Thank you very much. This video was very helpful and reassuring too.
Great!
Thank you so much for your explaining how what, how and why you are doing to fix the leak : D
I really appreciate the professional way you did this.
Sure thing! Glad to help!
I have been fighting this issue all spring and summer gonna give it a try TY for the post
Glad it was helpful! You can use a schedule 40 male adapter like in the video or a schedule 80 threaded pipe end is even better. So places the schedule 80 pipe is hard to come by, like Lowes doesn't sell them in 1.5 and 2". If in doubt whether the pvc has warped from being hot, replace it with a new one and use the teflon tape and silicone like described. Let it dry and then run the pump and it should work.
Looks like an overkill but worth the effort since a leak will mean you have to start all over again. I am in the process of changing mine and will follow your lead.
Sounds good.
I just hooked everthing up and I'll test it tomorrow. I had the worst luck with teflon tape and pipe dope, so hopefully this does the trick. Fingers crossed.
Great! Let me know.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Rich, Yes, it worked. Thank you so much.
This helped me - was getting frustrated by stupid leak. Seems common place.
Glad it helped!
Thanks just repiped my well pump today and that threaded make adapter has slight seep. Might try to smear some silicone around the base where it meets the housing as you did. Otherwise I’ll have to cut everything off and start from scratch as I don’t have a union installed.
Using a union is an easy way to not have to re-plumb everything.
Good info, nice video, wish me luck on a good drip free seal!
Thanks! Yep, I've made many, so seal away!
After three attempts the fixing this same leak I found your video. So just tried this method. Will test it in two hours so more to come.
Update! This worked! Thank you sir!
Glad it helped
Good
Thanks for sharing..was helpful.
My pleasure 😊
Thank you! I had a leak in my out from the pump to the filter & this worked.
Excellent!
When you put the teflon tape on is there a space between the first 5 wraps of the tape and the second and consequently the s cond wrap and the third? Wish you had included the entire process in the video. Thanks
Do the silicon on the threads, teflon tape 5 wraps, then continue with another 5 wraps further up threads, then more silicon. That should do it for you.
Thank You good job
Welcome 👍
Argh!!! I didn't put the silicone underneath the teflon tape I only put it on top and now it's leaking again!!!! This is the second time I've fixed this stupid thing. First time I used teflon tape and the ptfe sealant and that didn't work. I will try again doing the silicone underneath and on top and see if that works.
Make sure it's a new fitting that you are using. If it starting leaking as a result of overheating the water in the pump then it will shrink the fitting slightly and no amount of teflon or silicon will seal it. If you can find a schedule 80 grey type male connection use that, they seem to fit a little tighter.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Yep, the pumps runs hot one time it'll ruin the fitting. On our work pumps we used stainless fittings on the top. Not sure why CPVC fittings aren't provided with pumps for the inlet and outlets. CPVC is more resistant to heat than regular PVC 40 or 80.
@@robwasnj Yep I agree with your comment.
I will try this, just spent 2 hours trying to get fittings leak proof, always ended up with small drip.... will post results in a couple of days....
I will await your findings. Be generous with the silicone and let it cure before putting pressure on it.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 No drips after using your fix, thank you!!!!
@@dogsarefun2 OUTSTANDING!!!! Way to go!
Hi, great video! Would this be an option to fix air from leaking in through the connection that goes in to the pump. I have tried using only tape and I still get air sucked in and trapped in my sandfilter... //Stefan
Yes, into the front of the pump and out the top of the pump.
That is where I found a leak on mine as well. I have a connection joiner that I believe has an o-ring inside of there. My pool guy is gone, he overloaded my pool with conditioner and billed me for it. I was a good paying customer, but i disputed this bill because I already knew my CYA was high. Instead addressing the issue he just up and quit on me, without saying a word. Then my pool turned green on me right in the middle of a huge project.in my front yard. That cane yo a screeching halt. I contacted him and he said he would fix it at his expense. I ended up spending hundreds on new grids, a new manifold, algeacide and other chemicals. He came to clean the filter several times. He complained my grids were bad. Yet it was the manifold with a notch cut into it and one broken grid. I found other parts that he sabotaged. I found an o-ring about the size of the pump inlet. I tested my equipment myself and found that the pump lost prime on low speeds. It was taking on air. This made me real upset and nervous that he removed the o-ring on purpose to cause the air leak and burn out my pump or warp the plumbing due to heat.
I am a single disabled older woman who used to take care of my own pool. So I found the input leak and where the o-ring most likely came from. My pool is still green due to poor circulation. He disappeared again once the o-ring was left in the planter. I just want my gate key back I hope I can give it and that I found it before any real damage. I am afraid to call in a new company because all they do is take advantage and overcharge. I wish I wasn't hurt the way I am now. 😢
@@HRTsAFyre I’m sorry to hear of the story of the poor service from that pool guy. People take advantage of others, I would not let him on my property again. Don’t be afraid to switch just stay out there and watch while they do their work to keep them accountable until you trust that person.
Do you have any videos of this being done?
I describe what to do.
How far are you tightening it. I've read you can over tighten these types of joints. Looking at how little threads are left showing, did you put a lot of torque on the joint?
