Exactly what I am looking into doing. Great job! I think I may just hire a company to do it for me, rather than by all the extra equipment to move things around. Thanks for taking the time to document the process!
i have spent a LOT of time researching four post car lifts. i am buying one this summer but of all the ones i've looked at, there is only ONE design that i would trust and that is the "Backyard Buddy" - "Advantage" style lift where the four vertical posts go "inside" a solid square "collar" on the end of the two lift runners/ramps. this design eliminates any chance of "wobble" side to side, front to back which could disengage the safety locks. on the square collar design, there is a large 1" solid "bar" that slides into the open cut-outs on the vertical posts. once this bar is inserted on all four posts, it is impossible for the lifting runner/ramp to fall. an additional safety feature on the BYB/Advantage lifts is a "check valve" on the hydraulic lines that will instantly stop the fluid from escaping if a line or connection fails. on lifts without these check valves, if a hose or connection fails, the lift can crash to the floor unless the safety locks stop the fall. the design like the above guy purchased IS the same on all the "less expensive" lifts. the issue i have with the above design is that rocking the lift side to side or back and forth can dislodge the locking bars if the vertical post sways too much. however, the above designed lifts "can" be made more safe if the vertical lifting posts are bolted to the floor so they cannot sway. if a person was going to buy the above design lift, i would absolutely recommend bolting the lift posts to the floor. the Backyard Buddy/Advantage design of the lift posts having the posts fit "inside" a solid metal square "collar" at the end of the lift ramps is a "fail-safe" design. the Backyard Buddy/Advantage lifts are at least $5000 (or more) for just a 6000 lb. lift. However, if i'm going to get under a 4000 lb. vehicle to do work, i want to feel as safe as possible.
I love the gray Chevelle. I have a 69 Charger with the same wheels and tires. That's how a muscle car should look. best of luck with your shop build. I'll be watching.
You're winning sir! Houses with 3-car garages cost a grip here in MD. I NEED a 3-car garage, as my 2-car garage is about maxed out! That lift did its job of freeing up the other stall space.. Those added cost's rack up real quick!
Matt i took and put a piece of foam pipe insulation on that top strut on the door on my buddies lift just for safety in case it did hit the vehicle by the way nice job
Hey Matt, that was an excellent video. I've had carlifts before myself, but got rid of them when I sold the Home I am in Austin Texas and thinking about installing one
Thank you so much for this video, very helpful to me. I have a pole barn that stores three at the moment but have 6 classics and need as much room as possible. Doubling the capacity is a no brainer like this.
I know you posted this a year ago, but still a great video. I’m going through exactly the same thing, but in a different order. A couple of years ago, I similarly raised my garage door rails and went to a side-mount opener. I found that I needed to overwind my existing spring, which finally gave way just recently, so I upgraded to a thicker and longer spring. As you know, winding those springs is no picnic. I’m finally ready to buy the lift, but need to work out the logistics, since I have neither a trailer nor a forklift. My ceiling is 10”4”, so this video was super helpful on multiple fronts. Thanks.
I’m buying a lift soon also. For me, the height on the top lock is important. I want to be able to walk underneath without ducking when storing the lift up. Lifting height is not the same as clearence underneath height. Cheers.
Your set up is exactly what I was planning. My issue is the head room, I need 8 more inches. Needing to park a Corvette above our Tesla Model Y and no matter how we measure it out by shifting the lift to the very back off the garage it doesn't work. Your set up looks great! Thanks for the tip on the garage rails also.
U said the pulleys were assembled wrong. Is possible it was correct if the pump motor & runway was located on the other side? Most lifts allow the motor to be mounted on the opposite side. Thanks for posting video.
I bought and installed the Triumph Classic 8000 (shorter) lift about a year ago. I can't remember if I had to reroute the cable. I vaguely think I did. Your instructions looked better than mine. A full view of the posts laid out for orientation on a half a sheet of paper does not give good details! lol. But overall, pretty happy. I think I'm getting an AMGO 407-P next as it is narrower.. Good for my smaller cars. Thanks for the video!
