My ldo v2.4 350 kit just showed up yesterday from 3dlabtech and I am so excited to start assembling it. Your coverage of this kit was a big inspiration. Thank you!
We haven't done a tuning guide yet, but we haven't ruled it out either. There's already a great guide here: github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide If we do a tuning video, it will likely be following that guide.
First of all thank you so much to create such videos, we are also making DIY 3d printers and same control board using. 6 motors and 1m *1m DIY heating bed double extruder using for our project. Can you suggest how much power supply it may required, And is it possible to give separately power supply for bed. I think it consumes lots of energy
AC Bed heaters are common in larger format printers, using an SSR to switch it from an unused pin on your mainboard. See the Voron 2.4 and Trident manuals for details on this kind of wiring. Trident also uses 6 motors, and they spec a 200W power supply, which should be plenty if using an AC bed heater
Why are there 2 USB hookups? I see the USB C port of the Octopus connected to a USB A port on the RPi and a USB A port of the Octopus going to the USB C port of the RPi.
Hey! Great question. When we built this printer it was common to power the pi off the octopus and let it handle the voltage step down instead of using an external 5V PSU for just the pi. So the USB-C input on the octopus is for signal, the other is for power to the pi!
@@MapleLeafMakers I suspected it had something to do with that but I wasn't sure. I thought about doing something similar when building my Trident but I decided not to risk it since I got a 5V power supply with my kit and the hookup to the Pi is a piece of cake. So thanks for confirming this for me. I'm planning on doing a self-sourced build in the future and this is really useful info.
How well did that adhesive hold up over time for the slot wire duct? It seems like a really good idea but I don't know if the high temps might cause the adhesive to loosen.
Hi mate! I think there is a slim possibility that you used wrong port for extruder motor on the control board. According to LDO wiring kit(which this is?) Extruder goes to the pin after the z motors. To my understanding this is because there are two ports that are connected for paralel z motors. I only got as far as wiring and very nearly did the same mistake.
Yes, good eye. we caught the mistake right away, but while putting the video together we realized we didn't have a clear shot of it corrected. We should have called this out clearly in the video. apologies for any confusion, we'll do better next time :)
@@MapleLeafMakers No worries. I only figured out a day or two after I did my wiring, and only noticed it by pure coincidence.... now I am slightly worried about what else I missed. Especially mixing it up with the new SB PCB. Other than that I like watching your vids ;)
In the case of the LDO kit, the way the breakout PCB works it's more convenient imo, that's why the LDO supplemental documentation call it out. You can do make it work either way though I'm sure!
My ldo v2.4 350 kit just showed up yesterday from 3dlabtech and I am so excited to start assembling it. Your coverage of this kit was a big inspiration. Thank you!
Good luck!
No licking things, ha, I caught that. My old boss used to do that all the time, LOL.
I’d be curious on your build if you posted a complete tuning guide. Most just do input shaper and resonance calibration
We haven't done a tuning guide yet, but we haven't ruled it out either. There's already a great guide here: github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide If we do a tuning video, it will likely be following that guide.
First of all thank you so much to create such videos, we are also making DIY 3d printers and same control board using.
6 motors and 1m *1m DIY heating bed double extruder using for our project. Can you suggest how much power supply it may required,
And is it possible to give separately power supply for bed.
I think it consumes lots of energy
AC Bed heaters are common in larger format printers, using an SSR to switch it from an unused pin on your mainboard. See the Voron 2.4 and Trident manuals for details on this kind of wiring. Trident also uses 6 motors, and they spec a 200W power supply, which should be plenty if using an AC bed heater
Why are there 2 USB hookups? I see the USB C port of the Octopus connected to a USB A port on the RPi and a USB A port of the Octopus going to the USB C port of the RPi.
Hey! Great question.
When we built this printer it was common to power the pi off the octopus and let it handle the voltage step down instead of using an external 5V PSU for just the pi. So the USB-C input on the octopus is for signal, the other is for power to the pi!
@@MapleLeafMakers I suspected it had something to do with that but I wasn't sure. I thought about doing something similar when building my Trident but I decided not to risk it since I got a 5V power supply with my kit and the hookup to the Pi is a piece of cake. So thanks for confirming this for me. I'm planning on doing a self-sourced build in the future and this is really useful info.
How well did that adhesive hold up over time for the slot wire duct?
It seems like a really good idea but I don't know if the high temps might cause the adhesive to loosen.
It's so hard to pull off we've actually broken the cableways trying to pull them years later. VHB is no joke.
@@MapleLeafMakers Perfect! I'll just make sure to double check before it stick it down. 😅
Hi mate! I think there is a slim possibility that you used wrong port for extruder motor on the control board. According to LDO wiring kit(which this is?) Extruder goes to the pin after the z motors. To my understanding this is because there are two ports that are connected for paralel z motors. I only got as far as wiring and very nearly did the same mistake.
Yes, good eye. we caught the mistake right away, but while putting the video together we realized we didn't have a clear shot of it corrected. We should have called this out clearly in the video. apologies for any confusion, we'll do better next time :)
@@MapleLeafMakers No worries. I only figured out a day or two after I did my wiring, and only noticed it by pure coincidence.... now I am slightly worried about what else I missed. Especially mixing it up with the new SB PCB.
Other than that I like watching your vids ;)
Nice video. What PCB did you use by your controller board?
This is the ldo toolhead PCB included with the kit we purchased. It has since been replaced with a 2 piece stealthburner PCB.
is there an advantage to install the DIN rails from front to back inside of side to side like in the original documentation?
In the case of the LDO kit, the way the breakout PCB works it's more convenient imo, that's why the LDO supplemental documentation call it out.
You can do make it work either way though I'm sure!
@@MapleLeafMakers Aah gotcha! Thanks for letting me know!
Is that lrs 200 a 8.8A ....!?
What are those components gray pink blue yellow/green next to psu?
These are called 'UK2.5N terminals' and are used to connect / distribute mains power.