This was fantastic I was able to do the job from beginning to end minus the airbox LOL I was mad confused but everything else is good thank God thank you so much the car is in good shape now after about 5 to 10 minutes of being on and resetting the check engine light a couple of times I think it's supposed to be programmed but the computer figured everything out after about 5 to 10 minutes thank God
Did you need any additional special tools to do it with the intake still on? I have to do mine and remember seeing a video where someone did what you did.
@@TheFrenchPug trying to remember. I think it used hex (male) socket in some fasteners and maybe Torx on others. Standard stuff when working on European cars. I don't remember needing anything new. Mine is a 2011. So diagnosing was easy because it had a high pressure sensor I could get live data from with my Ancel reader. Could see the pressure dive when driving and accelerating.
@Richard Young Oh, good. I have standard tools and hex female and male sockets. Thanks. My car won't idle well on cold starts until after 3 starts. My Carly Code reader is calling out my HPFP (150k miles on it). But I have to replace my turbos first. One finally self destructed. I'm putting in Vargas turbos but have been waiting 3 months for backorder. Can I also ask if you remember where you bought your hpfp from? Thanks so much. Steve
Do you recommend turning on accessory & pressurizing the fuel lines before putting the intake manifold back on, just to check for leaks real quick? possibly disconnecting coils and doing a small crank to work the hpfp to check that top line?
Nah, just make sure it's tight without rounding off the nuts. Once you do your first start/run, turn the car off and check/smell for leaks if you're not sure if you tightened enough. Hope that makes sense. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Because You have to re adapt .. not to mention you might have to clean the injectors points. And you will need a solenoid service on the transmission.. both lagging in the motor and possible transmission servicing will cause both transmission and engine to act funny lagging will cause improper shifting.
hey hello friend, I have problems when I push the pedal the end code 2aaf appears and I already bought a new fuel sensor and installed it and the problem continues, moving slowly everything normal only at high speed it jerks abruptly, can u help me, any idea 💡 please
Bro, what symtoms? Is the fan full speed when your cel is on, also a little knock on the engine? Mine its happend after upgraded the mosfet my hpfp 1 yr old
Are you taking any vehicle in for service ? 2008 335i , would like to ask for your help with High Pressure Fuel Pump & Turbochargers replacement Service, please ? How much will be for your time, please ? Thank you
My bmw won’t start it turns over and turns over ,lpfp is brand new checked coils and plugs, no fuel in the rail at all after turning over and cranking could you help me ?
Mines is wierd I get no fuel pump codes but it's like when I shift gears and go into 3000 rpm's it starts like shaking/ stuttering but if I mash the gas it'll accelerate fine it's like it only does that when I drive casual
DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO REASSEMBLE FINE COMPONENTS ONTO AN ALUMINUM ENGINE. Half of these bolts are ridiculously low torque values. INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS ARE 11ft lb or 15 nM. Throttle body 70 inch lb or 8 nM. Pulleys on serp belt 38-40nm. Coolant flange 9-10lb ft or 12.2-13.5nM. Replace the plastic chargepipe asap. Change your spark plugs if you havent yet. Check your valve cover for cracks and gasket for leaks. Do your OFHG at 90000km, potentially sooner.
Also did you seriously not prime the engine before firing. Put the key inside, DO NOT put foot on brake pedal like when you start it, but hit the start button once to turn on second to prime, then third time to shut off. Repeat this procedure 3-5 times and this turns on the hpfp mulitple times with engine off to prime and pressurize the rail.
It started up after the second crank, and would drive in a limp mode. It could pick up speed but very slowly, and definitely no boost. But the electric fuel pump is still able to send some fuel through it, and that's how I drove the car home after purchasing it! Thanks for watching :)
Been Trynna figure out my 4x4 abs tc and brake light my speedometer isn’t working either all 4 speed sensors read 0 on live data and not getting wheel speed sensor anyone else had this issue ? Maybe dsc module ?