@todd5082 When you consider the 407-P is 11" wider than the Triumph classic, it IS wide(r). Since my car collection consists of TVRs, Lotus and an MGA, the wider lifts just take up extra space! Now, having said that, I JUST completed my 407-P last week. Very different to my other two lifts. I vsee benefits and detractions. The Triumph and many use the posts to directly slide and "safety lock" into and the posts are a heavier guage. The 407-P uses a substantial "strap" hanging down the center of the post. Therefore there is some "dangling", but once resting on the safeties, it helps a bit. If your car is smaller than say... 3200 lbs, I see no issue. I am not sure if the smaller 407-P feels a little less stable due to the smaller footprint or different construction. Really only noticeable as I have 3 lifts, all different footprints. One ADVANTAGE to the strap style lift is you can use magnets, etc and hang or run wire along the outside as the moving parts are inside the posts and near the inside corners, but the Triumph lift works the same, but utilizes the post to lock onto. Lastly the Triumph classic is shorter than standard and slightly narrower. The advantage is up to you decide based on your target vehicles. If your space is limited, a lift closer to your vehicle size means you may be able to walk around a post versus having to squeeze between a vehicle and a post...I'm currently doing both. But having 3 different ones, I think the Triumph classic is the one I like the most.
Nice job! I don’t have a lift but would have the space. I’m out in the county and garage doors are wider than in the city and longer as well. Roughly 10’ ceilings. 9’ wide doors by 8’ high door opening. Garage length is 21’. Garage width at the door opening walls is 31’ 3.5”. At the front of the garage, the house wall side angles wider by 6’. So garage width at the backyard end is 37’ 3.5”.
I purchased both of my lifts used. A 9k Rotary two post lift for 1800, and the four post lift that I can put wheels under and move it out to the parking lot if I want to pressure wash underneath a car. I think I paid 2K for that. Both really good quality, both lightly used in a home hobby garage. I would take used quality over new Chinese any day
I just bought the same lift this Tuesday, $3100 out the door, got from the same Ft worth N.A.W. You got yours from, only Im 125 miles west. Wish I still lived in Tarrant county area. Nice cars, are you member of Mad Dog Car Club? Go to any car shows, there’s one practically every weekend in the Tarrant county area.
Thanks for this video. Im planning on getting a lift next spring. Also nice 68 chevelle, i have a 69 myself. The additional information about the garage door insulation and lifting the assembly was very helpful also. One question, since it has been a whike now are there any concerns with the quality? Still working correctly?
Hi, Matt, thanks for the great video. That really encourages me to start up lift my garage and have post lifts inside. My door is similar to yours and you mentioned that you didn’t buy uplift kit and just cut the current rails to extend it. Did you get any additional brackets to support it , other than replacing with longer cable? Few detailed steps will be much appreciated. Thx
Thanks! I picked up some angled perforated metal from Home depot to extend the brackets and some small carriage bolts to put the track patch in there. I didn't really want to make it a how-to as you can really hurt yourself with the winding bars if your not careful.
@@MattOverDrivethanks for the information. I will be careful and do more homework before start. I bought the 10ft cable and the winding bars. The idea is to loose the current cable first and then move the entire setup (spring, drums, bar) up like 18”. Then cut the rails to extend the track like you did. Then install the cable and adjust the spring little more since it will have to lift the door higher now. Does it sound right to you? Thx
I am also looking for a good body shop for my 68 Chevelle. Let me know if you have any recommendations in Austin or even Fort Worth getting a little desperate finding a good reliable shop.
Can someone help me please? 1) Can you suggest any proven methods of installing such a lift in a garage that has a slope of at least 4-5 inches? 2) Also, would the lift shift if I don’t bolt it to the ground? (I would rather not anchor it as my concrete slab is only 4 inches thick.)
You can add leveling plates to help level it out. The lift will have a couple of inches it can adjust and then you might need an 1" or 2" leveling plate. Google "four post lift on a sloped floor" to get some ideas.
