How To Flatten/Surface CNC Projects and Slabs BEFORE Carving, CNC Router Surfacing
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- This video tutorial explains how to flatten, or surface, your CNC router projects before you start carving, and how to set them up properly in your design software using your surfacing bits. In this video, we will be surfacing a slab with a surfacing bit.
The process described in this video can be used in all CNC router design software, including Vectric Vcarve, Fusion 360, Carbide Create and Carveco. We will be using a pocket toolpath to flatten the CNC project.
If you are wondering what CA glue is, this video explains what it is and how to use it with your CNC router projects.
You will learn how to set the project up on your CNC router so the entire project is surfaced and ready for a good finished CNC project. We also discuss the proper use of surfacing bits, a bit about feeds and speeds when surfacing your CNC router projects and the types of surfacing bits to use.
If you want to learn how to make a spoilboard for your CNC router, watch this video
• How To Make Spoilboard...
ITEMS DISCUSSED IN THIS VIDEO (LINKS)
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IDC Woodcraft Surfacing Bits (Ultra-Smooth Cutting Series)
1.5" (1/4 shank) → bit.ly/3HxUTTn
1" (1/4 shank) → bit.ly/3nuVYnZ
3/4" (1/8 shank) → bit.ly/44jsUAJ
Complete CNC router bit starter set → bit.ly/3HzdC0X
1" Bowl Bit → bit.ly/44lJdg9
150 deg V-bit (good for pizza peel taper) → bit.ly/3APbdv7
Logitech mouse for your computer (recommended) → amzn.to/3oYqTJL
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FREE Router Bit Database Downloads from IDC Woodcraft
idcwoodcraft.com/pages/databa...
(For Vectric, Fusion 360, Carveco, Carbide Create)
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FREE CNC Router Bit App For Your Phone (feeds, speeds and more)
Apple → apple.co/3Vu7XyT
Android → bit.ly/40ZMoaz
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Videos Mentioned To Watch
How To Make A Pizza Peel (you get the file FREE) → • How to Make a Pizza Pe...
Longmill MK2 CNC Router Review video → • Expert Insights: Revie...
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Longmill MK2 CNC Router
Review video → • Expert Insights: Revie...
Website → sienci.com/product/longmill-m...
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CA Glue Hold-down Products
Starbond Website (use code IDCWOODCRAFT for 10% off → bit.ly/3g81RRU
→ You need clear thin CA glue and the accelerator spray
Painters tape (Amazon) → amzn.to/3AN6vy0
Plastic Scraper Set(Amazon) → amzn.to/41YNRPL
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#cnc #cncrouters #cncforbeginners #vcarvetutorials #vectric
Phantom CNC Systems → www.phantomcncsystems.com/
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OTHER ‘MUST HAVES’ FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ Calipers: link.idcwoodcraft.com/0zaqo3
→ Hearing protection (plugs don't work): amzn.to/2Hs1RgW
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Recommended Design Software
→ Vcarve Pro (RECOMMENDED)→ bit.ly/3d4WrEU
→ Vcarve Desktop → bit.ly/3D4CwjH
→ Vectric Aspire → shrsl.com/37pw9
→ Cut2D Desktop → shrsl.com/36xfm
→ Carveco (budget) → bit.ly/37rhVbY
_____________________________
MAKING MONEY WITH A CNC
Words are the top-selling items of all time with CNC products. Get the free WORDS THAT SELL list: idcwoodcraft.com/cnc-lp-1/
Join CNC ENTREPRENEURS Facebook group: / cncentrepreneurs
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CNC FREE STUFF AND MORE
CNC Insiders sign up (free files and more): idcwoodcraft.com/cnc-lp2-free...
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NEW TO CNC OR STUCK IN A PROJECT?
Schedule one-on-one time with me: idcwoodcraft.com/for-beginners/
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If you currently own a CNC router, please take a moment to take this survey to share your experience with it: bit.ly/3r5XzNh
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Please support IDC Woodcraft RUclips channel:
Buy me a cup of coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/garrettf...
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Cool vector files for CNC router & CNC laser: etsy.me/3oxX79l
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CNC FOR BEGINNERS PODCAST: anchor.fm/cnc-for-beginners
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Garrett Fromme
Facebook: IDCWoodcraft
Website: www.idcwoodcraft.com
Email: support@idcwoodcraft.com 
Развлечения
Garrett, you should have been a school teacher. You are the kind of teacher that is needed in our schools today. I can't overemphasize how much your method helps. Teaching all the way from beginning to end, not leaving about half for us to figure out on our own through trial and error.
