I like the air tool sound effects, I do the same thing but I make the noises myself, kind of like when you're a kid and you make the motor sounds when you push a matchbox car around the floor. 😆
Thank you sooo much for the rare knowledge of fine tuning of vacuum advance w/ an allen wrench screw adjustment. You saved my ‘60 Thunderbird! over three & half years trying find out the problem.
I was just taking a look at vacuum advance on my 64 Thunderbird. your videos very helpful. Back in the day I used to know all this manual stuff but it's been 40 years since I've actually tinkered with a non-electronic engine thank you so much
Yup, they are very common to leak vacuum out of the diaphragm. So not only do you not get your timing advancement but you also get a fairly large vacuum leak which amplifies issues on acceleration.
My vacuum advanced the internal adjustment failed, the diaphragm had no leaks. The advance would overtime would change, and the 351w would start to detonate. After this video I adjusted the advance and two weeks later It was back to where it was. I never would have thought of it without this video.
Good Morning! So glad you referenced proper vac hose to ported vac source. On my new Holley 4160 750, It would plug into the "timed spark vac source" on the choke side of the primary metering block but I run a MSD pro billet mechanical advance which I installed a curve kit. All timing in by 2500 rpm. Question? would C-6 trans vac line be manifold? Mine originally was to that ported "timed vac source" which I have plugged. Thanks for the video! Please leave a link to buy that awesome electric screw driver you use. lol Cheers from Motown.
Good morning Robert! Thank you! So if you're running a C6 with a vacuum modulator, that has to be on manifold vacuum as far as I am aware. Glad you liked my "electric screwdriver"!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Even though the C-6 is forward manual valve body, I still use vacuum to the vac modulator, some guys dont but I believe it shifts better. It is on manifold vac currently. Have a great day friend! Be safe and blessings to you and yours.
You know, I would have to ask my trans guy what he thinks on something like that. I forgot that you're running the manual valve body. But hey if you feel like it shifts better then that has to account for something right?
Back in the day there was only one vacuum source (manifold vacuum). The way we set initial timing was to remove the vacuum advance line and plug it set the timing and hook it back to the manifold source. The vacuum advance at idle gave the engine good initial response and the crushing vacuum will be the same at a given speed with ported or manifold vacuum...all vacuum comes from the same manifold vacuum when cruising. PS. The car might run hotter at idle with the ported vacuum.
My vacuum hose coming from that advance is up against an A/C compressor mounting bracket. It is pinched. I want to put a right angle(90) fitting there. Do you know the size of the hose? I'm new this hobby and don't know the size of it or how to properly measure it. Thanks. Keep up the great vids.
Well I'm afraid I wouldn't know either. Ford did a lot of different variations and I don't know what you have. You're best bet is to take that hose and fitting into a parts store and see if they can size up what you need.
I have a 1966 mustang with the 3.3 that has low vacuum to where I can’t even get the carb adjustment right. I have checked for leaks and I’m not finding any.
@@AlfsMustangGarage my 66 is having an issue when I idle. It’s idling like garbage. Slight popping on the passenger side, I’ve been checking for vacuum leaks. Next are the plugs
Ya I usually check all the things. Plugs, cap, rotor, engine vacuum, idle mixture screw on the carb, timing. All those things can contribute to poor idle.
My advance doesn’t moved neither. What does it effect. My car seems to run just fine. At least o my knowledge.. 😢 just recently got it. Also no hose connected to that or to the carb
You would use manifold vacuum for a power brake booster or a transmission shift modulator or a PCV valve. There are many other things but typically not used on a vacuum advance unit.
Great explanation, thank you, Alf! I just replaced my advance can, but the engine is still a bit unhappy. It's a 351 windsor, A/T, with the autolite 2100 2V, all stock except a pertronix ignition. It's got good power when taking off, ok power in 2nd gear, but at around 50 mph in 3rd it feels weak when accelerating, especially uphill, rpm goes up and it feels like torturing the engine. I wonder if that's rather a timing issue or carburetor/fuel related? Do you have any other idea where I could look? :)
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I‘m not sure if I can trust the scale on the balancer wheel. So I only adjusted the timing to the highest vacuum at idle so far. Maybe I should focus on the mechanical advance 🤔
I always have to remind myself that carburetors are quite forgiving when it comes to operating the engine. The timing will often be overlooked. I hope that helps.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I guess the timing is often overlooked as it's more confusing to adjust :D I have to wrap my head around how those things work. Thanks again, best regards from Europe!