If the car didn’t have so much drive by wire. The fuel pressure monitoring and electric valve adjuster in the hpfp I would rather it have a regulator and they stick the stupid valve in the regulator and just let it run high always. The fact the hpfp can drop makes it sketchy in the first place
Now you have a high pressure that can fail like your low pressure in the tank. But alot of cars have this anyways. I’d say it sucks all around the ecu won’t trim a port rail. It work all off the original system only.
How many big youtubers give such a detailed tutorials? Not many. This is such a great channel and Chris definitely deserves more subs.
I appreciate that, Zack! And thanks for watching :)
How fixing cars goes: fix one thing and discover a couple more things 😂
*fixes fuel pump, transmission starts acting up*
just like going to see a doctor. Checking for strained ankle and find out you have high cholesterol and high blood pressure.
High and low side catch cans sort out carbon build up from coming back once they are cleaned! Hopefully you can service the transmission!
Thank you for making a clear, concise and detailed video. Really needed this.
This was fantastic I was able to do the job from beginning to end minus the airbox LOL I was mad confused but everything else is good thank God thank you so much the car is in good shape now after about 5 to 10 minutes of being on and resetting the check engine light a couple of times I think it's supposed to be programmed but the computer figured everything out after about 5 to 10 minutes thank God
Glad it helped! Now you can go into BOOST! :)
I did mine by just removing the throttle body. I did not want to remove the full intake. A little tight, but not bad.
before changing it what codes did you get?
Did you need any additional special tools to do it with the intake still on? I have to do mine and remember seeing a video where someone did what you did.
@@TheFrenchPug trying to remember. I think it used hex (male) socket in some fasteners and maybe Torx on others. Standard stuff when working on European cars. I don't remember needing anything new.
Mine is a 2011. So diagnosing was easy because it had a high pressure sensor I could get live data from with my Ancel reader. Could see the pressure dive when driving and accelerating.
@Richard Young Oh, good. I have standard tools and hex female and male sockets. Thanks. My car won't idle well on cold starts until after 3 starts. My Carly Code reader is calling out my HPFP (150k miles on it). But I have to replace my turbos first. One finally self destructed. I'm putting in Vargas turbos but have been waiting 3 months for backorder. Can I also ask if you remember where you bought your hpfp from? Thanks so much. Steve
You say it a way I can actually understand, great video
Awesome! Thank you!
Do you recommend turning on accessory & pressurizing the fuel lines before putting the intake manifold back on, just to check for leaks real quick?
possibly disconnecting coils and doing a small crank to work the hpfp to check that top line?
Nah, just make sure it's tight without rounding off the nuts. Once you do your first start/run, turn the car off and check/smell for leaks if you're not sure if you tightened enough. Hope that makes sense. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Is the Fuel Pump holding up well?
Because You have to re adapt .. not to mention you might have to clean the injectors points. And you will need a solenoid service on the transmission.. both lagging in the motor and possible transmission servicing will cause both transmission and engine to act funny lagging will cause improper shifting.
Thanks for sharing!
hey hello friend, I have problems when I push the pedal the end code 2aaf appears and I already bought a new fuel sensor and installed it and the problem continues, moving slowly everything normal only at high speed it jerks abruptly, can u help me, any idea 💡 please
did you install the copper fittings in the pump?
Bro, what symtoms? Is the fan full speed when your cel is on, also a little knock on the engine? Mine its happend after upgraded the mosfet my hpfp 1 yr old
It seems like a pickle to work on. I can only hope the aftermarket has a simpler solution.
Top tier tutorial 👌✔️✔️✔️✔️
When installing a new hpfp do you need to code the new one or just install and go ?
No coding needed!
What actually goes wrong with the pump? Seals inside? Bearings?
A seal inside fails overtime, it's really not reparable. just need to get a new one
I love these videos.
I very much so appreciate those kinds words.