Jim, thank you my friend. Glad you enjoyed this one.
He should have been a salesman.... Oh wait he is!
Finally someone understands changing bits the way I was taught in machine shops (and do to this day). I cringe when people don't take the time to disassemble and clean the heck out of everything.
Sylvian, very true brother! Always clean everything!
For sure
Garrett … been doing a lot of studying and seriously evaluating starting a CNC business. You are simply the best CNC teacher on RUclips and I just wanted to say thanks.
I am not trying to make a fortune with whatever machine I end up picking, but I can guarantee I will be giving your company some business.
ctenos45069, thank you for the kind words my friend. I'm truly humbled! I'm looking forward to you getting your machine and seeing what you create!
I like your videos so much because you don't assume your viewers have seen all your previous videos. You just explain everything you are doing. I think we all need a reminder of some of the tips and tricks. Thanks for all the work you put into this.
c.j.crawford676, Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad you appreciate the detailed explanations in my videos. I always try to make my content accessible to all viewers, regardless of their experience level.
Your videos are great. I like that you leave no mystery steps like many others often do. You have helped me finally get going on my cncest 6090 that I bought 2 years ago. I made the mistake of not seeing that support was non existent before I bought it and up until now its been a $2k paper weight. I still battle it daily but thanks to you I am making progress with it and the Mach3 software I have to run. I thought about changing to GRBL but that maybe a even bigger headache lol. Ok I will stop rambling now thanks again for all the help and motivation.
VoodooDon, Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad my videos have been helpful in getting you started with your CNC machine. Keep persevering with Mach3 - it can be a powerful software once you get the hang of it. Happy woodworking!
Garrett, this is one of (if not the) best step-by-step videos I've watched on your channel! Very instructional, and the approach of taking the process from design considerations, through tool path, and then through project implementation, is the most thorough you can produce, in my humble opinion.
I've been working through a variety of surfacing instruction videos and tutorials, but none of them were anywhere near as complete and informative as this one!
As I responded to your recent survey, this particular video responds exactly to what I suggested! Keep them coming just like this whenever possible!
By the way, this video filled-in procedural things I've missed along the way, which included designing an enlarged box over the material layout to keep the bit from plunging on the first pass for surfacing purposes, how to set the xy coordinates properly, and how to take advantage of those (in gSender), as well setting the z with the probe.
Great video and thank you for making available for us!
Gary, right on brother! Glad to hear you liked this one. Im also very appreciative of your survey information! I will keep working hard to make videos that will help you.
Garrett, I keep rewatching your videos and always appreciate the information and professionalism that you have used during the making.
ralphtate, I am so happy to hear these videos help you brother. Keep working hard and learning everything you can.
I just have to say, i bought your one inch four flute surfacing bit and it is the best bit i own now. It is amazing. Thank you.
Brian, im happy to hear that! Happy CNCing my friend.
As I’m waiting for my CNC to be shipped/delivered I have started watching as many videos as I can find to help me understand what I need to do to get a project from my mind into the computer and then coming out of the bit into the wood. Thanks for putting this video together. You answered a number of my questions on how to create my projects as well as a number of do’s and don’ts.
vtellez01, you're absolutely doing the right thing brother. I always recommend watching videos and learning as much of your software as you can before you machine makes it to your door. That way you'll be able to hit the ground running when it arrives! I'm looking forward to you getting your machine in hand and seeing what you create!
This a great video for beginner CNC users. It explains everything very simply and thoroughly.
William, I am glad to hear this one helped you so much!
Here is your big fat Thank You,lol been going down a rabbit hole on watching your videos to learn as much as i can before i buy my LongMill in 2024. Great teaching,very well explained
Kenhaley, you are so welcome my friend.
Thank you Garrett, we have learned so much from your videos. You are a very gifted teacher.
Kate, you are so welcome. Keep working hard!
I am glad I am watching this video before the surfacing bit that I ordered from you arrives. Thanks for the in depth explanation!
Smokeebeefpv, you are so welcome my friend.
As always Garrett, thanks for the very informative video. Your expertise and explanation in all matters with CNC and VCarve are always helpful. Thank You!
Ron, thanks again brother! I'm glad this one was helpful for you. Keep up the great work over there my friend!
LongMill should include this video with all new machines sold. Great video.
Ozguzzi, glad you liked this one my friend!