Didn't you have another lift that you bought used? Is it still there? I didn't see it. Also, NOW you're going to build a shop after stuffing 2 lifts into your garage? What?
I moved to Texas from Western Washington and the old lift stayed there, it was actually part of the offer as the new guy really wanted it. Saved me the hassle of moving it 2,000 miles. So I needed a new one...
HI, I am in a car parking lift company in china. If you want to know more about High cost performance Chinese car lifts,we could have a further conversation.Thank you!
Exactly what I am looking into doing. Great job! I think I may just hire a company to do it for me, rather than by all the extra equipment to move things around. Thanks for taking the time to document the process!
Your welcome!
i have spent a LOT of time researching four post car lifts. i am buying one this summer but of all the ones i've looked at, there is only ONE design that i would trust and that is the "Backyard Buddy" - "Advantage" style lift where the four vertical posts go "inside" a solid square "collar" on the end of the two lift runners/ramps. this design eliminates any chance of "wobble" side to side, front to back which could disengage the safety locks. on the square collar design, there is a large 1" solid "bar" that slides into the open cut-outs on the vertical posts. once this bar is inserted on all four posts, it is impossible for the lifting runner/ramp to fall. an additional safety feature on the BYB/Advantage lifts is a "check valve" on the hydraulic lines that will instantly stop the fluid from escaping if a line or connection fails. on lifts without these check valves, if a hose or connection fails, the lift can crash to the floor unless the safety locks stop the fall. the design like the above guy purchased IS the same on all the "less expensive" lifts. the issue i have with the above design is that rocking the lift side to side or back and forth can dislodge the locking bars if the vertical post sways too much. however, the above designed lifts "can" be made more safe if the vertical lifting posts are bolted to the floor so they cannot sway. if a person was going to buy the above design lift, i would absolutely recommend bolting the lift posts to the floor. the Backyard Buddy/Advantage design of the lift posts having the posts fit "inside" a solid metal square "collar" at the end of the lift ramps is a "fail-safe" design. the Backyard Buddy/Advantage lifts are at least $5000 (or more) for just a 6000 lb. lift. However, if i'm going to get under a 4000 lb. vehicle to do work, i want to feel as safe as possible.
I love the gray Chevelle. I have a 69 Charger with the same wheels and tires. That's how a muscle car should look. best of luck with your shop build. I'll be watching.
Great video. Thanks for posting. Was 30 amp power required and did you need to modify your 110v outlet?
You're winning sir! Houses with 3-car garages cost a grip here in MD. I NEED a 3-car garage, as my 2-car garage is about maxed out! That lift did its job of freeing up the other stall space.. Those added cost's rack up real quick!
Some great lessons here for someone like me looking to get a lift. Thanks for sharing your experience
I’ve been pondering this for a very long time. Thanks for this informational post!
You could even use the lift to store a trailer with the dolly wheel placed into the jacking tray!😆
Nice lift. Nice car. Love them wheels so much.
Great move to the Free and Sane lands.
Cool lift. I thinking about installing one too.
Matt i took and put a piece of foam pipe insulation on that top strut on the door on my buddies lift just for safety in case it did hit the vehicle by the way nice job
Hey Matt, that was an excellent video. I've had carlifts before myself, but got rid of them when I sold the Home I am in Austin Texas and thinking about installing one
Thanks for walking us through the process
Thank you so much for this video, very helpful to me. I have a pole barn that stores three at the moment but have 6 classics and need as much room as possible. Doubling the capacity is a no brainer like this.
Did you look at the Wildfire Lifts? Thanks for the details and the real world set up.
They were not out when I bought this lift. They pretty much look like the same thing
I know you posted this a year ago, but still a great video. I’m going through exactly the same thing, but in a different order. A couple of years ago, I similarly raised my garage door rails and went to a side-mount opener. I found that I needed to overwind my existing spring, which finally gave way just recently, so I upgraded to a thicker and longer spring. As you know, winding those springs is no picnic. I’m finally ready to buy the lift, but need to work out the logistics, since I have neither a trailer nor a forklift. My ceiling is 10”4”, so this video was super helpful on multiple fronts. Thanks.