Is there any way to test these once removed?
Thanks, Go ahead
Hello, what is the hose that comes with the gasoline from the front, to test if the gasoline arrives?
What were the stains on the fuel rail under each injector?
Are you taking any vehicle in for service ?
2008 335i , would like to ask for your help with High Pressure Fuel Pump & Turbochargers replacement Service, please ?
How much will be for your time, please ?
Thank you
Can the two pieces of the hpfp that you pulled out of the block be transferred from one pump to another?
No, pretty sure they're not supposed to separate from the body of the pump, which is why it wasn't working the first place. Hope that helps!
I didn’t even take the intake off it’s a waste of time and chance for something to break
Oh bud nice work but you couldn't get a vac shop so you can clean all that dirt and debrie? Before you install the pump and the intake manifold...
The hpfp is driven by the vacuume pump, that is driven by a chain
My bmw won’t start it turns over and turns over ,lpfp is brand new checked coils and plugs, no fuel in the rail at all after turning over and cranking could you help me ?
It’s a 2008 bmw 335i
Fixed the problem ?
Mines is wierd I get no fuel pump codes but it's like when I shift gears and go into 3000 rpm's it starts like shaking/ stuttering but if I mash the gas it'll accelerate fine it's like it only does that when I drive casual
Vacuumed leak by boot or leak intercooler. 🤔
Nice vídeo I like thanks
Was it driving in limp mode???
Yes it was running in a limp mode
@@TheBimmerBarn like a limp mode that doesn’t show up on the dash huh ?
DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO REASSEMBLE FINE COMPONENTS ONTO AN ALUMINUM ENGINE. Half of these bolts are ridiculously low torque values. INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS ARE 11ft lb or 15 nM. Throttle body 70 inch lb or 8 nM. Pulleys on serp belt 38-40nm. Coolant flange 9-10lb ft or 12.2-13.5nM. Replace the plastic chargepipe asap. Change your spark plugs if you havent yet. Check your valve cover for cracks and gasket for leaks. Do your OFHG at 90000km, potentially sooner.
Also did you seriously not prime the engine before firing. Put the key inside, DO NOT put foot on brake pedal like when you start it, but hit the start button once to turn on second to prime, then third time to shut off. Repeat this procedure 3-5 times and this turns on the hpfp mulitple times with engine off to prime and pressurize the rail.
Yo what tool did you use to get the back bolt
11mm
Umm.... how does a n54 with a hpfp issue drive? Does it sputter?
It started up after the second crank, and would drive in a limp mode. It could pick up speed but very slowly, and definitely no boost. But the electric fuel pump is still able to send some fuel through it, and that's how I drove the car home after purchasing it! Thanks for watching :)
What drill is that ?
I use all Milwaukee power tools! Very reliable, powerful, well-built! The one in this video is their "Impact Driver" with a 1/4 adapter
Wasn’t no need to remove intake manifold bubba just throttle body to replace hpfp🙂
Yoo you live down the street from me 😮
Never good when you remove a part and pieces fall out
Seriously, that thing must have been rattling around in there for a while!
Rather common, metal ones are the way to go!
Been Trynna figure out my 4x4 abs tc and brake light my speedometer isn’t working either all 4 speed sensors read 0 on live data and not getting wheel speed sensor anyone else had this issue ? Maybe dsc module ?
You will start throwing coils of you have a valve cover leak. The coils will disconnect and back off the spark plugs
If the car didn’t have so much drive by wire. The fuel pressure monitoring and electric valve adjuster in the hpfp I would rather it have a regulator and they stick the stupid valve in the regulator and just let it run high always. The fact the hpfp can drop makes it sketchy in the first place
Now you have a high pressure that can fail like your low pressure in the tank. But alot of cars have this anyways. I’d say it sucks all around the ecu won’t trim a port rail. It work all off the original system only.
Look at all that plastic!
No symptoms talked about at all or codes …
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