Very helpful! Thank you for making this tutorial on planing in VCarve. This will be my first approach.
suzanneselby7386, I'm glad you found the tutorial helpful! Planing in VCarve can really elevate your woodworking projects. Good luck with your first approach!
I use the 1.5 inch surfacing bit today. LOVE IT! ALL THE BITS I HAVE PURCHASED FROM IDC WOODCRAFT WORK GREAT! Thanks for teaching us also. Thanks Garrett.
Roger, right on brother! Keep working hard my friend.
Great video. I am a beginner in the CNC world. I like the way you explain everything I have learned so much from your videos. I bought the starter set of bits and have the 1 nch 4 flute bit and love it. Thanks so much for the time and effort you put into these videos.
Robert, you are so welcome my friend! Keep working hard and learning everything you can.
very helpful video Garrett. Love the step by step you do. Saving me tons of head scratching. Thank you
Marcel, I am so happy this one helped you brother!
Amazing video, THIS IS A HUGE HELP TO ME. Also, the rant on using a mouse was hilarious.. I can't wait until next wednesday evening for you guys to go live! Thanks Garrett!!
izobot5344, Thank you so much for your kind words and support! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Looking forward to the live session next Wednesday too!
Garrett, the best and useful information as always. Thanks
Bruce, right on brother! Glad it helped.
thank you Garrett for you videos, they are great.. keep them coming.
MrBwest3976, you are so welcome my friend.
Very informative video, as usual. Thanks for taking the time to thoroughly explain everything.
Ron, it is my pleasure brother! Happy to hear that this video helped you.
Your videos are fantastic (and causing my bank account to drain - As I am switching my bits to the IDC versions that you cover in your videos :) ). With the information you pass along in your videos I feel like I am finally transitioning from just "point-and-clicking hobbyist" into someone who not only knows what they are doing but why they are making the choices they make. Thanks
Michael, right on brother! Glad to hear you are on the right track.
Michael, right on brother! Glad to hear you are on the right track.
Great job on teaching this
Only thing is I was taught that you never want to bottom your bit out because as you tighten up your collar the bit needs to be able to move if it’s bottomed out it might not actually be tight and could loosen up while you’re carving
rickdefalco1676, very true my friend. That is a very good suggestion.
Thanks, Garrett, and great job on the video. I have been out of CNC for a while now, but I am jumping back in as I have some spare time.
Phippsclanva, you are so welcome my friend.
Thank you Garrett this is very helpful. I’ve been looking for videos just like this.
Jessie, my pleasure! I'm glad it was helpful brother!
great job. people getting an expert level experience and class on how to do this. as always, great job.
Layne, thank you brother!
Big Fat THANK YOU :) LOL Your videos are always so helpful and informative.
You are so welcome brother!
Garrett, thanks for another great video. These videos are nice to refer to as projects are ongoing.
healerjjful, you are so welcome my friend.
Thank you. This is a great video. Helpful! One of the most professional tech videos I've watched.
Tim, you're so welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Great tutorial !! Answered many questions I had perfectly. Thank you.
user-lr6zq9zl8n, you are so welcome my friend.
Waiting for my desktop to arrive, I've been watching your videos. Learning so much from them, can't imagine trying to figure this all out on my own through trial and errors....
Tom, I get what you mean my friend! Learning the software on your own can feel like a daunting task, I'm glad you found your way to the channel brother! I'm looking forward to seeing what you create!
Sir: Started last year. Your Teaching was always great, your production videos & website are off the hook.
Doug, Wow, thank you brother! I'm happy to help!
Great video Garett. Thankfully at work we just run the wood thru a planer to avoid this stuff. Keep up the good work
Neon, that is a great tool to have too!!
Thanks for this video. I've been gluing up old pallet wood into slabs and was wanting to surface the wood before carving and I didn't have a planer so I was at a loss. Now I can get busy recycling scrap into cool things.
Tannius, right on brother! Glad to hear this one helped you.
Thanks for that. Confidence is high.
johnholman3978, you are so welcome my friend.
I learn something every time I watch your video's.
Andy, I'm glad they've been helping you along your journey brother!
love that bit. really does a good job
sfg18b, right on brother I'm glad it's been treating you well so far!
Garrett- Thank you for a great training!
RonSnyder, you are so welcome my friend.
Hi Garrett
As a best practice you should not bottom out the bit up in the collet
it won't tighten properly the bit needs to be pulled down just a millimeter or so.