So I replaced and gapped my points. But now the engine stumbles alot when the throttle is opened, even warmed up. The problem seems to not be able to be cured by turning the distributor. Vacumn advance?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Did so and they were gapped and snugged down right. But I noticed the contacts on the distributor cap were rusty/burnt. So I got a new cap
@@AlfsMustangGarage I disconnected the VA while the engine was running and it stopped misfiring. So I think I know what the problem is now. The VA must have failed. When I did the suck test nothing moved. Putting on a new cap ,rotor and wires didn't get rid of the misfire.
manifold vacuum is better! mechanical advance adds timing as you press down on the gas. vacuum advance adds timing under low lode poor cylinder fill do to part throttle operation. you need more timing at cruse and idle. the later years 1967+ had a vacuum swich that had 3 ports manifold, distributor, carburetor that would swatch between manifold and ported. ported make for a hotter engine that uses more gas good emissions. on manifold runs the engine runs 10-40 degrees cooler. it will idle better and you will need no choke as the idle speeds up as soon as it fires up. this is how modern engines control timing start with low timing and advance it at idle with minimal idle air. set the primary throttle open one screw turn from 100% closed warm engine with vacuum advance disconnected adjust timing for Peake vacuum then retard timing for 1/2-1 drop in vacuum if you can not get a defined peak adjust distributor for best running then adjust mixture screws for max vacuum then readjust timing for peak then dip 1/2-1 inch of vacuum or ware the idle speed is no to fast or slow. on stock v8 with 4 inch boor 20-21* degrees of timing is ware they run best most the time. check timing with timing light & write down the #. then set base timing to 6* then adjust adjust canister to bring in the amount of vacuum advance that gives you the timing you wrote down on MANIFOLD VACUUM. this is the best way. if you have a 5.0 or 5.8 efi with the spout connector in check timing at full temp it will be 20-21* at idle base timing is 10*. the computer is the equivalent of the vacuum advance.
I like the air tool sound effects, I do the same thing but I make the noises myself, kind of like when you're a kid and you make the motor sounds when you push a matchbox car around the floor. 😆
Ha ha that's awesome! Good thing men are built naturally with the sound effect abilities!
Look at those stacking skills!!
My stacking skills? What with all the cars in the shop?
@@AlfsMustangGarage yes!!
Oh ya. When you have a small shop 🤷
Super helpful tips. Didn’t know about the adjustment with the key. Will be checking that on mine. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Thank you!
I really enjoy watching your videos. They are so informative, explanatory, and educational. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
You're very welcome, thank you!
Thank you sooo much for the rare knowledge of fine tuning of vacuum advance w/ an allen wrench screw adjustment. You saved my
‘60 Thunderbird! over three & half years trying find out the problem.
Oh wow! Awesome, happy to hear that you got it figured out. These little things will get the best of us at times!
I was just taking a look at vacuum advance on my 64 Thunderbird. your videos very helpful. Back in the day I used to know all this manual stuff but it's been 40 years since I've actually tinkered with a non-electronic engine thank you so much
You're very welcome!
Great information. I think I will go test the vacuum advance on my 67. That part is still original. Thanks.
Yup, they are very common to leak vacuum out of the diaphragm. So not only do you not get your timing advancement but you also get a fairly large vacuum leak which amplifies issues on acceleration.
Exactly what I needed to see thank you
You're very welcome!
Great Video Alf
Thank you sir!
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
My vacuum advanced the internal adjustment failed, the diaphragm had no leaks. The advance would overtime would change, and the 351w would start to detonate. After this video I adjusted the advance and two weeks later It was back to where it was. I never would have thought of it without this video.