I’m buying a lift soon also. For me, the height on the top lock is important. I want to be able to walk underneath without ducking when storing the lift up. Lifting height is not the same as clearence underneath height. Cheers.
Your set up is exactly what I was planning. My issue is the head room, I need 8 more inches. Needing to park a Corvette above our Tesla Model Y and no matter how we measure it out by shifting the lift to the very back off the garage it doesn't work. Your set up looks great! Thanks for the tip on the garage rails also.
Same problem with my Wife's Outback. Just needed a taller ceiling.
Thanks! Good to know it's something I can put together myself!
Great video! Dream set up for my Challenger and future corvette :)
Look great. Well done dude!
U said the pulleys were assembled wrong. Is possible it was correct if the pump motor & runway was located on the other side? Most lifts allow the motor to be mounted on the opposite side. Thanks for posting video.
I bought and installed the Triumph Classic 8000 (shorter) lift about a year ago. I can't remember if I had to reroute the cable. I vaguely think I did. Your instructions looked better than mine. A full view of the posts laid out for orientation on a half a sheet of paper does not give good details! lol. But overall, pretty happy. I think I'm getting an AMGO 407-P next as it is narrower.. Good for my smaller cars.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks! Yes, I heard that the directions were terrible but these were not that bad so they must have upgraded them.
Why a narrower lift for smaller cars? The Classic Triumph isn’t that wide. I’m in the market as I type. Thanks.
@todd5082 When you consider the 407-P is 11" wider than the Triumph classic, it IS wide(r). Since my car collection consists of TVRs, Lotus and an MGA, the wider lifts just take up extra space!
Now, having said that, I JUST completed my 407-P last week. Very different to my other two lifts. I vsee benefits and detractions. The Triumph and many use the posts to directly slide and "safety lock" into and the posts are a heavier guage. The 407-P uses a substantial "strap" hanging down the center of the post. Therefore there is some "dangling", but once resting on the safeties, it helps a bit. If your car is smaller than say... 3200 lbs, I see no issue. I am not sure if the smaller 407-P feels a little less stable due to the smaller footprint or different construction. Really only noticeable as I have 3 lifts, all different footprints. One ADVANTAGE to the strap style lift is you can use magnets, etc and hang or run wire along the outside as the moving parts are inside the posts and near the inside corners, but the Triumph lift works the same, but utilizes the post to lock onto.
Lastly the Triumph classic is shorter than standard and slightly narrower. The advantage is up to you decide based on your target vehicles. If your space is limited, a lift closer to your vehicle size means you may be able to walk around a post versus having to squeeze between a vehicle and a post...I'm currently doing both.
But having 3 different ones, I think the Triumph classic is the one I like the most.
Nice job!
I don’t have a lift but would have the space. I’m out in the county and garage doors are wider than in the city and longer as well.
Roughly 10’ ceilings.
9’ wide doors by 8’ high door opening.
Garage length is 21’.
Garage width at the door opening walls is 31’ 3.5”.
At the front of the garage, the house wall side angles wider by 6’.
So garage width at the backyard end is 37’ 3.5”.
looking for a car lift that matches your car and garage?
I purchased both of my lifts used. A 9k Rotary two post lift for 1800, and the four post lift that I can put wheels under and move it out to the parking lot if I want to pressure wash underneath a car. I think I paid 2K for that. Both really good quality, both lightly used in a home hobby garage. I would take used quality over new Chinese any day
It's all Chinese
@@AymanSuleiman
Truth.
Looks great! The lift doesn't need to be bolted into the cement?
Good job! Thanks fir showing all that is involved. I'm a dyier and I now can deside if I'm willing to go through the effort or open up my wallet ;)
The hardest part was getting it home, after that it was just time. Good luck with getting yours going!
I just bought the same lift this Tuesday, $3100 out the door, got from the same Ft worth N.A.W. You got yours from, only Im 125 miles west. Wish I still lived in Tarrant county area. Nice cars, are you member of Mad Dog Car Club? Go to any car shows, there’s one practically every weekend in the Tarrant county area.