When you tighten the collet, it wants to pull up just slightly and you don't want those two forces fighting each other or the bit won't tighten properly. You want to have that little bit of room for the bit to move up when you tighten the collet for it to get the best grip on the bit.
Marc, I see your perspective brother. Thanks for sharing!
thank you. always very informative and well presented.
PeterCole, you are so welcome brother!
A big fat thank you!
Paul, you're so welcome brother!
It was a helpful video! Leave it up.
Thanks brother, I appreciate your insight!
Great instructions quick and easy Thank you
BarneyCarParts, you are so welcome my friend.
Thank you, I needed that,,KS🙂👍
Kenneth, you are so welcome brother!
very good overview. great tips!
Charlie. thanks so much!
Nice video Garrett, with some great tips. When I started out I only had my CNC, so did what you show in the video, but with a 1/4 shank bowl bit from a cheap router bit set. Worked fine, just need to get the crossover correct
Saying that, if you're doing a lot of natural wood professionally, it would be worth investing in some other conventional woodworking equipment such as a planer thicknesser/jointer. Saves a lot of machine time. No need for anything too expensive if your main output is CNC work, but saves a lot of machine time.
Keep it up mate.
Robots, good call on using a bowl bit. That would work great too. I completely agree, if you are doing a lot of this, a planer is a complete time saver.
Just used the 1.5" surface tool from IDC Woodcraft as is described in this video - WOW - VERY nice.
BobBozeman, That's great to hear! The 1.5" surface tool can really make a difference in your woodworking projects. Enjoy using it!
I learn a lot from this video
I'm glad it was helpful my friend!
very good lesson
MikeV, glad to hear it brother!
Thanks - New Learning
everettshafer2413, you're so welcome my friend! Happy cncing!
Good tips, I like to call myself lazy. In that not lazy in never doing the work lazy in finding a path with less effort and possibly less time.
If you have a thickness planer and your work fits in your thickness planer. It saves a lot of time and effort. The flaw with a thickness planer is you cannot make a flat workpiece due to its short clamping area that typically follows the curve, well you can't without a slight bit of help. To make a flat piece you need to make a simple sled out of say 3/4" MDF (1" works better on long parts) which is very flat. Place your work on the sled and use a hot glue gun or low profile clamp to firmly attach the not flat work (without the clamping force deforming the work, it needs to lay naturally) onto the sled and run it through the thickness planer to get 1 very flat side. Then simply pop it off the sled and that is the table side of the workpiece. The sled will guarantee 1 side touching the planer table is perfectly flat for the length of the work. There are many videos on planer sleds. The router will peel off any leftover glue. This is a trick used often to turn a thickness planer into the functionality of a jointer. You don't even really need to clean the glue off the sled as your always using glue for the next piece.
The same concept applies if its a large workpiece using the router. Hot glue it to a large enough piece of MDF (or the spoilboard) then clamp the MDF to the router to surface the work. The hot glue will "fill-in" the curvature of the work to hold it in position while you make 1 side flat. This method takes a bit more time as you have to make a surfacing program and shave off the glue from the spoilboard if you used the spoilboard. Note that you need enough glue to hold the work and a few small dots won't do it. You will get use to the amount needed. The hot glue acts as both standoffs and clamping force to hold the work in its natural form to the table.
3dtwerking324, right on brother. I couldn't agree with you more on saving yourself some time. Thanks for sharing your insights, I'm sure it will help out some of our CNC brothers and sisters!
How do you separate the glued work piece from the sled after planing?
@@tampabaysunshine The only trick with this method is the right amount of glue to serve 3 tasks. Hold the work from twisting (standoffs), hold the work from getting free and removal of work with ease. Too much glue works excellent but is more work to separate, too little and you still have a work piece that is twisted.
If you have the right amount of glue a strong heavy duty blade OLFA knife works really well to cut free the work. A fairly sharp chisel will work well also. Cut some free and pry the rest. I use the heavy duty knives and just a quick pass down each side with the blade extended a bit under the work. Sort of like the CA glue/painters tape hold down for cnc just gently with force pry to remove.
Glue left on the sled acts to help use less glue on the next piece, glue left on the work will machine off. I've seen people use the planer to remove the glue running the work normally through the planer but I'm not sure thats always a good idea. As the cutters get hot the glue may stick to the cutters/shaft. I don't know if that may or may not effect future maintenance or performance of the planer. You can always do a very light skim pass on the CNC to re-surface or re-level the MDF to remove excess glue now and then. I found the heavy duty knife way keeps the sled clean and ready for the next work piece where the chisel leaves a few chunks that may need to be removed.