Very cool! It's nice to finally figure out these weird things isn't it? Glad I could help.
Alf you Rock!
I followed all your tips and new vacuum.
Runs like a champ now!
Thank You
That's awesome! Happy to hear that.
You should make a video on all the things you check for a standard tune up.
Funny you mentioned that. It's filmed and on my list. Just need to put it together.
Thanks for the video. My 289 engine diagnostic said bad vacuum this will help me replace my old vacuum unit. 😊
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you!
Nice!! 💪🏽.
Thank you sir!
👍
👍
What is the second hose on the vacuum advance going to? Neither of mine are connected to anything.
Another great video!
Thank you very much!
Excellent reply to my question. Thanks vince
Good Morning! So glad you referenced proper vac hose to ported vac source. On my new Holley 4160 750, It would plug into the "timed spark vac source" on the choke side of the primary metering block but I run a MSD pro billet mechanical advance which I installed a curve kit. All timing in by 2500 rpm. Question? would C-6 trans vac line be manifold? Mine originally was to that ported "timed vac source" which I have plugged. Thanks for the video! Please leave a link to buy that awesome electric screw driver you use. lol Cheers from Motown.
Good morning Robert! Thank you! So if you're running a C6 with a vacuum modulator, that has to be on manifold vacuum as far as I am aware. Glad you liked my "electric screwdriver"!
@@AlfsMustangGarage Even though the C-6 is forward manual valve body, I still use vacuum to the vac modulator, some guys dont but I believe it shifts better. It is on manifold vac currently. Have a great day friend! Be safe and blessings to you and yours.
You know, I would have to ask my trans guy what he thinks on something like that. I forgot that you're running the manual valve body. But hey if you feel like it shifts better then that has to account for something right?
Great video, thanks!!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the info!
You're welcome
Thank you sir
You're very welcome!
Gapping the points was fun. But replacing the dizzy with a DUI dizzy was super easy.
Ya they're not too bad to change.
I think my son was 10 or so when I taught him how to gap the points. Fun memories.
Very cool. The very first thing I was taught on a car was setting points gap. I was 15 and it was on a 66 mustang 289.
I could not keep my points in adjustment,,turns out the bushing in the plate was worn oblong,,fixed it all good
Oh wow, good thing you got it figured out 👍
So does turning out the vacuum canister reduce vacuum advance timing?
Back in the day there was only one vacuum source (manifold vacuum). The way we set initial timing was to remove the vacuum advance line and plug it set the timing and hook it back to the manifold source. The vacuum advance at idle gave the engine good initial response and the crushing vacuum will be the same at a given speed with ported or manifold vacuum...all vacuum comes from the same manifold vacuum when cruising.
PS. The car might run hotter at idle with the ported vacuum.
My vacuum hose coming from that advance is up against an A/C compressor mounting bracket. It is pinched. I want to put a right angle(90) fitting there. Do you know the size of the hose? I'm new this hobby and don't know the size of it or how to properly measure it. Thanks. Keep up the great vids.
Well I'm afraid I wouldn't know either. Ford did a lot of different variations and I don't know what you have. You're best bet is to take that hose and fitting into a parts store and see if they can size up what you need.
It's astonishing to discover how tiny of an E clip and amount of no air can determine the performance of a Mustang ( and make a legend out of it ) 😅
Yes indeed!
I have a 1966 mustang with the 3.3 that has low vacuum to where I can’t even get the carb adjustment right. I have checked for leaks and I’m not finding any.
Would this cause back firing through the exhaust the motor will run good the start to stumble start taping that canister it starts running good again
what are signs of a bad vacuum advance?
Reduced power on acceleration or stumble on acceleration.
@@AlfsMustangGarage my 66 is having an issue when I idle. It’s idling like garbage. Slight popping on the passenger side, I’ve been checking for vacuum leaks. Next are the plugs
Ya I usually check all the things. Plugs, cap, rotor, engine vacuum, idle mixture screw on the carb, timing. All those things can contribute to poor idle.