Depends on what it's going into. I usually tighten as far as I can with my hands, then go about another full turn with pliers. If I don't think it's tight enough I might go a little more.
I use pipe joint stick and silicone
Thank you sir!
True Light Pools, LLC this doesn’t work. Your way works.
I've wondered about that... the pipe stik we use in heater connections though says specifically NOT to use on plastic pipe. I'm not sure why, maybe it eats it away, maybe other joint sticks are suitable on plastic. We just use blue teflon now and really tighten the joins, seems to last at least a few years... nothing seems to be forever that's in the sun, shaded systems on the other hand no drips for many years (same with underground taped joints)
Silicon is not the same as silicone. What you are using in the video is siliCONE, as in "ice cream cone."
Nice.
do you know anyone near Sulphur, LA that works on pools?
Nope, sorry.
Great video. So how much do you tighten? Finger tight plus one turn with wrench or no wrench but hand strength turn? Thank you.
Because of the teflon and the silicone you can usually thread it in almost all the way until it bottoms out in the socket. If it's getting pretty tight and you see you won't be bottoming it out in the socket, I get it good and snug with one hand and pair of pipe pliers.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thank you for the response. I did this method on a fitting for my pool pump yesterday and it worked great. Hand tight then one revolution with channel locks.
@@lowcarbbully Nice!!!
Ive been chasing suction leaks for 3 weeks and have determined these pvc scrd fitting leak no matter if I use teflon tap, order door or both. I’m trying this next. Argh
OK
Teflon tape and silicone fixes the problems. Thx much. Crap tolerances on PVC
@@dougpoteet3846 Glad that is working for you.
Excellent and very informative video.
What would you recommend to use on a pvc male adaptor to female fitting?
Thank you
That's what the video is about, so I'm not sure why you would ask that if you watched the video.
I have to ask, why not use pipe dope paste?
Great question, I'm glad you asked! I did that at first, and it doesn't stand up to the extreme heat of 100 degree Texas summers. In the summer the joints that were put together with the pipe dope start to leak because the paste gets real thin, not thick like when it was first put on. I had multiple joints start leaking within 2 months, then I had to cut the pipe, remove the adapter, then redo the joint, reinstall the pipe with a union. So I just had to find another way. Also the water pressure from a pool pump is a lot more than like a gas line. Pipe dope works fine there when I install a heater, but I've had pool pumps start seeping just days after installing with pipe dope in the summer. The teflon tape and silicon way has served me well for the joints to not leak and to date I have not found a better way. Later.
Are you putting teflon tape between the rows of silicone or is the teflon tape going over the first rows of silicone?
Silicone, Teflon tape, then silicone.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 Thank you for taking the time to make this video and reply to my question. I used your method and FINALLY a pesky leak I have been fighting is stopped. You are a hero that saved my sanity!
@@jeff427427427 NICE!!!!!!!!!!! Glad it worked for you!!!!!!
thank you very much but I'm confused as there are many types of silicone sealants out in the market. which type is best?
I get the clear GE Silicone II in the small tube from Lowes. I'm sure you can find this sold at other places also.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 In the video it looks like the silicone 2+. Lowe’s has the silicone 2 but it says not recommended for underwater/aquarium use. Not sure about the 2+ but doing some research it seems there is at least one silicone product intended for pool and spa use (Boss 802 Silicone.) It says it’s chlorine resistant and can be used on fittings.
My pump was surging and i couldnt figure out where the air was coming from ,after changing all the o rings at the suction points and the outlets i still couldn't work out wher the air was coming from then after i put it all back together i noticed the weir door on the skimmer box had a small twig stuck in the side restricting the opening and closing causing water to surge ... Problem solved!!!
Ha! Yep, I've had that happen before, rare but it does happen.
Darn, I went out to check the work a week later and it's leaking again. I think the water pressure eventually gets through the silicone. I waited 24 hours and used a lot of silicone/teflon tape, but it didn't work. I think Im cursed :(.
Were you using a fresh piece of PVC or redoing one that failed before? Also, you can use a schedule 80 threaded male nipple if you can find them, it's just a threaded male section of pipe 12" long usually and it is threaded on both ends. You cut it in half and use the end to thread into pump. They tend to work better than the male adaptor. Don't know why it would leak on you.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 It was the PVC piece that failed before. Its not a bad leak, so I put some more silicone on top and letting dry for a few days. I'll test it out today. If that doesnt work, I'll either get a new piece or look for a SCH80 piece. Thanks for the tip.
@@TheLoanWolfPodcast Sure, I usually let dry for 24 hours and that's long enough with the silicone nowadays.
Once I do this, is this a permament fitting? or can I take out the connctor at the end of the season and redue it the following year.
It is not permanent like gluing it with cement glue. You can remove it and redo the connection. If you are considering re-doing the connection each season, I would suggest putting a union above your connection so you can just undo the union, then undo your fitting and redo the silicon and thread tape, then reinstall.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441
On the male side of the connection I attach a hose. do I do the same thing using the silicon and thread tape?
@@timroot6877 Where ever you have a male threaded connection you can use the tape and silicon method.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441
Thank you for all your information I'll let you know how it works when I open my pool for the season.