I seen a video that was interesting a week ago where a guy used playing cards as shims with less hot glue. I suppose one could use scraps or wood or splinters for the same result.
Each thickness planer seems to be a little different with things like downforce. A bit of trial and error will work through the amount of glue. I also always if the wood is crowned place the crown down as you can't get glue easily under a raised crown and the down pressure may try to force flaten which means you still have a crown when done. Depends on the width of the piece.
@@3dtwerking324 thanks for the detailed response! very helpful!
Thank you for yet another great teaching video! Ironically last night I had just ordered the 1.5" surfacing bit along with the "Hog" and the ultra fine detail 2 bit bundle/set to add to my arsonal since my amazing wife bought me as an anniversary present a 6040 cnc to upgrade from my diy 3018 cnc as well as an Excaliber 21" scroll saw! I aint sure how I am going to match that gift, but I am sure it will involve a lot of fine cnc 3D artwork! Lol. Now to decide whether to learn Mach 3 software or convert my machine controller on my new machine to Arduino so I can keep using G Sender .
Tim, right on brother! Congrats on your new machine. It sounds like you are well set to get to making any project you can think of now! I am excited to see what you create.
Great information given that my even safe people from getting seriously injured , Well explained also |
LouisDeschamps, so glad to hear this one helped you brother.
Great video! Thanks Garrett!! This has worked wonders for boards that get twisted a little after glue up, that no longer fit through my planer.
I’ve not used the tape and glue method. I have used carpet tape and have found if the board is too warped it doesn’t grab the waste board. Have you ever had this issue with the superglue method? When that happens I just double up on the carpet tape until it grabs firmly. The carpet tape is not particularly cheap
Marcus, right on brother! Glad to hear this one helped you. Warping is still an issue with this method. I sometimes do multiple layers to make up for any issues in the gap.
p.s. All of your videos are very helpful. I hope someday to get a Longmill CDC from you along with with all pertinent bits and etcetera's as I can see so many potentials. Till then though I can still study and save. Thanks Garret for all your hard work and the dreams you've helped inspire. p.p.s. I HAVE AND USE THREE MOUSES (off to a good start)
Thomas, you're doing all the right things for now brother. Best thing is do is to learn as much as you can about the software side of things that way you can hit the ground running when you get your machine in hand!
Like the basic and the why. I needed to learn workflow.
CountryRoadsCraftsNC, take a look at this video brother. It should help you. Here is a link: ruclips.net/video/KkFRHmu7HzE/видео.htmlsi=Y_E5azNKu9kbor8Y
SUBSCRIBED!!!
rescobar8572, Thank you so much for subscribing! I appreciate your support.
Hot glue makes a pretty convenient shim. My gun is usually hot by the time I get everything taped up (worst case, go load the program and set the tool up, too), then just squirt a dap under the high corners. Cools off in a few seconds, supports the stock AND adds a little holding power, doesn't go anywhere, peels off clean.
Thanks for the videos.
Tony, that's a great idea brother! I never thought of that one before, thanks for the tip!
@@IDCWoodcraft I mean, the wife misses her gluegun sometimes, but otherwise... 😂
Garrett, very good step-by-step for surfacing, will help me surface much better and faster. what I need is a step by step instructions on how to import an object or image from Google to the clip art library, then move it to the work surface.
Williamdoll367, I have a video that should really help you. Here is the link:ruclips.net/video/Zafn3m0IkiY/видео.html
This did not really help. so you took an object out of clipart and started to dissect it. well, how did it get into clip by magic? no of course not. I need a clip art course for dummies. how to get it into clipart and use it for a project. how to get it into the project and form a tool path.
I work remotely and don’t always have a desk, I opted for a finger mouse. The finger mouse is a ball track type. A mouse of any type is a game changer.
Bulletproofpepper2, I completely agree brother! Mouses are game changers!
Another well crafted video Garrett. EXTREMELY informative and easy to follow.
I definitely needed this video a few weeks ago when a board I was working on got totally screwed up and I wanted to salvage it.
Since I didn't know what to do, I wound up using the
G sender surfacing program, but this would have been a lot better!!! Big time.
Now would this lesson apply to resurfacing your spoil board also, or is that a totally different thing?
Thanks.
Joe, glad to hear that this one gave you a few good lessons learned. You could definitely use this same method to surface a spoilboard.