Great video! Do you not haft to screw the mounts down into the floor???
Great video!!
Thanks for this video. Im planning on getting a lift next spring. Also nice 68 chevelle, i have a 69 myself. The additional information about the garage door insulation and lifting the assembly was very helpful also.
One question, since it has been a whike now are there any concerns with the quality? Still working correctly?
Nice job. What was your last lift you said that you owned prior? Just window shopping for a lift
Hi, Matt, thanks for the great video. That really encourages me to start up lift my garage and have post lifts inside. My door is similar to yours and you mentioned that you didn’t buy uplift kit and just cut the current rails to extend it. Did you get any additional brackets to support it , other than replacing with longer cable? Few detailed steps will be much appreciated. Thx
Thanks! I picked up some angled perforated metal from Home depot to extend the brackets and some small carriage bolts to put the track patch in there. I didn't really want to make it a how-to as you can really hurt yourself with the winding bars if your not careful.
@@MattOverDrivethanks for the information. I will be careful and do more homework before start. I bought the 10ft cable and the winding bars. The idea is to loose the current cable first and then move the entire setup (spring, drums, bar) up like 18”. Then cut the rails to extend the track like you did. Then install the cable and adjust the spring little more since it will have to lift the door higher now. Does it sound right to you? Thx
I am also looking for a good body shop for my 68 Chevelle. Let me know if you have any recommendations in Austin or even Fort Worth getting a little desperate finding a good reliable shop.
how tall are those two cars in the vid? I am trying to figure out if this lift will work. My top car will be 49" tall and the btm one will be 56"
Do you have to mount it down?
The problem with these new homes even with three car garages, is they give you enough room for the cars, and barely anything else.
Seems light only 1000lbs might be a little scetchy.
So if you pack the mussel cars in like sardines how many can you get in that garage?
Probably 6 lol
Looking good Matt, it's looks a "bit" hot in TX :- )
"I'm building a shop"........let's hear about that :- )
Hoping to break ground next week! I'll do a video on that...
Great job god bless
You don't have to mount it to the ground?
It's an option on a four post
Can someone help me please? 1) Can you suggest any proven methods of installing such a lift in a garage that has a slope of at least 4-5 inches? 2) Also, would the lift shift if I don’t bolt it to the ground? (I would rather not anchor it as my concrete slab is only 4 inches thick.)
You can add leveling plates to help level it out. The lift will have a couple of inches it can adjust and then you might need an 1" or 2" leveling plate. Google "four post lift on a sloped floor" to get some ideas.
You don't bolt that to the floor?
Its an option on a four post
I want one but i called a company to raise my garage door and they want 22 hundred dollars for new tracks new side motor a labor 😢
Didn't you have another lift that you bought used? Is it still there? I didn't see it. Also, NOW you're going to build a shop after stuffing 2 lifts into your garage? What?
I moved to Texas from Western Washington and the old lift stayed there, it was actually part of the offer as the new guy really wanted it. Saved me the hassle of moving it 2,000 miles. So I needed a new one...
Yup. I just checked some of your past videos and figured it out. You still got more ambition than I do. Looks good.@@MattOverDrive
what happened to the used lift you installed 5 months ago.
It stayed with the old house. The new owner negotiated it as part of the sale so I needed a new one
You should go down and show them the install directions are wrong. So they can print an addendum to installation.
I have a 72 vette.... looks like i need another street car to have an excuse for buying one of those!
I see you aren’t too far from me. Would you be willing to help me install same lift in our garage?
Great video. How long is your lift?
He has 6inches.....NO DIDDY!!! PAHAHAHA!!
My Pick-Up Is 10,000 Pounds So That Would Not Work For Me.
Whoop-dee-frigin'-doo.... it's not your RUclips video, either. 🙄
Heard nothing good about Chinese car lifts.
Ok
HI, I am in a car parking lift company in china. If you want to know more about High cost performance Chinese car lifts,we could have a further conversation.Thank you!