My advance doesn’t moved neither. What does it effect. My car seems to run just fine. At least o my knowledge.. 😢 just recently got it. Also no hose connected to that or to the carb
When do you use manifold vaccum
You would use manifold vacuum for a power brake booster or a transmission shift modulator or a PCV valve. There are many other things but typically not used on a vacuum advance unit.
Do you every work with Classic Inlines (Ford Six Performance)? I got my Ozzy head and a lot of inline parts through them.
I've never worked with them directly but I source a lot of my information from them. Very good resource.
I lost my e clip I think it went in the distributor how do I fish it out?
Great explanation, thank you, Alf! I just replaced my advance can, but the engine is still a bit unhappy. It's a 351 windsor, A/T, with the autolite 2100 2V, all stock except a pertronix ignition. It's got good power when taking off, ok power in 2nd gear, but at around 50 mph in 3rd it feels weak when accelerating, especially uphill, rpm goes up and it feels like torturing the engine. I wonder if that's rather a timing issue or carburetor/fuel related? Do you have any other idea where I could look? :)
I would be looking into timing. Do you know what your total timing is at?
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I‘m not sure if I can trust the scale on the balancer wheel. So I only adjusted the timing to the highest vacuum at idle so far. Maybe I should focus on the mechanical advance 🤔
I always have to remind myself that carburetors are quite forgiving when it comes to operating the engine. The timing will often be overlooked. I hope that helps.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I guess the timing is often overlooked as it's more confusing to adjust :D I have to wrap my head around how those things work.
Thanks again, best regards from Europe!
what size allen wrench for the adjustment do you use ?
Oh heck I have no idea. I just grab one till it fits lol
I was so careful removing the E clip, and it disappeared. Anyone know what size or where to get an E clip to match? Thanks.
Harbor Freight sells variety packs. So does autozone and other parts stores. Might be a good place to start there.
Thank you sir !
So I replaced and gapped my points. But now the engine stumbles alot when the throttle is opened, even warmed up. The problem seems to not be able to be cured by turning the distributor. Vacumn advance?
Well if it wasn't stumbling before the points change and now it is, I would be double checking those points.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Did so and they were gapped and snugged down right. But I noticed the contacts on the distributor cap were rusty/burnt. So I got a new cap
Oh ya that should help.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I disconnected the VA while the engine was running and it stopped misfiring. So I think I know what the problem is now. The VA must have failed. When I did the suck test nothing moved. Putting on a new cap ,rotor and wires didn't get rid of the misfire.
Oh ya those rubber diaphragms in there tend to leak so then you get no vacuum advance.
manifold vacuum is better! mechanical advance adds timing as you press down on the gas. vacuum advance adds timing under low lode poor cylinder fill do to part throttle operation. you need more timing at cruse and idle. the later years 1967+ had a vacuum swich that had 3 ports manifold, distributor, carburetor that would swatch between manifold and ported. ported make for a hotter engine that uses more gas good emissions. on manifold runs the engine runs 10-40 degrees cooler. it will idle better and you will need no choke as the idle speeds up as soon as it fires up. this is how modern engines control timing start with low timing and advance it at idle with minimal idle air. set the primary throttle open one screw turn from 100% closed warm engine with vacuum advance disconnected adjust timing for Peake vacuum then retard timing for 1/2-1 drop in vacuum if you can not get a defined peak adjust distributor for best running then adjust mixture screws for max vacuum then readjust timing for peak then dip 1/2-1 inch of vacuum or ware the idle speed is no to fast or slow. on stock v8 with 4 inch boor 20-21* degrees of timing is ware they run best most the time. check timing with timing light & write down the #. then set base timing to 6* then adjust adjust canister to bring in the amount of vacuum advance that gives you the timing you wrote down on MANIFOLD VACUUM. this is the best way. if you have a 5.0 or 5.8 efi with the spout connector in check timing at full temp it will be 20-21* at idle base timing is 10*. the computer is the equivalent of the vacuum advance.
Very cool. Thank you. 😎 😎 😎 😎 😎
You're welcome