Great video. Next wave automation cnc control software has what the call virtual zero built in there control software. It uses multiple Z points to map the surface of your work piece. This keeps the same Z depth across the surface of your project in the invent that you have a warped board.
Karen, that is a very cool piece of software! I want to try it out myself.
Just what I needed to learn about surfacing. Thank you! I just finished my first surfacing test run and it worked great. I do have a question regarding the dust boot: What should I do to control the wood chips flying all over? The dust boot doesn't fit using the IDC 1 1/2" surfacing bit. System is a Longmill MK2.
waynehyatt5565, I'm glad to hear your surfacing test run went well! To control the wood chips, you may need to look into adjusting the positioning of your dust boot or consider using a different sized surfacing bit that fits better with your setup. Experimenting with different setups can help find the best solution for controlling the wood chips on your Longmill MK2 system.
I like it- Thank You. One question if I am doing an inlay that has multiple inlays (different colors of wood) I could use this method to surface smooth without removing the project?
Hrdplay, you sure can brother! Just set the final depth to be the finished height of your project and you are set to go my friend.
Garrett, Thanks for the great video. The question I have is surfacing when you have a project that requires tiling. Any suggestions.
I used the tape and glue method for the 1st time and it worked well. For all those cncers if you don't have a mouse, like Garrett says get one..
Ralph, I dont have a video on tiling but I will in the future! Sorry I cant help you right now brother.
Great video! Maybe I do it wrong, but on the second cut I just go off the material and go to Z 0. I know that is cut depth above above the surface. I jog my Z down the amount I want to take with the next cut and set that as 0 and run the program. I have surfaced several projects like this with perfect results.
WaterN2WineCreations, that is a great process too brother!
Great Video; can I use zero in the center of the material as opposed to the lower left?
daneilers739, Yes, you can absolutely use the zero point in the center of the material instead of the lower left corner. Just make sure to adjust your CNC machine settings accordingly. Happy woodworking!
What would be tge settings for hardwood? Ty I did my first surfacing cause of watching your video. Made it so easy to learn!! Came out perfect.
Ald, "I do have the IDC woodcraft app that has all the feeds and speeds for every IDC Woodcraft bit right on your phone. It also has different settings for hardwoods! Give it a shot
IDC Woodcraft CNC Router Bit App Links
Apple → apple.co/3IKj9Td
Android → bit.ly/3kmFCfN"
I have a caribe router. Which isn't an option to put in.
Very helpful! Shame I’m not in the same country.
Glendaneaton9646, bummer! I'm glad it was helpful for you though my friend!
Good morning Garrett, could you tell me what power the stepper motors of the equipment you use have? Desde Salta-Argentina
Inkman80, no problem! I use the Makita hand router to run on the Longmill brother!
Garrett, great video's! I'm not watching this live so I am not sure if you will even see these comments. For the second pass you used the probe and reset "Z" zero. I totally understand that process. Is is possible to just offset Z using the software and run again. example: The programmed tool path removed .050 but I only want to skim .010. Can I apply and offset to either the z-axis or possible add a line in the g-code? I'm running a I2R-8 with a UCCNC control.
Hey brother, this one is a little tricky to answer over comment my friend. I recommend joining Kate and I for our weekly youtube live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it tonight!
Hey Garrett, I'm following the video, I was just wondering if you could show a video in which when a project needs a tool change and how that works, do you need to re-center the bit or continue the program?
martyjosephson4937, Hey there! When a project requires a tool change, you'll need to manually pause the CNC machine and change the tool. You'll then need to re-zero the new bit to make sure it's properly aligned before continuing the program. It's a good idea to practice the tool change process a few times beforehand to get the hang of it. Great idea on the video. I will look into that and add it to the video list brother! Happy woodworking!
Fantastic information sir! What about end grain surfacing. How would that be different.
great question brother! You will do an identical process to this for endgrain as well!
Another awesome video, thank you. Do you ship your bits to Australia? I would be interested in getting a few once I get my CNC up and running.
Reece, glad you liked this video brother! As for shipping to Australia, not right now my friend. I'm sorry brother I've been having so many issues with shipping/losing packages shipping over seas, I've had to take a step back and only ship within the US. I'm looking into better ways to ship to you and our other CNC brothers and sisters in other countries in the future. I'm sorry for the inconvenience my friend!