What about a product like Rectorseal or permatex instead of silicone?
Haven't used them so I don't know how they would do. Let me know if you have used them and if your environment in the summer gets up to 100 degrees and over.
I have a cast iron pump housing to a sprinkler that keeps giving me hell.. lets see if this works..
Ok, let me know.
question can this be taken off afterwards for replacement, maintenance?
Yes it can be removed. It's not using pvc glue which would be more permanent.
I have a filter drain plug that has a small leak, would this be a good fix for that also
Yep.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441I did it yesterday and it’s bone dry. Thanks man
@@Jordanwoodworking Nice!!!!
Does this work on 2” male pvc going into female copper? I need to put an SWG in between after the heater before return line which is all copper at the moment.
That is odd that your return side is all copper, but yes this should work.
What do you recommend if you still have a small "pin" size leak at the pipe thread for the "out" from the pump to the filter after using this process?
Probably the pipe/fitting is warped and allowing water to escape, replace the fitting. Use a piece of threaded schedule 80 or threaded CPVC pipe if you have access to that. If that does not work, then probably the housing is warped and that's why new fittings won't fit right in the housing.
What should I do if the pump fitting is possibly warped?
What do you do if you ever want to get the pipe off?
Just cut and unscrew it, it's not glue.
Is the pipe now permanently attached ?
No, it can be removed. It's not glued.
That parts at Home Depot for $1.81
Cool
Silicon and silicone are different things. You are using silicone.
Good.
You are saying silicahn, rhymes with dawn. You should be saying silicone, rhymes with bone. Silicon rhymes with bun.
@@TheLarryBrown Good to know.
It was killing me too!🤯
Why are you not using high temp union male adaptors on a pump. If just a male adaptor use Sch80 CPVC Spears brand rated to 210 degrees. The Sch40 PVC is only 140 degrees. You are just making your job harder than you need.
I agree that using a schedule 80 is preferred. But schedule 80 in 1.5" or 2 " are not readily available in Lowes or Home Depot here. I have to get them from a pool distributor or make a special trip to a plumbing supply warehouse. I actually use high temp unions now to connect to the pump that I get from a pool distributor.
Have you ever used PVC cement on the threads? Or do you use the silicone because it’s more “removable” than the cement?
I have used cement in rare situations when you will not ever take something off, you would have to cut it out or replace the part the pipe is going into. Generally, the pvc glue does not help it bind to the resin on pumps like binding pvc to pvc. The pump housing is made of a resin that don't soften like pvc does, so that's why I use teflon tape with silicon. Also as you said it's more removable if you have to redo the joint. I have used pvc cement on the threads of a chlorine tablet tower before that was leaking to seal it and help it stay fixed and not turn any more. Thanks for the question!
23 year service tech/owner here. I would never use these fittings. Grey CPVC temp resistant threaded nipple cut in half for suction and return with pipe dope. Impossible to leak. It's an industry standard. Any time encountering a female thread use a nipple. The force needed to make the seal would just break a MIPxSlip fitting.
Thank you for your thoughts but you are just flat out incorrect by saying these type connections "would just break". I agree with you that using the grey CPVC threaded nipple is better and that is what we usually do. But for some reason they are in and out of stock here in our area so I have used these other type threaded male adapters with no issues.
So on the male threaded ends..I imagine it's on both sides (to filter let's say and to wherever else let's say the pump output)- what's on the other side? Threaded or since your cutting in half is there a slip involved if not full thread? And on that other end using pvc or a union, to pvc.
@timtaylor3497 With the Gray nipple cut in half thread, one end into the input of the pump and the other, then into the output of the pump, then use slip couplings. Rule of thumb. Any device that requires threaded fittings. Use Gray colored CPvC nipples. nothing else.
@@pgnandt went to 3 places today. No one around here in upstate sc has ever seen threaded grey cvpc when I showed them the above. I tried.
@@timtaylor3497 That's weird. Did this for 20+ years but retired around 2005. They are available on Amazon. About 20 bucks. The point here is that those threads need to be tighter than most would imagine. Use pipe dope. Not tape.
I think I used a lot. I'll see tomorrow.
Be generous with the silicon. When using with the teflon tape, it's a winning combination. Just let silicon dry for a couple of hours or overnight is even better.
@@truelightpoolsllc4441 well, it worked.
@@Gilbertory Excellent!
@@Gilbertory Excellent!
@@Gilbertory Great!
Silicone is a terrible product for anything! It degrades over time. Teflon and a gasket sealer
Anything degrades over time.
Use a thread sealant not Teflon tape:
www.linkedin.com/pulse/what-thread-sealant-use-pvc-fittings-larry-workman
Thank you for the comment. I read the article and it basically says use a thread sealant. I believe that is what the silicon is doing, it is sealing the parts of the threads where the teflon is not. When I have used just the sealant before, in the extreme summer temps of Texas, I have experienced water leaks after a few months because the heat seemed to "thin" the sealant in a way, as I mention in the video. Maybe it was just that particular sealant's issue. There is also good info in the article about not overtightening PVC, so thanks again.