@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you for your reply and that is totally understandable. If you do happen to find a suitable international shipping method then definitely let us all know. Thank you again for your content, I am learning heaps and it is very much building my confidence.
After survicing the two sides shouldI remeasure my board and enter that meassurement as the meassure dimensions of my board before doing the project ?
Louis, I would definitely recommend it for more accuracy with your projects brother.
following your advice on settings I got the following: The following tools produced empty toolpaths. They may not be able to fit anywhere.......What have I done wrong as I'm using a 22mm diameter surface bit? Happy Xmas.
trumpetflowerll, this one is a little tricky to answer via comments my friend. I recommend joining our live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help guide you through it there!
I was always taught to never put the shank in all the way til it stops and tightened but rather to the stop then back out a smidge so it holds better. Because the collet is pulling the tool inward as you tighten and it’s against the stop, it may not tighten completely.
JimmyGarner, good point brother. That could be very true.
Thank you for the reply. I find your video lessons helpful even though I have been a toolmaker(carbide cutting tools) for the aircraft and aerospace industry primarily working for the same company for 38 years.
Would this tape/glue method work on an mdf material spoil board? Or is it too porous?
Collin, absolutely brother it works like a charm!
hello Garrett back again i have artisan 4x8 cnc table with spindle have every thing working as should be . Except spindle mach will run all way thru project will not cut
PerryShaw-ey8zo, I'm sorry to hear your machine is giving you troubles brother. Unfortunately, I am not much help here. I am not a tech guy when it comes to CNC machines. I may be good with the programing and operation but when it comes to troubleshooting, I'm an absolute deer in the headlights. I recommend reaching out to your machine manufacturer regarding your issue. They will be able to help you the best my friend!
BIG FAT THANK YOU for the video.
AndrewHorezga, You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video. Keep creating!
I surfaced several pieces but always have steps in the finish. The steps are flat so tramming doesn't seem to be the issue. Any thoughts.
Thanks Ralph
Ralph, double check you tramming brother. It might still be off by just a little bit!
In one of your videos, you saved a file, which appeared as an Aspire file. Does that happen automatically in Ventric, or do I have to buy Aspire for that to happen? Gsender is free, and I have that, but files that I save in Ventric don't upload into Gsender. What am I missing? Thanks.
trumpetflowerll, this one is a little tricky to walk you through via comments my friend. I recommend joining our RUclips live sessions Kate and I host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to help walk you through it then!
Garrett, you've been great help, but need assist. I mimicked your process but when I create the tool path I end up with a margin at the top and bottom that does not cut. I selected the outer vector but does not pocket to the full extent of the box. It cut's off the to the left and right but doesn't go to the full up and down extents of the box. I'm on Vcarve Pro V10.5. any Ideas?
Dehatem, try making the box bigger brother!
@@IDCWoodcraft Will do, I followed all the steps and dimensions you did in the video and didn't get the same results. trying to figure why in pocket it didn't go to the full extents of the vector box like yours did. I noticed that on your path that the final path overlapped more to meet the perimeter. mine seems to measure from the center of the box and if not enough room for the bit it just wouldn't make that final path.
Garrett , what about using G-Sender surfacing option.
jonkeisler1250, I haven't tried out this function yet but you can certainly give it a shot! As they say, there's many ways to skin a cat!
Should have also mentioned, never have your bit pushed all the way in, when it gets hot it will expand, and push the bit downward. Push until it bottoms out, then pull out ever so slightly. Not much just 1mm will do, but will prevent the bit expanding downwards.
Another tip, the little bottle brushes are great for cleaning out Collets, The very small ones for cleaning baby bottles/teats are ideal.
Robots, very true brother! All great points.
Bits should never be inserted "all the way". There is a line on the bit that the bottom of the collet should meet. Well - on the bits I use, anyway.
Got the Carbide create bit database download and tried to import to CC free version. (Version 6) and it did not work??? Is there a different download for the older versions?
Terry, I'm sorry my friend but the database is only compatible with the latest version of Carbide create.
Garrett, When I ran the code on my CNC it left every other row just a little bit higher. Not sure what I did wrong or what is happening.
Kevin, you'll want to tram your machine and make sure everything is level brother. Here's a link to a video where I walk you through tramming →ruclips.net/video/8T_ZasfpDsM/видео.html. I think you'll find it super helpful!
Garrett, would it be better or worse to use g sender surfacing feature?
No. Gsender does not account for going left of the project zero without zeroing then moving the machine left x distance and rezero
@@IDCWoodcraft would it be possible to add 4” more on the x axis and .5” on the y, I’m just a newbie trying
That's my mouse its amazing !
William, it's awesome!
You mention using this bit with Carbide Create, but CC can't (yet) do pockets with the "raster" zigzag path you show. It does pockets by beginning with a plunge cut in the center of the pocket. This will cause a Bad Day® with your bit. Carbide Create Pro can do ramping when it starts a cut, which might work with your bit.
KarlBunker, very good points my friend. Keeping your bits in proper working order with different software versions is critical.
If you are surfacing your spoilboard it is not possible to have the bit off to the side unless you make your spoilboard smaller than the bed. I have a 3018 and usually carve material the full size of the bed. Do you have any tips for this scenario?
you can use the ramping feature in the pocket toolpath. Just use a big enough ramp distance (like 3-4 times the diameter of the bit so about 5 inches should be enough for a 1.5 inch surfacing bit) to allow the bit to cut away enough material so the center of the bit won't ever touch the material.
Shawn, another person commented that you could use a ramp but in most machines, you have a little bit of space where you can go off the sides of the machine and have it not run into itself! If you are having trouble with the ramp or using the sides of your machine, it would be best to reduce the size of your spoilboard!
Once you've completed a surfacing cut and realize that another cut is needed, you don't have to use your probe to set your Z height again. All you need to do is change your Z coordinate by the depth of your first cut. For example, in this video, after taking the first cut at .050" deep, all you need to do is click on your Z coordinate and add .050" to it. Then simply run the same program again. If your Z retracts to a height of 1.000" after the cut, change that to 1.050". That's it! You've compensated for the first cut and are now ready for the next cut. BTW, thanks for all you do here!
Hi Bob. You are absolutely right! I had to pick either that method or the probe method. Considering I was talking to a beginner, it was easier just to probe. What do you think? Was that the right choice?
@@IDCWoodcraft Of course, you're right. It's better that a beginner understand the process before getting into shortcuts.
@CNC Routers, Beginners & Beyond - Garrett Fromme Yeah, theres no way a beginner would've been able to do all of that. This probe method is the way to go. Take it from a newbie here, that other method would do nothing but add to the confusion lol. Basics first, then after you get some experience under your belt, THEN try the shortcuts.
Bob's method sounds pretty good and easy. I'll try that further on up the road, but basics first. 😃👍
I don't change the value either. I just move my bit off the workpiece so it cannot hit it, use the console to go to z-0.05 and re-zero there. Move it back up and hit start.
I just bought a CNC router machine and haven't used it yet. I was hoping I wouldn't have to use the probe after each pass. Will your surfacing bit go through 6061t6 aluminum?
Great video thank you. I will try out an order on the 1.5" surface bit depending on Import Tax to UK. It would be helpful if anyone can throw a light on the kind of taxes that are employed Id be grateful.
gordongroves, sorry about import taxes brother! That is all out of my control. Your best bet is to reach out to your local government to determine what taxes apply to you upon import.
I freehand route more than I CNC. I was taught to bottom out my bit in the collet then back off a little. as bottoming out a bit in the collet wears the collet out faster. Not sure how true that is just something I learned.
pickandgrinnin, I recommend a similiar method but I recommend using the chucking guide I've created here instead: link.idcwoodcraft.com/d24x7u
very nice!
@@IDCWoodcraft
You can also mark your x and y axes with a couple pieces of tape after fixing the first side, then you can line it up after flipping and not have to reset your xy=0,0.
Tony, also a great idea my friend! Thanks brother!
Would it not been advisable to set up x and y to a position that would have the bit come down off the board? You set it so that one half of the bit came down on board.
davecable3104, Great observation! Setting up the x and y position to have the bit come down off the board would definitely help prevent any unwanted contact with the material. It's always good to double check your positioning before you start cutting.
@@IDCWoodcraft The more I think about it though it may then not run off completely at the other end. I guess as long as the cutting edges extend more than the .05 past the flat area there’s not a problem.
How should this process differ if I’m surfacing an end grain cutting board? Thanks!
MRebeckah, it won't differ much my friend! You shouldn't need to make any crazy adjustments or anything. End grain cuts extremely well!
@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you! I was thinking about chip out and cut direction as the bit exits out the side but maybe that’s not an issue with surfacing bits. I’m still learning!! 🙂
what if you serfce cut after you use upcut bit so you clean after it
ahmedibrahem3712, you absolutely could brother!